We've got a new 2010 Santa Fe AWD LTD with about 2800km on it. About once or twice a week, under normal driving, we've noticed very harsh shifts. It seems to be the 2-3 shift and is around 40km/h. Just normal acceleration from a stop sign. And just recently a new issue. It seemed like it got stuck mid-shift... I was accelerating slowly from a stop and on the 2-3 shift the engine revved up above 3000 as if it was in neutral. I eased off the gas and then it completed the shift. My wife took it into the dealer today, but I'm worried they'll send it back as "unreproducible" as we've only had about 1 problem for every 10 hours of driving. We'll see what they say. As you can imagine, I'm not very impressed that we're having these issues before our first oil change...

Any thoughts on what the problem might be? Somebody mentioned that maybe there's something sticking in the transmission and it builds up enough pressure and then finally makes the shift. But I'm not a transmission expert by any means...

Having just purchased my new 2009 Santy, one of the things that was glaringly obvious (pun intended) was that the dash lighting was waaay too bright for me. I've always kept my dash lights in other vehicles turned down so that I can just barely see my instrumentation. Anything brighter than that interferes with my night vision.

Several posts on this topic exist, and it was from one of them ( see: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index.php?sh...st&p=289060 ) that I got the courage to proceed with a modification to remedy the problem.

The solution lies in replacing one of the resistors on the circuit board to which the rheostat that one turns to adjust the dash lights is mounted. Yes - some soldering is required. If you are unsure of your soldering skills perhaps you can ask a friend to help you during that step.

Here are the steps that I followed:

1. Remove the fusebox panel door below the four-switch panel that contains the dash lighting rheostat

2. Reach inside to the bottom of the switch panel - you can feel two catches at the bottom of this panel. Push up on them and the bottom of the switch panel will pop out of the dash. The whole panel can now be pulled toward you.

3. Remove the wiring harnesses off the back of each switch by pulling it away from the switch while holding in the tab on the connector which normally prevents it from coming off with vibration.

4. Take the panel to your workbench and remove the dash lighting "switch" from the panel by pressing the two catches (top and bottom) simultaneously and at the same time sliding the "switch" forward and out of the panel. It helps to have three hands for this, but it CAN be done. I used a small screwdriver to depress the two catches one after the other while slightly "rocking" the switch to keep one catch depressed while doing the opposite one.

5. The front panel which surrounds the thumbwheel is removed by GENTLY prying up the two white plastic catches - top and bottom - in turn. The front panel will pop off.

6. Slide the rheostat/circuit board/connector out of the switch housing by holding the D-shaped piece that the rheostat turns in to the side while pushing on the connector. Everything should come out easily. No force is required. If you are encountering resistance at any step, stop and check what you are doing.

7. Holding the circuit board, component side facing you with the rheostat at the top, you will see, just below and toward the left of the rheostat, a resistor marked "R2". R2 is rated 1k ohms and is the culprit in the too-bright dash caper. Desolder R2 and replace it with a 1/8 watt 4.7k ohm resistor (available at your local Radio Shack @ 5 for 99 cents - save the rest to modify your friends' Santy's when they see yours).

8. Reinstallation is, as the manuals say, the reverse of removal.

I arrived at the proper value of the replacement R2 by temporarily substituting a 10k ohm rheostat and trying it on the car. I adjusted my temporary rheostat until the dash lights just went out, then removed it and measured the resistance, which was something just over 5k ohms, so a standard-value 4.7k ohm resistor seemed to be the easiest solution. I find my dash lights now go as low as I like without turning off completely - I wouldn't want them to turn off should I accidently brush the rheostat while turning on my fog lamps, for instance.

Hope this helps others of you with light-sensitive eyes. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or run into any problems.

Harry

Here are two articles I found this summer while doing research on the 07 SantaFe AWD system. Very informative. I though it would be a nice addition to this forum.

"Hyundai's all-wheel drive system

By Jim Kerr

Hyundai has just introduced the 2007 Santa Fe and one of the features available on this mid-size SUV is all-wheel drive. It is a new system for Hyundai and is a good example of how electronics are improving all aspects of driving.

All-wheel drive systems are confusing for many people. I must admit to wondering myself to what type of system is being described in the sales literature. Let's see if we can simplify it. All-wheel drive provides power to all the wheels, as opposed to front-wheel drive or rear-wheel drive systems that only provide power to one end of the vehicle. That's clear enough, but some systems are also called four-wheel drive. Those systems also drive all the wheels, but are not designed to operate in 4wd mode all the time. The driver has to select 4wd when traction conditions are poor. But operate in 4wd mode on hard pavement and you will soon be paying for expensive driveline repairs.

Click here to find out more!
All-wheel drive however, can be operated on hard road surfaces. Some systems drive all the wheels all the time. A viscous coupling or a variable clutch inside the transfer case controls the rate of slip between the front and rear axles. Subaru and Audi are examples of great all-wheel-drive vehicles that use these controls.

Many of the compact and mid-size SUVs such as the 2007 Santa Fe use a front-wheel drive system with an auxiliary rear-wheel drive to provide all-wheel drive. This is better than it sounds. Modern control systems allow the vehicle to operate with front-drive only for most driving to optimize fuel economy, but engage the rear-wheel drive as soon as additional traction is needed.

Hyundai's new system uses a computer-controlled clutch mechanism mounted in front of the rear axle to engage the drive. It is a Borg Warner system that can provide up to 99% of the torque to the front wheels, but automatically diverts up to 50% of the torque to the rear wheels when needed. The driver can push a button on the dash as an input to the computer, commanding it to "lock" the torque transfer at 50/50 for getting out of slippery parking spots in winter or ploughing through some soft sand. While there is no low range in the Santa Fe all-wheel drive system, it is more than capable of handling many off-road excursions.

Because the torque transfer to the rear wheels is variable, a dependable, durable clutch mechanism is needed that can be instantly engaged. To do this, the computer monitors wheel speed, accelerator pedal movement and steering inputs. When 4% or more front wheel slip is detected, the rear axle starts to engage. It can also anticipate the need for additional traction and engage the AWD system when the driver accelerates the vehicle. Another feature is it can disengage the rear axle during ABS events to optimize ABS stopping.

The computer controls a large solenoid coil in the clutch housing. When energized, the solenoid pushes against a multi-plate clutch, which in turn holds a washer-like plate from turning. Ramps and balls between this plate and a second plate cause the two plates to be forced apart, placing pressure on a second larger multi-plate clutch that connects the driveshaft to the rear axle. The path of torque is complete and the rear wheels drive.

A button on the dash can lock the clutch to provide 50% torque to the rear wheels, but this only occurs below 35 kph. Above that speed, the computer pulses the solenoid to disengage the clutch mechanism, but it will automatically engage it again when vehicle speed lowers.

Finally, the system monitors steering wheel angle. Turn the steering wheel, such as when parallel parking or turning a tight corner and the computer will decrease the torque applied to the rear wheels to there is no driveline binding during the turn.

Computer controls, electric solenoids and data communication between computers are all used to provide smooth traction regardless of the driving conditions and optimize fuel economy too. That's modern all-wheel drive."
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/060802.htm

On the BorgWarner website I found this info.

" The BorgWarner High Energy ITM3e™ AWD System is the first industrialized all-wheel drive (AWD) coupling that combines a mechanical system, active gerotor pump, thermal management and new AWD control algorithms into a fully dynamic system that provides world-class performance in a package space only passive systems could achieve previously.

The ITM 3e™ is unlike any other active AWD product. The design features a third friction element, which provides maximum torque transfer in a package size optimized to allow installation in smaller passenger cars and crossover vehicles (CUVs). It also combines best-in-class drag torque performance, which improves fuel economy. The ITM 3e™ was recently launched in the Hyundai Santa Fe and in the Chery Tiggo produced in China. A new North American CUV program and a European high-performance application will begin production later this year.

The BorgWarner High Energy ITM3e™ AWD System and The BorgWarner Turbo & Emissions Systems Gasoline Turbocharger with Variable Turbine Geometry have been named finalists for the 2007 PACE Awards."

Guess who developed Acura's popular SH-AWD system? Thats right, BorgWarner.

I also read that the ITM 3e™ was also used and adapted to the 2006 and up Porche 911TT's!

I have a 2006 CDX with the 2.2 diesel engine and I thought some of you may be interested in the results of finding and fitting a replacement radio unit. I spent some days on the Internet (I'm retired so time is no problem for me!). I eventually found a company in China who had a range of units which fitted individual cars as "plug and play" with no wire cutting involved. I had the choice between an RDS unit complete with DVD and GPS or another one (WD6001) which had a better specification including iPod control:


• 6.2 inch in-dash Two Din TFT touch screen (480x234)
• 3D graphic menu
• Steering control function to match with the car's steering wheel control
• Built-in AM/FM radio; 30 stations storable (but non-RDS)
• Built-in analogue TV (no use for me in the West Country from May this year!)
• Automatic PAL/NTSC
• DVD/CD/MP3 CD player
• Built-in Bluetooth for connection of mobile phone
• Built-in GPS satellite navigation (runs from the micro SD card) – can have navigation and music at the same time (but see my comments later)
• USB interface (for connection of USB thumb drives or USB drives)
• Micro SD card slot on front face
• One channel AUX Video input, two channel Video output
• Rear view parking camera input
• 45W x 4 MAX power output
• iPod connector
• Dimmer function for night driving mode
I decided on the latter as I had already decided to purchase a DAB radio for the car which would make the RDS feature largely redundant. More on that later!
I guess my major concern was the removal of the dashboard trim to access the current radio - however I shouldn't have worried as a forum member helpfully explained the procedure carefully and even sent me an instruction sheet!
So to ordering the unit. I purchased it direct from the manufacturer (www.szwaywell.com) - I was able to have all my concerns satisfied in advance as I had a MSN Messenger type communication with them for some days before I committed. They were extremely helpful and explained that there would be absolutely no wires to cut as the ISO/DIN connection to the current radio simply unplugs and the new one plugs into the same block, and that all the steering wheel controls would operate as before.
The cost of the unit was 360 USDollars plus $70 for shipping to UK. I ordered it and they shipped it at 1pm on a Saturday (UK time). I was given a DHL link to see it as it moved to Hong Kong Airport, then Heathrow Airport, then the DHL centre in the East Midlands, then my local DHL centre in Exeter. And I could hardly believe it when it was delivered at 10.00am on the Monday morning, less than 36 hours after it was shipped. I thought I had beaten HM Customs & Excise but they sent a bill for the duty and tax at a later date!
I have attached some pictures showing the unit as it was delivered and during and after fitting.
Fitting - I began by removing the 2 screws holding the small glove box above the clock so that I could then see the old radio. I then followed the instructions from the forum member to unclip the dashboard trim and it went exactly as one would hope with no damage being inflicted on the "wood" and plastic trim. Then it was just a case of unscrewing the bolts holding the old radio, unclipping the power/connection block and then offering up the new unit. This was simple and in no time (well, maybe an hour as I went VERY slowly) the new unit was fitted and I tested the functions before I clipped the dashboard trim back in place.
Am I pleased with the result? From an aesthetic viewpoint it is as close to perfect as is possible to get - the silver colour matches the existing trim, even the blue lighting colour is a close match to the existing blue lighting of the other buttons. Everyone who has seen it has remarked that it looks as though it was designed by Hyundai as an original fitment.
How does it perform? Well the biggest problem I had was the GPS satnav and I thought I'd made a mistake buying it at first! As I said earlier you can choose which GPS satnav system you want supplied (the unit runs WINCE 5 and any system compatible with that works OK - in theory!). It actually runs the software which is on the micro SD card. I opted for TomTom as this was the satnav system I had on my current dashtop unit. Well that was a big mistake! It transpired that it is impossible to set the Regional settings in TomTom so the local time (time of arrival etc) is wrong. Doh! So more searching of Forums (especially www.gpsunderground.com) and I found that a more suitable system would be iGO8 and all the software is available on the site together with maps of the world. I have installed v8.3.2 and that includes maps of UK dated November 2008 and I even have speed camera warnings (£17 p.a. at www.pocketgpsworld.com) and Text To Speech ability as well.
What are the problems? It may be my installation but I have a very slight whine when the unit is on (and there is volume on the unit). It is not speed dependent i.e. it does not get louder or change if I rev the engine. It is not noticeable when you are driving – only standing still. I have booked it in the see a "radio doctor" in Exeter next week to see if he can solve it – perhaps it may be something as simple (LOL) as a choke.
The other comment is not a problem as such but when I am using the satnav and the radio for example, I would prefer the satnav screen to be visible all the time and the radio sound be replaced by the satnav instructions. As it is I get the radio screen all the time and the radio is muted and the satnav instructions and the satnav screen appear only when a turning or something occurs. I'm not sure I've explained that very well but I hope you can understand? It's not a problem and I have reported it to the manufacturer to see if a firmware upgrade could alter it. If not, c'est la vie!
Other than that I am delighted with the Waywell unit and can highly recommend it (no connection with the manufacturer!).
Once it was all fitted I then decided to fit the DAB radio and the reversing camera. I purchased the PURE Highway radio and made use of the aux. input connection in the Waywell rather than relying on the FM transmission to send the signal from the Highway. That way you get a solid signal. I fitted the unit itself into the box between the front seats and even using the arm supplied it fits perfectly. The beauty of fitting it there is that it is never on display in the car. I purchased a proper DAB magnetic aerial and the reception is perfect so long as it is not a dead DAB area. I find it better than RDS as it has all the benefits of DAB i.e. constant buffering of programmes so you can rewind live radio or indeed pause live radio to catch any traffic reports or news bulletins you may have missed.
Fitting the reversing camera was rather more tricky as you have to run 2 wires from the camera – one signal and one power wire. I tapped into the reversing light power wire in the tailgate and carefully ran the wires forward. It is hardly noticeable. I fitted the camera just above the number plate.

i have a 2008 santa fe se i wanted to upgrade my headlight and fog light bulbs but i dont want to go the expensive route with the h.i.d upgrade anyone recommend a xenon type for both headlight and fog light?

I know this is common maintenance, but I was changing the oil yesterday and I decided to take a look at the air intake, right at the butterfly. I was surprised to see how much crud had accumulated around the opening!

Some throttle body cleaner and a good rag did the trick!

Though it ran fine, it now idles more smoothly and is more responsive at low rpms.



All I did was...

-loosen the hex screw that clamps the intake snorkel to the throttle body. This is a black 10mm screw with a phillips center.


[attachment=15997:Snorkel_removal.JPG]

-release the air filter hold down clamps (3).

-pull the intake snorkel off of the throttle body intake.


[attachment=15998:Intake_B...rge_view.JPG]


The butterfly will now be staring right at you.

[attachment=16000:Intake_butterfly.JPG]

I used throttle body cleaner (as opposed to carb cleaner) so there was no chance of boogering up the positioner. Also, I sprayed a clean rag (old tee-shirt!) and wiped it clean while holding the butterfly open. This way none of the dissolved gunk would go into the intake.

Additionally, while I was in there, I cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor. This is located directly between the air filter chamber and the Throttle Body.

To get at this, loosen the 10 mm hex screw that clamps the unit to the air snorkel.

[attachment=16001:MAF_removal.JPG]

Then, using MAF Sensor Cleaner only (otherwise you may strip the coating off the heater wires), spray the heater wires and surrounding assembly till clean.

**Remember, these are heating elements that register airflow by the amount of current it takes to maintain temp as air passes over them. Do not touch them with anything, do not clean while energized, and allow to dry before you turn on the ignition or you will damage the unit.**


[attachment=16002:MAF_Closeup.JPG]

You may also want to spray the honeycomb opening of the MAF Sensor from the air cleaner side to be sure it's clean as well, for proper air flow.

[attachment=16003:Air_Cleaner_Top.JPG]


Once everything is cleaned, allow to dry and reassemble. Be sure not to over tighten the hex bolts or they will strip.

Don't be surprised if its hard to start at first due to residue or fumes left in the intake. Once she fires up, it will purr like a kitten, start easier, and have better acceleration from idle! Gas mileage should improve as well!

Go get 'em!

I came to Hyundai from a string of Hondas, all of which had programmable sunroofs. You could program it to close automatically when you shut off the ignition. Is the sunroof in the 2010 Santa Fe programmable in a similar way?

Purchased first Hyundai in April, 2010 Santa Fe 4 cyl. I was wondering if anyone else finds the front suspension knocking almost like a loose strut or shock over some small sharp bumps, seems to come from the passenger side wheel only. Dealer replaced the front struts at 700 miles said one failed, but it still makes the annoying knocks at times. "Expert mechanic" from dealer rode with me said it is normal for Santa Fe. Love the car except for this problem. I am frustrated by this, from this otherwise great car.
Thanks

Has anyone had rear CV joins replaced under the 100,000 mi / 10 year warrenty for drive train on a Santa Fe? One of my rear CV joints started making clunking noises yesterday. My SF is a 2007, so less than 10 years, and has 92k miles, so less than 100k. I guess I'll find out Next week when I can take it in, but has anyine had teh rear CVs go bad while under teh 100k warrenty? Just curious.

I just passed 80k miles on my original tires on my 2003 santa fe. They are BF Goodrich. I rotated them front to back at 60k and thats all I've ever done to them besides keeping inflation up. Never had a wheel alignment. I think I can get another 10k miles out of these if I can get through the winter out here in Colorado. Any one else ever get this kind of mileage out of their tires? I've never in my life got this much mileage out of a set of tires or had a vehicle run truer. It's true the tires are a little noisy, but what mileage! BTW, I just did my timing belt last week for the first time and that is the first time this vehicle has seen a shop.

Hello,

I was looking to buy this running board from this supplier for my 2010 SanTa FE

http://www.asunye.cn/productshowimg/311687...pare_parts.html

What do you think?

Is it of good quality?

What do you think is the most I should spend?

Any other advice or suggestions?

This is my first time buying running boards for any of my vehicles.

Thanks.

OJ

Has anyone had success in disabling the "no seatbelt fastened" chime?

Basically, does anyone have or have seen the cargo mat for the 2010 Santa Fe? My local dealer has none, they told me the most recent accessory book Hyundai put out was the 2008 version and all are online now, however the picture of the cargo mat for the 2010 at the Hyundai site is literally about an inch x 1.5 inches and all black and you cannot see ANY detail. I really cannot trust that the 2010 one is the same as the 2008 one in that accessory book. The picture is slightly larger but still very inadequate.

I want/need to know if it has enough friction to stop boxes and whatever from moving around. I have a few small boxes (same size boxes that printer paper comes in) back there and with even the slightest turn they move around like it's a pool table back there.

Thanks!

Mike

Well, "what to do"?! With so many 2010 santa fe transmission problems-should we wait for a recall or updated TBS? I don't want to go to my dealer and waste my time on an ineffective fix. Many of the stories here are: _Go to Dealer-can't find/duplicate problem. _Reflash TPO. _Install rebuilt transmission. It seems that after all these so-called "fixes" The problem "reappears" or is not solved at all! Any advice? One forum member stated that he knew it was an assembly/fit problem with the transmissions at the factory on the 1st run productions. Has this been corrected at the factories? Will we be fortunate enough to have a recall and have the updated transmissions installed in our vehicles? (doubt it!) The transmissions, I assume are assembled in a factory in Korea (engine is USA and transmission Korea according to the MSRP sticker).

I, so far, have the hard/delayed shift from 1st to 2nd and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. I don't have the BANGING or movement problem as others have-but I only have a bit over 1000 miles on my 4 month old 2010 (don't drive much). Any advice? Are we causing further damage by driving these vehicles with the transmission defect? Why waste time going to Dealer when there "is no fix"? Thanks for any advice! Tedrik P.S. Now I'm seeing forum complains on oil leaks! UGH!!

My XM free trial period expires next month and i was wondering what you are paying for your monthly subscription. Is this something that can be negotiated? I got a call last month asking me to renew and they said it would be $15/month. I said i was not intersted and they said they could do it for $12/month. I refused. I got a letter in the mail with a price of $8/month. Do you think this is their best offer or can i get it for $5/month.

Hi all

JUst bought a used SantaFe for family.
I would like to change the audio from single din to double din.
If you look at the photo, i need to get new face plastic to be able to insert 2DIn player.

Can anyone advise me where to get them?


Thanks

Hi,

I cannot connect my 8 Gb Ipod Touch on my new Santa Fe 2010 radio. Does someone had the same issue ?

Thank's

Hello, just started negotiating with the dealer. How much below MSRP have people negotiated for a base V6 in Canada? Hyundai is knocking 1500 off the 28,999 MSRP, so how much can I expect the dealer to come down?

Any one ever try these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/07-09-HYUND...31#ht_842wt_939

Price looks good...18" rim..chrome...guys says they are factory....

While vacationing in Florida, I rented a SUV for 2 weeks.

The options were:

Jeep Liberty
Ford Edge
Kia Sorento

Being a Hyundai owner, I decided to go with the 2011 Kia Sorento.

Now I know this isn't a Kia forum and that Kia is part of Hyundai, but I thought I would share my experience with this SUV.

WOW! I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of this SUV. The transmission shifts were extremely smooth and very responsive when you stepped on the gas. Speaking of gas, I pretty much went everywhere in Florida on almost a tank of gas...very good on gas for such a large SUV. Another thing that I liked about this SUV, was that it seemed to hug the road extremely well.

Returning home from vacation, I hopped into my Santa Fe and quickly felt a huge difference in transmission quality, and power responsiveness. Furthermore, I really felt how wobbly my Santa Fe felt in comparison to the Kia Sorento's stance.

Don't get me wrong...I love my Santa Fe, but wish that Hyundai could address the transmission shift quality & lag issues.

Cheers!

Here's an interesting story that appears to have some basis in fact:

http://www.ajc.com/business/hyundai-eyes-s...rss_news_128746

Hi, i just bought a new Santa fe 2010 (Sport) and i want to know how to setup language on the radio ? I cannot see that on the Owner manual !

Thank's

Well the first thing to brake on my three-day-old Santa Fe SE, is the sunglass holder above the rear view mirror, it will not retract. I called my dealer who ordered the part sight unseen and will have it ready when I bring it in. I hope that’s the only thing that goes wrong with it. Is this a common problem for anyone else?
TFlight
java script:add_smilie("B)","smid_6")

What size are the speakers in the doors on the 2010 Santa Fe SE?

Based on my limited knowledge of car audio,I've deduced that the upgraded stereo offered by Hyundai is nothing more than a subwoofer, and Infinity speakers (Infinity does not make head units). So I was thinking that I could replace the speakers in the doors and I'd pretty much have the upgraded unit, minus the sub (and 6-disk changer which is useless to me anyways).

We just purchsed a new 2010 Santa Fe SE (our first Hyundai) with tow package (but no hitch). I am looking at aftermarket hitch options and have narrowed it down to the following:

A. Curt (C13004)
B. Cequent Brands

1. Draw-Tite (75684)
2. Hidden-Hitch (87574)
3. Reese (44639)

I have seen a fair amount of discussion and photos about hitch options for pre-2010 Santa Fe's, but nothing concerning the 2010 models.

I would appreciate any thoughts, experiences, and most importantly photos of any of the hitches installed on your 2010 Santa Fe.

Thanks in advance for your help!

I recently noticed some noise (whisle) around the timing belt at startup and when I'm driving at low speed.
I'm pretty sure its the timing belt or chain i heard my 09 has chain...

should I take time to go see my dealer ?

thank you

are the OEM fog lights available for purchase, and if so has anyone added them to their vehicle? I was looking at it and it didn't seem like it would be too crazy to do.

I have no idea how they got in there, but I'm just wondering if anyone has had this before or have any do it yourself ways to get them out of there, I was thinking a small vacuum or something in through the high beam housing, but the moth is right out of the way.


Moth



Mosquito



any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

thanks, Billy

I'm just curious if the USB port is compatible with non-iPod devices. I have the Microsoft Zune 1st Gen (yeah I know, me and like 7 other people!) and I couldn't get it to read the device when I tried but I figured I'd ask here anyways. Someone might know a hack or trick or something to get it to read. Otherwise I'll just use the male-to-male audio cable, but I'd like the additional features of the USB port if possible. My apologies if this has been covered at length before.

EDIT: It's a 2010 Santa Fe SE AWD V6.

Hi,

I have just come back from holiday in Germany and France, during which my 3 year old Santa Fe with only 37000 miles on the clock decided the auto gearbox was going to fail on me.

So the million dollar question here is ...... am I the only person with a 'failed' auto gearbox or are there more of you out there ?

Just wondering if anyone else is having issues with their alternator going. After 3 years I have just gone through my 2nd one. The first one went after 1 year and 5 months. Driving home in a winter storm the seatbelt light started to flash and then I noticed that the wipers started to slow down. Of course I was stuck in bad traffic going nowhere so I couldn't even pull over. Soon all the dash lights lit up and the car died. They replaced the alternator and told me that it wasn't a common thing. 1 year and 5 months after this, it happened again! This time I was lucky that it started acting up when I was about 300 meters from a dealership so I pulled in and parked it. Unfortunately it was during a long weekend so the truck sat for 4 days before they could look at it. As soon as I started telling him about the flashing light he new what the issue was. Said that it was a little more common and that the front rocker cover gasket has a habit of leaking and then of course goes on the alternator and burns it out. Anyone else come across this? I'm sure you can understand that I'm concerned that this is going to happen again in another year and a half.

I'm seeing a lot of posts here that describe the 3.1 liter oil change instructions but I haven't been able to find any on the 2.7. I'm not a pro but I've been changing oil in my cars for over 30 years so I'm no amateur either. I see everyone talking about the cartridge oil filters located on the top of the engine under a cover. I am almost certain I have a normal oil filter located under the engine on the passenger side right next to the oil pan. Is this really the oil filter for the 2.7 and will a normal FRAM filter be ok?

Thanks for the help!

Hi,

I picked up my new 2010 Santa Fe yesterday and when I went through the owners manual I found that it had nothing with any detail dealing with operating the NAV system. Does anyone know if there is an online version?

thanks
Santafekeller

I LIKE NEW WHEELS ON MY SANTA FE 08 ,,,, 20X8.5 WHITH 265/50/20 TIRES

I'll need a front brake job soon and may do it myself if there are no rotor issues. Question is that the dealer advertises that they repack the wheel bearing when they do a brake job. I can see this on a rear drive model with front spindles, but I've never seen this on a FWD vehicle with CV joints.

I've got no problem doing it, but would need some advise on removal (if I pack them the way you pack a standard bearing race). Don't particularly want to pull the drive shafts!

Any comments?

With all the talk/problems with the 2010 Santa Fe transmissions-a question comes to mind. How can an "adaptive transmission" really adapt in a household with possibly 2 or more people driving the same vehicle? My wife and myself, at times, drive each others vehicle. I don't know if my wife's car has an adaptive transmission-but it doesn't seem to be a problem when I drive it and then she drives it. We all (?) probably have different driving habits- so how do these transmissions adapt?! Could having more than one driver possibly cause erratic shifting in some vehicles?! Is the adaptive transmission feature only built with the assumption of ONE owner, ONE driver? Can some one make sense of this? Thanks, Tedrik

I changed all of my tranny fluid in one shot yesterday and it was easier than I thought. I wanted to share what I did in the hopes that some of you could benefit from this as well:

First, I located and disconnected the return line from the tranny cooler. (see below). The reason I chose the return line is so that the fluid in the cooler would be changed as well (I'm a bit anal! Ha!

[attachment=16858:Tranny_L...Close_Up.JPG][attachment=16857:Tranny_C..._Removal.
JPG]

With the cooler return line removed, I fished the hose down through the bottom of the vehicle and I stuck a piece of clear nylon tubing inside to extend it (any extension will do). I also put a hose over the metal tubing and ran that down and out the bottom , just in case any fluid came out there. The tranny cooler lines are 3/8", so some 3/8" fuel line works nicely for this.

Beneath the vehicle I placed a container large enough to hold a couple of gallons, to catch the fluid. Once set up, I started the car in Park and let the torque converter pump out the old fluid.

I measured what came out and found it to be approx. 5 qts.

Next, I removed the shield underneath the car and made my way to the tranny drain plug. A 24mm box wrench easily removed the plug, and I drained a remaining 1 qt from the sump. This now eliminated the old fluid in the reservoir, so all that's left is what remains in the torque converter.

Now, clean the magnetic plug of the grey goo (magnetic debris) and replace the plug. If you like, you can replace the bottom shield too, or leave it off so you can check for a leaky plug later.

Next, put 6 quarts back in the tranny. This will give you 5 to push out the old in the torque converter and leave one in the bottom of the sump.

Now start the car again in Park and pump out the 5 more quarts in the torque converter.

Once done, reconnect the cooler return hose, and fill the remaining 5 quarts in the transmission. Pour slowly, or it will "burp" on you and make a mess!

Start it up, let it run for a while, and take it for a spin! If you're like me, and you used the Castrol Multi Import, you'll notice it shifts smoother, more quickly, downshifts quicker, and overall, just performs better!

Good luck!

According to Mr Lube/Lubex here in Edmonton, Alberta, the 2010 Santa Fe is not listed on their system! Anyone else find this? Only up to the 2009 model.

I've done 10000km in three months and the oil has only been topped up at the 6000km service. However i have done a road trip since then and i want my oil changed. I do not have the tools or knowledge to do this myself so i took it to one of these well known chains only to be told above.

Would you suggest waiting until my next dealer service due in 1000km or take it to a private garage? I was thinking of treating her to a drink or some top-end oil which my dealer probably will bill me heavily for.

Thoughts?

Purchased this car new. 2008 GLS w/ V6 2.7L engine. Wife's car, so I rarely drive it.
She's complained for a month about an intermittant issue with the jar "jerking", usually during slow speeds.
I felt it for the first time myself. Was halfway through a pretty tight curve at around 20 MPH, starting to slowly accelerate when I felt a definitive lurch. might have been momentary loss of acceleration, or transmission. Not sure which. No CEL thrown.

I did see another thread mentioning a 2007 with a similar issue, but that person had codes thrown that pointed to a Throttle position sensor and a need to reflash a transmission. Think I'm seeing the same situation, or would this be different ? Absent any CEL, i'm sure the dealer will not be able to find it.... thoughts ?

Yes it's the never ending saga of trying to connect an MP3 player to the older Santa Fes.

I currently have an FM transmitter but I'd like better audio quality as around Toronto there's only two frequencies free and even then it's just that those stations are weak, not a totally free frequency... and they're popular with everyone else with an FM transmitter!

So. Is it possible to put a 2010 Santa Fe radio into the 2008? I want that iPod control and have it look factory nice!

I've looked into the 3rd party iPod interfaces that cost $200 (more in shipping when it gets into Canada tho!) But looking for something hopefully cheaper. I'm good with a soldering iron so if bring it on if that's possible!

I just got a Santa Fe Limited with the navigation system. When I plug my iphone into the USB jack, I immediately get an error message on the screen which says "media connection error", and the system is not finding the iphone or the music on it. Has anyone else had this problem?

Hi,
I have been searching for an oil leak all day on my 2006(new 2007 model 2.2 crdt santa fe) after a couple of hours searching I have found it even though it is quite severe.
The leak is in between the oil cooler (square object under the filter) and the oil filter housing.
The reason I could not find it was because it only leaks when the engine is started from cold and it leaks quite bad.When it heats up there is nothing.
Now my question.
Is ther a kit I can get to repair this area ? (gaskets or o rings) ?
Or do I have to replace the oil cooler or the housing or the whole lot.

Thanks for taking the time to read

This Sunday I noticed a strange burning smell which seems to be coming from the front passenger side???

Is it the catalytic converter or possibly a plastic bag that may have got caught on one of the heatsheilds...or is one of my brake pads sticking?

My truck is fairly new...just under 11,000 KM's.

I'll book an appointment with the dealership, but was wondering if anyone has any thoughts or experienced something similar with their Santa Fe.

Thanks.

I have a 2008 SF Limited AWD. When the car is ideling and I am at the back of the car I can smell a very distint smell of amonia. Just wondering if this is normal for this car as none of my other cars have ever smelt like this. I only have 20,000 kms on the car.

Cheers,

Just picked up my 2010 Santa Fe two days ago. I live in Brooklyn where people don't think twice about backing/pulling into your car to get into a parking spot. I am going to be picking up a Bull Bar for the front and wanted to know if anyone had found a nice looking rear bumper guard?

Here is the front bumper guard:
Front Grill

Found these two for rear but not liking either too much.
Rear Bumper Guard
Rear Guard

Thoughts?

My 2010 Santa Fe is leaking oil. I bought it in April & it has under 8,000 miles. After parking the car, I see oil spots that range in size from a Silver Dollar to a CD after a few hours.

First, the dealer said it was a cracked oil filter cap, so they replaced that...I brought it home and it was still leaking.

Brought it back to the dealer, and now they are saying the Timing Chain Cover Seal is leaking.

I'm no expert, but it sounds pretty serious. Is there anyone who has had the same issue? Does anyone know what this repair entails? I'm pretty sure they have to remove a lot of other stuff to do this repair...how concerned I should be about this?

Yes, I have asked the dealer all these questions, but I would like some unbiased info if possible.

Thanks everyone in advance for your input.

I was driving through a heavily congested area a while back. Lots of cars in the road, turning out of a parking lots to my right etc....(it was a drive in theater and the cars were all leaving)...well a guy pulled right out in front of me and I hit the breaks and the horn, stopping a couple inches from his rear bumper. After I got done swearing at him from inside my Santa Fe, I realized it was a co-worker....and I talked to him about it the next work day. He said that until I hit the horn he never saw me there, that the tiny headlights and non-existant marker lights made me invisible, lost in all the lights from the other cars.

So I went outside to look at the Santa Fe from his point of view. Yep...he's right. The tiny projector beam headlights SUCK! and the limited amount of amber clearance lights on the front make it even worse.
SO whats the solution? The nike swose shaped amber reflector in the 08s headlight assembly....could they be lighted from behind? My fast solution is to install a couple bright amber clearance lights in front of the radiator but behind the grill. That way to entire grill area becomes a light. Looks like **** but it would work. Any other ideas out there?

Welll I was going to post a pic of the headlight area but im being told that dynamic pages are not allowed. Something change?

Hi there, this is my first posting so is there anyone out there who has ordered a Santa Fe from a UK dealership this year and can tell me how long it took to be delivered. I ordered mine in the 2nd week of May 2010 having been told it will be delivered within 8 weeks, however so far not a sign from the dealership, just a few hints that it should be on time. My last car was an Audi and they kept in touch with me on factory order confirmation, build, shipping and eventual collection date. Any feed back will be most appreciated as I'm concerned that the Audi trade-in quote is loosing value as I write.
Cheers

Hello,
Greetings from Lithuania! This is my first post, so I want to say hi to everybody on this community. As I like to perform some maintenance to the car myself, I wonder, if there is any workshop manual available for public? If so, can anybody share a link or the manual itself? Hopefully I would be able to contribute later with some How tos with pictures back to this forum.
Thanks in advance,
Jonas

Santa Fe Will Get the 3.3 mated with 5-speed auto transmission For the US in the SE and Limted, with Aluminum block and head
- DOHC, 24 valve
- Continuously Variable Valve Timing (CVVT)
- Multi-Point Programmed Fuel Injection
- Variable induction system
- Hydraulic motor mounts
- Maintenance-free steel timing chain
- 235 HP
- 226 lb.-ft. torque
- ULEV emissions
- 20 MPG city/ 30 MPG highway

adding a 18" Wheels
Or
the 2.7 will be fitted in the GLS mated with a 4-speed auto-transmission or 5 speed Manual.. with 16" wheels

All models has TCS, ABS and EBD
and all have Shiftronic (auto gear)

info from www.HYUNDAIusa.com
and http://allnewsantafe.com/
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Cadillac shocks and struts
Chevrolet shocks and struts
Shock absorber