Coolant Change - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
 
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#1 Old 10-12-2009, 10:51 AM
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The coolant change procedure from the owners manual sounds a bit esoteric:
...
3. ...Then, following the manufacturer's directions on the engine coolant container, add the appropriate quantity of [b]coolant to the radiator.
4. Turn the radiator cap counterclockwise without pressing down on it, until it stops. This relieves any pressure remaining in the cooling system. And remove the radiator cap by pushing down and turning counterclockwise. Now fill the [b]radiator with clean demineralized or distilled water. Continue to add clean demineralized or distilled water in small quantities until the fluid level stays up in the radiator neck.
5. Start the engine, top off the [b]radiator with water and then [b]add coolant to the reservoir until the level is between "L" and "F".

Is it really necessary to add water and coolant separately, rather than mix them in right proportion beforehand? (Not to mention that they require to add coolant to the radiator before removing radiator cap?)

Also, what coolant would you recommend? "One-of-a-kind-secret-mixture-or-else-you-lose-your-warranty" from a dealership or something else?
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#2 Old 10-12-2009, 12:33 PM
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you can of course mix your water and anti-freeze before you add the mixture to the radiator (do not use more than 45% anti-freeze)

all anti-freeze is standerd and will mix with any old solution except the 'red' anti-freeze. if your car has the red already in the system then you must use red to top it up and it will not mix with other types



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#3 Old 10-12-2009, 05:10 PM
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That's what I thought. Thanks!
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#4 Old 10-13-2009, 02:45 AM
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DSHornet
QUOTE (montego @ Oct 12 2009, 11:33 AM)
Quote:
you can of course mix your water and anti-freeze before you add the mixture to the radiator (do not use more than 45% anti-freeze)

All anti-freeze is standard and will mix with any old solution except the 'red' anti-freeze. if your car has the red already in the system then you must use red to top it up and it will not mix with other types
MMM, I dunno about the 45% limit unless he lives in a warm climate, like the South or the Southeast where it rarely drops below -10 degF. In Alabama I have seen the temp get below zero Fahrenheit only two or three times, so the 45% mix would be fine for us, but not if I traveled north with it in m car, where I might see -15 degF overnight. The 50/50 mix is recommended for being prepared for any travel around the CONUS.

If he lives in New Hampshire, especially upstate (like Mt Washington, which is REALLY upstate!), he might want to make it 50% or 55%. The extra freeze protection may be needed there. If I remember the ratio table, ethylene glycol in a 50/50 mix will freeze at -34 deg F. I'm not sure about 55/45, but its freezing point is probably around -38 to -40 degF. A 55% mix may make the engine run a little warm since ethylene glycol doesn't conduct heat like pure water, so that change in the ratio shouldn't make a lot of difference, but I wouldn't go over 60% antifreeze.

Changing oil to 5W-20 for winter use might be a good idea, though. Here in the "Sunny South" I run 5W-30 Mobil 1 year round and have no problems.

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#5 Old 10-19-2009, 08:39 AM
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Changed coolant yesterday. When I drained coolant, only approx half of the system capacity came out from the radiator plug - ~1 gallon instead of 7.4 qts. How do I drain the whole thing?
I did it twice (drained and filled, drove around, drained and filled again) to get at least 75% concentration of the fresh coolant. But I hope someone could educate me how to replace 100% in less time consuming manner.

There is another strange thing happens. When I drained the radiator for the first time, the recovery tank emptied as well. Second time, the recovery tank stayed filled. Anybody knows why is that and should I worry about it?

Thanks!
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#6 Old 10-20-2009, 12:02 AM
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As long as there is no air bubble in the system, and everything stays cool, I wouldn't worry about it.
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#7 Old 10-26-2009, 08:58 AM
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Ok, it seems to me the question how to change [b]all the coolant (as opposed to only ~50% that one can drain from the radiator) is the best kept secret around here... I found this question being asked several times on the forum, with no intelligible answer.

How do I join that clandestine society of people who know this sacred ritual?
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#8 Old 08-28-2010, 03:06 PM
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Wickedlou9
QUOTE (U-96 @ Oct 26 2009, 07:58 AM)
Quote:
Ok, it seems to me the question how to change [b]all the coolant (as opposed to only ~50% that one can drain from the radiator) is the best kept secret around here... I found this question being asked several times on the forum, with no intelligible answer.

How do I join that clandestine society of people who know this sacred ritual?
I bought the Haynes manual for the Sante Fe before starting some maintenance.

It's almost impossible to change all the coolant. For the v-6 engines, in addition to the plug in your radiator, there are 2 more drain plugs on the engine block. One is on the front side of the engine and the other is on the back side. To access the front drain plug on my 2.7 v-6 you have to remove the starter. You might be able to access it without removing the starter but it would be difficult. The plug is like directly over the starter. My Santa Fe is a 4wd model. For me, in order to access the rear drain plug in the other side of the block I would have to remove the drive shaft and the transfer case . The plug is directly above those things. on a FWD model it would most likely not be as hard. If you have 4wd, don't bother. It's not worth it. Just take it somewhere. They can hook it up to a machine and do a power flush of the fluid.

In the Haynes manual the steps are as follows:

Wait till radiator is cool
Set car on full heat setting so the coolant from the cabin heating system can drain also. Otherwise the valve will remain closed and that coolant won't drain.
1) open radiator cap and expansion tank cap.
2) Access drain plug under radiator and drain all the fluid out.
3) Then drain both the plugs in the engine block
4) Remove the thermostat and then reattach the housing, leaving the thermostat out.

5) Disconnect the upper radiator hose and run it to some container large enough to hold alot of water. a big bucket or something.

6) Then get a garden hose and run it into the radiator. With the thermostat removed it will allow the coolant to freely flow through the system. Run the garden hose into the radiator it self and turn it on a slow rate until it comes out the top of that radiator hose and runs clear. Once it runs clear, you have fully flushed the system.

Now repeat steps 1, 2 AND 3 to fully drain the tap water from your system.
Re-install the thermostat.

THEN Fill the radiator with your coolant mixture.

Turn the car on and let it idle until it heats up enough that the thermostat opens. Once the upper radiator hose goes from cold to hot you know the thermostat is open.
Now you have to fill the radiator again and also fill up the overflow tank.

Drive it around, let it get hot and let the coolant work through the system. Then go back home and let the engine cool. ONce it's cool, check level again and top off the radiator.





Sound like a lot of work? IT IS!!!! It took me 3 hours and I couldn't even access those drain bolts in the engine block.

Do yourself a favor and take it somewhere. I am never doing this job again.
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#9 Old 08-28-2010, 06:20 PM
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2WD, up on rack, pull rear block plug, let it drain.

Drain radiator

Re-fill with pre-mixed coolant,,,,,, I mix 1 bottle coolant with slight over 3qt water, tests out avg of -35

Run engine till hot, install cap

All done

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#10 Old 08-29-2010, 08:10 AM
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Wickedlou9
QUOTE (sbr711 @ Aug 28 2010, 05:20 PM)
Quote:
2WD, up on rack, pull rear block plug, let it drain.

Drain radiator

Re-fill with pre-mixed coolant,,,,,, I mix 1 bottle coolant with slight over 3qt water, tests out avg of -35

Run engine till hot, install cap

All done
Let this be a lesson. 4wd is the devil
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