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very urgent help need for XG30 2001

4K views 14 replies 4 participants last post by  sangar20051 
#1 ·
dear sirs, madams,....
I have Hyundai xg30 2001, my car is down and not have drive that`s more than 6 months and no one or no body in my city (Kirkuk city, Iraq country) can help me I taked it to more than 15 persons that work on fixing Hyundai cars but they didn't know what is the problem with my car> !!!
I have 2 ECU unit and for every one have a specific codes when put computer to check the problems,
for the 1st ECU the old or original unit I have these codes:
P1609
P1110
P0227

and for the new ECU unit I buy it and put it on my car I get these codes :
P1172
P1609
P1147

please some one help me I be very tired with it that is 6 months my car not working well


regards
sangar taha
 
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#2 ·
for the 1st ECU the old or original unit I have these codes:
P1609
P1110
P0227

and for the new ECU unit I buy it and put it on my car I get these codes :
P1172
P1609
P1147
P1609 = Immobilizer Communication.-Malfunction
P1110 = Fuel Pump - Stuck On
P0227 = Throttle Position Sensor 3 Signal Circuit Low Input
P1172 = ETS-Improper Motor Current
P1147 = Accel Position Sensor(ETS) Circuit / Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APS) Circuit Malfunction / Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APS) Circuit - ETS

Could you be more specific about 'not working well' ? Codes tell your car isn't running at all.
Has it ever been driving ? Or did you buy it as is ?
 
#4 ·
yes it was running before just the battery was dead and we changed the battery but we puted the + and - Reverse and then the car down and get all these errors and the car dwon it is running now but not driving there are no Accelerator !!! that is 6 months we changed ECU and Accelerator and TPS with all wires from ECU to the engine but there are no thing changed we put the Accelerator on other XG car it is working but when we get it back to my car it is not working please help please
 
#3 ·
From looking around the forum for a few months, it seems Hyundais have a problem with grounds, and all of those problems could be associated with a bad ground. Poke around and make sure all ground straps are tight and properly connected.
 
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#8 ·
Man, you fried parts of your car's electronics by connecting the battery backwards and now you expect us to tell you from the distance how to fix that ?

Minimum you need is a matching combo of engine ECU and immobilizer. You can't just mix. So when you take engine ECU from donor car you also need to swap over immobilizer box - which also includes changing key & ign. lock (unless you have someone there capable of 'matching' random components but it doesn't sound like that).
Does your vehicle have an immobilizer at all ? Some markets (far east in your case) may not have had one installed, depends also if yours in a genuine delivery to Iraq or a later import from wherever on the globe .

Once you get the engine running at least in a limp mode you can go on debugging whatever errors may be left.

If I understand your post above well you are in the situation that the engine idles but you can step on the pedal and the revs won't change ?
You also seem to have ruled out the pedal position sensor (the one at the end of the pedal wire) by testing it on some other car.
So please focus on that partly working combo, delete the codes, do a test run and post whatever fresh codes may come up in a test run.
Blind guess from the codes you posted up there, the electronic throttle module is your candidate to deal with. Throttle plate stuck (->improper motor current) or something. Maybe something went wrong with your TPS installation ? Was it adjusted to spec ?
 
#9 ·
dear e3tom...
really really very very thanks for all your help.
yes sir we adjusted many time the TPS. and for immobilizer do you mean module immobilizer the black one? and when it will be located exactly?
the car running but not driving not have accelerator not at all, we deleted the codes many times but they back immediately. also the throttle accelerator end near the engine is working when we put it on other car but when back it to my car it not have any working.
 
#10 ·
please need some good solutions and suggestion please .

and e3tom please can you replay to me and answer my last replay please .

really iam very sad and tired with this car because that is 6 months it`s not working and have these problems.
 
#13 ·
I have a old 1992 F-150 Ford Pickup that drove me crazy all summer. It kept dying as I was driving it. The engine would just shut off while driving down the highway. After letting it sit for about 10 minutes, it would start back up. It was kicking out all kinds of diagnostic codes at random, and I kept replacing parts related to the codes. It got progressively worse until finally it wouldn't run anymore. After 2 months of throwing parts at it, ($400.00 worth) I gave up trying to figure it out and had it towed to a garage that was an expert on Ford trucks. The problem turned out to be a bad on-board computer.

I'm not saying for sure that's what your problem is, but if you reversed polarity, it's a good bet you fried components in your computer. That's what I would be looking at were I you...

Good luck...
 
#11 ·
Well, if it were me with these codes:

P1609 = Immobilizer Communication.-Malfunction
P1110 = Fuel Pump - Stuck On
P0227 = Throttle Position Sensor 3 Signal Circuit Low Input
P1172 = ETS-Improper Motor Current
P1147 = Accel Position Sensor(ETS) Circuit / Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APS) Circuit Malfunction / Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APS) Circuit - ETS
Those components look like a good place to start. If you can get the parts from a junkyard I would try that rather than buying new parts just to see if I could get it running and then work from there. Like the other guy said, do the ECU and the immobilizer from the same car, or new, and also the other things mentioned by the code scan.

Problem is, when you hook up a battery the wrong way all kinds of things can go wrong, and it could actually be other components that are fried and fooling the OBD.

BTW, your English is good. Not fantastic, but good enough!
 
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#12 ·
Well, if it were me with these codes:



Those components look like a good place to start. If you can get the parts from a junkyard I would try that rather than buying new parts just to see if I could get it running and then work from there. Like the other guy said, do the ECU and the immobilizer from the same car, or new, and also the other things mentioned by the code scan.

Problem is, when you hook up a battery the wrong way all kinds of things can go wrong, and it could actually be other components that are fried and fooling the OBD.

BTW, your English is good. Not fantastic, but good enough!


dear Steampunk
thanks so much i will be try to see what i can get from e3tom and you and test my car depend on your suggestion and will be back to you to give the results, hope i get all things done as soon as by your helps
 
#14 ·
If I understand well, you tested your ETS/ETC (throttle module) on another car and it worked there, same for the pedal sensor, right ?
Did you also test the other car's ETS on yours ?
Immobilizer is apparently not a subject here since you are able to start the engine.
I can only guess that something is still wrong at your car that you haven't tested/swapped
1. wiring (that got fried and maybe melted together somewhere, making a short or open). I'm afraid you may have to test all the wiring btw ECU, TPS, pedal sensor & ETS if swapping electronic boxes doesn't fix it.
2. Are you aware that the el. throttle system has its own control box (under the climate controls in the center dash, sized like a cigarette pack) plus the traction control module E-TCM (also in the center dash but more on the rear part near the floor, close to the accelerator pedal) ? Did you swap these, too - or just the engine ECU ?
@Danny_D: As you see the XG has way more than one computer that can make trouble when it comes to engine control.
It's not 1992 or even 1996 anymore (when my Sonata was built that has only one for controlling the engine, plus one for immobilizer, one for the tranny and one for the ABS). And yes, for sure something got fried.
 
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