Well Glock asked me to make a write up on how to install the Rostra Cruise Control Unit, so I felt like being a good guy and did. I may have forgotten a few things, as I installed this kit a week or two after I bought my car so if there's any problems, let me know.

OK. First off, let's get by far the hardest part out of the way, the portion that took me roughly 3 hours to do, as I didn't know where to put this thing to make it look factoryesq, though now that I've done it I could do it in less than a half hour.

The Servo:

I mounted it on the LF strut tower with the bracket included, as there was a nice stud Hyundai left us. Cut, bent and painted the bracket to make it look as close to a factory piece as possible. You can see in the picture how I routed the servo cable behind the engine bay.

[attachmentid=9746]

The Cable:

After that I routed my cable around the motor to the TB. You must cut threads into the cable (the plastic shielding), all that you have to do for this is use the nut included in the package (just a regular nut) and thread it on and spend about a half hour cutting a thousand threads into the cable. After you're done that, you turn on the cable bracket/clip, make sure you spin this on the right way, because if you don't, like I did, you have to spend another 10 minutes spinning it off. When you have that all done, Rostra was nice enough to include slotted piece of steel (just a piece of steel with holes drilled into it to make a bracket) so I took that, cut it so I only had two holes (one is a big square one for the cable clip), then made a 90 degree bend in it. There was a nice bolt on the intake that I just removed, placed the bracket underneath, and bolted it back down.

[attachmentid=9737]

In this picture you can see the galvanized piece of steel that I made the 90 degree bend in, and where it's bolted to the intake, you can also see the copious amount of threads I cut (I cut extra so I wouldn't have to turn the nut back on, just in case) and the black plastic cable clip that you thread onto the cable afterwards.

[attachmentid=9738]

Just another view so you can see how it is routed.

After that you need a way of attaching it to the TB, Rostra was nice enough to supply a bracket for that, that will work for our cars as well. To install the bracket just remove the nut from the throttle, and put the new one in place and tighten it back up. Then you need to cut a piece of the balled cable that Rostra supplied, I used 4, I don't remember the formula to figure out how many you need, as this was a long time ago. Essentially the balls prevent the cable from pulling too far, giving slack, and burning out the servo motor. Then just attach the proper style of cable end on the end of you ball cable, a loop style, and slide it onto your new throttle bracket with a washer and secure with a cotter pin (all included in kit).

[attachmentid=9740]

And Another View:

[attachmentid=9739]

There, we're all done by far the hardest, and longest part of this installation.

Switch Installation:

This part is easy. Remove the steering column cover, and mark where you would like to put the switch, being sure there is sufficient room behind your chosen location for the wiring to have room, then drill the hole (I forget the size of this hole, 1/2" or something like that). The put your switch in and route the wiring down the column, being sure to keep it away from any moving parts. I chose my location so I didn't accidentally bump it and break it. Also, be sure you have enough leg room so you don't knee it either.

[attachmentid=9743]

Standards Only
Clutch Switch

Ok, since my car is a standard, I needed to have a way of disengaging it when I hit the clutch, so I ordered the kit with the clutch switch. This part was very simple thanks to Hyundai. Crawl under your dash, and you'll see a bolt (used as a stop) on a bracket in front of the clutch pedal. Drill that out ever so slightly, and slide your clutch switch in. Adjust the switch, using the nuts on the switch itself, until when you lift up on the pedal, the pedal is just barely touching the metal part of the switch (button fully depressed). Don't have the switch too far in to stop the pedal from coming up, as, that would be bad.

[attachmentid=9741]

The Wiring:

First thing you need to do is cut a hole in the firewall to route the wiring through. I found a nice place right beside the main harness. I believe the hole I had to cut was 3/4" maybe 11/16". Anyways, when you're drilling this hole BE SURE to check where you're drilling. The brake booster, brake lines and slave cylinder are very close to that hole, just just make sure you're not drilling them. Then just seal it with the included sealer.

[attachmentid=9745]

Ok, for the wiring from the Rostra harness now.

Black Wire:
Ground. I just mounted this to an existing grounding point on the strut tower near the servo.

Brown Wire:
This wire has a little flexible tip on it to install along with a fuse in the fuse box, just be sure the fuse you select is a power with key on only.

[attachmentid=9736]

Red and Violet wires:
These are your brake power and cold wires. Just use the included connectors and clamp them onto your brake wires. I don't recall which was which for sure, but I believe green was power, red was cold. So in this case, Red would go to Green, Violet to Red. Just to be sure though, take a test light, puncture the wire where you plan on connecting the wires, if the test light lights up, that's your hot.

[attachmentid=9735]

Standards Only
Clutch Switch Wiring:

I believe all that needs to be done for this, if I remember correctly, just cut your Violet wire, and put this BETWEEN (meaning BOTH wires are between the servo and brake switch) your servo and brake switch. So basically just run it in a series after the brake switch. So cut the violet, attach one wire to one end of the violet, and the other to the other end of the violet.

Gray Wire:

This is your VSS wire (Vehicle Speed Sensor). Since there was no diagram for this, I just went out of gut, what most cars use for their VSS wire, and just so happens it happened to work. Colour was Red/Orange and pin location 6. EVERY CAR IS NOT THE SAME. So be sure to check what colour your VSS wire is. I just connected it behind the Data Link Connector.

[attachmentid=9744]

Now pop the wires from the cruise control switch into the connector supplied (looks like the common 4-pin computer power connector) and connect that to the one on the servo harness. Your cruise is now installed, on a stick car anyway.

As for Automatic cars, there is a Dark Blue Tach wire and an Light Green NSS wire (Neutral Safety Switch) and honestly I have no idea where you guys would decide to hook them up. So those two wires are up to you guys with Automatics.

Now, before you take this thing out for a ride, there are switches on the Servo that have to be set to your specific vehicle, they are under a rubber grommet, 12 of them. The positions I used for mine are as follows:

Gain (Sensitivity)
1 - On
2 - Off
Pulses Per Mile (Ours are 4000)
3 - On
4 - Off
5 - Off
6 - Off
Engine/SetUp Timer (How fast cable retracts: Low)
7 - On
8 - Off
9 - Off
VSS Source (On = Car)
10 - On
Transmission (Off = Manual, On = Automatic)
11 - Off
Control Switch (Open circuit or Closed: Mine is open)
12 - Off

Well I believe that should cover it. If I missed anything, or if somebody has a problem, feel free to ask.

Cheers.

*UPDATE*
due to new software on the forum pictures were move from it was before, this is the best i could fix it.
LEDS 30 light intensity:
1) Eled store
2) Fry's Electronics
Blue - Item # 5351728
Well here it is, sorry for the delay but it took me some time to gather the pics and taking some since i lost most of them.
Some pics were taken with my phone and other retaken with digital camera.
To start this will be the tools you will be using:
SMD LEDS at least 37 (4 clock, 11 A/C, 22 Cluster)
Flat Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
Torx #10
Soldering Iron
solder
SMD Soldering Video Reference
Tons of patience(very recommended)

Ok here it go!!!

First, lets start with the clock

1) Remove your center console with flat screwdriver covering the tip with electrical tape.

2) Unplug both connectors from the bottom.

3) And the top

4) Unscrew those 4

5) With a flat screwdriver lift one side

6) Then the other side.

7) Now this is your circuit board, remove those 3 screws.

8) As you can see, the screen is connected with those long pins solder to the board.

9) Your next step its to bend those pins(be really careful, do it very gently) to lift the screen

10) Then remove the white plastic base.

11) As you can see all green...yuck

12) Now this is your next step, one of the most important ones.This is your SMD diagram, when you remove you smd REMEMBER the position it was before, when i say that i meant the polarity. It is extremely important to do, if not you SMD wont light up


13) Next remove your stock smd's warming one side to unsolder the led lifting one side just a little bit with small tweezers and then proceed to unsolder the other side pulling gently the smd from the circuit board. To solder your new smd refer to the VIDEO.

now place the white base under the screen and unbend the pins. the screen will be looking like this.

Firstly, thanks to Komptek for the idea. This DYI is now complete with pictures. The car in this DYI is a 2008 Hyundai Accent SE.

TOOLS NEEDED:
-Needle Nose pliers (this is a MUST)
-Regular pliers (relatively small)
-You may want to wear gloves so your hand doesn't get destroyed like mine (see last picture)
-PATIENCE

NOTE: Click the pictures to be taken to a High-Resolution version. Also, the names of the pictures are the timestamps, to give you an idea of how long it took me to figure out what I needed to do, then accomplish it.

1) Remove the Intake Hose (the BIG RUBBER RIBBED HOSE, not the small hose near the arrow!) from the Manifold, by loosening the screw. Go ahead and prop it on top of your engine to get it out of the way.


2) These are the two hoses in question. They are UNDER the Intake Manifold seen in picture 1.


You're going to have to use the Needle Nose pliers to turn the clamp so that it faces you. This is painfully difficult. You've been warned. You can then use Regular pliers to move it down the hose.


3) Finally managed to yank the tube off. This may take a lot of HARD pulling, but it should make a pleasant *pop* sound when it comes off. Don't worry about Coolant spillage either. During the course of this DYI, I think I lost 3 drops of coolant, and I wasn't even trying to be careful.


4) This is the other end of the hose you just disconnected. If you can't find this for some reason, just follow the hose you disconnected at one end, with your fingers until you find this end. Voila. Once again, using the Needle Nose pliers, you have to get the clamp to slide down the hose using the same method you used for the top connection of the hose. This is going to be incredibly difficult. Take this hose completely off. Put it somewhere, it doesn't matter where. Throw it in your garage somewhere. Just try to remember where you put it in case you for some reason want to reverse the MOD.


5) SUCCESS! You're half way done! Don't worry, the rest is pretty simple. Except for the next step...


6) Going back to the Intake Manifold, you have to twist this clamp so that it will face you, the same way you had to for the other hose. This is the hardest step because you have VERY little room to work with.


7) 7 minutes of twisting and pulling and the clamp is almost down far enough for me to disconnect the hose!


8) 12 minutes after I started trying to get this hose off, it FINALLY came off. Remember, you're only disconnecting the TOP of this hose. DO NOT REMOVE IT COMPLETELY. It took a LOT of realllly hard pulling and yanking. Just be careful to not let the pliers cut open the hose. I wrapped a small piece of paperboard around the hose before yanking it, just in case.


9) You may want to pull the hose around UNDER this wire, just for the sake of neatness.


10) READ CAREFULLY!! Take the TOP of the hose you just disconnected (STEP 8). Now, connect it to the ENGINE, where you disconnected the FIRST hose (STEP 4) (the first hose was the one you completely removed). Make sure you slide the clamp back up the hose, onto the receiving end on the engine! The last thing you want is to have to go back in there to fix what you were too lazy to do right the first time! If you have questions, please REREAD this instruction 5 times before asking. It should be very clear.


11) This is another view of the hose you JUST CONNECTED to the engine.


12) With any luck, your hand won't look like mine did after I was done.


13) Put the Intake Tube back onto the Intake Manifold the same way you got it off (tighten the screw).

Congratulations! You've now got a heck of a lot more power at your disposal! Enjoy! It would probably be a good idea to leave your hood open and start the engine at this time to make sure you aren't leaking anything. I'm not, so you shouldn't be either if you can follow directions and pretty pictures.

I have not been able to get an idea of the gas mileage differences yet as I just did this mod 2 days ago. Please give me a week or so to post the findings. As for the coolant temperature, since I know you're all going to ask... there is no difference, according to the Temperature Gauge, in coolant temperature whatsoever. But you will sure as heck feel a difference when you drive!!

Items Needed:

Phillips Head Screw Driver
1-3/8" Ratchet
1-10mm shallow socket
1-3/8" x 6" extention (optional)
1-Wire Strippers
1-Wire Crimpers
Wire Terminals (2 sets of disconnects (male and female ends) and 2 spade)
12" of Red Wire (I used 12 gauge for this project)
12" of Black Wire (I used blue because that's what I had)
1-Fiamm Freeway Blaster Horn E (Part #72102)
1-Fiamm Freeway Blaster Horn F (Part # 72112)


Step 1:

Open Hood



Step 2:

Remove 7 phillips head screws (you will have to loosen them almost all the way out, and then pull them to remove the bottom portion of the fastener) and 2 - 10mm bolts from the top of the bumper (all screws and bolts are located with red arrows in the picture)





Step 3:

Remove the stock horn by pulling the top of the bumper out gently (and not too far) and locating the 10mm bolt that holds the stock bracket to the chassis.



Step 4:

Disconnect the power to the horn by pushing in the button, and pulling the plug out of the horn.



Step 5:

Remove the bracket off the stock horn by removing the 10mm nut that holds the bracket on.



Step 6:

Once you have removed the bracket from the stock horn, you will notice that there are actually 3 brackets put together to make one. You are going to make a "V" shape out of the pieces of metal. You will have one strip on one side of the "V" and 2 strips on the other.

OK here it is. The Engine Damper from KFXperformance. I'd rate this add-on a must have 8 out of 10, the install was on a 2007 Accent SR. It has the DCsports Strut bar and AC. Some modification is needed.

1. You will need a longer screw and washer to mount the front bracket.
2. You'll need to cut out a section fo the DCsport strutbar.

[attachmentid=8763][attachmentid=8764]

Here is a list of websites to checkout before you post the question,"where can I find performance OEM or aftermarket parts? I'm pretty sure I got them all but if I miss any or some news ones come aviable we will work at getting them added to this list.
HyundaiCanada OEM parts from Canada, expensive but the best parts out there, you might find some of these parts cheaper on Ebay.
AEM SRI
DC Sport Strut Bar
Vibrant Catback Exhaust
Eibach Lowering Springs

KFX Performance Canada Aftermarket parts for Kia Rio and Hyundai Accent. Great prices.
Hyundai Accessory Store USA OEM parts for Hyundai's. Decent prices.
KFX Performance USA The USA version of KFX Canada. Same parts, USA prices.

The rest are sites that have some limited parts or are the manufactures of the parts listed above.
Evofusion USA Limited Parts.
Korean Auto Imports Some Korean parts for the Hyundai.
KSPEC Another Korean website.
SFR Seoulfulracing yet another asian website.
Ultra RacingMakers of some KFX suspension parts.
AEM Manufacture of OEM Strut bar and Short Air Intake.
Eibach Springs Manufacture of Canadian OEM Lowering Spring.
B&I Trim Makers of Canadian OEM interior trim parts.
B&M Racing Makers of the OEM Short Shifter Kit.
Vibrant Performance Makers of Canadian OEM Catback exhaust.
OnderGround Design Makers of the first aftermarket bodykit.

Video <-=--=-=-=

Ok, I took the time to do this work and now I want to share it to you so you get to know how would our headlights look with this mod.

The first thing you need to do it to take your headlights apart. It is very easy just 2 bolts and 1 clip and you dont have to remove the bumper just the bolts and clips of the grill and you can reach one of the bolt of the headlight. You should know where is the other bolt .

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery or remove the battery negative terminal first when removing, while putting the battery again connect positive first, there should never be the negative terminal connected without the positive.

Unplug the headlight connectors and remove the turn signal bulb.

The chrome goes off very very easy. I used 400 grit sandpaper, but 320 should work faster ;). You scuff it up.

I used sandable primer from dupli-color.


This is how the OEM look


Remove any bulb.

Remove this screw.


To open the headlight you can use an oven or a heat gun. I recommend using a heat gun. It is so easy to manage. This is the first time doing this and it took me like 10 minutes to get one headlight apart.

If you are using a heat gun. Use the heat gun at level 1 and start heating one side of the headlight (for example the upper part). Heat it like 2 minutes and have the heat gun like 5-10 cm from the headlight.


I dont think you need gloves I didnt use them. Start prying the section you heated. After you pry one side a little bit repeat the same process with the other side. Now go again to the first side and heat it again because it is going to get cool while you are working in the other side. Pry more until you get them almost apart.



When you are about to get them apart just head all the sides and then with your hands take them apart. Just pull them apart do not pull them back together.


Set aside the reflector part.

Unscrew the trim and unclip it from the plastic cover. Take out the trim.


Now remove the orange reflector from the trim. Becareful not to broke any clip of the reflector. There are 3 clips I broke one clip on each of my orange reflectors but it didnt matter they clipped well with the other 2.

For the reflector of the turn signal you cant take it apart, so use masking tape to covered it.


Sand all the chrome off. I used 400 sand paper waterproof. I used water too.


I used primer before any painting. I painted the trim flat black and the orange reflectors gloss black. I didnt use high temp paint for the trim. You just paint it any color you want. Make sure you read full instructions of any thing you spray.

Let the paint dry. My paint says it it handable in three hours but I let it dry overnight.

After the painting. I used water to clean the trim and the orange reflector. Remove the masking tape and used water also to clean the turn signal reflector. Clean everything very very well. I cleaned the plastic also. Just put back the orange reflector and the trim.

To seal it put the headlight parts back again just as when you pulled them apart.
Heat one side of the headlight (just like when you pry it) and when it is hot (I used some towels) push them back as hard as you can. Repeat the process with the other side and then repeat it until you see it is good together.

I used some black high temp silicone all over where you pry. Just to make sure it had a good seal.

After all the steps above I putted shop towels where the turn signal bulbs and the halogen bulbs were and let them absorb all the moisture that could be inside the headlight. I leaved them like that about 6 hours.

Reinstall the headlights and everything.

Enjoy!








Here is a small video of her with her new eyes!
http://video.cardomain.com/clip.aspx?key=230CD0E74200B5BE

Hello everyone, I have been browsing on here for a little while and just got a 2008 2-door Accent GS around 2 months ago. I want to get some rims for bc i think the factory hubcaps kind of put a damper on it. However, I don't really want to get a tire/rim package because the factory tires (ku... (sp?)) are practically new and i want the spare wheel to still fit in the back of the car... Does that make sense??

So i think the base tires on the 2008 accent GS are sized 175/70/14. Has anyone here JUST bought rims for there original tires? What rims would u recommend, I am looking at either gun-metal or flat/matte black. Any advise or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Finally got it install today i deciede to Drill holes on my grill and install it Sorry it took so longis been cold around here LOL










Night pictures coming When is dark

Well after about 2 months of procastinating, and I just got my angel eyes today... got the headlights... well 1 almost done, just have to drill 2 small holes to poke the wiring through, for the angel eyes, on the back of the reflector behind the projector and well I guess glue the angel eyes on there. The angel eyes were approx. 3mm smaller than advertised so I had a **** of a time getting them to fit around the bezel, dremel tool is your best friend. What do you guys think?

[attachment=10231:headlight.jpg]

[attachment=10232:headlight2.jpg]

So I have come up with a design to do for my tail lights everyone let me know what you think!


[attachment=10214:taillightcover2.JPG]

LOL now i am driving with out it it looks so much better yes i will hit revers get easy

Good luck trying to get this part (engine damper) from KFX.

I ordered one back in late July, and they immediately charged my credit card $108 shipped.

Two weeks later, I emailed KFX that I hadn't received it yet - no answer.

4 weeks from order I emailed KFX where was it? Finally got a reply asking if it was for a Rio. Told them it was for an Accent- same car.

6 weeks from order I emailed KFX and told them if I didn't receive it by Sept. 10th I was going to dispute my credit card charge and post on these forums my buying experience with KFX. - no answer.

So, I've disputed the charges. Buyer Beware!

Remote start works with viper 791 car alarm. Also I haven't done it yet but i can tell you all how to get keyless entry without spending $1000 !!


pictures of stealth 2000 watt install!

My service manual is at my parents' house and I'm unable to check.

I've been meaning to get an oil change recently, but I've had a few issues with a frozen bank account, lost wallet and overtime at work which has lead me to not getting one.

I'm really scared of driving the car anymore, as I feel it is way passed it's due date for an oil change. I've had the car for about 6 months now, and it has 3600 miles on it.

In any case I am hoping I am not causing too much damage to the engine, but physically with my bank accounts frozen and no cash I cannot get an oil change.

Additionally my MPG has been pretty bad... low 20's or so, but I've read that it should pick up after the 3500 miles mark. Would the MPG improve with an oil change as well?

Sorry for being such a newb here, I'd really like any advice on what to do.

Thanks!

Hey guys I'll be in Montreal the last week of December and was wondering if anyone is in that area or is there anything uniquely Hyundai I need to see there?


Ray

Hello,

I purchased a new 2008 Hyundai Accent SE in black, auto, fully-loaded in late August. The car now has 1200 miles on it and will be returning to Piazza Hyundai for the 5th time for the TPMS system.

Trip#1 TPMS low-tire pressure light went on. Back to dealership who said the tire pressure was low. Adjusted tire pressure and reset.
Trip#2 TPMS system light on. The tire pressure was not low and the car has 2 bad wheel sensors. Had to go back to have new sensors installed and system reset

Trip#3 TPMS system light back on. Dealership now states they have a new software program to reprogram the system. New software loaded into car and system reset

Trip#4 TPMS system light back on. Another bad tire sensor. Had to schedule ANOTHER trip back to the dealership because they had to order the part and have the new sensor installed and system reset

Trip#5 to be scheduled..........TPMS system light back on after 3 days.

At this point I am tired of going back to the dealership. I no longer can make the time and had been advised this vehicle could fall under the PA Lemon Law act which states any new vehicle that after 3 consecutive tries cannot be repaired the owner of the vehicle in question is entitiled to either have his deposit returned to him or given a brand new vehicle of like kind, color, etc.........I believe the TPMS is a safety feature that needs to be corrected but the Service Manager says it is not.

Your thoughts....Should I push the Lemon Law issue or give the dealership one more try......

My large 2200.1 blew while at the installer! (i went back because we had an issue) ie the unfinished box.


Here is the box now:



im going to vynil it my self while i wait for my amp to come back fixed HOPEFULLY i will get a better one

Blah, sounds like my power steering pump is dying on me... It is usually only when the temperature is at freezing or below and the engine happens for the first 15 minutes or so that the engine has been running. It is a constant squeak squeak squeak proportionate to engine RPM. When you're doing 45 MPH, you can still hear it and the squeaks are so fast and close together it sounds like a car out of some cartoon. heh! The assist becomes uneven when turning the wheel back and forth at idle as well. I've included an MP3 of it at idle if it allows me to post that kind of attachment.

Once the engine has warmed up and the car has been driven for a while the noise goes away. And I've only had it make this noise a few times now when it was above freezing. I'm guessing a bearing or something in the pump is on its way out?

Fluid level is good and the belt is tight and in pretty good condition. It does appear to be a rusty color on the inside of the belt for some reason. Both pulleys on the pump and crank are clean though.

I previously had issues in this department, the belt would slip and squeal (a much different sound than I'm hearing now btw) when turning the wheel when the engine was cold and there was a good amount of humidity in the air (i.e. at night/early morning.) The dealer adjusted the tension on the belt and it was ok after that provided that it wasn't raining hard. I still had some slippage/squealing when driving in the rain if there was some standing water on the road but went away after a second or two.

I figure she'll go in the shop but just wanted to see what your thoughts were on this.

another mid night online shopping and when i went to KFX canada site is now joomla pack installer i guess it was good while it lasted

I've finally started buying the parts for my soon-to-be exclusively Magnaflow exhaust.
I will update this thread as the pieces arrive, and also when I finally get it all installed and setup.

For now, I have ordered the resonator and exhaust tip. Kinda funny how the tip was actually more expensive than the resonator lol. It's a resonated tip, which means it will cut down on the exhaust sound levels by an additional 1-2 dB.

Bought both on Amazon.com for a total of $105. Those are the absolute lowest prices on the internet for the genuine parts, brand new. I'll be getting my muffler from PerformancePeddler.com, as they have the lowest available price for the muffler, as soon as I deposit my check from work.



Magnaflow Resonator: http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/display...artnumber=10425


Magnaflow Tip: http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/display...artnumber=35175



You can start getting excited now. lol.. this isn't just another thread about exhaust where I'm speculating on making/buying one. I've ordered the parts and they should be here within a week or two. I will be getting the exhaust made the first weekend after all the parts arrive.

Do you guys with 08's have the clear plastic pouch holder for the owner's manual? I had that in my 07 but HATED that flimsy plastic.

I found one for an 08 Hyundai Sonata on e-bay that is very nice. It is a black leather like material with the Hyundai H on the front and HYUNDAI written on the interior material. It has pockets for the owner's manual, warranty books, dealer cards, a Hyundai ink pen, and a seperate leather holder for the maintenance guide. It fits in the glove compartment easily.

Bought and delivered for $20.00

Ray

After comparing with other SE and GS owner i have come to the conclusion SE has a better Suspension and heated mirrors, sun Roof, and fog light and two tweeter comes with 16 inch wheels and 14 for GS GS has everything electrical windows like the SE but no heated mirrors or sun roof or fog lights or tweeters or wheels Correct me if i am wrong but is it really worth the extra money to get an SE?