I can't seem to edit and add on to the above thread post so I guess I will try again in a new post.
Above is the layout of the passenger side of a 2009 Sonata with dual air. The glove box will need to be emptied and then removed. After that the kick plate cover will be removed. I was unable to determine how to remove the simulated wood trim or the rear of the glove frame. That might have given me more access but no one seems to address this. In any event I was able to change the control actuator although access is tight.
Above are the tools you will need. Not many. The 10mm socket will be used to disconnect the battery. The small screwdrivers and ratchet will barely fit. Some of this will have to be done by feel as the actuator is screwed to the center hvac box and way up in there.
Disconnect the battery. You will want to reconnect it a couple of times to check operation of parts when we get to that. It is recommended that you disconnect the battery so there are no short and some folks warn about airbags possibly being set off. Don't know if that is possible but I didn't want that happening.
After the glove box is emptied, pull the front edge of the rubber stops out just a bit and pull the part inward toward the center of the glove box. There are two, one on each side. They are proned to wanting to jump back into place...if so, just pull them out again until you can let the box forward a bit. At some point the strut on the right side will stop forward movement of the box.
Next you will pull the lower end of the strut arm off of the pin provided for it. It slips off easily. Once this is done the box can be lowered all the way down. You will remove these parts and lower to box in this same manner to access the rectangular door that encloses the hvac filter. This filter should be changed about every year as it will get pretty dirty.
You will now want to entirely remove the glove box. There are only two black plastic pins that hold it to the frame. Slide them all the way out while supporting the box. Once they are out the bow will be free of the dash. Set it in a safe place like the back seat. Don't lose the pins, put them in a safe place. Cup holder for example.
Next you will want to remove the kick plate cover. This is held in place by two screws. At the firewall end there is simply a tongue that fits in a steel slot, pictured later. So when reassembling the piece, you fit the tongue into the slot and then screw the edge under the glove box to the frame.
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With glove box and kick plate out of the way this is what you will see. No need to remove the blower motor or disconnect the wires you see. There is one screw holding the end of the floor duct in place. You will need to remove it with a phillips head screwdriver. you will not be able to remove the piece of duct work which is really in the way but you will be able to wiggle it around a bit. The arrows point to the various areas that you will either reach into, shine a light into or try to see into when unsnapping the wiring harness and removing the three screws that hold the device in place. Do not attempt to remove the steel control rod coming from the device. It stays where it is on both ends.
In the above picture you can see the slot the tongue on the kick plate fits into and the location of the two screws that hold in place are located.
You will be able to see the part by looking through the frame at the top left corner but you won't be able to get any access through this area. My camera lense fits....that is all. You can see the wiring harness that will need to be disconnected. That is the only wiring that you will need to remove.
Pictured above is the part we are going after. Don't be fooled thinking this is a wide open area. Wide open for my camera and trial and error shooting. It is about large enough for one hand and a small screw driver. There are three screws that need to be removed and the wiring harness unsnapped. One screw is hidden behind the floor duct. Good luck on getting a screwdriver on it. You will need a short handled one for all of this and you will have to wiggle the duct work until you can sort of angle in on the rearward screw. Getting it back in is even trickier....keep trying, you can get it.
Press down on the white button to release the wiring. While it will be tempting to pull on the wiring, don't. Those wires are small. You are doing this to save money...right. If not, you might as well pay the dealer a bunch of money to install it. the part cost about $82 at NAPA.
This is what the part looks like on the side that will be exposed to you. This side faces the passenger side. Note where the three screws are located that need to be removed. Don't remove the others as they hold the motor in place. Once you get this part out you will want to reconnect it to the wiring harness, let it hang down and test one more time to determine that the guide is not rotating. You will also want to snap in the new part and test to make sure it works before installing. If the new one doesn't work you will have to check to see that you didn't miss a bad fuse.
This is what the inside of the motor and gears looks like. Everything looks great. It just doesn't run, remove some of the grease so you can use it to lubricate your new part that moves the pin around. You can pull up on the pin area and the motor and remove it entirely, I spun the motor...couldn't see any hot spots, everything looked like new....still wouldn't run. Nothing that I could see that could be fixed.
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Pictured above is the backsides of the old part and the new part. The pin and wheel it is attached to remain attached to the inner doors inside the center hvac. When reassembling the part onto the havc all you have to do is make sure the pin fits in the track and that the three screws line up for tightening. Then attach the wiring. Looking at the new part I received with the correct crossover numbers....does anyone see a problem? Yepper, the new blue part is reversed from the old part. These are Korean made parts with Hyundai numbers on them. My solution. The yellow and blue parts snap off, so I snapped the yellow on onto the new actuator and it worked fine. I have no idea what the other one fits. The guys at NAPA checked the numbers. Everything was fine....except the part. They ordered a new one but I didn't have any issues after snapping the old part onto the new actuator. They will only snap on in one position. And I had the blue one all lubed and ready to go until I noticed this.
This what you want to see when you connect the part and run the temp control up and down. You will want to see the part rotate. My old one would not move at all. Tighten in the new part maing sure the pin is in the track, snap on the wiring harness, insert the kickplate tongue in the slot provided for it, attach with two screws.
Install the glove box by positioning, insert the two black pins, reconnect the strut, slide the box forward so that the rubber stop will pop back in flush with inside of the box. Refill the glove box and reconnect the battery. Re set the clock and you should be good to go. Hwy61
