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Keyless entry

16K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  AUTOSPARK 
#1 ·
I've done plenty of searching (online as well as the service manual) in an attempt to figure out how to go about adding keyless entry to my Accent. I would love to be able to add factory parts instead of going 3rd party. Has anyone attempted this yet or know anything about it?

BTW, I bought my Accent (White, MT) a few months ago and have been lurking here since!
 
#2 ·
It seems like it revolves around the Body Control Module (BCM). You'd want to spend some time studying the ETM manual on hyundaitechinfo.com to learn where the BCM is, whether you have one, and to what extent the wiring is present to the doors.

The ETM manual implies there are accents with no BCM. If you don't have one, but the wiring is present it might be as simple as buying a BCM and dropping it in.

But, I doubt the wiring is present (and especially the solenoids in the doors).
 
#3 ·
I did look under the drivers-side crash panel and found a plate with two threaded holes that seem to match the picture on page 60 and 76 in the "Body Electrical System" chapter of the manual. I'm almost positive that's where the Receiver/BCM goes on a car with keyless. I found what I am guessing is the receiver online - link. I doubt this comes with any wiring or anything; not that I'm sure where those currently non-existent wires would even go (ECU and driver door?).
 
#4 ·
I wish I could see a part diagram of the "receiver." I've assumed the BCM is the receiver. I haven't seen any reference to a receiver in the ETM, but maybe I overlooked it.

It doesn't sound financially feasible. $150 for the receiver, $98 for the transmitter (key fob?). If the receiver's not the BCM, then you're probably looking at $500 for the BCM. More money for the solenoids in the doors (I'm sure Hyundai didn't install solenoids). Probably adding wiring to the harness(es).

Probably the most feasible option would be to maintain an open request with local junk yards that you want to harvest some electrical parts. Spend some time digging into the ETM manual and figuring out exactly everything that's different. (Which connectors your missing, necessitating replacement harnesses.).

But, even then, the BCM may extend further than just the door locks. I think it controls the 30-second courtesy lamp. So, there may be wiring you'd want to modify in another area. I forget if it communicates to the ECM computer. If it does, I'd wonder whether the ECM has been cut down in some way for the BCM-less model.

I've thought about doing something similar with Canadian junk yards. I'd love to get my hands on the Immobilizer parts which the US model omitted.

But, then it seemed like it would consume more time than it's worth.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I made an assumption in my prior post that the BCM-less model doesn't come with power door locks. But, looking at the ETM manual it appears it does. In that case, I don't think you need to do much to make remote lock/unlock work.

All you need to do is pulse the brown and gray wires in pin 15 and 16 (in the MF11 connector, inside the driver-side kick panel).[1]

At that point, I'd suggest you spend $80-$150 for an *alarm* which will have the wires to do those pulses.

What I mean is: I'm going to install an alarm in my car. When I do, the factory receiver (whatever that is) and remotes will be unused. In your case, instead of struggling to install these components (for 2-3 times the money), why not install an alarm? You'd have what everyone else has with an alarm. You just wouldn't render some factory stuff obsolete because you wouldn't have that stuff to begin with.

IMO, that would make more sense. I think you're trying to avoid the hokeyness of aftermarket keyless entry. But, if you do an alarm it's not hokey, it's an "upgrade." When people do alarms they stop using their factory remote fob (unless their car came with a factory alarm, which ours doesn't.).

I think all you lose is the potential to two two-stage unlock (one pulse unlocks the driver door, two pulses unlocks all doors). I think that's a function of the BCM and perhaps a wire from the driver door look called a two-turn wire.

I think that's the simpler way to look at it. Just "upgrade" to an alarm and you should have the same keyless entry everyone else has when they do it. Don't obsess over trying to make it factory.

[1] In your case it may be a different connector. The non-BCM model appears to control everything from the driver door. You'd probably work with pins 38 and 39 in FD11. The BCM model pulls this stuff into MF11 taking it to the BCM. Without the BCM, I think it just traverses around the four door connectors, starting with FD11 (which is higher in the kick panel).
 
#6 ·
Attached are photos from the ETM showing connectors MF11 and FD11. MF11 is low, near the floorboard. FD11 is higher up, inside a hole in the body (but, you'd really tap into two wires in the wrapped bundle going up to it).

Maybe the thing to do is to pop your kick panel and look at MF11 to see if pins 15 & 16 are brown & gray. Get a 10 megaohm digital multimeter and probe those wires to when you press the lock and unlock buttons. One should drop from 12v to almost 0. Another should go from 0 to 12v.

If they don't exist in that connector, or don't behave that way, then you want to look at pins 38 & 39 on FD11.
 

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#8 ·
so what is the difference is?
Looking at the schematic, the non-BCM model is wired more simply. Each door shares common brown and gray wires.

In the BCM model, each door has a ground and a wire going to the BCM. (The brown and gray go to the BCM too. But, there's two other wires that go to different pins on the BCM.).

That additional wiring seems to be related to the BCM model's ability to lock and unlock all the doors using the key in the driver's door.

- I can turn the key and all the solenoids lock (as if I used the remote fob).

- I can turn the key the other direction and the door lock solenoid unlocks (as if I pressed the remote fob once).

- I can turn the key twice and all the solenoids unlock (as if I pressed the remote fob twice).

The BCM is controlling this through those additional 2 wires. And, those 2 wires are what make that model's actuators more expensive.

If I were you guys I'd just install an alarm. Alarms come with door-lock interfaces (a wire to pulse your door lock wire). It's not like you're going to have some oddball kludge. You'd have exactly what everyone else has who installs an alarm. You may not have progressive door unlock. Or, you might have to work harder to get it (isolate the driver's pulse from the other doors).

Attached are the schematics. Two pages show the BCM door locks, one page shows the non-BCM.
 

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#9 ·
Thanks for all of the info! I'm going to pick up a keyless system in the near future. I know it may seem trivial, but the fob design/quality is the biggest reason I was wanting the factory system. Not a fan of cheap fobs that constantly break or come apart. The trunk actuator is also powered, so I don't think adding the trunk-popping feature will be much more difficult.

I'd really like to get a Viper system because the 5 button remote looks/feels good; unfortunately, the only reason to have that remote is the addition of a remote start feature. I have no desire to add a remote start because I always park in gear. The only features I really want are keyless doors, trunk popper, and if available, an immobilizer.

I'm probably going to get this kit. It is compatible with this switchblade key. I've always loved that remote style. Unfortunately, they don't have a blank for newer Hyundais available. A representative for the company said that auto manufacturers are becoming more strict on allowing 3rd parties to make keys, so it may be awhile, if they come at all. I guess the worst case scenario is making my own down the line.
 
#10 ·
The trunk actuator is also powered, so I don't think adding the trunk-popping feature will be much more difficult.
FWIW: I think even the BCM model requires a latch popping add on to make the hatch or trunk actually open. I know my hatch only unlocks. Not sure about the sedan. So, having to add a popping mechanism is no different than what we have to do with the BCM model (assuming the sedan is like the hatchback in this regard).

I have no desire to add a remote start because I always park in gear.
I felt the same way. But, you don't have to install remote start. Some of the alarms with remote start have additional alarm features which you can't get in non-start versions. You might pay $20-$40 more for remote start for the feature you want, and ignore features you don't.

I've decided to buy an Autopage 730. I chose it because the remote feels extremely solid, and it has additional features which I like. For example, it will report hood or trunk open separately. Other alarms report both. The reason I like this is that I can put the hatch on the door-open zone, and then put an add on sensor on the trunk zone. For example, a tilt sensor. If the tilt sensor goes off it will report as the trunk open (telling me it's the tilt sensor).

I wanted some remote features like that, and I didn't want to get into a remote with watch batteries. Since I want a 2-way system (informs me when the alarm is triggered), it might go through more batteries. I wanted a remote that can use rechargeable AAA batteries. That limited my choices a lot.

Autopage also supports self-installers. Viper won't talk to you, and makes their manuals unavailable. (You can find them online, but Viper disavows any knowledge.).

My main concern was that I wasn't happy with any Viper remote. But, I was looking at 2ways. If you're looking at 1way, maybe it's different.

The only features I really want are keyless doors, trunk popper, and if available, an immobilizer.
The nice thing is, if you later decide to install an alarm, you'll use the same wire(s) for the alarm's door lock/unlock. What you do now you could build upon later.

Regarding the immobilizer, I think you mean kill switch? To me, an immobilizer is the factory integrated chipped key and encrypted communication between the brain (ECM) and the key sensing circuit (truly disabling the car if anyone tries to hot wire it).

I wouldn't put a lot of faith in the kill switches which come with alarms. I think those are well understood by thieves. They can find the alarm quickly and understand the wiring. If you don't have an alarm (just keyless), it will give them even more time to poke around.

I think the only reliable kill switch is one you do yourself (or, pay a stereo/alarm place to do for you). Something completely independent of the alarm which would take awhile for a thief to find.

I intend to have 3 kill switches.

1. One manual switch to kill the fuel pump. This is something I can switch if I'm going to be away from the car for awhile, or uncomfortable with the neighborhood. It won't be automatically set when I turn off the ignition because that would involve relays, and I don't have a good feeling about putting a relay on a device necessary to keep the engine running. If it fails while driving it could be dangerous.

2. An automatically set kill switch (using relays) to interrupt the part of the starter circuit controlled by the gear shift (whether it's in neutral or park, or whether the clutch is depressed). I will make it appear the shifter isn't in the right position regardless of what anyone does to the shifter (or clutch).

In that case, the starter's more typical circuit wouldn't be interrupted and a thief would be more likely to waste time trying to find the interruption.

In addition to that, I'll use a magnetic reed switch to hide the switch behind a plastic panel. Nothing visible. I'll hold a magnet against the panel while starting the car.

3. I'll use the alarm's built-in killswitch to interrupt the starter's typical circuit (ignition to starter). To me, this is just a diversion. A honeypot. Something for the thief to waste their time on. They'll find the obvious, and maybe get flustered that it's not being defeated the way they thought it would.

Between those 3 things *and* an alarm, I don't think a thief would spend a lot of time on it. (I might also add a battery backup to the alarm in case they cut the battery.).

I'm probably going to get this kit.
I'm not familiar with that company. That page seems to play up built-in relays for the door locks. In your case, I don't think you need relays. (I think those are necessary for people who add actuators to manual lock doors. In that case, they need a high-current to the solenoid. They have to install a relay for the alarm's low-current trigger. The trigger energizes the relay's coil which uses very little current, allowing the high-current to pass through the relay's contacts to the solenoid.).

In your case, you'd just hook up the low-current trigger wires to the gray/brown wires (after using a digital multimeter to see if those wires pulse when you press the lock/unlock button. You should see 12v on one, and it drop to near 0. The other should be near zero and go to 12v when you press the button.).

It may not be important that that unit comes with built-in relays. But, if you thought it's something you need, I don't think it is.
 
#11 ·
I am trying to install a $20 remote entry system from amazon on my 2012 accent gls (no BCM). I found the brown and gray wires from FD11 and confirmed that they give 12V pulse when either lock/unlock command comes in from the driver's door. I also found two wires from the remote which send 12V pulses when lock/unlock is pressed on the remote.

However, I noticed when I connect these wires from the remote receiver to the wires found near FD11, and press any button a short is created and blows the fuse.
I studied the diagram above and assuming that when a remote is pressed and a 12V current from the receiver, not only does the current travel to each door, but it also make its way to the driver's door actuator which is not doing anything, and is connected to the ground.

Any Idea on how to resolve this problem?

Thank you.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#13 ·
However, I noticed when I connect these wires from the remote receiver to the wires found near FD11, and press any button a short is created and blows the fuse.
I haven't read all this thread and I don't know exactly how the central locking is wired on your car off the top of my head, but it sounds to me like the wires you've connected to are the wires that supply power to the locking actuators (ie the electric motors). Those wires are connected to ground by the locking control module in the driver's door which is why you are blowing the fuse when you put a positive pulse onto them.

If your car doesn't have a BCM it also wont have an actuator in the driver's door. What you need to do is fit an actuator in the driver's door to move the lock, route an additional 2 wires into the door and rewire your remote locking box to drive the actuator.

Good luck with the installation.

Scott.
 
#12 ·
You may look at 3rd party alarm system if you have power door locks. If you don't then try a junk card for a wrecked unit that you can get the door solenoids from.
As long as you have power locks you can get a remote to open doors and activate an alarm. Just a suggestion. Much cheaper than trying to get all factory parts with key fobs that are very expensive and the programming.
 
#14 ·
@Harujk- The actuators rest at ground, and 12Volt lock or unlock signal is switched to the actuators when you lock or unlock. Depending on the operation, lock or unlock, the 12V could be applied to either side of the actuator. This is the operation of the FD11 38 (brown unlock) and 39 (Grey lock) wires. This is known in the alarm industry as a 5 wire interface. Please note the drawing below. Using 2 relays, you can control the actuators with your alarm, and still allow control with the door switches. If you want to go this route, you need to make sure that the relays are wired correctly, with common (pin 30) toward the actuators in the vehicle. You could use regular Bosch type automotive relays for this (3 wire output Common, Normally closed, Normally Open), or DEI makes (or used to make) a module called the DEI451M, that integrates the 2 relays. These relays, in both discrete and module approaches, are driven by the negative outputs from your door lock wires of your alarm.


Good luck with the installation.
 

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#16 ·
Just to make it clear for Harujk, your remote locking interface should be able to drive the additional door actuator without any additional relays. And you won't need to cut into the car's original locking wires as shown in the 5 wire interface diagram above. Just wire the output of your remote interface to the two wires on the additional actuator.
 
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