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Oil to reduce cold start up chatter

5K views 27 replies 13 participants last post by  Voivod 
#1 ·
Wondering if anyone noticed any reduction in the chatter these cars make when they are cold with different oil used. I had PP in it before and then now M1 and noise seems a little more. I did mix maybe 1/2 quart of the PP left over from before. I remember seeing somewhere someone mentioned synthetic Castrol was quieter.
I do want to switch to the regular pennzoil yellow bottle oil after I finish the M1 jug.
 
#4 ·
I'm using 5 20 with the oem filter so nothing wrong there. It might not be that bad, I mean the noise does go away but it is strange that I feel it's louder. The car has about 35k now btw.
I don't want to do 0 20 or 30, couldn't that lead to a warranty issue.

Can gas quality or grade effect this at all?
 
#5 ·
I'm using 5 20 with the oem filter so nothing wrong there. It might not be that bad, I mean the noise does go away but it is strange that I feel it's louder. The car has about 35k now btw.
I don't want to do 0 20 or 30, couldn't that lead to a warranty issue.
No, 0W flows slightly better in cold climates and your part of MA will get cold this winter. The 0W20 or 30 would be great. I was born in Western MA and if I still lived there I would run 0W20 or 30 year round. Quicker flow can stop the noise as can the filter.
 
#7 ·
Maybe I'll see how this goes, if it seems to get worse when it's closer to winter, I'll just change it to 100% M1 I have left and see how that is.

In addition to you, from what I've read on the oil forum a lot of accent owners seem to be happy with the 0 weight oil. I can't imagine how it would void warranty as well. I mean don't see them doing some chemical analysis on the oil if something happens. I think the main reason not to prescribe 0 weight for economy cars is just to reduce cost, expensive oil would take away from the economy car vibe.
 
#8 ·
I would think twice before switching to any oil weight that isn't specifically approved in the owner's manual. You have a 10-year, 100,000-mile warranty on this car, and if the engine destroys itself before then, Hyundai will look for any and every reason under the sun to deny your warranty claim. They will require you to produce receipts proving that you changed the oil at the maintenance intervals specified in the manual and that you used the specified weights. Seriously, a little clatter in the morning is probably nothing to worry about, and is not uncommon with these cars. Stick with 5W-20 or 5W-30 so that you don't have to answer to Hyundai later on.
 
#9 · (Edited)
There are two different oil recommendations in the owners manual, yes? One for extreme cold temps, and one to cover cold-to-warmer climate ranges? If that dealer looks under the chassis, sees that cute little blue filter attached, pulls out the dipstick and the level between the marks are where they are supposed to be? I highly doubt any issue regarding non-warranted claims will be raised.
 
#10 ·
Doubt it. If you make a warranty claim for a new engine, Hyundai will search high and low for a reason not to pay for it. They will make you produce receipts proving a) that the oil was changed within the specified intervals, and b) that the oil has always been the oil specified by the owner's manual. Why risk it? Changing the oil weight probably won't make any difference, and this noise is known to be a common issue (with these cars and others as well) that doesn't affect performance or engine longevity, so it's really a non-issue. Personally, I'm inside my car when I start it in the morning and don't hear the valves anyway, so I don't understand all the concern.
 
#11 ·
Specified oils for this car are 5W-20 and 5W-30 for all temperature ranges, and 10W-30 for zero degrees and above. 0W oils are not recommended. Trust me, if your engine bakes at 98,000 miles and Hyundai sees receipts showing that you've been running 0W oil for 50,000 miles, they'll deny your claim.
 
#12 · (Edited)
We have a member on here within shouting distance of where I live. He was getting the runaround at his dealer. He went to mine about 7 miles further away. They had to tear down into the engine to correct the problem. Not one eyebrow was raised. Not one question as to oil change intervals, nor demand for documentation. All handled under warranty. He left astonished at how well he was received, treated, and sent down the road...again, "astonished" at how well the car performed.

Don't take my word for it: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/md-2011-elantra/312305-eeech-eech-eeech-eeech-eeeeech-44k-miles-4.html

@Margarets Dad: If you're getting the kind of aggravation you're referring to in the above posts, maybe it's time to consider looking for another dealer if you have one nearby. :rolleyes:
 
#13 ·
We have a member on here within shouting distance of where I live. He was getting the runaround at his dealer. He went to mine about 7 miles further away. They had to tear down into the engine to correct the problem. Not one eyebrow was raised. Not one question as to oil change intervals, nor demand for documentation. All handled under warranty. He left astonished at how well he was received, treated, and sent down the road...again, "astonished" at how well the car performed.

@Margarets Dad: If you're getting the kind of aggravation you're referring to in the above posts, maybe it's time to consider looking for another dealer if you have one nearby. :rolleyes:
That dealer sounds unusually nice, but I really doubt most dealers would start tearing down an engine without proof that the warranty claim is valid, and that they're going to get reimbursed for the work by Hyundai. Most would demand documentation allowing them to prove to Hyundai, beyond a shadow of a doubt, that the claim is valid on $2,000 worth of work. If you don't believe me, a few minutes of googling will produce all kinds of horror stories about Hyundai denying warranty claims using all kinds of excuses because they know most people don't have the money or time to fight them on it. Why risk it? They built the engine and I see no reason to second-guess them on which oil weight is best for it. If they're saying 5W-20, do 5W-20.
 
#14 ·
anyone thought of using a block heater? warmer oil flows easier....

i get a very slight chatter when in the dead cold of winter on my old accent, always have. the block heater eliminates that. you can also stick a timer on it and run it for a couple hours. you don't really need more than that.

problem is my car sits in a parking lot for 12 hours while i'm at work, nights AND days. no plug out there :(
 
#18 ·
I stopped by to get some stuff at walmart today and saw they had 5qt PP 5w-20 for 21$ with a 10$ rebate so couldn't let that up! I just wish I had to drive more so I could use this stuff up quicker. I am sure the oil isn't a huge determinant of engine life anyways as long as its in spec. I probably would switch to 5w-30 sometime in the future though.

Whether using a different spec oil would void warranty or not probably depends a great deal on the dealer. Some wont care and wont ask others would.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I picked up a shutload of 0w40 from a guy who sold his Audi. Yep, nothing bug 0w40 in my SF 2.0T, my 2.0Nu Elantra, and even in my 6.7L Ford Diesel. I guess that I need to save up for 3 engines which are bound to fail.

The 0w oil got rid of chatter on both of my Hyundais. Never had chatter on my Ford.


Oil additive clash is overstated, BTW. Most oils have the same additive packages to meet the same specs e.g. Dexos 1. There are slight variations in qty in PPM in the additives.
 
#27 ·
I run 0w40 in my trucks, car and 4 wheelers. Year round actually.

Never had any issues. Best in winter though.


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