Dreaded P0420 code.... - Page 2 - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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I'm wondering if it is the converter though what made it go so quickly? Converters can be expensive and I don't want to replace it then the same thing happen shortly after. I'm sitting in the car waiting for it warm up right now. I had another thread about smelling coolant and the coolant being low before now I really am worried it might be something like a blown head gasket. Funny because I was planning yesterday to go get the radiator test kit but everything else happened and didn't get to. Probaly today.

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:05 AM
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Cats can fail, not as rare and some might think. I've only had to replace 1 in 35 years, and that was around 88K miles while other cars ran 200K and never an issue.

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:31 AM
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Took a quick net search, only the front is available aftermarket, 400 bucks, didn't know that New York followed California with extra strict emissions. Forgot all about some odd 14,000 container ships coming into this country, was a a harbor with just a few of them, darn near choked to death with all that black smoke.

Air quality is really bad a major airports, those jets have to take off at 100% power and land at 95%.

While its legal to advertise and sell cat bypass kits, if you are caught installing one, a $40,000,00 fine by the EPA for your little 1.6L engine. Next will be cats for our lawn mowers.

Present emission systems are worthless when cold, one key reason we are stuck with winter gas. Fuel economy drops 25%, done by the calendar, even had 70*F days this last fall, but winter gas.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicholasD View Post
Took a quick net search, only the front is available aftermarket, 400 bucks, didn't know that New York followed California with extra strict emissions. Forgot all about some odd 14,000 container ships coming into this country, was a a harbor with just a few of them, darn near choked to death with all that black smoke.

The secondary cat is also available, including the NY variety. Bolt in between $150-$190. Weld in around $100. For the primary, if your heat shield is transferable, under $400. With heat shield around $450. These are Walker units.


First thing to do is get a visual on what is there, parts listing don't always match up.

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Hooked up 2 Bluetooth readers. BlueDriver & OBDLinx, I'm more familiar with OBDLinx so I got some info from that. Car was at operating temp. and I touched the accelerator up to about 2500 RPMs for good measure. The first time I took a reading it showed STFT bank 1 Sensor 1 going steadily up and down and pretty equal on the wavelengths. Sensor 2 was flat lined. I know somewhere it said value -0.08% maybe it was sensor 2 flatlining there at that value. Then the second time I took a reading sensor was was erratic. Staying at one value then going to some regular wavelengths then staying at a value again for a bit, then spiking up above the base line then below the baseline then some wavelengths... It wasn't like before it was acting inconsistent to me. What do you think?

Also Heated Catalyst was the failure, the min. Value is 100 and it was at 97. There was also a misfire that had been recorded in bank 4 but it didn't throw a code this was just noted in the features somewhere. It said Value 1 for that. All the others were 0. Just mentioning this if it helps at all. I'm at a loss here.

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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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I touched the accelerator then let it idle again after the idle was reading around 836 then took the graph readings....

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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I checked under the hood and I see one cat right after the engine and in front of the firewall there was one sensor before and after which can be seen from the top view of the engine, behind that was a flex pipe. I don't recall seeing anymore cats under the car. But I haven't really looked either. I do recall the exhaust looking in good shape when I changed the oil.

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:39 AM
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The second cat has no purpose OBDII wise and can be completely removed with no effect. Misfires are what kills cats.

With a warm engine and cruising on the highway the second O2 should be reading a fairly steady value that is near, but under the peak value seen for the first O2.

If the second O2 mirrors the first O2 then the cat is bad.

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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Took it to a mechanic I deliver parts to from Advance and they said they don't deal with 420 codes cause they are such a pain. This is a mom and pop shop so I get it. She cleared the code and said see how long it takes to come back then take it to the dealer if I want. We took the car on about a 40 mile trip and my dad used his code reader to graph the O2 sensors. He said the one after the cat would not mirror the first but did have some activity but then would flatline at times then go back to activity. I didn't get to see the graph I was driving. He thinks I should try replacing the second O2 sensor first if I do anything. The light hasn't come back yet but I'm not expecting it not to. I know it will again.

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 08:01 PM
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I too recommend replacing the O2 sensor before replacing a cat. The O2 sensors take a lot of abuse being in the exhaust stream.

Once warmed up, the system is a closed loop control. Any part of the loop messes with the whole loop. Most systems will assume that the O2 sensor is correct and go from there. So unless the O2 sensor completely croaks in an obvious way the computer will fault something else.

That doesn't mean that other parts don't fail.
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