I'm replacing the wheel bearing on my 02 XG350. I am at the point where I've removed the driveshaft nut but I can't get the driveshaft disconnected from the axle hub.

The Hyundai on-line manual is unclear exactly how this is done. They simply tell you to use a plastic hammer but are not specific on what to hit. I think they want me to hit the end of the drive shaft. I tried that with no success.

Right now I have a wheel puller attached to the axle hub pushing against the driveshaft. I have also heated it up. Still no joy. I think this is correct but I am reluctant to really crank on it.

Is this the correct proceedure?

Any suggestions/help are greatly appreciated.

02 xg 350 wont rev over 3 grand, just bogs hase a check engine light on with code p01614 ets module malfunction. any common issues? any ideas?

A MECHANIC CHECK MY CAR AND THERE IS A B 1378 CODE AND HE TOLD ME THAT IS MITCHELL SYSTEM IS ENABLE FOR THIS CODE THE AIR BAG LAMP IS ON AND I'M INSECURE
TANKS

Did I ruin the driver side wiper motor drive gear?

Driving home from a hot location 100ºf, I turned on the wipers to 'wash' the windshield. The wiper (Costco) blades have a soft silicone edge. The passenger wiper operated as normal. The driver side did not budge. Pulling over, I found the silicone edge had literally glued itself to the windshield in it's home position! After carefully 'peeling' the blade off the window, it would not operate in tandem with it's mate. It kept trying to go too far left (off the windshield), then it got tangled with the passenger wiper.

1st September , 2010, Apple gives us another big surprise after iPhone 4. iPod Touch 4, iPod nano and iPod Shuffle are really nice and make people to have them all.

iPod Touch 4:



Size and weight
Height: 4.4 inches (111.0 mm)
Width: 2.3 inches (58.9 mm)
Depth: 0.28 inch (7.2 mm)
Weight: 3.56 ounces (101 grams)

Display
3.5-inch (diagonal) widescreen
Multi-Touch display
960-by-640-pixel resolution at 326 pixels per inch

Audio
Frequency response: 20Hz to 20,000Hz
Audio formats supported: AAC (8 to 320 Kbps), Protected AAC (from iTunes Store), HE-AAC, MP3 (8 to 320 Kbps), MP3 VBR, Audible (formats 2, 3, 4, Audible Enhanced Audio, AAX, and AAX+), Apple Lossless, AIFF, and WAV
User-configurable maximum volume limit

TV and video
H.264 video up to 720p, 30 frames per second, Main Profile level 3.1 with AAC-LC audio up to 160 Kbps, 48kHz, stereo audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats
MPEG-4 video, up to 2.5 Mbps, 640 by 480 pixels, 30 frames per second, Simple Profile with AAC-LC audio up to 160 Kbps per channel, 48kHz, stereo audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats
Motion JPEG (M-JPEG) up to 35 Mbps, 1280 by 720 pixels, 30 frames per second, audio in ulaw, PCM stereo audio in .avi file format
Support for 1024 by 768 pixels with Dock Connector to VGA Adapter; 576p and 480p with Apple Component AV Cable; 576i and 480i with Apple Composite AV Cable (cables sold separately)

Battery and power
Built-in rechargeable lithium-ion battery
Playback time
Music playback time: Up to 40 hours when fully charged
Video playback time: Up to 7 hours when fully charged

iPod Nano



Size and weight
Height: 1.48 inches (37.5 mm)
Width: 1.61 inches (40.9 mm)
Depth: 0.35 inch (8.78 mm)
including clip
Weight: 0.74 ounce (21.1 grams)1
Volume: 0.614 cu inch (10,056 cu mm)
including clip

Display
1.54-inch (diagonal) color TFT display
240-by-240-pixel resolution
220 pixels per inch

Battery and power
Built-in rechargeable lithium-ion battery
Up to 24 hours of music playback when fully charged
Charging via USB to computer system or power adapter (sold separately)
Fast-charge time: about 1.5 hours (charges up to 80% of battery capacity)
Full-charge time: about 3 hours

iPod Shuffle



Size and weight
Height: 1.14 inches (29.0 mm)
Width: 1.24 inch (31.6 mm)
Depth: 0.34 inch (8.7 mm) including clip
True volume: 0.35 cu. inch (5668 cu. mm) including clip
Weight: 0.44 ounce (12.5 grams)

Audio
Skip-free playback
Frequency response: 20Hz to 20,000Hz
AAC (8 to 320 Kbps), Protected AAC (from iTunes Store), MP3 (8 to 320 Kbps), MP3 VBR, Audible (formats 2, 3, 4, Audible Enhanced Audio, AAX, and AAX+), Apple Lossless, AIFF, and WAV

Battery and power
Up to 15 hours of audio playback
80% charged in 2 hours; fully charged in about 3 hours
Built-in rechargeable lithium-ion battery
Charging via USB to computer system or power adapter (sold separately)

What makes me surprise most is that the new iPod nano has a multi-touch screen. The 2010 iPod Nano is smaller and squarer than ever. Apple took off the click wheel and made it touch-based. Like the Touch, it now has an accelerometer and runs the new mobile operating system. You can watch videos and movies on it. If you have a DVD to iPod converter, you can even watch your DVD movies on it. About iPod touch 4, featured here with an all-new case from iLuv, the 2010 Touch shows off its HD video-recording rear camera. The player offers 40 hours of battery for music and will come in three capacities: 8GB for $229, 32GB for $299, and 64GB for $399. And the last iPod shuffle, they bring back the buttons and square design and its even smaller than before.

is this the auto tensioner that i have to replace got the water pump today getting belt and tensioner next week and is that all i need to replace

I am trying to get a state inspection sticker for my XG300. The battery cable was disconnected because the car was in storage for a while. After reconnecting the cable, I went for an inspection, but two systems showed as incomplete. At the mechanic's suggestion, I drove the car for over 150 miles. At the inspection site, the car computer still indicates that the catalyst and the fuel evap system are still not ready. The mechanics had told me to drive the car for at least 65 miles to reset the computer. The computer is still not reset after driving twice as far. Could the problem be a bad seal on the gas cap? The mechanics told me that the cap appeared to be ok. Thank you for any help.

Can someone tell me what would fry all 3 Ignition Coils in a xg350 L? Thanks

Hi
So I'm hoping someone can help me out. On my 2002 xg350 all my windows stopped working. plus the power seat but only on the drivers side.This all happened suddenly at the same time. Everything else moon roof mirrors locks ect seems to be working fine. Does anyone know of a fix.
Thanks
Adam

While driving through a serious torrential rainstorm last night (this IS Florida, after all), I started noticing a hot/melting rubber/burning smell, and the BATT and BRAKE lights came on whenever the A/C compressor was engaged. I figured that the belt was slipping.

Today, I go check and the belt seems tight, but the rubber on the crank pulley looked ... in dunno, it looked funny. Like there was a darker line around near the outer pulley. I guessed that it might have slipped. I marked the crank pulley and cranked it up, and with the A/C on, I could see it slipping. So yep, the crank pulley is toast.

At the moment, the bank account is empty (still trying to find a job - anyone in central Florida need an IT manager?), so I can't get a replacement for a while.

Does anyone have any experience with re-bonding these? Is the 3.0L engine internally balanced or is it externally balanced with this d@mn pulley? I'd like to know what options I have, however crazy.

Thanks.

2005 XG350
About 6 weeks ago the AC started blowing ambient temperature. A few weeks ago I got around to adding Freon (with dye) from a kit w/ a cheapy pressure gauge. A few days later, warm air again. I never was able to see any of the neon yellow dye leaking (but it is VERY hard to see all the lines in the close quarters!). Inspecting for leaks yesterday before recharging again, I noticed what I then assumed to be coolant, but now believe was Freon, dripping from the crossmember under the radiator on the passenger side. I pressure washed the areas, then refilled the AC low pressure side. Upon removing the filling hose, I noticed bubbles coming from the Shrader valve (where you add the Freon) itself! I had to make a tool to allow me to tighten the Shrader valve. I was only able to turn it about 1/16th of a turn. This felt tighter than this 'should' need to be, but I needed to stop the bubbles. For the heck of it, I decided to remove the cap from the high pressure side to inspect it (I had never removed that cap before). It had bubbles of green liquid too! I tightend this valve the same amount and put soapy water in valve to check if it still leaked. No more bubbles. I soaked out soapy water carefully with Q-tips to be sure it never could make it's way into the A/C system if refilled or serviced in the future.

Hopefully, I found and solved my leak problem. Very strange to have the leak develop now. We have had this car since 2006 and the A/C has always worked great.

PS. I'll certainly report back if the Freon leaks out again. And if it does not, I'll try to remember to report back on that too.

i have bean trying to get hold of a gates cam belt no one seams to stock them im in rochester can anyone help

Hello everyone,

First of all, thank you for all your help when it comes to solving issues on the XG300. I had three major fixes done to my car and now it rides like a new car.
Currently I am in the process of turning my XG300 into my own custom XG300LSX model(Luxury Sedan Xtreme Edition). I know that doesn't sound nice rolling off your tongue but that is what I'm calling my project.

There are major things I am looking into doing with this car. Below I will post them and what they consist of in work and cost.

1. Carputer, including a laptop base, Flux Media CENTRAFUSE as the UI.
2. Sounds system including 2 600 WATT Amps, Pioneer Speakers and Tweeters.
3. Molded Rear window spoiler
4. Turn Signals in Side Mirrors, ALL LED and custom made.
5. Spoiler from Ixion, including XG 2004-2005 Tail lights and trunk.


CARPUTER
============================================
Current Cost: $150
All my Carputer logs will be put here, I am currently working with a DELL Inspiron 1520 Base w/ a Core 2 Duo Processor.
Here are the current specifications on the computer:

Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo 1.5 GHz Processor
RAM: 2GB of Memory Ram
HDD: 80GB HDD at 5200 RPM
Interface: Flux Media Centrafuse 3.0

I have been working on Centrafuse on getting it optimized for this system. Centrafuse is running smoothly although it does seem to lag on certain areas when playing music and using the GPS Navigation. This is probably due to the heavy graphics on centrafuse. I will try to lower them and see how it goes.

I have also decided to remove the Centrafuse logo from the middle of the interface and replace with with something a little bit more custom. Here are before and after pictures of the modification:

Before:


After:


Stay Tune for more updates!!!

Hi
I am new on this forum but I would like to ask if anyone else had any transmission oil leak problems and if yes what is the answer to fix it?
It is for a Hyundai XG30 from 2001 (about 68.000 miles)
Any answer would be very much appreciated.
Thank you

i am going to get my timing belt done have bean quoted 350 pounds 270 pounds and 450 pounds last quot was a main dealer the quotes all include parts the belt is about 75 pounds witch quot do you think sounds ok

Hi everyone. When my XG30 is just moving off from cold, it backfires and splutters for a few minutes. After a minute or two the Check Engine Light flashes but never comes on steady. I take it easy on the throttle for a while till it warms up and the light stops flashing. After that there are no problems. It only happens for 2 or 3 minutes when the engine is cold. Any ideas? Thank you. Seamus.

Does anybody know where the crank sensor is on a 2003 xg350?

I just got a 2002 XG350, and it was having an intermittant P0305 code (misfire cylinder #5), and thus rough idle and LIMP home P1191/1193. I then cleared the codes, and for the past two weeks, it would intermittanly give the same codes.

She has 90K miles, and since there is no record of a tune-up, I decided to "set a base-line" and replace all spark plugs, spark-plug wires, coil-boots (not the coils), and the air filter, and swapped the #1/2 and #5/6 coils to see if the P0305 moves to another cylinder.

She started up fine, and was driving great (smooth, good power, etc.) for about 20-minutes.

When she was shut-down for about 10-minutes, I restarted, and instead of the RPM needle automaticlly going past 1K, it went into a rough idle, and eventually threw a Check Engine Light (CEL), but instead of a P0305, it is now P0350 (Ignition coil primary/secondary circuit malfunction). I checked all connectors.

After running rough for about 3-minutes, she was running smooth as silk again.

Any ideas ?

Should I just replace all three coil-packs ?

Lastly, the dealer say there is NO fuel-filter to be replaced, as it is part of the pump.
However, I read there is a fuel-filter behind the right-rear wheel. What's the real deal here ?

Thanks in advance!

2002 XG350 90K miles

The owners manual called for a Champion spark-plug, and I noticed the parts house gave me copper-core NGK's, not the platinums or Iridiums ?

Could this contribute to a DTC P0350 ?

If not, is it OK to run the copper-core NGK's, or should I R&R to NGK plantiums or Iridiums ($2-cheaper!) ?

Thanks in advance.

Hi

I’m new here at this forum. I have a XG-30 from 2002. Have to start to apologize if my English isn’t tat good but hope you understand anyway. I live in Sweden and don’t talk English that much.
My car has been running great until the past few days. The brake (the signal that light up when using the parking brake) and battery warning lights up sometimes and they stay for a whale then they start to flash or just stop shining. Sometimes I can be driving for an hour before it start and next time it takes not more than 30 seconds.
I also have some notice from the AC, can that be related?

I’m going to my brother’s wedding this weekend and need the car. It’s about 3,5 hour drive. Is it safe to use my XG-30 or should I use my Jetta instead?

Changing plugs on a 2004 XG. After removing the intake a piece of curved plastic fell out of it.I took the intake apart and for every cylinder there is a channel and butterfly. The curved plastic piece directs airflow. I assume this might have to do with cold weather starting (choke) but not sure.I cant seem to find what the part is called and cannot find it on a web search. Nearest dealer is 65miles away so its not easy to talk to the dealer.If anyone knows what I am describing where can I get one. Looked on hmaservice but couldnt see the parts.

I pulled the yellow connector under the driver seat and sprayed with contact cleaner and reconnected.
It was a BIG pain, but I pulled the air bag control module from deep under the center console, pulled the main connector and sprayed both halves with contact cleaner and reconnected/installed.

Light is still on on dash. Our XG350 was vandalized a few years back where they poured margarita mixer all over the dash, so many things got gummed up. I have pulled parts out to 'ungum' over time.

I have read there is (or was) likely a short that caused the computer to turn on the light and that the system does not turn it off if an error (short) goes away. I have an aftermarket (Toptak TP-110CAN) code scanner. It does not read an error and, of course does not clear an error it cannot read. I may have to take it to a Hyundai dealer and pay ≈$60 for them to read and clear any error code that appears. Obviously, if a short (or whatever) is still present, the light would come back on and stay on.

I am just wondering IF they are able to clear the error AND THE LIGHT STAYS OFF, if I could feel confident that my air bags would work when needed.

oil light came on then a tapping noise in the motor and so i had the sump cleaned out but still no oil going into motor can anyone help?

does anyone no were i could get a hyundai grandeur 2000 manual?

Hello, Im new to these forums and have looked to see if anybody had anwsered this question.....My 2003 XG350L stalls after it reaches normal operating temp. It will start only after it cools down. Doesn't matter if Im driving it or just letting it sit. The best I can come up with is a fuel temp sensor. I can hear the fuel pump prime and it drives well until reaching normal op temp. (that doesn't take long in 85-90 degree weather I can't get codes. too poor to have it towed, sigh..... I sure hope some of you can help me! Thanks

Hi All,
My Hyundai Grandeur 2000 Model, is stalling at lights, moving , or just about anywhere. The check engine light turns on first and then the car just shuts itself off. All i have to do is wait like 30 secs, and it starts again. I have already paid for Cam shaft sensors, some Oxygen sensors, crank angle sensors and car still stalls.
Sometimes the car would run for days without problem and then some days would stall every light.
Also if I try to start the car in less then 30 secs , it does not even give that egnition on sound, I can only hear click noise. Can anyone help me if they had a similar problem
I am not a technical minded person and Hyundai service centre has given up saying that they cannot find any problem.

For the last couple weeks Ive noticed my car (hyundai XG350L) is horribly loud when it starts up, to the point that it has really become a nuisance. Also, whenever I turn the steering wheel, even if I barely turn it.. It groans really loud.. So loud that you can hear from inside the house whenever I pull out of the driveway. I put power steering fluid in the car but that only helped for a matter of days. And now when I put in more in it doesnt help at all. My poor XG350 sounds like its dying whenever I drive it. Please Please help

Just wondering if anyone has put any aftermarket chrome parts on their XG.

I found some stuff on eBay, but would like to see your photos before I go all out!

Thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hyundai-XG-...s#ht_4025wt_952

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hyundai-Gra...s#ht_4015wt_952

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hyundai-XG-...s#ht_4433wt_952

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hyundai-Gra...s#ht_5221wt_952

I have a 3ltr Grandeur XG, First registered Jan. 2000 and done 138000km.
For some cosiderable time now I have had an intermittent fault whereby my TC and ABS warning lights come on simultaneously and remain on until I switch off the ignition. When I switch on again the fault is gone and may not return for several days. Though it is becoming more frequent of late.
Today I was able to call in to my local Hyundai Service Bay with the warning lights on and the diagnostics showed:
C1200 Front left speed sensor, open or short circuit
C1203 Front Right speed sensor, open or short circuit
C2402 Motor Pump
C1611 CAN Timeout EMS

The local technician says this looks like an ECM ( Electronic Control Module) problem. Replacement part costs about $2000 and may not fix the problem! The car is in good condition, no rust, runs beautifully and I love it; but it is 10 years old and the current trade in value is just $3000.
What is your best advice?

I'm in the process of upgrading the sound system on my 2002 XG 350 L, but I can't find a place to run the amplifier's power cable through the firewall. Is there any location where I can squeeze it through a hole with the factory wiring, or am I going to have to do some drilling? I'd really like to avoid drilling through the firewall if possible.

Hi All,

I'm having some issues with my Grandeur when it hit around 90 km/h, it seems like it lacks the power to push past that speed and also shakes alittle.
Any help you can give me on what this might be will really help as i have the car at the dealership how and they are telling me it could be all sorts of this which means they are guessing and im having to pay for the new part everytime they are wrong.

Thanks in advance.

hey guys wuts up i took my xg in yesterday cause it stoped aceling and it into safe mode again. the guy yesterday told i got 7 codes forgot them ill get them soon put like i said my car fell slack with the pedal halfway down and in the morn when i start him up he fells like hes misfiring i just called the guy at the dealer and said just to change the input and output sensors and the shacking will stop and it wont fell slugish anymore i think they trying to give a fix that will bring me back in and rip me off what do u guys think?

Hi,can anyone help?,my XG30 randomly goes into limp mode,i've been told i could have a TPSensor fault and this could be causing it,does anyone know if limp mode can be disabled?,also,can anyone tell me where this part is located?(the limp mode valve/sensor),regards,Terry.

Why Doe's My Battery Go Dead In 3 to 4 Days ??
Any One Have Same Problem
Thanks
Harley03joe

Hi last week as usual i tried to start the engine, but it did not . Then i found out that there is no joules in the battery. I boosted it with my another car it started right a way.
I left it idle for 45 min. just to get the battery charged and it did.
The next day when i tried to start the car there was no power on the battery i had to boost it and idled for 45 min.s and that day it was ok.. I double check the all the lights turned off and left it for a day. the next day the same problem the engine did not start. Can you all please help me how to solve this problem.
Thanks

I have a 2002 xg350,just got it,check engine light on,and also had diagnostics done,codes come up 0350,1191,1193,any ideas

I replaced my girlfriends spark plugs. She bought NGK plugs, which I believe are correct. After replacing the front plugs I removed the intake ,carefully paying attention to what wires go where for reassembly. I replaced the rear plugs and reassembled everything ,again carefully. Once I was done I went to start the car and it turns right on but immediately shuts down. Does anyone have any idea why It is doing this? The car was in running condition before I replaced the plugs. Is there something I overlooked? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance - Mark

Well as of the 15th of July I no longer have a Grandeur it was written off in a car accident as some body ran a red light at least I was fully insured but now have to find another car it was not economical to repair with more then $9000 worth of damage. The End of a very nice car which only had 113000 klm on the speedo

Hello everyone - I am new to Hyundai ownership, and brand new to this site. I have a problem with a 2000 Hyundai XG30 that I bought a couple of months ago, and am hoping someone might be able to give me some advice, judging by your previous postings/replies. I bought the car cheap, with three fully disclosed faults.
1. The car seems to knock too loudly on the front suspension, when the car goes over road bumps/uneven surfaces, despite the factory 17" alloys and 45 profile tyres. This is annoying when the ride is otherwise so smooth.
2. Both front seats no longer heat up, which I think is probably not time or cost effective to remedy.
and,
3. The biggest problem is with the engine (as you probably guessed). The car is now almost undriveable, and has become in some respects dangerous. When I bought the car, it had a tickover/idle problem. If it hadn't been driven for 24 hours, you could start it and it would generally be fine, despite the low and slightly rough idle (500 rpm). BUT if you stopped the car at a petrol station, or at the shops, and then tried to start it again, the fun and games would start. The car idle starts to fluctuate between 300 and 1300 rpm, and then stalls completely. You cannot start the car and leave it in neutral or park, as the revs will just drop and it will stall. The only chance of keeping the car running is to immediately put it into drive or reverse, when the engine seems to resist stalling slightly better when it’s under load, although the idle is still low at about 500 rpm. Once on the move the car is better, although the engine still cuts power and jerks every few minutes or so. When braking to a stop the car now just stalls almost every time, and I can't get it to start again in neutral or park unless I give the accelerator a considerable amount of revs. Then you have to immediately engage drive and abruptly pull away. The more times I stop the car, or it stalls by itsellf, the harder it is to restart, and poorer it runs if I do manage to keep it running.

Looking online, suggestions seem to suggest problems with MAF sensor, AIT sensor, vacuum leaks, and faulty EGR valves. I know the previous owner changed the MAF sensor prior to me buying the car, but he admitted it didn't stop the revs/stalling issue, it just returned the MPG's back to the correct level.

I have spoken to various Hyundai garages, and they have never heard of an 'AIT' sensor.

I am vaguely aware of how to test for a vacuum leak (from viewing utube videos) but I don't think I will be able to keep the car ticking over at idle long enough for me to start spraying susbstances around the intake manifold.

From looking on utube, changing a faulty EGR valve looks like just replacing a hose, which obviously I could do.

Do anyone have any experience of the above, and is there any advice you could give in relation to it. I bought the car because I am hard up, and it was cheap. I can't afford to take it to Hyundai for them to mis-diagnose the problem and charge me a small fortune in the process.

Desperately hoping someone can help, and thanking you in anticipation

Kindest regards

Mark (Cruisers).

Hello Every body I'm Techatblog.com today i have a field case trouble shooting on Hyundai Granduer regarding on engine rpm up and down at the same time cut off.especially if the engine is in normal temperature after an hour of driving the problem occurs due to air leaking from EGR vacuum hose and Failure sensor malfunctioning.may be somebody need help.

Hey - I have a strange request... anyone have a blown driver's side airbag from an XG that they'd be willing to part with?

Yep - you read that right. I want one that has been blown. Thanks.

I'm putting here the current state of my '01 but not to ask for help. Not that I don't trust anyone's knowledge but mostly as an explanation to why these cars are not easy. I spend so much timing helping others on here while at the same time i've been dealing with my own troubles. I bought the car for $450 with 70k miles from original owner ( still under warranty) some big dents and heat warpage to interior.
Started off with a worn motor from lack of maintenance (but it did run for one night after doing these 4 repairs)
rusted out fuel pump from sitting for 2-3 years
alternator was done as it was the old style with big pulley
Needed a battery
bad MAF

In the past 1 1/2 weeks
-I rebuilt the block using Mitsubishi 3000 gt piston rings (yes it worked)
-Rebuilt the heads myself with new valve seals, cams seals
-Re-used some head gaskets which had 10 min of run time on them and sprayed with copper spray
After car got running.........
-it bogs when revving high and under loads, wont hold an idle after it gets really hot from driving around the block
-It's running lean so I sucked the gas tank dry as it was coming out yellow from the rust, then I scraped most of it out from the bottom of the tank and again found the fuel pump was rusting out and strainer was filthy. Put fresh 91 octane
-All this rust killed one injector, and the others had oil on the spray side from when the engine was burning oil So I swapped them all out.
-Fuel pressure was good the whole time but I swapped out the fuel pump for the one in the Accent(yes it works)
-Found and repaired 2 cut wires in the main engine harness which turned out to be ground sources for something
all in all spent 2 full days doing diagnostic checks like compression, timing, electrical pin out tests, sensor performance test
fuel pressure
-swapped in a spare PCM,APS sensor,Throttle body and re-initialized
-went as far as I could in the diagnostic process having only a generic scan tool to check sensor readings and after all this I can say it does run better now it is drivable but still bogs and eventually dies out at idle.
-I got to the point were I knew I had met my match and called my long time Hyundai friend but it's hopeless when the only codes being thrown are those for limp home valve being on.

The only thing left for me to try now is another MAF, Proper fuel pump, find someone with an XG300 so I can compar MAF voltage readings. I know the Hyundai scanner reads in .mv but my scanner reads in lb/hr so I hooked up my VOM and got a reading and it was'nt what the Hyundai scanner reads. It's reading low and doesn't change much with higher rpms which could explain why it's leaning out at higher rpm's. The old MAF does the same thing but at even a lower spec. I'm starting to believe I may have a restriction in my downstream cat as I allready check the manifold cats when engine was out. Would hate for it to be a exhaust restriction after all this but would also be glad it's fixed. So like I said i'm not asking for help just wanted to let you guys see that XG's can sometimes be very involved and why the independent mechanic does not like to work on these. If and when I figure this car out I will post my findings. As for now i'm leaving town and i'll get back to it next week.

I have been a follower of this site for a long time and used topics, but never posted. About 3 weeks ago i started my 2002 XG350L after it sat for a few days and it had a really bad miss. The whole car was shaking, so i shut it off. I started it back up and the miss went away for the most part, but then it had a really bad squeel. End of that story comes when i got the timing belt and serpentine belts replaced this past monday. Got it back late monday night, it ran great and i drove it to school the next day, no problems. Then i started it wednesday and it was acting up and i drove it for a bit but then i hit a stoplight and it started sputtering reaaaaaaly bad and then barely took off the line. So yesterday i replaced all the spark plugs and ignition wires, but its still acting up. I am tired of just throwing money into it so i thought i would get some feedback on here hopefully.

Oh i also cleaned the MAF sensor today.

I have a '04 Xg350 and the water pump recently went out in it and left me sit so I got it to the mechanics and he replaced the water pump the timing belt and a couple other belts he said was worn this was like 1 week ago he also said the timing was off he said he would fix the timing with everything else. So we have had the car and have been running it for about a week with no problems except for last night my husband took it to work it was fine running it there but I get a call and he said there is something really wrong with the car he starts it and over the phone I can hear a loud I can only explain it as a knocking/tapping but tapping like it is out of oil tapping x30 that is how loud it is so we have had it towed to the same mechanic today but my question is could it be the timing because we really don't want to pay for something that might not have been our fault we just payed $633 for the other work it showed no problem and we don't understand how if it is a rocker or something why it didn't show signs of going I mean we just had it in the garage they should have seen something the car is inoperatable right now. If anyone has any suggestions I would love to hear them

I have come across a 2005 XG350 with very low mileage. I own an Entrourage and have been extremely happy with it and Hyundai (even though it is really a Kia!). I am asking is you would buy yours again? why or why not? Another issue is it was owned by a smoker. Anybody know of a sure fire way to get rid of that smell? The dealer's attempt of pumping in "new car smell" makes it worse!

Thanks.

Hi Experts,

Thank you very much for solving my previous questions.

Now i`m having a problem with my 2003 hyundai xg-350 as the air bag warning stays on all the time on the dash borad even while i`m driving.

Can you all please help me out with this issue,

Thank you very much.

fuel tank started leaking again phoned up hyundai and was told a new tank was just over 400 pounds can anyone in the uk tell me if i can get a cheaper one from somewhere thanks

I have a 1999 hyundai Grandeur I would like to find out hard it is to get the power window Regulator out as mine has broken The window just fell down and there is nothing to keep it up so I am assuming the window regulator has broken it is the right hand rear window regulator So I have taped it to stay closed any help greatly appreciated Thanks