Well, you'd have to run through the circuit to find out what's gone wonky. Obvious thing is bulbs (have you changed to LEDs?), and the fuses, and the flasher unit. It may be integrated in the Body Control Module; some are, some aren't. See if you can find the wiring diagram somewhere for this car (Google can help...or perhaps some kind soul who has one can add...) and then the switch on the column. Again, the wiring diagram would help. I believe all controls inside the car switch to ground, so you can remove the steering wheel shroud, and if you know which wire in the connector is the right side then ground it and see if it works. If so you have a faulty switch.

I would do the bulbs first and then the switch, since they are the most likely culprits, and also the fuses. After that it becomes a bit more involved.

Good luck.

 

I always like to try easy tests first, so switch on the hazard lamps and see if the right hand lamps work with the hazards on. That will tell you if the bulbs and the wiring to the lamp units are all good....quick and easy. I also wouldn't bother checking fuses (I can't believe I just typed that ). Both sides share the same fuse which kinda rules out a blown fuse.

The stalk switch would seem the most likely cause of this fault but it would be best to test it before parting with cash for a replacement.

Regards.
Scottie.

 

Thank you guys, I forgot to mention I already tried the hazard lights and all but the right side turn on so there's nothing there. It is only the flashing right side turn signals that are not working everything else(brake lights headlights taillights etc.)are responding. Also not sure if this could have anything to do with it but when I first got the car the stereo didnt work so I replaced a blown fuse and it came on but again just like the turn signals there is no audio or any type of sound coming from the whole right side of the car. The fuse I replaced restored the headlamp, trunk light, door lights, and a dash light indicating a door is open.

 

I forgot to mention I already tried the hazard lights and all but the right side turn on so there's nothing there.

That doesn't sound good. As Steampunk said, the turn signals on the GK are part of the BCM inside the dash fusebox. The fuseboxes are know for water ingress problems that can cause issues with various circuits. It's quite an expensive part to replace too.

What you can do to confirm the wiring to the lamps is good is link the output terminal on the fusebox to a 12V supply. If the lights come on that suggests it's the circuit inside the fusebox that's open circuit.

Front turn signal outputs are on connector CE terminals 5 (R/H) & 9 (L/H)
Rear outputs are on connector FF terminals 17 (R/H) & 13 (L/H)

 

I forgot to add I did not change to LEDs, everything is stock.

Alright so I began the process of removing everything off the BCM to take a look at what you posted. The problem is I'm still a bit of an amateur in the auto mechanics world but I'm working on it and already learned alot from starting this thread today (thank you guys alot).

Anyways upon removing the terminals, I noticed on the FF terminal connector there is a random purple/blue wire attached to a grey one in the connector that just dangles there and doesn't appear to belong anywhere.

On the CC terminal I looked for the wires in 5 and 9 and didn't see a wire going into 9 and I didn't know if that was normal or not. Also how do you mean for me to link the output terminal on the fusebox to a 12V supply? Again I'm still learning and electric and wiring is kind of a weakness for me right now. Ive attached pictures below.

I went out and bought a digital multimeter and so far I know how to check fuses, battery, and alternator with it. Oh and Oreillys ordered a turn signal switch for me that I will be able to pick up tomorrow in case you guys think it could be the cause and that its worth a try.

 

Anyways upon removing the terminals, I noticed on the FF terminal connector there is a random purple/blue wire attached to a grey one in the connector that just dangles there and doesn't appear to belong anywhere.

From your photo the grey wire with the blue spliced into it is FF terminal 2 which is the reverse lamp circuit. I don't know why someone would have spliced into that at the fusebox. Do you have a stereo with a reverse camera or something?

On the CC terminal I looked for the wires in 5 and 9 and didn't see a wire going into 9

You mean connector CE, right? And look a little closer...that's not terminal 9 that's empty. It's terminal 6...the numbers are upside down (5th photo above)

Also how do you mean for me to link the output terminal on the fusebox to a 12V supply?

All you do is get a short length of wire and push one end into one of the turn signal terminals on the harness connector and the other end into the fusebox 12V supply wire (the thick cable on it's own that plugs into the front of the fusebox).

You need to be very careful when doing this. Make sure you identify the correct terminal numbers or you could short something out. That would not be a good time to confuse a 6 with a 9, so take your time and double check your numbers before connecting the 12V. If your not sure what your doing just stop, come back and we'll figure it out.

Oh and Oreillys ordered a turn signal switch for me that I will be able to pick up tomorrow

I'd leave the switch at the store for now. Once you buy it they probably wont take it back, so lets make sure you need it before going to collect it.

 

Just another thought popped into my mind...I see you've bought a new multimeter. Does it have an current measurment feature with a fused socket (usually marked 10A)? If so you could use your multimeter rather than a wire to put the 12V into the turn signal wires. That will give you a little bit of protection if you were to make a mistake since the meter has a fuse.

 

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. Like I said before, those things are a common failure item and I'm wondering if there has already been a junk yard replacement BCM fitted. I also notice what looks like some iffy paintwork around the door check strap in those pictures though, so maybe it's been accident damaged at some point.

 

No back up cam that I'm aware of, the wire just sits there not connecting to anything. Oh and thanks for pointing out that it is a 6 lol. Yeah I feel better doing this the safe way, attached below is a picture of the multimeter I bought and its capabilities . If you could guide me through what to do with it and what to look for that would be great.

 

You can draw 200mA (milliamps) through it the way it's plugged in now. Unfortunatley the other side (15A) says "unfused" so any back voltage would not blow a fuse and damage the circuit being tested. You need to pull ~4A, I believe (18Wx2/12V)

 

All I know is that it came with a clean title and I spent the first week doing body work on the car. The front hood was dented in alittle bit and the bumper was cracked kinda bad. The previous owner mentioned to me that he thought the turn signal switch was bad and that he was selling as is. For 1,500 I thought it was worth it with a little work needing to be done.

 

I was already jealous enough without the pictures, thank you! :angry:

I would have picked up the "T" badges on eBay, myself. I saw a BEAUT of a Tibby in VT the other day...looked brand new, the "Arctic White" I think...sweet car.

 

What you want is something like this:

With a 5 amp fuse. Then you can jumper from 12V to the turn signal bulbs and if anything goes awry the fuse will blow.

 

lol so I guess these cars are pretty popular than. I've somehow only discovered them a couple weeks ago when this purchase was made. After all the minor and maintenance work done to it Ive reached the dreadful bcm. Since you guys told me about how common they go bad alot of research on google only backed that up. So I'm just preparing for the worse and browsing ebay for them. I hope it doesn't come down to it but if it does is there any programming involved in this or is it just plug in and go?

Car doesnt have any alarm system that Im aware of and no keyless remote or anything like that. Oh Im still kinda unclear on how to approach the bcm with the multimeter. Am I putting both positive and negative meter leads on the bcm pins or the wires in the connectors ?

Sorry this is my first multimeter and first time actually using one.

 

lol so I guess these cars are pretty popular than. I've somehow only discovered them a couple weeks ago when this purchase was made. After all the minor and maintenance work done to it Ive reached the dreadful bcm. Since you guys told me about how common they go bad alot of research on google only backed that up. So I'm just preparing for the worse and browsing ebay for them. I hope it doesn't come down to it but if it does is there any programming involved in this or is it just plug in and go?

Car doesnt have any alarm system that Im aware of and no keyless remote or anything like that. Oh Im still kinda unclear on how to approach the bcm with the multimeter. Am I putting both positive and negative meter leads on the bcm pins or the wires in the connectors ?

You don't want to use your meter for what Sparks suggested. He was suggesting you run 12V to the pins in the connector to see if the bulbs lit. Your meter can't handle the current (about 3.5 amps or so) on the Fused sied, and don't want to do it unfused. I use a straight piece of wire, but I've been a tech for um...well...er, a LONG time, so I take my chances with educated guesses. Not wise for a beginner! That's why I put up the pic of the fuseholder. You can get them at almost any hardware store, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc. You cut the loop and then strip the ends, so you have a wire with a fuse in it. If it only lights up 1 bulb at a time then we're talking about 2 amps or less.

Wait till Sparks weighs in, but I believe you want to run 12V to the pins on the connectors he referred to. This will light up the bulbs in the front and rear...won't flash, just turns them on. Then we know the wiring is OK. So then we try to determine if it's the switch or the BCM. I believe this is what he was trying to do.

Now..since I don't know this car's wiring at all, what I would want to try to do is send a "signal" to the BCM to turn the flasher on. I believe this means grounding one pin with the key on and the plugs inserted into the BCM/Fuse box. Sparks would have to run that down for you. Then we could tell for sure if it's the BCM or the switch.

BTW, Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market will find parts in your area, or further since the BCM can be mailed fairly easily.

 

There are roughly 50 of them in the US, from $40-150

 

And as I'm thinking this through....right side not working...majority of the damage to the right front (where the bumper was cracked) might mean severed wire somewhere.

Did you say the Hazard switch did NOT light up the right side? It was a bit vague to me.

 

Correct, the hazard switch works just no flashing signals on the right side or flashing green arrow indicator int the dash, so basically just works as another left turn signal. great now I cant remember if the flashers actually activated the right side indicator on the dash but I know for a fact on the outside rear and front the signals did not work. For some reason I feel like the hazards might of had 2 green arrows on the dash. I went out to check but I just remembered that I left the neg terminal on the battery disconnected and the bcm in the state of the pictures posted for the night.

Thank you this makes alittle more sense to me now. Ill probably head to autozone first thing in the morning in search for the wire and fuse setup. Oh where can I get my 12 volts from and how? Ill just type down what Im picturing in my head that makes sense to me from everything Ive seen so far, I hope I make sense of this.

So basically Im removing the connector from the bcm so that I can test the signal wires themselves to make sure current is getting through with out any problems. By doing this I will use the car battery? Oh great I think Im lost again.. ahh ok so I will use straight piece of wire like you mentioned and attach one end into the connector pin and the other end im not quite sure yet but I know there is a 5amp fuse in between the wire and where its going.

 

Thank you this makes alittle more sense to me now. Ill probably head to autozone first thing in the morning in search for the wire and fuse setup. Oh where can I get my 12 volts from and how? Ill just type down what Im picturing in my head that makes sense to me from everything Ive seen so far, I hope I make sense of this.

So basically Im removing the connector from the bcm so that I can test the signal wires themselves to make sure current is getting through with out any problems. By doing this I will use the car battery? Oh great I think Im lost again.. ahh ok so I will use straight piece of wire like you mentioned and attach one end into the connector pin and the other end im not quite sure yet but I know there is a 5amp fuse in between the wire and where its going.

Pretty much. Wait for Sparks to come back to verify...he knows these cars a wee bit better than I do

You can pick the 12V from any live circuit in the fuse box...there are a few, usually larger wires. A couple of them are on all the time, and a couple are switched with the key.

I shouldn't say any, you want one capable of handling the current; I would pick a 15 or 20A fuse to tap.

 

Well done Steampunk for noticing that the ammeter input wasn't fused. I missed that until you mentioned it and I took a closer look.

I think adding a fuse to the jumper wire is an excellent idea. If you have any crimp on spade terminals you can use those to fit a fuse to the wire. If not an inline fuse holder like Steampunk suggested would work. What I'm suggesting you do isn't really risky but you've already seen how easy it is to make a mistake with the terminal numbers so I think it would be best to add a little protection in the form of a fuse...just in case.

Normally what you'd do with this type of fault is use the diagnostic scan tool to read the signal being sent to the BCM by the stalk switch. That would tell you if the BCM was receiving the correct signals from the switch. You'd then use the tool to do an activation test on the turn signal outputs from the BCM which basically switches on all the lamps to test the wiring, etc. Unfortunately you don't have a Hyundai specific scan tool to do these tests so you're having to do it manually.

I'm sure the right hand lamps didn't light up with the hazard switch on either which is why I suspect it's a fault on the output side of the BCM. If it was a fault with the stalk switch input signal they would have come on when the hazard switch was on since that is a totally different input.

Right, it's 4am over here so I'm off to get my beauty sleep :laugh:

 

I figured we'd have to wait, since you guys are...5 hrs ahead of us? I figured you knocked off an hour ago!

 

If im following what you guys are explaining correctly than the image attached below of whats in my brain should make sense assuming the wire is going in the right pin and fuse in the box. If thats what I have to do in the morning should I have the battery connected and key in the on position?

really appreciate the help guys and look forward to this in the morning. Thank you

 

That's what we's going to do!

Look at the connectors next to the fuses; these are the inputs from the engine compartment. One of thse should be a pretty burly wire with 12V key on or off. You don't need the key if you use that wire. Just stick one end of your jumper there and the other in the correct pin on the connector and the lights should turn on.

I'm gonna join Sparks in the land of "nod". If you can wait till 10AM EST one of us should be back!

Nighty night!

 

Alright so I went out and bought a fuse holder with 12 gauge wire (not sure if that matters) and I feel like im doing something wrong by connecting one end of the fuse holder in the fuse box with a 20 amp. Where is the the fuse box main supply and am I suppose to keep all connectors disconnected for this process? oh before I started I went ahead and plugged everything back in to make sure the hazards didnt activate the right side signal in anyway and nope it sure didnt, just was bothering me.

I feel like Im really close to being able to finish this step im just alittle slow.

 

Alright guys so while I was out there I tried something that I thought would make sense. I used jumper cables and some alligator clips to get 12v from the battery and it worked!

I was finally able to diagnose the wires and lamps and they both came on, front and back right side blinker lights! except as mentioned earlier it wouldnt blink and instead stay steady and thats what it did. I would have never knew what to do if I hadnt come here thank you guys so much I think I wouldve went out and spent money I didnt have on things I didnt need lol.

Alright so I know im not done and expecting bad news like its the bcm but i still feel relieved because this is an accomplishment for me hehe.
somehow I forgot what the next step would be Ill be looking back on this thread I just wanted to share this update.

Edit:
So is there still any chance that it could be the signal switch or was that ruled out by the hazards?
Also is it worth taking the bcm apart to look for anything in there like a relay that could fix the problem? Ive read that those need to be soldered on and Ive got some experience with soldering.

 

The problem you had with your first attempt was you connected to a fuse on the fusebox, but the main fusebox power supply from the battery was disconnected so there wouldn't be any power on any of the fuses. All you had to do was connect to the wire that supplies power to the fusebox. It's the thick wire that plugs into to socket D/DE just above the fuses. I can see it dangling there in your photo

It doesn't really matter what you did was OK too and you accomplished the goal of confirming the wiring to the right hand lamps is OK. Unfortunately that does seem to confirm the fault is inside the fusebox/BCM but if you plug all the connectors back in you can use your new voltmeter to test the input signal from the switch. I'm sure the switch is OK but you can confirm just for the experience if you'd like.

The turn signal switch inputs are on connector H on the opposite side of the BCM...photos below. Right Hand Input is on terminal 3 & Left Hand Input is on terminal 13. Hazard input is terminal 18.

To test, connect the red meter probe to a 12V supply and touch the black probe onto terminal 3. Now move the stalk switch as if your going to turn right and the meter should show 12V. With the black probe on terminal 13, moving the switch to turn left should show 12V and switching the hazard lamp switch should show 12V on terminal 18. The hazard switch is a little different. It will only show 12V for as long as you hold in the switch in. When you release the switch the 12V will switch off.

BTW, the terminal numbers don't relate to the wires on the connector but to the available positions. For example, on your US car there won't be a wire at terminal 1 because that's for the immobilizer that US models don't have. But you still count that as terminal 1 even although it isn't used on your car...I hope you follow what I'm saying.

Scottie.

 

Ok I did what you mentioned and I get a 13.5v reading from pin 3 weather switch is on or not and a .400v reading from pin 13 weather switch turned or not and a 13.5 reading from pin 18 weather hazard is pushed or not. Im confused but the .4v doesnt look good Im guessing. Im using the 12v battery setting on my multimeter incase that matters.

Edit:
I also have every connector disconnected from back of the bcm (as showed in pics you just posted)

 

I also have every connector disconnected from back of the bcm (as showed in pics you just posted)

I think you'd need to have everything reconnected to test the switch. The switch may get it's ground from one of the BCM connectors that you have disconnected at the moment.

Also, I'm kinda guessing how the switch works because I don't have any wiring diagram for your car to hand right now.

Before you disconnected all the connectors off the BCM, when you switched on the RH turn signal did you hear the relay clicking on & off inside the BCM?

 

So, this is maybe a bit advanced for the abilities you have right now but I think I see how this problem can be fixed fairly easily.

It looks like the relay inside the BCM that sends the voltage to the right hand turn signals has failed. You could possibly replace the relay but I think your need to have some pretty good soldering skills to remove the faulty relay from the circuit board inside the BCM. Since your new to soldering what you might be able to do is solder a single wire onto the solder pad that controls the operation of that relay, then route it to the outside of the BCM. You could then connect that wire to an external relay and use the external relay to power the right hand lamps. It means opening up the BCM but the casing just clips together and it isn't too difficult to dismantle.

As I said, this is perhaps a bit advanced for the skills you have right now, but I've attached a couple of photos to show the relay and where on the circuit board the wire would need to be soldered in case it can help someone else in the future.

GK Coupe/Tiburon BCM Circuit Board

Solder Pads Of Turn Signal Relay

 

Hey I kinda get what your saying but does that still apply even though I had all the back connectors disconnected? If so im kind of confident in my soldering and ability to remove and replace the relay. Is part number EP2-3N1ST off of mouser the relay I would need?

Still overlooking all my options here and making sense of everything. I forgot to listen for the click in the relay when I was back there but I noticed the white relay/plug or whatever it was on the back was a bit loose and when I removed it and shook it you could hear something bouncing inside of it, not sure if that was normal. I checked the blue relays on the back and they clicked when I added power and had continuity on the other sides. (not sure if any of that was even necessary).

So if I successfully solder a wire at the correct points on the bcm I would than need to lead it out to an external relay? Does that mean I would have to go purchase one or connect it to an existing relay on the car? Where would this relay and wire from the bcm be locating at if this worked?

 

Is part number EP2-3N1ST off of mouser the relay I would need?

Yes, I think that is the correct relay. I think the best way to remove the original relay would be with a hot air gun. Trying to heat 10 solder pads all at once with a soldering iron wont be that easy.

So if I successfully solder a wire at the correct points on the bcm I would than need to lead it out to an external relay? Does that mean I would have to go purchase one or connect it to an existing relay on the car? Where would this relay and wire from the bcm be locating at if this worked?

I think you could make it work by soldering only one wire. You'd be able to do the rest of the wiring externally. You'd need to buy a new relay but it would just be a standard automotive type 4 terminal, 12V relay so it's not an expensive part. You'd mount the relay behind the dash near to the BCM. Two of the relay terminals would be supplied with 12V via a fuse, one would connect to the wire at terminal 17 of BCM connector FF and the fourth relay terminal would be connected to the wire coming from inside the BCM...diagram below :

GREEN SHOULD CONNECT TO FF TERMINAL 17 (RH Turn Signal Output)

 

Do they just plug in? I haven't opened one up, but it looks like they may just plug in:

(My photo editing software isn't quite as neat as yours...)

Heh...one good thing about Linux: you can usually find the correct program in just a few minutes...

 

Do they just plug in? I haven't opened one up, but it looks like they may just plug in:

Those relay slots are for the electric window and heated rear screen relays. Yes, those ones just plug in but the turn signal relay is soldered directly to the circuit board. Wouldn't life be so much easier if they just used plug in relays for everything. But then they wouldn't sell so many BCMs.

Heh...one good thing about Linux: you can usually find the correct program in just a few minutes...

I use inkscape on both Windows & Linux for most of my circuit diagrams. Great bit of software and totally free too.

 

So basically Instead of the wire going into the connector I would take the wire out of terminal 17 and feed it to the external relay leaving terminal 17 on connector ff empty? Ive attached a photo of how im making sense of everything you posted so far lets see if I got it lol.

 

So basically Instead of the wire going into the connector I would take the wire out of terminal 17 and feed it to the external relay leaving terminal 17 on connector ff empty?

Your picture is more or less correct. The only thing wrong with it is you need to leave the wire on terminal 17 connected to the fusebox so the voltage from your additional relay will supply the circuit inside the BCM.

Remember when you done the lamp test earlier. When you applied voltage to terminal 17, only one lamp came on. You need to put voltage into the BCM on terminal 17 so it will supply voltage to the other lamps....do you follow?

So, don't disconnect the wire from terminal 17, just splice another wire onto it and connect the end of that wire to the 87 terminal of your relay.

 

Ahh ok got it now thanks. Well work week has begun so things are going to be slowing down for me with this project. But I will keep updating as changes are made.

Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk

 

Hey guys so I got alittle lucky and a junk yard not to far from me had an 03 Tiburon with the same number BCM so I grabbed it for 30 bucks and the guy gave me 7 days to return it doesnt work, I took the signal switch for 5 bucks just incase to.. So I was really excited to get home and swap it out hoping for the best but upon connecting the last plug ( the D plug right by the fuses) it would stay in and kept falling out. So I took a closer look and realized there was no prongs in the box, great.. Aside from that the bcm I picked up looks newer and in better condition than the one I have so im hoping I can do something with this so I dont have to return it. I attached pictures below.

 

Wow! You said you had a LITTLE work to do, but I didn't realize you had THAT much work to do! That thing looks tore up from the floor u...oh...wait...that's the Junkyard car...

In pic 2 or 3 there's a relay sticking out of the dash...you should have grabbed that while you were at it. They aren't THAT expensive, but they sure are handy. They're used as turnons for heavy-duty amplifiers, but they're really made to add door lock/unlock function to a car that didn't come with it (ties into an aftermarket alarm or door popper...)

Glad you sorted it out!