Hello All - New Member Needs Guiadance, XG350 electrical issues Options

[dhykel]

Hello All-

I purchased a XG350 new in 2002, which until recently has been rock-solid reliable.

First, I replaced the original battery in December. In February, acid leaked out the top of the battery, making quite a mess. A faulty voltage regulator was supposedly to blame, so we replaced the battery and installed an after-market alternator.

Now, 2 months later, a yellow check engine light. We pulled the codes, which read P1191 P1193 P0705. I'm guessing P0705 indicates a "Trans Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction", with the sensor being located under the battery.

I'm getting conflicting information about P1191 and P1193 -- any ideas?

Also, could the after-market alternator cause damage the these electrical components?

Trying to gather information before going to the dealer ($$), any guidance would be much appreciated...

[dhykel]

All-

We resolved the check engine light issue by searching hmaservice.com for TSB's related to the specific DTC codes.

P0705 indicated a "Transmisson Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction". This sensor is a small pivoting device located beneath the battery. The malfunction was corrected by following the recommended TSB guidance -- mainly, re-aligning the sensor position relative to the gear shifter cable. This allowed the sensor to correctly detect the shifter position (P,R,N,D). Habitual use of the Tiptronic feature may have contributed to the sensor mis-alignment (Tiptronic is quite addictive).

P1191/P1193 was a paired code indicating the Electronic Throttle Sensor (ETS) had detected engine RPM's of less than 470, resulting in a potential "limp home" mode. TSB #06-36-003 identified several differing possible causes, ranging from a faulty ETS -to- loose connectors -to- carbon buildup around the throttle body. We disassembled the air intake, de-gunked the general area around the ETS, applied dialectic grease to the connectors, and re-seated everything nicely.

Thanks to hyundai-forums for cluing us in to the hmaservice website. Otherwise, it would have been a big fat repair bill from the local dealer...

[m5james]

Well today I picked up some electronic parts cleaner and throttle body cleaner. The car doesn't die suprisingly when I spray TB cleaner directly into the intake while it's running at idle. Removing the MAF (still plugged in, but the tube itself was removed) made the car actually idle normal, but it still won't rev over 3k and the CEL is still on. With the car running and replacing all the tubing, the car died immediately. Once I retighted all the clamps and restarted the car, the idle sucked again, which I think is odd. You would think I was getting a MAF code since it runs differently w/o it or if it was failing, but that's not a code i've gotten at all. I'm cleaning it w/ MAF cleaner and seeing if that solves anything at all. It's still in limp mode, so i'm not sure if that's something I need to reset the ECu (pull the battery for like 10 min) or if it'll just start running normal once things are all good again.

If that doesn't solve the problem, then i'm going to start dissassembly of the intake like you did.

This post has been edited by m5james: Jun 11 2009, 04:54 PM

[m5james]

So i've removed the throttle body and cleaned it....wow! There is so much carbon and oil built up inside the intake. While I can't see how this would cause the car to completely stop running normally, i'm sure it's not helping gas mileages of the pinging that this car suffers. Has anyone on here ever used Seafoam, and which port did you connect it to get vacuum?

(IMG:http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/m5james/IMG_1340.jpg)
(IMG:http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/m5james/IMG_1341.jpg)

Lately the issue i've been having is the car idles like crap when the MAF is connected. When I disconnect the MAF, it idles at like 1.5-2k and runs super rich to where I can smell it sitting in the car. It's completely undriveable. I'm getting codes P1147, 1151 (probably from disconnecting them while the car is running) and P 1191, 1193. Per this http://www.hmaservice.com/files/331/1358501/06-36-003.pdf it's putting me in limp mode because of a low RPM condition. I've been doing searches all over the internet, but I either get mixed results or deadend threads w/ no replies as to how they fixed the issue. NovaResource over on www.hyundaiforum.com is a tool and has been no help whatsoever as a "Super Moderator", so i'm hoping i'll have more luck on these forums. I've been on these threads, but haven't gotten anywhere.

http://www.obd-codes.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4375
http://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/showthre...highlight=p1193
http://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/showthre...highlight=p1193

I'm still hoping to find people who have had similar results and what either they or the stealership did to remedy the situation, along w/ where people are purchasing their parts.

Thanks all.

[m5james]

So i've reassembled the TB and nothing has changed. Oddly the best way the motor runs right now is w/ everything connected, but w/ the MAF sensor unplugged. The throttle still works (up to the 3k limp mode, and idle is 1.5k), but I still wonder why the rpm's drop down to like 1k when i press the brake. I've pulled it out of the driveway at it's high idle, but giving it gas doesn't seem to help, MAF connected or not. My uneducated (to this car) guess is the TPS since my little brother said the pedal has been super sensitive. There is room for adjustment w/ the TPS kind of like a distributor of an older car, but i'm not sure how to test or install it properly. Any ideas yet, othen than the dealership?