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Thinking of Installing 8000k Hids?

7K views 48 replies 19 participants last post by  Petie1881 
#1 ·
Just wondering if anyone has installed 8000k Hids on there E? I've had 6000k on my Saturn liked them they were nice & bright even clear, I feel like something a bit brighter especially if I modify my headlights some way or other! I may add custom Halo ring somehow if feesable just to be different when I tear them open I was going to either paint match the inside reflector part or just black, am I able to do this or will my lights not shine properly?
 
#5 ·
+1
Same here , every time I see a car with 8000k reminds me of those civics ricers hatchback from the 90's customized by young guys , my personal view , i just relate that ;and indeed they look too bright and too blue + you get less useful light output .
That's why i had 6000k on my 08 Elantra and got the same with the 2012.
 
#12 ·
I would say 8000k is more like white with a slight blue tint, or ice blue. They light up the road great if both sides are overlapped. I had them uneven for awhile (one aimed low and other high) and it was pretty weak lightning from one headlight coverage. But both aimed correctly lights up everything.
 
#14 ·
8000k isnt that bad.. It just has a light blue tint :) hope that helps![/QUOTE]

That's a good pic of the HIDs. Most the other pictures I've seen are just a blob of colored light...ha.
Say - are those 35w or 55w ballasts?
I have 2 sets on the way - both 55w 8000k for the lows and fogs...
ALSO: did you install the relay wire and code eliminator? I got them for the fogs because the sales guy at DDM said it was necessary for the fog lights, but not for the lows...just wanting to hear your take ... being successful with your install and all...thanks for any input.


I have read from tons of folks that are against these (blue or otherwise in a reflective casing) but being a driver, normally during dark hours...I gotta say that even the brightest ones I've seen don't make me feel like I'm gonna lose control of my vehicle. You just adjust the same way that you would if there was someone coming towards you with brights, or even a tall SUV/truck...everyone of us drivers out there have had to deal with something like this, it isn't the end of the world...don't look into the lights when they are headed towards you, look down the road at road level...even if you feel you can't break the gaze, look down towards the tires instead...this is just common sense stuff...if they're behind you, adjust your mirrors for those same conditions if it bothers you. I personally think the bluish tinted ones are the easiest on the eyes. I prefer them over any halogen (even in a reflective housing). and being behind them in traffic you can see what they're seeing on the road and I think it is a huge increase in visibility. I live in a larger city and these are regular happenings now...there are worse things to complain and cause a stir about.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Then I'm a dumb4ss thanks for that by the way. I pointed my beam on both my Elantra and my Accent at least 30%, I have never been flashed while driving out in the boonies, I've passed cops, trucks, cars etc never a flash and never an issue. Pointing them downwards is what you're suppose to do.



Also been behind a shyte load of cops and have never had an issue. My setup is the same on both vehicles; 6000K headlights and 3000K fogs.
 
#18 ·
So which Ballast size did you decide on? 35w or 55w? I plugged my 55w in for a test run before installing (need a couple tools to make sure it looks professional under the hood)...and the ballasts got seriously hot...I thought about the reverse polarization at the bulb but thought if it was that, then there would simply be no light...

On the fogs, what did you mount your ballasts to, and was the relay enough wire to reach the battery? (length-wise)
 
#20 ·
As for the fogs, I had them professionally installed on the Elantra. On my Accent I did it myself and just zip tied the ballasts to whatever I could find. lol[/quote]
Ah...Thanks for the quick response. So you don't have a harness/relay on those fogs?

I am a little worried about the temperature of those ballasts, but I have googled throughout this ENTIRE world (maybe-it feels like it) and there aren't many or any related issues that sound like mine, so I suppose maybe I am just being a bit too cautious...I still plan to install them all, I am waiting right now for one more harness and error eliminator...did you need the eliminator for your accent?

Yours look good by the way...(my style isn't really the yellow fogs, but I don't think it looks bad) I know the lighting is what matters and not the color necessarily, but I want the lows and fogs to match on mine.

Thanks again.
 
#21 ·
My car...I am going to do the fogs in the same 55w 8000k...all I have to do is wait for the relay harness and the code eliminators along with a drill bit that will give me the 7/8" hole I need to run the wiring through the dust caps.

Don't mind the wiring in the engine bay...this was a test run to gather the info like what color they will be and how it was to install (beginner skill)...the finished product will hopefully yield VERY little wiring exposed.
 

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#26 · (Edited)
I am a little worried about the temperature of those ballasts, but I have googled throughout this ENTIRE world (maybe-it feels like it) and there aren't many or any related issues that sound like mine, so I suppose maybe I am just being a bit too cautious...I still plan to install them all, I am waiting right now for one more harness and error eliminator...did you need the eliminator for your accent?

Yours look good by the way...(my style isn't really the yellow fogs, but I don't think it looks bad) I know the lighting is what matters and not the color necessarily, but I want the lows and fogs to match on mine.

Thanks again.

Just keep the ballast away from anything else, especially plastic, better if attached to the chassis. Add a heatsink if you're going for a harness.
 
#30 ·
I've been wanting to go 3000k on fogs for a while now and add DRLs (here) but kinda very short on cash nowdays and pulling out the bumper again seems like a rear pain.
 
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#31 ·
It really isn't as bad as you'd think. There are 2 real screws (one in each wheel well above the tire) and 6 plastic pressure screws...be gentle with these, they're a real pain if you strip the plastic top. Then there are 5 more of those screws right at the hood latch (you don't need to remove the tiny looking ones, they're for the grill)...make sure to place something like a blanket or beach towel under the bumper in case you accidentally let one side drop ... yeah, you learn quick after the 1st time...just take my word for it...There is a place behind the main bumper that is already a ground for something else...I just removed that screw, added my ground and placed it back where it was...I routed the power wire of the relay under the driver headlight and to the pos.+ battery post. I mounted the ballasts with 2 sided 3m trim tape to the top of the main metal bumper and there was plenty of room...hindsight, I would have probably mounted them to the bottom because I ended up pulling one of the wires out of the adapter piece...I ended up having to splice in about 4" of similar gauge wire (yeah...I'm a big time do it yourselfer...just have lots of odd things lying around ha!) other than my bad judgement in distance, it was not so bad...I got the wires to route other wires that belonged to the Hyundai with zip ties. It really is a neat looking finish...OCD much...

But when the job is done, you'll appreciate the work you put in...I guarantee. The 3000k's huh? what is that, like xray?
 
#34 ·
Oversurge? Do you have a relay kit?
 
#38 ·
Glad you got that taken care of. That's a huge reason I do anything I can myself. They aren't gonna take care of it like you're gonna take care of it. The fogs CAN be done without removing the bumper but it wouldn't probably be a very quality job...I did the relays and code blocker...couldn't imagine that job going through the wheel well...shew.
 
#37 ·
Follow up on this thread for further reference. Also I remember deadly telling me he had his fogs done through the wheel by taking it out.
 
#43 ·
I think code blocks/eliminators/capacitors (what I call them) are the same thing?

Either way, these capacitors are what I used to solve the rattling relay. I only needed it installed on one side (passenger) and didn't even need to do the driver's side.

Mine are these:
Amazon.com: HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand): Automotive

Very very easy to install with the help of a 3 minute youtube video. Definitely don't need to bring it to a shop for this.
 
#45 ·
I think code blocks/eliminators/capacitors (what I call them) are the same thing?

Either way, these capacitors are what I used to solve the rattling relay. I only needed it installed on one side (passenger) and didn't even need to do the driver's side.

Mine are these:
Amazon.com: HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand): Automotive

Very very easy to install with the help of a 3 minute youtube video. Definitely don't need to bring it to a shop for this.
That seems to be just what I need,thanks for the help my friend!
 
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