Hi,
I can go out and start the car, when it is cool, and it will run fine, for about 10 minutes. After that, it dies. It will not start after it dies. Wait about 2 minutes and it will start up and run like crap. When you step on the gas it bogs down and dies, like it is starving for fuel. I replaced the fuel pump assembly and this model does not have an external fuel filter. It is not throwing any codes. It idles all over the place after it is restarted. You can drive, about a quarter mile and then it is dead again, bogs down and dies.
Some info from my scanner:
DTC_CNT 0
Fuel SYS1 CL
Load pct% fluctuates 3.1 - 3.5
ECT 90
MAP 44
RPM 784 - 905
VSS 0
Spark ADV. all over 1.5 - 24.5 -7- -15
o2B1S1(V) .200
02B1S2(V) .025
Just a hunch.... ecu coolant sensor. Figure out which one that is... it's probably mounted on the thermostat housing... and unplug it. Does it run better unplugged?
This sounds like it could be related to my problem. Whatever it is. No code, it just stopped and won't run nicely until it cools. Dealership totally ignored my description of what happened and blamed it on the battery.
I am starting to think it may be the coils. When they get hot, it can cause no spark and the engine to die. After a couple of minutes, not strong enough spark to cause the idle numbers and spark numbers, I got, to be all over the place. I am still open to other thoughts and ideas.
a very good thought. prove it before replacing parts. get yourself a spark indicator light. i got one for $3 at wal-mart. all you do is hold the end on a plug wire and the light flashes when a pulse is sent to the plug to make spark. when it starts to give you hassle, that would confirm your coil theory. you can always get someone to crank the engine while you do this if necessary.
the problem is any sensor can fail like this if its already on its way out and heat pushes it further...does it stall rather abruptly or does it try to keep limping along for a bit?
another thought might be doing a compression test while its in that hot and not running so well state. just be VERY careful with the plugs/tester. its easier to cross thread the plug threads in the head when its hot which is why you always hear replace your plugs when cold. i'm wondering if you have something like a head gasket failure that is only really presenting itself when things start to expand under heat...maybe a cylinder to cylinder break. i remember my old car had the reverse - it would burn coolant until it got hot then the gasket would magically seal
a very good thought. prove it before replacing parts. get yourself a spark indicator light. i got one for $3 at wal-mart. all you do is hold the end on a plug wire and the light flashes when a pulse is sent to the plug to make spark. when it starts to give you hassle, that would confirm your coil theory. you can always get someone to crank the engine while you do this if necessary.
the problem is any sensor can fail like this if its already on its way out and heat pushes it further...does it stall rather abruptly or does it try to keep limping along for a bit?
I will go to wal mart and pick up a spark light. I should have one anyways.
The car tries to keep going. It bogs down and stalls, like it is out of gas. When it starts back up, its idle is all over the place and that is when I get the crazy spark advance readings. If I give it too much gas, on the restart, it will die immediately.
Coils is a pretty good guess. Look for burning/tracking marks on the coil.
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