My Mission: 2.0l Turbo To 300hp, How can this be done for as little cash as possible? Options

[JohnIrvine1]

still planning on a turbo?

[mac1]

Hey now did I sound serious? My bad, hope I can redeem myself when I say "I built my turbo car, not bought a turbo car". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/banana.gif)

I think that is one of the dumbest things I have ever read on a car forum.Wow.

[25psitalon]

Hey now did I sound serious? My bad, hope I can redeem myself when I say "I built my turbo car, not bought a turbo car". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/banana.gif)

You typed a stupid response.Are you saying you were being sarcastic?Why would you suggest that to someone?
Thats good you "built" probe...I built my engine from the bearings up too, not a stock component to it..sooo...dunno where you were going like that. Am I supposed to be impressed?Lets not forget 1g probes came turbo chraged too...and while your 1660 hp KL-DE didn't come turbo charged, it certainly has no where near the respect and following the 4g63 does.. I had a 95 gt and it was a fun car but slow as balls...What times and horsepower numbers does this "monster" turbo probe have? Pics? Dyno? Not doubting you, just curious to see what you have done as those KL-DE are not powerful by any means without a lot of work.

This post has been edited by 25psitalon: Nov 12 2009, 10:00 PM

[mac1]

dont care to share pics as my setup is always changing cosmetically. I cant compare with a low compression 4 banger and tiny snail that puts out 25psi. My car wasn't made to be boosted so tranny's can only take so much but it's good enough to stay out of trouble. I push 5lbs and i'm allready asking to go to jail so with that being said I dont expect to push anything over 300hp without the worry being pulled over. I dont street race and I dont drag race, I dont dyno and I dont show off so I'll leave it to your imagination.
But seriously if this guy wants more power and doesn't want to spend any real money then tapping into the wg and putting on a adjustable APR would be a start. You can always put it back together and bring it in for warranty. This is coming from a former Hyundai tech so I guess I just dont give a rats ****.

[25psitalon]

dont care to share pics as my setup is always changing cosmetically. I cant compare with a low compression 4 banger and tiny snail that puts out 25psi. My car wasn't made to be boosted so tranny's can only take so much but it's good enough to stay out of trouble. I push 5lbs and i'm allready asking to go to jail so with that being said I dont expect to push anything over 300hp without the worry being pulled over. I dont street race and I dont drag race, I dont dyno and I dont show off so I'll leave it to your imagination.
But seriously if this guy wants more power and doesn't want to spend any real money then tapping into the wg and putting on a adjustable APR would be a start. You can always put it back together and bring it in for warranty. This is coming from a former Hyundai tech so I guess I just dont give a rats ****.

Lol...so your "beast" isn't even in the 300 hp mark? The fact you have no pics or anything to prove it "leaving up to imagination" is hilarious and indicates you are full of it..but honestly I could careless..."...its all good though..Im still trying to figure out how a "former tech" would suggest to unhook a wastegate and instal a apr (hope you ment afpr) without any form of monitoring boost or fuel....

This post has been edited by 25psitalon: Nov 13 2009, 11:49 AM

[Orenthal S.]

OP, unless you want to void your warranty, I wouldn't touch the car. If you do want to void your warranty, wait a little while for someone to come out with a pre-tuned piggyback you can buy so you don't have to waste a bunch of money tuning the car. Judging by your questions I am pretty sure you have never tuned a vehicle before.

I see way more potential in the turbo 2 liter tib than the gt.

Just because its easier to get the power doesn't mean the engine is stouter. It's more likely the v6 can produce more power, it has displacement on its side. However, as you said, that power is going to cost you a lot more. Has anyone ripped into the engine yet? Are they cast rods and pistons? What about the crank? Is it an aluminum block? Curious what we are working with here.

dont care to share pics as my setup is always changing cosmetically. I cant compare with a low compression 4 banger and tiny snail that puts out 25psi. My car wasn't made to be boosted so tranny's can only take so much but it's good enough to stay out of trouble. I push 5lbs and i'm allready asking to go to jail so with that being said I dont expect to push anything over 300hp without the worry being pulled over. I dont street race and I dont drag race, I dont dyno and I dont show off so I'll leave it to your imagination.
But seriously if this guy wants more power and doesn't want to spend any real money then tapping into the wg and putting on a adjustable APR would be a start. You can always put it back together and bring it in for warranty. This is coming from a former Hyundai tech so I guess I just dont give a rats ****.

Rofl, an ex-tech obviously knows the size of the turbo is not dependent on how much boost it can take, or where it is most efficient. He would also know that the dealership can read the cpu and see how much boost the car has been seeing, and I am sure Hyundai plans on doing this on said model. And yet again, he would know how to increase boost.

My car wasn't made to be boosted either. But the tranny can take 900whp. Who woulda thunk it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/innocent.gif) Since when do cops pull you over, strap you on the dyno they happen to be transporting in the semi they are driving, and give you a ticket for having over 300hp? Pretty good way to not get pulled over, no matter how much hp you have. It is called "control your right foot".

[mac1]

Ok I think I started something I have to finish here. First of all it is wrong of me to advise someone to do this for legal issues. It started off as a joke then I was forced to go in deeper in explanation for you hot headed slightly ignorant weekend wrenchers (from the sound of it). In theory and when I say in theory I mean what is possible and what is not, this can be done and I know I could get away with it. It doesn't take a genius to know you can get a $60 code puller from autozone and erase the **** codes. It doesn't take a genius to know that if a car was designed for boost, it can take a substantial amount more without hurting nothing for example 2nd gen Tibby GT which can run a 4psi s/c without ANY fuel mods with an auto non the less. The thread starter isn't even reading this anymore so it's just us now going back and fourth.

Some cars were designed out of the factory to be daily drivers and others like muscle cars obviously had different plan. I feel my daily driver is underpowered for what it's chassis can handle but what can I do about it. I'm not comparing cars here just do what you can with what you got. And hopefully what you got is something you really really like and your not just going thru a phase in life like most Honda guys(for example). Chances are most new car buyers tend to be new car buyers who are not to techy which means few years from now they will trade it in for the new better model so you shouldn't invest in a car you do not own. My aforementioned response was an answer to his question but I wasn't showing him were to buy and exactly how to do it. Don't want to get to technical and then have him do it to later be somewhat blamed for a improperly tuned blown engine.

In response to the newb that made his 1st post an overly confident remark, who are you and what's in your garage? Actually I really dont care. Anyways my belief and limited understanding of it is and please tell me if i'm wrong. A tiny turbo like a Mitsu 16g or whatever is in there can boost a lot and quickly as it takes little effort to spin the turbine side. Being that there is only 4 cylinders and 4 intake runners to charge means that if you run a big compressor side it will take less spooling to fill it with the same amount of psi then a smaller cold side. He's probably got a ~.38 a/r and in comparison I run a .63/.50 a/r and have 6 cylinders to charge but only 2.5L so do an educated guess. The setback of my setup is that the stock motor can take upwards of ____hp(if I say it you'll call BS) but the trans cannot take the load and which ever gear happens to be the unlucky one to see these high hp/tq number will inevitably be stripped.

So just for kicks here are some dark and dirty pics, but Like I said it's constantly changing and looks a bit different now. Please comment on my setup and tell if I can do better with what I got. And yes I have MS full standalone.




(IMG:http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/752970/fullsize/100_0238.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/752968/fullsize/100_0237.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/752973/fullsize/100_0236.jpg)

[25psitalon]

Not a bad setup, but you are running it quite inefficiently.With a big turbo, you are moving your power-band higher in the rpm, which is not going to benefit a stock v6 engine...specifically the valve train. Thus people run big turbos on the 4g63. Its already relatively high reving from the factory...7500 rpm redline. And with a cam/valve spring upgrade the rev out in the mid 8s.Combine that with a 4k spool up which helps with traction and you have a good 4 cylinder setup. I find with my 16g, the turbo runs out around 6500. I run cams and know if I bumper to something flowing even 150 cfms more, I could make a ton more power. But its impracticle for my goals.My car is built with every component in the system working together.16gs are a great setup with 264s which I have, and provide more than enough power for my daily driver. The "tiny snail" I run is extremely efficient and provides a strong, smooth power band from 3100 to almost 7k. So when I run into you v6 guys with huge, inefficient setups that spool at 4500-5000 rpms, I put 5 cars on you right off the bat. Not sure where you get the idea that all dsms run 16gs, but the reality is most run 50 trims and holsets. The holsets are a 500-600 hp turbo with a mean top end, but a lack in mid range... Your logic on spool ratios and engine size are slightly out in left field.But I am not interested in typing how a turbo system works...google it.
Oh and dude, dunno what it is about car forums and the "noob" thing but if you wanna get into that, you have been here 5 months, your no vet.

This post has been edited by 25psitalon: Nov 14 2009, 10:25 PM

[mac1]

s'ok, i'm new here but not elsewhere. But to put things into perpective, you should take a look at what my 100+ posts consist of since day one. I think the newb dont even drive a Hyundai and just registered to reply to my post (IMG:style_emoticons/default/00000732.gif) . So all in all we've provided some people here with some sort of usefull knoledge to say the least. Hope it's helpfull to some. And honestly I dont recommend anyone to take my advice IN THIS THREAD as i'm a bit of rule bender, as a matter fact just the other day I had someone with a new Prius that wanted to lower their mileage for lease purposes and I ........................................ never mind that. And since were way off topic allready let's end this on a positive note so this doesn't get closed. Your setup sound like it's built properly and more efficient then mine, but remember you have more options. You also have or had 7.8 to 1 compression and a tranny built for boost so you can get high number like that. I'm pretty sure you pistons have a huge dome dish in them? Aftermarket for what I run is readily available but with few options. The only thing factory in my setup is the bottom end and the trans and axles. Most everything you see is peiced together from other parted out Mazda/Honda/VW cars, ebay, and j/y cross pollenation of parts. That's why it helps to be involved in more then one forum. I've been at this setup for 3 years after trying n/a and s/c trial and error. And with a car like this, even when something is custom made for it you still have to modify it to work. I think the only one thing that has ever worked flawlessly from the get go is the suspension and it's worth more then the car in stock form. I love the turbo and wish I was at Hyundai right now working on the new Genesis. It seems the car hasn't taken off quite as fast as some aftermarket companies would like. Infact over in Cali there's a shop that's been looking for a Coupe test mule to make a new intake for months now and nobody has come forward. Road race engineering has made a module that's PNP for the 3.8L for an added 10hp but who wants a huge 3.8L when you can have a more tuner friendly turbo version. Btw i'm curious which model Hyundai you got or had.

This post has been edited by mac1: Nov 15 2009, 12:30 AM

[25psitalon]

s'ok, i'm new here but not elsewhere. But to put things into perpective, you should take a look at what my 100+ posts consist of since day one. I think the newb dont even drive a Hyundai and just registered to reply to my post (IMG:style_emoticons/default/00000732.gif) . So all in all we've provided some people here with some sort of usefull knoledge to say the least. Hope it's helpfull to some. And honestly I dont recommend anyone to take my advice IN THIS THREAD as i'm a bit of rule bender, as a matter fact just the other day I had someone with a new Prius that wanted to lower their mileage for lease purposes and I ........................................ never mind that. And since were way off topic allready let's end this on a positive note so this doesn't get closed. Your setup sound like it's built properly and more efficient then mine, but remember you have more options. You also have or had 7.8 to 1 compression and a tranny built for boost so you can get high number like that. I'm pretty sure you pistons have a huge dome dish in them? Aftermarket for what I run is readily available but with few options. The only thing factory in my setup is the bottom end and the trans and axles. Most everything you see is peiced together from other parted out Mazda/Honda/VW cars, ebay, and j/y cross pollenation of parts. That's why it helps to be involved in more then one forum. I've been at this setup for 3 years after trying n/a and s/c trial and error. And with a car like this, even when something is custom made for it you still have to modify it to work. I think the only one thing that has ever worked flawlessly from the get go is the suspension and it's worth more then the car in stock form. I love the turbo and wish I was at Hyundai right now working on the new Genesis. It seems the car hasn't taken off quite as fast as some aftermarket companies would like. Infact over in Cali there's a shop that's been looking for a Coupe test mule to make a new intake for months now and nobody has come forward. Road race engineering has made a module that's PNP for the 3.8L for an added 10hp but who wants a huge 3.8L when you can have a more tuner friendly turbo version. Btw i'm curious which model Hyundai you got or had.

Not bad..as for my hyundai, I dont own one and proably never will.Its not they are bad, but they arn't really performance cars and thats all I am into.I do like the gensis coupes but for 25k -30k Im not pushing a hyundai...lol...especially when they depreciate soooo fast.My girlfriend owns a I4 tiburon and I joined seeking information on the engine. All I wanted to know was if I needed a tool to get the crank pulley off so I could change the timing belt..and no one on here could tell me, It appears that most people on this site are cold air intake options than actual mechanical operations/maintenance. Good luck with the probe.

Are you on a probe forum?

This post has been edited by 25psitalon: Nov 15 2009, 10:57 AM

[mac1]

Probe forums is 90% of my online surfing. Here is the other 10% as I just help people with questions when nobody else does. I tend to respond to threads with little to no replys. you got any questions just pm me.