Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum - Reply to Topic
Thread: Transmission Problems With New 2010 Santa Fe Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 12:30 AM
canderson If you had misfires bad enough to cause bucking, I'd certainly expect some P030x codes popping up, and I haven't heard of any reported in your posts.
Yesterday 03:42 PM
Tripplec Knowone should buy a used 2010 period. They cannot verify everything is fine without using it and driving long trips no less than a weekend. Even then issues may not show up. Odd are its trading in because something is wrong.
Yesterday 03:31 PM
skram68
Quote:
Originally Posted by skram68 View Post
Well 5 years later (they replaced the transmission back then when it was originally happening) and now at 167,000kms and it's happening again. This time harder/louder and more often.

Now out of warranty! They are going to do a reset of the shift values to see if that helps, otherwise looking at a new transmission on my dime! May have to start looking at new vehicles - having a hard time thinking about putting a new transmission into a 6.5yr/167K km vehicle.

I had loved this vehicle and owned it longer than any other one I had and wanted to keep it even longer - and then likely get a new Santa Fe. But if this is it, then I don't know if I can stay with Hyundai or the new model of Santa Fe.
The saga continues.

After this post, I started shopping for a new vehicle and getting trade-in estimates on the Santa Fe. The dealer ends up calling me and saying that with my customer record, they contacted Hyundai and Hyundai would pay for the parts and I would only need to pay for the labour (about $800 - parts would have been another $3,000plus). Decided that this was better than starting car payments ahead, and also give me more time to decide what vehicle I want next, so I gave the go ahead.

During the work, they found that some other parts were seized and would not be able to be put back on. They seemed confident that Hyundai would cover them too - no such luck. In the end, I was on the hook for $2,200.

Then, a few days after picking it up I started having issues. There were still some bumps/jerkiness on occasion and it started to make a large squeaking over bumps. So took it back in. Turns out the sway bar bushings (I think. also one of the parts they had to replace on my dime) were dry - so they hadn't lubricated them enough when they put them back on. So they lubricated them and that is now fine. When they did the replacement, they should have done two sets of shift point resets - one on the computer direct and one while driving. They hadn't done the second one, so they did that.

Also while investigating the squeak, they found that a ball joint was worn out and would cost me $180 to fix.

After getting the car back again, I am still having issues. At 80km/h on the highway, when I hit an uphill and give it gas to keep the speed up, I get some bumping/jerking (someone called it slight bucking) and the occasional small bump when starting up from a stop. They have been looking at it today. They can't find what's wrong. They say the transmission is definitely fine. They are thinking it may be the plugs and it misfiring, but when they looked at one, they said it wasn't great but have seen a lot worse.

They want me to replace the plugs and see if that fixes it, but not sure if it will. ($30+ for each plug plus $250 or so in labour). I don't want to do this with such little certainty that it's the issue.

I'm fed up and wish they hadn't made the offer to pay for the transmission parts and that I had followed through with getting rid of it for a new vehicle.

(PS to the poster that was thinking of buying a used 2010 - if you haven't yet, don't just walk away from the deal - RUN!)
08-25-2016 11:11 AM
Tripplec Very good, Transmission fluid is one of the fluids I have always changed in every vehicle (especially buying a used one). I typically change it several times via drain fill in the time i own it. An auxiliary cooler is a must have for longevity IMO but this factory one on the LTD is small and I don't have a lot of confidence in it. Although my towing with it are short distance (< 100km one way & ~ 2000lbs max) I am not too worried at this time with exceeding the engineering as its rated much higher than other SUV of this type (3500lbs)

Doing a second drain fill will dilute the contents enough to be like all was done. Checking it after 50,000 would be wise or sooner to see how it fairs. The harder one works the tranny towing or a lot of hill/mountains climbs the more important it is to be on top of it. If neglected transmission don't give much indication of something not right and just let go if run too long with bad over heated/burn fluid. As my transmission is the earlier one I used a Castrol Sythetic spec's out for it recently with just over 4L replaced in the draining of it.
08-25-2016 10:32 AM
budmelon Well I drained my tranny fluid last night and happy to say that no concerns with the tranny. There was only a small amount of metal shavings on the magnet.


I drained about 3.5 liters of fluid and filled it with Valvoline Maxlife. I will do another drain after driving about 20,000 Kms.


At about 78,000 kms the fluid is definitely dark, not bright pink so glad I did it.


I feel better about my purchase now.


Hope this SF will last me a long time and I don't see why it won't.
08-21-2016 12:17 PM
Tripplec I personally think its best to stay away from a private or Non Hyundai dealer on a 2010 period. Between the tranny fault and AWD coupler quiting early its certainly not the desired year to be looking at. It would have to be a real tempting price. But if you're on the hook for a new transmission and/or rear AWD coupler then that kills the deal right away. If there is a problem the original ower/seller would have the 100k warranty. He should have it fixed before transferring ownership.

I am hearing some noise from my rear myself but not loud enough to determine what it is. The rear AWD is different and have not read of problems with it. The gear oil GL5 was changed last year. I am monitoring it almost like excessive road noise but the tires are not an aggressive pattern (summer set).
08-21-2016 11:58 AM
canderson Very good idea to get any prior service info before buying if you can get them to release it to you. If you're buying it off a Hyundai lot, they should be able to give the service info to you without referring back to the original servicing dealer. If some other company's lot, then yes, I'd talk to the original dealer if you can.
08-21-2016 11:27 AM
budmelon I know about the build date, I know it is not just limited to AWD or 2.4 or 3.5.

I guess what I'm thinking of doing now is calling the dealership where the Santa Fe was bought originally and ask them about the history.

I haven't picked up the car yet and no money exchanged yet.

I'm a bit nervous because we had a 2007 with no issues....well except that fuel gauge thing. I also have a 2007 Kia Rondo with 208,000 Kms and that's the reason why I bought the SF to replaced that Rondo. I intend to keep that SF for a long time and hope I picked a good one.

If the SF history is good, I will do the tranny fluid change right away.

Thanks everyone.
08-21-2016 10:54 AM
Upthewazzu I had my transmission replaced @ 62,000 miles, so it can still happen. Mine was a December '09 build. Frankly, I'm shocked it lasted as long as it did.
08-21-2016 10:00 AM
canderson Problem, if present, likely to have shown up in 45K miles. Check the placard inside driver's door sill for build date. Seems like everything from August onward was OK. Those prior to August were the ones prone to issues.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome