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mobil 1 0w40

7K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  Red Raspberry 
#1 ·
Hello Im new with Hyundai, I came from VW jetta and I was iusing mobil 1 0w40, Elantra works fine with that oil?

My Elantra is 2012 std, and has 90 000 miles.

Thanks.
 
#2 · (Edited)
40 is pretty heavy. I drive a 2.0L and use a full synthetic 5W30, which has been really nice. The engine was already pretty quiet and I feel like the 30 weight makes it even more so, plus provides a little more protection than 20 weight. My MPG have dropped slightly, but I'm still averaging low 40s on the highway and about 38 in town. I don't see a need to go above a 30 weight in the 1.8L, but maybe others on here who drive that motor have experience with the 40 weight. Hope this helps and best of luck with your new car! Our Elantra is my first Hyundai too, and have been pretty impressed.
 
#3 ·
5w20 or 5w30 should be fine. You can check your owners manual to determine exactly which oil to go with.
 
#4 ·
#5 · (Edited)
First off you need to realize 5w-20 is a negative for any motor that has any kind of summer weather temps. All it is to appeased CAFE mileage standards. 5w-30 is a minimum for me. As the poster above said 5w-40 is a thin 40. I run 5w-40 in our Rav4 it is speced for 5w-20. After the first run oil in any of my new cars (600 miles is the first dump) it is 5w-30.

I just got a NEW motor in my 2013 Elantra GT because of the tick of death. Seemed to be just lifters to me. I owned a hobby Audi repair shop and it really just sounded like bad lifters,,,,, but they told me I need a new motor.

Maybe 5w-40 IS the answer to better longevity here, "they " say when you get the tick of death that the cylinders are all scored up. Seems hard to believe since my motor was quiet when warmed up and it was SO SMOOTH you did not know it was running, The new motor is rougher, I know it is running without question and no, I highly doubt it will smooth out but maybe a hair after say 10,000 miles. I remember it being SO SMOOTH you did not know it was running when it was brand new.

After my 2,000 mile break in I am now running 3 qt of 5-30 Redline that is a group 5 Ester based oil with high moly and Mobil 1 for the rest of the fill to help stop any scuffing of the cylinders. I have heard a couple people are on their second 1.8 and 2.0 Elantra motors. Seems Hyundai needs to build better motors. A ground up motor redesign is needed across the board with all their engines. The 1.8 has nothing to do with the machining chip issue that were not cleared from the crank oil passage ways that the other motors are plagued with.

I may just switch over to 5w-40 my next oil change. Makes sense to me. My Rav4 loves it as far as I can tell.

I think I will always 3 qts of Redline to get some group 5 ester and some moly in the mix and the rest Mobil 1 since Hyundai can't seem build motors good. Seeing I can go 1 year on an oil change 9,000 miles a year.

.
 
#7 ·
First off you need to realize 5w-20 is a negative for any motor that has any kind of summer weather temps..
I hope that all the readers understand that your comments are nothing more than an opnion, and just that, 5w20 has been used for millions of miles year round.

So, unless you have a study to prove not to use 5W20 in summer heat please note that it is your opinion and not a fact.
 
#6 ·
I have read others using 0w-40 with good results in their Kia's or Hyundai's. Do you have a warranty? I will be using 5w-30 Pennzoil Platinum next oil change. Manual says 5w-30 is OK and only have about 3,000 miles on the car. I am only going to use the grade recommended in the owner's manual. But, if you do not have a warranty do what you think is best.
 
#9 ·
It's a little of both to me ...

I ran 5W20 in my 2002 Focus for 165K miles - had radiator fan failures for a few months of that (coolant temps of 235-ish), and had zero oil related issues, and new engines are going to 0W16 and 0W8 down the line.

That said, I'm planning to switch to 5W30 in the Accent for better HTHS protection.

Personally, I would run 5W30 in the non-turbo engine and 5W40 in the turbos, but others have said the 0W40 is fairly thin and works okay, and they would know better than I would.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Comparison data from Mobil's own Product Data Sheets:

Blue = Viscosity, @ 40ºC (104ºF)
Red = Viscosity, @ 100ºC (212ºF)

0W-20
44.8
8.7
Viscosity Index 173

0W-30
62.9
10.9
Viscosity Index 166

0W-40
70.8
12.9
Viscosity Index 186

5W-20
49.8
8.9
Viscosity Index 160

5W-30
61.7
11.0
Viscosity Index 172

5W-40
81.0
13.4
Viscosity Index 167

Viscosity index (VI) is an arbitrary measure for the change of viscosity with variations in temperature. The lower the VI, the greater the change of viscosity of the oil with temperature and vice versa. It is used to characterize viscosity changes with relation to temperature in lubricating oil.
Using the above information, my conclusion is that 5W-40 is too viscous at all temperatures and 0W-20 may be too thin after reaching operating temperature. I would recommend 0W-30, 5W-20, or 5W-30.

That being said, my previous vehicle (2000 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.8L) exhibited noisy tappets when cold unless I ran 0W-20, and it ran for over 300k miles.
 
#14 ·
Oil Selection

I thought most engine wear occurred at start-up. Because of that, I use the thinnest oil recommended by the manufacturer. You want the oil to flow immediately when you start the car. So it's 5W-20 Castrol for the Elantra, changed every 3K. For our 11 Sonata Hybrid, it's 0W-20 Mobil 1 changed every 6K.

I wonder how many people who are having the noisy chain tensioner are using heavier oil?
 
#18 ·
Based on the range of responses I would try to strike a compromise based upon a mathematical calculation using the derivate of the mean divided by the sum of the avg and the answer is a good old 5w -30 , but if your machine burns some oil then might be prudent to consider one of the oils marketed for high miles (85K) in a 5w-40 .
 
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