Hello all, been away for a bit.
I just returned from Croatia where I took my H100 self built campervan. it was fine until...
Returning on the Austrian motorway the engine seemed to give a small leap and lost all power.
Recovery man took a quick listen, the starter seemed to spin easily without any resistance.
He diagnosed a snapped timing belt.
I`m now back in the UK via a hire car or two, and the van is (hopefully) being transported to my door as the AA recovery service deemed this quick diagnosis as enough to declare it uneconomical to repair. (They also didn`t want to transport it home either, mentioning helping me scrap it....!)
So, here`s my query.
How can I easily diagnose a broken belt? Will removing the upper timing cover do it?
If it has broken, what other damage might I expect, re valves piston and head?
I know it`s impossible to diagnose via a forum, but any examples of other instances wil help me build a picture of possible results.
Now.. here`s the kicker.
Two weeks before the trip I used a local garage to replace...............................
The timing belt!
Now this worked fine for a week, then on two occasions it started with a splutter, loads of black smoke, and mad fast/slow idling.
I took it back to the garage thinking they had the timing wrong, or it had slipped, they of course insisted it was spot on and advised a can of redex!
The trip started the day after, so i did as suggested and all seemd ok.
Now I know it wasn`t.
I believe if the belt has snapped I have legal recourse to rebuild by this garage, (not that Id trust it) but just possibly, it may not be the belts fault.
Can anyone think of anything that may cause a new belt to fail?
Thanks for reading,
Dave.

Hey guys, can anyone out there tell me how to install a pod filter to my Hyundai Accent 04 - Using the correct patrs please

Hi I have a H-1 9 seater minibus problem starting. starts cold but if you
try to start hot it fails, you have to leave it 2hrs before it starts again, in garage on
computer diagnostic, cannot find fault can anybody help?

Im looking at a h100 soon, just wondering what rpm these pull at 100kmh?

Also is the any difference in diff ratio between the commercial van and the people mover van?

thanks

Hi all,

Just picked up a second hand 2008 iMax with only 6000km on the dial.

Since I like to do the intermediate services on cars myself between the scheduled ones, I'm looking for info on specific parts that are compatible with this model (Imax 2.4L petrol, auto).

I would rather put in NGK spark plugs instead of the OEM crap, so does anyone know a compatible NGK plug? The conversion charts arent updated for this model yet it seems.

Also, what oil is best to use for fuel economy? Seems this model is VERY POOR on fuel economy. I'm close to double what they claim it should be.

Any other service/type/parts info is welcomed. The user manual is pretty crap compared to other car brands in this regard.

Hi guys, Im considering replacing my allmost dead 91 L300 with a diesel 98-02 h100.

Can anyone tell me the relationship between the L300 and the h100?

are the h100's running the mitsi motor/gbox?

Ive seen a few advertised as 2.5L and also 2.6L diesels

there seem to be a few electical gremlins with these h100's, anything else they suffer from? rust? leaky (oil) motors?

thanks

So yesterday i was driving along, when suddenly i had to brake really hard ... Someone in front of me decided he wanted to turn ... So with lot of sliding and tire smoke i came to a halt, not hitting anything. So i drove off, but from that moment my brakes were just simply gone ...

It's like when you start the engine, the first few seconds you can't push in the brake pedal, well it's like that the entire time now ...

Any ideas ?? All help is appreciated !!!

Need help with my Hyundai H1 -01, the generator broke and I need a new one..but I have a problem.
It seems like there are three diffrent kind of generators too choose from: 75, 90, 110 ahmpere.
I have made a lot of calls too diffrent repairshops and they think I have a 75 Ah in my car..but I can´t find that model too a reasonable price.
So, my question is:
Does a 90 ah generator fits on the attachment,or do I have to rebuil it to fit?
Sorry for my spelling..hope you understand what I mean =)

Thant you =)

Hi all
anyonw can help me to find an Owner's manual for Hyundai H100 Grace 1996

Thank's

Fernando

Hi there everyone,
I am looking for a workshop manual for my hyundai starex 1999-club series. This unit was purchased in the Philippines. I will be very grateful to anyone who can share me where i can buy a manual for my unit. Thanks a lot guys!

Yours truly,
jaime

Hi, I just bought a Hyundai Starex SVX 2002, and I would like to have the owner's manual.

Is there any place in which I would get a copy, maybe in PDF.

Thanks

Bruno

anyone knows the size of the rear speakers of this van and how to access it, i cant seem to take off the sidings that covers the speaker mounts? thanks!

OK. I have recently purchased a 2001 H-1 van fitted with the 2476cc D4BH (TCi) engine.
And very nice it is too. However it does require a good service and some tlc .
So one of the tasks is to change all the belts. I have received parts to do the job from my Hyundai dealer. So I have started the job and got as far as the bottom part of the timing belt cover -
which will not come off!
So, looks like I have to remove the external drive belt pulley to do this. How do I proceed?

I have managed to glimpse inside the cover and to my surprise found that there are in fact 2 belts!
So, my dealer has not done a very good job in supplying me with only one belt and tensioner for a
vehicle that requires 2

Does anyone know where I can get a workshop manual?

Hope someone can help cos I've not been able to find out very much at all about these vehicles
- and I really need to be back on the road.

Booney

PS: I'm new here, why not have a drink with me in New members forum!

hello all!
did anyone tried to change bulbs in front lights in H 100 van??
looks like i would have to dismantle half of front in my van to do it??
is there a chance to do it by myself or do i have to go to the garage??
thx for your help
cheers:)

A few pics of our H100 around France this June.

Utah Beach Normandy

Gueret Limousin region

Treignac limousin

Outside orleans


Anyone else done any mods?
Anyone know where I might source a rear and side step?
Will Mitsubishi L300 stuff fit?
Dave.

So I've just received an email from a veg oil conversion company saying that "their records" show the H100 with D4BF engine has a Lucas pump. Shocking, especially after all the research I've done which says its a Bosch EP-VE pump, ideal for veg oil!

Anyone know any definitive answers to what sort of pump is in this engine? I've got a picture from this site which I'm going to "try" and compare to my engine this evening but we'll see...

http://www.freewebs.com/hcii/pumpidentification.htm

Hi, have own and driven a Starex Van for the last 6 years. Very Happy with it.
Wondering when is the next complete model change and not just a facelift.

Does anyone know why we can't get the H-1 in the United States? It would be a great solution for many of our fleets but we cant get them!

Elliot

I'm trying to find out if I can get my highly uneconomical H100 DT (Standard) to run on part vegetable or cooking oil. I currently only get 240 miles max out of a full tank of which that can cost £45 a pop.

Do these engines need converting to do this? I am not referring to biofuel here, although if anyone knows anything on making my van cheaper and more eco friendly to run using bio/veg/cooking oil, please let me know.

Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum and I own a 2004 H1 2.5 td 100hp. This is the same motor as the 80hp models with an intercooler. I live in the UK. Will I be able to run a mix of veg oil with diesel in the tank? Right now I get about 580km to the tankfull, 60liter tank . I don't let it run dry usually 6-7 liters still in it when I refill. That is mostly highway driving at 70 mph. I want to be able to run a little cheaper as diesel is skyrocketting in price. I am also going to remove the fan to see if I can get a little better Fuel economy. Since I don't do much stop and go driving, fan is not really needed and a drag on the motor. Any help is welcome.My van is left hand drive, 6 passenger.

Hi everyone,

I am looking to buy a 2001 H100 2.5 D to do a mobile car wash. Will the van be able to carry 1500kG (includes full water tank and all equipment) Will the axles struggle? Will it be a struggle to drive, pull away etc? And were would i place the tank. Front middle or back? Sorry for all the questions. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks speak soon.

For those who are not aware of the benefits here it is in a nutshell.
• How does alcohol/water injection work?
By injecting a fine spray of alcohol/water into the inlet air stream of the engine, the charge air is dramatically cooled and the effective octane of the fuel is raised. Both help to eliminate detonation — the enemy of any engine, especially those using today's lower octane fuel under boost. For turbo diesel engine you will get a 100% fuel burn and on average pick up 20% to 30% more horse power over your RPM band. Turbocharged Gas engines will on average pick up 20% more horse power. You will notice immediate gains in performance. Your turbo will spool up faster, your top end will be noticeably improved and you will get no detonation.
What are the other benefits of alcohol injection?
1. Steam cleaned motor, alcohol injection will remove 95% of all carbon on the inside of your engine and keep it that way dramatic increase in engine life. There is no fuel additive on the market that can clean your engine as well. This means less maintaince , were talking almost zero carbon build up on plugs combustion chambers and valves!
2. Eliminate black smoke in turbo diesels by 95% under load.
3. Reduce emissions making a marked improvement in air quality.
4. More Kilometers per liter, more power at less throttle equal more liters per Kilometer.
5. Zero detonation
6. Intake air temperature reductions of up to 37C drop. You touch your intake it will be ice cold even on the hottest day after the system is on.
7. Reduction of Exhaust gas Temperatures as much as 93C, which increases horsepower and eliminates detonation especially on chipped vehicles with increased timming and boost.

Common question will injecting water/alcohol into my motor harm it, This is a complete myth water is produced in the combustion process in rather large amounts already. Methanol or whatever alcohol you choice to use is in vapor form inside the engine due to it's low boiling point. On diesels you can only go a max of 50/50 on the water/alcohol mix.

A alcohol/water injected motor will be free of about 95% of carbon buildup and stay that way as long as your using it.

Fact about water production in internal combustion engines.

Look something like this for each 100 gallons of gasoline burned diesels are similar.

90-120 gallons of water
3 to 10 gallons of unburned gasoline
½ to 2 pounds of soot
¼ to 1 pound of resins and varnishes
1 to 4 pounds of nitrogen and sulfur acids
6 to 10 ounces of insoluble lead salts (if leaded gasoline is used)
1 to 2 ounces of hydrochloric and hydrobromic acids.

If you don't believe it then feel free to look it up.

Now some dyno's these are both 2.5L engines mechanical pumps no electronics.

This vehicle is bone stock no modifications but a cold air intake. No boost controllers.
Guess what folks this is done with the factory intercooler completely by- passed. We completely ditched the factory intercooler, There is a DO1gph nozzle pre turbo which you can see from the charts the resutls of the instant spooling it provides even with 100% water the TQ off the line is impressive and a DO2gph nozzle at the intake to further cool things down.

Now a DO3gph nozzle at the intake would work just as well on most vehicles but this one struggled to make boost so we did pre-turbo which makes the little turbo act like a big one.

We did pulls with 30/70 methanol/water and then switch over to 50/50 denatured because the meth was already mixed at 30% gains probably would have been even greater with the methanol.

Note the mixture was 30/70 methanol/water if it is not stated on the dyno sheet. The other mix we use was 62P bottle of Ethly alcohol from the drug store 500ml and 500ml water for the 50/50 mix. The gains were larger
System activates at around 1400rpm on this 2001 Starex
BASE LINE VS 100% WATER

Note 30lbs or around 40nm tq that you have at activation of the system even with 100% water vs the stock. This is the pre-turbo injection benifit. Little turbo acting like a bigger more efficient turbo.


Here is a comparison of different activation points with 30/70 methanol /water..


TQ numbers
Notice the 50lbs or 67nm improvement at 1500rpms and 38lbs or 51nm at 2500rpms.


This is were we change it up to 50/50 mix, The methanol was already pre-mixed so we had to go with ethyl alcohol which I bought for 62P in a 500ml bottle. Gains will be higher with methanol because it has a higher octane number and better cooling.

Once again 50lbs more TQ AT 1500rpm the turbo spools up instantly when the system starts to inject. The effect is instant torque at low RPM's.


Bottom line 18% more power and 23.5% more torque on this pretty meager engine.

Diesel have 20% to 30% unburnt fuel even a ratio of 15% alcohol will significantly reduce your emissions by giving you a 100% burn and the extra power is just a bonus.

Here is a Mazda MPV that just installed the kit and the dyno results from last month.

Great results at 1500 to 3000rpm power and torque increases are great but the turbo does fall flat on it's face at around 3600rpms a pre-turbo nozzle would give you alot more gains in your top rpm range.
But look at the max gains.


1500 rpms 14hp TQ 47LBS Max HP Gain 43% Max TQ gain 46%
2000 rpms 32hp TQ 84LBS Max HP Gain 63% Max TQ gain 65% HUGE!!
2500 rpms 17hp TQ 36LBS MAX HP Gain 20% Max TQ gain 21%
3000 rpms 10hp TQ 19LBS MAX HP Gain 10% Max TQ gain 11%
To give you a ideal how well the system is working when you just look at the gains on just water alone it's enough to be impressed.

1500rpms 6.3hp gain- 20% over stock / TQ 22lbs 22% over stock
2000rpms 18hp gain - 36% over stock / TQ 47lbs 36% over stock
2500rpms 12.5hp gain- 15% over stock/ TQ 26lbs 15% over stock
3000rpms 6.9hp gain- 7% over stock/ TQ 12lbs 7% over stock

Even just using water give you good gains and if you want more power just add some alcohol to the mix and you got it. There is simply no modification for the money that can do this and all without changing anything about your engine. Even on pure water you get marked improvements in acceleration and fuel economy as well as reduced emissions.

As we stated before these vehicles have undersized turbos and the pre turbo injection signifiacatly helps them with the top end power Just compare the starex dyno. If he puts on a Pre turbo nozzle the power up to will be much greater.
All in all very impressive must be a blast to drive compared to stock.

Hello forum members as a newbie on this site i would like to introduce myself and my van a H100 TD DLX(1998 s),75,000 miles
I have used her as a courier van now for 7 months and i am very impressed with her(apart from a few electrical maladies)

I would like to share a few of my experiences here:

non functional indicators/hazards-eventually found this to be a dry cracked joint on output of flasher relay needed a magnifier to see it-easy fix

electric windows-understand this is common fault work when they want-found the switch contacts very burnt.

radio takes ages to work after numerous thumps on dash-will be changing soon

i never use supermarket diesel,i have found that standard ESSO fuel system energy diesel gives me 280+ to a tank very impressed indeed,and with about 7 litres still in!

front tracking-just had four new corners Hankook RA08 £156,tracking was 11mm out,no wonder tyres were knacked

I am in negotiation with a friend of mine who says he can get hold of the official manual from our local dealer who says its not been touched in years,i'll believe it when i see it but be assured i will share the wealth!


just one question for an old hand-how do front discs split off the hubs?

bye for now,steve

I'm trying to install an on board computer to record driver habits on my 2007 H1. Does anyone knows if this car is OBD II compliant?

Hi all i have a 97 h100 2.5 std van had it for 8 months nice clean straight van which i use for work as a decorator and for pleasure with my two young boys and all our mountain bikes etc . Nice to drive untill the wind picks up then it gets blown all over the road on the front, just had mot done with no problems found on front suspension any ideas how to improve stability would be great

I have been lusting after a sunroof or two for my van for a while now for better light and ventilation, and was just going to fit two Peugeot 106 roofs from a scrapper like the VW T4 lot do. Then I saw some of these on a Toyota Townace.



So, I located a set, complete with motors frames etc for a good price.
So what does anyone think, will they fit?

Some pics of filters for anyone unsure of their location.
Air filter is located behind the drivers wheelarch and is secured with a butterfly nut. Simply unscrew, swap filters and replace.
You can see the removeable panel under the drivers seat on this one



You can see where it is in relation to the mudflap here


Fuel filter is in plain view over by the battery and secured to the rear bulkhead by a couple of nuts





you can see the two nuts better on this one. The filter itself screws in to this ally mounting from underneath. Some people like to completely remove the mounting for ease as it only involves the two (13m I think) nuts and the two clips on the fuel pipes,and the filters can get a little stuck.

This may help


sorry about quality, my scanners not rigged up.

After tearing my hair out trying to get accurate info about H100 wheels, I chanced across these bad boys on ebay!



They come from an 02 Hyundai Coupe with the 5 stud wheels 114 stud ,67mm centre bore. Offset is 38.
The ones in the pic are 16"with 205/55/16 tyres which means I have a very slight rub on the front wishbones.This however is easily banished by using some wheel spacers. I used 10mm as the balancing weights on the back need 5mm clearance, but you can get 3 5 6 and 9 as well as silly sizes.
Cost of the wheels with tyres was £100. Cost of spacers was £24.00
Next mod is decent tinting on side and rear windows.
Anybody else tarting up their van?

Hi Folks
A quick hello and loud shout for help please..

I have a 2000 H100s dlx which is 250 miles short of the 100,000 marker.

Over the last few days Ive had the following elec problem which began, maybe coincidentally, with me leaving the key turned in the ignition to charge up my mobile phone....

Turn the key
No glowplug sign illuminates

repeat several times

turn key, pause, glowplug sign comes on and straight off (2 nice postive clunks from the relay) but engine wont start although it turns over beautifully, just doesnt 'catch'

I wait

I wait

eventually turn key glowplug sign ON, wait for off, then will start OK.

When its running, it runs beautifully, no problems with that.

I called the AA yesterday (waited 2 hours) and he didnt even lift the seat, just said it might be the immobiliser (I didnt know I had one).

I dont understand engines too much, could I have burnt something out when i left the ignition on? (was only for 30 mins max)

Can I bypass the immobiliser?

Any ideas will be greatly accepted, the van is worth £0 so I cant warrant too much investigative work at the local garage.

Thanks alot

Bunker

Engine seems to have lost power. Acceleration is very poor. Also I cannot get it to go much over 90kmh/60mph.

This is a 1999 Hyundai H-1 (Starex) van, 2.5L Regular diesel engine, no turbo, no rails, manual trans.

When I am driving quietly, you would not know there is a problem at all. But as soon as I press the gas pedal a little too much, the engine seems to give up.

It idles perfectly. However, when the engine is idling and I press the gas pedal hard, the RPM increases for a second and then goes back to normal idling. Also, when I do this, the "check engine" lamp lights up after a few seconds and remains lit until I let go of the gas pedal. Is this possible to diagnose?

The "check engine" lamp aslo flashes a second or so before engine startup, but it has always done that. Think this is normal?

I have done the basic stuff like changed the diesel and air filter and have run diesel cleaning stuff through the fuel. Do dice.

Thought diesel engines were simlpe, but now I am kind of out of ideas. Is there a gauge or something like the gasoline lambda sondes for diesel engines as well, or is the engine computer controlled or something?

Ideas please...?

Brgds Karsten

Just want to thank the mods for taking the time to create this sub forum for us. It makes me very happy.

Now all the relevant posts are all together, it`s really easy to poll through for info.
Any other users out there, please add your thoughts, on anything to do wiith these vehicles, and perhaps we`ll have a nice database of technical info before too long.
Dave.

Hi 1 and all.

Drove my van to my first site yesterday morning, my headlights wouldn't turn off! Would go from headlights to sidelights but won't turn off completely. Removed fuses to stop battery going flat. I was thinking relay, went to the main "stealers" to seek guidance.They said it wasn't relay, probably module( I think they mean ECU) No proper investigation, just assumption! Cost of part, not including fitting £435. Over 500 quid to be able to turn my lights off, on a van worth approx £1200! Me thinks not. Anybody have any ideas, switch seems to be fine, indicators, tail lights, break lights, main beam all working fine. I can live with removing fuses for now, but MOT man may not be so accomodating in a few weeks! Any simular experiences (and hopefully cheap remedies) by fellow owners would be gratefully received.

I have a Hyundai H100 2.5 Diesel Turbo Year 2001 (Standard) and its recently started chugging while moving. Its as if it is misfiring but the engine doesnt cut out, it just chuggs. When coming to a stand still, the idle time, which is normally around 800 rpm, will vary itself between 800 and 1200 rpm, randomly moving up and down.

Has anybody got any ideas as to what this could be? I've recently had the oil and oil filter changed, along with the air filter but its still happening. It cant be good for the engine.

Any advice appreciated,

This may seem a stupid question to you mechanical folks out there but how do you get access to the Headlamps to change the main beam halogens

I have a problem with my H100 - 1995 model. The engine does not become warm even after long time driving. I have changed the thermostat but with no change. I have tested the thermostat in boiling water and it seems to open fine just before the water is boiling.
I have noticed that the radiator fan is running always - as soon as I start the engine - is that normal?
Should it not start when the engine needs cooling?
What other causes to my problem can there be other than a defect thermostat?
Any sensor somewhere to check?

Please advice if you could help me out here!l
Thank you in advance. :-)

Front wiper starts to run on their own, parking light front dead, dashboard light dead, rear running lights dead (even plate light). All fuses found are all ok. Break-light and direction lights are all OK. Im desperate for a circut diagram.
Please help
Svein

Hi, i have a S reg h100 dlx. The engine oil cooler pipe has burst, resaulting in loss of engine oil. The engine has not seized. Ihave had the engine running since, but it sounds like one of the crank shells has picked up. I am looking for some torque settings for the main and big bearing caps, so i can replace them. If anyone can help, i would be greatful.

hi,

I recently bought a W registered H100 van in very good order and would like to keep it that way. So here I am ready to take advice from more the experienced.

From the little that I have managed to browse so far, workshop manuals seem to be restricted to agents - has anyone found a way of getting sight of one? Half of the fun of a vehicle is spending ages peering at the manual. What do you mean 'get a life'?!!

Regards,

Hitch

Hello all!

I have recently decided to do a full brake job on my 2001 H-100 van. I removed my front brake rotors and had them turned. I would like to reassembly the parts according to factory torque specifications. I cannot fond any information on the web about this vehicle. Does anyone out there know what the tightening torque specs are for attaching the front rotors to the hub?? Thanks for any help you can offer!

Dan