I really don't like the color scheme of the 06 Sonata. I've been looking around the internet of all these other cars and how easy they can change the color of their gauge cluster...but when I finally get to the cluster's circuit board...I find the lighting schematics different than all the other cars. I was really bummed I couldn't really customize it as easily as the other cars. Does anyone have any information about changing the sonata's LEDs on the circuit board?

EDIT: I actually found it after looking at a bit older posts in search. It's going to be a pain soldering. How exactly would you remove the green LEDs and solder the new ones on?

Did rotors and pads all around went to change 2 stripped wheel studs one on each side of the front and noticed you have to take the hub off in order to get them off? letf it alone for now but really want to get it done before winter hits and i have to put my winter rims on and you can see the missing studs with those rims. anyone know of an easier way of doing it?

Just bought a pre-owned '09 Sonata Limited 3.3L and really like the vehicle so far!

I had a few questions... Is Dealer my only option to copy my only car key I have?

Also, How do I program a car remote if I were to buy one off ebay?

And what is the recommended interval for oil change? is 5w-20 the recommended grade?

Thanks!

I have a strange problem, when it is cooler than 65 degrees outside, my rear driver door locks fine (automatic or remote), but when it gets humid or when the temps reach around 70 (F), the door lock sticks, anyone see this issue?

Yes, I'm a newbi......
Does the Sonata have this?
I had never notice this before untill today. I had my wipers in intermittent and when it started pouring
the wipers went into it's normal wipe mode, when the rain stoped it went back to intermittent.
At first I thought it was a malfunction, but it happen several times when the rain started coming down.

On my '09 Limited all four doors unlock when the car is placed into park from the D mode. I do not like this as I some times must wait at rr crossings with the car in park. Can this be re programmed by the dealer ?

Last Friday i had my rear shocks replaced by the dealer took the car in to the dealer and complain bout the noise coming from the front when i go over a bump or some small pothole.. they test the drive and say it was the rear shocks .. it turn out they was right all that noise was coming from the rear now the car feel much better with less noise.. i still have the KYB gonna return it back to the store

Alright, she almost has 60 K on her. I wanted to come on the board and chime in on how she has been so far. I saw a couple of other people reporting around this mileage. I hope this won't be a waste of bandwidth, if anything, I'll be curious if other people chime in and tell me how theirs are doing around this mileage and maybe tell me what I can look forward to in the next 20 k or so.

I have had to do virtually nothing with the car for the exception of routine maintenance and brake rotor upgrades.
So in all, this car has been a "worry free" vehicle in terms of reliability. Knock on wood, but I literally have not had to spend a dime on repairs etc...except for, like I said, mandatory maintenance. This might seem like a no brainer to some reading this at 60K, but we have another car that is the same year and Lord knows I have spent hundreds of dollars on it for repairs not under warranty.

My 2006 Sonata is completely bone stock for the exeption of the new rotors put on about 4k miles ago. I replaced tires about 6 K miles ago with Sumitumo HTR ZIIIs.



The interior is really holding up well, the vynil is virtually 99% in tact despite the fact that I hawl dj equipment in this car every weekend...speakers, speaker stands, cd cases, and anything else you can think of.

The exterior has a few paint chips on the hood and the bumper as well. This is, I am sure, due to triple digit speeds on the highway. I am trying to figure out the best way to repair them and will probably search on this forum for the best solution.
The black paint on the inside of the exhaust tip were completely flaking off but that was a $1 fix from wal mart primer and paint.



Though this car has been worry free, there are a few things that I absolutely despise about this car which I am sure some have heard and some may agree with me as well. When I first registered on this forum, my first thread I think was about the glare on the dash board. A lot of people thought I was crazy, but to this day, when it's sunny (and it's sunny here, a lot, haven't seen rain in months) it makes a huge glare on the dash and this picture doesn't even do it justice because the lens on the camera focuses and makes it look a lot less.

And while that's a minor thing and may be a pet peeve issue, there are other issues that are hard to live with:
1) The pedal on the accelerator is really stiff. Not sure if mine is the only one that feels stiff. Stealer-ship says b/c every car will feel different, they can't do anything about it. The stiff part is ok I guess, but when I press the accelerator from stand still, it seems that the initial push doesn't really communicate with the engine until about a split second later when a huge jolt out of nowhere appears. This is very annoying and makes launches become like solving a math quiz. In another words it's not smooth to say the least
2) Not really sure why the gears are setup to where the 1st gets the most power and the 2nd virtually has no power unless at 5K and up rpm. Unless you kick down to 1st gear EVEN AT rolling 30 MPH, this car won't go anywhere at WOT from a 2nd gear roll...it won't at all...feels like it's hawling a pickup in a 4 cylinder. I am not an engineer but to my understand, the cars that have a map where the 2nd gear holds the longest would get pretty good 0-60 time. 1/4 mile is another story. 1st gear on this car is super sweet, but when it kicks into 2nd gear, it's like it put on the imaginary brake.
3) The transmission issue I think everyone agrees is piece of work. I also have tried everything like unplugging the battery and etc... but I have come to the conclusion that if you want it to behave normally, you have to have it in shiftronic, period.
4) Those who think this car does not: roll, squat, waves...eh....yeaah. It honestly handles like noodles. To those who lowered the car with springs: did it help the car in terms of handling? I really would love to do a suspension upgrade on this car, but being that there are not alot of aftermarket shocks..i guess this discussion is moot for now? I just saw someone with Ks on the other threar, but I am assuming that would be a pretty penny route opposed to doing something a little less drastic like KYB Gr2s...which doesn't fit
Someone please make a tsb and end links, that can't be that hard LOL

Other than those issues, the car has been great in terms of reliability. Conclusion is: It looks good, it's alot of car for the money, it's spacious, it has livable gas mileage, it's reliable and it's slow as **** for a 3 1/2 liter V6.

Hi Guys,

I got these blinker kit through "Korean auto impots" shipped direcly from Korea to me .I liked them better than those on the back of the mirror cover.

These seemed more stock looking to me . and they are cheaper. they cost around 50 bucks .

installing them wasn't pain at all you need take that black cover at buttom of mirror out and replace them with these.and of course run a wire from the blinker on

the fender to these .

I took some pictures ,check 'em out .

I removed the H/LP HI relay to trace the hi beam connection. While testing I inadvertently, and for a brief moment, shorted to ground the relay's pin 85 socket. It had +12V prior to shorting...now nothing. Now no hi OR low beams. Have checked all fuses under hood and in cabin. Can't find wiring diagram on forum...any ideas where to look next?

I replaced my battery yesterday because it died; today while driving the driver seat belt light and battery light came on at the same time. I searched this forum and don't see any post with these 2 issues at once. Any ideas what might be causing this problem?

I drive a 2007 Sonata Limited.
UPDATED!!!! it was the altinator.

i am planning to replace my 17in alloy with steal rims for the winter.. What happens to the TPMS if the cheap rims I buy have no senser?

Will the light be ON all winter?
are the senser on the rims or tire?? As in should be ok with cheap rims but Good tire with sensor?

2010 limited Sonata 4cy with Nav

It was a dark and rainy day as I drove my new car from H... home. It drifted and pulled to right. A noticeable vibration in the steering wheel. I was there when they opened the Tarbox dealership the next morn. I requested my money back or at least a different car. They urged me to let them try and correct it. R.I. has no buyers remorse law.

They did, or said they did, put new tires on it and that crrected the pulling problem bit the steering wheel still vibrates. The service mgr denies the car vibrates but I can sure feel it. they refused to do more. I have a meeting with the area rep but i have read that the rep will also deny the vibration. we'll see. I think I'm screwed.

B.

Hi Guys,

i just tried connecting my 500 GB segate external passport drive my sonata USB. it worked perfectly. it took a while(around 40 sec) to read the disk. after that it played smoothly. its been a week and it is working perfectly. have you guys tried this and got any problem? if not, 'll throw all my MP3 CDs.

Just wanted to let people know, I recently got my side mirror smashed. the person did not stop so I never knew who it was.

I called my insurance company, they gave me the name of a reputable body shop. the cost was probably going to be below my duductible, so there was no point of going through them.

I got a quote from the local reputable body shop. 384$ for everything- labor and parts.

I finally went with a DIY solution-

100$ OEM hyundai heated driver's side mirror from ebay.
~ 92$ for the matching paint job from the body shop. Total- 192$
I ended up replacing it myself(saved ~ 190$). it was quite easy.

1. Pop out the small black speaker on the door/side panel(depends on if you have the premium audio upgrade or not). this didn't take too much force at all and did not damage my car. the speaker will be dangling during the removal/install of the mirror.
2. you will see a big square plug for the power mirror/heated mirror. unplug it. it should come off without too much force.
(the side mirror wires bundle is attached to the frame of the car in a round plastic thing. I thought i had to unplug this, but it turned out to be part of the car. good thing I didn't try too hard to "unplug" it. it would have done nothing other than loosen the wires from being secured).
3. you will see 3 bolts, unscrew them with the appropriate tools. be careful not to tug on the speaker wires. also be careful not to let the bolts fall into the interior of the door.
4. remove old mirror, put new mirror on, screw back the 3 bolts, and plug in the mirror power plug. snap back the black speaker/side panel, and you are good to go!

So far so good, the mirror is powered and heated, and the paint matches. Glad I saved the $184. This forum has helped me a bunch throughout the years. hope this post will help someone out there.

anyone have a owners manual I can download??
can't find it on jerrystout any more.

Here is a link to the custom dual exhaust on my 2009 Sonata Limited 2.4 Liter.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Avs-p8ieLoo

The exhaust consists of custom Y Pipe feeding into two dual pipes. The mufflers are two Cherry Bomb Turbo Mufflers (actual three chamber mufflers, not the glass packs). The factory resonator is still installed and an aftermarket 15 inch long 3 inch wide "bullet" glass packed resonator is added prior to the custom Y pipe to tone it down since the factory resonator is actually quite un-restrictive and left the Cherry Bomb Turbo mufflers too loud and raspy.

If you want anything close to a stock sound (which I actually wanted) use OEM replacement type mufflers and just remove the factory resonator to get a more aggressive sound. If you use aftermarket performance mufflers or else you will have to add a big bullet resonator (like I did) to quiet them down.

The Cherry Bombs replaced two Magnaflows that I tried with the factory resonator. The result was a disaster. The drone was terrible and did not go away even at highway speeds. Every single time I stepped on the gas it droned terribly and you could hear it from a block away. Driving the car was almost unbearable. I tried the bullet with the Magnaflows and it was still too loud so I replaced them with the Cherry Bombs.

I was hoping to remove the 15 inch bullet resonator and just use the Cherry Bombs by themselves but it was still too loud and buzzy.

The car drives quite well now and is only slightly louder than stock with a nice muscular tone you can really hear it when you step on it. The car has a lot more personality now and is more fun to drive now (especially when you use the manumatic mode).

If you go with a custom dual set up or you want to replace your factory muffler I would recommend replacing the factory resonator with a big straight through bullet resonator to tone it down. The factory resonator will not tone it down enough by itself so I would recommend just cutting it out.

If you want to keep the factory muffler I would also recommend cutting out the factory resonator entirely and replacing it with straight pipe. My first attempt at a an exhaust modification was to replace the factory resonator with a smaller bullet and I was happy with the results. However, after seeing how un-restrictive it is I figured I would have been better off either leaving it alone or removing it entirely if I would have kept the stock muffler.

If I were doing this all over again, I would try to get the stock exhaust from a wrecked 2007 or later V6 Sonata. After you remove the plate that covers the unused space on the left rear side of the Sonata it already has the screw holes where you can attach the hangers for the stock V6 exhaust. Plus you could also use the heat shield from the V6 Sonata (which I don't have).

Also, go with a recommended shop with a reputation for doing good custom exhaust work. I actually had to have my exhaust completely re-done by a second shop when the first shop overcharged me for a truly horrible job.

Anyone know how to access/replace the ambient temperature sensor on the Sonata?

It's behind the front bumper and, as usual, the manual says to pull the bumper to access it. But there is usually a work-a-round.

Hello i Have a 2009 hyundai sonata limited v6 with heated seats and black leather. i was wondering if anyone else has this or knows what this is. if i feel where the 2 peices of cushion, (butt and back) meet, sweeping my hand in between the two peices i feel 2 hard items on the butt cushion... its under the leather. the passanger side also has this but only one piece can be felt...


really want to know what this is and if its normal.. I just noticed it today..


if your curious i can take a picture of the area I am talking about


thanks a bunch!!!


~ignore the typos

Was looking and if you change the SE 215/55/17 tire size to 225/50/17 a whole world of tire opportunities open up. Has anyone put this size on their Sonata and had any problems? I searched for the size on here and larger tires SE and found nothing.

I'd be mainly concerned with rubbing somewhere but as I understand it would only be 5mm on each side of the axle, not much. The speedo error of 1mph slow is not a bother and honestly I'm sure mine isn't spot-on anyway.

I am planning a car audio install on an 09 4cyl Sonata with a couple of heavy duty audio amps. Most likely it will need a little more juice from the alternator to keep the lights from dimming. Rather than purchase an aftermarket $500 alternator, does anyone know if it is possible to install the 130 amp alternator that comes in a V6 for the 110 amp alternator that comes in the 4cyl without any issues?

Thanks!

I am pretty sure it does not have 1, but would like to confirm that the keys for my 2009 Sonata SE DO NOT have transponder chip in key (for remote starter).

Thanks.

We own a 2007 SE covered by the passenger airbag recall. The short of it, our local dealership is going to send the passenger seat to California to be re-calibrated. They said that has fixed the issue every time they've done it. For the long of it, read on........

I'm not sure if anyone has documented their experience getting this resolved so I thought I'd throw it up here for anyone interested. We received the recall notice and took the car to the dealership. The issue was intermittently happening and of course we couldn't make it happen the day we took it in. The service manager said he couldn't verify our car had the issue unless it was actively happening, or something to that effect. He said if we could come back when it was happening, they could confirm it and he could gather the information he needed. I suspected BS but was not in the mood to argue, plus we drive by the dealership all the time and I figured it was only a matter of time before it happened when we were close. Last weekend, we got in the car with my wife in the passenger seat and the light stayed on. We drove to the dealership, had the service manager come out, he sat in the car, turned off/on the engine, evaluated my wife's AIS technique and fiddled with a few more things but he couldn't get the light to go off. I smiled wondering if they were going to ask my wife to move or get up knowing they couldn't have dragged her 125lb frame out of that seat with a crane. The service manager gave me the same old story about weight sensitivity, sitting upright, back against the seat, etc, etc.....but it was obvious my wife was doing everything she was supposed to be doing. I asked a simple question: "So what do you have to do to fix this?"............and California, here we come. Dealership said they'd have to hold the car for a week and we'd get a loaner.

Anyone been down the "california recalibration" path of getting the seat fixed? Good experiences, bad experiences?

I'll repost any developments as they occur. The car/seat should be going in the last week of October.

I bought an 07 Radio remote and installed it in my 06 LX. It works PERFECT.
I had to purchase the 07 wiring harness also.I can now change channels while
still being able to control the volume and mute. I cut the radio remote
plugs off of the old and new wiring harness and spliced the new plug onto
the old harness. You can buy an 07 cruise control remote and not have to
splice but I am cheap. I bought the remote and harness from
www.dreamka4u.com in Korea. Took about two weeks to get them. My Sonata was
purchased 11-2005. It is the LX and has the premium 5 cd changer stereo
system.

Part #: 96700 3K101 Radio Remote $43
Part #: 56991-3K112 Wiring Harness $20
Free Shipping

These are the wires I spliced. Do this at your OWN risk. I AM NOT
RESPONSIBLE! Please double check the part #'s, wire colors and make sure
they are the correct ones.

New Plug - Old Harness

Pink - Green (greenish gray to me, there's a bright green wire that
goes to the cruise. get the right one!)
Yellow - Gray
Red - Pink
Blue - Black (2 wires)

Rob

Any questions email me at bucfan11atgmaildotcom

Just purchased a Kenwood DDX514 DVD reciever and a PAC OEM-2 interface for my 07 Sonata. Got everything hooked up but do not know which wire is the remote turn on for the factory amp. Does it use the standard 12v turn on signal. In short, can I connect the amp rem from the Kenwood to the factorys amp turn on and which wire. Thanks.

I’ve had this problem recently when stopped at a light and the car is fully warmed up. With my foot on the brake and the car stopped, the engine feels like it idling rough. However, on further inspection it appears the torque converter in the transmission is actual engaging and disengaging. Also when releasing the brake and just letting the car roll (no pedal acceleration), the car will buck as if it’s not sure if I’m stopping or ready to accelerate. What’s also strange is that this doesn’t happen when the car’s in reverse. If I accelerate I have no issue. It just happens when I let the car roll with no acceleration. It also bucks or bumps just before the car finally stops on deceleration and after it’s downshifted to first gear. The CEL light hasn’t come on so I’m not sure what’s going on. I’ve read that this might be a vacuum issue, ground issue, torque converter issue, and solenoid issue. Has anyone else experienced this or have any idea what the problem might be? Car is out of warranty so taking to the dealership is out of the question. Thanks.

So two or three times now when I start the car up the idle shoots up to 2000 rpm's and then slowly goes to 2500 for about 8-10 seconds then lower back to normal 850-1000. Is this normal? Its kind of strange because it only does it sometimes.

2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS Automatic trans.
It seemed very tight, I don't want to break anything. Thanks, in advance. I am installing a beautiful Momo Carbon Fiber shift knob.

Have a 007 sonata and have a LH door mirror that I cracked the black triangular mounting plate that mounts to the door. Am currently using waterproof tape to hole it to the door. Is it possible to just replace the triangular plastic plate or do I need the whole mirror assy?
Also our driver sunvisor broke and was wondering how to fix. Car has 27,000 miles on it. Is this a warranty repair?

Hey all,

I brought my Sonata in today for service and the advisor said there is a sunvisor recall for 06-07 Sonatas (#T64). He has the kit on order and will replace under warranty. Just FYI - I know people here have mentioned this in the past, but now it seems to be officially covered. Is this old news?

Hello everyone,

I recently purchased a 2007 Hyundai for a great price and with great mileage. The only issue I have with it, which I knew from the start, is that the left side steering wheel buttons exist but are non functional. There are no labels on the buttons and they cannot be pressed down. The right side, however, is fully functional. How would I go about getting these buttons adjusted so that they are in working condition? Also, how big of a project is this and what would be the potential cost? I believe the left side is normally used for volume/radio control etc. Any feedback you have is greatly appreciated.

I recently noticed a high pitched intermittent sound coming from the engine. THe best way I can describe it is that it sounds like cards in a bicycle wheel. It seems to be concentrated at the 1 and 4 cylinders. The car only has 25,000 miles on it so it shouldn't need the 60,000 miles valve check. Has anyone else experienced this and what did you do? Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I know many of us have complained about the Rice Crispies sound effects from our '09 Sonata dashboards, but this is really getting on my last nerve. After it's been out in the heat a while and I start to drive it, it sounds like the dashboard is literally falling apart. If I got a tube of that Krytox and injected it in between the plastic, would this fix the problem? I'm really desparate to fix this and I doubt the dealer would be much help.
Thanks.

okay so it was this one morning, i was on my way to work and the bright sun was right in the view of my eyes and when i tried opening the sun visor, it wouldnt open for some strange reason... so i gave it a little bit of more force into it than i heard CRACK!.. and than i noticed the little plastic pole looking part thats holding on to the sunvisor had a big crack on it. and now ever since that big crack noise the sunvisor doesnt stay up.. it hangs low and i bump my forehead everytime... right now its getting held up by 3m tape between the mirror cover and the mirror light plastic cover... is there any replacement part for this? or am i screwed....

If the radio buttons on the steering wheels are used the buttons on the radio are disabled until the radio is turned off and then back on. Radio buttons work fine until the ones on the steering wheel are used again. 09 Sonata Limited (over the 36,000 mile radio warranty period). Any one else experienced thsi problem? Otherwise i really like this car.

So I returned from a trip to Yosemite today. Before leaving, I checked all lights, and everything was good.

Now I have four issues, and wanted to post them up before going to the parts store and buying a bunch of bulbs.

1. The front driver side amber position light/turn signal does not stay on with the headlight, like the left side does.

However, if I turn on the blinker, it comes on and blinks like normal. Could it still be the bulb?

2. My left (drivers side) rear tail light is out, both bulbs don't come on, but if I brake, the brake light comes on. If the tail light bulb (on the trunk lid) burns out, does the other one not come on either?

3. And could this be linked to the left trunk lid bulb not being on either (above the license plate)

4. The glovebox light doesn't come on. Is it common for this to burn out?

The car is an 06 GLS w/ 36k.

Thanks for any input!

Anyone dealt with any front end noise in their 06 Sonatas? i would refer to this as a creaking noise heard inside the vehicle while going slower...such as in parking lots and neighborhood driving. Sounds to be from the strut area to me. Going to try to take into dealership next week. Seems like right after i got the rear suspension noise fixed (Replaced struts) then i hear the front end making noise.