Reset Airbag Light Myself? - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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#1 Old 12-05-2010, 09:54 AM
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zirconx
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I will be installing a remote starter soon. I plan on taking the seat out because its 10x easier to work under the dash that way, and I plan to install a seat heater then too.

So I will be testing the remote start while the seat is still out. I'm positive this will trigger the airbag light. When I did this in a Ford Taurus, the airbag light went out after I hooked the seat back up. Will this happen in the sonata or will it be stuck on? In googleing this I found a lot of people that had airing lights come on in their sonata, and sometimes jigling the wires under the seat made the light go back out. So it sounds like if everything is put back, the light might go back out on its own?

The car is under warranty so the dealer might turn it off for me too, but I don't really want to do that since its my own fault for triggering it.

Thanks.
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#2 Old 12-05-2010, 11:45 AM
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Based on my experience, if you disconnect anything dealing with the SRS and then turn the car on (powering the ECU), it will certainty turn on the lite. Once on, it will stay on forever until manually turned off. Some independent shops have the tool to turn it off, but they generally want a half hour labor to do it. If you are still on warranty, I would think you could get the dealer to turn it off. It takes about 2 minutes.

QUOTE (zirconx @ Dec 5 2010, 10:54 AM)
Quote:
I will be installing a remote starter soon. I plan on taking the seat out because its 10x easier to work under the dash that way, and I plan to install a seat heater then too.

So I will be testing the remote start while the seat is still out. I'm positive this will trigger the airbag light. When I did this in a Ford Taurus, the airbag light went out after I hooked the seat back up. Will this happen in the sonata or will it be stuck on? In googleing this I found a lot of people that had airing lights come on in their sonata, and sometimes jigling the wires under the seat made the light go back out. So it sounds like if everything is put back, the light might go back out on its own?

The car is under warranty so the dealer might turn it off for me too, but I don't really want to do that since its my own fault for triggering it.

Thanks.
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#3 Old 12-05-2010, 11:00 PM
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I've installed a remote starter and never removed the seats; I just made use of the seat adjuster (all the way back, all the way forward) and it worked fine. Under the dash is the wrong place to be thinking about. You need access to the body control module, which lives under the center console. Rasslin' the center console out is a bit daunting but it can be done. Once you have it out you have access to every wire you need to install a remote starter.

This doesn't solve the heated seats issue, though. I never installed bun warmers on KC.

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#4 Old 12-06-2010, 12:33 PM
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QUOTE (Dennis the Mennis @ Dec 5 2010, 11:00 PM)
Quote:
I've installed a remote starter and never removed the seats; I just made use of the seat adjuster (all the way back, all the way forward) and it worked fine. Under the dash is the wrong place to be thinking about. You need access to the body control module, which lives under the center console. Rasslin' the center console out is a bit daunting but it can be done. Once you have it out you have access to every wire you need to install a remote starter.

This doesn't solve the heated seats issue, though. I never installed bun warmers on KC.
The ignition, crank, accessory, etc. wires are under the dash, aren't they? The stuff I'm finding says they are in the "ignition switch harness", which I assume is under the dash just below the steering wheel.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_....asp~TID~108096

Here are pictures, I think these are all under the dash and in the drivers kick panel.
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_...;TPN=1&PN=1

Isn't that easier to get to than the BCM under the AC controls? How hard is it to get the center console out to get to the BCM?
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#5 Old 12-06-2010, 02:16 PM
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I agree; it's much easier to get to the ignition switch. The remote starter I installed had to be wired into the door lights, dome light, alarm disable, door locks, yada yada yada. There were several of those wires that are easier to get to via the BCM. If your remote start doesn't need to be wired into anything but the ignition switch, don't fool with the center console. BTW, you're right to remove the driver's seat to get better access to the ignition switch; I had to wire in to the ignition switch, too but I didn't think of removing the seat.

What wires do you need access to?

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#6 Old 12-06-2010, 07:47 PM
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zirconx
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QUOTE (Dennis the Mennis @ Dec 6 2010, 02:16 PM)
Quote:
I agree; it's much easier to get to the ignition switch. The remote starter I installed had to be wired into the door lights, dome light, alarm disable, door locks, yada yada yada. There were several of those wires that are easier to get to via the BCM. If your remote start doesn't need to be wired into anything but the ignition switch, don't fool with the center console. BTW, you're right to remove the driver's seat to get better access to the ignition switch; I had to wire in to the ignition switch, too but I didn't think of removing the seat.

What wires do you need access to?
I'll need a lot of wires:
* dome light
* power locks
* ignition, ground, etc.
* trunk pop
* door trigger
* brake light
* parking lights
* horn
* hood pin
* defroster
* arm / disarm
* tach

I think thats it. Boy this sounds like a lot of work.
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#7 Old 12-07-2010, 12:14 AM
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From personal experience, it IS a lot of work. It took me a long weekend. I don't remember which wire(s) you can only get to thru the BCM, so that's the go-to place. Removing the center console's a fiddly bit. If you're handy it can be done.

I pulled the wiring diagram from the Hyundai web site [attachment=21635:Sonata.pdf] and removed page 1; it's of no interest. The BCM is shown as well as the 3 connectors and what wire goes to what pin. You can ignore the voltages/diagnostic fiddle-faddle on the last page.

If you're not scared off yet, let me know and I can give you step-by-step instructions on how to remove the center console. If it looks too daunting, you can have it done professionally.

One word of caution: any kind of connection to a computer (that's what the BCM is) can give wonky signals to the module unless the connections are good and solid. I installed mine because I don't trust installers to properly connect the wires. Some here have successfully used the right kind of t-taps, but I prefer to solder my connections.
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File Type: pdf Sonata.pdf (221.7 KB, 38 views)

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#8 Old 12-07-2010, 09:42 AM
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Yes, I would appreciate any tips you would care to share. Mine is an '09 though, looks like yours is an '06? The interior is different. My brother will be installing a R.S. in his '07 at the same time I'm doing mine though, so tips for the older style interior will still be helpful.

Thats why I am doing my own too, just so I know its done right. And to save $400.
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#9 Old 12-07-2010, 07:58 PM
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I didn't notice you have a different year, but the method should work OK on your bro's '07.

The first thing to do is register on the Hyundai service site and find the sections (both for the '07 and '09) on removing the center console. Some of the guidelines are intended for pros with lots of helping hands; I didn't find it necessary to remove the front seats but it makes it easier to get at the ignition switch. I'd start with the '07 since it's the same car as my '06.

Start by prying the shifter trimpiece away from the center console. IIRC, it has 4 or 5 of those **** little white plastic clips that love to go shooting off to somewhere deep under the dash.

Next remove the 4 philips screws - 2 in front and 2 in back; they're underneath round plastic covers at the sides. You should be able to see 2 more philips screws thru the top of the center console, one on each side of the shifter; now you know why you removed the trimpiece.

Remove the rubber/fabric bottom cover in the deep well inside the armrest. You should see 2 10mm bolts. It's best to use a socket with an extension to remove them.

The center console should now be loose, held in only by the emergency brake lever. If not, check the diagrams to find the screws you missed. Pull back on the emergency brake; give it a good pull. If you don't get it back far enough you won't be able to rassle the console off. IIRC, I tilted mine up at the back then slid it back a little bit. You should be able to reach in and feel the connectors for the lighter and power port. I think they just slide off.

Once you get the connectors released you should be able to slide the center console up, up, back and away. The body control module is all the way forward on the center hump; it has 3 plugs with lots o'wires. Don't worry; you can't plug them in wrong - they're different sizes.

The guide I attached is accurate, but sometimes Hyundai calls them different things: Room Light is the Dome Light. Use your tester to probe the wires and make sure you're connecting to the right wire.

Bulldog has an excellent wiring guide that tells you which pin is which, but use your tester to confirm.

I found it helpful to list each wire and note which plug/pin it goes to. This Bulldog manual has lots of good information on using your tester, making connections, probing wires, etc. Bulldog designs and supports their products such that anyone who's handy can install them.

That should be enough to get you remote started

PS Very few remote starters need a tach wire, so try it w/o first; KC didn't need one. The hood pin is a lost cause; I think Hyundai uses a different wiring scheme. I couldn't get mine to work and gave up. if you want to wire one you'll have to install a separate hood pin and wire it to your remote starter.

I hear and I forget, I see and I remember, I do and I understand. Co NF ucius
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#10 Old 12-08-2010, 12:11 PM
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I have a viper system in my car and the installer said that the defroster couldnt be installed with it but im sure he was lying does anyone know how to go about hooking it up. is there a conector in the dirverside kickpanel that is for the defroster? im guessing i would need a relay between the brain of the viper unit and the wire for the car? would it just be a simplie splice with a relay inbetween? fyi i have an input for the defroster on my viper unit so im sure it can be hooked up thanks
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