i have 2001 Xg 3.0
a few weeks ago...
my transmission stuck at third gear..
cant do down or up...
but if i re start the engine..
everything back to normal...

my question is...
whats wrong with that??

Hello all,

I have had my xg300 L for 2 months now.

Its 2001 with only 47000 miles on it, runs like a dream now since the Transmission has been changed,

Any way, I was looking at changing the look of the interior and wanted to make the wood trim aluminium look. Has any one done this or have any pictures of it

Also looking for a link so i can purchase

Thanks

Lee

My Grandeur has developed a fault that will not allow it to progress beyond about 3200 rpm - Consequently has difficulty in auto trans and my dealership is scratching their collective heads to come up with a solution. They have already replaced the ETS sensor, trialled a replacement "ECM" sensor that was a waste of time and are currently ringing around to try and come up with the answer. They say it is dangerous to drive in current condition. Any quick answers ?

Has anyone experienced the car accelerating on it's own when you are stepping on the brakes?

The temperature gauge doesn't work. It's always at the bottom. I want to check the sensor. But I don't know where is the sensor that controls this gauge. Who can tell me? XG300L. Thanks!

had a fuel leak it was a small rust hole in the top of the tank got some repair past did the trick anyone else had this happen with the fuel tank

I have a 2005 XG 350 and today while gassing the car I turned and hit the door with my leg and the plastic door snapped into. I've looked over the Internet and can't find it and was wondering if anyone knows where to get one besides the dealer who'll charge an arm and a leg for one. The part number on the door is 69510-39100.

Hi:
I have an xg350L (2004). The car has been stalling at low speeds, the speedometer will stop working sometimtes, my check engine light is on, and the cruise control sometimes doesnt work.

I took it to auto zone and it read with a P0500 error. It did not say if it was a wheel sensor or trans. sensor.
I have looked on webtech and tried to find the location of the speed sensor and am not having any luck.

Can anyone help me?

I can't find a repair manual for the XG, is there an alternative manual I can use? I know with other cars I've been able to use other models interchangeably (for the most part) has anyone found one to use on the XG?

I have an '01 XG300.

Thanks.

I am having power problem going up hillsI have 1999 Grandeur Timing belt has been replaced some month ago going up any major hill I am pushing to get 60klm hour out of it if I have a box trailer I am getting about 40 klm hour especially up the range it has no get up and go any ideas what may be the problem my car has done 100,000 klm so far Thanks

Hello everyone,

I finally got my engine problems fixed by replacing the Throttle Position Sensor.

Now im looking to working on the body of the car, I am looking on making the facelift modification on my car.
I want to go from having the ugly 2001 XG300 face and trunklid to getting them swapped out for the 2004-2005 Face and trunklid.
I also want to replace the tail light assembly and headlight assembly on the car. At most I think I will be spending around $600-800 on this swap.

I can easily order these parts for cheap and have them painted, but I want to know if this is possible? Can I put in a 2005 trunklid and taillight assembly to a 2001 XG? I know I will have to replace the rear bumper too and some mouldings, but thats not a big issue as I have a donor 2005 XG.

I want to do this first...

From this...
This is the exact same color I have, but I'm going to either paint it a darker maroon or completely black.


To this...


Has anyone ever attempted to do this?

2001 XG300 3.0L
Has anyone ever replaced the clutch or clutch coil on a Hyundai A/C compressor? Mine reads open, and obviously will not engage, and I'm looking at whether or not the clutch or coil can be replaced without having to break open the refrigerant lines. I looked over the coil replacement info on hmaservice, and I know it would be simple on a bench, but can it be done in-vehicle? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

I have a XG350 2003 with 64000 miles. All service and fluids done on schedule correctly. Correct transmission fluid and level. On cold mornings, the car starts right away, but makes a very noticable, deep growling sound when I engage it in drive or reverse. The sound is less/gone when the car is in neutral. After the car is warmed up/driven for ten minutes, parked, and restarted, the sound is no longer there. What could be causing the problem? Thanks in advance for any advice.

I have a 2005 XG 350 and if you need to change the windshield washer motor how do you access it. I assume you do from the wheel well. Is there a web site that gives directions? I was on a web site once that gave direction on how to remove and replace a lot of components but I've lost it.

Just bought this 2001 XG300 with 84K miles on the odometer.
I was wondering what would be "normal" fuel economy for the
car at this point in its life. My commute involves a mixed bag of city and
highway miles. Not sure what to expect. And, other than tire air pressure
and clean air filters, is there anything I can do that might positively impact
fuel economy?

I have an XG300 with 89K on it. Car runs fine, no problems, except the CEL keeps coming on.
I took it to my mechanic who I trust implicitly,and he cleared the codes.

Ran for a week (about 250 miles) then came on again

Went back to mechanic and he found three codes (P1191,P1193,P1159).

He said the "Throttle Body" needed adjusting (which he did)
and that there was something wrong with a Variable Intake
Target (which he said doesnt trip the lite).

Reset them again. Later that afternoon the lite came back on.

As I said, the car runs fine, but that little light is making me nuts.

Any suggestions. I dont want to go to a dealer if I can avoid it.

Hey guys, new xg350l owner here, 2002 silver w/ 94k miles, and the car needs new tires.

I'm thinking about 225/55r16, since the 205/60's seem like donuts to me. I was wondering how well they fit, I plan on using the stock wheels and I am looking at general UHP tires for all season use in Missouri. I know the tires are technically kind of in between all-season and summer only, but that's OK because we don't get much snow here in Saint Louis, and I have a decent amount of snow experience. Other people seem to run these tires in snow and get along just fine.

Couple of questions:

1. How well do you guys think that tire would fit on the stock wheel? Any bending issues?

2. One guy complained about rubbing on 225/55r16, yet I see guys running 245's on 18", what's up with that?

3. Overall, is this a good idea? I don't mind if the ride is rough, but I don't want to create any safety concerns, and I don't want the tires wear out prematurely

Thanks everyone

I'm putting here the current state of my '01 but not to ask for help. Not that I don't trust anyone's knowledge but mostly as an explanation to why these cars are not easy. I spend so much timing helping others on here while at the same time i've been dealing with my own troubles. I bought the car for $450 with 70k miles from original owner ( still under warranty) some big dents and heat warpage to interior.
Started off with a worn motor from lack of maintenance (but it did run for one night after doing these 4 repairs)
rusted out fuel pump from sitting for 2-3 years
alternator was done as it was the old style with big pulley
Needed a battery
bad MAF

In the past 1 1/2 weeks
-I rebuilt the block using Mitsubishi 3000 gt piston rings (yes it worked)
-Rebuilt the heads myself with new valve seals, cams seals
-Re-used some head gaskets which had 10 min of run time on them and sprayed with copper spray
After car got running.........
-it bogs when revving high and under loads, wont hold an idle after it gets really hot from driving around the block
-It's running lean so I sucked the gas tank dry as it was coming out yellow from the rust, then I scraped most of it out from the bottom of the tank and again found the fuel pump was rusting out and strainer was filthy. Put fresh 91 octane
-All this rust killed one injector, and the others had oil on the spray side from when the engine was burning oil So I swapped them all out.
-Fuel pressure was good the whole time but I swapped out the fuel pump for the one in the Accent(yes it works)
-Found and repaired 2 cut wires in the main engine harness which turned out to be ground sources for something
all in all spent 2 full days doing diagnostic checks like compression, timing, electrical pin out tests, sensor performance test
fuel pressure
-swapped in a spare PCM,APS sensor,Throttle body and re-initialized
-went as far as I could in the diagnostic process having only a generic scan tool to check sensor readings and after all this I can say it does run better now it is drivable but still bogs and eventually dies out at idle.
-I got to the point were I knew I had met my match and called my long time Hyundai friend but it's hopeless when the only codes being thrown are those for limp home valve being on.

The only thing left for me to try now is another MAF, Proper fuel pump, find someone with an XG300 so I can compar MAF voltage readings. I know the Hyundai scanner reads in .mv but my scanner reads in lb/hr so I hooked up my VOM and got a reading and it was'nt what the Hyundai scanner reads. It's reading low and doesn't change much with higher rpms which could explain why it's leaning out at higher rpm's. The old MAF does the same thing but at even a lower spec. I'm starting to believe I may have a restriction in my downstream cat as I allready check the manifold cats when engine was out. Would hate for it to be a exhaust restriction after all this but would also be glad it's fixed. So like I said i'm not asking for help just wanted to let you guys see that XG's can sometimes be very involved and why the independent mechanic does not like to work on these. If and when I figure this car out I will post my findings. As for now i'm leaving town and i'll get back to it next week.

I recently purchased an '04 XG350. Despite having over 100K miles It is in excellent condition however it has an odd problem in that when the front passenger side door is opened it locks all of the doors. Does anyone know what might be causing this and/or how to fix it?

Thanks.

Does anyone have information on any service directives related to the tensioner on the XG350

If so please advise how I acn obtain them


Thanks

Hi,

I have a 2003 Hyundai XG350 parked in my garage for the past 5 months.
When started today it started fine but i`m getting the " TUP...TUP...TUP..." from engine as i narrowed the sound, everything else seems and sounds ok.
Can anybody help me to find out what is the problem,

Thanks.

Raj.

Hi everyone, I recently purchased a Hyundai xg300L in May of 2009. After the many fixes that I have already made to the car, the battery recently gave out and I am trying to replace it. Does anyone know how to properly replace the battery for this car?

It is completely dead, so I cannot drive it to the mechanic to replace. There appears to be a cover over the battery that will not come up. Please help if possible. I am at my wits end with this car. PLEASE!!! Any help is greatly appreciated.

In my efforts to figure out why my car has started to run like POO, one TSB on hmaservice suggests the CAS may be a cause for inspection.

Can anyone tell me where this is on my '01 XG300?

Thanks,
mike

Hello all. After installing have the replacement motor (~62k) in the xg, I am greeted with the oh-so-sweet no start. I noticed some coolant and oil mingling together (leaking from the VC) when I pulled the plugs Are the 3.0's prone to blown head gaskets, and if so, should I stick with factory or aftermarket?

Thanks,
Brad

Pulled the heads off the engine today, to my surprise it wasn't too bad, had the heads off in about 3 hours. I ended up pulling the heads with the exhaust manifolds and cats still on them, a little added weight saved A LOT of time. I found quite a few issues with the motor due to what I believe, is a sloppy timing belt job.

The BAD!
-The crank angle trigger wheel was spun a bit
-Head gasket leak around cylinder 3
-The timing was off a tooth on the intake cam(I missed it on initial inspection )

The Good!!!!
-Ordered the gaskets and timing belt components from the dealer, complete with a good price
-The cylinders are in perfect shape, no scuffing or ridges
-No damage to the valves

Thanks to all for the help so far

Brad

My engine light came on and I scanned the code. It said P2127. However, my code book doesn't show this code under the generics. Felt like an evap issue but I'm not sure. Anybody know the MIL meaning?

I haven't had a chance to do a leak down test on the engine yet, but I have checked a few things using my scanner.

With the key on the scanner reads 61 degrees for the timing, does this sound normal for these engines? The TPS reads 15 percent (it is slightly open), but I figure this is how the car adjusts for warm-up enrichment and idle since it lacks an idle control valve; is this correct?

the tachometer just quit working on my GL 350, also the check engine light came on..any tips

does anybody know of any good websites or companies or stores around southern california where i can get cheap body parts for my 2001 xg300?
im looking for a hood, fenders, and headlights. thanks.

I had a codas, maybe loose gas cap, clearded the code then check engine light came on again and tachometer stoped working, not any input at all.
any information would be helpful..

I need to replace the light bulb in the courtesy / map lighs.
(The two little lights over the rear view mirror)
Does anyone have any idea of how to safely
access them(without cracking the plastic)?
I hope its somewhat less involved then the changing
@#$$5 fog light bulb was.

I just purchased a used 2001 XG300 with 84K miles on it. I have been exploring the car since I dont have the owners
manual (yet, I ordered one from eBay). One of the things I discovered was a lock on the trunk latch that, when engaged,
prevents the trunck from being opened with the key or from the release. Can some one tell me what the practical use for that
would be?

My XG 350 has CEL indicating cylinders 2 4 6 misfires

Plugs have been changed (twice) with only short improvement

Thanks for any ideas

Hi all, over the last year or so, my year 2000 Grandeur (XG300) has occasionally popped up the CEL with the following effect on the car:

1. Car still drives normally, but when stopped and in park or neutral the idle speed goes up from the normal 700 or so rpm to around 1100.

2. Strong smell from the exhaust like unburnt fuel (smells like coal/coke burning). Engine is obviously running on a VERY rich mixture.

3. If I turn the engine off and wait for 20 seconds or so I can re-start and all is back to normal with no CEL until the next time.

Just recently this has been happening more and more often to the point where I've taken it to my service center (not Hyundai, but very capable) and they have found the following codes:

P1159 Variable Intake Motor Malfunction / MAF sensor?

P0100 MAF sensor?

They replaced the MAF sensor but the problem persists.

The air cleaner is almost new and the intake manifolding etc has been tested for leaks etc.

The car has only clocked up 82000 klms and is generally in great condition

I've noticed that the CEL will reliably come on within 2klm of a cold start, indicating that the warming up process can cause this error.

Also, the fault can be reliably induced by a prolonged (more than 7 - 10 secs) downhill run. In other words, throttle closed and high vacuum situation in the intake.

Has ANYBODY had the same symptoms as above and are there any other components that could be causing this.

Thanks for any help you can give!

Rick

I read the forums here very often. There is a chance that i have missed this topic before, but i did look first. I have had more problems than worth listing with my xg, but thats neither here nor there. Right now i have a slight miss which i am putting on the back burner and hoping its the spark plugs. The real problems lies with the fact that my alternator went out about 3 months ago and right after i replaced it the lights started to pulse. This really doesn't make sense to me. I then had a problem with low oil pressure and had to remove and replace my oil pressure switch. When i got the old one off i saw that part of the wire had been rubbed through and i figured it was shorting out and possibly causing this. Nope. replaced and still had the problem. I have had the alternator check by two shops (one being a certified hyundai dealer) and they say its fine. Any help would be great. It still runs fine but i am worried it could start wreaking havoc on my electrical system.
Kris

hi all

these are the codes that come up

p0715: input/turbine speed sensor malfunction
p1191: ETS limp home valve on(i looked this definition up online as report stated "manufacturer specific code")
P0306: misfire detected (cylinder 6)
p1159: variable induction system(i looked this definition up online as report stated "manufacturer specific code")
p1193: ETS limp home-low rpm(i looked this definition up online as report stated "manufacturer specific code")


the car will drive fine at times but sometimes ill b driving and my car will jolt suddenly and the rpm will suddenly go up.
then once i come to a stop the car wont accelerate, well i does but itll accelerate very slowly with no power till it gets up to about 30 mph.
it apparantly gets stuck in third gear and wont go down nor up. so what i do is manually bring it down to second as it wont go to first and then once it has
gained speed ill bring it back to third. i dont kno what to do as this problem isnt persistent. furthermore sometimes the cel will actually turn off and
the car will run perfectly. any help will surely b apreciated.

How do you remove the front speakers and or grilles?

So my XG350 is about to turn over 160,000. Ive had the car for about 3 and a half years now. when i bought it, it had 70,000. As of about two months ago the only problems ive had with it are the passenger-side CV joint and the power steering pressure hose. Currently, im looking at the routine replacement of the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, and the other belts. I found a complete timing belt kit for right under $400, then labor at about another $400. also, my rack and pinion crapped out on me. so with that and a new PS pump, im looking at another $300-$400 in parts. I can handle that job myself so thatll save me a lil bit of cash. but i am worried about the high milage on the engine and if it would be worth it to drop all that money into it. Does anyone know what the extent of the life is on the 3.5L V6? Any idea on how long the engine will go for? Are the problems going to progressively get worse and more frequent?

Any insight will be greatly appreciated.

Hi ALL,

Glad to know this kind of forum exist.

Planning to get grandeur XG after saw many convincing comments in this forum.

I'm currently working in Korea but will go back to Malaysia my country in 6 mths. Surprised that in Malaysia also got second hand grandeur xg (less than 5 units).

My concern as below:

i. Hope that this car worth to buy.
ii. Which of below is the best choice:
a. grandeur xg, year 2000, 120000km, 3000 cc
b. grandeur xg, year 2001, 90000km, 2500 cc
c. grandeur xg, year 2004, 80000km, 3000 cc
d. grandeur xg, year 2004, 80000km, 2500 cc

iii. As this car available few units in my country, hope that you could suggest which consumable spares and parts which I should bring back from Korea. Afraid that the spares and few parts can't be found in Malaysia.

Appreciate any opinion.

Thanks a lot for your attention.

thanks for looking.

Thought I would share my engine removal process for the xg, the goods and the bads. This is my third transverse mounted engine I've pulled, so I've been through paces enough to know what to do, they all had there in's and out's, and the xg is no different. The pull is fairly straight forward, with a few P.I.A steps.

Read through first!

Tools I used:
-Eye protection, dust mask, and mechanics gloves
-Ball joint popper (do not use a fork style, they damage the boots and joints), autozone has loaners if you need one
-25" HF breaker bar
-1/4 electric impact
-1/2 impact
-Air hammer
-Pry bar
-Engine hoist and leveler
-3/8 and 1/2"Metric sockets (shallow and deep)
-CV axle popper (rented one at Autozone)
-Jack and stands
*This can be completed with hand tools, no impacts are needed*

The hma service has some extra steps and quite a few steps missing
What you don't need to do:
-Disconnect the steering column universal
-There is no special tool needed for the fuel lines, two 10mm bolts hold the lines to the rails

Steps I took
-Bleed the fuel lines
--Disconnected the fuel pump connector under the rear seat, started the car until it died and cranked it a few more times
-Drain coolant, motor oil, and transmission fluid
-Remove radiator fans and radiator
--Use wire ties to hold the condenser as far forward as possible
-Unbolt the A/C compressor (4 12mm bolts), leave all the lines connected
--Let it lay on the sub-frame
-Disconnect the lower/smaller line on the PS reservoir, and unbolt the reservoir (use a small container to catch the fluid and plug the line)
-Disconnect the fuel feed and return
--Cover the line connections with a rag when you pull them
-Disconnect the engine and transmission connections, trace all the connections first, only disconnect those required for removal
--Pop the small wire forward on the security connections, be prepared to catch it, and pull the connector free
*Optional* -Remove the intake manifold, this makes removing the engine easier, but is not necessary
-Remove the heater core lines from the engine
--Have a pan under the car to catch the fluid, and plug the lines
-Pop the caps off the rims, and break the axle castle nuts (32mm) and lug nuts loose
-Jack up the car and securely support it with jack stands
-Remove the wheels
-Remove the brake calipers
--Zip tie them to the upper control arm
-Remove the caliper brackets, rotors, pop the steering tie rods, the two lower ball joint bolts, carefully swing the spindle out and press the axle through
*The axle may be stuck, use a center punch on the recessed portion of the axle to knock it through, do not use hit the end of the axle with a hammer, because it can mushroom out (an axle press can be rented from AZ if needed)
-Remove the drivers side shock
-Remove the axles
--Use the CV puller on the drivers side, the AZ one works, but only the tips grab the back of the axle. This may take quite a few times to hammer it out
--Remove the two bolts holding the axle carrier and slide the passenger side axle out
-Remove the 24mm banjo bolt from the power steering pump
--This is accessed through the passenger side wheel well

Go eat some lunch and chill for a few

-Disconnect the O2 sensors and remove the heat shields from from exh. manifold and down pipe
-Remove the downpipe to manifold studs on the front and back
-Remove the starter
--Remove the bolts from the starter so you can gain access to the wiring, then stand on your head, cross your legs, and finagle the starter out

Back up top

-Double, triple, quadruple, check to make sure all the electrical connections are disconnecter
-Unbolt the front and back roller mounts
--Remove the 14mm bolt on each, and remove the subframe mount on the front one (two 14mm bolts)
-Hook up the engine hoist and raise the boom until the chains see some tension
--Hook it up so that the transaxle hangs down
-Remove the passenger side 17mm engine mount bolt
-Remove the drivers side 17mm bolt from the engine mount
-Allow the trans to hang down and remove the drivers side mount on the engine (2 17mm bolts, 1 17mm nut)

Now the fun starts

-Take a deeeeep breath and give the hoist a pump, check for anything hangin, pump, check, repeat and rinse
--The engine will have to be shifted to the front of the car to clear the back roller mount before it can be lifted
-Take your time and the engine/trans will come out with out any issues
-Stand back, admire the messy engine bay that needs to cleaned
-Go drink a beer and relax

I wrote this from memory, all the critical steps should be there, but follow it at your own risk, as I am not responsible for any damage. I am also not responsible for any discomfort to your taste buds from consuming cheap beer!

The 60K timing replacement was done (by certified mechanics) on my XG , approx a week ago .
I statrted the car up later and severe noise and vibration resulted.
I had it towed to Hyundai and they indicated the belt had been left loose, and therefor this is not a warranty item
Towed back to garage that had done the work and they verified that the belt was loose and timing on one head had slipped.
They say it is Hyundai fault as the (oil driven tensioner had failed ?)
Where does this leave me?
I removed the car from their facility,as they clearly lack the equiptment to correct this.

What is the right repair for all of this ??


Thanks

2002 XG350 brakes do not have the power assist when it is cold outside. Summers are no problem but when winter rolls around, the engine has to heat up before the power assist kicks in. Until the power assist kicks in, it's like driving a car without power brakes. Any suggestions on what to look for?
Many thanks.
silentshark

My car has been rough the last few weeks, previously had the code for EGR flow insufficient,- as well as P0303 cylinder 3 misfire so one by one I replaced everything from the switch to the EGR valve itself along with the pipe the EGR valve screws on to.

Car ran well for a couple of days, not perfect, but much better. Today, I literally limped home. On the way, I stopped at autozone and read the code, it was P0303 - again....and the car was backfiring and really running pathetically.

I've had a car before that had a bad cylinder and it ran similiarly.

I bought an ignition coil for that cylinder to replace tomorrow - other than that: does anyone have any ideas?
*i've already replaced the sparkplugs & checked the wires. and timing belt was replaced so long ago that I highly doubt it has anything to do with it.

I should mention, it's an '01 XG300
Thanks,
mike

All of the following events started within the past week. I have noticed a burnt pizza crust/ toast smell in the car after running the heat on high while I commute to work. I have not noticed any problems with the operation of the car, nor have I noticed any other burning smell. I have been in the unfortunate position of smelling the variety of smells that can come from a car with problems, but this is a first for me? Any assistance is appreciated.

Hi can anyone help me locate the oil filter on my Granduer limited 3.5?

I have a 3ltr Grandeur XG, First registered Jan. 2000 and done 138000km.
For some cosiderable time now I have had an intermittent fault whereby my TC and ABS warning lights come on simultaneously and remain on until I switch off the ignition. When I switch on again the fault is gone and may not return for several days. Though it is becoming more frequent of late.
Today I was able to call in to my local Hyundai Service Bay with the warning lights on and the diagnostics showed:
C1200 Front left speed sensor, open or short circuit
C1203 Front Right speed sensor, open or short circuit
C2402 Motor Pump
C1611 CAN Timeout EMS

The local technician says this looks like an ECM ( Electronic Control Module) problem. Replacement part costs about $2000 and may not fix the problem! The car is in good condition, no rust, runs beautifully and I love it; but it is 10 years old and the current trade in value is just $3000.
What is your best advice?

Happy holidays!

Is Your coolant temperature level aslo between two dots when engine is warm?
If termostat is failed does the coolant temp. gough will show different values?
What is thermistor and what is its function in the heating system.


The problem is that the car seems to get warm very slowly and
when i drive fast and long trips in winter cold the only way to keep interior warm is to put it to 32C and on full blower speed.
Or may it be that xg simply isnt very strong in cold winter conditions?

As far as my other car its possible to greate sauna inside while its freezing outside, so I would like to do something with the heating preformance.

Tnx,
Mihkel

my XG has 160K on it. Of that i put about 90K. Im about to replace the spark plugs and the plug wire. With the high mileage, should i replace the ignition coil too? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

how easy or hard is it to change the spark plugs on the xg30 its about that time they nead doing any help welcome