|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-31-2016 12:31 PM|
Unless the dealer has had an old one laying around in the back room for eons, anything you get now will include the remedy for the sticking solenoids. IF (and this is a big IF), the problem is as we heard rumors of before, there was an issue with anodization of aluminum (lack of it, or poorly done) that caused the solenoids to stick within the solenoid bodies. They attempted to resolve this without replacement by modifying the code to hammer the solenoids with some manner of pulses to cause engagement of those that might otherwise stick, and this worked for SOME of them, but not all, in which case a full replacement was necessary.
AFAIK, no one at Hyundai has ever provided a clear picture of the original manufacturing problem to a dealer. Any transmission received through Hyundai parts distribution in recent history should have had that problem resolved, and I would be very surprised if one popped up with that issue again.
|08-31-2016 10:50 AM|
I was thinking something similar that when they replaced the transmission in 2011, maybe it was still one from the bad batch and that is why it needed to be replaced again.
The one they just put in now (3rd one!), could it be from that era too? or a reman of one of them?
I wish that there was a fess up and a list of S/N for them. Then I could take that to the dealer and have that 2nd one checked. I think I'm going to need to set up an appointment with the service manager when he gets back from vacay.
|08-31-2016 10:29 AM|
One thing to take into consideration ...
Your transmission was replaced, but was it replaced with a transmission that had the same defect? In the early days of these issues, Hyundai did NOT have a solid handle on the root cause of the problem. They DID replace transmissions with similarly bad transmissions before they realized what was going on with the solenoids. When this problem first appeared, it seems that the transmissions that were available in stock for replacement were of the same vintage as those used in the original builds. That's something for them to consider. I doubt the dealer is fully aware of what happened (though they may have guessed as time went by), and it would take a full 'fess up' by Hyundai to the dealer to determine whether the S/N of your 'new' transmission puts it into the good or bad era of builds. I'd press them on that point to see what happens. It's going to take some paperwork shuffling that we can't do here to get to the truth of that.
As for plugs, it sounds like they have never been replaced. Hyundai recommends changing them at 100K (miles) - which is about where you are in km - but honestly, it depends on the vehicle. I've seen some 100K Santa Fe 3.5L Lambda II engines whose plugs still looked fantastic, and a few that had plugs where I suspect that the fuel used may have been a bit shabby - definitely not top tier. If they pulled a front plug or two (the easy ones to reach!) and concluded that they looked good, and there have been NO P030x codes, I'd wait on that.
|08-31-2016 07:13 AM|
I think that is one of the reasons the service rep sounded hesitant about whether changing the plugs would fix it and didn't push for me to authorize the work.
When I picked the car up we chatted some more and he said he understood my hesitation and that the other option is to wait and see if it gets worse enough for codes or for a clear diagnosis. He's also going to check with the service manager (when he gets back from vacation) to see if they can get a better deal on the plugs.
They are adamant that the transmission is working fine and that it is not the problem. However, if they are basing that on no codes, I would think that the same could be said about the plugs. They must be going on the fact the tranny is new ("ish" since reman) but the plugs are original.
|08-31-2016 12:30 AM|
|canderson||If you had misfires bad enough to cause bucking, I'd certainly expect some P030x codes popping up, and I haven't heard of any reported in your posts.|
|08-30-2016 03:42 PM|
|Tripplec||Knowone should buy a used 2010 period. They cannot verify everything is fine without using it and driving long trips no less than a weekend. Even then issues may not show up. Odd are its trading in because something is wrong.|
|08-30-2016 03:31 PM|
After this post, I started shopping for a new vehicle and getting trade-in estimates on the Santa Fe. The dealer ends up calling me and saying that with my customer record, they contacted Hyundai and Hyundai would pay for the parts and I would only need to pay for the labour (about $800 - parts would have been another $3,000plus). Decided that this was better than starting car payments ahead, and also give me more time to decide what vehicle I want next, so I gave the go ahead.
During the work, they found that some other parts were seized and would not be able to be put back on. They seemed confident that Hyundai would cover them too - no such luck. In the end, I was on the hook for $2,200.
Then, a few days after picking it up I started having issues. There were still some bumps/jerkiness on occasion and it started to make a large squeaking over bumps. So took it back in. Turns out the sway bar bushings (I think. also one of the parts they had to replace on my dime) were dry - so they hadn't lubricated them enough when they put them back on. So they lubricated them and that is now fine. When they did the replacement, they should have done two sets of shift point resets - one on the computer direct and one while driving. They hadn't done the second one, so they did that.
Also while investigating the squeak, they found that a ball joint was worn out and would cost me $180 to fix.
After getting the car back again, I am still having issues. At 80km/h on the highway, when I hit an uphill and give it gas to keep the speed up, I get some bumping/jerking (someone called it slight bucking) and the occasional small bump when starting up from a stop. They have been looking at it today. They can't find what's wrong. They say the transmission is definitely fine. They are thinking it may be the plugs and it misfiring, but when they looked at one, they said it wasn't great but have seen a lot worse.
They want me to replace the plugs and see if that fixes it, but not sure if it will. ($30+ for each plug plus $250 or so in labour). I don't want to do this with such little certainty that it's the issue.
I'm fed up and wish they hadn't made the offer to pay for the transmission parts and that I had followed through with getting rid of it for a new vehicle.
(PS to the poster that was thinking of buying a used 2010 - if you haven't yet, don't just walk away from the deal - RUN!)
|08-25-2016 11:11 AM|
Very good, Transmission fluid is one of the fluids I have always changed in every vehicle (especially buying a used one). I typically change it several times via drain fill in the time i own it. An auxiliary cooler is a must have for longevity IMO but this factory one on the LTD is small and I don't have a lot of confidence in it. Although my towing with it are short distance (< 100km one way & ~ 2000lbs max) I am not too worried at this time with exceeding the engineering as its rated much higher than other SUV of this type (3500lbs)
Doing a second drain fill will dilute the contents enough to be like all was done. Checking it after 50,000 would be wise or sooner to see how it fairs. The harder one works the tranny towing or a lot of hill/mountains climbs the more important it is to be on top of it. If neglected transmission don't give much indication of something not right and just let go if run too long with bad over heated/burn fluid. As my transmission is the earlier one I used a Castrol Sythetic spec's out for it recently with just over 4L replaced in the draining of it.
|08-25-2016 10:32 AM|
Well I drained my tranny fluid last night and happy to say that no concerns with the tranny. There was only a small amount of metal shavings on the magnet.
I drained about 3.5 liters of fluid and filled it with Valvoline Maxlife. I will do another drain after driving about 20,000 Kms.
At about 78,000 kms the fluid is definitely dark, not bright pink so glad I did it.
I feel better about my purchase now.
Hope this SF will last me a long time and I don't see why it won't.
|08-21-2016 12:17 PM|
I personally think its best to stay away from a private or Non Hyundai dealer on a 2010 period. Between the tranny fault and AWD coupler quiting early its certainly not the desired year to be looking at. It would have to be a real tempting price. But if you're on the hook for a new transmission and/or rear AWD coupler then that kills the deal right away. If there is a problem the original ower/seller would have the 100k warranty. He should have it fixed before transferring ownership.
I am hearing some noise from my rear myself but not loud enough to determine what it is. The rear AWD is different and have not read of problems with it. The gear oil GL5 was changed last year. I am monitoring it almost like excessive road noise but the tires are not an aggressive pattern (summer set).
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