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CHATROOM: Turbo Engine Oil

32K views 94 replies 43 participants last post by  j.chan424@gmail.com 
#1 ·
I didn't know that a turbo, wasn't a sealed unit. So does the motor oil also lubricate, the turbo? Or is there a seperate oil filler for the turbo? I remember working on a 06 impala, the idler pully was lubricanted by the oil pump..
 
#3 ·
On a turbo road car, using the engine oil is the best way to warm it quickly when cold and remove excess heat when warmed up through dissipation from the sump. It's routine on turbo-diesels and fine for gasoline road cars.

Track cars have different requirements in many respects.
 
#5 ·
On performance cars definitely - on road cars then not so. my turbo-diesel can go 20,000 miles (30,000 km) between changes - and Mobil 1 can be used.

Your Subaru WRX needed frequent oil changes because it used a track variant of the engine - ordinary turbo Subarus have normal Subaru OCI.
 
#18 ·
All engines need "good" oil.

In Europe, Motul sell GM Specific LL A/B 025 5W-30 which is good for 30,000 miles in turbo-diesels and a 5W-40 ACEA-C3 which is good for 20,000 miles in turbo-diesels including BMW and Mercedes.

Hyundai turbo-diesels can do very well on lesser oils as long as they're ACEA-C3 - eg Castrol Edge FST 0W-30 ACEA-C2,C3.

The secret is using the right oil for the engine - Europe has the ACEA category classification to do this - perhaps North America needs something similar? It's only a matter of test and certification - US oil companies already produce many ACEA graded oils for sale in Europe.
 
#19 ·
Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic

Advanced Full Synthetic with superior Active Cleansing Agent

Thinking of Trading up to a full synthetic? Next-generation Pennzoil Platinum Keeps pistons up to 40% cleaner than the toughest industry standard.1
  • Cleans out engine sludge better than our conventional and synthetic blend oils2
  • Better for severe driving conditions than conventional and synthetic blend oils4
  • No other leading motor oil helps keep engines cleaner5
  • No other leading full synthetic oil provides better wear protection6
  • Exceeds the most stringent car manufacturer requirements for cleanliness and protection7-Including GM dexos18
Wear Protection
While all motor oils are designed to offer wear protection is just one part of protecting an engine.And it's a fact that no leading full synthetic motor oil provides better wear protection than Pennzoil Platinum.9
Specifications:
Pennzoil Platinum exceeds the requirements of the following industry specifications:
  • Exceeds API SN and all previous categories; lLSAC GF-5 and ACEA A5
  • Exceeds Chrysler MS-6395, Ford WSS-M2C929-A, GM 609M, GM 4718M and Honda/Acura HTO-06
  • Exceeds Chrysler MS-6395, GM 6094M and GM 4718M
  • Exceeds APISL/CF, ACEA C3, A3/B4-04 and A3/B3-04
  • Meets BMW LL-04, MB-Approval 229.51, and VW 502 00/505 00/505 01
  • Exceeds API SL/CF, ACEA C3-04, A3/B4-04
  • Meets VW 504 00/507 00 and Chrysler MS-10725
Specifications met vary by viscosity grade.
1 Based on lLSAC GF-5 and Sequence lllG piston deposit test using SAE 5W-30.
2 Based on severe sludge clean-up test using SAE 5W-30.
3 Superior vs. our conventional and synthetic blend oils.
4 Examples of severe driving conditions are stop and go driving, frequent short trips, extreme hot or cold temperatures, extensive idling, driving with heavy loads, driving in dusty conditions.
5 Based on Sequence VG sludge test using SAE 5W-30.
6 Based on Sequence IVA wear test using SAE 5W-30.
7 Based on GF-4, Ford, Chrysler and GM specifications.
8 Applies to SAE 5W-30



Looks like this meets European standards
 
#20 · (Edited)
  • Exceeds ... ACEA C3
This is a valid claim, the other ACEA claims are out of date.


Your problem is knowing WHICH grade at ACEA is needed for your specific engine and of course HMA won't know. The Australians normally get all the diesel and gasoline engines available (UK only gets diesels) but for the 2013 the Aussies aren't getting the 2.0T - only the 2.4GDi - pity as that would have told you which ACEA grade is needed.
 
#21 ·
I don't know why some people will argue the point of getting oil that is "just good enough" and with turbos, using really good SYNTHETIC oil is very important.

A turbo engine puts more of a strain on engine oil than a conventional NA (naturally aspirated) engine. Because the oil is circulating through the turbo unit, it gets much hotter than if it were only circulating through the engine. Thereby, you need to use oil that can take the heat and maintain consistency through a harsher cycle of heat up/cool down.

Why do I recommend Motul? Because it's used in European racing and has a dedicated following. Europeans are snobs, yes but they also stick with what works and if it stops working, they stop using it. In my opinion, you won't find a blind following in Europe like you would in North America (GM?) and that's why I'd go with Motul.

That said, no one really knows what oil is best for our cars and aside from just using what the manufacturer recommends, it's still a crap shoot and the only thing we can do is make the best educated guess we can make.

What we have to keep in mind is that the factory is most likely using the cheapest oil it can use that meets its standards and that's fine because all they have to do is make the car, test it and then ship it out whereas WE, the consumer, will use the car for 10+ years so with that in mind, wouldn't you want to use oil that greatly exceeds what the manufacturer recommends?
AND, wouldn't you want to change the oil at smaller intervals to ensure that your engine is running at peak performance?.... I know I would.


Think about it. ;)
 
#22 ·
I would hate to think car manufacturers adopt the practice of "thanks for your money, here's your car. Now **** off".

While it's true that they are in the business of making money, it is also in their best interest in making sure their products perform well and last fairly long. That's how you get brand loyalty, repeat customers and word-of-mouth advertising which ultimately translates into profits for them.

We all generally agree that turbocharged engines are harder on the oil - but so do the manufacturers. Which is why the oil change intervals are shorter than normally aspirated engines.

Now for those who lose sleep over how often they need to change the oil, what kind of oil will they use? What brand? Or how about those who even send their oil for analysis? Maybe some people have extraordinary driving environments that justify this sort of behavior but for the average consumer, following the recommended intervals that match their needs closest should suffice. These are not highly engineered race engines nor is everyone pushing the limits all day, everyday.

I've always used full synthetic and perhaps I'm wrong but I'm of the opinion that they all perform within a very narrow band of difference from each other. A complicated way of saying for what we use them, they're all the same. The extra benefits which pricier brands claim might be true in a lab but none of which we'll ever see in day-to-day use. So I just shop by price and buy the cheapest (but reputable) synthetic oil I can find when I need it.
 
#23 ·
I had my Subaru Outback XT (Turbo) for 5 years. Used a cheaper dino/synthetic hybrid oil at dealer throughout. They offered fully synth, but never went for it. Never had issue with my Turbo. Frankly, unless bringing your engine up to 4-5 grand (RPM) on a constant basis, and you're diligent of getting your oil changed, then most will be fine. Nevertheless, going for fully synthetic is probably good peace of mind for longevity, but paying top dollar for a specific brand may be a bit of a waste, unless of course, your taking your car to the track....or drive it day-in day-out like you are on a track!:D
 
#24 ·
I drive my car like I do on a track EVERY DAY.... I just drive it much slower than I would on a track. Track driving habits carried over to daily driving habits (with the exception of speed) make for more efficient driving.
 
#25 ·
+1
I love the looks I get from people thinking I'm weird when I take a different line on the "on ramp". But I just smile as I smoothly turn and am able to accelerate constantly, while they swing wide, their vehicle leaning hard, and the dust flying as they hit the side of the road.:D
 
#27 ·
Using the "racing line" is the smoothest way through any corner, curve or junction - at any speed.

In the debate about types of oil and frequency of change, it's often overlooked that full-synthetic stays in grade much longer than part-synthetic or mineral oil and extended oil change intervals is the main justification for paying the higher price for full-synthetic.
 
#28 ·
So, nearing my first oil change on my SFS 2.0T and reading the 3 pages on this thread.... I'm still lost on this topic. I've read my manual, and it states what kind of oil to use (although I'll be going to synthetic), but at what intervals? I've read to go in at 5000km for you first change, then how often after that?
 
#29 ·
Since my wife and I don't use my car as much as we do hers, mine can go a good 6 months before I'll change the oil.... I've done my own oil changes since I got my first car at 19 so for me I'll usually check it and it it smells terribly used (a really obvious carbon smell to the oil), I know it's due for a change. If it is still dark brown and glides nicely when I rub it between my thumb and forefinger then I know I can go a bit longer. This is a *feel* type of method that can only be used if you have felt and smelled burnt engine oil. If you don't know what burnt engine oil feels and smells like than it's better to stick to what the odometer is telling you.

Everyone gauges the need to change the oil differently.
 
#34 ·
You guys do what you want it's your money, but the owners manual is the ultimate authority when it comes to oil changes. Hyundai has your best interest and that of the car in mind, so follow the instructions, as simple as that. Don't trust a dealer or a service tech.

Just FYI BMW says to change oil after 15,000 miles on their gas turbo engines. Yes I said 15,000. They have a full warranty for 4 years so I figured that if you blew up your engine following the recommendations, it's their money not yours.
 
#35 ·
Hyundai has your best interest and that of the car in mind
How do you square that with the fact that Hyundai Korea, who design and develop the engines, never make this information available to the general public. The Hyundai marketing company in each country publishes the information but almost every country is different in it's service interval requirements.

So how can Hyundai USA and Hyundai Canada both be right when they give different service interval information ?
 
#41 · (Edited)
BMW turbo engines are a bit specialised.

Hyundai turbo engines in Santa Fe are currently due oil changes at 20,000 miles or 2 years, reduced to 10,000 miles or 1 year in extreme operating conditions - but that's only true in Europe.

The Veloster 1.6 GDI turbo is due oil changes ar 12,500 miles or 1 year - the same as other engines in the Veloster.
 
#44 · (Edited)
If you choose synthetic or conventional, neither of those is a spec. Hyundai recommends, SAE 5W-30/API SM/ILSAC-GF4/ ACEA 5. These are specs, and not difficult specs to meet at that. Most ots oils are SN (which was partly developed for turbo protection in mind) /ILSAC GF5. At the requisite oci's of 3 or 5k miles, a top shelf conventional oil will do fine. Hyundai would not offer a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty if this weren't the case. Synthetic will give many of us peace of mind but it isnt necessary according to the manufacturer at these intervals. Heck, in the owners manual footnotes, they even allow for API SL. So, if using the aforementioned SN rating, your already way ahead of the game.

Also, many of us conduct uoa's and critique it as poor because at 5k miles the particular car's TBN is 1, the oil has sheared from a 30, to almost a 20 weight and/or the additives in the oil appear to be almost depleted. But if the the most important information, the wear metals number, show under universal averages while on a conventional oil, the lube actually did its job. This is not a poor performance.
 
#45 ·
If you choose synthetic or conventional, neither of those is a spec. Hyundai recommends, SAE 5W-30/API SM/ILSAC-GF4/ ACEA 5. These are specs, and not difficult specs to meet at that. Most ots oils are SN (which was partly developed for turbo protection in mind) /ILSAC GF5. At the requisite oci's of 3 or 5k miles, a top shelf conventional oil will do fine. Hyundai would not offer a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty if this weren't the case. Synthetic will give many of us peace of mind but it isnt necessary according to the manufacturer at these intervals. Heck, in the owners manual footnotes, they even allow for API SL. So, if using the aforementioned SN rating, your already way ahead of the game.

Also, many of us conduct uoa's and critique it as poor because at 5k miles the particular car's TBN is 1, the oil has sheared from a 30, to almost a 20 weight and/or the additives in the oil appear to be almost depleted. But if the the most important information, the wear metals number, show under universal averages while on a conventional oil, the lube actually did its job. This is not a poor performance.
Excellent Excellent post and entirely correct!
 
#48 ·
If I had a turbo I would use only full synthetic oil ( only because most turbos are universally harder on the oil ) and probably would have an oil change interval of no longer than 5000 miles. This is especially true for GDI engines because they have a greater potential for fuel dilution...not to mention the carbon deposit issue that may or may not have been solved with the newer generation engines.
 
#49 ·
When I picked up my car, since it had 360 miles on it, I insisted on a full-synthetic oil change. They put a sticker that said next change due at 3500 miles. I was on a road trip, so I just brought it in at 4,000 miles. When I picked it up, my "next service due" was set at 3,700 miles or 90 days. It's a 2.0T AWD. Now I'm as clueless as the rest of you when to change it!
 
#50 ·
Are they using some sort of program with predicatability alogorithm ? I liked the concept of the oil change monitor in the car itself - factors such as engine temp cycles, cold starts and type of driving all are fed into a calculation . Not of fan of Hyundai's fixed and relatively short OCI interval which also doesn't recognize that good synthetic oil can extend oil change intervals
 
#54 ·
i wouldnt knock blended oils. Motul (one of the world leaders in racing oil) uses a blend called Technosynthese. When i raced, i personally was sponsored by Amsoil, but i wouldnt hesitate to use Motul blended oil in either my racebikes or cars.



 
#55 ·
Oil weight for 2.0T

Hello guys, just wondering what weight of the oil your using on your Turbo... I just recently went to the dealer and they said hyundai canada is now recommending 5w40 instead of the 5w30 which is on the manual. They said they are starting to use this weight as soon as it was posted in their bulletin. Any one knows this yet?:confused: Now im using this oil(5w40) which i feel is not superior from the one im using before (5w30)
 
#58 ·
Call another dealer's service department and inquire. Second opinions count. Personally? I would stick to what the book says. As long as you do what the book recommends, oil-related repair responsibilities fall squarely back onto the shoulders of Hyundai.

Ask this guy to produce a copy of that bulletin he is referencing. It's "put up, or shut up," time, for him. Let us know if he does/does not produce it.
 
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