The trunk actuator is also powered, so I don't think adding the trunk-popping feature will be much more difficult.
FWIW: I think even the BCM model requires a latch popping add on to make the hatch or trunk actually open. I know my hatch only unlocks. Not sure about the sedan. So, having to add a popping mechanism is no different than what we have to do with the BCM model (assuming the sedan is like the hatchback in this regard).
I have no desire to add a remote start because I always park in gear.
I felt the same way. But, you don't have to install remote start. Some of the alarms with remote start have additional alarm features which you can't get in non-start versions. You might pay $20-$40 more for remote start for the feature you want, and ignore features you don't.
I've decided to buy an
Autopage 730. I chose it because the remote feels extremely solid, and it has additional features which I like. For example, it will report hood or trunk open separately. Other alarms report both. The reason I like this is that I can put the hatch on the door-open zone, and then put an add on sensor on the trunk zone. For example, a tilt sensor. If the tilt sensor goes off it will report as the trunk open (telling me it's the tilt sensor).
I wanted some remote features like that, and I didn't want to get into a remote with watch batteries. Since I want a 2-way system (informs me when the alarm is triggered), it might go through more batteries. I wanted a remote that can use rechargeable AAA batteries. That limited my choices a lot.
Autopage also supports self-installers. Viper won't talk to you, and makes their manuals unavailable. (You can find them online, but Viper disavows any knowledge.).
My main concern was that I wasn't happy with any Viper remote. But, I was looking at 2ways. If you're looking at 1way, maybe it's different.
The only features I really want are keyless doors, trunk popper, and if available, an immobilizer.
The nice thing is, if you later decide to install an alarm, you'll use the same wire(s) for the alarm's door lock/unlock. What you do now you could build upon later.
Regarding the immobilizer, I think you mean kill switch? To me, an immobilizer is the factory integrated chipped key and encrypted communication between the brain (ECM) and the key sensing circuit (truly disabling the car if anyone tries to hot wire it).
I wouldn't put a lot of faith in the kill switches which come with alarms. I think those are well understood by thieves. They can find the alarm quickly and understand the wiring. If you don't have an alarm (just keyless), it will give them even more time to poke around.
I think the only reliable kill switch is one you do yourself (or, pay a stereo/alarm place to do for you). Something completely independent of the alarm which would take awhile for a thief to find.
I intend to have 3 kill switches.
1. One manual switch to kill the fuel pump. This is something I can switch if I'm going to be away from the car for awhile, or uncomfortable with the neighborhood. It won't be automatically set when I turn off the ignition because that would involve relays, and I don't have a good feeling about putting a relay on a device necessary to keep the engine running. If it fails while driving it could be dangerous.
2. An automatically set kill switch (using relays) to interrupt the part of the starter circuit controlled by the gear shift (whether it's in neutral or park, or whether the clutch is depressed). I will make it appear the shifter isn't in the right position regardless of what anyone does to the shifter (or clutch).
In that case, the starter's more typical circuit wouldn't be interrupted and a thief would be more likely to waste time trying to find the interruption.
In addition to that, I'll use a magnetic reed switch to hide the switch behind a plastic panel. Nothing visible. I'll hold a magnet against the panel while starting the car.
3. I'll use the alarm's built-in killswitch to interrupt the starter's typical circuit (ignition to starter). To me, this is just a diversion. A honeypot. Something for the thief to waste their time on. They'll find the obvious, and maybe get flustered that it's not being defeated the way they thought it would.
Between those 3 things *and* an alarm, I don't think a thief would spend a lot of time on it. (I might also add a battery backup to the alarm in case they cut the battery.).
I'm probably going to get
this kit.
I'm not familiar with that company. That page seems to play up built-in relays for the door locks. In your case, I don't think you need relays. (I think those are necessary for people who add actuators to manual lock doors. In that case, they need a high-current to the solenoid. They have to install a relay for the alarm's low-current trigger. The trigger energizes the relay's coil which uses very little current, allowing the high-current to pass through the relay's contacts to the solenoid.).
In your case, you'd just hook up the low-current trigger wires to the gray/brown wires (after using a digital multimeter to see if those wires pulse when you press the lock/unlock button. You should see 12v on one, and it drop to near 0. The other should be near zero and go to 12v when you press the button.).
It may not be important that that unit comes with built-in relays. But, if you thought it's something you need, I don't think it is.