Rebuilding the AC system - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Rebuilding the AC system

My compressor clutch coil is open and the bearing is bad on it too. So I got an AC rebuild kit off of Amazon specific to the Accent. Cost $274 and included new compressor and clutch, oil, orings, filter sock and new orifice valve.

I have a set of gauges and a vacuum pump. The only thing that looks difficult is the orifice valve on the fire wall. Behind the intake. Maybe getting to it from the air box side is easier as I have the air box removed.. I won't know until I take the lines out.

I have the belts off the car from a timing belt change so there is a little more room. I can see one of the four AC compressor bolts from the top.

Any tips would be appreciated.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well it's been fun but it's hot so I quit for the day.

Got the condenser out and some of the pipes loose. From the bottom it looks like the compressor is not to hard to get to. The valve on the firewall though looks to be best accessed from the drivers side. Two bolts are all that hold it on and it also has a pipe bolted to it.

The condenser has to come out to get to the filter sock which means removing the radiator too. The condenser at 150k is pretty beat up on the lower half of the front. The plug is plastic with a big female allen hex. I don't think it will come out with the allen wrench just rounding out the plastic. Probably will order a new one and just tear the old one out. Surprised the kit did nt come with one.

But I plan on putting some denatured alcohol in the condenser, lines and evaporator and blowing them out with compressed air to get all the old oil out. I should be able to get to the evaporator lines once the valve is off.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 04:42 PM
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Well it's been fun but it's hot so I quit for the day.

Got the condenser out and some of the pipes loose. From the bottom it looks like the compressor is not to hard to get to. The valve on the firewall though looks to be best accessed from the drivers side. Two bolts are all that hold it on and it also has a pipe bolted to it.

The condenser has to come out to get to the filter sock which means removing the radiator too. The condenser at 150k is pretty beat up on the lower half of the front. The plug is plastic with a big female allen hex. I don't think it will come out with the allen wrench just rounding out the plastic. Probably will order a new one and just tear the old one out. Surprised the kit did nt come with one.

But I plan on putting some denatured alcohol in the condenser, lines and evaporator and blowing them out with compressed air to get all the old oil out. I should be able to get to the evaporator lines once the valve is off.
Wow. When I was tightening the belts on my Accent I looked at the locations of everything. That compressor is IN there! And, you have the airbox out?!?! Doesn't that require removing the dash?!?!?

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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No the air filter box. The valve on the firewall is the worst but once all the lines are out it looks do able. Compressor looks pretty easy really once all is removed.


So it's take air filter box out, condenser out, radiator out, unbolt PS reservoir, unbolt the windshield washer tank, unbolt the AC lines..

Next I need to take the AC lines off the compressor and that should open things up good.

Found the condenser sock cap on ebay for $14, part# 978033L000

This would be also the ideal time to change the heater hoses.

And found a 12mm 1/4" deep socket, lost a 10mm short socket.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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So today I got everything off. Kind of melodramatic. When the hard lines are removed there is plenty of room to get to the compressor and the valve on the fire wall has two bolts that come out easily from the drivers side once the air filter box is out of the way. Hardest part today was removing the condenser plug and the electrical connector to the AC pressure sensor.

The condenser sock plug has a 10mm allen hex built into it but that is for installing. I did get it out with a large pair of 90* needle nose that fit into the flukes of the cap nice and tight.

Now on to removing the heater and throttle body hoses.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 12:45 PM
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wow, i am sore just from reading. ooof! see, with age, comes worthiness. as in, it aint worth it. i would just pay a shop, then take a nap. lotsa stuff nowdays is designed to come out the bottom. no lift, pay shop
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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It all comes out from the top.

If I were to do it again I would get a new condenser. They are from $50 to $150 on Rock Auto.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-14-2017, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Blew the lines all out with some denatured ethanol today. Flushed the condenser too but I' ll do that again. Waiting on the condenser sock cap to get here.

I see the kit I ordered from Amazon for $273 is no down to $200.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 12:34 AM
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Sorry for hijacking the thread. Can I know if your AC compressor cycle on and off alot, let say every 1 minute or less? And does the compressor cut off when your turn the temperature to heater only?

My compressor does not seems to cut off when I turn the temperature control to heat only. The compressor only gets cut off for less than 10 seconds when it is icy cool then keep running for several minutes. Is it the same for everyone's Hyundai accent MC?
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry for hijacking the thread. Can I know if your AC compressor cycle on and off alot, let say every 1 minute or less? And does the compressor cut off when your turn the temperature to heater only?

My compressor does not seems to cut off when I turn the temperature control to heat only. The compressor only gets cut off for less than 10 seconds when it is icy cool then keep running for several minutes. Is it the same for everyone's Hyundai accent MC?
Sounds like your pressures are low.
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