How to change rear shocks on 06 sonata gls 2.4 - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
 
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#1 Old 04-10-2013, 02:33 PM
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Talking How to change rear shocks on 06 sonata gls 2.4

After165K miles on the original struts and shocks there absolutely beat. Just ordered new kybs all around. im having the fronts done at a shop because it is a little more involved and there only charging me $100 to do it but id like to do the rear shocks myself to save a little money. Im wondering if anyone who has knowledge of the subject could post step by step instuctions or diagrams on how to complete the job and if its not too much to ask a list of tools required.

Thanks in advance.
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#2 Old 04-10-2013, 02:57 PM
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very easy to do, sorry dont have instructions.
But when i did mine, the rear shocks were the ONLY thing i couldnt do myself. As they were seized or rusted onto the stud their supposed to slide on to.
The bottom of shock has a hole, so it will slide onto a stud, then you tightn down the nut on the stud so shock dont slide off.
Well i got the nut off but the shock would not slide off and the garage had to torch them out and use an air chisle to force them off.

Now im sure you dont have that much of a rust issue in NV but just something to watch out for
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#3 Old 04-10-2013, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CNYSonata3.3 View Post
very easy to do, sorry dont have instructions.
But when i did mine, the rear shocks were the ONLY thing i couldnt do myself. As they were seized or rusted onto the stud their supposed to slide on to.
The bottom of shock has a hole, so it will slide onto a stud, then you tightn down the nut on the stud so shock dont slide off.
Well i got the nut off but the shock would not slide off and the garage had to torch them out and use an air chisle to force them off.

Now im sure you dont have that much of a rust issue in NV but just something to watch out for

Thanks for the advise hopefully they will slipe off the bottom pins it was a midwest car most of its life but it has very little rust but ive read people having to torch them off. How do you get the top mounts off do you have to go through the trunk?
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#4 Old 04-11-2013, 07:38 AM
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PB Blaster WILL be your friend. Spray all bolts, let them sit for hr or so. And you will need the same size sockets or one socket and a adjustable wrench because you will hit a point where you think you are unscrewing but its actually turning the entire screw including the nut on the other end.

Rear was a BREEZE...Front...a different story.
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#5 Old 04-11-2013, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by bds120 View Post
PB Blaster WILL be your friend. Spray all bolts, let them sit for hr or so. And you will need the same size sockets or one socket and a adjustable wrench because you will hit a point where you think you are unscrewing but its actually turning the entire screw including the nut on the other end.

Rear was a BREEZE...Front...a different story.
Just got the fronts put it by a shop now about to do the rear where is the top nut located? In the strut tower inside the trunk im assuming?
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#6 Old 08-26-2013, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNYSonata3.3 View Post
very easy to do, sorry dont have instructions.
But when i did mine, the rear shocks were the ONLY thing i couldnt do myself. As they were seized or rusted onto the stud their supposed to slide on to.
The bottom of shock has a hole, so it will slide onto a stud, then you tightn down the nut on the stud so shock dont slide off.
Well i got the nut off but the shock would not slide off and the garage had to torch them out and use an air chisle to force them off.

Now im sure you dont have that much of a rust issue in NV but just something to watch out for
I'm in the middle of trying to change mine out and dealing with the same seized or rusted issue. Started cutting on one shock assembly and didn't want to take it to shop which I wish I had not done. Now i'm left with inner sleeve of shock still seized to shaft and I guess i'll going to have to notch this sleeve and buy an air chisel since i'm not experienced with using a torch on my car and really don't want to kill me or fry the brake line. the other side will definitely go to the shop.
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#7 Old 08-26-2013, 10:02 PM
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Definite shade tree mechanic here. The fronts really where not hard at all. Biggest issue was getting a good spring compressor. The rears where another matter. The top mount is two bolts accessed from the wheel well. Then the top mount is removed after the shock is free from the car. The bottom stud was a real bear. Finally ended up cutting the outer metal ring of the shock and then the rubber and then the inner sleeve. I had to cut the inner sleeve almost it's entire length and split it with a hammer and chisel. Good luck!
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#8 Old 08-28-2013, 06:02 PM
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Thanks man, will be on it tomorrow. I've been really busy lately plus a little rain and no garage. Its really nice to be able to get input where almost always someone's been where you are and can help you out.
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#9 Old 03-24-2014, 09:00 PM
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A couple issues about 2006 Hyundai Shocks/Struts.

1. I am planning on trying to change the rear shocks myself. I found these on EBay and would like feedback.

New 2 Rear TSB Shocks Hyundai Sonata 2006 2007 New 55305 3K251DQQH | eBay

2. Last June, we had the front struts replaced. At the beginning of this year we started hearing a lot of squeaking/creaking coming from the front end when we would go over bumps, (speed bumps, big bumps in the road, like in construction zones or where road meets bridges, etc.). I took it back to the same shop in late Jan and again last week. They said they have thoroughly checked out the front end and everything is OK. The struts are still good, no bushings going bad, no other front-end parts bad. Anyone know what might be the cause of this?
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#10 Old 03-25-2014, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuiGonJohn View Post
2. Last June, we had the front struts replaced. At the beginning of this year we started hearing a lot of squeaking/creaking coming from the front end when we would go over bumps, (speed bumps, big bumps in the road, like in construction zones or where road meets bridges, etc.). I took it back to the same shop in late Jan and again last week. They said they have thoroughly checked out the front end and everything is OK. The struts are still good, no bushings going bad, no other front-end parts bad. Anyone know what might be the cause of this?
Most likely your upper control arms and the attached upper ball joint. A way to test this is 1) grease your upper ball joints first, take it for a drive and see if the noise becomes less or disappears. If it disappears, then you know it's the upper ball joint. 2) if 1 does not work out, grease the upper control arm bushings and check if the noise becomes less or disappears

Either way, I recommend changing the entire upper control arm because it comes with the bushings and upper ball joint, makes your install much easier.
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