Foglight Independent Of Headlights - Fixed! Options

[MajBach]

Hi, all. I may be behind the times on this one but just in case....

I searched earlier on how to make the fogs run independent of the headlights and with some help from others here I have. The good news its a quick and easy mod.

I found a thread from like 2007 where the last post was:

"Looking at the Schematic on hmaservice.com if you ground pin 4 of the connector (M52) on the back of the fog lamp switch then the fog lamps will work independent of the headlamp switch. They should still go out upon key removal.

Note: this will probably violate some state (and Canada) laws about having more than 4 forward facing lamps on at a given time. Also the fog lamps will be active anytime the switch is on, regardless of parking lamps or not."

I tried this suggestion and it indeed worked. Thanks!

Here's how to do it:

Open the interior fuse panel. From here, you can reach up and unclasp the pin that hooks the fog toggle light. The lever is on the blind side (not top, not bottom). There are 5 wires, two on the top, three side-by-side but offset on the bottom. The middle wire is brown and orange. Simply ground this and the fogs work like a toggle. An easy method is to use a wire slice/crimper. I think I got one form Radio Shack (The Source). It's blue and you simply attach to you working wire and press and crimp the jaw closed permanently. A metal jaw slices thru the insulation of the existing wire and you can now crimp your new wire to it.

Here's the beauty part: The fogs now work as a toggle when the ignition key is in, regardless of running/parking lights. But pulling the key out shuts them off. ALSO, with the key out, you can still tuen on your parking lights by flipping the barrel switch. When the parking lights are on, I THINK the fogs will come on also.

Hope this is specific and helps all those having the same issue.

[MurfsDad]

Hi, all. I may be behind the times on this one but just in case....

I searched earlier on how to make the fogs run independent of the headlights and with some help from others here I have. The good news its a quick and easy mod.

I found a thread from like 2007 where the last post was:

"Looking at the Schematic on hmaservice.com if you ground pin 4 of the connector (M52) on the back of the fog lamp switch then the fog lamps will work independent of the headlamp switch. They should still go out upon key removal.

Note: this will probably violate some state (and Canada) laws about having more than 4 forward facing lamps on at a given time. Also the fog lamps will be active anytime the switch is on, regardless of parking lamps or not."

I tried this suggestion and it indeed worked. Thanks!

Here's how to do it:

Open the interior fuse panel. From here, you can reach up and unclasp the pin that hooks the fog toggle light. The lever is on the blind side (not top, not bottom). There are 5 wires, two on the top, three side-by-side but offset on the bottom. The middle wire is brown and orange. Simply ground this and the fogs work like a toggle. An easy method is to use a wire slice/crimper. I think I got one form Radio Shack (The Source). It's blue and you simply attach to you working wire and press and crimp the jaw closed permanently. A metal jaw slices thru the insulation of the existing wire and you can now crimp your new wire to it.

Here's the beauty part: The fogs now work as a toggle when the ignition key is in, regardless of running/parking lights. But pulling the key out shuts them off. ALSO, with the key out, you can still turn on your parking lights by flipping the barrel switch. When the parking lights are on, I THINK the fogs will come on also.

Hope this is specific and helps all those having the same issue.

Thanx for the fix. I haven't been on the forum for a while so haven't been keeping up.

I just did it and it works like a charm. Thanx again.

Stewart

This post has been edited by MurfsDad: Jul 25 2009, 09:18 AM

[david-paul-1]

Hi, all. I may be behind the times on this one but just in case....

I searched earlier on how to make the fogs run independent of the headlights and with some help from others here I have. The good news its a quick and easy mod.

I found a thread from like 2007 where the last post was:

"Looking at the Schematic on hmaservice.com if you ground pin 4 of the connector (M52) on the back of the fog lamp switch then the fog lamps will work independent of the headlamp switch. They should still go out upon key removal.

Note: this will probably violate some state (and Canada) laws about having more than 4 forward facing lamps on at a given time. Also the fog lamps will be active anytime the switch is on, regardless of parking lamps or not."

I tried this suggestion and it indeed worked. Thanks!

Here's how to do it:

Open the interior fuse panel. From here, you can reach up and unclasp the pin that hooks the fog toggle light. The lever is on the blind side (not top, not bottom). There are 5 wires, two on the top, three side-by-side but offset on the bottom. The middle wire is brown and orange. Simply ground this and the fogs work like a toggle. An easy method is to use a wire slice/crimper. I think I got one form Radio Shack (The Source). It's blue and you simply attach to you working wire and press and crimp the jaw closed permanently. A metal jaw slices thru the insulation of the existing wire and you can now crimp your new wire to it.

Here's the beauty part: The fogs now work as a toggle when the ignition key is in, regardless of running/parking lights. But pulling the key out shuts them off. ALSO, with the key out, you can still tuen on your parking lights by flipping the barrel switch. When the parking lights are on, I THINK the fogs will come on also.

Hope this is specific and helps all those having the same issue.

Okay, okay, let me see if I have this right.

You simply splice into the brown/orange wire, take the new wire that has been added, and ground it. That simple?

David

[MurfsDad]

Okay, okay, let me see if I have this right.

You simply splice into the brown/orange wire, take the new wire that has been added, and ground it. That simple?

David

Exactly. Use the Scotchlock to tap into the appropriate wire and run the wire down to the bolt by the fuse block mount and ground it there. Bob's-your-uncle and you're done.

Stewart

[MajBach]

Exactly. Use the Scotchlock to tap into the appropriate wire and run the wire down to the bolt by the fuse block mount and ground it there. Bob's-your-uncle and you're done.

Stewart

What he said.

[david-paul-1]

Exactly. Use the Scotchlock to tap into the appropriate wire and run the wire down to the bolt by the fuse block mount and ground it there. Bob's-your-uncle and you're done.

Stewart

I really love Uncle Bob. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grin.gif)

Now I get it. This mod simply completes the circuit for the fogs so that they stay on all the time. Gotta love it.

I've been wanting to use my 'fogs' for daytime running lights, for years.

Also, because I live so rural, it is imperative that at slow speeds I use my Brights and now I will have the advantage of fogs for closer, wider, ditch lighting. Lots of animals out here and I really don't want to hurt any of them.

This time of year they are everywhere.

Thanks, Stewart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

David <><

This post has been edited by david-paul-1: Jul 26 2009, 12:08 AM

[MajBach]

I really love Uncle Bob. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grin.gif)

Now I get it. This mod simply completes the circuit for the fogs so that they stay on all the time. Gotta love it.

I've been wanting to use my 'fogs' for daytime running lights, for years.

Also, because I live so rural, it is imperative that at slow speeds I use my Brights and now I will have the advantage of fogs for closer, wider, ditch lighting. Lots of animals out here and I really don't want to hurt any of them.

This time of year they are everywhere.

Thanks, Stewart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

David <><

If critters are a probelm for you may i suggest another mod. I replaced my bulbs last night with 895 (I think thats the correct number). They are 38watts, straight (not a 90 but will still fit) but most importantly they do not have the reflector tip at the end of the quartz bulb. The is still a distinct horizontal throw to the light but now there is far more to the sides as well as a general flood pattern as opposed to just a horizontal beam. Eyes that lurk in the dark are now a little more apparent.

[david-paul-1]

If critters are a probelm for you may i suggest another mod. I replaced my bulbs last night with 895 (I think thats the correct number). They are 38watts, straight (not a 90 but will still fit) but most importantly they do not have the reflector tip at the end of the quartz bulb. The is still a distinct horizontal throw to the light but now there is far more to the sides as well as a general flood pattern as opposed to just a horizontal beam. Eyes that lurk in the dark are now a little more apparent.

You mentioned an #895 as a replacement. Perhaps you meant #885?

Sylvania catalog shows the 885 as 50 watts. Our original 881 bulbs are only 30 watts.

The 895 is a bayonet base as opposed to the 885 which has the correct T-3 base.

In any event, do you think the 885 with 50 watts is too hot for our use?


By the way, I completed my mod for the running light switch. I guess we can really call these ditch lights since they actually light up the sides more than forward.

I found an even easier way to get to the wire for modding. Simply pop the 4 switch panel out of the dash. Once the fuse compartment door is open, it's easy to just push it out.

David <><

This post has been edited by david-paul-1: Jul 27 2009, 12:54 AM

[MajBach]

You mentioned an #895 as a replacement. Perhaps you meant #885?

Sylvania catalog shows the 885 as 50 watts. Our original 881 bulbs are only 30 watts.

The 895 is a bayonet base as opposed to the 885 which has the correct T-3 base.

In any event, do you think the 885 with 50 watts is too hot for our use?


By the way, I completed my mod for the running light switch. I guess we can really call these ditch lights since they actually light up the sides more than forward.

I found an even easier way to get to the wire for modding. Simply pop the 4 switch panel out of the dash. Onde the fuse compartment door is open, it's easy to just push it out.

David <><

It probably was 885 - but the wattage wasn't on it. I ASSUMED it was 37.5 watts like the 886 as they look the same with the exception of the frosted tip. Can you point out the sight where I can see a list of wattages? Yes, it is a different mount but fits fine. I will likely change it out though if it is 50 watts. I wanted the 38 watt one as others here said it is an improvement. Thanks.

Regarding the crash pad - as Hyundai calls it - I wanted to pop mine out too but there seemed to be too much resistance? Just a good solid push you say? I have made the mod too but I still need to get into that area as I want to solder a resistor to the dimmer switch to reduce the lights. I find even at the lowest setting, the dash lights are too bright.

Don't know your point on the fog lights throwing too much to the side - if you like it or don't I mean. I went with the bulb without the frosted tip just to het a little more to the sides as I need to see the animals on these far north roads. Saves me $$$ putting in yet another set of lights.

[david-paul-1]

It probably was 885 - but the wattage wasn't on it. I ASSUMED it was 37.5 watts like the 886 as they look the same with the exception of the frosted tip. Can you point out the sight where I can see a list of wattages? Yes, it is a different mount but fits fine. I will likely change it out though if it is 50 watts. I wanted the 38 watt one as others here said it is an improvement. Thanks.

Regarding the crash pad - as Hyundai calls it - I wanted to pop mine out too but there seemed to be too much resistance? Just a good solid push you say? I have made the mod too but I still need to get into that area as I want to solder a resistor to the dimmer switch to reduce the lights. I find even at the lowest setting, the dash lights are too bright.

Don't know your point on the fog lights throwing too much to the side - if you like it or don't I mean. I went with the bulb without the frosted tip just to het a little more to the sides as I need to see the animals on these far north roads. Saves me $$$ putting in yet another set of lights.

Please don't get me wrong. I definitely want more light to the sides. The brights give me forward light but I want more to the side. Now that I can use my "ditch" lights with the brights, it is fantastic. Thanks very much for the tip.

I found the wattage on the Sylvania site for the 885. Here is the link.

http://www.sylvaniaautocatalog.com/new_syl....asp?BatchId=44

As you can see, the 885 is rated 100 hours less than the 881, and actually, neither of them are that great.

The 899, rated at a whopping 2,000 hours at 37.5 watts, seems fantastic. I wonder what the catch is? Here is one link I found regarding this bulb. They seem to be inexpensive. Now I am really wondering what the catch is.

http://store.qualitydist.net/gel-899-bp.html

Hopefully, someone will jump in here and solve this dilema.

I really hate trying to figure out automotive lighting with sooooooooooooooo many choices.

In my regular headlights, I have the Sylvania Ultras in both the high and low beams. These are great and pretty straight forward. It's having to deal with the rest of the lighting that is a real pain. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/puzzled.gif)

Regarding the 4 switch panel, yes, just a forceful push will do it. If you feel behind the panel, there are four plastic tabs, two at the top and two at the bottom. You may want to release them from the inside. Either the top two or the bottom two will do. I just pushed, and out they came.

David <><

This post has been edited by david-paul-1: Jul 27 2009, 01:12 AM

[carlito]

I just finished the grounding of the wire as mentioned above. I live in Montreal, and my Canadian spec Santa Fe 2009 with 3.3l V6, and by doing that, it completely bypasses the DRL.
The DRL are on just when you put the corner lights on.

Gonna try it for a while and see what I like better. I really like that they are always on though!!!!

Carl

p.s. Don't bother trying to remove the whole switch assembly. If you look from underneath, you can clearly see the connector, and the release pin is on the outside part!

[suvmatt]

I just finished the grounding of the wire as mentioned above. I live in Montreal, and my Canadian spec Santa Fe 2009 with 3.3l V6, and by doing that, it completely bypasses the DRL.
The DRL are on just when you put the corner lights on.

Gonna try it for a while and see what I like better. I really like that they are always on though!!!!

Carl

p.s. Don't bother trying to remove the whole switch assembly. If you look from underneath, you can clearly see the connector, and the release pin is on the outside part!

Thanks for the heads-up Carl,

I was intrested in doing this mod, but don't want to lose the DRL.

If anything i would prefer the fogs as DRL's (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grin.gif)

[MajBach]

I just finished the grounding of the wire as mentioned above. I live in Montreal, and my Canadian spec Santa Fe 2009 with 3.3l V6, and by doing that, it completely bypasses the DRL.
The DRL are on just when you put the corner lights on.

Gonna try it for a while and see what I like better. I really like that they are always on though!!!!

Carl

p.s. Don't bother trying to remove the whole switch assembly. If you look from underneath, you can clearly see the connector, and the release pin is on the outside part!

I'm in Canada too. Hadn't noticed if the DRL's went out as I tested without the engine running. Bummer. Back to the drawing board.

[carlito]

I was trying to access the HMA service website to look at the wiring diagram for the fog lights, but for some reasons I cannot see any diagrams in the wiring section, I see the diagrams in the shop section????
If anyone has it, post it up so that we can take a look.
Guess having been a mechanic for 10 yrs helps read those diagrams!

Thanks

This post has been edited by carlito: Jul 27 2009, 11:45 AM

[MurfsDad]

I just finished the grounding of the wire as mentioned above. I live in Montreal, and my Canadian spec Santa Fe 2009 with 3.3l V6, and by doing that, it completely bypasses the DRL.
The DRL are on just when you put the corner lights on.

Gonna try it for a while and see what I like better. I really like that they are always on though!!!!

Carl

Interesting. On my '07 it didn't affect the DRL's at all. They com on just as normal.

Stewart

[david-paul-1]

p.s. Don't bother trying to remove the whole switch assembly. If you look from underneath, you can clearly see the connector, and the release pin is on the outside part!

Carl,

It only takes 2 seconds to pop out the switch panel and as a result, you don't have to look or reach "underneath" anything.

Much easier, IMHO, but..................... to each his own.

David <><

[MajBach]

Interesting. On my '07 it didn't affect the DRL's at all. They com on just as normal.

Stewart

I'm anxious to find out now. Having a 2008, I'm right in the middle of you two. Schematically and logically, I cannot see how grounding that one wire would effect the DRLs (unless is a power wire to trip the relay? No that doesnt make sense either). I wonder if this is tied into the interior light problem the 2007's in Canada had. A lady in town here with a 07 GLS told me (whe I was shopping for a new car months ago) that she found it peculiar and annoying that the front dome lights didn't come on with door ajar. She said dealer didn't know of a fix. I read something some time later of a 'glitch in the line' for several months that caused this and there is a TSB for it.

[MurfsDad]

There is the possibility that some are grounding the wire and disconnecting it from the circuit. Just add the ground by using the ScotchLocs, don't cut the wire. Then again maybe the '08 and '09 models have a different setup.

Stewart

[Ken SantaFe]

I tried this on my 2008 Santa Fe, and the foglights would come on anytime the key was in the ignition. The foglight switch had no effect, completely disabled. Not what I was looking for. Maybe I did something wrong, but I followed the instructions, using a Scotchlock connector and running a ground wire from the brown/orange wire.

[MurfsDad]

I tried this on my 2008 Santa Fe, and the foglights would come on anytime the key was in the ignition. The foglight switch had no effect, completely disabled. Not what I was looking for. Maybe I did something wrong, but I followed the instructions, using a Scotchlock connector and running a ground wire from the brown/orange wire.

'08's must have a different setup in the system. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/crying.gif)

Stewart