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#1 Old 10-27-2011, 03:59 AM
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2004 Random Stall

-Split from original thread- LMSF

I'm like so HAPPY I'm not alone with this problem..! If you can guys maybe you can help me out with any causes and/or solutions to my problem. OK - first thing first I have a 2004 Santa Fe (4 cyl 2.7 L FWD) with only 42,000 miles on it. Coming home from work I was stopped at a stop sign and after stepping on the gas (halfway thru the intersection) my engine stalled - coasting to a stop (while crossing a very busy intersection I might add). After putting it in park I try to restart it - the engine cranks over as usual and starts but roughly 4 to 7 seconds afterwards it stalls again. I did this 4 or 5 times again with the same results. I'm almost positive the check engine light is on. The next day I popped the hood to see if the belt broke but its fine so I tried to start it again (same results engine starts but after 4 to 7 sec. stalls again). Before this engine trouble I haven't had one ounce of trouble from my Santa Fe. Not to be funny but yes there is a half a tank of gas in it...lol.. with plenty of fluids in it. After some research I kind of think its the Crank-shaft sensor (seems to be a problem with them in the Santa Fe's). Does anyone have the same issue and/or solution before I finally take it in to the dealership...? Thanks in advance...!

Last edited by lovemysantafe; 12-18-2011 at 03:30 PM.
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#2 Old 10-27-2011, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by pen2guin3 View Post
I'm like so HAPPY I'm not alone with this problem..! If you can guys maybe you can help me out with any causes and/or solutions to my problem. OK - first thing first I have a 2004 Santa Fe (4 cyl 2.7 L FWD) with only 42,000 miles on it. Coming home from work I was stopped at a stop sign and after stepping on the gas (halfway thru the intersection) my engine stalled - coasting to a stop (while crossing a very busy intersection I might add). After putting it in park I try to restart it - the engine cranks over as usual and starts but roughly 4 to 7 seconds afterwards it stalls again. I did this 4 or 5 times again with the same results. I'm almost positive the check engine light is on. The next day I popped the hood to see if the belt broke but its fine so I tried to start it again (same results engine starts but after 4 to 7 sec. stalls again). Before this engine trouble I haven't had one ounce of trouble from my Santa Fe. Not to be funny but yes there is a half a tank of gas in it...lol.. with plenty of fluids in it. After some research I kind of think its the Crank-shaft sensor (seems to be a problem with them in the Santa Fe's). Does anyone have the same issue and/or solution before I finally take it in to the dealership...? Thanks in advance...!
If you have a 2004 and haven't yet replaced your CPS, don't pass go, don't collect your $200, just replace your CPS. I had problems with mine for over five years(2003) before I spotted a thread that described my symptoms. You will be surprised at how frayed the wires are right outside the sensor. It cost around $70 and I did mine just last week. If you look on the SM site you will see a small write up I did recently on how to do it on your driveway.
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#3 Old 10-30-2011, 02:04 AM
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If you have a 2004 and haven't yet replaced your CPS, don't pass go, don't collect your $200, just replace your CPS. I had problems with mine for over five years(2003) before I spotted a thread that described my symptoms. You will be surprised at how frayed the wires are right outside the sensor. It cost around $70 and I did mine just last week. If you look on the SM site you will see a small write up I did recently on how to do it on your driveway.
Thanks so much Johnaauld for your input. If I understood your response correct - you changed the CPS yourself..? I mean is the CPS easy to take apart and slap on a new one...? How many different parts do you have to take off just to get to the CPS? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined when it comes to cars but by far no expert...lol... (I do change out my own brake pads). Any advice you can give me would be awesome. I mean if I have to take it to the dealership to get fixed then I will - but I seriously don't want to fork out the 4 to 5 hundred dollars if I can help it. Again thanks everyone for your input. One question - after looking at a Santa Fe mechanics manual for my 2004 is the CKS the same thing as the CPS...?

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#4 Old 10-30-2011, 02:50 AM
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John just tried looking for the SM site/section you mentioned but couldn't find it. Can you give me a direct link to the small article you wrote on changing your CPS... Thank you so much.......!
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#5 Old 10-30-2011, 09:39 AM
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John just tried looking for the SM site/section you mentioned but couldn't find it. Can you give me a direct link to the small article you wrote on changing your CPS... Thank you so much.......!
Sure, I'll copy it below. It isn't easy, but I'm no mechanic so it might have taken me longer through ignorance. Here is what I wrote:

"First thing is to remove the skid plate. If you are doing it on your back like I did last week, you need to remove the cover on the starter so you can see the Crankcase Position sensor. To remove the shield on the starter, remove the two screws and one nut. Pull the shield off the stud and then rotate it 90 degrees(can't remember which way) and then you will be able to slide it out towards the drivers side of the car(it won't come out any other way). You then need to get a quarter inch socket drive set and use the 10MM six sided socket(as thin walled as you can find). I think I had around 5 inches total with an extender on. Most likely it won't work with a 3/8's inch drive like I tried for an hour or so. The clearance from the single 10MM bold that holds the sensor in place is too close to allow a 3/8 socket. To find the sensor once you have the starter shield off, is to sight just behind the oil filter and look up and back toward the center of the block(just above the starter). If you have a flashlight(getting enough light on the cps is the key to getting it out) in just the right position you will just be able to see it. You can get to it with your hands and arms from about three directions and non of them work real well. Have fun at this point. I think it took me around four hours(some of that was looking for the spring clip that flew off at the connector end and the rest from finding out a 3/8 socket won't work). Oh yeah, you'll be leaving some skin on this job."

Me again. I just reread your original post and you're confusing me. You said you had a 4cyl 2.7. No such thing. If you have the four cyl, the cps is in a much more difficult spot to get at. If it's the 2.7 6 cyl, it's just like I wrote it up.

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#6 Old 10-30-2011, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by johnaauld View Post
Sure, I'll copy it below. It isn't easy, but I'm no mechanic so it might have taken me longer through ignorance. Here is what I wrote:

"First thing is to remove the skid plate. If you are doing it on your back like I did last week, you need to remove the cover on the starter so you can see the Crankcase Position sensor. To remove the shield on the starter, remove the two screws and one nut. Pull the shield off the stud and then rotate it 90 degrees(can't remember which way) and then you will be able to slide it out towards the drivers side of the car(it won't come out any other way). You then need to get a quarter inch socket drive set and use the 10MM six sided socket(as thin walled as you can find). I think I had around 5 inches total with an extender on. Most likely it won't work with a 3/8's inch drive like I tried for an hour or so. The clearance from the single 10MM bold that holds the sensor in place is too close to allow a 3/8 socket. To find the sensor once you have the starter shield off, is to sight just behind the oil filter and look up and back toward the center of the block(just above the starter). If you have a flashlight(getting enough light on the cps is the key to getting it out) in just the right position you will just be able to see it. You can get to it with your hands and arms from about three directions and non of them work real well. Have fun at this point. I think it took me around four hours(some of that was looking for the spring clip that flew off at the connector end and the rest from finding out a 3/8 socket won't work). Oh yeah, you'll be leaving some skin on this job."

Me again. I just reread your original post and you're confusing me. You said you had a 4cyl 2.7. No such thing. If you have the four cyl, the cps is in a much more difficult spot to get at. If it's the 2.7 6 cyl, it's just like I wrote it up.

Now that I read what I wrote I was wrong with the engine type ( I have a 4cyl with 2.4) I totally apologize for my mis-type. I guess that what happens when you spend 4 hours on the net researching this/my problem (reading countless articles and forum posts...lol...). Again sorry. Through searching the net - I've come to find out changing the Crankshaft sensor in the 4cly 2.4 is a HUGE, time consuming job (Great - my luck SUCKS and I'm almost certain this is going to cost me BIG-TIME). I've read some posts stating it would cost roughly $400.00 to $600.00 between parts and labor. John (or whoever reads this) - are these figures in the right ballpark..? Lately I've been thinking (even before this problem came up) on trading my 2004 Santa Fe for a new one...? It just burns me that my 2004 only has 42,000 miles on it and something this major happens..? Again guys thanks for all your responses (also thanks for letting me vent). Special thanks to johnaauld for your help and re-typing the procedure involved in changing this thing out..!

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#7 Old 10-31-2011, 09:36 AM
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Now that I read what I wrote I was wrong with the engine type ( I have a 4cyl with 2.4) I totally apologize for my mis-type. I guess that what happens when you spend 4 hours on the net researching this/my problem (reading countless articles and forum posts...lol...). Again sorry. Through searching the net - I've come to find out changing the Crankshaft sensor in the 4cly 2.4 is a HUGE, time consuming job (Great - my luck SUCKS and I'm almost certain this is going to cost me BIG-TIME). I've read some posts stating it would cost roughly $400.00 to $600.00 between parts and labor. John (or whoever reads this) - are these figures in the right ballpark..? Lately I've been thinking (even before this problem came up) on trading my 2004 Santa Fe for a new one...? It just burns me that my 2004 only has 42,000 miles on it and something this major happens..? Again guys thanks for all your responses (also thanks for letting me vent). Special thanks to johnaauld for your help and re-typing the procedure involved in changing this thing out..!
Your cost would be like changing a timing belt. If you haven't done that yet and plan to change the CPS, you might as well have them do the whole job while they are in there. 42k miles isn't much and if you are thinking of buying a new car, $6-700 isn't all that much in comparison.
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#8 Old 12-18-2011, 02:10 AM
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First - thanks guys for your help and suggestions regarding my 2004 Santa Fe problem. I finally have time to write the out-come of my problem. Well I finally took my 2004 Santa Fe in to get fixed. JOHNAAULD hit the nail on the head - it was a bad crank-shaft sensor. Thanks again JOHN..! From what I've read about the cost of this repair throughout the internet (which was between $400 - $600) I feel I got kind of lucky with my bill only being $345. Believe me - $345 is still a lot of money to me but its much-much-much better then $600. So in the end - if someone has a Santa Fe that stalls out while driving - bet BIG its probably the Crank-shaft sensor that needs replacing.... ********** NEW PROBLEM ********** John maybe you can help me again...lol...? Roughly 5 days after having the crank-shaft sensor fixed my oil light has now begun to flicker/stay on at idle (when the engine is warm and rpm's dip below 1000). Strange thing but it happens only when the car is at idle and when I step on the gas pedal the oil light goes off. It seems to happen when my car is warmed up (driving for roughly 20 minutes) compared to when the engine is cold. While parked I can reproduce the oil light coming on by pushing the gas pedal to 2000 rpm's then when the rpm's come down below 1000 rpm's the oil light comes on. Please any SUGGESTIONS would be very appreciated. Before I get yelled at - I did check my oil level and its at the correct level. Do you guys think it has anything to do with the replacement of my crank-shaft sensor (meaning maybe the garage I got my crankshaft sensor fixed at forgot to do something or did something wrong) Again - thanks in advance....

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#9 Old 12-18-2011, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by pen2guin3 View Post
First - thanks guys for your help and suggestions regarding my 2004 Santa Fe problem. I finally have time to write the out-come of my problem. Well I finally took my 2004 Santa Fe in to get fixed. JOHNAAULD hit the nail on the head - it was a bad crank-shaft sensor. Thanks again JOHN..! From what I've read about the cost of this repair throughout the internet (which was between $400 - $600) I feel I got kind of lucky with my bill only being $345. Believe me - $345 is still a lot of money to me but its much-much-much better then $600. So in the end - if someone has a Santa Fe that stalls out while driving - bet BIG its probably the Crank-shaft sensor that needs replacing.... ********** NEW PROBLEM ********** John maybe you can help me again...lol...? Roughly 5 days after having the crank-shaft sensor fixed my oil light has now begun to flicker/stay on at idle (when the engine is warm and rpm's dip below 1000). Strange thing but it happens only when the car is at idle and when I step on the gas pedal the oil light goes off. It seems to happen when my car is warmed up (driving for roughly 20 minutes) compared to when the engine is cold. While parked I can reproduce the oil light coming on by pushing the gas pedal to 2000 rpm's then when the rpm's come down below 1000 rpm's the oil light comes on. Please any SUGGESTIONS would be very appreciated. Before I get yelled at - I did check my oil level and its at the correct level. Do you guys think it has anything to do with the replacement of my crank-shaft sensor (meaning maybe the garage I got my crankshaft sensor fixed at forgot to do something or did something wrong) Again - thanks in advance....
pen2guin3
I know you've been using this thread for some time(and you've been helped) but it's fairer to post this on the SM site and start a new thread. I can't help you on your newest problem, but I'm sure someone will.
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#10 Old 12-18-2011, 10:21 AM
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Replacing the crank position sensor shouldn't have bothered anything.

I note that there is no problem when the oil is cold or at higher RPMs, both of which increase oil pressure. You need to have the pressure checked with a gauge to be certain, but there are several possible causes.

First, understand that as the engine warms to operating temperature that your oil is thinning a bit. That alone can lead to lower psi at the sensor. Any chance that you recently changed to a lower viscosity oil to begin with? Beyond that, you also note that the pressure seems to be dropping with lower engine RPM. Again, not unusual to see the pressure vary as the oil pump speeds up and slows down. Trouble is, you don't know what the actual pressure is in either of the above cases.

It could be a sign of a bad sensor, worn oil pump, incorrect oil viscosity, increased gap in bearings, or any number of things. It's a 2004, and while I am sure that somewhere you've told us the miles or km you have on the clock, I am not sure which page that would be.

I'd get the pressure checked and be sure of the condition of the oil that's in there first and work it from there.
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