Hyundai I10 Fuel Consumption - Page 2 - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #11 of 19 Old 06-03-2010, 03:53 PM
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QUOTE (Jubilado @ Jun 3 2010, 06:58 AM)
Steve-W Thanks for the interesting figures. They make sense to me as my wife tends to have a heavier foot too.

Looking at your location, you probably don't need to use the airco much!

When well run-in, the engine revs very freely and on an uphill overtaking manoevre hit 6000 without any sign of stress.
You are right about the aircon Jubilado although today the sun did beam down on us and she did pop it on for a bit. I bet that action has put her down into single figures.

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post #12 of 19 Old 06-03-2010, 05:40 PM
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from the thread on MPG, here are some of the adjustments and observations i have made. i tend to run the engine about 2000 to 2500rpm

How i have improved my mpg

driving school roof sign removed +3mpg
tracking set straight +2mpg
TPS from 7 to 5 at idle +3mpg

Scangauge, just watching how the mpg alters under different conditions
Michelin energy savers have just been fitted, so its wait and see what effect these have.

my monthly average has gone from a low of 39mpg for November and had a high of 47mpg in April.
has anyone else noticed their mpg get worse when its wet ???

on a quiet road keeping to 40mph i have the following results

warm and dry 68mpg
hot with A/C 60mpg
mild and wet 58mpg

Many Thanks, Mike, Learn with Mike
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post #13 of 19 Old 06-04-2010, 08:00 AM
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I use car in 1500 -3500 rpm.
And i use this speed and clutch number.
10km -1
20km -2
35km -3
50km -4
70+km -5

And i have good fuel economy and i drive 80% in town and 20% out of town. Maybe this help to someone.

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post #14 of 19 Old 11-30-2010, 10:27 AM
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QUOTE (ArtanisEL @ Jun 2 2010, 03:38 PM)
Hi Marjh,

You still get the FC of 10km / liter?

Me too... my RPM is around 2.5k to 3.5k, but I still get 10km/ liter in average... I don't know what should I check and what should I do... sigh...

I buy this car because of the FC too.
I'm also from Malaysia, Mine i10 is manual 1.1 inokom 2010. i pumped Esso Mobile can only get maximum at RM50 for 350km(27liter for 350KM). mine RPM is around 2k to 3.2k. it seems to be not as it stated in the advertisement and the award 2009.-.-''' the FC is too jialat!
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post #15 of 19 Old 11-21-2011, 04:34 AM
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i10 FC

i dont know if this thread still alive but i want to share my experience with regards to the FC of i10. i bought one last oct 2011 and i got the same experience. i am only consuming like 7 to 8 km/ltr. i keep my rpm as suggested but is it something to do with the break-in period since my odometer reading still less than 10,000KM.

please advice. thanks!
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post #16 of 19 Old 11-21-2011, 07:56 AM
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I picked up a 61 plate Classic a fortnight ago. On my first long trip, I averaged 52mpg. This was despite cruising at an indicated 80mph (3600RPM) with the lights and heating on. The car has only 900 miles showing now, 350 when I set off, so is still tight. My pre-facelift 1.2 Classic was eventually coaxed to 48mpg on a similar journey after 16000 miles, so I was quite happy as this seems to show an improvement. However, it is early days and the current tank doesn't seem to be doing as well. Watch this space. On a plus note, the new model seems quieter and quicker.
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post #17 of 19 Old 05-21-2014, 09:53 AM
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As Neci sad, I also shift at these speeds. I bought a used i10 in January of this year. Whenever I went to see on internet what is the fuel consumption of i10, I saw max 6.1 liters/100km ( Hyundai - i10 - 1.1 (67 Hp) - Technical specifications, Fuel economy (consumption) ). My first tanking when I drive my car home shows me 12l/100km what would be 8.3km/l I thought that is so much... Now I fill up the reservoir for 15-20 minutes to literally full the tank. The best consumption that I measured was 7l/100km. I feel it more above normal. The tank can accept 35 liters of fuel. After 460 kilometers the lamp of reservoir turns on and of course I can fill up the tank with approximately 30 liters of gasoline, but I think it is a big consumption. My parents had Renault 4 which had the same fuel consumption. That was more years ago... In 1998 my father bought a Skoda Felicia Combi and in 2013 i30cw with CRDi 1.6 motor. I can say this i10 that I bought is a really shame... I drive it in city and on highways (20-80%) and 7l/100km is much more than I imagined when I bought the car.

In summary I am satisfied with the car, but the fuel consumption...

(sorry for my english)

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post #18 of 19 Old 05-21-2014, 04:06 PM
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I'm from England and have a new generation i10 1.2 manual. I am achieving 50 miles per UK gallon on average. Currently I am getting 56 MPG.

The Hyundai auto box is not constantly variable and so will not be as efficient as modern autos. The fuel consumption will be higher than a manual.

Also, as stated earlier, do not run the engines too slowly. If they are under load then aim for 2 - 4 thousand RPM. The more load you have (i.e. going up a steep hill), then rev them more. The fuel consumption will probably be better, not worse!
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post #19 of 19 Old 05-21-2014, 04:20 PM
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1500 rpm for these engines you'll be lugging the poor thing to the point of hurting it and so far off the power band you couldnt reach it with a 10 foot pole..
If this transmission has a sport mode - put it in sport and leave it there - it'll shift higher and give you better RPM and better torque - therefore better MPG.
MPG is a function of the torque rating of the engine. My Accent hits peak torque at 2900rpm or so - so the engine buzzing away at 3250 in top at 70mph sounds fast but actually its nigh on perfect for peak MPG (just slightly above so when I hit a hill its running down into peak torque - not wheezing and groaning trying to get back up there). The tradeoff is I have to be in a lower gear than I would usually be otherwise or I get into 1400-2000 territory at which point the 1300 couldnt pull the skin off a rice pudding.. and I end up using more fuel even though my RPM is lower.
if you cant get it to change up at a sensible speed by judicious application of the right boot and a sport mode - you probably need to go back to the dealership and get them to reprogram the shift points so it actually gets within shouting distance of useful torque and power..
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