Rpms Drop To 0, Engine Stalls Options

[brian.wolfe86]

Hey guys,

I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with ~96k miles and the 2.4L engine that has been working fine up until the last month. What's started happening is, while driving (typically within the first five minutes of starting the engine), the engine pauses and the RPMs drop to zero. This has happened both during normal acceleration as well as while maintaining speed.

It started out only happening for a second or two, but yesterday was the worst when it happened for right about 5 seconds. Yesterday was also the first time the CEL came on (but only for a moment, then went back out).

Based on the research I've been doing for other cars with similar issues, it seems like this could either be related to the fuel relay, fuel pump, or crankshaft position sensor. Fair warning, I just bought this car a few months ago and haven't yet replaced plugs, wires, or much of anything else really.

Has anyone had/seen issues like this before?


TIA,

Brian

[jsinton]

It could be a lot of things. You need a trouble code scan to tell you what the check engine light is all about. It will probably tell you exactly what the problem is.

To get a free trouble code scan, visit your local AutoZone or Advance Auto and ask for a scan. They should be happy to do it for you, it only takes a minute. Write down the codes and report them back here for analysis.

[brian.wolfe86]

It could be a lot of things. You need a trouble code scan to tell you what the check engine light is all about. It will probably tell you exactly what the problem is.

To get a free trouble code scan, visit your local AutoZone or Advance Auto and ask for a scan. They should be happy to do it for you, it only takes a minute. Write down the codes and report them back here for analysis.

So the CEL code should still be readable even though the CEL is out?

[jsinton]

So the CEL code should still be readable even though the CEL is out?

Yes, CEL codes are stored in memory until cleared.

[brian.wolfe86]

Yes, CEL codes are stored in memory until cleared.

Ah okay thanks. I'll report back with what I find.

[brian.wolfe86]

Yes, CEL codes are stored in memory until cleared.

Okay, got the code checked at AutoZone and came up with P0446. "Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction".

Seems like I need to clean out the the pipeline between the charcoal canister and the fuel tank, is that right?

If so, has anyone done it before? I found the post below on another forum, could anyone confirm what the "propeller shaft support bracket" is?


"Loosen up the propeller shaft support bracket (near the canister) enough to allow the shaft to drop about a half inch and the canister slips out easy."

[jsinton]

It's under the car near to the gas filler tube. The canister sits in a black box bolted to the bottom. The canister valve is attached to the canister.

It might have something to do with your stalling, but normally it won't do that. Still, it's worth a shot to replace it.

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[brian.wolfe86]

It's under the car near to the gas filler tube. The canister sits in a black box bolted to the bottom. The canister valve is attached to the canister.

It might have something to do with your stalling, but normally it won't do that. Still, it's worth a shot to replace it.

Thanks for the quick reply jsinton. Could you give me a general idea of where to start looking for this? Also, do you know if I can just use regular canned air to clean out the valve? Finally, I've read on other cars that you have to apply a +12 volts to the solenoid that regulates the valve to be able to clean it out. Is this true and, if so, do you know where I should apply this?

Thanks a lot,

Brian

[jsinton]

Thanks for the quick reply jsinton. Could you give me a general idea of where to start looking for this? Also, do you know if I can just use regular canned air to clean out the valve? Finally, I've read on other cars that you have to apply a +12 volts to the solenoid that regulates the valve to be able to clean it out. Is this true and, if so, do you know where I should apply this?

Thanks a lot,

Brian

The pics show you where the canister is located, under the car, near the gas filler tube.

P0446 indicated a problem with the circuit of the valve, which usually means you replace the valve, not clean it out.

[brian.wolfe86]

The pics show you where the canister is located, under the car, near the gas filler tube.

P0446 indicated a problem with the circuit of the valve, which usually means you replace the valve, not clean it out.

Stupid question, but this valve isn't the PCV valve, right?

If not, is there a specific name for the valve I should be asking for when calling around for replacement parts? Or is it just part of the charcoal canister?


Thanks,

Brian

[brian.wolfe86]

Well, my engine completely died at a stoplight today and wouldn't start back up until I fully depressed the accelerator for about 30 seconds with the key in the off position (just like with a flood).

In addition, my CEL light came on again so I took it back to autozone and came back with a new code: P0335.

More and more this seems like an issue with my Crankshaft Position Sensor. Has anyone replaced this previously? Can it be done using fairly standard tools or do I need a specialized toolset?

Thanks,

Brian

[jsinton]

Well, my engine completely died at a stoplight today and wouldn't start back up until I fully depressed the accelerator for about 30 seconds with the key in the off position (just like with a flood).

In addition, my CEL light came on again so I took it back to autozone and came back with a new code: P0335.

More and more this seems like an issue with my Crankshaft Position Sensor. Has anyone replaced this previously? Can it be done using fairly standard tools or do I need a specialized toolset?

Thanks,

Brian

Crank position sensor makes more sense for your problem. CPS failure will lead to engine shutting down, unlike canister valve. The CPS is under the timing belt cover. You don't need special tools, but you need to remove all the accessory belts, jack up the car, remove the wheel, remove the crank, etc, to get the timing belt cover off like you will change the timing belt.

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[brian.wolfe86]

Crank position sensor makes more sense for your problem. CPS failure will lead to engine shutting down, unlike canister valve. The CPS is under the timing belt cover. You don't need special tools, but you need to remove all the accessory belts, jack up the car, remove the wheel, remove the crank, etc, to get the timing belt cover off like you will change the timing belt.

Well, just out of happenchance, I checked the fluids last night and my both my oil and coolant levels were bone dry... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

After recovering from my mild heart attack, I filled them both up. I then wondered those two issues might cause the failure I saw, so I took it out for a spin. I brought it up to highway speed 5x and had no stutters, stops, or cut-outs. Same thing this morning on the way to work, not one problem.

Crossing my fingers that was the issue. I'll report back if I have any further problems.

Thanks,

Brian

[brian.wolfe86]

Well, just out of happenchance, I checked the fluids last night and my both my oil and coolant levels were bone dry... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

After recovering from my mild heart attack, I filled them both up. I then wondered those two issues might cause the failure I saw, so I took it out for a spin. I brought it up to highway speed 5x and had no stutters, stops, or cut-outs. Same thing this morning on the way to work, not one problem.

Crossing my fingers that was the issue. I'll report back if I have any further problems.

Thanks,

Brian

Well it came back...and I ended up having to replace my crankshaft position sensor. Glad I paid my mechanic for it though...I paid $325 and he said he wouldn't ever do it for under $600 again. Guess a lot of man hours goes into changing one of those things.

On another note, I found out the reason my oil was leaking was a loose drain plug and the leaking coolant was due to a leak in the lower part of the radiator.

For anyone planning to replace the radiator (did it myself) plan on a whole weekend as this is not a quick and easy task (you have to remove the front bumper to even think about doing it).