For the past few weeks I have been trialling a tuning box manufactured by a German company ASA Autotechnik Saretz and I have compiled the attached report giving details of my findings. Should you want more info from me contact via a personal email and I will try to answer those questions posed.



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Members in other Countries should check shipping costs prior to purchasing but I have been advised that they will be as reasonable as is possible)



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If you have another vehicle that has any other type of diesel engine, ASA Autotechnik Saretz possibly manufacture a tuning device for that as well so contact them to see what they can offer you.

Help all you mechanic types. a/c blows only warm air, compressor does not seem to kick on. I checked fuse and relay (in black box on wheel well). HELP, give me some ideas on what to check next, what might be the problem and any suggestions!!! THANKS!!!!!

Hey guy's. Just finished a timing belt job on a 2004 2.4 Sonata. It all went fine but I'm worried about the tensioner. I called the locak Hyundai dealer and talked to a few techs and they all said they're never replaced a tensioner on a 2.4 Sonata, they're pretty **** tough. When I Pulled the top belt cover I noticed the belt bowed up a little at the top with just a little bit of slack. If you turn the engine over by the crank bolt it all tightens back up but loosens again after a few minutes. It was super hard to reset, very stiff. I'm concerned about it actually forcing out of the body enough to keep enough tension. I was able to pull the rod out a little bit more by hand after I had it out. There didn't really seem to be much of a leak, if any, out of the seal so I don't think it's leaked out. When I installed the new belt it was the same, after a while a little slack would form between the cams. I think one thing I had going against me was I was testing the slack at TDC. At TDC the cams try to turn into each other because they're each trying to open valves. This was forcing the cams to try to pull against the tensioner. We're on a tight budget and a $100 tensioner just isn't justifiable unless it's definetly bad.

My question is, how reliable are these tensioners. I know guy's on here will replace them everytime regardless just because. But with a dealer telling me they've never had to replace one on this car I'm thinking they're pretty reliable. Is the little slack between the cams normal?

ok about 2 weeks ago mayb i got a Hyundai recall letter and it said that anyone that owns a hyundai should go to a local hyundai dealer immediatly due to corrosion of the inner frame something like that and some other parts but also it will replace the corroded part for free no charge ......so if anybody got this letter please respond and did the letter help ur vehicles? just to wonder? i wouldnt kno yet cause i got to go back another 3-4 days til i get a call sayin they got the parts...

I took my Hyundai Sonata to the dealer yesterday as it has been using ALOT of fuel and there was a check engine light. He diagnosed it with his laptop as being the catalytic converter and has said that a new one will cost about £700 including labour to fit it. He said it's because the Cat is inside the exhaust so you have to buy a new exhaust system as well.

There are just a few questions that I wanted to know...

Is the Catalytic converter inside the exhaust?
Is there anyway I can just replace the Cat rather than the whole exhaust?
Is there anything else I can do to fix it rather than getting it replaced?
And can anyone recommend a cheap, reputable place to get one from?

Thanks so much
Hollie X

Hi guys,

We've got a 2005 sonata with 95k miles and the extended warranty. In the last couple of months we've had our car into the dealership for various problems including rough idle. They replaced the plugs/wires and a coil pack (costing us $800!). They had half the engine ripped apart trying to figure out what was wrong because they weren't getting codes and didn't know what do to.

Well, last night the car died again and this time it seems bad. Check engine, Check oil, and check battery lights all came on simultaneously along with a lurch. There were some drops of oil ontop of the engine but I couldn't get a very clear view of whether there was oil further down. Engine isn't seized. Anyone want to do an armchair diagnosis? I'm hoping they can give me codes on monday.

I'm not confident in the abilities of their techs. Last time I had to encourage them to look into the coilpacks before they figured out what was wrong. I'm afraid they might have screwed something up while they were in there for the previous work.

Thanks

Hey guy's, new member here!

My father in law has a 2004 Sonata with 70k miles. Never had the timing belt changed or plugs. Just oil changes. He's wanting to do some work to it and I told him I'd help him out. I've done timing belts and major car repairs on several makes but never a Hyundai. He's a big fan of NAPA so he'd like to get the parts there if he could.

I called the local Hyundai parts dept. today to get some quotes and they wanted $75 for the drive belts, $90 for the timing belt and $42 for the balance shaft belt. Sounds a little marked up to me. So I have just a couple of questions. On my wifes VW and mothers Lexus they recommend changing the water pumps, idler pulley's and tensioners everytime the belt is changed. Is the Hyundai the same way? I called the service dept. and he told me their techs usually just replace the belts unless the other parts are worn or out of spec. He said the water pumps will last about 3 timing belts before needing replacement. Does all of that sound right?

Last question, I'm a big believer in OEM parts. Especially for the Lexus and VW. BUT he is on a bit of a budget, especially for what the dealer wants for the parts. If I can find the OEM parts cheaper mail order we can do that too. Are there any good mail order dealers that are good on prices? I have connections for Toyota and Ford that I get OEM parts for the same price or cheaper than aftermarket parts at Advance or something... How important is the use of OEM parts? NAPA brand drive belts are Gates which are a great belt. I'm not sure about the timing belts. Would we be okay using parts from NAPA for the Sonata? Really appreciate the advice and knowledge. Look forward to hearing from yall.

I have a 2005 Black Hyudai Sonata That I wash evry week.I went 2 weeks without washing it and when I did i noticed little burn marks alomost like someone put a cigerettr Butt out on my car.I took my car to the dealer and they said it was bird poop and the acid in the poop ate through the paint.I have a hard time beliveing after 6 months of having the car that this has already happened .My question is can this happen so soon or is my paint job and pice of junk.

I own a 2002 Sonata GLS V6 "pearl" in color. . . 134,000. . always serviced at 3,000. . tranny flush and refill, all the right things to do to extend the life of the car/engine have been done.

Now let me tell you I really love this car. . . its efficient on gas mileage comfortable and just enough get-up for me. . .I wasn't looking for a performance vehicle when I purchased the car and I am content. . .

Let me give you guys a quick history of my history with my Hyundai. .

Within the last year:

Sub-Frame corroded, axle/control arm tore out of sub-frame.
Wheel jammed into well and did a bit of body damage.
Control arm broke. . . . . .
Repairs done no-charge. . .about $5500 in work. . .

Timing Belt @ 135,000!!! No knowledge of it being done before, so if that original belt lasted that long, im one lucky SOB.

New Water Pump, Tensioners, Radiator Flush and Re-fill. . .

New lower power steering hose. .

4 Brand New Firestone Affinity Touring Tires. . .

Tune up for V6 engine. . new plugs, wires, all the goodies. . .

So after all this experience I find out my high pressure power steering hose is leaking. . and parts/labor will cost roughly $900!! I just dropped $1600 on Timing Belt and tune-up. .


So after my rambling, do you guys think I'm doomed with this vehicle or am I getting all the wear and tear problems out of the way?? I love this car and want to keep it but do I have a lemon here? Ill spend the money cuz I love the car and want to stay true to Hyundai and not buy a Honda. . any comments/remarks would be great. . . .

Cheers!

I have heard both. Does anyone have the for sure answer. The car has 37,000 on it now.

Thanks

I just got my 1999 Hyundai Sonata just half a year ago and it ran fine until last week. It just turned off in the middle of a stop light, when i turned it back on the car would not go over 3000 rpm. If i step on the gas pedal more it would just rev and jerk. I got back home and let it sit over the night, the next morning it was fine. For about a week all was well until today. The car also jerks violently right before stopping. Does anyone know what could be going on here? The car has 64000 miles on it.

All the help is appreciated,

Don

I have a 2001 Sonata that has been sitting in a gravel & dirt parking space for well over a year. I have replaced several key items with no great problems but have run into a stone wall with the rotors.

I purchased a Haynes manual and thought I was following it pretty well but..... The calipers came off easily and the caliper mounting bracket came off, not so easily then I removed the 2 phillips screws on the rotor and, according to the manual, the rotor should have slid off. Didn't happen... I used penetrating fluid around the center and even into the stud holes but the rotor will not budge. I have pried and beaten it but no go.

Am I missing something? Doesn't look like anything else should be removed or loosened. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also this is my first post of, hopefully, many.

Hi,

PLEASE HELP ME :'(

I have recently purchased a 2002 hyundai sonata GLS from a used car dealer. I have purchased this some 45 days back. I was having issues steering the vehicle so i visited a mechanic and found that the front frame of the vehicle is in a very bad condition. It is so bad that i had to get the vehicle towed back to my house.
I searched on the net and found many cars has same issue. The carfax of the car also indicates that it went through a corrosion treatment in jan 2010( i am surprised what did they correct ?).

Do you think I can contact hyundai for help ?

How much would be the approximate cost to replace the car frame ?

Any information, suggestions are most welcome.

Thanks,
kranti

I purchased a used 2000 Hyundai Sonata in April 2009. Since I purchased the car (11 months ago), I have had to replace the front passenger side wheel bearing 3 times. I just had the job done the third time three days ago, and it turns out that the wheel bearing, which was purchased at a Hyundai Dealership and replaced by my own personal mechanic, NOT A DEALERSHIP, is thoroughly rusted and in many pieces. This wheel bearing was replaced 4 months ago.

I'm wondering if there anre any other Hyundai owners who have had similar experiences regarding a worn out wheel bearing on the front passenger side associated with the subframe recall.

I've had my car in for the subframe rust recall, and it took the dealership all of 5 minutes to determine that the car was a safety risk and needed to have the recall work done - big hole in the frame after tapping on it with a hammer. They replaced the subframe.

Since I got my car back from the recall, I am noticing that it "sits" a little differently than it did before the subframe replacement. I notice that the front end is sitting higher up than it was before the work was done - kinda like the car is slightly jacked up in the front end now. The dealership was trying to tell me that although I had severe rust, there were no structural changes on the subframe due to the recall. But as the car is now "sitting" differently I am tending to disagree on this point. Is my logic flawed here?

After picking up my car at the dealership after the subframe replacement, I only drove it 200 feet before I turned around and headed straight back to the dealership - I could hear the wheel bearing noise. Funny thing is, the dealership found other things wrong with my car when they did the subframe, yet they NEVER mentioned the wheel bearing. Seems kind of like they were trying to cover something up.... they got all cagey when I told them I could hear trouble with the wheel bearing, and just by coincidence the mechanic was standing there, and he did acknowledge the wheel bearing issue, but tried to blame it on the car being too old. This, after I had already replaced the wheel bearing twice within the past 6 months. Why on earth would they send me on my way with a bad wheel bearing and not even mention it to me? Smells fishy to me.

Another thing that happened to me that I'm wondering if any one else has a shared experience, is that a couple of months after I got the car, before the subframe work was done, the windhield broke spontaneously while I was on a steep curve on an entrance ramp to a highway. I could feel the weight of the car shift and "POP!" the windshield cracked. No impact anywhere. Careful inspection with a magnifying glass does not show any microscopic "cracks" or "nicks". Now I'm wondering about this because I have read that some folks subframes have cracked while going around a corner on the highway, so I'm wondering what else might have a tendency to break while cornering on a highway if the subframe is in poor condition and the weight is getting shifted all over the place.

Besides the fact that the dealership did not disclose the problem with the wheel bearing, I had originally brought my car into the dealership last July or August, only a few months after I had purchased it, to try to get the recall work done, which I had become aware of by doing an internet search. The dealership told me at the time that my car was out of warranty and therefore not covered, which I knew to be false, but I couldn't get the dealership to change their minds. I also knew however that if this was a national safety recall, I would eventually have to be contacted by the manufacturer, so I decided to just wait. Once I had the letter from Hyundai, the dealership changed it's tune, and they went ahead with the recall work - some 8 months after I had originally brought it in.

So, between the wheel bearing problem not being disclosed and the fact that the dealership told me I wasn't covered by the recall when in fact I actually WAS covered leaves me in a position where I feel I cannot trust the dealership anymore. If they weren't telling me these things, what else aren't they telling me? That perhaps they are liable for the wheel bearing too, but don't want to admit it? Maybe the windsheild too? Or that I may have a bent axle as well? I have to wonder....

Furthermore, now that I have my car back from the recall work it seems that the front end has a slight wobble or shake to it that it never used to have. My personal mechanic thinks it may be a bent axle.

I've seen the horror stories about the subframe completely collapsing, the lower control arm seperating and the axles falling right off. But what about the situation where there is somewhat less than a complete breakage of the subframe - the frame is very weak, it gets bent at crucial support areas, the front end sags, that pouts pressure on the axle which causes the axle to meet the wheel at an angle, which pouts pressure on areas that weren't designed to take that much stress, which then jams the wheel bearing into the wheel? Hows that for a theory? Are there any good mechanics out there that can shoot holes in this theory? Just curious...

Of the many strange noises that my car has made along the way, there was one noise in particular that I have never heard before (I'm a musician and have very critical ears....). It was a steady-pitched squeal that had a certain resonance to it. NO what speed my car travelled at - be it 1 mph or 50 mph - the pitch of this squeal remains constant. I've never heard that before. Usually the pitch will rise as the speed increases... If I had to describe the sound further, I would say that it soulded a lot like when you take a piece of fine crystal stemware. moistern your finger and rub it on the rim of the wine glass. I mentioned this sound to the person who took my car in at the dealership and his reaction was, "Oh, that's NOT good". He didn't elaborate. Any good mechanics out there who might have any idea what could cause a sound like that? What if something was rubbing up against the axle, could that cause a sound like that? Could that even happen, or am I totally off the mark?

Just looking for answers to see if I need to take any further legal action on this....

how do you set the clock on a 1997 sonata gls

hey all im new to the forums and to Hyundai i bought a 2003 sonata v6 with 71 831kms a couple weeks back (good deal couldnt pass up). i have a few questions about it. one is a problem and the other is a question.

1) is there a way to make the keyless remotes beep when the door is locked/unlocked? has the factory keyless entry in it.

2) i am having problems with the stock radio/cd player. it actually started this week. what happens is the FM stations dont work (just produces static) but the AM stations work fine. is there a way to fix this?


thanks for any input much appreciated

Hello everyone, just wanna say I love this site, looks like it has a lot of good posters/topics. I am curious if performance headers from a 2004 Tiburon would fit on a 2004 Sonata, both are V6. I love this car a lot, but I would like to get a bit more power out of it. So if anyone knows the answer please let me know, thank you in advance.


-Aaron.

The car had been setting for about two weeks outside, I started her up without any abnormal indications. Drove for about 20 min under 55 mph in city with stop and go, no abnormal operation. Got on the interstate and took her above 55mph, in about 5 min the OIL light only came on. (I am 2/3 into my last oil change.) As I was looking for an off ramp, there was a squeal then the engine stopped (slowed.) I put in nuetral and made it to a station, all attempts to start get "click" of starter with no turn of engine. I looked in the oil, no water; I looked in the water, no oil.

I have been at a loss as to what could cause this, does anyone have any ideas? Oh ya, the timing belt is good, and the millage is around 140k.

ok so heres the thing:
so i was driving my car home from a night class a few weeks back and it started making a funky grinding noise. i went home and decided i would take it somewhere the next day. when i started driving it the next day the radiator got a huge crack in it on the way there and made me cry. replaced the radiator and still makes the noise. its on the drivers side kinda by the belt system but it may be deeper than that. it kinda sounds like metal on metal. water pump, fan clutch going out? you tell me i have no clue!

so please someone help me!!!!

Does anyone have a good used idler pulley they want to get rid of? It's the one with one bolt holding it on... mine is starting to squeal. If you come across and old 2.7 with one on that's good, I'll buy the shipping?!

There's a local pull your own parts near by... but it is under a foot of snow.

Thanks, Chris

We have a 200 Sonata, 2.4, auto with 237,000 km's on it. The tach works intermittently, When it works the car runs fine, but when it quits it will run rough, hesitate etc, Any suggestions ?

I have Sonata 2003, base model. I wanted to install a Power Antenna (depending on how easy to install one) so I don't need to keep taking it out every time I go to car wash. My question is, is there a power for the antenna near the truck? Or do I have to run a wire from the back to the front?

Hello, Hyundai family I'm getting two codes P0760=SHIFT SOLENOID © MALFUNCTION, any help in location and if the repair can be done myself.
Next code P3600= INFO NOT FOUND, need help finding the definition for this code.




Thanks in advance for all and any help

I don't remember this problem being so pronounced in other cars I have had, but lately I am constantly putting my 05' Sonata on recirculation when driving in the city to avoid smelling the car exhaust in front of me coming in. Especially when stopped at a light. Is the fresh air intake in front of the car? Any idea why am I constantly getting exhaust from the car in front of me coming in the cabin?

It seems like I can only use fresh air intake on the highway when away from other cars. What is your experience?

-brentvw

Hi Fellows,

The A/C on my '05 Sonata died last summer. Without any warning, there was no cold air coming out of it. The fan runs just well but something makes a little whistling noise so I shows it to a shop I trust and the guy said that among others the condenser is shot (the compressor seems to be running based on the noise it still makes) and that it would cost $400 in parts + labor.

Has any of you experienced such an issue. If so, please list the details of your event: what year your car is (especially if'05), mileage, when it was, and most importantly what you did to get it fixed (cost? recall? location of dealership?)

Thanks in advance

My Sonata has 107,000 miles and I have pretty much kept up with the manufacturer's scheduled maintenance. Just recently I took my car to the dealership with a problem with my heater blower. They found that I have a small leak around the value cover gaskets. They gave me a quote to replace the value cover gaskets and spark plugs of $1,200. Obviously not having the money at this time I decided to hold off. In the meantime we checked with a local garage for a price and they quoted $200. HUH? I contacted the dealership and they said they must have quoted me the price of head gaskets by accident. Not really sure if I believe them but now I am not sure who I should get to the work. I haven't had problems with my car and at the mileage and age of her I am nervous about just anyone touching my engine area.

Should I get the dealership to make these repairs or can any garage handle this without messing up my car?

So, to add to the long list of problems with my 01 Sonata 2.4

It has started to really lose power while driving. but only randomly, then it will take off. It feels like I'm riding in a car with someone who cant drive a stick.. all of the jerking back and forth.. its quite enfuriating. Got a CEL, it said misfire and O2 sensor.. replaced coils and sensor.. still same problem. replaced fuel filter also. No fix. Basically I accelerate from a stop (but it can happen at any speed) and it will lose all accleration and begin to slow down.. then BAM its full power back on and i'm spinnin the tires outa there.. then BAM, no power again. What els good it be. without wasting 200 more bucks replacing perfectly good parts....

I have a 97 Sonata Gl 4cly. lately the car will not start when key is turned will only click, couple days later will start just fine and sometimes will run for a week, sometimes only a day. took the thing to AutoZone and receive code PO443 which is leading to purge problems but that should not prevent the car from starting.
can someone tell me on which side is the starter, I believe that their may be a soft spot in the starter so would like to pull it and have it checked.
Any ideas?

I've used oversized oil filters on most of the cars I've owned. I was surprised at how small the filter is for the 2.7 engine. The benefits are more filtering area and a slightly larger oil capacity (about .5 qt more). I've not researched to see what filters are compatible (same thread and gasket size). Has anyone else researched this?
Thanks and take care.
Dale/cwoflyboy

Hi
I bought a 2000 Hyundai Sonata GLS in August 2009. I observed that the lights (headlights, signal lights) do not get automatically switched off once I have switched off the ignition. Due to this my car battery got completely discharged and I had to jump start it. Do the 2000 Sonata GLS have auto headlights switch off feature? If not is it feasible for me to follow some sort of instructions and make sure that my side lights and headlights get swtiched off once I switch off my ignition?

ok gents, the mystery of the misfire, rough idle, and a s*it load of codes has been solved! after reading tons of threads on here about coils, MAF sensor, TB, and every other suggestion i have figured out the problem.

quick synopsis:

p0303- cyl 3 misfire
another code cant remember about bank 1 being too lean and a few others.

car would idle rough, spit and sputter. after swapping coils, fuel injectors, cleaning MAF and TB, changing spark plugs and wires, nothing was working. with car running unplugged each injector to test, cyl 3 had no change. removed fuel rail to check the inj individually by unplugging the other 3 and placing a bag over active cyl and cranked, inj works. i have previously checked the spark by doing the same by unplugging wires and from what i can remember it was giving spark. removed cyl 3 plug and inspected piston head, and found very wet.

after inspecting the entire fuel inj and coil control harness by removing it and checking wires and plugs found no problems. however when reinstalled everything and tested it, it worked perfectly. test drove it with no problems what so ever. so the only thing i can tell you to check is the main connector for that harness to the left of the intake manifold. thats the only thing i hadnt touched b4 now. so if you're having this problem check that plug before you do anything else!!! the dealers couldnt even figure this out!! good luck guys.

Hi Fellows,

My '05 Sonata (V6 trim) occasionally loses power (usually when slowing down right around 35mph-40mph) and won't do anything even when pressing the gas. Then all of the sudden, coming out of nowhere the rpm goes really high and kind of shoots the car forward. All this happens while in auto on the 4-speed transmission and seems to be happening when the car downshifts from 3rd to 2nd.

Anyone has/had that? If so, was any fix proposed by a dealership, what is considered a recall or not, how much did you pay? Thanks in advance!

M engine idle speed increased after being parked at work. It was fine in the morning and then later it had increased bu about 1000 rpm. It has never come back down. I ruled out a vacuum hose because the OBD system would catch that. I have manually lowered the idle with the idle screw and the idle surges like it at the lower limit before the engine stalls. Any ideas?

Seems the homelink function and auto dimming function isn't working, is there fuses for that ? can't see any labeled as such

Bro's, Im planning to change my timing belt, i'd like to know what parts I need to buy aside from the belt? any specific brand for the timing belt? Thanks

hi guys i'm new to this product,been a jeep tech for over 30 years and finally called it quits.question is does anyone have any shortcuts or tips in removing the subframe quicker.any help would be cool,moe

Hello, I'm posting for my female friend Tirzah.

Her mom has a 2000 Sonata with the 4-cylinder. Timing belt broke! Belts were replaced and crank position sensor. After that was done, car sounded like crap she says, and just recently totally quit running.

So I've 3 questions (I searched and didn't see it)
1: Does the 4 cylinder (and 6 cylinder too I suppose) have an iterference or non-interference engine? (Belt breaks, do cylinders then smash valves?)
2: Does the 4 cylinder have 2 belts. one timing and other accessory? Is the timing the smaller of the two?
3: If valves were hit, engine shouldn't run anyway, regardless of new belt(s)?

Gracias Amigos!

Natesriv

My car was shifting a bit hard from 2nd to 3rd when I first started the car in the mornings. It didnt do it unless the car sat for a good 10 hours. lasted about 2 weeks, took it in to have the subframe recall checked out, they replaced it, 20 miles later the car stops moving and starts revving to the moon. I cant go past about 30mph in any gear because it will start revving and stop moving and lock itself in third gear. the car can start but there is a tick sounding like its comming from under the engine.

Also, before the tranny started acting up the check exhaust light would come on and off randomly every few weeks.
Any help would be appreciated.

This has been happening for quite some time now but since it is so inconsistent, it has been hard to diagnose. First off, my check engine light will be on a good majority of the time and will turn off once in a blue moon. Secondly, whenever I put my car in park for more than a minute or so then RPM's will start reving up to about 3/4 as if someone is pushing on the gas pedal multiple times. And then if I turn it off right after that, the car will not start for a few minutes. Then today, after it started just fine, I came to a stop light and the car randomly died. I tried it twice and after pushing on the gas, it finally started. Even worse, sometimes that car will just flat out not start, but they ignition will turn over..just not start. I've had it jumped a few times and it seems to work fine after that. The battery light will come on occasionally, but I have a fairly decent battery. I have so clueless and need HELP! Any information would be greatly appreciated Thank you!!

Has anyone had a front crankshaft seal leak on a 2.5L V6? I have one that keeps being pushed out of the oil pump and rubs on the backside of the crankshaft sprocket. The PCV system is clear too. Can anyone shed some light on this issue? Thx

On a 2003 2.7 v6 sonata is it possible to remove the engine through the top of the car or does the engine cradle have to be lowered and the engine removed from the bottom.

I have a 2000 Sonata V6. Took it to get my check engine light tested. They told me it was my purge valve solenoid. I had been having problems with my car not wanting to turn over when I put gas in it. Which, i read on here, that that is most likely the purge valve solenoid. Does any one know where this part is located on the car for me to change myself? I hate taking my car to shops

My 2002 sonata's radio runs perfectly most of the time. But If I hit a bump in the road it switches to the CD player briefly and then flashes error code 2 and keeps switching from FM radio to CD. It occasionally happens without a bump and persists through a whole ride? How can I fix this?

Hello everyone...First time poster.

I have a 2002 2.4L 4cyl Sonata and have been having some troubles after jump starting it. My radio, digital clock, trip odometer, and keyless entry all are not working. The radio and digital clock act like they have no power. The keyless entry is not responding (I checked the key fob battery). The trip odometer resets after turning off the ignition. All of the other electronics are working okay. I have looked at all the fuses for those things and they are fine. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions or should I just take it in to someone?

Thanks

Daughter tells me today she took her 03 Sonata through a carwash and forgot her power anteena was up so it got bent. Does anyone know how you would go about fixing it or would it need to be replaced completly?

I own a 2001 Hyundai Sonata GL w/ v6. 51000 miles. This problem started happening about a month and a half ago. The battery will drain overnight without any use. At first I replaced the battery suspecting that it had died. It drained the new battery the following day. Then I thought it was an issue with the radio, so I disconnected the fuse. The battery still drains. I took it into the Hyundai dealer, and the mechanic checked over the cables and the amperage draw of the battery. Everything was fine.

The vehicle operates normally as long as it is driven within a 12-24 hour period. If the car is left in the garage for longer than a day the battery will be dead. I tried yet another battery, suspecting that the new one may also be faulty. It drained the replacement just as quickly as the last two.

I'm out of options. I am nearing the point of just buying a new car.

(I apologize if this question has been posted and answered already)

I know this was posted at one time, but there were few replies. My wife has a 2004 sonata with 100,00 miles. At times, when she adds fuel it takes a few "cranks" to start. Seems like "vapor" lock. Any ideas, I know its the EVAP system but many parts. HELP!!!!

I recently helped my neighbor replace his CKP sensor in his '04 Sonata 2.4l for a crank no start issue with a P0335 code. I am a former tech for Ford (7 years) & am a technician currently for the city. After we got the car back together it wouldn't fire & still had a P0335 code (after we disconnected the battery, so it was a new code.) Against my better judgment, I didn't diag the car prior to the repair, going off what he wanted done & he checked out prior. After I worked on it & it wouldn't start I ran the pinpoint tests to see what the deal was. When I checked for resistance at pin 2 with the PCM connected, I got about 4k ohms of resistance and according to the test it was supposed to be infinity. According to the test, that meant there was a short to ground along that wire. So I disconnected the PCM and the resistance went to infinity, therefore leading me to believe the PCM was shorted internally. I also checked the sensor side of the harness & was seeing a change in resistance when the motor was spinning, leading me to believe the CKP was good as I've read there have been DOA sensors. The CKP was also a factory Hyundai part.

My issue:

My neighbor called the dealer & told him what we found & they told him the PCM should be covered by warranty, so he towed it to the dealer. They diagnosed the car & claim the CKP was in backwards and want to charge him $600 to fix it and if the PCM is bad, they'll replace that for free.

My question:

Can you put the CKP in backwards? When I installed the CKP, I actually spun the crankshaft backwards to move the crank wheel (the pickup for the sensor) out of the way. IIRC, the sensor would only go in one way and obviously the wheel has to pass through the sensor.

My point:

Basically I think the tech is full of you know what & trying to make some money off a customer pay job since times are slow. I've worked at several dealers & seen the stuff that some techs pull when they are starving and I just want to make sure my neighbor isn't getting ripped off and possibly help him should he need to dispute the charges.

i have a 2000 sonata that i bought used around 134XXX miles and now its at 138XXX miles. i never took it to get an oil change even though i heard to do one every 3000 miles. where should i go? im in champaign Illinois by the way.