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Factory stereo options

2K views 13 replies 3 participants last post by  Tiger-Heli 
#1 ·
Ok so I just got a base model accent hatch. Did hyundai offer a factory sub woofer? If not what does anyone recommend for space saving and ease of install.
 
#2 ·
SAB is good but takes place not only in the trunk but also health. Listen well when the music is beautiful and makes the inside of you and the people around you for kilometers. Cardiovascular system, hearing, eyesight, all of this adversely affect.
 
#3 ·
No factory subwoofer. There are options anywhere from dual 15's to smaller self-contained options.

If you just want something similar to other cars OEM options, I would look at something like a Bazooka bass tube, Kenwood Woox, or Boss Bass (900, 1500 ...) etc.

SAB is good but takes place not only in the trunk but also health. Listen well when the music is beautiful and makes the inside of you and the people around you for kilometers. Cardiovascular system, hearing, eyesight, all of this adversely affect.
Okay, if you say so ... I'll have some of whatever you are smoking ...
 
#5 ·
Sounds good. Yeah I'm looking around for stuff now. A simple 10" woofer will be good. The hatch is so small I don't want to use up all my space. Guess the next thing I need to do is see if the oem head unit has sub outputs, seems doubtful but worth a look.
Otherwise I'll have to tap the rear speakers and get a amp with a crossover.

-Matt
 
#6 ·
Most of the options I posted would work under-seat which would be good.

I can almost guarantee no subwoofer outputs on the head unit.

If you are keeping the head unit, you can use something like an LC6i which would split out the subwoofer frequencies. Or you could run the front and rear outputs to an SLC4 and combine the RCA outputs, which would allow you to use the fader without affecting the bass output.

Or find an amp with speaker-level inputs.

Crossover (LPF) is a good idea, but not necessarily required with a subwoofer, the highs will basically roll-off if fed full-range inputs.
 
#7 ·
So i have been out of the car audio world for a little. not sure what I just read with all those acronyms. (hits up google)
Id like to use an aftermarket radio and do a rear hatch sub, but I like my factory usb connection for my mp3 player. im sure I can make it work with an aftermarket radio however, plus I wouldnt have the death blue radio display.

I may just get a simple trunk sub that uses the stereo inputs.
I dont need a competition stereo, i just want more thump in my bass lol
 
#8 ·
Acronyms -

LC6I - AudioControl LC6i line-output converter - around $100.
SLC4 - Scosche 4-channel line output converter - around $25.
RCA - standard audio cable connector
LPF - Low-pass filter

Aftermaket head unit is an easy install in the RB Accent. Metra has a harness that will retain the factory USB connection (if the new stereo has rear USB) or you can route the new stereo USB cable to the glove box, or you can use a front USB port on the new head unit if it has that setup.
 
#9 ·
Acronyms -

LC6I - AudioControl LC6i line-output converter - around $100.
SLC4 - Scosche 4-channel line output converter - around $25.
RCA - standard audio cable connector
LPF - Low-pass filter

Aftermaket head unit is an easy install in the RB Accent. Metra has a harness that will retain the factory USB connection (if the new stereo has rear US
or you can route the new stereo USB cable to the glove box, or you can use a front USB port on the new head unit if it has that setup.
Cool, Imy not sure if I'm going to change out the factory unit.
Since the factory unit is a double din I'll have to see if there is a dash kit for it too. My pioneer unit has a front USB. Guess if nothing else I can use the lower dash USB for charging.

Bought a cheapy sub at walmart for now. Will see how bad it sounds haha. Then I might switch out to a better headunit.
 
#12 ·
Not sure I see the point ...

I don't know what radio you have, but ...



Radio has a front USB and Aux jack - to me you would just plug items in there and not use the OEM jack - and maybe remove it or tape over it as having a non-working jack would annoy me.

You COULD use the Metra kit and route their cables through the DIN pocket to the front of the radio, but I don't see that it gains you anything or looks good ...
 
#14 ·
Not sure you caught my point ...

- If your radio has rear USB/AUX - the Metra adapter to keep the console USB/AUX ports makes sense (although I would be tempted to just run the rear USB to the glove box and disable the console ports.

- Your radio has front USB/AUX - In this case, it is cleaner to use the radio ports and either put a plastic plate/panel/cover or black electrical tape over the console USB ports. It will look a lot better/cleaner IMHO than having cables coming out of the front of the radio to snake through the DIN pocket to route back to the console port - and if you do all that, you are at the rear console port anyway, so you could just remove//disable it then.
 
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