Just bought this 2001 XG300 with 84K miles on the odometer.
I was wondering what would be "normal" fuel economy for the
car at this point in its life. My commute involves a mixed bag of city and
highway miles. Not sure what to expect. And, other than tire air pressure
and clean air filters, is there anything I can do that might positively impact
fuel economy?

the tachometer just quit working on my GL 350, also the check engine light came on..any tips

I'm putting here the current state of my '01 but not to ask for help. Not that I don't trust anyone's knowledge but mostly as an explanation to why these cars are not easy. I spend so much timing helping others on here while at the same time i've been dealing with my own troubles. I bought the car for $450 with 70k miles from original owner ( still under warranty) some big dents and heat warpage to interior.
Started off with a worn motor from lack of maintenance (but it did run for one night after doing these 4 repairs)
rusted out fuel pump from sitting for 2-3 years
alternator was done as it was the old style with big pulley
Needed a battery
bad MAF

In the past 1 1/2 weeks
-I rebuilt the block using Mitsubishi 3000 gt piston rings (yes it worked)
-Rebuilt the heads myself with new valve seals, cams seals
-Re-used some head gaskets which had 10 min of run time on them and sprayed with copper spray
After car got running.........
-it bogs when revving high and under loads, wont hold an idle after it gets really hot from driving around the block
-It's running lean so I sucked the gas tank dry as it was coming out yellow from the rust, then I scraped most of it out from the bottom of the tank and again found the fuel pump was rusting out and strainer was filthy. Put fresh 91 octane
-All this rust killed one injector, and the others had oil on the spray side from when the engine was burning oil So I swapped them all out.
-Fuel pressure was good the whole time but I swapped out the fuel pump for the one in the Accent(yes it works)
-Found and repaired 2 cut wires in the main engine harness which turned out to be ground sources for something
all in all spent 2 full days doing diagnostic checks like compression, timing, electrical pin out tests, sensor performance test
fuel pressure
-swapped in a spare PCM,APS sensor,Throttle body and re-initialized
-went as far as I could in the diagnostic process having only a generic scan tool to check sensor readings and after all this I can say it does run better now it is drivable but still bogs and eventually dies out at idle.
-I got to the point were I knew I had met my match and called my long time Hyundai friend but it's hopeless when the only codes being thrown are those for limp home valve being on.

The only thing left for me to try now is another MAF, Proper fuel pump, find someone with an XG300 so I can compar MAF voltage readings. I know the Hyundai scanner reads in .mv but my scanner reads in lb/hr so I hooked up my VOM and got a reading and it was'nt what the Hyundai scanner reads. It's reading low and doesn't change much with higher rpms which could explain why it's leaning out at higher rpm's. The old MAF does the same thing but at even a lower spec. I'm starting to believe I may have a restriction in my downstream cat as I allready check the manifold cats when engine was out. Would hate for it to be a exhaust restriction after all this but would also be glad it's fixed. So like I said i'm not asking for help just wanted to let you guys see that XG's can sometimes be very involved and why the independent mechanic does not like to work on these. If and when I figure this car out I will post my findings. As for now i'm leaving town and i'll get back to it next week.

Hello all. After installing have the replacement motor (~62k) in the xg, I am greeted with the oh-so-sweet no start. I noticed some coolant and oil mingling together (leaking from the VC) when I pulled the plugs Are the 3.0's prone to blown head gaskets, and if so, should I stick with factory or aftermarket?

Thanks,
Brad

does anybody know of any good websites or companies or stores around southern california where i can get cheap body parts for my 2001 xg300?
im looking for a hood, fenders, and headlights. thanks.

I had a codas, maybe loose gas cap, clearded the code then check engine light came on again and tachometer stoped working, not any input at all.
any information would be helpful..

I need to replace the light bulb in the courtesy / map lighs.
(The two little lights over the rear view mirror)
Does anyone have any idea of how to safely
access them(without cracking the plastic)?
I hope its somewhat less involved then the changing
@#$$5 fog light bulb was.

I just purchased a used 2001 XG300 with 84K miles on it. I have been exploring the car since I dont have the owners
manual (yet, I ordered one from eBay). One of the things I discovered was a lock on the trunk latch that, when engaged,
prevents the trunck from being opened with the key or from the release. Can some one tell me what the practical use for that
would be?

i have 2001 Xg 3.0
a few weeks ago...
my transmission stuck at third gear..
cant do down or up...
but if i re start the engine..
everything back to normal...

my question is...
whats wrong with that??

My XG 350 has CEL indicating cylinders 2 4 6 misfires

Plugs have been changed (twice) with only short improvement

Thanks for any ideas

Hi all, over the last year or so, my year 2000 Grandeur (XG300) has occasionally popped up the CEL with the following effect on the car:

1. Car still drives normally, but when stopped and in park or neutral the idle speed goes up from the normal 700 or so rpm to around 1100.

2. Strong smell from the exhaust like unburnt fuel (smells like coal/coke burning). Engine is obviously running on a VERY rich mixture.

3. If I turn the engine off and wait for 20 seconds or so I can re-start and all is back to normal with no CEL until the next time.

Just recently this has been happening more and more often to the point where I've taken it to my service center (not Hyundai, but very capable) and they have found the following codes:

P1159 Variable Intake Motor Malfunction / MAF sensor?

P0100 MAF sensor?

They replaced the MAF sensor but the problem persists.

The air cleaner is almost new and the intake manifolding etc has been tested for leaks etc.

The car has only clocked up 82000 klms and is generally in great condition

I've noticed that the CEL will reliably come on within 2klm of a cold start, indicating that the warming up process can cause this error.

Also, the fault can be reliably induced by a prolonged (more than 7 - 10 secs) downhill run. In other words, throttle closed and high vacuum situation in the intake.

Has ANYBODY had the same symptoms as above and are there any other components that could be causing this.

Thanks for any help you can give!

Rick

I read the forums here very often. There is a chance that i have missed this topic before, but i did look first. I have had more problems than worth listing with my xg, but thats neither here nor there. Right now i have a slight miss which i am putting on the back burner and hoping its the spark plugs. The real problems lies with the fact that my alternator went out about 3 months ago and right after i replaced it the lights started to pulse. This really doesn't make sense to me. I then had a problem with low oil pressure and had to remove and replace my oil pressure switch. When i got the old one off i saw that part of the wire had been rubbed through and i figured it was shorting out and possibly causing this. Nope. replaced and still had the problem. I have had the alternator check by two shops (one being a certified hyundai dealer) and they say its fine. Any help would be great. It still runs fine but i am worried it could start wreaking havoc on my electrical system.
Kris

hi all

these are the codes that come up

p0715: input/turbine speed sensor malfunction
p1191: ETS limp home valve on(i looked this definition up online as report stated "manufacturer specific code")
P0306: misfire detected (cylinder 6)
p1159: variable induction system(i looked this definition up online as report stated "manufacturer specific code")
p1193: ETS limp home-low rpm(i looked this definition up online as report stated "manufacturer specific code")


the car will drive fine at times but sometimes ill b driving and my car will jolt suddenly and the rpm will suddenly go up.
then once i come to a stop the car wont accelerate, well i does but itll accelerate very slowly with no power till it gets up to about 30 mph.
it apparantly gets stuck in third gear and wont go down nor up. so what i do is manually bring it down to second as it wont go to first and then once it has
gained speed ill bring it back to third. i dont kno what to do as this problem isnt persistent. furthermore sometimes the cel will actually turn off and
the car will run perfectly. any help will surely b apreciated.

How do you remove the front speakers and or grilles?

So my XG350 is about to turn over 160,000. Ive had the car for about 3 and a half years now. when i bought it, it had 70,000. As of about two months ago the only problems ive had with it are the passenger-side CV joint and the power steering pressure hose. Currently, im looking at the routine replacement of the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, and the other belts. I found a complete timing belt kit for right under $400, then labor at about another $400. also, my rack and pinion crapped out on me. so with that and a new PS pump, im looking at another $300-$400 in parts. I can handle that job myself so thatll save me a lil bit of cash. but i am worried about the high milage on the engine and if it would be worth it to drop all that money into it. Does anyone know what the extent of the life is on the 3.5L V6? Any idea on how long the engine will go for? Are the problems going to progressively get worse and more frequent?

Any insight will be greatly appreciated.

Hi ALL,

Glad to know this kind of forum exist.

Planning to get grandeur XG after saw many convincing comments in this forum.

I'm currently working in Korea but will go back to Malaysia my country in 6 mths. Surprised that in Malaysia also got second hand grandeur xg (less than 5 units).

My concern as below:

i. Hope that this car worth to buy.
ii. Which of below is the best choice:
a. grandeur xg, year 2000, 120000km, 3000 cc
b. grandeur xg, year 2001, 90000km, 2500 cc
c. grandeur xg, year 2004, 80000km, 3000 cc
d. grandeur xg, year 2004, 80000km, 2500 cc

iii. As this car available few units in my country, hope that you could suggest which consumable spares and parts which I should bring back from Korea. Afraid that the spares and few parts can't be found in Malaysia.

Appreciate any opinion.

Thanks a lot for your attention.

thanks for looking.

Thought I would share my engine removal process for the xg, the goods and the bads. This is my third transverse mounted engine I've pulled, so I've been through paces enough to know what to do, they all had there in's and out's, and the xg is no different. The pull is fairly straight forward, with a few P.I.A steps.

Read through first!

Tools I used:
-Eye protection, dust mask, and mechanics gloves
-Ball joint popper (do not use a fork style, they damage the boots and joints), autozone has loaners if you need one
-25" HF breaker bar
-1/4 electric impact
-1/2 impact
-Air hammer
-Pry bar
-Engine hoist and leveler
-3/8 and 1/2"Metric sockets (shallow and deep)
-CV axle popper (rented one at Autozone)
-Jack and stands
*This can be completed with hand tools, no impacts are needed*

The hma service has some extra steps and quite a few steps missing
What you don't need to do:
-Disconnect the steering column universal
-There is no special tool needed for the fuel lines, two 10mm bolts hold the lines to the rails

Steps I took
-Bleed the fuel lines
--Disconnected the fuel pump connector under the rear seat, started the car until it died and cranked it a few more times
-Drain coolant, motor oil, and transmission fluid
-Remove radiator fans and radiator
--Use wire ties to hold the condenser as far forward as possible
-Unbolt the A/C compressor (4 12mm bolts), leave all the lines connected
--Let it lay on the sub-frame
-Disconnect the lower/smaller line on the PS reservoir, and unbolt the reservoir (use a small container to catch the fluid and plug the line)
-Disconnect the fuel feed and return
--Cover the line connections with a rag when you pull them
-Disconnect the engine and transmission connections, trace all the connections first, only disconnect those required for removal
--Pop the small wire forward on the security connections, be prepared to catch it, and pull the connector free
*Optional* -Remove the intake manifold, this makes removing the engine easier, but is not necessary
-Remove the heater core lines from the engine
--Have a pan under the car to catch the fluid, and plug the lines
-Pop the caps off the rims, and break the axle castle nuts (32mm) and lug nuts loose
-Jack up the car and securely support it with jack stands
-Remove the wheels
-Remove the brake calipers
--Zip tie them to the upper control arm
-Remove the caliper brackets, rotors, pop the steering tie rods, the two lower ball joint bolts, carefully swing the spindle out and press the axle through
*The axle may be stuck, use a center punch on the recessed portion of the axle to knock it through, do not use hit the end of the axle with a hammer, because it can mushroom out (an axle press can be rented from AZ if needed)
-Remove the drivers side shock
-Remove the axles
--Use the CV puller on the drivers side, the AZ one works, but only the tips grab the back of the axle. This may take quite a few times to hammer it out
--Remove the two bolts holding the axle carrier and slide the passenger side axle out
-Remove the 24mm banjo bolt from the power steering pump
--This is accessed through the passenger side wheel well

Go eat some lunch and chill for a few

-Disconnect the O2 sensors and remove the heat shields from from exh. manifold and down pipe
-Remove the downpipe to manifold studs on the front and back
-Remove the starter
--Remove the bolts from the starter so you can gain access to the wiring, then stand on your head, cross your legs, and finagle the starter out

Back up top

-Double, triple, quadruple, check to make sure all the electrical connections are disconnecter
-Unbolt the front and back roller mounts
--Remove the 14mm bolt on each, and remove the subframe mount on the front one (two 14mm bolts)
-Hook up the engine hoist and raise the boom until the chains see some tension
--Hook it up so that the transaxle hangs down
-Remove the passenger side 17mm engine mount bolt
-Remove the drivers side 17mm bolt from the engine mount
-Allow the trans to hang down and remove the drivers side mount on the engine (2 17mm bolts, 1 17mm nut)

Now the fun starts

-Take a deeeeep breath and give the hoist a pump, check for anything hangin, pump, check, repeat and rinse
--The engine will have to be shifted to the front of the car to clear the back roller mount before it can be lifted
-Take your time and the engine/trans will come out with out any issues
-Stand back, admire the messy engine bay that needs to cleaned
-Go drink a beer and relax

I wrote this from memory, all the critical steps should be there, but follow it at your own risk, as I am not responsible for any damage. I am also not responsible for any discomfort to your taste buds from consuming cheap beer!

The 60K timing replacement was done (by certified mechanics) on my XG , approx a week ago .
I statrted the car up later and severe noise and vibration resulted.
I had it towed to Hyundai and they indicated the belt had been left loose, and therefor this is not a warranty item
Towed back to garage that had done the work and they verified that the belt was loose and timing on one head had slipped.
They say it is Hyundai fault as the (oil driven tensioner had failed ?)
Where does this leave me?
I removed the car from their facility,as they clearly lack the equiptment to correct this.

What is the right repair for all of this ??


Thanks

2002 XG350 brakes do not have the power assist when it is cold outside. Summers are no problem but when winter rolls around, the engine has to heat up before the power assist kicks in. Until the power assist kicks in, it's like driving a car without power brakes. Any suggestions on what to look for?
Many thanks.
silentshark

My car has been rough the last few weeks, previously had the code for EGR flow insufficient,- as well as P0303 cylinder 3 misfire so one by one I replaced everything from the switch to the EGR valve itself along with the pipe the EGR valve screws on to.

Car ran well for a couple of days, not perfect, but much better. Today, I literally limped home. On the way, I stopped at autozone and read the code, it was P0303 - again....and the car was backfiring and really running pathetically.

I've had a car before that had a bad cylinder and it ran similiarly.

I bought an ignition coil for that cylinder to replace tomorrow - other than that: does anyone have any ideas?
*i've already replaced the sparkplugs & checked the wires. and timing belt was replaced so long ago that I highly doubt it has anything to do with it.

I should mention, it's an '01 XG300
Thanks,
mike

All of the following events started within the past week. I have noticed a burnt pizza crust/ toast smell in the car after running the heat on high while I commute to work. I have not noticed any problems with the operation of the car, nor have I noticed any other burning smell. I have been in the unfortunate position of smelling the variety of smells that can come from a car with problems, but this is a first for me? Any assistance is appreciated.

Hi can anyone help me locate the oil filter on my Granduer limited 3.5?

I have a 3ltr Grandeur XG, First registered Jan. 2000 and done 138000km.
For some cosiderable time now I have had an intermittent fault whereby my TC and ABS warning lights come on simultaneously and remain on until I switch off the ignition. When I switch on again the fault is gone and may not return for several days. Though it is becoming more frequent of late.
Today I was able to call in to my local Hyundai Service Bay with the warning lights on and the diagnostics showed:
C1200 Front left speed sensor, open or short circuit
C1203 Front Right speed sensor, open or short circuit
C2402 Motor Pump
C1611 CAN Timeout EMS

The local technician says this looks like an ECM ( Electronic Control Module) problem. Replacement part costs about $2000 and may not fix the problem! The car is in good condition, no rust, runs beautifully and I love it; but it is 10 years old and the current trade in value is just $3000.
What is your best advice?

Happy holidays!

Is Your coolant temperature level aslo between two dots when engine is warm?
If termostat is failed does the coolant temp. gough will show different values?
What is thermistor and what is its function in the heating system.


The problem is that the car seems to get warm very slowly and
when i drive fast and long trips in winter cold the only way to keep interior warm is to put it to 32C and on full blower speed.
Or may it be that xg simply isnt very strong in cold winter conditions?

As far as my other car its possible to greate sauna inside while its freezing outside, so I would like to do something with the heating preformance.

Tnx,
Mihkel

my XG has 160K on it. Of that i put about 90K. Im about to replace the spark plugs and the plug wire. With the high mileage, should i replace the ignition coil too? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

how easy or hard is it to change the spark plugs on the xg30 its about that time they nead doing any help welcome

I have done some reading here about my issues and I am still not certain what my possible solution would be. Anyway, here are my codes and symptoms:
The vehicle will rev extremely high for no reason when driving and it does this once a week for the past 4 weeks. It goes away once the vehicle is shut off and sits for a while.
This morning for the first time it would not start, the battery died and it sounded like it was an electronic issue. I jumped it and it started and revs fine and sounds good once you get going. I went to the local auto parts store & had them pull the codes. Their meaning for code #'s is a lot different then what people here(who seem to be more exact & correct) have said. Here are the codes, please help me correct the meanings if they are not correct:

P0171- Mass Air Flow sensor dirty/faulty
P0174- ETS System Closed/Stuck#2
P0715- Transmission Speed Sensor/Circuit Malfunction
P1110- ETS System Stuck Open
P1191- ETS Limp Home valve on

After they cleared all codes I drove home and everything seemed okay, but I know otherwise!!
Could someone point me in the right direction and where to start to correct these problems, without spending to much $$.
Thank you in advance for any help you might be able to provide me!!

In my efforts to figure out why my car has started to run like POO, one TSB on hmaservice suggests the CAS may be a cause for inspection.

Can anyone tell me where this is on my '01 XG300?

Thanks,
mike

Yeah, once was the day you just took out a couple of screws and changed the bulb.....

OK, The driving/fog light bulb is out on the drivers side, I have the replacement bulb but I opened the hood and well I even see to the bottom of the bumper... LOL

Maybe if I can get under it , I duuno but thought I would check here first before spending a lot of time trying to find how to do it...


It sure looks straight forward. bulb with wire and electric tab on the end....

Thanks for any help with what should be a simple task....

I just bought a 2002 XG350 that was purchased new in South Dakota according to the dealer label. I live in Arkansas. Is there any chance Hyundai will take care of the subframe issue if I dont live in a rusty state, but got the car from one? I have not seen the car in person, just pics. It was pretty cheap, but if the subframe is rusty, I am hoping they make good.

Hello - I am a new kid on the block. I own a 2007 Grandeur which has developed a smelly washer bottle. I have experienced tis sort of thing before with a 2.7 V6 Coupe. My dealer (brilliant, by the way) could do nothing but change the washer bottle (after several mechanics had passed out due to the smell!!).
Has anyone else experienced this problem.....and what is likely to be the cause?????

the other day had the traction control and the abs light come on as i was driveing after doing shome shoping startred the car and the lights whent of as they should do next day did the same but was ok after restarting the car ok now and not happened since any ideres i still have engine check light on thats bin on for a long time found if i disconect the battery it stays of for a few hundred miles then comes on again

Hey guys, new xg350l owner here, 2002 silver w/ 94k miles, and the car needs new tires.

I'm thinking about 225/55r16, since the 205/60's seem like donuts to me. I was wondering how well they fit, I plan on using the stock wheels and I am looking at general UHP tires for all season use in Missouri. I know the tires are technically kind of in between all-season and summer only, but that's OK because we don't get much snow here in Saint Louis, and I have a decent amount of snow experience. Other people seem to run these tires in snow and get along just fine.

Couple of questions:

1. How well do you guys think that tire would fit on the stock wheel? Any bending issues?

2. One guy complained about rubbing on 225/55r16, yet I see guys running 245's on 18", what's up with that?

3. Overall, is this a good idea? I don't mind if the ride is rough, but I don't want to create any safety concerns, and I don't want the tires wear out prematurely

Thanks everyone

dear friends

yesterday i dignosed my car in hyundai service center as my car giving abs light on frequentely.
they said that my abs pump is not working and it will cost me 2750 aus dollers to put new part.
so i just want to know is there any way to repair this pump. as this money i too much or is it really require to repair this pump. as i have normal break system.

thanks in advance

I havw a 2001 XG300 and it bogs down and backfires. No Acceleration.. Idles perfect but as soon as you hit the gas pedal, it backfires through the air filter housing. Tune Up was done. Tried grounding sensors still same.

Looking for step by step & maybe some pics to remove intake manifold for plug/wire replacement. It's due. Previous owner replaced at 60,000, now at 148,000
Like a lot of others, money is tight & I just paid $850 for timming belt, syrpintine & ac belt, tensioner, water pump.

Did a lot of searching on internet but didn't find much info. Even this forum only found thst it takes some time 3-4 hrs.

Any help would be appreciated, or else I'll have to go to the hip and pay the piper. (**** piper lives better than me)

I've had this car (2001 XG since new)

A/C started misbehaving about a year, and we just lived with it.

All via a professional mechanic donig the work, he's replaced the compressor (leaking oil through front seal) and the expansion valve and dryer.

Purged and cleaned the lines as recommended, all the hard lines and condenser/evaporator flow air with no issue.

reconnect everything, purge (vacuum) and recharge and it works for about 1/2 a day.

then as soon as the A/C is engaged, the low side drops to vacuum and compresssor runs continuously til it dumps via high pressure relief valve.

rinse and repeat.

we even thought it may have been a hose on the hard lines collapsing.

I gotta get a refund from this guy cause he can't fix. It's been weeks now he's had my car.

I've studied books, alldata, read all I can, and a few folks point at expansion valve, but how many times can you replace and vac and recharge before you give up?

any advice for this reproducable condition will be greatly appreciated.

Applies to 2001 XG 300.

Using BOSCH 15730 ($60 at Pepboys) universal O2 sensor for Precat. no comments about price, I don't care what YOU got it for.

disconnect the 02 plug, the socket slides off the connector towards the firewall. Then slide the connector also towards the firewall off the bracket.

I had a incredibly thick walled O2 Sensor Socket that would not fit in the hole of the heat shield. Please see if your O2 sensor socket fits before continuing below. if it fits, remove the sensor.

otherwise remove the heatsink below:

Use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts that hold the front left fan, disconnect socket and remove fan assembly.

use a 12mm socket to remove the bolt for the oil dipstick, and the three bolts for the heat shield.

flex the dipstick a little forward and work the heatshield out of the way.


NOW: follow the directions in the box for the length. slide the heatshielding tube on before you assemble the wires. I soldered mine, rather than use the adapter. In the 2001 XG 3000 case, the wire colors matched.

reinstall, and done.

it's been about 3 months of daily driving and no issues. I do not have any new software patches on my computer, so I don't need the bullshittanium version of the newest O2 sensor that others talk about. use what works and saves you money.

Does any one know which protocol do we need to communicate with the PCM of normal XG's through OBDII. I heard it is ISO 9141-2. Bought a USB OBDII with FTDI chip with supporting protocols ISO9141-2 / KWP-1281 / KWP-2000 / K/L Transitmodus / KK/L Transitmodus (Picture attached). Trying to connect to PCM but no communication.

I seem have two connectors under the steering. See my attached picture.

I would appreciate if someone could help me to tell what is the right OBDII protocol. Do I need a special connector? Do I have the OBDII?

My XG is registered in 1999 and is for swiss market.

Appreciate your help.

Hi, I just bought a 01 XG300 with 57k miles on it. The car is in excellent condition but I've come across two problems since I've had it.

1. The car seems to stall randomly. However, it seems to be less of a stall and more like the vehicle was just turned off. No CEL turns on and there is no problem restarting the car and it runs great until it turns itself off once again. It happens maybe 2-3 times a week so like I said it is very random. I've had it happen in park, drive and reverse.

2. The cruise control is very intermittent. It seemed to work fine when I first got the car but now it rarely turns on. I say rarely because occasionally it will turn on and work for awhile then turn off. I've checked the switch and fuse hoping it was a simple fix but no luck, both are in working condition (fuse has continuity and switch shows voltage at the proper wires when toggled).

I'm wondering if the two problems might be related. From hmaservice.com I know the cruise control feeds into the ETS. Can the ETS shut down the vehicle as I described above or should I look for something else?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

hello all i got a bit of a problem and dont know where to check as you all remember i changed my fuel filter a couple weeks ago. Now my gas milage is still bad it does about 200 miles on fill horrible. Now my car is making a noise like when the injectors are clogged. Its mostly happens when i come to a stop from light to light and some times when im on the highway it will bogg for a sec then keep going any ideas thanks in advance !!!

I am new in this forum. I just bought new xg30 1999 with 62000 KM. I am having following problems,

When I turn AC on in Neutral or Parking, RPM are fine but as I shift Drive or Reverse then engine starts shaking and RPM dance between 400 to 900 and it seems like engine will turn off. But if I again shift to Neutral or Parking it will come again to normal.

Miss fire happens most of the time when I drive from stop and even at higher speed. It seems like I can not even get high RPM properly putting paddle downwards and also engine has lack of power. But some times it is just normal and drive smoothly. (AC problem exists)

Misfire also happens above 3000 rpm. Its kind of like cutting fuel supply to engine.

Check Engine Light is not on.

I will appreciate help.

Thanks

Hello all,

I have an 05 XG350. When I push the brakes, my Stop/Tail light failure warning light on the dash comes on. It goes off when I release the brake pedal. I checked all the lights and I do not see any burned out. Could there be another issue? Maybe a bad censor?

Thanks

I just installed some LED tailights and signals on the XG. The lights look nice, the light looks rich, although i need load resistors to get rid of the hyper flashing and the broken light indicator. What would be the best areas to install the load resistors in the trunk and in the engine compartment to make these lights work properly?

Hyundai Genuine part number request can be post here for the following models.

Hyundai XG30 (2.5L, 3.0L, 3.5L)

It can be helpful to order through internet if you do not know the genuine part number to match.

Sheraz

I was reading on http://www.hmaservice.com/ that these ECU (Electronic Control Unit) upgrades of XG30/300 are avaiable for the following problems with TSB,

Technical Service Bulletin (Attached)

1. XG P0128/2-3 SHIFT SHOCK. (01-36-007)
2. XG 3.0 AT 3-4 SHIFT SHUDDER. ( 02-40-004)
3. XG 300 4-5 SHUDDER & REAR O2 SENSOR. (04-40-004)
4. XG 300 MORNING SICKNESS(FLORIDA). (03-36-013)
5. XG 300/350 REAR O2 SENSOR.

Does any body have ECU upgraded with one of these at local Hyundai dealer? What is the proceeder? Are these recall from Hyundai as being know common problems with XG's ?

Thanks

Sheraz

Front seat stop working.... Doesnt move forward or back, or any other position.... Check the fuse under the dash. Took out the Seat and check the power wire and it has Power... Dont know if its the Seat Switch or that IMS unit thats under the Seat..... I called the Dealer they state the Motors start at $250 up. and the Switch start at $50... Is there other replacements from other models i can interchange...

dear friends
i have a weard problem from last couple of days.
if i park my car in hot weather outside it doesnt start. but when i come back to my car in the evening every thing is normal strat in one attempt.
my car in grandeur 2000 3.0
thanks in advance
omkar

This is probably normal as with age, but has anyone noticed any dash backlights burning out?? so far my shifttronic lights + and - are out, Dimmer switch lights are out, trip computer backlight buttons, and half the climate control console lights are out. I was thinking of going to ebay and getting replacements or has anyone taken apart any of these items to replace the bulbs maybe with LEDs??