just want to see what some of your accents look like. Cant find to many good pictures on the internet. Im thinking of doing black with the black housing on the headlights and smoking the tail lights. but want to see what all the different colors you guys have look like.

Here is a list of websites to checkout before you post the question,"where can I find performance OEM or aftermarket parts? I'm pretty sure I got them all but if I miss any or some news ones come aviable we will work at getting them added to this list.
HyundaiCanada OEM parts from Canada, expensive but the best parts out there, you might find some of these parts cheaper on Ebay.
AEM SRI
DC Sport Strut Bar
Vibrant Catback Exhaust
Eibach Lowering Springs

Hyundai Accessory Store USA OEM parts for Hyundai's. Decent prices.

Hyundai OEM Parts Tons of OEM parts for Hyundai.

The rest are sites that have some limited parts or are the manufactures of the parts listed above.
Evofusion USA Limited Parts.
Korean Auto Imports Some Korean parts for the Hyundai.
KSPEC Another Korean website.
SFR Seoulfulracing yet another asian website.
Ultra RacingMakers of some KFX suspension parts.
AEM Manufacture of OEM Strut bar and Short Air Intake.
Eibach Springs Manufacture of Canadian OEM Lowering Spring.
B&I Trim Makers of Canadian OEM interior trim parts.
B&M Racing Makers of the OEM Short Shifter Kit.
Vibrant Performance Makers of Canadian OEM Catback exhaust.
OnderGround Design Makers of the first aftermarket bodykit.

Other useful sites:

HMAService Hyundai Motor America Service Information

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Tire Size Calculator

http://www.bigcustomwheels.com/rt_specs.jsp Tire Wheel Calculator for offset too

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109_130_133 Different type of connectors (for headlights, turn signals, brake, ballasts, etc.)

http://www.autolumination.com/equalizers.htm Relays and resistors

http://car-part.com/ You can find junk yards here.

http://www.spoilerexpress.com/cart/store/index.asp They sell almost every OEM spoiler.

I know, dumb question. I realized that I left my manual at work but not until after I drained the oil & took off the filter. It's sitting in the driveway waiting for it's first oil & filter change, 3,021 miles. Thanks for any help.

So i'm tossing up ideas about a motor swap; Wondering if a 2004-2008 Tiburon 2.7L w/ tranny would fit. Has anyone tried? I know I'll probably need a whole new custom front subframe. Help and ideas would be greatly appreciated=)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayDyLpKfEKc...mp;feature=fvwp


Im glad I bought a $13,000 casket....

2010 Cd Player with Mp3 Inquiry

I had some old cd rw i been burning mp3 data cd's and for some reason the stereo just don't want to play them just keeps saying reading..... then gives up eventually once in a while it will play a song for about 5 or 6 seconds then quit and am not really sure on the exact issue.

We will test with a older burnt cd in data format today to see if that one works but the cd's all work fine in pc's as far as reading them goes. Could it be a issue with the mp3 decoders?

I was burning with just plain old windows media player no conversion and about 100mb left free on the cd.

Today I finally took possession of my 2010 Noble White Accent. The car had 4km on the odo. The dealer experience was very good. My saleslady was very nice and knew her product. Then I met the sales director to get my loan approved. The guy (and the saleslady) were both from France. The director was a very cool guy. We talked about cars and diesels sold in europe because I told him two of my three previous cars were diesel VWs. He agreed with me when I said hyundai should sell the CRDI Accent here. This was on monday. Today I signed a buttload of papers and left with my GF following me in the Passat. Full fuel tank as well as washer fluid.

My first impressions are VERY good. I didn't expect the car to pull that much after being used to a 180hp AWD car. Very fun. The shifter can be a bit hard to put in first but I'm used to that. Shifts have a click/click feel quite reminiscent of the rod shifters found in older VWs. I'm pretty please with it. The handling feels good and steering isn't over-assisted like other brands. It doesn't feel as connected as the Passat but it's **** good for an econobox and 100x better than a Yaris or Aveo. The Accent being quite a bit shorter than the VW, it doesn't react the same way over big bumps/wavy roads. You get "thrown" around more but at least it doesn't make weird noises going over them ;) As for fuel mileage, I've only put 50km on it so we'll see. The engine isn't broken in yet so I can only expect it to go higher.

The interior is nice. A lot of plastics but you get what you pay for. The ergonomics work very well except for the rear window defrost which I think is a bit far from the driver and the steering wheel doesn't adjust high enough. Seats are comfy but lack a bit of lateral support. One thing I don't like is that the interior is a dark grey instead of being black. It's quite noticeable when you compare it to the radio or other trims. The car also doesn't have the sunglasses holder between the headliner I bet it can be easily added though. The rear parcel shelf doesn't have cords so it can lift with the hatch. Odd but an easy fix.

I did specifically ask the dealer to NOT put their stickers on the car (one on the front bumper and one on the hatch) but I guess the message didn't go through... I'll remove them soon. At least it's not a plate screwed into the front bumper.







The car was spotless when I left the dealer. It didn't take long to get it dirty

Next weekend I'm going to the shop I work at to do a complete rust proofing. I'm not letting some guys drill holes in my doors and jambs to get to the interior. My Passat was rust proofed like that and guess what? The holes they drilled are rusting So I'll be striping the doors, removing the rear seats and quarter panel trims, the hatch panel, fender liners and bumpers to spray EVERYTHING with a nice coat of thick oil. I wanna get every nooks and crannies. I've seen "professional" rust proofing that was just a splur of oil in the middle of the door skin instead of hitting the important parts like the bottom/side joint and upper lip. Needless to say it wasn't doing much...

I'll also be installing these: http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaUSA/W...Horns/Horns.jsp

They are on my Passat right now and they are pretty awesome. They get the point across when you want to warn the douchebag that just cut you off.

In the future months I'll be doing some mods, mainly a good stereo with a possible custom spare-tire sub enclosure and keyless entry with power windows. A drop and wheels are planned but maybe not next summer. Probably a HID retrofit if I can get a cheap set of headlights. I'll definitely get OEM foglights and I'm thinking about tinting red the chrome surround in the tailights. I'll debadge the car as well. I think it's redundant to read HYUNDAI on the hatch with the logo already there.

Hey guys, I'm trying to decide on which ones i want to go with.. thought maybe i could get some input on who has what and pro's and cons..
Any info would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

HD1

Went to my local Hyundai dealership today for them to resurface my front rotors due to a little wobble at the pedal, "which is a warranty issue". while i was in there i was in the back talking with the mechanics, i mentioned i had had a check engine light that came on "briefly" a few months ago. He then hooked it up and found updates for the ecu.. we'll see if i notice anything.. but i wanted to mention it.

I bought the Accent in August of 2006 with the hope that there would be some aftermarket support for the car. The intention from the start was to eventually install a turbo, well, it’s done.

I will be having it tuned Monday afternoon 4-20-09. Here is a little list of everything I’ve done to make the turbo install as smooth as possible.
BATTERY
Remote mounted the battery to the rear bumper reinforcement. I used an Odyssey PC680 that I was a little leery about making it through the winter, needles to say it passed with flying colors. There are jumper terminals in the spare tire well in case it does get low on juice. There is also a self resetting circuit breaker before the wire runs to the front of the car. I felt I needed to do this to free up engine bay space. All of the battery wiring is covered in MIL Spec flame and abrasion resistant sleeving and all ends are insulated with a catalyzed heatshrink. I need to take off the bumper to get a picture so there will be an update later for that.
RADIATOR

I swapped out the original radiator and fans for an all aluminum radiator from a 92 Honda Civic. I did this to free up space on the left side of the engine bay so I could get enough clearance for the turbo. I also mounted 2 slim fans in the stock locations. In all honesty the engineers must have had this very thing in mind when they designed the Radiator support. It literally falls into place with lower mounts in the proper place and holes for the upper mount already there. A little fab work had to be done on the radiator to make the hose connections. The lower water outlet had to be moved about 8 inches to the right and it lines up perfectly with the stock hoses.
INTERCOOLER

To mount the intercooler I had to cut out the center support of the Rad support, this turned out fine because the intercooler now serves that purpose. It is mounted firmly to the top and bottom of the support. I had to notch an area by the corner of each headlight to make clearance for the silicone intercooler hoses one hose is a 2.5” 180 degree bend and the other is a 45 degree bend. The bumper support had to be slightly notched to make room for the edges of the intercooler. The power steering and AC lines had to be bent to make clearance for the piping as well. The AC lines are mounted on a bracket attached to the condenser, this bracket can be sliced in half to let you bend the lines.
AEM FIC
The AEM FIC is used to control the fuel and pull timing while the engine is in boost. Since the harness that is supplied with it isn’t really long enough to mount it inside the car I had to mount it underhood which really ins’t recommended either. To protect it I had a steel box made that was mounted sort of where the battery/ECU used to be. This left it in perfect position to connect to the factory computer.
GAUGES

I used Autometer Z seriec BOOST and OIL pressure gauges as well as an AEM wideband Air/Fuel monitor. The gauges are mounted in the left side vent next to the radio and the Wideband is mounted where the cigarette lighter was. I blocked off the vent with that special foil ducting tape. A small portion of the dash behind the trim panel had to be notched out to make clearance for the oil connection.

MANIFOLD, EXHAUST, LABOR

The log style exhaust manifold and 2.5” exhaust system were made by Pete at C&M Advanced Tuning in New Brunswick NJ. The flange was cut with a waterjet out of ½” mild steel. The flange design is still in the waterjet system and can be made for about 100 bucks material included. The exhaust system is finished off with a Vibrant flat black muffler. Pete also welded in the oil return bung on the oil pan and welded up the intercooler piping. I had to use 2 spark plug nonfoulers on the second o2 sensor or else it would throw a code after 30 miles.

PARTS QUICK LIST
Turbo: Garrett t3 style A/R.51 exhaust A/R .48 compressor
Wastegate: Tial 38mm
BOV: Greddy type rs
JoeP manual boost controller
Intercooler: Ebay
Injectors: NGM 360cc plug and play
Piggyback: AEM FIC

There was so much money spent on unneeded parts like fittings, a Cat, the Flowmaster muffler, that I could have saved a few hundred bucks by taking the time and buying only exactly what I needed. My thinking was just in case, I should have it, but you really only need exactly what you need, so research and buy only what will be put on the car. Below is a list of everything I spent since I started to paint the car.

2007 Accent Turbo Parts List

1) Paint 309.00
2) Tires 448.00

3) Garrett Turbo, BOV Greddy Type S
, Intercooler, Piping 500.00
4) Summit 249.53
Muffler, Cat, Battery Cables
5) Gary Rome B&M Shifter 142.15
6) KFXPerformance Strutbar 115.00
7) NoLimitMotorsports AEM 397.80
8) Summit 186.15
Battery, Lugs, Terminals
9) MetalsDepot Aluminum 48.70
10) PartsXpress Grommets, Caliper 37.45
11) Keefe Wiring, Breaker 88.31
12) JoeP Boost Controller + bracket 93.00
13) Jegs Gauges, boost, oil, fuel Press. 125.96
14) Harbor Freight Tools 57.93
15) Hyundai Parts People Manifold Gasket 21.66
16) NGMotorsports Fuel Injectors 415.32
17) Wastegate 150.00
18) Radiator+ Fans 119.98
19) Silicone couplers 147.07
20) Oil sandwich plate 73.00
21) Vacuum Block 34.99
22) Oil Line Kit 99.00
23) Fittings 29.68
24) Flange Elbow Tee Pipe 76.49
25) Flanges Gaskets Bungs 99.00
26) Phenolic Spacer +gaskets 75.00
27) ODB-II Reader+ Software 218.95
28) Waterjet Flange 50.00
29) 1/2" Flange Steel 63.00
30) Spark Plugs 21.84
31) Wideband + extra fittings 307.87
32) Turbo Manifold, Exhaust, Labor 1040.00
33) Dyno Tune 600.00

TOTAL 6441.83

Added a video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0xzZNp_828

Bump for an update. Tuning has been done, CLM Motorsports in Newark NJ did an awesome job and the car sounds mean. It's raining like c&d so I can't even get traction but it pulls like a mother.





Video of Dyno run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8SYuo8309c

Hit the cardomain too..

hey guys well its been awhile seen i posted here.. i wanted to sell the accent but changed my mind and i wanted to post a couple a pictures of what i did to my car.. I cant wait to put the rims back on im tired of my winter rims (stock 16) and tires haha well i sent my aem cold air dc strut and engin cover to the body shop to be painted white and i redid my headlights and i added 6000k hids and i have a couple of things in mind and will post more pics when its done so you guys tell me what you think!! anyways im glad to be back

Hello!

I`m from Slovenia so i`m sory cause my english it`s not very good

i have questions about EPS (electric power steering). Yesterday while i was driving, the EPS light turned on and a steering wheel became hard...I turned off the car and wait few seconds before to turned on again and then was everythig ok...till today!

what is wrong??? how to fix this problem???

tnx for answers

http://hyundaiforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8004



so just happened to come across this, maybe someone can help them out.

I AM NOT AFFILLIATED WITH THEM so dont ask me questions about it, I dont know what the deal is. I just want more vendors making stuff for our cars and thought I would share what i found.

Last night I recieved a phone call from my local Hyundia dealer.
(the place of purchase of Aug 2009)

The blunt of the phone call was about the 'agressive buyback program'
claiming they had too many new cars, and not enough used cars to meat
needs of the lot.

I going to let them entertain me with some info... I am completely happy
with my 2009 Accent Sport. The only thing I would change would be the color
(I got the light grey insted of the charcol grey) and the aftermarket intake and exhaust.
I also ddon't think I would have got the sport package, although I wanted the power
windows/locks... couldn't care about the other options....

Have you been contacted by Hyundia? and would you entertain the option?!

Thanks,
Chris

Ok.

I've been waiting for the 2011 Fiat 500 to come to the main land and i just spoke to my state Fiat dealer and it looks like i'll be saying by to the accent for the
all new Fiat 500 witch is alot smaller car for a lot less money then any hyundai accent will ever be. i'll post pic if and when i have it.

fiat.com

How big of rims can i fit on an 08 accent hatchback without any rubbing problems or speed gage problems, the rims my friend has are 18"

Yup, thats right i finally have the guts to do it . I'll be registering for some classes on March 20 to start with, since i have never done this in my life. I'm gonna put these SMA Coilovers to the test, and find out how good they are.

Now, i know a lot of people here have done this at least once, any advice? as far as maintenance, tires, etc, etc, et. I would like to have a good base of knowledge before i go there so i can concentrate on doing my best. I know since its just classes they wont ask too much of me but either way it'll be good hear some good advices on what not to do and what i should do.

Thanks!

EDIT

Here is the link if any1 would like to enter.
PDF FILE for registration.
AutoCross Texas Region

Important info about Autocross, thanks to omg grip, twitchaudiosystem, Westbound

Andy's Top Ten Autocross Driving TipsBy Andy Hollis

Book Jackie Stewarts Principles Perfomance Driving

Autocross to win by Dennis Grant FarNorthRacing.com

Solo2 Novice Handbook By Katie Hughes
Also Capital Driving Club

Here lately, I've been getting gouged by Hyundai for the oil plug crush washer and the 26300-35503 filter.  When I first bought the car, I could get the filter for around $6 and the gasket for about a buck.  Last time I bought the two at the dealer it was $8.00 for the filter and $1.89 for the freakin' crush washer!  

I needed a filter and the Kia dealer happened to be more convenient for me today, so I stopped in for a look.  $4.40 for the filter and $0.88 for the washer!  Is Hyundai that special that they can charge a premium, or is Kia that trashy that they can sell them for bargain basement prices?    Same fricken filter, different box.

Just wanted to give you guys a heads up in the event you also are being gogued by Hyundai on these things.  Just go in and ask for one for a Rio.




 

Anyone know how I can get the window rollers off? I can't find anything online, and I would prefer not to buy any tool. (I'm cheap. lol) I'm trying to get the door panels off to get to the speakers.

Hey all, I've been reading around the forum and saw someone mention issues with the automatic tranny on accents. I have a 2009 and i'm not sure if the transmission is slipping or if its just changing gears extra times because of the poor gear timing.

I mostly notice it when I get on the highway, it will shift to a higher gear (when I would consider the shift too early) and then has to shift back down to accelerate at all (around 90-110km/h). It doesn't really feel like slipping gears so much as the tranny shifting up too early.

Input?

Well I got the EOBD-II Galletto, and will be tuning my car next week to try and get the best out of the mods I have.

Well I've been looking at what's out there in the up and coming market, looks like there will be a lot to choice from in the small car market. Ford, Kia, Mazda, Honda, Hyundai, Chevy.... there are all comign out with some decent looking cars. Not all are coming out with 3dr Hatchbacks, (Ford) but they are out there in the europian markets. They did listen to the large car market for the requests of a smaller more fuel effiacant car with good options, wait isn't that we've been trying to tell them for a last few year? hmm guess you need to buy a $40K+ car first to be heard, lol Well we're gettign somewhere at least, maybe after the first year the cars that are only in 5 dorr versions will bring in the Euro 3 dr versions. Choices, so many choices......

This is all good for use Hyundai owners, because it causes Hyundai to step up in the game to keep competive. looks like the new Veloster is a nice step so far, sounds like it meybe the replacement for both the Accent and Tiburon market.

Replacign my current ride will still be a few years a way since I love the look and with everythign I want to do to it, it's cheaper tham getting a new car. Here's to buying a new car in 2 or 3 years! wait that's after Dec. 2012 won't matter we'll all be dead, lol

So,I got a nice 3 ton floor jack for Christmas...  I was going to crawl under the car today to wash the undercarriage but I couldn't find a suitable location to raise the sucker.


Where are you guys raising yours from?  The front cross member (directly behind the radiator) might work but it has the plastic splash shield attached.  Remove the shield and use that one?  The one behind the engine might be too far back.  Stick it in from the side and jack up one side of the car instead?


Another problem I'm running into is the jack is slightly too tall and the car (even at stock height) is too fricken low to the ground that my jack gets caught on the air dam if I try to slide it under from the front.

Sorry for such a stupid question but I figured I'd ask before I go lifting the car from somewhere I shouldn't. TIA.

As we've all noticed with Accents Most of us are getting HORRIBLE MPG with them and no where near what they should. I got tipped off by the service department this morning that alot of Accents from 2006 and Up I believe are going to be recalled in the near future and have the ECU's reprogrammed.

The service department tested one accent with the new programming and its getting average of 40+ MPG Compared to the 20 she was getting before. The Guy I was talking to already was briefed on this by hyundai and said all affected car owners will be getting a letter in the mail notifying you of the recall.

I got home today and there was a letter from Hyundai waiting for me. I thought it was like a roadside assistance card or something. So I open it and WOW, it was a $50 Visa gift card and it said "Thank you for buying your 2010 Accent". That's pretty **** sweet, and the best thing, the wife didn't see it

I've just broken 1k miles on my new Accent Blue. Referring to the service manual on the car, and per the dealer's instructions, 3k is the recommended interval. 3k for the first oil change seems a little high to me. Can anyone make a recommendation here?

Also, I understand that synthetic is not recommended early on. So when is the best time to start using synthetic?


Thanks.

Hey all, sorry been gone for so long. New position at work, with lots of work. Selling house, trips, etc etc... Also new Motorcycle


Well not much has changed in the Accent except the KMs 58,000+ and still climbing. Just getting ready for the spring and a new set of tires. As for performance MODs, well got just abotu everything now and the power is decent. This has become my daily, evenign out driver now since I have the Kawasaki for my sporter riding, that and I still can't get teh wife to ride the Kawasaki. hehe I will be looking at getting a paint job and some body work done to it maybe this summer to switch the body kit from a bolt on to a molded peice to get rid of the lines and gaps. Once the wheather clears up a bit more I'll be playign with my new camera to get some nice picks of both.

Glad to be back..

so i bought a used set of 2007 se wheels off a guy. i sanded them, painted them, and clearcoated them, they look great and i finally bought tires for them the other day. my first hard turn left i got a bad rubbing on the driver side. i took it back the the shop i work at where i got the tires and i had a smooth spot on the inner body of the car. it seemed like the tires i bought ( good year eagle gt) has a rim protector and it was rubbing. so i returned them and put on bf goodrich g force sport all season tires. they seem to fit a lot better. so i drove it again and it didnt seem to make any noise. so of coures today i turn hard left again and its rubbing again!!. stock size for me is a 175/70/14 . so i did my research for weeks. i ended up going with a 205/50/16. i checked on tire rack, discount tire , everwhere and its a perfect plus size for our car. so i dont know what to do?? should i try getting 205/45/16??its just starting to get expensive! i dont know if it will matter that much. it looks like its rubbing right in the middle of the tire?? is there any big differences between the racks or suspension between the gs and se?? i know the se has a sport tuned suspension. any help would be great. thanks!

Hi guys

Let's keep the story short cause I know not everyone likes to read paragraphs and paragraphs.

My first car: 2008 accent gls, and as many know they don't come with an aux-in. but I want to use an ipod-touch so I decided to get a new stereo and decided on this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1302200UB/Pio...b=detailed_info

And the closest diagrams that I can find to take of the fascia is the following of a 2006 accent (gls)?:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index.php?sh...1898&hl=aux

So now I just have a few questions to you pros that work on your cars a lot.
1. Is that diagram accurate?
2. What do I need to prepare? Screwdrivers? Tape? Etc.?
3. Is there anything in particular that I should watch out for?

I know maybe half of this is covered, but I don't want to grave-dig and this is my first time trying something on a car. I really have no idea what to do nor have I ever seen a dash get taken apart. Total noob
Thanks in advance guys!

On Wednesday night I hit a pole which will likely be the end of my 08 Accent. I am waiting for insurance to figure out what they want to do with it but it will likely end up as a part out situation for me. Car only had 14k on it and had an AEM CAI and the KFX front strut bar as far as aftermarket. I will definitely miss the car for the gas mileage and feel of driving it. I will post a FS thread if it comes time or I can be reached via PM if you would like to ask about anything. I havent been around here much moer than just finding info and trying to help out when I have time.

I will post a couple pics tonight. It was a dark blue 5-speed SE model.

can someone check HMA for p2096? im pretty sure its 'post cat to rich' can you double check?

Since my Accent Blue did not come with a radio, I obtained one on ebay. The radio has a USB connection in the rear but alas, it is not a standard USB. I thought a regular printer cable would fit based on photos of the rear, but of course that would be too easy. It appears to be an unusual interface and I can't find one that matches from standard cables. I'm guessing that it must be some kind of proprietary connector.

Anyone know what kind of USB cable I need for this radio and where I can get it? I checked the OEM parts site and they have no such item.

If anyone has one they want to discard, maybe we can work something out.

Thanks

i get the feeling it's a particularly young crowd here, especially due to how inexpensive an accent is in the usa.

i'll start:

25.

but based on other car forums i've posted on, i'm going to guess i'm older than the average person on this board.

Spent the entire day today working on my car. Figured I would send some pictures and just write about how its going and give some credit to the people who did it first. Within the past 2 weeks I have added a stainless 2.25 magnaflow catback (Blood Ninja), K&N Intake with front hose removed (Pastor K), and previously had the windows tinted.

Today I painted my headlights black (thank you Rondy), installed an inline output converter, made a sub-woofer enclosure, started to mount the amp and run the wires, and got everything ready for my floor leds (hoosieraccent and o0kat0o's posts helped a bit with this). Tomorrow I am planning on painting some interior things (such as the shifter numbers white etc.), doing the intake coolant by-pass, new spark plugs, and finishing up everything else.

All of these things are on the forums already I believe, but wanted to pass some of my experiences with them on if it helps anyone.

First off, a 2.25 exhaust makes a huge difference on pick-up and mpg when the computer adjusts, especially when you go along with an intake modification. I am getting, with the manual, about 370 miles per 10 gallons on 70% highway 30% suburbs.

If you decide to paint your headlights, prying the clear plastic off at first can be a huge pain. I found a hair dryer to work very very well, simply start at the inside edge, heat it, pry it, and then go along down opposite sides heating for around 15 seconds then prying every 3 inch section down.

As far as installing the inline converter, all you have to do is peel back the wire covering (tomorrow I will go see what wires I used) and tie the converter wire around it and electrical tape it. I tested the stock head unit with a 500 watt sub and 300 watt amp and it sounds very good for only 60 dollars in the new units (Dual makes them and they sell at the Walmarts around here) and maybe 8 dollars in materials for the enclosure we made.

Oh and, if your undecided where to put an amp, mine secures very nicely onto the back of my driver side back seat with screws, and looks nice (Ill get pictures when this is all done.)

Now just need rims, belly pan, led swap (blazianenigma), strut bar, and probably the hood deflector for looks and I will be content for now =) When I do, do, the belly pan I will post a DIY.

Thanks to everyone that posted about all of these things, makes these mods very simple to plan and do.

I slid 5 mph kinda sideways into a snow bank, but the snow's so packed out here it was pretty much like rock. No visible damage at all except the left wheel was slightly bent inward, but apparently the subframe is bent, the strut is destroyed, and the control arm is bent.

Estimated repair cost: at least $2,000.

That means I will have spent about $6,000 on this car in the last 2 years. I'll be looking to get a used Subaru in the next year as a replacement. I'll still be around for a while, but I'm starting to tire of this car's too-light-and-not-enough-grip-(even-with-awesome-tires)-for-its-own-good-ness.
Have a 09 Mitsubishi Galant as a rental. FWD as well, but it weighs a LOT and holds the road a LOT better due to the added weight. But as far as interior goes, I'm surprised. The Accent has a nicer interior, hands down. Stepping into the Galant is like stepping into a time machine back to 1990. They've made no effort to update the interior.

Anyway, I'll be driving the Accent for the rest of the year (most likely), but I'll be looking into a Subaru Outback or Subaru Legacy Outback.

Next weekend I'll probably have 3,000 miles on the Accent I got 2 months ago & I thought I remembered the dealer mentioning an intitial inpection at 3,000 miles. Wondering what it costs & what they check I looked through all the papers & saw nothing referring to it. I thought I'd just call them & ask but I tend to not trust most dealers for an honest answer 100% of the time. I like being informed as possible before speaking to the service department. If no inspection is due I'll just change the oil & filter myself & be done with it.

Just thought I would share my ideas on here, anyway I am planning on some "mods" to my 08 Accent, mostly to try and improve highway mpg. Right now I am driving almost 3k miles a month, and I figure if I am going to work on my car I might as well work towards MPG's.

Here are my current plans:

Home Made Full Moon Hubcaps (Will try and paint them nice too so it does not look too funny.)
Mandrel Bent 2.25 Exhaust.
K&N Filter with larger wheel well piping (keeping the stock airbox after a lot of thought.)
Increased Tire Size (Have not gone out and measured yet but hoping on 195/75/14's. From what I have calculated online it would give me around 1.8 inches larger diameter and around 300 rpm drop at 60 mph.)
Belly Pan (Trying to smooth the bottom with a covering, no idea on the material yet.)
0w20 Mobile 1 Synthetic oil.

My budget is around 600 over about 4 months, and it actually looks like I can hit even a little under that. It is going to be really slow to get done, but I am set on it.

As of now I am getting about 32 mpg city and 35 mpg highway with the 5 speed (wish there was a 6th speed). Hoping to hit 42 mpg highway at least, which would save me, in a year's time, almost the cost of my entire budget.

Anyone have comments or ideas?

It's about time that my springs came in. I bought some B&G suspensions springs http://b-gsuspension.com/displayResults.php5

I paid $229 shipped from http://www.gripmotorsports.com/

It took a month to ship because they were on back-order (I knew that they were on back-order before I ordered them). anyways here you go:

Just installed a DIY Torque Dampener. The “Torque Dampener” you see in the pics is part of an industrial door closure device from a door off an old hospital that is being converted into an office building. I had to cut and drill the bracket so it would fit on the strut tower and I had to drill larger holes in the “Torque Dampener” to fit the all-thread and 8mm nuts. I placed the bracket on the bolt used by the strut brace and just tightened it down and only had to buy the two bolts, two split washers, and that nut from Home depot. All the other hardware I already had. The whole thing cost me less than $2! But I am thinking I will shorten that bracket by ½” so it is closer to the strut tower and not so close to the A/C line. It sees to do what it is supposed to do, but then, I have nothing to compare it to. BTW, anyone know what that black, cylindrical weight that sits on the motor mount is for? I removed it because I couldn’t discover what it does besides simply attach to the motor mount. I could be wrong. I am thinking I might replace it, and using a longer bolt, attach the “Torque Dampener” to the top of it and that will solve my A/C line issue. Anyway, feel free to comment. Any constructive and useful comments/criticism are welcome.

[attachment=16684:Torque_Dampener01.jpg]
[attachment=16685:Torque_Dampener02.jpg]
[attachment=16686:Torque_Dampener03.jpg]

Working on just getting the angle and clearance. Yes I know the bar is too short. Just brainstorming at this point.

Not the best pics, most of the pics I took came out like crap. I need a new digital camera. With the proper tools and the right work environment this should only take about 1 hour to 1.5 hours. I also have some before and after measurements somewhere, but I think I left them on my desk at work. It is only slightly over 1" all around, but that was before driving around and I figure they will settle a little bit.

Here is a close up of before:
[attachment=16554:1___befo...close_up.jpg]
[attachment=16555:2___before_shop.jpg]

And here is the left and right rear being removed.
[attachment=16556:3___left..._removal.jpg]
[attachment=16557:4___righ..._removal.jpg]

And a comparison of the Megan Racing Springs and the stock springs.
[attachment=16558:5___side_by_side.jpg]

The front right spring being installed.
[attachment=16559:6___fron...nstalled.jpg]

And finally the after shot.
[attachment=16560:7___after_shop.jpg]

The guys at All American Muffler & Performance has worked on my last 4 or 5 vehicles. I have a pretty good relationship with them, they are always willing to let me use their place for these fun projects. And for some reason my car ended up with a custom Magnaflow exhaust while it was waiting for Firestone to do the alignment .... go figure that one out??

Hi! So i have all manual everything- which is great! I do want a remote trunk release. I know the accents higher than blue come with them right next to the fuel door and am wondering about the cost associated with installing a trunk release there as well. Is it already cabled? Any ideas??

Bought her new on 12/13/09 and she has been my daily driver since.

So far I have had 1 problem, that is still awaiting the part to come in from the dealership. They had to order the switch for the windshield wiper control. Other than that anything else that I can think of ... I caused by doing some mods.

I was looking back and my gas log .... I have seen consistently about 30-32 mpg even with freeway speeds of 70-80 mph. I am thinking aftermarket cruise control would be a good investment. I drive 60 miles each way to work, mostly freeway. I could probably pay for it in savings over a few months.

Just wanted to share my happiness with this little car .... loving it!!

Hey Forum Goers,

Anyone happen to know if the 16 inch tire has a different recommended psi vs the 14 according to the door placard? I think 14s are around 31 not able to check for sure till later.

Also, I am planning on doing some lighting mods... and am stuck between blue or red (floor lights and led swaps for the dash). I am leaning towards red, but don't know how it will feel staring at all that red at night, what do you think? (I know blue seems to look amazing already, maybe a dark red would look nice? Having a hard time visualizing it)

Will be uploading outside video and in car video soon.

Here's some pics from today's meet. Enjoy.

I own a 2009 Accent and I was thinking of changing the side view mirrors. I've never done this before and I was wondering if there were specific types of mirrors that fit and where to get them. I found plenty of mirrors that interest me but I have no clue if they will fit or not.

curiously wondering if the lights/reflectors on the sides of the car in front of the door actually do anything
and how do you get them off?!?!?!?!
id love to paint mine red, if they dont do jack.
i wanna try and pop them off but im afraid to break it

Ok guys hold your breath.


For those of you who are upset there is no longer an SR model and missed buying it in 07.
Here is your chance.

Call your local dealer to have them ship you this one. New never registared and cheaper than it was in 07. Comes with full 5 year warranty.


NEW 07 ACCENT SR

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