You could test the module, but seems silly if it is a new module.
Do test for +12V at the connector Pin #4.
To test if the module is receiving necessary signal(s), splice into the wire from Pin #2 and #1 (separately). That should read +12V normally and then each go to near zero volts as the valve and the pump motor are commanded ON.
It may be important to test the vapor system for leakage, independent of the module.
I made the attached adapter from a Fernco 2" QwikCap and a piece of 1/8" pipe.
The Fernco slips on the fuel filler opening and can be tightened leak-free.
Then, rig up some kind of U-Tube manometer (Google it) using clear plastic tubing. Put a TEE in the line from the Fernco to the U-Tube. Blow into the TEE opening and watch the water level in the U-Tube. Arrange thigs so that water can not go back into the filler opening!
But first, block off the hoses coming from the module/canister.
There are 2 skinny hoses and 1 fat hose. You can (gently) clamp them off or insert plugs.
This will isolate the module/canister from the system and allow you to build pressure in the vapor system.
A difference in level of the water of 12" corresponds to roughly 1/2 psi.
You should be able to easily blow in enough air to get that pressure. Then pinch off the line you blow into and the system should maintain that pressure for several minutes at least.
The alternative is to manually signal the module to run:
+12V to Pin #4.
Ground Pin #2 and #1.
The valve will close off and the pump will run to build pressure.
Instead of Grounding Pin #1 directly, connect a milliamp meter between Pin #1 and Ground. That will monitor the pump motor current as pressure builds.
Do some kind of test to determine if the system is leak-free.
That answer will provide the fork-in-the-road for where to go next.