Before you start:
Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area. Your cloth and hair will smell like fuel
after the job, so wear something you are going to throw in the laundry.
You will spill fuel no matter how carefully you do this.
It took me 3 hours to complete this job. You'll probably get it done in less.
Always be careful of fire hazard since you are dealing with fuel.
What you need:
12 mm socket, 3 inch extender, philips screw driver, 3/16 inch pin punch,
basic hand tools (or 12V power tool), mini screw driver kit, hammer,
oil collector pan, cloth or bunch of wipes, plastic bag, mini vacuum cleaner,
needle nose pliers, gloves, common sense
1. Remove rear seat cushion. There are two 12 mm bolts and two clips holding
the seat. The bolts are located exactly center of each seat where the
back meets. You don't have to take apart the back of the seat or anything else.
Once the two bolts are removed, there are two clip like thing on the front
of the cushion. Push them in while raising the cushion.
2. Using the philips screw driver, remove the 4 screws, then remove the Service Cover.
3. Disconnect the two electrical connectors.
4. Open the fuel cap from outside, and wait for about a minute or two. You can
vacuum the dirt that's under the Service Cover.
5. Close the fuel cap.
6. Start the engine, and let it stall. Mine stalled in 2 seconds.
7. Ignition OFF, and disconnect the battery.
8. Disconnect fuel feed tube, vacuum tube, canister close valve connector.
There won't be much fuel coming out, just 5-10 drips, but it will keep dripping slowly
so make sure you put a towel or something to suck it up.
9. Remove the rubber cover which looks like a ring. It's about 1 inch thick.
It's hard to grab the rubber. I used the back of my hammer to pull one side up,
then it was easy to pull it off.
10. Again, vacuum this area.
11. Now you have to get the Fuel Pump Plate Cover (steel ring) off.
This is the hard part for us that don't have the Special Service Tool (09310-2B200).
Grab a 3/16 inch size pin punch (or brass punch), put the punch in an angle,
and hit it with a hammer rotating the position every few hits. You might want to make sure
there's no gas around just in case it sparks from the hammer and the pin punch.
It'll move very slowly, so take your time.
The steel ring must rotate counter clock wise at least couple turns to get it off.
Up to this point, it's only about 1/3 job done. You still have 2/3 to go.
12. Once the steel ring is taken off, you can start wiggling out the fuel pump assembly.
Be careful while pulling it out because there is a Fuel Level Sensor and some kind of a
pre-filter hanging on the whole thing.
There will be a lot of fuel spilling out of the fuel pump assembly now, and every time you
move it around. When you are ready to completely pull it out, get an oil collector pan and
put it in there. Take it out from your car now.
13. Cover the fuel tank with plastic bag, and put the rubber ring or steel ring on top
so it doesn't fall, and no dirt gets in.
14. Now, on the assembly, disconnect two electric connections from the top plate.
I used a mini flat screw driver to loosen the hooks. Be careful not to break anything.
15. Take off the U shaped silver steel plate holding the steel circular thing.
I don't know what to call it. (see the second picture in step 18. You can see that U shaped steel plate thing)
16. By now, you should be ready to remove the most outer cover (white plastic) from the assembly.
This outer cover holds the Fuel Level Sensor, and a pre-filter hanging on it.
There are three large plastic hooks that holds the inner assembly which has the fuel filter, cover,
black top plate with two spring. Stick a mini flat screw in each hooks, and separate the inner
assembly from the outer cover.
17. Now, the inner assembly. There's one more small plastic connecting part on the fuel filter which hangs on a
black tube from the black top plate. (see the second picture in step 18.)
It's held by three small hooks, and they could be tricky to get these off.
Use the mini flat screw driver and carefully remove.
18. Now you need to remove the black top plate from the inner assembly. The black top
plate has two rods with springs. On the end of the rod, there's a C-clip (washer) which acts as a retention.
There should be two of these, but mine only had one.
Remove that, and now the black top plate can be removed from the inner assembly.
19. Using a flat head screw driver, pull out the fuel filter. There are three large hooks
on the cover that holds the fuel filter. The plastic housing and a shiny canister like thing
(I think that's the actual pump) should be left with the housing.
20. Compare the old filter with the new one and make sure no rubber seal or anything is missing.
Then slide in the new filter in, hook up the plastic hooks, make sure it's clipped properly.
Mine didn't have anything left out, so it was just a matter of plugging everything back in.
Don't forget the tiny C-clips on the spring rod.
While putting back the steel ring, I tried hammering the pin punch after tightening with hands,
but it would just pop out. So I just hand tightened them using both hands, as hard as I could.
This job was done January 21, 2012. I had 58736 miles on my Elantra 2007.
During the weekend, I also replaced my spark plugs (NGK copper. Had Autolite double platinum since 28763 miles.
It had some rust in the threads, so this time I used some anti-seize), air filter (last replcement @ 28763),
cabin air filter (last replacement @ 46067). My car didn't really have any problems, but I feel the car starts
I also posted this in elantraxd forums. The attached pdf file is a print out from there just in case the pictures are no longer available some time in the future.