Cel P1402 & P1403 - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
 
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#1 Old 08-13-2011, 11:18 PM
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azwildcatz10
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Hi all, this is my 1st post as I just purchased a 2002 accent gl. On test drive the car ran great so I purchased it for a great price from a private dealer. After going through emissions the car failed because of the P1402 and P1403 error codes. The issue was the check engine light wasn't on. Apparently the seller removed the CEL bulb so that he could sell the car. **** but not the end of the world since it was a great deal. Upon researching this and other sites for these codes I cannot determine what the heck the dtml is? where its located? and what the process is for replacing it? I had someone tell me that it is the purge valve under the rear bumper while others say it is in the engine compartment. Any clarification from someone with the same problem would be extremely helpful. I have no P1401 code or problems filling up at the pump.
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#2 Old 08-13-2011, 11:33 PM
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DTML is a pump & valve module... Under left rear of car.

Walk into dealer and tell part fella you want a DTML module... if he/she worth anything, they'll know what you want.. Part is fairly simple to change, but mildly pricey... over 100, but less than $200 I think it is..we only see a couple a yr at our place

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#3 Old 08-14-2011, 05:08 PM
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azwildcatz10
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Thanks for the quick response. I appreciate the info and help.
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#4 Old 04-01-2012, 01:19 PM
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ashishm02
I have the same issue. I put the new DM-TL in and erased the codes, but P1403 came back. Do I have to replace the charcoal canister also?

Its getting expensive. The DM-TL was 300 bucks and couldn't find any in the junkyard
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#5 Old 04-01-2012, 09:03 PM
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As sbr711 hinted, it's really rare for the module to go bad.
Do some investigation before throwing (expensive) parts at it.

I'll post later with more info on this problem.

Do you live where cars rust?

Jim
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#6 Old 04-01-2012, 09:38 PM
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View topic - Codes
Quote:
Hyundai specific DTCs are as follows:

P1402: Fuel tank leakage diagnostic module - motor malfunction
P1403: Fuel tank leakage diagnostic module - valve malfunction

Excellent explanation of the module function here:
2002 hyundai accent code p1401 what or where to fix and find problem - JustAnswer

and:
Fix the P1404 Code on a Kia Spectra and where is the DMTL connector? - JustAnswer

and:
2001 Hyundai Accent Problem Problems 01

Diagnostic testing needs to be done to determine IF the module is getting the necessary signals for it to run. Then, if it IS, measurement of the exact current draw, which indicates the integrity of the vapor system.

Attached diagram is my sketch of the module internal circuitry.

Bottom line: Hold off buying any expensive parts for now.

Jim
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File Type: gif Self_Diagnosis_Module.gif (33.6 KB, 33 views)
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#7 Old 04-02-2012, 11:40 AM
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ashishm02
Thanks for the info Jim. Actually, I had removed the connector of the old DM-TL and saw that one of the pins was completely rusted and broken off. So, I had to buy a new DM-TL anyways.

But, you are right about the testing part. Do you have steps on how to test it(I am a newbie when it comes to electrical testing)? I have taken it to the dealership for other issues and did not like the outcome, so I want to solve this issue on my own. The only problem is that my inspection time is up and have to get it re-inspected, hence the rush.

Also, I opened the Kia JustAnswer, but the images are missing. I guess it is because its been so many years since that post was created.

Any help you can provide me would be very beneficial. By the way, my charcoal canister has also gone bad which caused the gas not filling up issue. Just wanted to put that out there in case that was important.


Thanks,
Ashish
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#8 Old 04-02-2012, 04:44 PM
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You could test the module, but seems silly if it is a new module.
Do test for +12V at the connector Pin #4.

To test if the module is receiving necessary signal(s), splice into the wire from Pin #2 and #1 (separately). That should read +12V normally and then each go to near zero volts as the valve and the pump motor are commanded ON.

It may be important to test the vapor system for leakage, independent of the module.
I made the attached adapter from a Fernco 2" QwikCap and a piece of 1/8" pipe.
The Fernco slips on the fuel filler opening and can be tightened leak-free.
Then, rig up some kind of U-Tube manometer (Google it) using clear plastic tubing. Put a TEE in the line from the Fernco to the U-Tube. Blow into the TEE opening and watch the water level in the U-Tube. Arrange thigs so that water can not go back into the filler opening!

But first, block off the hoses coming from the module/canister.
There are 2 skinny hoses and 1 fat hose. You can (gently) clamp them off or insert plugs.
From JustAnswer.com:


This will isolate the module/canister from the system and allow you to build pressure in the vapor system.
A difference in level of the water of 12" corresponds to roughly 1/2 psi.

You should be able to easily blow in enough air to get that pressure. Then pinch off the line you blow into and the system should maintain that pressure for several minutes at least.

The alternative is to manually signal the module to run:
+12V to Pin #4.
Ground Pin #2 and #1.

The valve will close off and the pump will run to build pressure.

Instead of Grounding Pin #1 directly, connect a milliamp meter between Pin #1 and Ground. That will monitor the pump motor current as pressure builds.

To summarize:
Do some kind of test to determine if the system is leak-free.
That answer will provide the fork-in-the-road for where to go next.

Jim
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#9 Old 04-10-2012, 12:37 PM
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ashishm02
So, it seems like the DM-TL is working now(P1403 went away), but the check engine light came back - this time for P0442. This light only comes on when the gas gets below 75%. So, I will have to check the neck filler and all the hoses, I guess.


Thanks,
Ashish
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#10 Old 04-10-2012, 01:06 PM
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This page has a detailed explanation (generic, not just for Hyundai):
OBD II Code P0442 : RepairPal

When I did the pressure test on one car, I couldn't get the system to hold any pressure at all. Nothing was obviously wrong. In desperation, I took the whole fuel filler neck assembly out (see attached pic). The design is such that mud and road salt get packed in around the filler pipes and no amount of car washing will clean it out.

We also found leaks in the steel vapor line from canister to fuel tank.

Yours may not be anything like this but worth noting what can happen.

Jim
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