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Accent Engine oil

147K views 80 replies 26 participants last post by  Tiger-Heli 
#1 ·
Do you guys know the appropriate engine oil (grade) recommended for Accent 1.6L petrol version?

TIA!
 
#2 ·
5w-20, its in the owners manual and on the oil cap.
 
#5 ·
Verify the proper weight based on what your owner's manual advises, also check that oil cap as was mentioned...

I am suspecting they may spec a heavier oil for Australia than they do for North America. At one point I believe that was the case, not sure if it still is. In your owner's manual, hopefully there is a chart showing acceptable grades for certain temperatures the vehicle is operated in.
 
#7 ·
I am suspecting they may spec a heavier oil for Australia than they do for North America.
Yep, 5W30. The bulk of the country doesn't drop below freezing in Winter, but temperatures are regularly well above 40C during Summer. No real point having a 20 weight oil when warm here :)

In fact, many large older family sedans that were specced for 20W50 originally use 40W70 during long drives in Summer towing it gets that bad...
 
#8 ·
Yep, 5W30. The bulk of the country doesn't drop below freezing in Winter, but temperatures are regularly well above 40C during Summer. No real point having a 20 weight oil when warm here :)
I used to apply the same reasoning, living in the desert where it can be as hot as 50C. However, someone pointed out to me that, whether it's winter or summer, your engine has a thermostat controlled cooling system and will always run at a constant temperature.

Evidently, the only thing that matters is the cold-start temperature. Perhaps in a warm climate 10w20 would be ok. In an extremely cold climate, 0w20.

There is a web site where they pick apart the finer details of oil. I'd like to understand this topic better. But, for now, it sounds like heavier weight oil is only beneficial for higher-mileage cars (more wear, more oil consumption due to loss of close tolerance). For a newer car, heavier weight may decrease mileage.

(Some say lighter oil sacrifices wear for economy. But, I think if your engine has to work harder to go the same distance, consuming more fuel, that's going to equate to wear too. Anyway, wear prevention may be a valid reason to use heavier oil. But, I don't think ambient temperature is a valid reason.).
 
#9 ·
I don't think ambient temperature is a valid reason.).
Ambient temperature has everything to do with your engine's oil weight, 80% if engine wear is cause at cold start up. If the engine oil is to think it will take to long to lubricate the engine (dry start), if the engine oil is to thin it won't be enough initial film thickness to protect it.

Oil theckens as temperature drops, and thins as temperature rises.

Cold climates need lighter weights because of extreme temperature drops and dry start protection, however hotter climates need thicker oil because the engine runs hotter (cooling system less efficient) and heat soak for longer when turned off, this creates internal varnish and sludge.

When an engine is at operating temperature a...
5w30 oil is only a 10wt oil,
5w20 oil is a 7 or 8wt oil.

Engine need a minimum of a 7wt before wear is increases.

Now we have to take fuel dilution in to account........seems to be more of a factor with Direct injection engines and Common Rail Diesels (same technology).

A 5w30 oil can turn into a 5w20 (cold) or 7wt (hot) when it comes time to change
A 5w20 oil can turn into a 5w10-15 (cold)or 5wt(hot) when it comes time to change

This is why a slight increase in wear is noticed with 5w20, however it increases fuel economy by 0.5-1.0%......

Engine oil is always a balance between long-term wear and fuel economy. An owner must figure out what is more important to them personally.

I drive my vehicles into the ground, so I personally like the long-term protection of 5w30, because 1% fuel economy is negotiable.

Just my 2 cents
Duro
 
#35 ·
OK… az2008… to shorten this conversation…. I will simply say you have taught me something…. I wish I had discovered this years ago…. Instead of adding bigger and better radiators… I could have saved a lot of money by simply putting smaller pulley on water pump and running water through system faster…. Maybe even the NASCAR guys could benefit from this also…. They spend far too much money on larger and more efficient radiators.
 
#36 ·
They spend far too much money on larger and more efficient radiators.
Sarcasm noted. I agree that, like any other component in a cooling system, the radiator can be the limiting factor (weak link). There is an optimal flow of water for a given size radiator. Increasing the flow results in a diminishing return.

Racing applications are obsessed with squeezing every HP out of an engine for 5-10 seconds. They may invest in more efficient radiators so they can run their water pump slower, spending less power turning a pulley than carrying a larger amount of water.
 
#43 ·
To be honest it's over prices purple goo......

It is also a group III base oil with excessive additives. I would suggest if you looking at royal purple save a few dollars and put in Mobil 1 it's just as good, easier to find, and alittle cheaper for the same quality as royal purple.

Duro
 
#47 ·
5w is NOT 5 “weight”

In contrast to a monograde oil, a multi-viscosity oil also has to meet a “High Temperature/High Shear” requirement, but I’ll talk about that in a minute. Let’s talk about the “w” number for a moment.

This first number (the “5″ in 5w30) is only a relative number which basically indicates how easily it will allow an engine to “turn over” at low temperatures. It is NOT a viscosity reference. In other words, a 10w30 is NOT a 10 weight oil in cold temperatures and a 30 weight oil in warm temperatures.

In fact, since SAE viscosity classifications only apply to an oil at 100 degrees C, it doesn’t even make sense to label it as a certain SAE viscosity at any temperature other than 100 degrees C.

Besides, if you thought about it for a second, it wouldn’t make sense for a 10w30 oil to be a 10 weight oil in the cold and a 30 weight oil in warm temperatures. What liquid do you know of that gets “thicker” as its temperature increases or “thinner” as the temperature decreases? I would venture to say you probably can’t come up with one. This holds true for motor oil as well. If a 10w30 was a 30 weight oil at 100 degrees C and a 10 weight oil at cold temperatures, that would mean it “thinned out” as the temperature dropped. That just doesn’t make any sense considering what we know about liquids. It just doesn’t happen like that.

The fact is that a 5w30 motor oil is thicker in cold temperatures than in warm temperatures. In fact, you could easily demonstrate this for yourself. Have you ever tried to pour oil out of the bottle in the winter – even a winter rated multi-viscosity oil? It pours more slowly, doesn’t it? That’s because the cold temperature “thickens” the oil.
However, a 5w30 motor oil will be thinner than a 10w30 motor oil when subjected to the same low temperature conditions – because the “W” number is lower. This is an indication of better cold weather performance. In other words, a 5w30 flows better in cold weather than a 10w30 motor oil will.

Think of the “W” as a “winter” classification instead of a “weight” classification.




This is a very simplest way of stating it, however it does prove the point. With oil we are concerned with protection, however without flow you don't have protection.......


Just my 2 cents
Duro
 
#49 ·
5w is NOT 5 “weight”

This first number (the “5″ in 5w30) is only a relative number which basically indicates how easily it will allow an engine to “turn over” at low temperatures. It is NOT a viscosity reference. In other words, a 10w30 is NOT a 10 weight oil in cold temperatures and a 30 weight oil in warm temperatures.



Just my 2 cents
Duro
Duro5341, this is where I have a difference of opinion…. Yeah… I know what its like and everyone has one! ;)

It is my understanding that the numbers such as 5w30 is a grade not viscosity (thickness). It was also my understanding that conventional oil with this designation is made from 5 grade oil, to act thinner at low temperatures with additives to make it act as 30 grade oil at operating temp ~ 212 degrees. This sounds like what dblotii was indicating.
 
#53 ·
I use the standard dinosaur oil, and I'm at about 5500 miles since my last oil change, and the oil is dark brown not quite black, which means its doing its job. Thin, runny oil is also great during the winter, its easier for the engine to start because its circulates right away. The worst thing to have during cold temps just when starting the car, is fresh, thick oil believe it or not.
 
#55 ·
Not that I really want to get in the middle of this, but, just to add to the fun - I read that synthetic and mineral oils follow somewhat "reversed" conventions for the underlying grade.

Motor Oil 103 - Bob is the Oil Guy

"A 10W-30 multi-grade mineral based oil is made from a 10 grade oil and has VI improvers added to thicken the product in a 212°F engine. It acts as a 30 grade oil when hot. It acts more as a 10 grade oil at startup"

"A 10W-30 synthetic oil is based on a 30 grade oil. This is unlike the counterpart mineral oil based on a 10 grade oil. There is no VI improver needed. The oil is already correct for the normal operating temperature of 212°F. It has a thickness of 10 while you drive to work."
 
#56 ·
Not that I really want to get in the middle of this, but, just to add to the fun - I read that synthetic and mineral oils follow somewhat "reversed" conventions for the underlying grade.

Motor Oil 103 - Bob is the Oil Guy

"A 10W-30 multi-grade mineral based oil is made from a 10 grade oil and has VI improvers added to thicken the product in a 212°F engine. It acts as a 30 grade oil when hot. It acts more as a 10 grade oil at startup"

"A 10W-30 synthetic oil is based on a 30 grade oil. This is unlike the counterpart mineral oil based on a 10 grade oil. There is no VI improver needed. The oil is already correct for the normal operating temperature of 212°F. It has a thickness of 10 while you drive to work."
Synthetics are a whole different ball game, and require very little additives to perform leaps and bounds above conventional oil.

They are superior in every-way to conventional, and even blended oils, and thus why are oils of choice of enthusiasts who only want the best. However they are more expensive, and most people hate spending more money than they have to, regardless of the money saved at higher mileages.

Duro


Duro
 
#58 ·
I'm glad I trusted that synthetics actually are better than conventional then.
OK…. Why do I do this?…. Actually at operating temperature, (considering fresh oil) a conventional is just as good as a synthetic…. And when changed at reasonable mileage there is almost no difference…. The synthetic has advantage from ambient temperature to operating temperature and during longer oil change periods…. OK guys, go ahead and slaughter my conception. :eek:
 
#68 ·
i want to ask the same qu.

what sae should i use for my accent mc 2008 65000km (currenlty shell 15-50 )
i use it daily short drive
driving easy not fast
Lighter weight oil will get to vital engine parts and circulate thru your engine quicker on startups than heavier weight oil. I would think a 5W-30 or 10W-30 would work well in your case. You indicate short daily drives, which indicate your 15W-50 is probably the worst choice you can make. This is not a diesel is it?
 
#74 ·
2016 Accent engine oil..Amsoil?!

PLS forgive me my way english and if long...I know to follow 5-20 and Company saying Quaker recommend and I did ask Tech at Hyundai and told me that if u switch to synthetic oil, Better stay on with it as now on and he didn't say nothing about warranty but I wasn't thinking ask tech abt it but I will someday this week go in Hyundai as just playing around nosing around then will ask for more opinion about oil and warranty too before if I want to use Amsoil and yes its $$$$ but I really don't care as just all I care is/are engine/parts, longer/cleaner but if I use Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil as say can change to 25,000/15,000 depend driving so anyway that I don't mind change it twice/maybe third time so $$$$ i don't care, a year SSSM Oil so then well Hyundai recommend every 7,500 so I figure do it twice a year using SSSM oil and I know its say 25/15,000 or once year...so XL seem good follow Hyundai 7,500 miles becuase XL 10,000 miles/6 months or longer...XL I don't mind abt $8.60 quart or $33.20 gallon abt saving $1.20 as for me driving abt less than 15,000 per year and possible more...IF I use Amsoil, must keep receipts for record so if Hyundai say Sorry warranty avoid They must proof it....You know I really dont trust anyone as Hyundai do it for me Reason is I did asked about oil told me IF use synthetic, stay on it but didn't say abt warranty and I did asked about what brand and kind of oil you use in their Hyundai garage, Do you guess what they told me?! "GULF OIL" ?? It didn't tell me as Quaker or what...So then I am not going to let them do it for me..I going do is follow 5-20 and change 7,500 and keep receipts PERIOD! By the way.I am still doing more research and more deeper ? as surprise....
 
#77 ·
told me that if u switch to synthetic oil, Better stay on with it as now on
That's a pretty common wive's tale, and actually, it is supposed to work the other way. Synthetic is supposed to clean and flow better, so if you have an old engine with bad seals, it might leak/burn more oil on Synthetic than dino oil - but with a good engine, you can swap back and forth with no issues.

I wouldn't spend the extra on Amsoil, but your warranty with Hyundai says you have to change the oil every 12-months or 7500 miles. Even if Amsoil says it is fine for 15K miles (and it might be) you will risk voiding the warranty if you wait that long.

IF I use Amsoil, must keep receipts for record so if Hyundai say Sorry warranty avoid They must proof it....
This is somewhat of a gray area. I plan to DIY my own oil changes and register the service at myhyundai.com, but if you DIY, you don't really have receipt for the OIL CHANGE. You have a receipt that you bought the oil and a filter that fits your car, but no PROOF that that oil actually went in your car.

Now, legally, even if you NEVER changed the oil - Hyundai has to show that the warranty issue was caused by you not changing the oil before they can deny the claim. OTOH, if you have all the receipts for purchase - they can say that you don't have proof that the oil was changed and can deny the warranty claim and it is probably not legal, but you are without a car and have to sue them in court to eventually win and get them to cover it.

Personally, I plan to log everything into myhyundai.com and IF I ever have a major engine problem (piston rings, for example) and Hyundai won't warranty it b/c I DIY'd the oil changes and only have purchase receipts, I will never buy another Hyundai and will vocally tell friends and family not to, but I'll cross that bridge if and when I ever get to it.

Do you guess what they told me?! "GULF OIL" ??
It wouldn't be my first choice, but Gulf dino 5W-20 or 5W-30 every 7500 miles or 12-months is perfectly fine from a warranty standpoint and should be fine for the engine at least for the first 100K miles and likely longer.
 
#75 ·
If you ask 10 people about oil, you’ll most likely get 10 different answers. The fact is switching between synthetic and petroleum base oil is no problem and will not affect warranty. Actually some oils are a blend of synthetic and petroleum base oil. I would not go longer than 7,500 miles between changes with any oil to protect warranty, which would eliminate any complaint Hyundai might have. I also would never go 25,000 miles on any oil change and would not waste money on high priced Amsoil oil. Changing oil more often is more about keeping it cleaner than about oil break down, but I would not waste time and money on 3,000 mile oil changes either as it is a gimmick to make money by those doing service.
 
#76 ·
Me thinks his 25,000 is KM, but that's still 15,500 miles and is still too long between oil changes. 15,000 KM is 9300 miles, still too long.
 
#80 ·
When I was at the dealer for a separate warranty issue, I asked about DIY oil changes and warranty. He said "as long as you have all receipts for what you've bought and used in the car, your warranty should be fine."

Now I know what a service tech at one local dealer says is one thing, and what the warranty will actually cover is another. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
 
#81 ·
I tend to agree with what the service tech says - and I'd go even further and say really all you need is a log (Excel file maybe) of what was done when. However, it probably makes a difference if Hyundai is talking about whether they will replace a $200 peeling steering wheel under warranty or whether they will replace $3000 in piston rings (and labor). It shouldn't matter, but it likely does ...
 
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