It seems there is some confusion about the trim levels for the first-gen Santa Fe, especially for those who have just bought their cars second-hand. So I thought I would clear this up for you. This is for USA-spec only. If a Canadian member has accurate trim level information available, PM me and I'll add it here.

GL
2.4 liter 4-cylinder only
5-speed manual transmission standard / 4-speed Automatic optional
Front-wheel drive only
Fog lights and rear wiper optional (Utility Package)
Two-toned cloth interior
Discontinued for 2005

GLS
2.7 liter V6 standard / 3.5 liter V6 optional (starting in 2003)
Automatic transmission standard
Fog lights and rear wiper standard
Single-tone cloth interior
Leather-wrapped steering wheel
Monsoon Sound System (starting with 2003)
Sold throughout the 1st Gen production run

LX / Limited
2.7 liter V6 standard (2001-2002)
3.5 liter V6 standard (2003-2006)
Standard Anti-Lock Brakes with Traction Control
Chrome exterior door handles
Leather seating surfaces with heated front seats
Automatic climate control (2002 > only)
Renamed 'Limited' for MY 2006 only - Respective badge on lower left of tailgate

I finally did my first timing belt replacement yesterday. While doing research I came across this post on the alt.autos.hyundai newsgroup. I found this information to be so invaluable, that I decided to re-post it here. (If someone recognizes his own writing - please accept my apologies for copyright violations and my great thanks for such a helpful work):

===============================

The dealer will charge you $600 plus tax to change your timing belt. Is it worth 6 or 7 hours of your time to save $500? Well, the belt itself will cost you only $90 at the dealer (ask for a 10% discount on the part). (I don't recommend using an off-brand belt. Why skimp just to save $20, when you're putting in 6 hours of labor?) So if you'd gladly put in 6 hours of labor to "earn" $500, read on.

I have a 2002 Santa Fe 2.7L 2WD, but any 2001-2006 2.7L Santa Fe engine should be pretty identical. Yesterday I replaced the timing belt. Took about 7 hours. One hour was figuring out how to get the crankshaft pulley off. It's not difficult - just a bit time-intensive to remove everything to get to the belt. If you have access to Chilton manuals or AllData, then you can get some pics to go with what I describe below.

Here's the basics for changing a Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L timing belt:

OVERALL: Everything is metric. You'll need a good metric socket set. In my opinion, the longer the socket wrench you have, the easier and quicker the job will go. You'll find most bolts are "stuck" and take a good amount of force to initially break loose. But with a long socket wrench, you don't have to push that hard to apply this force. Once the bolts initially break free, most of them can be unscrewed the rest of the way by hand. Seriously, having a long socket wrench will take an hour off the job. Also, a good air-driven impact wrench is a MUST for this job. You cannot complete the job without it (unless you have a special tool to hold the crankshaft pulley from rotating while unbolting it).

1. Remove the plastic engine cover. 5 or 6 bolts.

2. Remove the front passenger wheel. Put an extra jack stand underneath the car frame for safety. I actually dropped my vehicle on the rotor because the Hyundai Santa Fe's rear spare tire carrier bolt gets so rusty, it really shakes the car trying to unscrew it and get the spare tire out (and that's after two liberal dousings with WD-40) - the vibrations and shaking can cause the vehicle to fall off the wimpy car jack that comes with the vehicle.

3. Remove the plastic wheel well panel behind the front passenger wheel. It's held on by 3 or 4 bolts along the top of the panel. To see these bolts, you kinda have to get your head into the wheel well and look up at the top of the panel. Removing this panel gives you access to the front of the engine (which faces the passenger side of the vehicle).

4. Remove the serpentine accessory belt. Just take an extra-long socket wrench - the wrench's square fits in the end of the belt tensioner - and pull the tensioner clockwise to take tension off the belt, and then slip the belt off one of the pulleys. Easiest to do this coming through the wheel well, but could probably be done from above, too. The belt will not actually come completely off until you unbolt the tensioner.

5. Unbolt the serpentine belt tensioner. There are two long bolts that hold it on. Take the tensioner and serpentine belt off. You'll see that the tensioner covered a hole in the timing belt case, and through that hole you should now see a portion of the cogged timing belt.

6. Unbolt the power steering pump pulley. It's the top pulley in the middle. You'll need to stick something through one of the holes in the pulley to keep the pulley from turning as you unbolt it. I used a smaller socket wrench with a long socket on it, holding on to the socket wrench and sticking the socket through the pulley's hole, jamming the socket against the body of the power steering pump behind the pulley. Remove the nut and the pulley.

7. You may need to unbolt the cruise control module at this point in preparation for jacking the engine. I did as a precaution, but discovered that on the 2002 Santa Fe, I really didn't need to. However, I have read an internet post that pointed out that on their Santa Fe, failure to unbolt the cruise control module caused the cable to come uncrimped when the engine was jacked, and that caused the engine to race after everything was put back together. Unbolting the module prevents its cable from getting pulled too far when you jack the engine.

8. Place a block of wood on a hydraulic jack underneath the engine oil pan, and jack it up to support the front of the engine. ("Jack it up" here means to raise up the jack, not "mess it all up".) The oil pan is immediately below the front of the engine (just behind the pulleys).

9. Unbolt the front engine bracket and take it off. This is done from the top. One bolt on the vehicle frame side (on top of the wheel well) and three bolts and/or nuts on the engine side.

10. Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley. Easy to come off. No need to hold pulley from turning, because the bolt goes through to the engine. Be careful once you get the bolt off - basically you have this pulley sandwiched by two plates - make sure you don't lose the back plate and you know which way it goes back on the pulley.

11. Remove the other half of the engine bracket still attached to the engine. First, you'll need to remove the small bolt on this bracket that faces the front of the vehicle. This bolt holds on the engine oil dipstick tube. Then, you'll find another small bolt near the top of the bracket - this bolt is impossible to see, but you'll be able to feel for it. Access this bolt from under the hood. Then return to the wheel well and remove three large bolts and the bracket will be free.

Before you remove the crankshaft pulley, you'll need to make sure the timing belt is properly aligned. To do so, you must remove the top half of the timing belt cover next.

12. Remove top half of the timing belt cover, by removing three bolts around rear sprocket, three bolts around front sprocket, and one long bolt at the bottom of this cover. This cover only goes halfway down the engine, so you can get to all these bolts from the engine compartment. I believe they require a 10mm socket.

13. Once the top half of the cover is removed, you will want to locate the timing marks on the exposed sprockets. It's a little dot imprinted on the front of each sprocket. Best viewed looking under the hood from the passenger side. The dots need to be aligned with the timing marks on the engine case. The timing mark on the engine case for the left sprocket (towards the rear of the vehicle) is a little notch located at about 11:00, and the timing mark for the right sprocket (towards the front of the vehicle) is at about 1:00.

14. Once you've located the timing marks on the sprockets and the engine, put a long wrench on the crankshaft pulley center nut and rotate the pulley clockwise until you get the top sprocket timing marks in place. (The crankshaft pulley is the very bottom center pulley. You access it through the wheel well.) You'll notice that when you get the top timing marks in place, the crankshaft pulley timing mark will be more or less aligned with a protrusion on the timing belt cover (at about the 1:00 position). If the bottom pulley is not perfectly aligned with one of the marks, don't worry about it. The important thing is to have the top timing marks for both sprockets perfectly aligned. Once you remove the crankshaft pulley and bottom half of the pulley cover, you'll see that the crankshaft sprocket tooth is properly aligned. You'll also notice that you have to turn the crankshaft pulley two entire revolutions to get the top sprockets to turn a single revolution. They are geared exactly 2:1.

15. Soak the crankshaft pulley bolt with WD-40 where its shoulder meets the pulley. I found this to be important.

16. Use an air impact wrench to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (counterclockwise). I found that the air impact wrench on maximum setting was enough to loosen the bolt without actually turning the crankshaft. It may take about half a minute to loosen up. If it doesn't want to come off, try some more WD-40 and let it sit awhile. If you try to use a socket wrench, you'll just end up turning the engine backwards. AN AIR IMPACT WRENCH IS A MUST TO DO THIS, unless you have a special tool to hold the crankshaft pulley still while turning its bolt counterclockwise. The crankshaft pulley bolt will come off along with a thick spacer.

17. Remove the crankshaft pulley. You'll probably need to wiggle it back and forth as you pull it straight off. The more you can wiggle it, the easier it is to come off. The pulley is "keyed" to the crankshaft with a pin (located now at about the 1:00 position). This pin will stay on the crankshaft, and will be what you use to make sure the crankshaft is aligned once you get the new timing belt on.

18. Remove the lower timing belt cover. 10mm socket is used to remove the 4 or so bolts holding it on (best accessed through wheel well).

19. Notice now that the crankshaft (where you pulled the crankshaft pulley off from) has its pin (the pin we mentioned in step 17) aligned with a timing mark on the engine. Take note of this alignment! You'll see the teeth on the crankshaft that drive the timing belt. One of these teeth is aligned with the pin, and therefore aligned with the mark on the engine.

NOTE: Take stock of how taut the timing belt is at this point. This is what the belt feels like under tension. It's pretty tense, right?

20. Remove the timing belt auto-tensioner. It is the cylinder-looking thing up and to the left of the crankshaft. Two bolts hold it on. Unbolt these bolts, and tension on the timing belt is released.

21. After removing the timing belt auto-tensioner, use a large C- clamp to slowly compress the pin in the auto-tensioner all the way, until you can slip a pin or smooth end of an old drill bit in through the little hole on the top of the auto-tensioner. This hole locks the tensioner's pin in the compressed position. Before you put the pin in, cover the pin with WD-40, and spray a little WD-40 in the little hole on the top of the auto-tensioner too (front and back). The pin should go all the way through from the front, through the center pin, and through the back. Enough of the pin (or old drill bit) should be sticking out the front so you can later grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out).


22. Enough tension should have been released from the timing belt so you can now gently pull it off.

CAUTION: Be very careful not to rotate the belt at this point as you are taking it off, or as you are putting the new belt on. The reason is because the left top sprocket has its springs in the compressed position (at the top of the hill, so to speak). If you rotate this left top sprocket even one tooth, its compressed energy will cause it to rotate about 8 teeth, taking it out of timing with the crankshaft and the right top sprocket. This is the voice of experience talking.

CHECK: Check the idler and tensioner pulleys that they are in good condition, and turn freely with little to no play. Replace if needed.

23. Temporarily put the crankshaft pulley back on (no need to put its bolt in), and rotate the crankshaft pulley by hand back (counter clockwise) about 5 degrees. Shouldn't be too hard to do, because the crankshaft is not in a position where it takes much force to move at this point. Pull the pulley back off and check where you are at. Keep doing this until you have moved the crankshaft by one tooth. In other words, you need to rotate the crankshaft so that instead of the crankshaft pin being aligned with the mark on the engine, the tooth to the right (clockwise) of that pin is aligned with the mark on the engine. WHY DO WE DO THIS? Because there will be a little bit of slack between the right top sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket when you install the new belt. You'll find that after taking up this slack, the crankshaft will be properly aligned with the top sprockets. But don't worry. We'll be double-checking to make sure we got it right.

NOTE: The timing belt tensioner pulley is towards the left (towards rear of vehicle), and the idler pulley is towards the right (front of vehicle).

24. Put on the new timing belt in this order: First, put it on the crankshaft sprocket at the bottom. Next, from under the hood pull the timing belt snug against the idler pulley (don't pull hard - just enough to remove most of the slack), and wrap the belt counter clockwise around the right top sprocket (the sprocket towards the front of the vehicle). With the teeth of the belt engaged on the right top sprocket, pause to check the play in the belt between the sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket. Remember when you took stock of how taut the old belt was? The belt should not be this tight. But then, it shouldn't be so loose that it comes off the idler pulley. There should be just a little bit of slack, which will be taken up when you later on replace the crankshaft pulley. Continue wrapping the new timing belt around the water pump pulley (smack dab in the middle of the engine, between all 3 sprockets, and then back up around the left top sprocket (toward the rear of the vehicle). Make sure that there is AS LITTLE PLAY in the belt between the two top sprockets as possible. The belt should be nice and snug between these two. The belt should be pretty tight at this point. You should have just enough play left in the belt to muscle it over the tensioner pulley (which is currently not under tension). If that is so, you can be assured that your timing belt is probably properly installed.

25. Now we check the timing belt installation. DO NOT CHECK THE SPROCKET ALIGNMENT YET. FIRST WE HAVE TO ROTATE THE TIMING BELT CLOCKWISE TO DISTRIBUTE THE TENSION ON THE BELT PROPERLY. Bolt the tensioner pulley auto-tensioner back on (two bolts). In one quick movement, pull out the pin (or old drill bit) from the auto-tensioner with a pair of pliers.

26. Temporarily put the crankshaft pulley back on, and screw in on with its center bolt.

27. With a long wrench on the crankshaft pulley center bolt, rotate this pulley two entire revolutions until the two top sprocket timing marks have made one entire revolution and are lined up once again with the timing marks on the engine. As you start to rotate the crankshaft pulley, you should see the auto-tensioner pin come out and return to its normal length. The entire timing belt should return to the tension you observed on the old belt before removing the auto-tensioner. If not, then you need to remove the auto-tensioner and check it.

28. Remove the crankshaft pulley center bolt with the air impact wrench, and remove the pulley.

29. CHECK THE ALIGNMENT CAREFULLY. ALL THREE SPROCKETS SHOULD NOW BE ALIGNED TO THEIR TIMING MARKS. If even one timing mark is off, you'll need to pull the belt back off and reinstall. It is easy to see if a timing mark is off by one tooth. Just look at the belt and the sprockets and observe the distance from one tooth to the next. If any one of the three timing marks is off by this amount or more, your timing is maligned. But if the marks are off only a smidgen (a small fraction of the distance between two adjacent teeth), then your timing is aligned.

30. IF YOUR TIMING BELT IS MISALIGNED, GO BACK TO STEP 20. Note that it is easier to align the crankshaft individually than the top sprockets, so if the top sprockets are in sync with each other but out of sync with the crankshaft, turn the crankshaft until the top sprockets are aligned with their timing marks, remove the belt, then temporarily put the crankshaft pulley back on and adjust it.

NOTE: It is ok to turn the crankshaft back a few degrees if you need to. You may be able to do this by hand by just pushing the crankshaft pulley on the crankshaft (without its mounting bolt) and turning the pulley by hand. However, if you need to adjust the top sprockets, you'll probably need to turn the crankshaft in clockwise direction using a socket on its center bolt. However, if you need to go an entire revolution on one of the top sprockets, you'll need to do so with the timing belt installed, so the entire engine rotates more or less in sync.

NOTE 2: After each time you rotate the timing belt via the crankshaft pulley's center mounting bolt, you'll need to remove the crankshaft pulley via the air impact wrench.

31. IF YOUR TIMING BELT IS NOW ALIGNED (all three timing marks on the sprockets are lined up with the three timing marks on the engine) , IT'S TIME TO PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER, in the reverse order of what you took it off.

NOTES: When reinstalling the top half of the engine bracket (the one that attaches between engine and frame), you may need to jack the engine a little higher in order to get this bracket snug against the bottom half of the engine bracket.

DO NOT RESTART YOUR ENGINE UNTIL YOU WORK YOUR WAY BACK PAST STEP 4. (But don't put the vehicle in drive until you work your way back past step 2.)

This recall was issued a while ago but I figured it should be posted for all to see for the foreseeable future.

Full Recall Information - If you apply for this recall and have yet to take action, I strongly suggest you do so as soon as possible.

HYUNDAI / SANTA FE 2001-2003
Manufacturer: HYUNDAI MOTOR COMPANY Mfr's Report Date: APR 14, 2009
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 09V123000

EA08023
NHTSA Action Number: EA08023

Component: SUSPENSION:REAR
Potential Number of Units Affected: 85036

Summary:
HYUNDAI IS RECALLING 85,036 MY 2001-2003 SANTA FE VEHICLES ORIGINALLY SOLD IN OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEW HAMPSHIRE, NEW JERSEY, NEW YORK, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, VERMONT, WEST VIRGINIA, WISCONSIN, AND THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. DURING WINTER MONTH, LARGE QUANTITIES OF SALT ARE USED TO DE-ICE ROADS IN THE SALT BELT STATES. ROAD SALT MAY RESULT IN INTERNAL CORROSION OF THE REAR TRAILING ARMS, WHICH COULD LEAD TO THINNING OR PERFORATION OF THE REAR TRAILING ARM STEEL. THE CORROSION IS PROGRESSIVE AND OCCURS OVER TIME. YOU MAY SEE OR FEEL SLIGHT TO MODERATE CHANGES IN VEHICLE OPERATION WHICH WILL INCREASE IF THE VEHICLE IS NOT REPAIRED. THESE CHANGES INCLUDE A LOWERING OF VEHICLE HEIGHT THAT CAN LEAD TO TIRE MISALIGNMENT AND STEERING PULL. YOU MAY ALSO NOTICE A CREAKING SOUND. IF THE CORROSION IS ALLOWED TO PROGRESS, THE REAR TRAILING ARM MAY FRACTURE WHILE DRIVING.

Consequence:
THE DEFORMATION AND LOSS OF STRUCTURAL RIGIDITY OF THE REAR TRAILING ARM MAY INCREASE THE RISK OF A VEHICLE CRASH.

Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE REAR TRAILING ARMS FOR INTERNAL CORROSION DAMAGE. IF SPECIFIED LEVELS OF CORROSION DAMAGE ARE FOUND, THE REAR TRAILING ARMS WILL BE REPLACED. REAR TRAILING ARMS THAT DO NOT REQUIRE REPLACEMENT WILL HAVE DRAINAGE HOLES ADDED AND WILL BE TREATED WITH RUST-PROOFING MATERIAL TO ARREST THE CORROSION PROCESS. INSPECTION, TREATMENT AND REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES WILL BE CONDUCTED AT NO COST TO OWNERS. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING APRIL 2009. OWNERS MAY CONTACT HYUNDAI AT CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE CENTER AT 1-800-633-5151.

Notes:
HYUNDAI RECALL NO. 090. OWNERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV .

Hello all.

Having a issue here with my electric side mirrors. Both are dead. Fuses are good. I've tested the switch, appears fine. Haven't yet tested the mirror motors yet. Both stopped working at the same time. Doubting they would both die at the same time. I don't think power is getting to the mirror switch. E/Door looks and e/windows work. Don't have a wiring diagram for the mirrors to trace. Is there another fuse or relay somewhere I'm missing? I also switched out the relays on the interior fuse panel, both appear fine.

Thanks

2004 Santa Fe
2.7
FWD

Hello,

I am new to the forum, as well as new to hyundai's product line. My mother is purchasing a 01' Sante Fe with a 2.7L V6. I was hoping some of you would be able to tell me if hyundai stamps the VIN on the engine block or heads anywhere from the factory. The engine in said Sante Fe is mangled from a broken timing belt. The previous owner drove it off the show room floor and for the next 140,000 miles he/she never changed the timing belt. Anyways, I just was hoping to be able to run a car fax on the motor I am going to put in so that I can verify the advertised miles.

thanks for the help,
Sean

Thought I would share this experience as I'm still going through it and it may help someone else track down a problem with their Santy.

I started having an issue with my 2001 2.7l v6 4wd that i thought was transmission related. Whenever I drove up an incline, I just didn't have any power and the car would start to slow. Finances caused me to have to drive it this way for a couple of months - and it just got worse. I couldn't afford what I thought would be a very expensive repair at the time. It eventually got to the point where I could be going 65mph leading up to a hill and the car would slow down to under 40mph trying to get up the hill. You could mash the pedal to the floor any time and couldn't get more power. Mind you, not once did I ever get a CE light on the dash. Not once. And no stored codes when checked. But something was obviously wrong.

I changed the trans fluid - had no leaks - and the fluid was old but I wouldn't say terrible. However, I did see gear oil all over the front transfer case. More on that later. But I was certain it was something to do with that or the transmission. But I also knew something must be going on with the engine because it didn't feel like the tranny was slipping - it just wasn't getting any power.

I finally got it into a shop last week. They immediately noticed the back bank of cylinders were completely out of time. Upon further inspection, the timing belt - which had been replaced a year ago - had slipped 2 teeth. Upon further inspection of that, he found the tensioner was soft and needed to be replaced. He did all that, got the engine back together, and drove it. No improvement.

So he put his scan tool on it and drove it and thought he was getting strange readings from the O2 sensors on the exhaust - nothing that would throw a code - just 'strange' he said. So he basically cut off the exhaust before the converters to allow free air flow. Took it out for a drive - it ran perfectly. Power and acceleration restored. Upon further inspection, he said the exhaust system was completely clogged and both converters needed replaced. $1100 for a new system from front to back - but he's checking to see if he can just replace the 2 converters for less. I'm also checking local scrap yards seeing as I don't have $1100 to spend on this 8 year old car that has 165k miles - but still a lot of life left.

He says the clogged exhaust was creating so much back pressure on the engine, it threw the belt and the engine out of time. He doesn't know if I had a tensioner that was failing already or if the increased pressure somehow caused it to fail. Otherwise, he said the belt was in good shape. He has yet to check the plugs though.

In hindsight, 2 years ago when I changed the plugs, one of them (cyl 5 I think) was pretty bad and burnt. Looked like some blow-by on it. I changed those after I did get a CE light and that cylinder was indicated as a problem. The car went into limp mode and changing the plugs fixed it all. When the timing belt was replaced last year, he again changed the plugs and found similar conditions on the same plug. I'm guessing the exhaust system had been failing for awhile and building up the back pressure which was escaping through the weakest point available - which was apparently that cylinder. (But I'm not a mechanic - so I may be completely wrong.)

So, as it stands, I'm looking to replace the converters without dropping a mortgage payment. He's yet to look at the front differential to see if there's a leak or something else going on there. I changed the fluid in it myself with some assistance. However, I'm not sure if the pressure in that system can be linked to what was going on with the exhaust or not. Again - not a mechanic - so maybe someone knowledgeable could explain whether they are or can even be linked?

But I thought I would share my experience for anyone who might run into a similar drop in power which with no warning lights or codes that feels like it might be a transmission problem. It could be your exhaust system.

My 2002 Santa Fe has 100,250 miles. It has recently started making a vibrating, squealing noise. This occurs only when it is in forward drive and only when it is going at least 20 mph. The timing belt has been replaced, the drive belt has not.
Could this be the drive belt? Am I risking serious damage if I keep driving it without having this attended to?

The jeep in question is my '04' turbo diesel automatic santa fe...
It doent happen all the time but i could be cruising along and then all of a sudden the revs die as if ive taken my foot off the throttle. It doesnt make a difference if you press any harder but if you come off the throttle and then back on its fine?? Any one had this problem?

Also i have a leak but looks like two coming from my transmission? looks like its leaking from the back of the transmission and is either leakin to the front and dripping off there or i have a leak coming from the pan aswell! is this a simple fix of will the tranny have to come out? could this also be connected to my throttle problem?

I'm just curious, i just ordered one and wanna see how different people ran them..

Hi everybody. I'm new to the Hyundai forum but that's because it's my first Hyundai. I'm posting this because it may help others in the future. This will be a continuing saga, I'm sure.

Today I bought a 04 Santa Fe that was submerged up to the cupholders for @15 minutes in fresh water during a flash flood. It was not running. It is a v6 with @ 70K on it. The flooding happened this summer and the car sat and got the interior moldy. Oil and xmsn dipsticks look good. I paid $400 for it and it does NOT have a salvage title.

Day1. Battery dead. Put some air in the tires and had it towed home. Good rubber. Got home and couldn't get the key out of the ignition. The car probably doesn't know it's in park. Put the battery (new 2/09) on the trickle charger and will see what happens tomorrow. Maybe some sort of lockout solenoid. I ordered the shop manual today. Tomorrow I will power it up and if time permits, drain the gas tank, put some gas in it and crank it. I'll post again with results and maybe some pics.

My sunroof weatherstrip has perished a little and looks like it will need to be replaced.

Anyone done this before or know how how to do it?

Do you need to remove the sunroof panel to do it or can it be done in situ?

Cheers

Marty

Does anyone know if it's possible to view all parts and part numbers for the Santa Fe on the HMA Service site or if there is another site that does this?

Hi,
I have a Santa Fe 2003 2.7l V6 purchased in Australia.

From what I have read it seems that this model may not have an air cabin filter installed at least in the US, does anyone know if this also applies to Australian models? I understand you can install one if there was not one put in originally, my question is it worthwhile installing one of these? It seems pretty straightforward and I currently live in a very dusty place.

Thanks heaps

Hi there. New to the forum. Own a 2003 Santa Fe since new - relatively low mileage (48K). Recently noticed a heavier accelerator (not much pick-up) and an appreciable change to the noises the engine makes (whiny, high pitch, sounds more like a diesel). Think it might have something to do with the transmission since it seems to run at higher RPMs before automatically shifting gears.

I'm not much of a car person and have been taken for a ride by mechanics at repair shops and dealer service departments due to my ignorance. I am looking for some guidance on how to proceed before I take the car to get checked out.

Thanks in advance for the help!

My wifes lights dont work on the temp control knobs, I took the ash tray out, and the little dash cluster. Dont look like theres a bulb, there is one in the center and it works. Please help, thanks Rick

the right side seems real bright like which I like but the left don't seem as bright it close but I can tell a slight difference.. the back up and signal lights are equal in brightness both side.. I have changed bulbs with brand new ones both side and still nothing and is the same.. I even checked the little reflector inside the tail light and it seems fine and and is centered like it suppose to be so it can reflect the light for the whole area of the red brake light...so where do I turn to next?? I have electronic rust control on my santa fe aswell since day one in 2006. so I would assume its not the grounds?

Hello this is my 1st post on this forum. Not sure how this works so any help provided would be great. I own a 2003 Hyundai GLS V6 3.5L Sante Fe. I love the car and my wife is making me sell it for a bigger vehicle. I have two current issues that I'm trying to solve:

1. My engine light comes on for a day or two every time I put gas in. I went to Autozone and they ran their diagnostic test. I have misplaced the code # but they said it most likely was my gas cap seal. So I bought a new gas cap and still the same issue. What other options do I have?

2. My dashboard clock comes on when I start the car but then will just turf off on it's own while driving and come back on 15 or 20 minutes later for no rhyme or reason. I have to constantly reset the clock. The electronic date and year display above my head is fine though. I checked all the fuses and they are good (except the ones that my little tester couldn't get too) but I know the clock fuses are fine as they were accessible. Not sure where to go with this?

Potential car buyers may shy away due to the engine light and the funky clock deal is also a turn off. I don't want to pay outrageous dealer prices to get these things fixed by them. Please can anybody help me? IT WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED!

Thanks in advance!

Please somebody knows how to install an rear hatch deflector ?
I Have a Santa Fe 2002 ..... deflector purchased from dealer !!!!
Please .....video ..photos anything !!!!

I am stumped. I recently changed Coolant temp sensor on my 01 Santa fe, as well as the thermostat. When I drive it now, it goes from cold, past normal op temp, and straight to hot. I noticed that the radiator fans are not coming on at all though. I checked all the fuses i could find, tested the relay, and jumpered the fans to the battery to make certain that they still were good, and all worked fine. I am at a loss. do all of the cooling for the engine? Any advice is greatly appreciated!

I am looking into buying an in dash gps/dvd/tv 2 din unit for my 2005 santa fe and was wondering if anyone out there had any comments on which brands of units were the most reliable. There are many units out there at varying prices and I don`t want to drop 600 bucks on something I may regret . So if you have bought one and are happy or unhappy please share your thoughts. Thanks.

Hi,

I'm installing a double DIN head unit in my 2004 Santa Fe. It's a base model. I took out the old unit and noticed this silver metal bar. This plate takes up too much room and I can't install the new unit. Should I remove it? How would I do that?


Thanks
Supasing

Well, I was hoping to wait until the end of April to get the new wheels, but its looking like that date will come sooner rather than later. My 02 Santa Fe needs a lot of work, as I found out today. Check engine light came on, and the dealer says it needs O2 sensors, air intake, etc. That stuff will be an $1800 job and it needs brakes and bearings on top of that.

So, it's time to part with the truck.. as much as I like it and have looked after it! On the positive side, I can't wait to get my new 2010 Santa Fe!!

my speedometer broke. it flickered at first for about a month but now doesn't move a bit. i'm currently using my gps to monitor my speed, but i would like to get it fixed so i can use my cruise control. my mechanic had a look and tested the speed sensor but that's still working. any ideas of what might be wrong? and how much i'm looking at to get it fixed?

also, my headlights are burning out quickly? about every 2-3 mos since i tried lumincs "xenon" bright type lights. the lumincs bulbs burnt out my fuses and i was wondering if it's done something to my wiring?
thanks for the help!

Heyy Hi Everyone,

I have several questions,

I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe GLX V6 3.5,

1.- My Santa Fe, this lighting indicators ABS, TCS, System Break, and 4WD, it does so intermittently. When I feel that the vehicle stopped me as a force that wants to advance, a mechanic examine the vehicle and informs me that the 4WD is being activated by mistake, this is possible, can you tell me the cause and solution?

2 .- In relation to the hydraulic, the guide when I turn right I feel heavy, plus I have a sound, click sound, just at the right side, I have been considering, I say he has no problem on shock absorbers, Train front spherical ball at the workshop told me that a leak from the hydraulic pump on the right, someone can give me more information about this case?

3.-I have not changed the transmission oil on a diagnosis, the mechanic informed me that the oil is very dark and recommends changes, another thing is that the retainer was pouring a little oil, this is critical, the mechanic I says no, then I have a concern when parking change to "D" and the vehicle is cold or have an outstanding feel a sharp sound, this is normal?

Thanks and sorry for all these questions

I am trying to finish up a motor swap on a 03 hyundai santa fe 2.7L.

The motor i took out had an oil pan that was diagonal so the exhaust pipe could fit up snug against the block.

The new motor i put in is out of a 01 or 02 manual santa fe. The oil pan is different and the exhaust is interfering with it and i can bolt it up the the manifold flanges.

Can i use a different exhuast pipe or order an 03 oil pan to fit the old motor?

should ac light come on when control is in the defrost position? it comes on automatically without pushing the button. also my compressor does not cycle, if a push the button to turn it on the compressor stays engaged. i dont think this is correct but am not for sure. it is an 01 santa fe v6

Hiiii

When i drive in 2 Gear if I want to suddenly hit the acceleration till the end of it the car start to shake forward and backward why ?

Do i have to change the sparks

thank you

Hi, This is my first post...nice site by the way..anyways, im working on a 2002 sante fe..i have the alternator almost ready for removal...however, the bottom alternator bolt will not come all the way out...there is a bracket on the back side going into the block..this is stopping the bolt from sliding out...ive tried piviting the alternator. Now nothing seems to work... please help..I have to have the car done TODAY!!!


ps the bracket is supporting the half shaft..if this helps

Here's my story:
Wife's 2002 Santa Fe, well maintained, started leaking tranny fluid. A little at first, then leaked badly, so I took it to Midas. They said the tranny cooler line was leaking, but good news, there is a recall on this item, go up the street to the dealer, and they should cover it.
Went to the stealer, and they said sorry, no can do. It seems that in 2007 another dealer INSPECTED it and found no corrosion, so it's not covered. I talked to corporate customer service, to no avasil, they would not budge. $300+
Stealer also recommended transmission 'service' (flush), which I agreed to because it had not been done before on this vehicle. $200 more.

2 weeks later, the tranny starts acting up, like it's low on fluid. Yep, leaking again. Took it into the stealer, they said, they can't find the leak. So they cleaned it up and put dye in the tranny fluid and said drive it a couple of days and come back.
So I drop the Santa Fe off this morning, they said well we think it MAY be the main seal leaking. $850 in labor + 30 parts on a hunch? I'm po'd beyond belief. Any sane recommendations? I'm going to pull the vehicle and take it to Midas.

Our 2004 Santa Fe has worked without issue for the past 5 years. This morning, it did not start when we turned the key. There was a brief sound like the engine wanted to turnover but it just wouldn't "catch". We tried a few times but nothing seemed to happen. I confirmed that the battery was not dead and everything else seemed fine. Then, after waiting a few minutes we tried again and it worked. I recall that when we bought the vehicle (new) and were getting ready to drive it off the lot, it did the same thing. I turned the key, it didn't catch, and I thought something was wrong. The sales guy reached in, turned it, and it was fine. Never had an issue since until today, but it took more than a few tries before it finally responded and worked normally.

Does anyone know what might cause this? Thanks.

DEFECTIVE - ENGINE DAMAGE
I wish to bring to your attention irreparable damage brought to the engine of our Hyundai Santa Fe, raising a serious safety issue.
We purchased a Hyundai Santa Fe in January 2009. On 6th October 2009 not half a mile from home, the car engine failed causing the total loss of Power / the power steering and the brakes. I mounted a verge and narrowly avoided hitting the front of a cottage.
The first sign that something was wrong was the sudden smell of burning rubber, the car was travelling a 60 mph so before I was able to bring the car to a stop for inspection it seized. The car was then towed from the road side to the nearest garage.

The garage inspected my car and reported the following results; the rubber mount which carries the crank shaft pulley had delaminated from the pulley itself. This pulley became detached as a result of this, impacting with the engine casing and causing the engine to seize. There are now holes in the pistons, fragments of pistons displaced around the engine block resulting in £5500 worth of damage to our car if repaired at our local Hyundai dealership. Our car has a full Hyundai service history and has only reached sixty thousand miles, this all happened because a non serviceable part costing £150 failed.

We contacted our nearest Hyundai dealership 40 miles away in Norwich (Constitution) giving them full details of our situation and they told us that we had to contact Hyundai Technical & Warranty Department. I tried to speck to someone there but was advised only a Hyundai dealership could make direct contact with them.
When I informed Constitution Hyundai that I was unable to contact Hyundai Technical & Warranty Department they told me it was crazy that a customer could not seek help from them and they contact them on my behalf
However the response I got back from Sue Coats of Constitution Hyundai was that they had wanted no part to play in assisting me with the repair of my car, nor did they want to carry out the work.

I asked to speak to someone else at Constitution Hyundai who may be able to help and I was called back by Chris Jay who is one of the company’s directors. After numerous phone calls he did apologise for the way I had been treated and told me they would fix my car but at a cost of £5500, the only problem with his offer is that the car was valued at approximately £4000.

The Hyundai service manual states the following paragraph: Hyundai actively encourage owners to contact an authorised dealer in the event of a vehicle developing a defect not related to routine maintenance servicing requirements which constitutes a risk to the continued safety of the vehicle operator, irrespective of age or mileage of the vehicle.
Hyundai have never ask to see the failed part or inspect my Santa Fe, we never received a reply from Hyundai, the only correspondence I received was a phone call after I contacted them yet again because it had been three weeks since the engine blow up. I was told Hyundai had a holistic approach to servicing their cars and would not offer any assistance in repairing our Santa Fe.

Our car has now been fitted with a reconditioned engine at great cost to us (£3200) we never received a written response from Hyundai UK regarding the safety and repair of our vehicle. I feel that we should bring this to the buying public’s attention in light of the present climate of other motor manufactures taking responsibility for their cars whilst Hyundai ignore the fact that there Santa Fe needs a recall to address this potentially fatal problem.
Will they only credit me with a swift response when somebody is seriously injured or killed because they care more about gross margins then they do about the gross misconduct of their company given that there has been no remiss or neglect on our part.

If anyone can offer any advice on what has happened to me and my car I would be most appreciative.
To date, despite numerous e-mails, letters and phone calls to Hyundai UK, there has been no response from them regarding this very expensive and dangerous failure.

2004 Santa Fe 2.7L

When the headlights are on the left turn signal stays on(but does not blink). The right turn signal functions ok. With the headlights off both signals function normally. The headlights work correctly.

This issue happened once a year ago but just started reoccurring two days ago.

hello, i am having an engine problem, engine idles smooth, put in gear and take off the engine stalls then picks up, it is up and down, as if one was pushing the pedal and letting off, have replaced the tps, water pump and timing belt, not getting any check engine light, can put the car in drive and hold the brake, press the gas and it runs fine, any suggestions, this is a 2001 santa fe with 2.7 l engine and 115,000 miles

Hey,
I just bought a 2001 Santa Fe. I really like the car, my only complaint is that is seems to be a rather noisy car. I'm getting a lot of road noise while I drive. I know sometimes this can be attributed to the tires, and while these tires are decent enough tires, they don't have a real agressive, loud tread.
I know it still could be the tires, though, so I thought I'd ask for some feedback - does your Santa Fe give you a lot of road noise?
Thanks in advance!
J

Hello


How can i change my automatic transmission filter in my 2004 santa fe 2.4l and when, my car is doing 92333 miles on it and it looks almost black should i change but they said in the car manual i only change it when it reach to 105000 miles i want to take care of my transmission.



please help


Note: i live in region where is the temperature reach 40 C at the summer, i have import the car from U.S.A


thank you

Hi there,

Had my santa fe for three years, love it to bits but in the last few days it has developed a rumble , vibration that feels underneath my seat. Any ideas, i am thinking maybe the centre bearing on the prop shaft , it only does it up to about 20 mph in first and second gear. Any tips guys greatly received.

I would like to get detailed instructions on replacing the fuel filter on an 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6. I have tried hmaservice.com but couldn't find any information specific to my model on this issue.

Thanks.

My 2002 Hyandai Sante Fee will not start up everytime I put gas in it. The mechanics cannot find the problem. I had to change my starter two times in 6 months because I keep flooding the starter to start it up. Does anyone know what this might be?

i have a 2003 santa fe 2.4,the shop put a timing belt and crank sensor on it.his scanner shows -77 timing,it idles but no power,timing marks are correct,help !!!!!!!!!

I have an '03 SF with the smaller of the 2 V-6s. When you start it while it's cold, we get a squeak for about 10 minutes. It sounds similar to a bird. And it does NOT change at all if you rev the engine. The frequency of the squeak and the tone don't change at all with the engine speed. As it warms up, the squeak frequency slows down until it finally stops. It seems to be coming from the serpentine belt side of the engine. I can't get the car into Hyundai this week. Hoping this is something someone else has had so I have a clue before I take it in.

Thanks in advance,
Steve

I have a 2005 Santa fe and I can not get the cd to come out of the stereo. I press eject and nothing happens. I can still listen to the radio and the CD IN icon is lit up so it knows there is CD in there. I've pulled the fuse, waited a minute and reinsert the fuse but this has not helped. Anyone know if there is a manual eject button or some other way to get it out.

Thanks

I bought a pre-owned 2002 Santa Fe Crdi (TD in UK, I think) with 20,000km on the clock. Went superbly until 50,000km when I was advised it needed ahead overhaul as it was losing compression. This was done locally (in Nicaragua) and the vehicle seemed to be OK for about another 20,000KM. I am informed ( from more than one source) that this model was a "lemon" in that the engine (D4EA) had many factory faults. I am asking if anybody is aware that Hyundai have recognised this and issued "upgrade" parts (such as pistons, rings etc). Once again, (after 80,000km) I am advised that lack of compression is causing poor starting. I am now faced with deciding whether to junk this vehicle or spend another US$1500 on buying pistons, rings etc. If Hyundai are still selling the same spec parts, then I expect the same problems in another 20,000km. These problems are manifested in increasingly poor starting, whether hot or cold, to the extent that it will ultimately refuse to start altogether. I have renewed the glow plugs twice, by the way. These take some 14 secs to heat up, for some unknown reason, although the dashboard indicator just flashes quickly. This vehicle cost me US$15,000 and I have paid US$10,000 in repairs to date. Any (informed) help would be most welcome.

My santa fe over the past two weeks has gotten worse. And it finally fully gave out saturday. At first it seemed as if it wasnt getting enough power in high rpms (above 4g's) so i thought it was the the fuel pump or the fuel pressure regulator. Finally i attempted to take the car on the highway cause it wasnt acting bad. Halfway on the high it wouldnt go above 45 in 4th gear. i popped the hood and the exhaust manifold was glowing red. So i had it towed to the automotive shop i go to school at. I tested the entire fuel system it was giving out proper pressure ratings. So then i did a simple compression test it turned out 200 on all cylinders. So i then cranekd it up let it idle for a little checked the codes and got the code P0113 IAT sensor circuit high. So we narrowed it down to 2 things. The maf sensor or the failed cat. We are going to take off the cat and see if that helps any. Were almost positive its the cat cause the exhaust fumes smell like sulfur. Just thought i would post a topic just incase any one else was having the same problems. If you have any questions post and i will attempt to answer any questions. The bright side is its a great excuse to go straight pipe and cut the cat off=)

I have a few questions regarding Hyundai's 8-Year/80,000 Mile Emissions Warranty, as found here.

I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, which I purchased in May 2002. There are 84,000 miles on my vehicle. Would this warranty still apply? In other words, does the warranty cover the greater of 8 years or 80,000 miles, or the lesser?

My vehicle has been kind of sluggish on the road. When it is idle, the exhaust seems kind of dark/cloudy (not black or smokey, but definitely darker than what I'm used to seeing) and, on a couple of occasions, I've noticed a rotten egg smell when "pushing" the gas (e.g. going up a hill or going from a city street on to a highway).

Much of what I've found on the Internet seems to suggest that I might be having problems with the catalytic converter or related devices. If this is the case, will it be covered by the warranty listed above? I'm wary, because the language of the warranty suggests that—in order to be covered—the vehicle would have to fail certain EPA-approved inspection programs.

I really can't afford to take my car in to Hyundai, only to be told that I'll have to pay a thousand dollars for repairs, and the folks at my local dealership always seem extremely resistant to making repairs under warranty (the last time I took my vehicle in, they kept telling me that it wasn't covered under warranty... it took a call to Hyundai USA [who backed me up 100%] to get them to honor the warranty). So what is the best method for pushing them to see if the repairs would be covered under warranty?

Thank you!

Hi
Notice a leak at the bottom of the Line coming out of the reservoir and turning under at the bottom of the radiator... Not sure at this point whether this is the suction return or supply , probably return, from the looks of the spring clamps used.
It appears that some steel line is used to make a 2 ft or so loop under the radiator before it goes back to the rack.... Cooling??
This line app. 3/8 " in diamater is supported by some rubber isolators, and no doubt there is some rust which has formed in there where the line passes through the rubber, small pinhole maybe??
Anyone have any experience, working in this area... ?
Comments...
I'll probably get at this in the near future at this point it's a small leak....
WHacker

what does the 2006 santa fe's use.. electronic or belt driven power steering?

Hi

My sanat fe 2.4l 2004 automatic i need to change my battery i import the car from U.S.A and i think the car battery is 68AH and in my country i found 70 or 60 some of the people i know they advise me to use the 60 AH one i dont know what i will do


Any help


thank you

Hi. I have a 2003 Santa Fe 4 cylinder model (I think LS, but I'm not sure). I'm hearign squealing from the front right wheel. However, the squealing only happens under certain conditions:

1: It's wet

2: Turning right

3: It's cold (i.e. temperature is below freezing)

Any ideas? All 3 belts have been replaced within the last year. Thanks.

Rob Trefz

I have a 2001 v6 Santa fe. Cold air leaks into the front passenger side foot area when driving. Seems to be coming in the right portion of the area.

We can turn the heater on floor, so hot air blows, but the cold air is still there. Hot on left from the heater and cold on right. If we change the heater off of floor the cold still comes in. So it doesn't seem to be the heater system. Any ideas?

Hi all,
O.K I'm new and frankly came here as I'm in desperate need of advice. I own a beautiful Santa Fe, 05 reg that I love loads! It's never let me down, ( except one little odd time) and I travel from Liverpool to Scotland about 6 times a year, mostly to obscure Scottish islands. So as a single female traveler, trusty Santa Fe has been a gem. However, I decided to spoil car at Christmas (and myself) and buy a top range Sony cd/usb/i-pod/bluetooth stereo from Halfords. I had to leave Santa Fe with Halfords man while he was fitting said stereo, when I got back car would not start. After Halfords checked EVERY fuse, they advised me to ring RAC. After RAC man checked all the fuses again and then everything else... no luck... the lights where on, it was clicking over, but the engine would not fire in. The RAC man said it looked like the immobiliser had locked the car, actually the little amber light with the 'car and key' was NOT coming on when I turned the key,(as it always did).. eventually it was towed away. RAC man said unless that car & key light came on, the car was not moving.
Unfortunately my local Hyundai dealer has been a little bit odd with the repair. They ring me to say that my car arrived and they 'pushed' it in and locked it up for the night. Then I ring and they said they are checking it. Then, a day later I rang and they say it works perfectly, it has worked fine 'as soon as we got it from the recovery van' and what’s my problem... the cars got no problems at all!?!?

My 5 year warranty runs out in 40 days and I'm worried that they are trying to pretend all is fine in the hope that they don't actually find a real problem. I've insisted on seeing the service mechanic this week, but frankly don't know what to say! I worry as the car did this to me about 8 months ago...that little odd time... I turned the key and it turned over but refused to start.... it took 4 attempts to get it going and I took it to Hyundai (and they said it was fine.)
Feeling very confused and frustrated and don't know what to say to Hyundai man on Tuesday.
Anyone any ideas??????
Miss S.A O'Brien