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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-20-2017 11:42 AM
Originally Posted by SpeciAL-47 View Post
I also used Lubegard Red with Klondik Full synthetic ATF and it cured my shifting issues. No need to replace transmission or do an update. The change in fluid is all most will need as the shifting issues are due to sticking solenoids and this stuff works. Research it and you will see this stuff is no snake oil, it works.
I'm a fan of using Hyundai/Kia OEM fluid, especially if doing a pan drain instead of a complete flush, on the theory that the manufacturer will use what's best for what they make. That way there aren't questions of what might happen if fluids with different additive packages are mixed. Like your case, I cured shift problems just that way.

04-20-2017 10:57 AM
SpeciAL-47 I also used Lubegard Red with Klondik Full synthetic ATF and it cured my shifting issues. No need to replace transmission or do an update. The change in fluid is all most will need as the shifting issues are due to sticking solenoids and this stuff works. Research it and you will see this stuff is no snake oil, it works.
11-21-2016 07:15 PM
canderson Hope you read through carefully. Builds from August on didn't ever seem to exhibit the problem.
11-21-2016 05:34 PM
pment Is there a problem with the 2011 or 2012 models. I am looking for AWD.
11-21-2016 05:13 PM
pment I am glad I read this before buying a used 2010.
10-12-2016 01:19 PM
Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
The used one may have been from the same batch with the same build problems. Hard to say, harder to accept and I feel for you. If going for used one I think 2012 should have cleared all the problems with them. It also boils down to cost for it to be done there. The rear AWD coupler was quite weak in that year as well so it should be checked in the least it not in need of replacement soon as well.
What are the symptoms when the rear AWD coupler starts to fail? Just wondering what I should be on the watch for.
08-31-2016 12:31 PM
canderson Unless the dealer has had an old one laying around in the back room for eons, anything you get now will include the remedy for the sticking solenoids. IF (and this is a big IF), the problem is as we heard rumors of before, there was an issue with anodization of aluminum (lack of it, or poorly done) that caused the solenoids to stick within the solenoid bodies. They attempted to resolve this without replacement by modifying the code to hammer the solenoids with some manner of pulses to cause engagement of those that might otherwise stick, and this worked for SOME of them, but not all, in which case a full replacement was necessary.

AFAIK, no one at Hyundai has ever provided a clear picture of the original manufacturing problem to a dealer. Any transmission received through Hyundai parts distribution in recent history should have had that problem resolved, and I would be very surprised if one popped up with that issue again.
08-31-2016 10:50 AM
skram68 Thanks canderson.

I was thinking something similar that when they replaced the transmission in 2011, maybe it was still one from the bad batch and that is why it needed to be replaced again.

The one they just put in now (3rd one!), could it be from that era too? or a reman of one of them?

I wish that there was a fess up and a list of S/N for them. Then I could take that to the dealer and have that 2nd one checked. I think I'm going to need to set up an appointment with the service manager when he gets back from vacay.
08-31-2016 10:29 AM
canderson One thing to take into consideration ...
Your transmission was replaced, but was it replaced with a transmission that had the same defect? In the early days of these issues, Hyundai did NOT have a solid handle on the root cause of the problem. They DID replace transmissions with similarly bad transmissions before they realized what was going on with the solenoids. When this problem first appeared, it seems that the transmissions that were available in stock for replacement were of the same vintage as those used in the original builds. That's something for them to consider. I doubt the dealer is fully aware of what happened (though they may have guessed as time went by), and it would take a full 'fess up' by Hyundai to the dealer to determine whether the S/N of your 'new' transmission puts it into the good or bad era of builds. I'd press them on that point to see what happens. It's going to take some paperwork shuffling that we can't do here to get to the truth of that.

As for plugs, it sounds like they have never been replaced. Hyundai recommends changing them at 100K (miles) - which is about where you are in km - but honestly, it depends on the vehicle. I've seen some 100K Santa Fe 3.5L Lambda II engines whose plugs still looked fantastic, and a few that had plugs where I suspect that the fuel used may have been a bit shabby - definitely not top tier. If they pulled a front plug or two (the easy ones to reach!) and concluded that they looked good, and there have been NO P030x codes, I'd wait on that.
08-31-2016 07:13 AM
Originally Posted by canderson View Post
If you had misfires bad enough to cause bucking, I'd certainly expect some P030x codes popping up, and I haven't heard of any reported in your posts.
The service rep said they weren't getting any codes.I believe he said they had the computer hooked up during the drive while reproducing the issue.

I think that is one of the reasons the service rep sounded hesitant about whether changing the plugs would fix it and didn't push for me to authorize the work.

When I picked the car up we chatted some more and he said he understood my hesitation and that the other option is to wait and see if it gets worse enough for codes or for a clear diagnosis. He's also going to check with the service manager (when he gets back from vacation) to see if they can get a better deal on the plugs.

They are adamant that the transmission is working fine and that it is not the problem. However, if they are basing that on no codes, I would think that the same could be said about the plugs. They must be going on the fact the tranny is new ("ish" since reman) but the plugs are original.
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