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Oil?

7K views 37 replies 7 participants last post by  Tiger-Heli 
#1 ·
Hi. I have a 2016 Accent Hatchback and need to do my 3rd oil change. I recently started rideshare driving (Uber/Lyft) and so am putting a few extra miles on the car. A lot of stop and go, highway driving, etc.

My question is should I keep using normal oil when I go change it or should I use synthetic or some kind of synthetic blend? I live is South Texas so it gets pretty hot here in summer.

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Synthetic is ideal. It holds up far better to the fuel dilution that happens on direct injection motors. I live in Florida and especially in the summer the synthetic holds up far better.

Try to run a 5-30 in summer instead of the 5-20 recommended. The fuel dilution causes the 5-30 to act more like a lighter weight oil.

But yes, bottom line is synthetic = better able to hold up to the heat, not as effected by fuel dilution, increases protection at normal change intervals, potentially more power, etc.

I switched a long time ago and it helps quite a bit. Certainly worth the cost.
 
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#4 · (Edited)
It's well established that synthetic oils hold up better and resist break down. This is vital with the amount of fuel dilution gdi motor's have. A good synthetic will typically be "low ash" which is extremely important with the carbon build up GDI faces on the intake valves.

Here is a pretty good video covering some of the other reasons as well. I highly recommend switching to synthetic. There is nothing to argue about regarding knowing synthetic is better for the motor. I also change my synthetic in 3k miles and at most 4k miles due to fuel dilution. Look how quickly the oil get's dirty in these motors and smell it. If you have a heavy foot it increases dramatically as well.

 
#5 ·
OP - what oil change interval are you running.

Personally, I am doing 5K OCI, and I am using synthetic b/c I want to use 0W20 oil and that is only available in Synthetic.

As mentioned, Synthetic is better oil and only slightly more expensive (depending how you buy it).

If you are doing 7500 mile OCI's, I'd definitely recommend synthetic.

5K or less OCI's, you can probably get away with dino, but I'd still recommend synthetic.
 
#6 ·
Yea, it's not like you can't run conventional, it's just that synthetic offers a large amount of benefits especially in these direct injection motors. Not to sound like a broken record but the fuel dilution is a big problem and comes with the design, conventional brakes down much faster in these cases. Also, with fuel dilution a 5-30 acts more like a 5-20 over time as it thins the oil out. This is worse with conventional as it breaks down faster as well meaning the typical 3k OIC should optimally be around 2.5k on conventional. I know I regularly got it done around there before switching to synthetic.

This is why I also recommend running a 5-30 and not the 5-20 the factory puts in, but it really depends on your climate. Here in Florida I definitely recommend the 5w-30 year round. Might try some 0-40 I've got too just to see if it holds up better.
 
#7 ·
Cost is hard to quantify ...

If you don't DIY, it is usually around $20 with coupon for conventional oil changes and $60 for synthetic, for no good reason. (Often you can bring in your own oil to the oil change place and pay the conventional price).

If you do DIY - yes, you can buy the cheapest DINO for around $2.50 per quart, but good dino is around $3-3.50 per quart. At Wal-Mart, you can probably get 5-quarts of Synthetic for around $23-26, often with a $10 MIR, but the Accent takes 4 (3.8 quarts), so you have a quart left over. If you buy individual quarts, it is $7-8 per quart at Walmart, but the house brand syn at the auto parts store is usually around $5 each.
 
#8 ·
I use nothing but synthetic on all my vehicles, Bikes and cars. I try to find the best one for each application. On bikes I use Motul and on cars I just finished comparing and I find that Castrol Edge gives the best protection in a full synthetic oil. There are many youtube videos comparing the top oils like Mobil1 and others. For oil filter I use K&N. Now for you putting all those miles on the car I would recommend spending the extra $3.00 and get the Gold bottle Castrol Edge extended performance its meant for 15,000 mile wear and with a good filter you can go easy 5,000 or even more. Your car will perform much better and get better mileage with a good quality 100% synthetic and a good filter to handle the oil flow. I'm also in Florida and use 5W30 year around since w have a lot of heat and very high humidity. One more recommendation use Iridium / Platinum spark plugs, I like NGK best and all this items you can get great prices if you shop at Rock auto, Amazon or eBay. The oil I find at Walmart has best price.
Your car and you will appreciate it and you will get better performance and less chance of break down do to heat and friction.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I use nothing but synthetic on all my vehicles, Bikes and cars. I try to find the best one for each application. On bikes I use Motul and on cars I just finished comparing and I find that Castrol Edge gives the best protection in a full synthetic oil. .
Do you mean the best protection for your car individually and if so based on what evidence?.

Or do you mean just based upon the research you have done in general you feel it gives the best protection?

Can you define what you mean by protection and what your OCI is?

Purchasing a 15,000 mile oil and changing it at 5000 miles does not necessarily give you better engine longevity over a lesser oil (Castrol synthetic not the Edge). The engines will last the same IMO with a 5000 mile OCI.

There really are no scientific studies to show which oil is best which performs better etc, far too many variables to compare and about impossible to keep the variables constant when comparing oils. The one best oil is the one that lets you sleep at night. They will all get you to 200,000 miles with reasonable OCIs
 
#10 · (Edited)
Karen, first and foremost, be sure you stick to a good oil change interval (OCI). Good quality conventional oil (Castrol GTX, Valvoline) and a good oil filter (everyone here has an opinion on what that would be. I use Hyundai OEM filters) should not be pushed beyond 5000 miles for what you are doing. With synthetic oils, 7500, maybe 8500 tops.


Maintaining a 5K OCI using Castrol GTX 10W30 and Hyundai 26300 35504 filters on my daughters 2006 Elantra has gotten her to 135K miles with no engine issues. Vehicle still gets the same gas mileage as when we got it, still runs great, and no clicks, ticks, rattles or knocks.


I would NOT recommend the 10W30 weight oil for your engine. It wouldn't hurt it in South Texas, but could give a small decrease in your fuel economy. If you check your owners manual you will see that it is one of the approved weights for your climate, but there are other weights shown that should serve you well.


Congrats on the car! A young lady I have known since she was in kindergarten just graduated college and bought an Accent hatch herself. Nice little cars. We are in Central Texas, so I understand your concern.
 
#12 ·
No, the 2.0L engine in the '06 is not a GDI engine. It is an indication of the mileage you can expect when doing proper maintenance.


Fuel dilution has been an issue with gasoline engines for as long as I can remember, and that is a very long time. It is caused primarily by short trips, cold weather running without full warm up, bad rings, rings not yet seated, poor fuel delivery such as leaking needle valves or failed floats in carbs or fouled fuel injectors which are not delivering fuel in the designed spray pattern and density. When it may occur on new GDI engines is when a small amount of blow by occurs on rings not fully seated due to the very high compression pressures the GDI delivery system allows. And if the engine is allowed to fully warm up and be driven "normally" a little blow by, or dilution of oil, will not matter one bit. The minimal thinning effects of gasoline will vent away and not stay in the oil with normal driving.


There were several cases in the shop back in the 60's where little old ladies would drive their cars to the store, bank, and church for a total of maybe 200 miles a month and end up detonating the oil pan due to gasoline build up in the oil. Was always easy to see this coming; forget the LEVEL of oil in the crankcase, pull the dipstick and it would smell like the engine was running gasoline instead of oil in the crankcase. This is nothing new. The worst thing you can do to an engine is never let it warm up and vent the fuel out of the oil.


I won't argue the conventional vs synthetic lubricant issue. Both, if used as recommended, will protect an engine effectively. In extreme cold the synthetic will perform better. In south, central, even north Texas temperatures will not fall below the 5W20 temperature range. Not even close.


Regarding the "inherent issues of GDI engines". The early adopters of this technology totally were snake bit by the build up of deposits on the back side of the intake valves. Most notably VW, Audi, and especially, BMW had complete disasters with this. Most new GDI engines have resolved much of the build up problem with a very simple trick discussed repeatedly in other forums. Hyundai (and I believe Toyota) both fire a "cold start" secondary pulse on the injectors while the intake valves are open for the first 30 seconds of a cold engine start. Because of the valve/injector positions, this puts a high pressure burst of fuel on the BACK side of the intake valve every time it opens for that first 30 seconds. Assuming the 1.6L GDI shows the same characteristic as the 2.0L GDI, this is identified by a ~1800 RPM idle for the first 30 seconds. Then the engine drops back to the normal cold idle speed of ~1000 RPM. Secondary benefit is that the 30 seconds of double firing of the injectors runs the engine rich which causes the catalytic converters to reach operating temperatures very quickly. This may be where the GDI engines causing dilution issues came from, but here again, only if the engine is not driven after performing this cleaning cycle. We did have a link to the Hyundai technical presentation on this, but I don't have time to go hunt it down.
 
#13 ·
Tried digging around for some articles on the injectors secondary pulse and I'm not having any luck on google. If you get the time could you please advise further on that or at least give me some forums this was widely discussed on?

I'm trying to maintain this engine to the best of my ability so the more I know about it the better.
 
#16 ·
Okay, try to ignore the stiff English in the video as this was probably the English translation of the Korean presentation. Shown is the 2.4L GDI, but the 1.6, 2.0, and 2.4L GDI engines all use the same technology.


I am posting this not just to argue, but thought some of the newer names on here might find interest in just what is happening inside the motor. Pay close attention to the video starting around 1:25 where the audio talks about "split fire injection" and "lighting off the converters". Watch what is happening at the intake valve on the first of the two injection pulses.


theta GDI 2.4 video - Bing video


This second video is for a different audience, but shows the 1.6L GDI. This is more of a car show presentation, but still pretty cool. They don't discuss the cold start function of the GDI but do talk to the many enhancements made over the previous 1.6L non-GDI.


hyundai 1.6L GDI video - Bing video


Enjoy!
 
#14 ·
As for Protection there is plenty of evidence that Dino oil starts to loose its lubricating properties with time so unless you change our every 3,000 miles max and specially driving in hot Texas heat stop and go as a taxi your performance and mileage will suffer.
As for 100% Synthetic I used to own a Subaru legacy and after 20,000 miles I switched to 100% Synthetic and driving exactly same roads in South Florida I got 2-3 more miles per Gallon. That is a huge plus. Now add to that that a quality 100% synthetic oil hold its viscosity much longer and lubricates much better. I have also personally tested several Dino oils in south Florida heat with racing quality manual oil gauge in car and found that the worst oil was Quaker State Deluxe oil and best was Castrol GTX. In test there were 5 different oil and after 2 hours driving some old pressure drops loosing viscosity loosing pressure.
Furthermore Synthetic like Castrol Edge w/Titanium coats the metal parts and gives extra lubricant to all internal parts. This must be also done with a good quality filter, many cost more and say they are the best but when you do some research you find not the best. Specially if you use synthetic oil. It is all up to the person some people are fine using cheap oil and running it for a year and they get 200,000 miles out of the car but I look for performance and mileage and I also want the best protection possible. I recommended the synthetic because in the hot weather and stop and go traffic you need to keep engine parts lubricated with a oil that does not loose its viscosity or lubricating properties this also contributes to less friction and a cooler running engine.
All this is well documented in many professional independent tests for many years now, as for brand there are many other tests comparing. But with out a doubt 100% Synthetic is a superior protection fro your engine.
 
#15 ·
I am yanking your chain, why, becasue you are coming across as way to opinionated on Castrol Edge, like you ae a paid spokesperson for them. As to why Edge is better than Amsoil Signature Series, or Redline or Mobil 1 EP who knows, ( do you have a study to show that as well) and basically, 99.9% of the drivers out there don't care because they all offer great protection and most people never go beyond 7500 OCI. The engines will outlast the rest of the vehicle! As to K&N filters, great flow, okay filtration but I prefer flow over filtration, just my opinion.

I have been using Synthetic since 1992 so just yanking your chain as to why you are so strongly opinionated on this one oil and synthetic.

have a good one.
 
#17 ·
Links didn't work but found the Theta video posted. I've seen the 1.6 GDI many times however. If the Theta's cold start function does apply to the 1.6 then carbon buildup *should* be less than people thought on these particular models. I do run techron through it here and there to make sure the injectors are clean and only run top tier fuel otherwise so if the injectors are split firing like that and hitting the tops of the valves as shown then they should not be bad. We'll see as more and more people get higher mileage on these.

Regardless, I do still wholeheartedly recommended a low ash synthetic to minimize any potential issues.

Thanks for the info.
 
#19 ·
I just finished changing my oil barely 3,000 miles old. But oil was turning dark fast and it was first time using Mobil1 and a Mobil1 oil filter. Below look at picture of filter. I have ran many shops in my younger years Brake World, Midas, Kmart auto center. I have never seen this but I believe this is do to poor oil flow and oil getting baked on top of filter. This filter was not cheap at $6.69.

This time I looked up new oil and filter reviews and videos and when with Castrol Edge 5w30 and a K&N oil filter. I have used Castrol dino oil back when I ran shops but then Synthetic were just comping in to market. Now I use nothing but 100% synthetic but just like computers Technology changes fast and you have to try to keep up.
K&N I use on my bikes always and they are great quality that has never failed me yet. But I will change it in about 5,000 miles and see results unless I notice something strange again. Synthetic oil and a good filter is about $33.00 - $35.00. Including tax so its not that bad.
Now the spark plugs are much more expensive, I originally got denso Iridium because they were readily available at local auto parts and a fair price. I have always been partial to NGK so this time I looked up NGK and they have a new plug that is iridium and Nickel both at about $9.5 each So I ordered it I ordered everything but the oil this time, oil I got at Walmart.
Old denso Iridium plugs again low miles but they were not clean like they should, engine has never ran hot with me and temperature gauge is always same.
Will Just thought I post the picture of the oil filter and see if anyone has seen this on a filter under 3,000 miles. If you have any ideas let me know.
Thanks. I'm always looking to learn.
 

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#21 ·
Thanks for the link but I thought I check it out and look at this link: K&N Air Filter History - KNFilters.com.
K&N is in California and also has facilities in England and Netherland, Nothing in Korea. Apparently someone in that link mistaken or misinformed.

Like I said I read several reviews and K&N came out real well for car filters, I never have used their car filter before I usually use K&N on all the motorcycles I have had in the past. I have never had an issue or heard of anyone having an issue.
Now what I have heard that FRAM has taken some or most of their manufacturing of shore some in Asia or china but not sure since I have not been able to very that.
I know that their Oil filters that used to be king have now dropped.
I made the post because I had purchased the Mobil1 filter thanking it was top quality and maybe it is and I just got a defective one and that happens.
Anyway Filter can be manufactured anywhere as long it is good quality, that what matters.
 
#22 ·
"Disclaimer I sell AMSOIL"

I like this topic. I read my user manual and see that it says to change it every 7500 miles under normal driving conditions. Then I look at Mobil 1 and its normal synthetic is good for 10k. So if I want to use Mobil 1 then I will need a oil filter that will do further than 10k. So like a Mobil 1 extended(15k) , WIX XP(10k) , Royal Purple(15k) , or AMSOIL(15-25k). This is how I think it thru. Im trying not to be bias to what I sell but be open. If that makes sense. It seems like people overlook how important the oil filter is. Clean oil lasts longer. I have had my oil sent out and analyzed using several brands of oils and filters and what I learned is that Changing your oil before its bad and using a quality filter will keep your engine lubed and sludge FREE.

Example: Mobil 1 Synthetic plus Wix XP filter. I have called both Wix and Mobil 1 and they say there products are warrantied for 10k miles. SO I change it at 7.5k-9k. Thants just me.
 
#24 ·
Where are you on warranty on your car? You void the Hyudai engine warranty if you change it longer then 7.5K miles, regardless of what the oil says (if they claim the long OCI caused the failure). - You might have warranties through Amsoil, Mobil 1 or Wix, though.[/QUOTE


For using another oil and having a longer OCI will not void my warranty. Now If my engine has a failure and its due to my oil then that will not be covered. Does that make scene?

"Vehicle manufacturers warrant their products to be free of defect in manufacture or workmanship. All claims must be
covered unless a vehicle manufacturer proves a failure is lubricant-related. The manufacturer may not arbitrarily blame
a failure on the consumer’s practice of changing oil at extended intervals."

Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act
 
#26 ·
I understand and get what you are saying.The nice thing is the car manufacturer will do an oil analysis of the oil and if that comes back bad then you have your claim all ready for you for whatever oil brand you used. Minding that you are keeping good records and receipts of products used. I do use AMSOIL and it is warranty secure. They say "If personnel at a vehicle dealership claim that a vehicle warranty is void simply by using AMSOIL synthetic motor oil, obtain this statement in writing and send a copy to AMSOIL Technical Services. AMSOIL will follow-up with the dealership. -AMSOIL Warranty Specifics" Now the dealership I got it at did not say that so I am taking that risk and if something happens you guys will be the first to know. I should change my name to GuineaPigWatson. :)
 
#27 ·
Again, I am getting a bit into semantics here, but words matter - especially if we are talking about warranty and lawsuits and court cases ...

"If personnel at a vehicle dealership claim that a vehicle warranty is void simply by using AMSOIL synthetic motor oil, obtain this statement in writing and send a copy to AMSOIL Technical Services. AMSOIL will follow-up with the dealership. -AMSOIL Warranty Specifics"
Right, but the dealer is NOT going to claim the warranty is void simply b/c you used AMSOIL synthetic motor oil, the dealer is going to claim the warranty is void b/c you followed a 10K OCI instead of the proscribed 7.5K OCI, and I'm not sure if AMSOIL Warranty department is going to cover that either ...
 
#28 ·
Read the Amsoil warranty very closely, lots of loopholes in it, like a normally performing engine, lots open to interpretation. I have never heard of anyone getting an engine replaced under any of these oil company warranties, too many loopholes and of course, oil is rarely the cause of engine failure, but engine failure is more likely due to not changing the oil at a reasonable interval. I am still an Amsoil dealer, don't use it anymore as too many others on the market at a much more reasonable price and Hyundai has no OCIs over 7,500 miles and no manufacturers have them over 10,000 to the best of my knowledge. Now when I was using Amsoil I did go up to 15,000 on the kids cars but nothing under warranty.
Asusming that the dealer will take a sample if the engineis blown is assuming too much, they will deny if you cannot show them OCIs within the warranty specs and then you can have your fun with Mobil 1 or Amsoil or QS, all these are not worth the paper they are printed on because oil never causes engine failure, failure to change it does! You will get an engine replaced with Hyundai if you have the proof,(regardless of what casued the engine to fail, you will not with the others because oil was not the cause, guarantee it!

So engine fails but not due to oil, Hyundai will replace if you can show proof of changes (even if not related to the casue of failure), oil companies will not. Hyundai will deny based on extended OCIs even though the oil was not the cause because you violated the warranty requirements. Obviously for engine failures only.
 
#29 ·
and no manufacturers have them over 10,000 to the best of my knowledge.
BMW Revises Recommended Oil Change Intervals to 10,000 Miles for 2014+ Models

BMW had 15K OCI's prior to 2014 IF supported by the analysis from the oil life monitor OLM (and cynically, this is also while BMW was providing free maintenance including oil changes for the first 4 years of ownership).

Also - Toyota has 10K OCI's for USA cars that shipped with 0W20 oil originally. (And cynically, in the USA Toyota includes ToyotaCare and free oil changes for the first 2-years or 20K miles. In Canada, there is no ToyotaCare and they recommend 10 Km OCI's for the same engines and models, regardless of factory fill.)
 
#30 ·
I came across this years ago on silveradosierra forums. This was a conversation when a guys asked about voiding his warranty on a new truck. I would link it but my account is only 1 day old so this forum will not let me.

"You also have the Federal Trade Commission. Keep in mind, that it has to be PROVEN that the oil (or third party part for that matter) caused the damage. That is going to be tough hurdle for any OEM to overcome. They can't just deny warranty claim because something is not "approved". Amsoil is more than "equivalent" to any spec'd and approved oil, and the owners manual (at least the one for my 2013) says "dexos or equivalent" Amsoil does claim on it's site that they will back up any issue that can be shown was caused by their product.

I have dealt with warranty issues on engines that, alone, cost more than most of our pickups. In several decades of commercial engine use, as well as personal vehicles, I have never had a OEM ask what oil I was using! I may have volunteered the information on my own, but they didn't seem to worry about it. And no OEM ever asked. I think it is a case of an enlarged paranoia gland to worry that something like Amsoil would be an issue when it comes to a warranty problem. If you were using Joe's Oil that is sold at the local big lots close out store, then you might have something to worry about. Amsoil, Schaeffer, Royal Purple, Red Line, ad nauseam, all have a vested interest that their products meet the needs of the consumers who buy them. They are not going to put out a substandard oil, or they would risk loosing their entire business. All it takes, especially with the internet, is a couple of cases of PROVEN failures due to their products, and they might as well put a FOR SALE sign on the warehouse."


"Here's my take--If you have chosen a premium synthetic or semi-synthetic, and are careful about selecting the appropriate OCI for your use and conditions, you are light years ahead of most drivers. And, if using a premium synthetic oil, you should expect maximum engine life. I've not heard of a single oil, dexos or not, that was the primary cause of engine failure. Sludged up engines are almost always the result of owner neglect or abuse.I love my Amsoil, because it supports our forum sponsor, and it's good stuff. However, I'd have no issue with Valvoline synpower, M1 EP, or Castrol Syn either."

....I agree that with choosing a good oil and filter with appropriate OCI your better off than other drivers. This is my point of view and I dont judge a person for doing it differently.
 
#31 ·
I think you are taking this a bit too personally.

Read CAREFULLY what we are saying ...

Nobody is saying that AMSOIL is bad oil.

Nobody is saying that Hyundai might deny your warranty for using AMSOIL.

Lots of us are saying the Hyundai quite likely WILL deny your warranty for using 10K OCI's with AMSOIL or any other oil. We are NOT saying that the 10K OCI will be the cause of the failure. We are not saying that Hyundai will LEGALLY deny your warranty for using the 10K OCI - but if they deny the warranty, even if they can't legally do so, it is an inconvenience to fight them in court until you eventually win.

BTW - I haven't had a warranty claim with Hyundai, but I've heard they are tougher on warranty claims than many manufacturers. Cases I have heard about:

- Peeling steering wheels - The MD Elantra had an issue with it. It was reported on here and many members got it fixed with no problem under warranty. A few members were told it was not covered until they mentioned the thread on here, and then got it covered. A few members were told it was only covered one time until they showed that other members one here had received multiple warranty replacements.
- Sonata Seat Trim - Similar situation. Owner was somewhere around 275-300 pounds and supposedly drug his body across the trim getting in and out of the car. Hyundai claimed they covered the replacement once as a courtesy, but would not cover a second replacement even though the car was under warranty still.
- LED's and Cruise Control. One member had a cruise control malfunction. I believe Hyundai blamed LED taillight bulbs. He put OEM bulbs back and still had the problem, but they wouldn't cover it. He couldn't get it repaired under warranty at another dealer b/c there is a not in the records that the warranty was denied due to LED's. (FWIW, my 2002 Focus cruise would not work with LED's in the brake lights without load resistors. I added them to my 2016, so I'm not overly concerned about this).
- HID's One member added HID Headlights. The $1400 ECM failed and Hyundai blamed the HIDs. I heard he sued and eventually got them to re-imburse him. I also heard this might be an urban-legend, wives tale ...
 
#32 ·
Let me back peddle a bit, Sorry if I was coming across harsh or defensive. Looks like I was coming across wrong. I was not trying to defend AMSOIL but trying to make the point that Hyundai, or any other car maker, cant void your warranty based on oil brand and OCI. Im looking at my warranty now and it says nothing to that affect. Looks like we disagree on that point. And thats fine. I was not trying to convince anyone, I was trying to show how I came to that conclusion. I hope this clears up some misunderstanding on what I was trying to get across. I was using AMSOIL and their warranty only because im more familiar with it. Like the post before about loopholes in warranties. All warranties have vague wording. I think we beat this thing dead. People can now read this post and make up there own minds. Again I was just trying to show my perspective on this whole thing. Sorry if I was coming across harsh or defensive.
 
#33 ·
Let me back peddle a bit, Sorry if I was coming across harsh or defensive. Looks like I was coming across wrong.
A little, but I want to make it clear I was not trying to get personal - I am trying to point out what might or might not give you warranty claim issues and try to help you to avoid that.

I was not trying to defend AMSOIL but trying to make the point that Hyundai, or any other car maker, cant void your warranty based on oil brand and OCI. Im looking at my warranty now and it says nothing to that affect. Looks like we disagree on that point.
Yes, we do. They CAN void your warranty for either. From the 2016 Owner's manual, page 7-3, 361 electronic:

You should retain documents that show
proper maintenance has been performed
on your vehicle in accordance with the
scheduled maintenance service charts
shown on the following pages. You need
this information to establish your compliance
with the servicing and maintenance
requirements of your vehicle warranties.

Detailed warranty information is provided
in your Owner’s Handbook & Warranty
Information booklet.
Repairs and adjustments required as a
result of improper maintenance or a lack
of required maintenance are not covered.
We recommend you have your vehicle
maintained and repaired by an authorized
HYUNDAI dealer. An authorized
HYUNDAI dealer meets HYUNDAI’s high
service quality standards and receives
technical support from HYUNDAI in
order to provide you with a high level of
service satisfaction.

Now, as far as oil brand: AMSOIL is good oil, I didn't mean it wasn't, but the OM says I have to use API Service SL or better (SM, unless I can't find SM). No worries about this with AMSOIL, unless it is 10-years old stock. I've never heard of it happening, I've never heard of a dealer asking, but if I was stupid enough to tell the dealer: "I found two 55-gallon drums of 20-year old Castrol API SF 20W-50 oil and I've used that every oil change since I bought the car, but I'm sure that has nothing to do with the engine running sluggish" they probably WOULD void any warranty claim on the engine - although TECHNICALLY, they would have to prove that the 20W50 oil CAUSED the problem and in reality it probably wouldn't have, and I MIGHT when it court - although it might be arbitration and tough to prove either way.

OTOH, I have heard of them saying "Okay, you changed the oil at 7.5K and 22.5K and 30K and 37.5K ... Wait - where's the receipt for 15K? How do we know you didn't miss that service and go 15K miles between the first and second oil change to look like you didn't? Denied until you show us a receipt for the 15K oil change."
 
#34 ·
Yep not the oil it is simply a matter of changing it withing the warranty schedule, if not , denied regardless of cause or oil and I think they are correct. We purchased the vehicles knowing those requirements, if we choose to ignore them we may pay the consequences.
 
#35 ·
In reality, that is what it comes down to.

In theory, it is a bit more complicated.

Chris Watson - (I think unitentionally) posted something inaccurate in reply #24:

"Vehicle manufacturers warrant their products to be free of defect in manufacture or workmanship. All claims must be
covered unless a vehicle manufacturer proves a failure is lubricant-related. The manufacturer may not arbitrarily blame
a failure on the consumer’s practice of changing oil at extended intervals.
"

Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act


https://www.mlmlaw.com/library/guides/ftc/warranties/undermag.htm

Regarding Magnuson-Moss - there are two conditions that affect oil changes:

- Use of aftermarket parts/oil. This is pretty well covered and understood under the tie-in sales provision of the law. Hyundai can't REQUIRE you to use their filters or oil, unless they provide you the filters free of charge. Now, they can say that the aftermarket filter/oil did not meet their quality standards, but they technically have to PROVE the aftermarket part caused the failure. (There's a bit of legal cat and mouse here. On the one hand, if Hyundai says they are convinced the Fram filter you used caused your engine to fail, it's fairly difficult for you as the consumer to prove that the engine failed for causes totally unrelated to the Fram filter and they owe you a new engine. OTOH, typically Hyundai doesn't usually want the publicity of saying they won't pay for an engine b/c you used a $3 filter instead of their $6 one, nor do they typically want Fram's lawyers suing them for loss of revenue from declining sales b/c nobody will buy a Fram filter to use in a Hyundai ever again.) (I'm running a Fram filter right now, so I picked this example.

- Not following the specified maintenance interval. I really don't think MMWA covers this. The Act basically says the warranty has to clearly say what is covered and for how long and what is required to maintain coverage. IANAL, but my interpretation is the manufacturer can require you to change the oil every 500 miles to maintain coverage if they so choose to. They just will lose sales b/c their cars are more expensive to maintain. I do not see any provision in the act that says the manufacturer has to PROVE that failure to change the oil at the specified interval caused the failure. Tie-in sales are really a stretch here - as the oil change doesn't have to be done at the dealer, so your only argument is that the corporation set a low 7500 mile OCI when 15K would have worked b/c maybe 50-60% of owners will come back to the dealer even though they don't have to, so it generates more money for the dealer. And as above - even if they DID have to prove that the longer OCI caused the failure - if they claim you should have changed it at 7,500K miles and they aren't covering it b/c you didn't, it is hard to prove that the longer OCI did NOT contribute to the failure, and (from my interpretation of the MMWA), you would likely lose this case.

All that said and done -

Hyundai's OCI is 7500 miles and the PT warranty is 10-years or 100K miles for the original owner. If I assume a $50 oil change (I can diy, or do dino for around $20), I will spend $666 (the devil number) in oil changes over the warranty period. (If I drive less than 10K miles a year, I will spend less b/c the warranty will expire on calendar time).

For the turbos - let's assume a 5K oci (I think it is specified something like 3750 for the first oil change and then every 5K after that in the OM), so $1000 for oil changes.

Toyota has a 10K OCI, so only $500 for the 100K interval, but their PT warranty is only 5-years or 60K, so only $300 for the warranty period.

If we use your AMSOIL 15K interval with Hyundai non-turbo - the cost is $333. So we are talking about a savings of $333 over 100K miles or roughly $30 per year to risk voiding any warranty on the engine.

Again - I am not telling you that you CAN'T run a 15K OCI, the oil and the engine will likely handle it. I just want you to know that if you choose to do so and have an engine failure, Hyundai (from what I can tell, properly and legally) will most likely NOT cover it under warranty.
 
#36 ·
Tiger-Heli;5027409 - Not following the specified maintenance interval. I really don't think MMWA covers this. The Act basically says the warranty has to clearly say what is covered and for how long and what is required to maintain coverage. IANAL said:
Agree 100% Could not find that language in the Act. Even the new Mobil 1 oil says states one should follow the manufacturer's recommendations for oil change intervals. Amsoil does not state this on their containers. Like I stated before, oil is rarely if ever the cause of failure and extremely difficult to prove so their warranty is sort of useless. However, it is in writing to change the oil every 7500 on Hyundais to keep the warranty intact. They (hyundai) would simply state that the maintenance was not done and deny. My opinion.
 
#37 ·
After calling Hyundai Warranty department yesterday I am more than willing to say your correct guys. However he did say when using a full synthetic you can do longer intervals. ***Big disclaimer... He did say that is not in writing and whatever you do KEEP GOOD RECORDS!!!*** SO that being said I choose still to run a Yearly oil change. And if I file a claim I will reply back on this forum and let you know how it goes.

I found this to be a very informed group to chat with.
 
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