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itza |
476 |
18th July 2009 - 01:42 AM Last post by: prav |
For the past few weeks I have been trialling a tuning box manufactured by a German company ASA Autotechnik Saretz and I have compiled the attached report giving details of my findings. Should you want more info from me contact via a personal email and I will try to answer those questions posed.
A really special price to forum members has been negotiated with ASA Autotechnik Saretz who can offer a Tuning box, plus appropriate connecting cable complete and delivered to your door for an all-inclusive Special price of € 99 plus shipping costs of €10 to the UK. (A total of €109)
Members in other Countries should check shipping costs prior to purchasing but I have been advised that they will be as reasonable as is possible)
Please Note: -
This is a considerable saving on the regular ASA Autotechnik Saretz Internet price of €148 plus postage.
This is the best available offer on the Internet. Contact them by Email to order at
shop@autotechnik-saretz.de ENGLISH is spoken and understood.
When ordering please quote reference Itza/ASA ECO CR/Special Offer
If you have another vehicle that has any other type of diesel engine, ASA Autotechnik Saretz possibly manufacture a tuning device for that as well so contact them to see what they can offer you.
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don_gizmos |
11 |
Yesterday, 03:42 PM Last post by: don_gizmos |
hy there please help mi hyundai sonata 2004 as a fuse probleme the one for the dome light and the for the eting systeme keeps blowing averitime i change theme , i cald the hyundai dealer and he thincks its mi cd player but its bin in for about 6 months
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krzdimond |
57 |
5th November 2009 - 07:57 PM Last post by: jsinton |
My daughter drops off this car....... 03 Sonata with the 4 banger to be exact, and it keeps cutting off when it hits 3rd gear. I take it for a test drive, and sure enough 3rd gear kills the engine. Drive in manual mode and all is fine.... for a while. Hooked up the scanner and it tells me the MAF has a high voltage condition. Cleaned the MAF and drive again. Same thing. This time it pulled a crank and cam sensor. Cleared the codes and drove some more, only to have just the cam sensor pull a code. Replaced the cam sensor and no change. Now it pulls the MAF again, I unplugged the MAF and now it shows MAF low volt (duh, it's unplugged) and IAT, Cam, Crank sensors
I know that with search, it is usually the crank sensor, but this thing has me stumped. How can a bad crank sensor cause all these unrelated codes? I need a definitive answer soon as it might go to the shop first thing Monday as I just don't feel like messing with disassembling the front half of the engine
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vishal soni |
39 |
5th November 2009 - 03:08 PM Last post by: davelc32 |
Hello Friends,
I purchased 2003 hyundai sonata lx v6 recently, but I started getting some problems with my car.
1. Airbag light always stays on. It went off for couple of days, but again came on. I've checked for wires below driver seat and all are hooked up properly. Dont know what else to check.
2. When turning left or right I hear some squeaking noise from rear. Unable to locate exact location, but for sure it comes from rear and only while turning.
Appreciate your help in this regard.
Thanks,
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Ishmael |
19 |
4th November 2009 - 07:42 PM Last post by: Ishmael |
Oh boy! I'm having another problem with my car. At idle, the oil pressure light comes on. However, when I accelerate, it turns off.
I changed the oil and filter, just in case. The oil level is correct. The oil pressure sensor doesn't leak oil. There are no strange noises coming from the engine.
Could the oil pump be bad? The car has almost 65,000 miles.
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reah_emerald |
128 |
3rd November 2009 - 11:00 PM Last post by: importvic |
I have an 02 Sonata with 115k miles that I have recently replaced the timing belt, timing assembly, "serpentine" belt (the two belts that run the altenator and power steering pumps), spark plugs, fuel pump and cv joints. I now have a rough idle and when accelerating from a stop the car has a slight rumble and does not want to accelerate until I hit 30 mph, after that it accelerates fine. If I manually shift the car from take off I do not have the hesitation issue it accelerates fine. I also have no power going up hill ( only make about 20-25 mph), this is only when going up hill from a stop or under 20 mph. Any help would be greatful
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cuban |
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3rd November 2009 - 08:49 PM Last post by: cuban |
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kit352 |
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3rd November 2009 - 07:25 PM Last post by: fbod383 |
long story short my car died and when i got it all apart i found the crank sensor was ruined and the balance belt was just a belt, no teeth. timing belt was fine and new though. does a broken balance have the same effects as a broken timing belt or is it just a matter of getting a new one and thats all. im not replacing my motor for the 3rd time.
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fbod383 |
107 |
3rd November 2009 - 07:21 PM Last post by: cuban |
I just bought a 2001 Sonata with a 2.4, it has a pretty annoying tick coming from the top of the motor.. Are the lifters serviceable, or do you just replce them?
thanks
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kbh |
35 |
3rd November 2009 - 10:09 AM Last post by: kbh |
I replaced my timing belt on my 2005 Sonata, 2.7 V8, and seem to have an extra bolt that I can't figure out where it came from. I did not replace my water pump (will wait til 120K).
Any ideas where it goes? It's about 3/8 diameter and 1.25 inchs long with a "7" on the head (see attachment). Somehow it ended up in the jar with my motor mount bolts.
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whit |
39 |
2nd November 2009 - 03:27 PM Last post by: whit |
My headlights were way too high so I adjusted them down, now my high beams are too low. I have had my elantra for about 2 months and low beams were burned out. I replaced them, but I assume they were too high before I replaced them. I can't see how I could have put them in wrong. Is there a way to adjust the high and low beams seperately?
Thanks
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jiggaflex |
50 |
2nd November 2009 - 09:54 AM Last post by: Dr. Cole |
hello all
my 2000 sonata is doing some weird stuff lately
all is fine at first but after driving a few mins the turn signals will stop working
is this an electrical problem? or am i looking at something alot worse?
thanks
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Otto X |
28 |
2nd November 2009 - 07:30 AM Last post by: hit1 |
The power steering on my sonata is giving me fits.
A) I lose power when pulling into a parking spot, etc.

The power steering pump is making a loud tapping noise
c) There is a "whining noise" whenever the steering wheel is hot pointed straight.
The car is a 2002 4 cylinder, manual transmission.
What I have done:
Replaced pump (4 times) each one makes tapping noise
Replaced high pressure switch
Replaced high pressure hose
Replaced steering rack
Replaced low pressure (return) hose
Bled system by turning wheel lock to lock with car on lift, first with engine off, then with car on.
New Power steering fluid
New belt
Any body ever have any experience with this? Have any ideas?
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medicswife2002 |
79 |
31st October 2009 - 02:19 PM Last post by: medicswife2002 |
Hello and thank you for having this forum board! I did a search first and didn't see this particular question and could use some serious advice please. Okay, I have a 2000 Hyundai Sonata and long story short....it fell apart. (lol). Anyways, I started noticing that I had a fuel tank leak about a year ago. Due to replacement cost I've just been keeping only a quarter tank at a time in it (now THATS a hassle however livable) since it will only leak if more than that is put in there.
Then I got the shock of my life when my right front whole stupid wheel just crumbled inward last month while driving! The hubcap went rolling off the road and there I was (thank God it was just me AND I live in a very small town so wasn't in danger of getting smashed by a semi or anything like that!) stuck in an intersection.
Okay, so I have AAA and got it towed to my 'regular' guy (muffler brothers mechanic, been an upstanding guy to me for years) who informed me the whole subcore was rusted through and quoted me a price that floored me so of course I decided not to fix it at all. I know now that had I been taking my car to a Hyundai certified shop then I'd been informed of this recall. So I got it towed back home (now my second tow related to this incident) then I listed it on Craigslist for 500.00 explaining the issues and thank God for honest people because a man phoned me and informed me of the recall.
I got the official number to call, called it and after giving the VIN number was told where to take it for a free repair. I did ask right on the spot if I could get it towed to Jeff Wylers but she declined me. So, I made the appointment at the right place and then got my third tow. They did do the repairs on the subframe and thank God now it drives once again.
Okay, my real questions (sorry for the length of my story) is this: could the rust have caused the leaking gas tank, should they have paid for that tow (and can I do anything about it now?) and shouldn't they replace my hubcap that got destroyed from the right front tire? In a perfect world I'd love to get it back there and have Hyundai to fix my fuel tank, put a new hubcap on that tire (that cost shouldn't be more than 30 dollars) and I'd like a refund for that third tow (AAA couldn't do the third one since I'd done too many). Oh! And I never got a replacement car during the more than one week they had my car either.
So thats it. Can someone please advise me on any of these issues and what I could or should do about any of it? I'll check back here later and will hope and pray for some answers. TIA for any help you can offer me! Lisa
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pjm123a |
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31st October 2009 - 09:30 AM Last post by: pjm123a |
Hi
Have a 2002 Sonata - V6 GLS - Love the car - has about 114k of mostly trouble free driving.
I'm hoping to get 200k out of it :-)
Lately though, I've been battling my check engine light. It complains about he same thing:
P0037 HO2s Bank 1 Sens 2 Heater circuit low.
I have replaced the oxygen sensor with one from Bosch. This was
a direct plug-in replacement. When I did that the check engine light went out on it's own.
I did not have to erase it. After a couple of weeks it has come back on. The code is the same.
I've also replaced a fuse in the box under the hood.
Any ideas of what to do next.
I've seen a few other posts on this forum where some other folks have had this problem.
What was done to finally resolve it?
Thanks
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FFCloud |
92 |
30th October 2009 - 02:28 PM Last post by: adams006 |
I have an 02 sonata, and i am having difficulty with my windshield washer. It doesn't spray anymore, and after reading up on it, I diagnosed it and found that there is no noise when i press the button. Its full with fluid, and the wipers work just fine. I figure its the motor that's messed up, but my real question is, does the motor for the windshield washer have a fuse? and if so where can i find it. I figure i should check that out first before attempting to replace the motor. Thank you.
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krguy33 |
27 |
29th October 2009 - 06:49 PM Last post by: krguy33 |
Hey Guys,
A guy in my area is parting out his 01 V6. I'm going pick up a windshield wiper motor, tires, and a valve cover. Anything else I should pick up while I'm there that is likely to need replaced at or near 140K.
Thanks
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hansonian |
208 |
28th October 2009 - 09:07 AM Last post by: 25psitalon |
I just replaced the timing belt on my wife's '05 Sonata. I printed out everything I could find on here, HMA Service and even got a subscription to Mitchell's e-auto repair so I would be prepared for this. I've a pretty good mechanic so I didn't think it would be a problem to swap this out. I took my time and did everything in order and now when I goto fire it up the engine just turns and acts like it wants to start but it doesn't. It seems like it's not getting any spark. I don't have anyone who can help me trouble shoot this so any help I can get from you guys would be greatly appreciated. Lucky for me the wife doesn't get back to town until Monday so I have a couple days to sort this out but I have no idea where to start.
The car is a 2.4L and I replaced the main timing belt, the small timing belt, water pump, and 2 of the 3 tensioner pulleys. I didn't do the third pulley because it seemed like a PITA to get to and none of them really needed it.
Any ideas???
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buschkj24 |
59 |
28th October 2009 - 08:44 AM Last post by: tech1 |
hello all! i just bought a 2004 sonata and was wondering if the adjustment screws for the headlights effect both the low beams and high beam. also, the adjustment screw right by the low beam adjusts the light up and down, clockwise up and counter clockwise down (right?), and the adjustment screw on top of the high beam adjusts the low beam left to right correct, or is this screw for the high beams up and down?
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99son |
174 |
27th October 2009 - 01:48 PM Last post by: 99son |
it seems as though this is common, but there are no fault codes being thrown. the car which is a 2.4L 99 sonata has been cutting off when driving, but it will start again within milliseconds on its own if the car is going fast enough.
is this the crankshaft position sensor or something else?
where can I find some directions to change it if it is indeed the problem?
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colm0806 |
69 |
26th October 2009 - 07:12 PM Last post by: colm0806 |
Hi, i have a 1999 Sonata GLS 16v, 2.0 petrol, i am unable to change my AMB temp display from F>C, i have digital climate control in the car but the temp is adjusted via a knob on the climate unit, left for cold and right for hot, is there anyone out there who may know how i can change the setting.
Attached is a photo of the climate control unit.
any and many thanks,

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mason704 |
31 |
26th October 2009 - 05:53 PM Last post by: mason704 |
ive been researching now about all these stories of the senatas cutting off and so on and so on,
and heres mine, the car just cut off going down the high way so after figuring the gas hand might have been stuck and we ran out of gas we put more gas in and that wasnt it, so we called a tow truck, when the guy got there he said it was the fuel pump because he spayed the either and it started right up but would bogg out when u step on the gas, soo we put the new fuel pump on .... nothing no start .. so now we have replaced the crankshaft sensor with a aftermarket sensor, still no start ....so now i started checking through the whole car............when we turn the key on to listen for the fuel pump it doesnt sound like its even getting power.... soo now im bout 2 steps from putting this dam car on a trailor and taking it back to hyundai and tell them to stick it somewhere,
all fuses are good and car will not even crank up now when you spray the either, and does anybody know if it could be the ecu the main brain of the car since the fuel pump is not getting power???
can anybody help on this issue
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99son |
122 |
26th October 2009 - 01:34 PM Last post by: tech1 |
I changed the timing belt on my 99 sonata today and after starting it, it is vibrating. other than that the car runs fine. what could the problem be?
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joe789 |
116 |
26th October 2009 - 12:38 PM Last post by: Mech63B |
Just bought used.
AC automatically goes on when windshield or mixed vent is selected.
AC switch does not work to turn it off. Switch works to turn on/off for other vents.
Any idea how to turn the AC off on windshield vents?
Thank,
Joe
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crmzendrgone |
78 |
25th October 2009 - 06:37 PM Last post by: tech1 |
I have a 99 sonata with a 4 cylinder giving me this code. Friend replaced the cam sensor and it still gives this code. What else could be causing this? Thanks.

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dinkar443 |
63 |
24th October 2009 - 08:02 PM Last post by: ausom accent 9 |
Hello,
I am new member, trying to change the spark plugs of my 2004 sonata 4 cylinder. I am unsure of the size of the spark plug socket to use. I tried a 5/8" one and that seemed too small. Sorry if this question has been already posted earlier, but I couldnt locate and answer on this forum.
Thanks
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s32435 |
43 |
24th October 2009 - 12:56 AM Last post by: mbird97x |
Just trying to find the torque specs / procedure for the connecting rod bolts.
I am getting conflicting info.
On-line says these are one -time use flex-torque bolts.
Dealer parts dept is saying they are not !!!
HELP !!!!
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John61 |
28 |
22nd October 2009 - 03:17 AM Last post by: John61 |
2002 V6 Australian Sonata. Has been an excellent car but has developed a nasty habit of locking its own doors!. It may be when you unlock it with a key to get in, before you get a chance to open door its locked itself again. One can leave it unlocked and parked and it will just lock itself for no reason. Will even lock itself intermittently just driving along. Never unlocks itself. We dont use the remote fob, preferring to just use a key. (Luddites!!) . Any idea where to look?
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AviK |
38 |
20th October 2009 - 03:17 PM Last post by: AviK |
The local Hyundai dealership has a 2004 Sonata GL 2.4L engine 4 Cylinder. It has done 51,000 kms, single owner, off-lease (atleast thats what the salesperson told me). He is asking $8888 and I have offered $6900.
I dont want to spend too much on the car. I think my price is reasonable for 2004 Sonata, given the fact that the later year models (I think 2006 .. 2010) are much more reliable than the 2004. Can someone give me any reason why I should not buy the 2004 Sonata? coz you guys know Sonata more than I do, so need your help and advise.
I want to know what are the common problems with 2004 Sonata?
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mbird97x |
75 |
20th October 2009 - 12:47 AM Last post by: mbird97x |
Timing belt stripped a bunch of teeth at the crank gear. I bought both belts, the tensioner and a head set of gaskets plus new head bolts. Fearing the worst, I decided upon teardown to try and determine if any valves had bent. I pulled the valve cover off and pulled the plugs. I cut 2 wooden dowels at about 15" ea. I dropped these down into #1 and #2 cyls and turned the crank slowly until they were both about even. This way I knew that all pistons were midway down in the cylinders. I then turned both cams at the same time and watched the valve action for any staying down too low and indicating a bent valve. Going thru the firing order and looking at things like the springs, the rocker arms (or cam followers), I determined all looked well. I replaced the belts(s) and before butttoning up the front, I put it together just enough to crank and start the engine. No misses and a smooth idle. I shut it down and finished replacing all the removed stuff. So, I guess you can loose a timing belt and not hit the valves. Guess it just depends on where the cams are when they stop. My cams stopped with the timing marks at about the 9 o'clock position, looking at the front. I feel lucky.

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bishboy |
52 |
19th October 2009 - 10:20 PM Last post by: bishboy |
Good morning,
I have a 2001 2.7L V6 Sonata which has a leaking clutch master cylinder.
I have pulled it apart and found the larger seal (front one) is damaged. Hyundai tell me I need a whole new master cylinder and thoughts on this?
Or perhaps a part number for the seal?
Cheers,
Phil
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sonata75 |
45 |
19th October 2009 - 05:23 PM Last post by: montego |
I have a 2001 Sonata. I love the car but I have a problem. The car will not start sometimes. I mean turn the key and nothing. No noise no cranking sound no starter clicking just dead. Battery seems to be fine. If I wait maybe an hour or two the thing will start right up. It rans great and this problem doesnt happen on a routine basis. It seems to happen more when I do my errands alot of shutting and starting of the car in a short period of time. any help will be greatly appreciated!!!
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5
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SonataGrafton |
579 |
18th October 2009 - 05:22 PM Last post by: bishboy |
I had the left wheel hub assembly replaced a year and a half ago. Now the right side needs to be done as well. I have drum brakes in the rear, and was curious if anyone could tell me the level of difficulty there is in replacing the wheel hub assembly. Do the brake shoes need to be removed, or can I somehow leave them intact and get the hub out. I've looked on HMA's site, and from what I can tell, the hub is between the backing plate and the drum. Thanks!
***UPDATE***
I just completed the replacement. Its actually really easy. Hopefully this will help someone else that was in my same predicament. These steps are for wheel hub(bearing) replacement on a 2000 Hyundai Sonata, 2.4, WITHOUT ABS. If you need photos, please let me know and I will email them to you. There is NO need to remove the brake shoes, or any brake components when doing this exact procedure.
1. Raise car
2. Remove wheel
3. Remove phillips screw that holds drum to assembly.
4. Pull off drum (might require some effort) * Make sure parking brake is not on
5. Loosen and remove for bolts which hold on the hub. These bolts are located behind the wheel assembly.
6. Once bolts are removed, I used liquid wrench to soak the back of the hub assembly, allowing several minutes to soak in.
7. Remove hub. (In my case, it required banging from the back side with a sledge to get it to come out)
8. Installation is in the reverse. Mount new hub assembly, tighten bolts to torque setting, reinstall drum, reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts.
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hyperlexis |
505 |
18th October 2009 - 03:05 PM Last post by: Jameys44 |
I just had my engine subframe recall work done today -- in fact, they are still doing it and I have a loaner for the day. I was shocked when the girl came in and told me they are replacing the entire part because there was a huge hole in the subframe near the right suspension mount. I told her that I had seen the car up on lifts many times before and there were NO rust holes visible. She showed me a photo of it and then we talked to the mechanic he said he actually made the hole when he hit it as part of the testing procedure. The thing was rotted out inside so badly the hammer whacked right through it.
Point being -- if its covered by the recall, get your Sonata looked at by your dealer ASAP, because even if its engine subframe has no apparent external rust, it could be dangerously corroded and weakened inside.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Scanned HMA Docs Links re Sonata/XG350 Subframe Corrosion Recall
http://nhthqnwws111.odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms...09V124-3927.pdfhttp://nhthqnwws111.odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms...fromPublic=true
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jays6768 |
44 |
18th October 2009 - 10:56 AM Last post by: jays6768 |
I know the 2002 4 cylinder Sonata is not a performance vehicle. I saw all of the intakes available for the Sonata on Ebay as well as the performance websites. I didn't want to spend the over 100 for a real intake and the ones on Ebay I didn't like the goofy colors. I wanted an intake that fit well in the engine compartment and didn't add any blue or red or yellow. After a lot of looking around and jotting down notes I ended up buying the parts one by one to build an intake with Spectre and Vibrant components. I noticed that the stock intake is about the same size and can be broken down into segments just like an aftermarket intake. The parts I ordered cost me all of about 60 bucks before shipping. I am on vacation this week and my parts are set to arrive on Tuesday. If any other Sonata owners are in the same boat as I am I could document my process with photos and the like. My goal is to install a 3" intake with parts that are either chrome, black, or gray to match my car. I also must incorporate the section of the stock intake that has the sensor on it so I don't get any crazy CEL or emissions problems. I'm not looking for performance or I wouldn't have bought a Sonata in the first place. I didn't go with a K & N cone filter so don't talk smack. I'm starting off with a Vibrant 2160C filter because it is chrome and gray, like my car. I'm 41 years old and drive about 30 miles a day on surface streets to work and back...horsepower gain is not big on my list.
If anyone cares I will fully document my process. I have gotten a lot of information from this forum and forums in general so I'd love to give back
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'ric |
61 |
18th October 2009 - 04:15 AM Last post by: 'ric |
Hello all,
The OEM stero kept blowing a fuse, so I replaced it with a Phase Linear (Jensen) stereo receiver/CD/MP3 player. I also bought an after market harness so I could connect it to the original connector. I connected all the wires and fired it up. Everything acts like it works, but there is just no sound. I sent the stero back to Jensen and they sent it back to me claiming it works fine. It notes that it is only designed to be used with 4-ohm speakers. Does anyone know what type the stock speakers are? Could that be why there is no sound from any of them?
Any other ideas??
'ric
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gprr77 |
64 |
17th October 2009 - 10:19 PM Last post by: collin |
Car would crank but not start. Did a compression check #1=60, #2=210, #3=60, #4=90. Removed the timing belt cover plate and I could see were the belt was missing ridges in 2 to 3 inch spots. Pulled the motor removed the head and as you can see by the picture the valves made contact with the pistons, also included a picture of the timing belt replace for those interested, again guys and gals BIG THANKS to the group for all the info. I have done this kind of work for years but it seems I always learn new stuff here. Frank
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Executive Sonata |
3,797 |
17th October 2009 - 07:36 PM Last post by: BlackSpades45 |
Pretty self explanitory. I only see people posting about there problems. I never see anybody do anything more than tint, exhaust, and rims on these cars. Are you guys scared to push the envelope or did I miss all the actual car guy posts on this site (not counting the Tibby guys)? My car was recently vandalised... which in a way is a good thing. It will be repaired back to new basicly, so I will have a blank slate. I will gradually add performance parts like the Alpine Supercharger and the Ixion body kit with some nice wheels and a moderate sound system. Time to shake things up and after looking around on several other Hyundai sites, you guys seem to be the coolest and most informed. Thanks for reading, and I hope to be able to help out in this online Hyundai community.
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viktorw |
34 |
17th October 2009 - 11:41 AM Last post by: viktorw |
Hi all,
I live in Hungary (Europe) and bought my car with this rare engine (1997 Sonata 2.0i 77kW). I got an info from a Hyundai dealer that this car was sold to AustRIA. I am getting more and more problems in the past months with the engine. Nobody knows what is the reason.
1. I'd like to find an Owner's Manual, or Shopping Manual/Guide to download, where I could find at least the exact part numbers of my car. I had a lot of trouble that I had to buy some replacement parts which were not proper to replace. Unfortunately this model can not be found at hmaservce.com, which would be the perfect web page I am looking for...
2. Misfiring problem? I was told that misfiring occurs, even at warm engine. I was adviced to change the spark plugs and the spark plug cables. I replaced the distributor cap and the rotor as well, but the problem remained - despite some improvement. What to do?
3. Another issue that at starting the engine the tachometer runs up to almost 2000 rpm then decreases stepwise to about 1100, and then up again and down again until - I think - the engine gets warm. I did not find anyone who has heard about such a problem earlier...
4. I found somewhere on the net a drawing of the firing sequence (1-3-4-2, clockwise) and cylinder numbering 4-3-2-1. ? (I think cylinder 1 is the nearest to the timing belt, isn't it? So this sequence can be seen if standing in front of the car?) But my plugs are plugged to the distributor cap 180 degrees rotated: 4-2-1-3, if the first digit is the upper one...
Once I occasionally commuted the 1 and 2 plugs , and my problem #3 has been eliminated: the engine took up its stable speed at once, but was week when accelerating. Then I controlled the sequence and recognized the mistake. (Of course I tried the 1-3-4-2 sequence - that I found on the net - too, but this was even worse!)
I need to say that I began to do-it-myself only by necessity... Any help please?
Can I have an ignition coil problem?
Thx.
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graywarrant |
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16th October 2009 - 07:33 PM Last post by: graywarrant |
I've got my 02 2.7L V6 torn down to the point I'm ready to ensure my timing marks are lined up and remove the belt, however, the HMAservice information I printed off has no mention of the need to remove the front motor mount. From my vantage point, I don't think I can remove the belt without removing the front motor mount.
Am I missing something or does the front motor mount need to come off and it's missing from the HMAservice pages? If it has to come off (and it appears it does) any guidance from those of you who have been there and done that?
Also, looking at the HMAservice pages and the timing alignment marks, it appears that the pin that aligns the crankshaft pulley is also the point to align for TDC with the timing mark on the block. Is this correct?
Thanks
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ranganath |
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15th October 2009 - 05:40 PM Last post by: byronguidry3732 |
hey I posted one problem..
On the highway my car was broke down and after couple minutes it cranked again. Some one suggested me to take my car to expert for CEL code.
I took it to hyundai expert and he checked for the CEL and said everything is fine.
But again same thing happened but this time my engine dint crank...
is this symptom for loss of timing belt?
Could some one suggest a solution?
Please do reply ASAP.
My car is with hyundai expert and he might charge too much for this one... I donno wat to do...please help me out
Is it a fuse problem??????
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pacerbear |
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15th October 2009 - 05:21 PM Last post by: byronguidry3732 |
Whenever I attempt to take a left or right turn I hear a loud whirring sound (Best I can do to describe it). Also if parked in the driveway and attempt to steer either way, I hear the same loud sound. Any suggestions before I spend a fortune
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rdodson4 |
14,597 |
14th October 2009 - 03:53 PM Last post by: fbod383 |
I just bought (used) a 2001 Sonata GLS The check engine light came on and I cleared it by removing the Neg batt cable for a short time. A few days later while slowing down to stop the transmissiion made a slight "thump" sound as it was down shifting. The check engine light came back on..........I went to AutoZone and had them check the trouble codes: They found these two codes: P0715 and P1529. I've looked them up on the internet and found them to mean: Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction. and: SCAIR Solenoid Circuit Malfunction. BUT, What do they mean??? Where do I start to correct this issue. Any suggestions will be most appreciated.
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wenter |
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11th October 2009 - 08:15 PM Last post by: wenter |
Hi, all. I just got a 2003 sonata with 4cyl engine, auto transmission and 99000 miles. It was driving ok for couple of days. Now when temperature drops lower I have some problems with transmission. When I pull the lever from P to D car tries to jump forward. Transmission turns on very hard, then it will stick to the first gear and remain there and not switch to 2, 3 and 4 gears. I can switch to manual mode and switch gears manually. After about 20 min driving I can switch it to full automatic and it will work fine.....until another morning. I do not think transmission had ever being flushed or fluid replaced. So my question is: have anybody had similar problems? Is there any simple cure for this problem? Thanks
SOLVED. The mistery is solved. I had to replace the engine in this car and the Throttle Position Sensor connector broke. I soldered it but it had lost contact with one wire. This was the real problem. It had nothing to do with the transmission fluid (although I replaced it), but with the connector.
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Palmieri |
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10th October 2009 - 07:29 PM Last post by: Palmieri |
Hello!
I have a V6 2.5l in my 99 Sonata and check engine light came on a few days ago. As I drive along, the idle shoots up for no reason. I put in neutral and it dies on me. I crank the engine over and it doesn't start right away. I give it 2 or 3 minutes and it then starts up. It runs fine, but its happened more than once and need to get it fixed. I have scanned the car and I get the 0161 code which is the O2 sensor... I have yet to change it. Can this be the cause of my idling issues? If not, what can it be??
Please help. Thanks in advance!!!
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jladdm3 |
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8th October 2009 - 08:48 PM Last post by: jladdm3 |
I'm looking to purchasing a 2004 sonata, 4cyl, 77k, auto. What info and advice can you provide me? What are some common fail points to check out when looking at the car? common rust spots? Things I should ask the owner. ANY info you can provide me about these cars would be great.
Thanks a lot. Will report back how it goes.
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BlackSpades45 |
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8th October 2009 - 07:08 AM Last post by: Tom Keyser |
ok about 2 weeks ago mayb i got a Hyundai recall letter and it said that anyone that owns a hyundai should go to a local hyundai dealer immediatly due to corrosion of the inner frame something like that and some other parts but also it will replace the corroded part for free no charge ......so if anybody got this letter please respond and did the letter help ur vehicles? just to wonder? i wouldnt kno yet cause i got to go back another 3-4 days til i get a call sayin they got the parts...
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zibo2002 |
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8th October 2009 - 07:03 AM Last post by: Tom Keyser |
I own a 2000 sonata V6, my axle broke and wheel almost fell off while i drove on the road yesterday . towed to a mechanic nearby. they told me that subframe was rust out and lower control arm went loose. then axle couldnt hold the wheel. need to change subframe , Axle, lower control arm Etc....
it was extremely dangreous. i was really mad.
i called hyundai usa today, they said that my car is not in recall list( it's for 01 -04 model year) ... so they will not pay repair cost for me .
what should i do , any suggestions ??
i'll upload some pictures tomorrow when i get a camera.
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sg465 |
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7th October 2009 - 05:23 PM Last post by: hwytom |
Got the belt off and started in on balance belt. The plug in left block is stripped so cant use screwdriver to align balance shaft. Also, with instructions I was using it never said to break torque on crank sprocket and the main belts already off. How to break crank sprocket bolt loose with timing belt off and not spin crank too much and bounce valves? Also, any other way to do belt "b" without getting rear block plug out? Final question, After removing belt both cam sprockets moved a tooth off due to valve spring pressure, hows everyone line these back up with spring pressure on them? thanks
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ranganath |
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7th October 2009 - 05:16 PM Last post by: hwytom |
hey all...For my previous problem of not cranking...
solution is...Crank shaft sensor gone...HYundai mechanic is charging too much for it around 220$
He is suggseting to change my timing belt also....He said Total including timing belt will cost me 600$
do i really need to worry about timng belt?????
miles on my car is 64000
Do u guys suggest me to change the timing belt???????????? or just crank shaft sensor would be fine...
I am not really sure about the architectures of engines and all....That is the reason I hav eto rely on mechanics......THese people are charging like anything////
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