Yesterday I did the coolant bypass mod. Very noticeable difference, just like everyone said. I've checked my engine bay three times to make sure that the hose isn't dripping any coolant, and it isn't.

But about an hour after I got to work I walked out to my car and for some reason had the thought to look under it. What I saw was a big puddle under my engine! I put some on my fingers and smelled it, and it didn't smell like anything, so I'm assuming it's just water, but it's a sizeable wet spot, probably a foot in diameter. I actually saw some squirt out while I was under it!

So I got in, backed up and drove to another spot, and It left a trail of drips for about 20 feet.

I put my head under and saw a little hose with a drop of water on the end, and I'm assuming this is where it came from, but I don't understand where it's coming from. I drove to work today without using the a/c, just the vent on half-cold setting defrost/floor.

I'm going to go check it in a bit to see if more came out, but does anyone have any ideas?

Got this 08 Accent hatchback sport for like under 3 months but lately I hear squeaky noise from the back seat area on the right side. Especially when i drive on the bumpy road. Anyone has this problem or its just me?

2008+ Hyundai Accents have a single DIN stereo and there is no aftermarket Double Din kit available yet. I tried ordering a 2007 accent bracket but the holes will not line up to an aftermarket deck so modification was needed to get the nav to sit correctly. it is still not 100%, but it is better than nothing and will do untill a proper double din kit is available for the Accent



The Unit is a Kenwood DNX 5120. It uses garmin for its GPS and has the ability to hook up to an Ipod or external hard drive / USB key. I ran the USB cable to the glovebox and attached it with some double sided tabe



Here it is with the 4gb key plugged in



I ran the GPS wire behind the globebox and behing the grey passenger side piller. I then used a small flathead screwdriver the push the wire into the crevous where the window meets the dash. There is rubber stripping which you can carefully push the wire past. I mounted the gps with double sided tabe in the middle of the dash right behind the "button"

So, I'm 2 miles from the house, I'm cruising 57mph, and I come over a hill. There was a farm tractor in my lane, so I pull out into the oncoming lane to pass and get right up to him, and he decides to make a hard left into a drive way. I locked it up, but he had the whole street blocked with the tractor and trailer. Obviously I hit him. He had no brake lights, no blinker, and he even admitted that he never looked before he turned. State Trooper says he's not sure who's fault it is, he's going to research it.

Think my underhood temps would be cooler?

only 4700 miles on the odometer

Yah yah I know I've said it doesn't have to be done. But I'm scared with teh extra power it'll be too hard to handle on the icy roads. So I'm switching a few mods back to OEM for the winter.

Header
Eibach lowering springs (for snow clearance)
Engine Damper (To reduce all the spinning I get now)

Thaings I'm adding on for winter are

Winter studded tires on 15" steel wheels
NeoForm wiperbladees.

Hey everyone! Is anyone else having problems with their 'check engine' light coming on due to the fuel cap being loose or something? Everytime it comes on, and its been like 7 times since April (when I bought the car), I have to take it in to the dealer and they have to tweak the fuel cap or something.

Everytime I try to fix it, the light never goes off. And its not the "check fuel cap" light that goes off, its the actual "check engine light." So I'm always thinking the worst. Anyways, Just curious if anyone else has had that problem, or maybe my accent has a fluke fuel cap!

I was a bit disappointed but anyways... Was my first time there in around 6 years. My best run was a 16.99 I'm gonna need to take a pic of my timeslip

Raced against a friend 4 times with a civic 95 DX and he beat me 3 times out of 4. I honestly thought my accent had more guts to it. Aww well, at least its guaranteed still

EDIT : Also raced an Integra with LS / Vtec ... I actually held him till 60ish lol Then he flew away. Did a 15.1 with his LS / vtec.

There was a clown there with a 2000 accent approx. He was really driving stupid around the pit area and racing down the parking where everyone is. Anyways while in line he was in back of me and started revving at me like crazy.

So just for laughs I rev back to the cut-off and he looks at me and says "ca marche pas ca sti!" which basically means my car ain't worth ****... So I did my run at 16.99 and waited for him around the bend. On the way back I asked him what his time was ... 18something I just chuckled at him and left.

Yesterday I recieved my Hyundai Accent AEM Short Ram Intake.

Installation took approximatly 20 minutes, you need a flat head screw driver and a 10mm socket wrench to complete the install. instructions were clear and easy to follow, you need no prior car/mechanical knowledge to do this modification

Everything fit well, although i found the headshield/ecu bracket to be on the flimsy side. The intake sits within about 3mm from the engine (i was worried about rubbing but all appears to be fine so far)

The intake sounds deep and throaty, it defitily increases the "fun" factor of the car, that being said there is no noticable increase in performance (aside from me driving it harder )

Was it worth the $$$?? i would say if your looking for performance and this is all your going to do then look else where. if your looking for a sporty sound, consmetic appeal, and an ovral big increase in "fun" factor then sure it money well spent!

better? cant complain about the quaility of this!!

I know I have seen several people on here complain about their dealerships.
Or refer to them as stealerships.
But I for one am more than pleased with my dealership.
After my recent accident the dealership worked with the insurance adjuster as well as their(Hyundai's) prefered bodyshop( AND NOT A CHEAP ONE EITHER) to get everything worked out.They even ordered the parts for the dealership to make sure everything was as it was supposed to be.
Since it is not required by law that the insurance to use OEM parts if aftermarket ones are available,I was going to be stuck paying $210.10 plus tax of $18.91 =$229.01 total extra to get all OEM parts.
OEM AFTERMARKET
HOOD- 401.92 325.00
BUMPER COVER- 351.56 276.00
HEADLIGHT- 303.32 245.70(RECONDITIONED OEM)
After trying to get insurance to at least cover part of it,I called Hyundai to get them to go ahead and order the parts aftermarket except for the hood(as a safety item I wanted the hood to be factory regardless).
I was pleasantly informed that the parts had already been ordered.ALL OEM!!!
When I expressed concern about the price discrepancy,the service manager told me "We decided to eat the extra cost and lower the prices to match what was allowed by the insurance company for aftermarket."
"We wanted to make sure you had the right parts on your car."
Nearly all the parts were already here!
NOW THAT' SERVICE!!!!!!!

Last friday i crashed my accent in california. from what a witness says a ford f150 slammed on his brakes and then a scion tc hit him and then rolled back and then i hit the scion because it had no break lights. Good thing everyone was ok. the airbags went off and the windshields cracked. i think the radiator is broken also because it leaked everywhere and the left headlight is broken. also the doors don't open very well because of the quarterpanels

OK for all those looking at buying the KFX Headers and to KFX. These are the modifications required to make the headers work and not cause any Check Engine Lights.

1. Connection for the end of the KFX pipe to CAT needs to have the holes grinded more narrow, about 2-3mm each side.

2. You will need to purchase a set of bolts for the connection of the KFX pipes.

3. OK here's the biggest one. You will need to weld in the second O2 sensor adapter, but not just one but two of these. You will need to weld a second adapter on top of the first adapter. Since the header removes one of the CATs you need to fool the second sensor into believing it is still there. So by pulling the O2 sensor out of the direct path, you give it a false reading that would be the same if the CAT was still there.


Hope this helps everyone else and also helps KFX fix the small issues with the header.

Now vote! Thanks!

http://www.micropoll.com/akira/mpview/479648-107489

better? cant complain about the quaility of this!!

I need to know if there's a way to do this. I have something I'd like to try.

Well I removed the Hyundai and Accent badges today.Polished the back back up nice.Just installed nice sporty pedal covers last week.Oil catch can just arrived .
Guy runs redlight and I T-BONE him in the door and front fender.AAAAUUUUGGGGHHH!!!!
Hood ,bumper,front fenders all smashed in about a foot.Radiator punctured.But the headlights a still in one piece ,though no longer burning.
Cop said I could pick up report Friday and find out then who's fault he wrote it up as,since the other guy said his light was green also.
Of course all witnesses hauled arse as soon as it happened.

its been runnin low on here for modifications..its been a lot of ppl speculating on doing something...WHICH ISNT BAD...but i know a lot of us want to see stuff done hahaha

so ill start and ya'll follow with things we can easily do to get whatever out of our cars performance or comfort wise


well im workin on doing up my headlights like the Audi R8's daytime running lights..(the string of LED's) and once i find a bulk LED supplier ill get to it

also im trying to source out someone to make an underdrive pulley set for our cars

and another thing i plan on getting started on soon is a rear diffuser (the blades under the back of the car that channel air under the car to reduce turbulence




now its your turn

I received my EvoFusion catback 4 days after buying it on eBay from koreancarstuff (the seller name for the EvoFusionUSA.com website). They didn't tell me the tracking number until I emailed them to ask for it, but it arrived minutes after I got their email reply with the tracking info. That's excellent delivery time considering I live in Pennsylvania and they're based in California!

I will update this thread when I go back home in a couple days to install it

STAY TUNED!

any one thought of t or have suggestions on how best to accomplish it

anyone has any idea how to remove it?

I was wondering if any of you that have the scangauge and run a manual trans could tell me what the mpg for 60 65 70 and 75 MPH was. If I get lucky you will have a 2008 GS that is stock, but I will take what info I can get

Thanks in Advance

Just had my 24,000 checkup done, all is well .
But the one odd thing is they changed my pcv valve, but nowhere in the book does it say I have to change that..
Not that I care, the service would have been 180.00 but glad I dont have to pay .
oh, I also got this kick **** snow brush from Hyundai extends like almost 6 feet,made of aluminum with squeegee on one side, the head tilts and locks, the handle is telescopic.
No more reaching over to clean roof of the car =-)
I got quite the lil collection of Hyundai stuff from over the years, a really nice watch,mag light flash light, a reallly nice german steel knife set,umbrella,back pack,huge tote bag, a killer rechargable halogen lamp/led light its realllllly bright.
the salesman caught me licking the Genesis's window....
Just kidding, but I came close to drooling on it.
What a fantastic car, and the rims are beautiful....

Hey all,

As I'm solidifying the plans for my exhaust, I'm going to get (3) 45-degree angle mandrel bends, so the exhaust shop shouldn't have to do much, if any bending. That way they should just be able to cut the angles to the proper lengths to make it work, weld them, and voila, I'll have a mandrel bent catback (since the only other pipes they'd be using would be straight pipes).


OK, so now the question:

I'm comparing steel online, since that's pretty much the only place you can get mandrel bent pipe around here.

Option 1: http://store.racing-solutions.org/2mist45de3ra2.html
2.25" Mild Steel, 45 Degree, 4.5" Radius Mandrel Bend
Material: Mild Steel, 16 Gauge
5" Legs
Sale price: $11.28
ESTIMATED TOTAL with shipping $33.84

Option 2: http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com/servlet/Detail?no=349
2.25" 304 SS Mandrel Bend 45 Degree, 3.38" Center Line Radius

45 Degree Mandrel Bend. 2.25 inch 304 Stainless Steel 16ga.
4 inch legs.
PRICE: $26.95
ESTIMATED TOTAL with shipping $94.49


Buying (3) Option 2s is freaking expensive.
Or I could buy (3) Option 1s, and save lots of money.

So is Mild Steel okay to use for exhaust or not? I would prefer to use Stainless Steel of course, but that is apparently really freaking expensive.

Or maybe I should go with the Stainless Steel? With the amount of money I'm saving by getting the resonator and muffler from PerformancePeddler.com, I should have enough money to get the Stainless mandrel bends and still be within my budget, assuming they don't charge much more than $100 for labor.
By the way, don't use the "EBAYROCKS" code for the website... all it does it makes things MORE expensive. I dunno why, but it does.

What should I do about all these stone chips I have?

I don't want to put touch up paint on my hood. You'll be able to see that way more than the stone chips!

The only other thing I've heard is to put clear nail polish on the spots so that they don't rust.

Help before winter please.

I did this on my old CRX, but I was wondering if we took the hose that goes from the intake filter box to the front of the car, would there be any difference in performance? I know it will make the car sound deeper. I noticed that the hose connects to a resonator in the drivers side fender, and then to a 90 degree piece at the front of the car. I thought that the 90 degree piece was pulling in cold air, but it runs to a dead end spot.

Any thoughts? Thought about doing this for now until I could afford a SRI

In the pic, I'm talking about removing everything from red line to red line.

Jack is famous, if only for a second!

Haha...this was my final for my After Effects class. I couldn't help myself.

See if you can point him out.

Enjoy!

-Dawn

What do you think?

I was just wonder if anyone knows that largest tire/wheel setup that can be fitted to an 08 Accent SE? I am pretty sure I can not go 18's since I have the lowering springs installed.

Thanks in advance.

Hello Hyunda-forums community!

I am the new owner ("wife") of a 2009 Accent 1.6 GLS, auto, a.c., 4 drs, electric, R15

Have a good day all,

in mexico is a "dodge attitude" = hyundai accent more info:

http://www.dodge.com.mx/frGen2Hoja.asp?Hoj...ClaveGen=ATTI09

what model (year) in usa could be my new car? for aftermarkets products like cruise control, etc.?

rob

my personal car is a dodge ram 2500 quad cab, 4.7, R20,

I've had my 2008 Hyundai Accent for almost 5 months now, and I'm still having vibration issues at highway speeds (100km/h and up).

I purchased the car with aftermarket rims that Hyundai offered. The rims themselves are made by a company called Fast Wheels that apparently makes exclusive rim styles for Hyundai Canada. I've never heard of them before so I don't know how reputable/experienced they are with rim-building.

The tires on the rims are Yokohama 215/40R17. I don't know a whole lot about tires, but I've seen the Yokohama brand so many times I find it hard to believe that they would have any serious issues with quality control.

And thus the saga begins:

After I bought the car it took me about 3 weeks to realize the vibration issue was present. The first time I took it on the highway, I immediately noticed some serious vibration coming through the steering wheel. I contacted the dealership and they schedule an appointment for me to bring the car and get the tires rebalanced.

It took me a while to notice that the vibration was still present after that first visit because I don't drive on the highway very often.

They sent me to a tire & muffler place that balanced the wheels again. The employee there told me that they didn't know what Hyundai was doing, but one of the wheels was really horrifically balanced. So off I went.

Needless to say, the vibration issue was still there. Hyundai sent my car off to the only tire place in my city that had a 'road force' balancer that could simulate a load while balancing the tires. Apparently that business told Hyundai that one tire wouldn't balance no matter what, so they replaced the Yokohama tire on the front left wheel.

In the mean time, I started university which meant that I was driving on the highway three times a week. The vibration issue was not as bad as before, but still present.

So to recap: vibration now was not too noticeable at 100km/h, but got uncomfortable at 110km/h and downright scary at 120km/h. As much as I like cruising at 100km/h, it's pretty much suicide on some stretches of highway.

I went to the Hyundai dealership for the 4th time for the same issue, and they asked me to bring in the car's original rims to try and see if the vibration was present with those. Unless they were very careful to place them in the back of my car exactly how I had put them in there, they never even tried the car with them on. They told me that they found an issue with the spacers on my tire, and that some of them wouldn't tighten. They're ordering new ones that should arrive in two days, so hopefully that fixes this issue good and for all. If it doesn't, I'm going to take my car into an independent tire & wheel company and see what they say.

TL;DR (aka SUMMARY) because I know that's way too long for anybody to read. It was twice as long before I pruned it. Ranting is therapeutic.

My car has had vibration at highway speeds since I bought it. Four visits to Hyundai and probably a combined waiting time of 9 hours has made me less than happy. They've ordered new spacers for the tires, and if that doesn't fix the issue then I'm going to take the car to a independent tire shop to see what they say.

Has anybody else had an issue like this? I realize that this is a really difficult thing to diagnose since so many things could be causing it. They could have at least narrowed it down by trying the original tires, though.

Holy cow, I really have to stop writing so much.

So does anyone have one of the new iPods yet?

Mine won't charge in my Alpine headunit and I was wondering if anyone else has this problem or not, because now, obviously, I have to get a new stereo.

My old iPod charges just fine, my new one just won't charge. So for anyone who wants to get the new iPod, heads up!