Elantra Lifters Problem! Will 20-50 Oil Fix It + Work Ok?! - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
#1 Old 03-08-2013, 11:54 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Puerto Rico, Caribbean!
Elantra 2000
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Joaquin is an unknown quantity at this point
(Thread Starter)
Elantra Lifters Problem! Will 20-50 Oil Fix It + Work Ok?!

Hey Guys,

I've had my car for 12 full years now, since December 2000 here in Puerto Rico, my car facts and issues:

My Hyundai Elantra 2000 facts...
- Always ran in Puerto Rico (temperature usually around 82-95 F usually all year)
- Once/Twice a month I pull my 750 LBS jetski + trailer since 2001
- 2001-2010 = 10/30 standard oil
- 2010-2013= mobile 1 full synthetic 10/30 oil (supposed to be good)
- Current miles = 84,000 miles

Issue I am having:

- Heavy lifters noise, BIG ONE since 2011
- I replaced with new ones in 2011 (they were charged correctly) and the noise still kept going immediately after installing all new lifters
- After the usual 4-5 months 10/30 mobile 1 fully synthetic oil change generally between 3,000-5,000 miles oil change, there's hardly any old oil coming out
- New synthetic oil gets in, but after 3-4 days the lifters start with the heavy noise again and the noise gets worse after using the car for 40-50 minutes on the road

I've been doing my research and among the many online suggestions from other lifter noise issues is to begin using 20-50 oil even if the user manual says 5-30 or 10-30 for typical cars like mine, but since my car is closing in to 100,000 miles soon and always is in hot weather...

..will changing from fully synthetic 10/30 oil to 20-50 think oil quiet down my lifters and NOT harm my car? I've read if it's supposed to be 10/30 or what the manual says it should be that, fine, but in my situation in Puerto Rico weather

and with the lifters ugly noise..will 20-50 oil do good to my car taking all of the above history in mind?

What you think?



P.S- Thanks in advance so much for your input, it means a lot! I just finished sanding down + primer, I'll now paint the car for the first time!

Last edited by Joaquin; 03-08-2013 at 11:59 PM.
Joaquin is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#2 Old 03-09-2013, 07:28 PM
Senior Member
 
jsinton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Inverness, Florida
'99 Elantra Wagon '03 Kia Sedona
Posts: 4,505
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
jsinton is an unknown quantity at this point
If you replaced the lifters and it made no difference, wouldn't logic dictate the problem isn't your lifters? Did you do a compression check? Sounds like new motor time.

jsinton is offline  
#3 Old 03-10-2013, 03:51 AM
senior member
 
Em-squared's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: near Portland, OR
2012 Nissan Leaf SL; 2012 Nissan X-Terra Pro-4X
Posts: 6,837
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Em-squared is an unknown quantity at this point
Garage
Joaquin!

Fashionista.



Former driver of 2011 Elantra Limited no tech, and 2010 Genesis Coupe 3.8 Track
Em-squared is offline  
#4 Old 03-10-2013, 02:26 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Puerto Rico, Caribbean!
Elantra 2000
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Joaquin is an unknown quantity at this point
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Em-squared View Post
Joaquin!
Thanks for the welcome
Joaquin is offline  
#5 Old 03-10-2013, 02:33 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Puerto Rico, Caribbean!
Elantra 2000
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Joaquin is an unknown quantity at this point
(Thread Starter)
Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by jsinton View Post
If you replaced the lifters and it made no difference, wouldn't logic dictate the problem isn't your lifters? Did you do a compression check? Sounds like new motor time.
Thanks for your input here. My mechanic did the changes which makes me re-think if he charge them right or did the job correct. I have not done a compression check and that has been suggested once yesterday online.

Here's an answer I recently received that might be interesting for both of us, I might not need a new motor actually, what you think? I did not change the cams when the mechanic added new lifters..

Another answer to my problem...

Quote:
WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG!!! NEVER use THICKER engine oil! You have internal issues here You cannot replace LIFTERS without changing the CAM along with it! LIFTERs are just small oi l pumps and get sludged Up with bad oil! use a THOROUGH motor flush and use MOBI LONE 0W-30 oil NOT THICKER OIL! You wil RUIn what you already have there. It was a MISTAKE to change the lifters without the cam as well. They wear TOGETHER over time. and the ORIGINAL lifters will only get CLOGGED UP and not wear out! BIG MISTAKE! It is POSSIBLE that the oil feed pores in your HEAD GAKSET are clgged up with slduge and prevent your lifters from getting oilat ALL! check the ROCKER and CAM bolts for torque. Those engiens are AWESOME and long lasting. NEVER use such THICK OIL or you will blow up the OIL PUMP and PISTON RINGS, too! GOOD LUCK anyways!
What you/you guys think of the above answer?

Will have in mind the compression check, I am still thinking that a motor flush and 20-50 oil might be good option for my end, now I am still trying to make final conclusions on whether 20-50 oil will harm my car/brake my engine.

I just sanded down the car and painting it for the first time, I am hoping a big motor change won't be needed.

What you guys think? Motor flush, compression check and 20-50 oil will do good?

I don't have much ideas here as I am not a mechanic, just trying to understand how this work so I don't make another bad decision on $spend$ mode of the car.

Additional seconds in answers will be soooooo appreciated!
Joaquin is offline  
#6 Old 03-10-2013, 07:06 PM
Senior Member
 
jsinton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Inverness, Florida
'99 Elantra Wagon '03 Kia Sedona
Posts: 4,505
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
jsinton is an unknown quantity at this point
Don't waste your time with the 20w/50. If the motor is shyted, ain't no oil gonna help. Do the compression test, it will tell you all you need to know. Sounds to me like the motor is shot, and burns all the oil. Isn't there huge clouds of smoke?

jsinton is offline  
#7 Old 03-10-2013, 07:49 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Puerto Rico, Caribbean!
Elantra 2000
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Joaquin is an unknown quantity at this point
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsinton View Post
Don't waste your time with the 20w/50. If the motor is shyted, ain't no oil gonna help. Do the compression test, it will tell you all you need to know. Sounds to me like the motor is shot, and burns all the oil. Isn't there huge clouds of smoke?
Will definitely do the compression test, just makes sense (as I don't even remember doing that anytime soon), but one thing that I certainly can confirm is that there ain't no dark/or white cloudy smoke.

Spent $270 on all the paint material + $500 to have it painted with me and a friend of mine, just can't start to imagine breaking this baby now..I even tow my jetski with this and absolutely no problems and never has left me walking..so can't quit on this car now.

I'm sure not buying more lifters now..must be something else, will exhaust all the possible alternatives this upcoming week and will see what I get from the mechanic.. $oh baby!$



Thanks a lot for the suggestions so far mate!
Joaquin is offline  
#8 Old 03-13-2013, 08:27 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Drives 1.6 Lantra GSI Estate 2000 and also have a 1.6 Lantra GSI Saloon 1999
Posts: 502
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
EdGasket
Quote "change generally between 3,000-5,000 miles oil change, there's hardly any old oil coming out"
Can you clarify this please? Are you saying that between oil changes you don't check the oil level or top it up? If you have allowed the oil level to run low then that would explain why your top-end has worn.
10w/40 semi-synth is fine for these motors; they weren't designed for and can't take fully-synth; will burn it and leak it; probably why you use up all your oil and nothing much is left to come out at the next change.
EdGasket is offline  
#9 Old 03-13-2013, 11:17 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Florida
'12 Elantra Sedan '12 Chevy Malibu '11 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 And yes, I drive them all.
Posts: 1,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Easy Rider is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joaquin View Post
After the usual 4-5 months 10/30 mobile 1 fully synthetic oil change generally between 3,000-5,000 miles oil change, there's hardly any old oil coming out
-
Back to basics first.
Just exactly what does the above mean ??

Taken at face value, it sounds like you are never checking the oil level between changes and you are leaking or burning a LOT more oil now and if you keep doing that, you will eventually damage your engine beyond repair. The lifters are chattering due to a lack of oil !!!

In my opinion, it was a bad move to change to synthetic so late in the engines life. Not likely that was really the cause of anything but it might have made an existing condition worse.

At this point, I suggest a 10W40 conventional "high mileage" oil AND checking the oil at least twice a week. When it gets down to the add mark, change it again. After that, just add as necessary.

If you need to add a quart more often than every 1000 miles, there may be enough engine wear that there is nothing you can do to help the oil loss.

Also, forget that "motor flush" and other snake oil treatments. They will only make matters worse.

Last edited by Easy Rider; 03-13-2013 at 11:21 AM.
Easy Rider is offline  
#10 Old 07-06-2014, 06:39 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Frggn Brandon,Central-WestCoast Fl. In UnUnified.S.A.
00`Chevy Blazer,189K miles Never have had to fix anything but tires,Brake pads and a few batterys,01
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
charrliy525 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thats alot of b.s. and wasted time learning everything you dont need to know,BY THE BOOK FOR THE CAR AT ANY PARTS STORE,Ecery 50K or 60K might be less miles cant remember off hand,But your supose to pull the cams(Usually when you change the timen belt at 50K)And remove each lifter cap on 2001 plus,Complete lifter on 2000 and back and measure them to see if there within spec.They never are,But half of them usually can be swapped over to another spot that needs that size and only have to buy new ones for the places that are wore out of spec and one that is worn but specs out for another worn one You replace it with an old one that fits,Then buy the correct size needed for remaining lifters or measure them all and the ones out of spec go and buy those new and dont bother switching some over. These cars run forever but never USE SYNTHETIC OIL UNLESS YOU OWN A RACE CAR OR 500H.P. MOTOR,IT HAS TEFLON IN IT AND GUMS UP ALL THE LITTLE PORTS IN ALL 4 BANGERS N 6 BANGERS ETC. ALSO THE MAINTNANCE SCHEDULE IS VERY SHORT TERM FOR EVERYTHING COMPARED TO ALL OTHER MAKES OF CARS N TRUNCKS BUT THERE PARTS ARE CHEAP.Why anyone would replace the lifters only beats me.BUY THE BOOK AND DO THE MAINTNANCE AT ITS TIME AND ALL WELL.I`m at 101,000 and only changed the power pump,But have done all the other stuff when it was time to,Change timen belt,Tranny fluid n filter,gas filter,Run nothing but Valvoline 10w40 in our !30 degree florida heat.Good luck to anyone who reads this post,hope i helped straiten it out.
charrliy525 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome