Your rear camber is WAY out of spec (-1.5 : -5.5) on the LR. The RR is also outside the upper limit.
Was your caster corrected? You didn't add after numbers and your number is well outside the 4.7 - 3.7 range.
I'd probably start with taking the car to Hyundai, along with the printout, and let them check it and compare the two results. Mine were fairly close between the dealer and Tire Kingdom, and they replaced the rear torsion axle. If you're out of warranty a shim job might be the most economical solution, but you really need to get that fixed or you'll be spending the money on tires over and over. At least the toe is good. That would eat the tires even faster if it were as bad as the camber, but you're running on the inside of those rears.
Just keep up a regular tire rotation to 'equalize' the wear. Otherwise you are looking at tire replacements in pairs which isn't the best way to handle this.
Also, this can't be an across the board thing - my rear suspension feels fine and the tire wear looks normal. I also had a 2010 HD with what I am assuming is probably the same basic rear suspension and the tire wear on it was normal as well.
So...I guess I will keep things the way they are, until my next alignment.
And I will then bring it to a Hyundai dealer so they can analyze the numbers next time.
Your rear toe is great. The rear camber is a little high. Your may get excess rear tire wear on the inside of the tires, but your rear tires should wear much less the average Elantra. I recommend you rotate your tires perhaps every 5k miles.
I have a 2009 Elantra SE and it is my wife's car and mostly sits these days and I just tore down the rear brakes to clean up the rust. The rear suspension is totally different, independent setup with control arms. I now know because you need to drop the arm to get to a mounting bolt for the caliper.
Oh yeah, sure, I'd rather have more trunk room than a good handling rear end!
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