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Coupe 2008 - Electrical Problems

11K views 11 replies 3 participants last post by  AUTOSPARK 
#1 ·
I have a very strange problem with my car and I am trying to find a solution. It is something to do with wiring/fuses in my car. It used to drain energy and my clock lights were always on. I changed the battery myself, not sure what or when I did, but my car started loosing electrical supply entirely when the keys are out and clock light was no longer on, radio lost its setting every time, hazard lights and central lock did not work. Today they fixed it at a garage, but it is now back to energy draining situation clock lights are always on. Now central lock works with key, but not the wireless fob. It never worked with wireless fob. I have read the resetting instruction. Here are my findings, in the situation when the car lost all power without key, I put the key in, turn to acc mode, press unlock button on the fob as per instructions in the manual the indication would blink as per manual, but as soon as it is set and I take the key out, the car looses power and the central lock does not work. In the situation where the power is now back on and the clock is always lit up with blue background light, when I put the key in and turn into acc mode, press the unlock button on the fob, nothing happens, no indicators blink, wireless fob does not work. I think the car does not understand that it is in off mode (because some circuits are still powered). Probably does not make any sense to you, sorry for that, but please help if you can, guys at the garage could not fix it. :(

Two things I am trying to achieve - to make sure the battery is not draining energy, my wireless fob works.
 
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#2 ·
hello & welcome to the forum 00000732

A bit of history might be helpful :

How long have you owned the car?
When did the clock illumination first stay on with the key removed?
Has there been any modifications to the car? Aftermarket radio fitted or anything like that?

My guess is you had a blown BATT fuselink on the engine bay fusebox. That fuselink supplies voltage to the fuses on the dashboard fusebox that supply power all the circuits you said stopped working (radio memory, door locking, etc). But the problem with the clock illumination sounds like you have a short circuit between the ignition switch ACC circuit to a constant 12V supply. That may also be causing your key fob to fail because normally the key fob wont operate the locks while the ignition is on.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for your reply becoming a bit clearer but still don't quiet understand what to do... I have taken it to a garage, but problem was not fixed, so I'd rather get my hands dirty and fix it myself. However, the guy at the garage did say he checked my fuses and they were all fine.

Here is the history if that is any use:

Bought this car a year ago. It came with part history. Service stamps don't specify what has/has not been done. The previous owner had not used the car for a long time before I came to buy it as he had a new car already instead of this one. When I was buying the car the battery was absolutely flat (although it looked relatively new). The guy had to bring jump leads to start it. But other than that all was perfect, only 1 key though and the wireless central lock fob did not work. The previous owner suggested that the battery in the fob was dead, I believed.

Later on bought a new battery for the fob. But it did not fix the problem. I read the manual tried reprogramming by inserting the key and turning to 'acc' position and pressing lock/unlock button. Nothing...

NB: When I bought it and during this period the clock light stayed on, not just the digital screen but also the blue backlight. Stereo can be turned on with the key in. Also I can put my dashboard backlight on without the key in.

Some guy came to install a black box into my car for insurance purposes...

During this period my journeys were short (10 mins) and at night time mainly, so with headlamps. I started noticing that the battery was slowly dying. When I was parking the car, the head lamps dimmed down. So... It got a little bit colder... I went on a 2 week holiday, got back and the car would not start. Jump started it a few times. Then bought a new battery... Replaced it myself... Ohh and I disconnected the top part of the central interface, i.e the clock and the temp sensor on purpose. Ever since car started well... Battery did not get drained.

Bought a stereo replaced the old one myself... Potentially pulled out something, basically the car lost its electrical supply when the key was not in. Potentially it could have happened when I disconnected the top of the interface as described above. So... the central locked stopped working even with key in, i.e. could not get the other door to lock from driver's door, door lights, cabin light would not come on when doors were opened, hazard lights did not work... Every time I restart the car the clock as radio setting would reset. But interestingly at this point when I put the key in, turn it to 'acc' and press unlock on the remote fob my indicator signs did blink as they should according to the manual. But then as soon as they key is out the car has no power so I cannot use the remote central lock fob.

I had a couple of mechanical issues such as an oil leak since... but don't think its relevant.

Here we go... A week ago failed MOT: hazard lights and airbag sign stayed on... Airbag fixed apparently some cable underneath the seat... Hazard lights fixed - as in they now work without key in... so they fixed that somehow. Basically we are now back to the situation as in the beginning of last year. Clock light is on, central lock works with the key, but not the fob. When the key is in 'acc' mode I try pressing 'unlock button' as per manual - nothing happens again.

If you can help, please do :)

Thank you for your time.
 
#4 ·
It's always helpful to know a little of the cars history, so thanks for taking the time to update us.

When the door lamps, cabin lamps, hazard lamps, etc stopped working after you replaced the radio,
did the clock back light still stay on when the key was removed at that time?
Are you able to switch the radio on when the key is removed?
Does the cigarette lighter work with the key removed?
 
#6 ·
OK, that supports my suspicion that the ignition switch ACC circuit has shorted to battery positive. Now you need to try and figure out where the two circuits have joined together. The easiest first step will be to disconnect the ignition switch from the dashboard fusebox. If the clock back lighting switches off when you disconnect the ignition switch connector that suggests the ignition switch itself is where the short circuit is.

You'll need to remove the trim panel from the driver's side of the dashboard to gain access to the fusebox. The fusebox is secured to the dashboard by 2 10mm bolts. You'll need to undo the bolts and lift the fusebox off to gain access to the connectors on the rear. The ignition switch connector is the large connector with the thick wires that plugs in at the location highlighted on the photo below.

Let us know if unplugging the connector makes the clock backlighting switch off.

Scottie.

 

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#7 ·
Hello, sorry it took so long to reply. I have been on holidays.

However, whilst being away for 10 day my car battery died, so something is definitely draining the battery.

I have done all the procedures you described above. Here are my findings:

1) There was a link for the ignition block. I appreciate this is not the connection you described above, but I tried disconnecting this just in case it could save me time getting behind the fuse box, but it did not. I disconnected this adapter, when I turned the ignition key everything light up, starter was rotating but the engine did not start, as if there was no spark.

2) I found the link at the back of the fuse box, as per your picture above, it took me a while to get there as I had to disconnect all cables to get to the back of the fuse box. So I unplugged this cable, the white one on the right, see pictures 3 and reconnected all cable at the front of the fuse board. When I turned the ignition key now nothing happed lights did not go on on my dashboard - no starter rotation, nothing else. However, my radio and my clock background light did not go off and still worked.

3) Whilst carrying out this task I found an interesting box/fuse/joint - no idea. Basically I recon it is my 12V circuit, please see picture 4. Whilst I was working on this, trying to get to the fuse box, I accidentally moved/touched this presumably 12V junction box shown on picture 4, and my car lost power, lights and radio went off/reset as I described in the beginning of this thread. So it is a very weak connection, and it looks strange. I then adjusted the position of this switch, and the power went back on, left everything like this, went on holidays for 10 day. Came back - flat battery, engine did not start.

If you have any further guidance, I would really appreciate you advice.

Thank you.
 

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#8 ·
Welcome back, I hope you had a great holiday.

However, my radio and my clock background light did not go off and still worked.
The connector on the back of the fusebox that you disconnected is the wiring leading to the ignition switch. Since the clock backlight was staying on while the ignition switch was disconnected you know the fault isn't within the switch.

ssg_sergey@mail.ru said:
Whilst carrying out this task I found an interesting box/fuse/joint.... shown on picture 4.
That looks like the relay for the alarm system horn. Someone has used that nasty looking scotch lock connector to spice a wire onto the relay's 12V supply wire. I'm not sure why moving that would make the car loose all it's power unless that scotch lock connector is part of the "repair" the garage did to get the door locking, etc working again.

For now my advice is to remove that nasty scotch lock and the additional wire that has been spliced onto the red wire of the relay. Wrap insulating tape over the end of the removed wire so it doesn't short onto anything. It's difficult enough to diagnose the original fault without having to diagnose someone else's crazy idea of a "repair". If your door locking, etc isn't working again with the wire removed we'll try and diagnose the fault rather than just bypass it with a dodgy length of wire.
 
#9 ·
I wonder if this extra cable fixed with scotch is the cable for the black box?

Another thing I noticed is that when I tried unplugging my fuses, e.g. I took sunroof fuse out my sunroof still worker, tried the same with central lock and radio. Do you think the fuses are mismatched or something?
 
#10 ·
I wonder if this extra cable fixed with scotch is the cable for the black box?
What black box??

ssg_sergey@mail.ru said:
Another thing I noticed is that when I tried unplugging my fuses, e.g. I took sunroof fuse out my sunroof still worker, tried the same with central lock and radio. Do you think the fuses are mismatched or something?
That doesn't sound good. Sounds like the fuses have been bypassed somehow. That's the sort of thing that can quite literally make your car go up in smoke :surprise:

It's a little strange that those circuits are the ones that were not working when you put the car into the garage. That makes me wonder what they did to make those circuits work again.
 
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