Have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 140,000 miles stalled out while driving and won't restart. Error codes are P0011, P0012, P0021, P0026, and P0028. Each code gives symptoms of rough idle, hard starting, stalling, but non of them give an issue of no start as in cracks over but does not fire or even act like it might run. Given the codes the only possibility in my mind might be the ECM that would not allow the vehicle to start. What are your thoughts?
DTC point to both OCV (kinda unusual for both at same time) and circiut faults
Be interested if oil filter correct Hyundai part, the stem at filter has end intact with small o-ring,, not a "mud" motor for oil changes.. that the quick simple checks
From there be concerned with wiring for the OCV's, and monitor timing values via GDS for desired and actual cam time values
Yes, I thought that was interesting myself both adavanced and retarded timing. What does "mud" motor for oil changes mean? Sorry not up on some of the jargon. Also what is GDS?
You may have issues with the CVVT, OCV
But, I don't believe it is the main cause of this crank, no start condition
First check all the fuses with a test light
Then check spark at the plugs, Fuel pump priming, Injector signal, ...
Sticking IAC valve or EGR.
You know the basics??
I do know some of the basics but probably not so much on current models with more of the electronics. Checked oil filter for correct replacement, appeared to be correct but not sure of the small Oring that was mentioned. Did not see one or see where one might go. Checked fuses by sight but did not test them for continuity. Will do that next. Checked connections on sensors, took out cam sensor on bank one and had some build up on it and cleaned it, will do the same to the other one. Cannot get to either oil control valves without removing the intake. Is removing the intake a major job as it looks, or not so bad? Have not been able to hear fuel pump, but may be to noisy around me to hear, traffic driving by. Would a fuel pump that died throw a code or not? I am kind of with avisitor that it seems to be something more than what the codes are showing since their was no indications of rough idle, stalling, history. Seemed to run fine and just died and wouldn't restart. Will test connection on fuel pump for power. Is the access to the fuel pump under the back seat?
Fuses can be tested while in circuit by using a test light
There are two test points on the fuse. One on each side of the filament that acts as the fuse.
Checking each side while the power is turned on should show both sides with power
If one side has power and the other does not then the fuse is blown
Almost all the fuses can be checked this way which makes it faster than pulling then out and checking continuity
There are two fuse boxes. One in the engine bay and the other in the passenger cabin.
The fuel pump should be accessible under the back seat.
Remember to check if it runs when the key is first turned to the on position
If not then check fuel pump relay. Usually found in the engine bay fuse box
Swap with another relay in the box and test.
You can also test by spraying starter fluid into the in take port or throttle body
(note: avoid spraying MAF sensor if you have one)
If you do check the fuel pump then don't forget to check to see if it is receiving power and ground.
I think Autospark has very good suggestions on how to determine if it is an electrical issue.
Ok, checked the relay by switching relays between fuel pump and horn. Still no noise at fuel pump and horn worked with the fuel pump relay. Also disconnected fuel line at fuel rail and turned on key, no fuel. So how do I test power back at the pump and ground. There are two electrical lines at the pump one that is orange and circular and the other one is flat with kind of a flex boot on the end which I am assuming is the power source. Also not sure how to test the ground.
Okay, we know the relay is good.
Next is to see if there is a control signal to turn on the fuel pump
Or use a bypass test to see if you can turn on the fuel pump
Here is a video that can help you understand testing the relay pins
It is for a GM. But, it should you you an idea of testing relays and fuel pump control by the ECU
Check it out
Now you should be able to use a paper clip and bypass the relay and turn on the fuel pump
If the fuel pump doesn't turn on then chase the fuel pump.
But, for now see if you can get the fuel pump to work.
From what I've read it sounds like the fuel pump isn't even priming the rail so the first thing you want to do is remove the pump relay, switch the ignition on and measure the voltage at each of the 4 terminals on the relay socket in the fusebox. Make sure 2 of the terminals have 12V. Once you've confirmed that, do the relay bypass test by using a short link wire (paper clip, split pin) to bridge the two terminals on the relay socket as shown below.
Let us know how you get on with that test and we can decide where to go next.
Ok, I tested for power at fuse box with a test light, do not have a test meter handy, and have constant power on pin 30 and power on pin 85 only with the key on. Wasn't sure which pins to jump until logging back in. So I tested for power at the pump on the five pin plug and found no power source. I am guessing I need to put in the jump wire to find power at the pump?
Did you hear the pump running with the link in place?
Did you recheck for fuel at the rail?
You checked the pump power supply, but what about the ground?
Also if we have solved this problem am also going to need to address the codes. I know my daughter did not keep up on timely oil changes that I am sure is causing the codes related to the cvvt and ocv. Going to need to clean up this engine on the inside. I was planning on using sea foam about one ounce per quart and run it for about half an hour before I change the oil. Will need some ongoing cleaning so what do you recommend to add to the oil to maintain some extra duty cleaning other than changing the oil every 2000 miles for a while?
Not sure of how it would play with cvvt and ocv, but for "old school" engines I've used Dupont Motor Flush (one quart added to crankcase, let is idle for 10 minutes or so and drain thoroughly). I've also heard of adding diesel or ATF and letting it idle (don't run under load) and then drain.
Again, my experience is with old American iron.....YMMV.
Personally, I'd test the ground by doing a voltage drop test.
With the relay link in place and the tank harness connector plugged in, connect the black probe of you voltmeter to battery neg (or a KNOWN good ground) and back probe the red into the pump ground terminal on the tank connector. If the pump ground is good you should have < 0.5V (500mV).
Yes, ground checked out, and will be replacing the pump next chance I get. Thanks guys for your help and bringing me up to date on current (as in present day also as in electrical) testing skills. Also have had issues with an Elantra that I have had in the shop umteen times and not able to resolve, but I will post that under a new heading. May be talking to you again in the near future. Thanks again guys.
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