Oil Leak - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
 
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#1 Old 05-29-2007, 09:07 PM
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Well, thanks to this forum and the HMA service site, I have been doing more and more of my own work.

Ever since 30,000 miles, my car would have a slight burning smell when pushing it up steeper mountains. Later on, it would progress to burning when I was at highway speeds on a slight incline. I have had it in to service several times before and after warrenty to have a look (I even took the service manager of a Hyundai dealer for a drive to prove it) but noone could ever find anything wrong.

Two weeks ago I had all of my belts replaced at a local Hyundai Dealer and asked them to check for an obvious leak, but still no one could see anything. By now, I'm losing about 1-2 quarts every 3000 miles depending on how many mountains I drive over.

So here we are today at just over 110,500 miles and while doing my second self-oil change tonight I noticed a rather large drippage.

I will attempt to post images for you all to see. As I am rather new to the mechanic's world, I do not know the name of the area where the leak is, but it is by the driver-side front wheel, across from the oil pan.

Thanks again for all of your past and future help!















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#2 Old 05-29-2007, 10:39 PM
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I guess I forgot to actually ask the question...

What is this area called that is leaking? How much would you think is it to fix. My guess is it is a main seal, and very complex / expensive to fix.
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#3 Old 05-30-2007, 12:50 AM
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looks lke your transmissions seals leaking
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#4 Old 05-30-2007, 12:58 AM
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Like I said, I'm new to working on cars, so what would that leak affect? I have the 5 speed manual tranny.

Thanks for the input
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#5 Old 05-30-2007, 03:32 AM
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The transmission case is really too wet with oil to tell where the actual leak is, although it looks like one or two case bolts may be loose. I would check the torque on those oily case bolts right off. Take a rag and dampen it with gasoline and wipe every bit of that leaking oil off the tranny case, the case bolts, and the underside of the car in that area. Then check under the car the next day or so, and see how much new oil has leaked, and from exactly where. The easiest way to see where a leak is coming from is to find the leak when it first starts to show, and not wait until the leaked oil has had a chance to migrate and splash onto other uninvolved parts of the car.

You can never rule out the possibility that a dishonest mechanic loosened a bolt or two, purposefully causing a leak, in order to get your car back in the shop at some later date. It seems very suspicious that you say you had belts replaced and the dealer did not tell you of the oil leaking under your car. I can't believe they would miss that.

It might be that the tranny drain bolt (right between the two bolts full of oil in your photos) is not completely tight, or in need of a new gasket. Unlikely, but easy to check out.

It could also be that a main case gasket is failing, or even a seal (the rear main crank seal is a possibility) or gasket somewhere inside of the tranny has failed, allowing oil to collect on the inside of the transmission case, possibly right above where the oil is leaking out.

There could be quite a few things causing this, but you first want to determine exactly where the oil is getting out, so clean up the case real good, and then keep an eye out for any fresh oil, and try to determine, if possible, the exact point where it is emerging.

If it was the rear main crank seal leaking I'd guess that the oil would be pooling in the lower part of the bell housing. I'd expect the flywheel inspection shield should be just full of leaked oil....motor oil...not gear oil. In fact, try to determine if the leaking oil is motor oil, or gear oil. This should narrow your diagnosis. It looks to have a reddish tinge in your photos. That would make me think it was gear oil. Also, if the tranny is leaking gear oil, it should be obvious if you check the tranny's gear oil level.
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#6 Old 05-30-2007, 10:14 AM
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I'll give it a look tonight if I get out of work early enough. Thanks!
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#7 Old 06-05-2007, 07:48 AM
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The best way i think is to shampoo the engine and then look closely to see where the leak is.... It could be anywhere.
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#8 Old 06-05-2007, 06:05 PM
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This problem has been put on hold until I get the car back from the dealer due to a stalling problem. Check my other topic for information. I think I narrowed down the leak to a corner of the valve cover (I changed the gasket about 1 month ago) and I re-torqued the 2 suspect bolts. Until I get the stalling problem fixed, this will have to wait.
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#9 Old 06-13-2007, 03:20 PM
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I think I found the culprit. There is some major oil seepage from the back-right-most bolt on the valve cover. I just changed the gasket a couple months ago because of a leak in the front. So I pulled the cover off and cleaned everything down with a dry cloth. I found a chip of the old gasket (no idea how I missed this when I changed it before) stuck in the groove where the gasket meets the cover. I cleared the chip and put it all back together, but it still is seeping out.

My guess is that something is slightly warped at that end, and was wondering if I can use permatex ultra blue RTV to seal it better. If I can, should I apply it to both sides of the gasket? How should I prepare the surface(s)? How long should I let the car sit before I can run it. The RTV states a 1 hour dry time / 24 hour cure time and I do not want to cause damage or ruin my efforts on this.

Thanks!
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#10 Old 06-13-2007, 07:02 PM
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If you think you found the culprit (the piece of old gasket that you overlooked), then why are you looking for yet another culprit (something warped)? Clear up one thing at a time before you get yourself so frustrated you vow to never work on cars again...a very easy thing to do. If you torqued down the new valvecover gasket onto that piece of old gasket you may very well have smashed the new gasket. In that case you can try a permatex product to build up the smashed place, but the only answer may turn out to be purchasing yet another new gasket. Just keep reminding yourself that even if you need to end up doing this, you are still very far ahead of the game, financially. If you don't believe that, sit right down, call your local Hyundai dealer, and ask how much they want to replace a valvecover gasket.

I seriously doubt the head is warped...the valvecover may be. You should be able to check the valvecover flange for warpage by laying a strightedge ruler along the gasket surface, or laying the valvecover itself on a very flat surface. Also, look very carefully at the gasket surface on the head...I've seen quite a bit of poor machining of the valvecover gasket surfaces in various brands of cars over the years. You could use a small ruler for checking the flatness of that also. If you find a bad place there are all sorts of products you can use to file or grind down high places, or build up low places, if it comes to that. I doubt it will.

There are so many Permatex form-a-gasket products now on the market it is about impossible to keep track on all the names, but the particular one you mention is probably the right choice. I would suggest you do exactly what the directions recommend.
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