2000 Elantra Transmission Troubleshooting Help - Page 3 - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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#21 Old 05-11-2009, 04:20 PM
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cjd1467
Hi,

I'm having a similar problem with my transmission. If I start the car and put it directly into reverse, it does nothing-it acts like it is in neutral. However, if I first shift into drive and then into reverse, I get reverse. Unfortunately, the check engine light is on and I subsequently failed my inspection for a sticker. The computer used at the inspection station returned an error code of P1624 and I haven't been able to find the code at all on hmaservice.com.

I'm not a mechanic and any repairs for this is likely going to be very expensive-I've taken it to Ammco and Cotman's and they both just want to dump another tranny(at @$2200 which the car isn't worth) into the car and haven't given me ANY indication of the problem or the meaning of the error code. If its something relatively simple, I have a friend who can take care of it.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,
~Chris
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#22 Old 05-12-2009, 06:09 AM
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rdavis55
From what I've read, P1624 is only the trans control module [tcm] telling the engine control module [ecm] that it detected an issue with the trans [mil code pending]
It also seems that either the ecm or the tcm can be scanned for trouble codes.
The tcm needs to be scanned to get the actual code. This may show another code as per this list
It may be one of the speed sensors located at the rear edge [left hand end near wheel] of the trans, these are a common problem, or it may just need the plug pulled out and sprayed with some contact cleaner.
There's two speed sensors which check input speed to output speed of the trans with their two wire cables connecting to the same socket on top of the trans case.
They're not very expensive and fairly easy to replace.
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#23 Old 05-17-2009, 06:17 AM
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rdavis55
Have finished fitting the new kick drum and the car runs sweet again.
While I was at it, I tried unplugging all electrics off the trans with the engine running and reverse and drive would still engage.
Another thing I noticed was that initially with the car still on stands, that it would not upshift to 2nd?? I then thought maybe it's because the rear hatch and/or the drivers door is still open.
Sure enough, after closing them the trans upshift through all the gears. Is that right?? I'll have to try that again to be sure.
If so, dodgy switches could explain some ppl who still have reverse but are stuck in 1st.
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#24 Old 03-10-2010, 11:23 PM
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rod_lancaster
Hey Rove and everyone, thanks for the pix and info! I have a mechanical failure in the trans of my 2000 elantra. It won't run in 4th gear and I got a P0734, so I pulled the pan and found broken up parts (shims?) in there. I'm contemplating removing the thing myself, but I've got a few questions. I got the trans removal procedure from hmaservice.com, but the pix are pretty crummy and it's not well written.

So, can anyone tell me,

1) How you get the torque converter unbolted from the engine?
2) Is it tricky dealing with the CV joint and suspension disassembly? Anything I need to know there?
3) Did you use a trans jack? and if yes, will I be able to get the trans out from underneath the vehicle if it's on jackstands?
4) I'm planning to make my engine support rig out of 4x4 lumber, cuz I don't have a welder to fab up a rig like yours.
5) I think the end clutch may be the cause of my trans ordeal. Can this be replaced? Have you ever replaced this?

This would be my first trans removal, so I could use some support.

So, if you're still around here, please write back! I'd really appreciate it!

P.S. I gotta hand it to you Aussies - you guys got huge balls, tearing into a trans like that! 8)
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#25 Old 03-15-2010, 02:34 PM
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gedanjj
QUOTE (ventolin @ Feb 10 2009, 10:39 AM)
Quote:
Thanks Byron,
hmaservice is an excellent resource!

I reset the computer the way you mentioned. It worked!! I got reverse....... for 5 minutes
I pulled it out of the garage and let it warm up for 5 min while i prepared to take it for a test drive. As soon as i went to back out of the driveway... no reverse. I tried resetting a couple of times again with no luck...

So i decided it was time to get more familliar with the hamservice website. I checked the shift cable alignment. I also found the procedure to check the pulse gen sensors. It turns out that they both have been changed and they both test good. i used my scantool to veryify that the computer was receiving good information from the pulse gen's and they checked out OK.

I also noticed that there was a feture on my scan tool that allowed me to activate the transmission solenoids individually. I tried all the forward soleniods and could hear them actuate and was able to watch the gear position value change. Hoever, when i tried to actuate reverse i got no sound and no gear position value change.

So my guess is that either the solenoid is not getting the signal to actuate or the solenoid is not able to function properly.
Which means replacing the TCM or the solenoid pack.

Any thoughts?
I'm curious....what kind of scantool do you have? The one I have just reads and clears codes.
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#26 Old 12-27-2013, 01:13 PM
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2000 Elantra- bought a new transmission.. it's a 4 prong. Original transmission was a 6 prong anyway to adapt?
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#27 Old 01-30-2014, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nestes View Post
2000 Elantra- bought a new transmission.. it's a 4 prong. Original transmission was a 6 prong anyway to adapt?
Not Feasible! AT minimum, you would need a new wire harness and computer.
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#28 Old 01-30-2014, 05:25 AM
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2000 Hyundai Transmission Malfunction - LOSS of 2nd, O/D and REVERSE

OBDII CODES: P1624, P0722, P0732, AND P0734


2000 Hyundai Elantra 4spd O/D automatic transmission shifting malfunction/failure

As this is an old post, I wanted to add some clarifications. LOSS of Second gear, O/D (or fourth gear), AND loss of reverse (KEY WORD "AND") **This gear loss combination ONLY**:


This occurs when the splines if the ALUMINUM Kickdrum get shredded.

MANUALLY CAUSED DAMAGE:

This is CAUSED by a VERY HARD down shift (such as aggressive passing), Manually downshifting to Second gear (or First gear - while well above lockout speeds) at speeds exceeding 50mph (approx), OR shifting into REVERSE WHILE VEHICLE IS IN FORWARD MOTION (any forward motion, but usually above 10mph).

MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL MALFUNCTION:

ADDITIONAL FAILURE: The ABOVE also is often caused BY a shifting MALFUNCTION which is caused by a DAMAGED wiring harness INSIDE the transmission. (Avg occurrence at 120k+miles)
Technical: Internal wiring harness damage due to prolonged heat exposure (hardening of wiring insulation, stiffening), AND CHAFFING of the wiring insulation against shift-control-input side of valve body assembly, where VIBRATION against the body causes intermittent solenoid control malfunctions or incorrectly timed activation, leading to physical damages.
INSPECT/REPLACE KICK DRUM (with re-designed STEEL-HUB version), REPLACE internal wiring harness if ANY damage or wear is visible!

DISCLOSURE: A SCAN-TOOL capable of TESTING AND ACTUATING SOLENOIDS (not just a CODE READER) WILL BE REQUIRED FOR ACCURATE TESTING of Soleniods, wiring, history codes, pulse generator ( A&B ) functions, speed sensor, as well as all functions of the TCM.

CODES PRESENT: P1624 (MIL REQUEST from TCM), P0722 (Pulse generator - gear out-of sync malfunction), P0732 (Second gear ratio incorrect), P0734 (Fourth gear/Overdrive gear ratio incorrect), as well as a few other possible codes such as temp, or other malfunctions caused by wiring shorts. TCM damage IS POSSIBLE as well (keep this in mind and have PROFESSIONALLY CHECKED, by a QUALIFIED HYUNDAI MECHANIC or a transmission mechanic with TRUE SCAN-TOOL-FLASH CAPABILITY

FOOTNOTE: ALSO CHECK FOR CURRENT SOFTWARE!

(I REALLY HATE seeing lots of questions and VERY FEW ANSWERS! I REALLY HOPE THIS HELPS future readers.)

This stuff CAN be VERY TECHNICAL and goes FAR BEYOND "turning wrenches". Learn to use the car's computer as your friend, not as a "complication" that makes fixing cars harder. Even though the computer MAY not always seem to be correct in identifying a problem, there is ALWAYS a connection between a 'mis-reported' malfunction and the REAL malfunction. Open circuits and bad grounds, as well as short circuits can wreak havoc! (There IS a DIFFERENCE between "SHORT CIRCUIT" and "OPEN CIRCUIT"!)
If YOU DO NOT KNOW THE DIFFERENCE, PUT DOWN THE WRENCHES, SCREW DRIVERS AND HAMMER, UNTIL YOU DO!!!

Great job to rdavis55 for his contribution to this thread!
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#29 Old 03-04-2014, 04:45 PM
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Having now had the time to fully remove the transmission guts, I have several conclusions that should help ALL Elantra and Accent models, as well as Toyota Matrix, and a few others that use ANY of the following transmissions:

A4AF1, A4Af2, A4BF1, A4BF2, and A4BF3 (otherwise known as "Baby KM's)

Before driving yourself NUTS, PULL THE PAN!!!

Changing your fluid and filter does MORE than just keep things happy... it ALERTS you to problems!

WHAT is sitting in the pan!? Shaving? (Kick drum), Chunks? (Gear damage), black grit? (clutches or band burnout), round pins? (O/D end play thrust bearing, causing loss of O/D and occasionally reverse), shreds of what looks like plastic or nylon (pump seal rings) pieces of brass (bushings) and last but not least LITTLE PIECES OF RUBBER! (input shaft "O" rings)
ANY loss of pressure, anywhere, results in failure to lockup a clutch somewhere. ALL of these designs, although often improved, MISS one valuable consideration: DISALLOW ANY SHAFT MOVEMENT! (MINIMAL END PLAY IS CRITICAL!)

Because the Planetary gear set and overdrive drum are diagonal toothed gears they push/pull the input shaft, essentially slamming the O/D hub against the thrust bearing, which weakens from heat, and shatters it. Shaft movement also shreds "O" rings, causing blow-by and pressure losses (slipping or complete failure).

Scenario: Car experiences cylinder loss during acceleration (misfire?).. This jarring slams the input shaft into and out of the Torque Converter, ALL of your gear assemblies, bearings and seals. VERY BAD!

FURTHER: IF you experience ANY hard slamming during any shifting, you can EXPECT that you will shatter the end bearing (thrust), and even destroy your differential, by shearing the main pin! (which whacks at the transmission casing (internally) until inevitable EXPLOSION of the output drive.

I'm dealing with ALL of this, at the moment, in an A4BF3 Hyundai Elantra/Accent transmission teardown, inspection and rebuild video, that I'm creating for YouTube. (My 2000 Elantra GLS Wagon's A4BF3 is the featured tranny, which went through ALL of these "Hard Part" failures.)

(Re-assembly/rebuild pending donor transmission for differential)

I will return with links, once completed
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