Many people do not realise that Hyundai U.S.A. have provided a free online Workshop Manual for all the Hyundai models that are sold in America.

To use this click :-
http://www.hmaservice.com/authenticator/lo...h%2Fdefault.asp
Register (Internet Explorer required).....log-on; click `Service Information` & enter your car`s details & click the `Shop` tab.

It might be an idea to bookmark this to your favourites........& remember you can print off sections (or the whole manual!) as required.

Cheers,
Nick.

Data Trouble Code Retrieval for Alpha Engines

With the increasing rate of people wanting to know the process of carrying out their own "code checking" precoedures, I have developed an article which will tell you step by step, what to do when trying to eliminate problems, using the on board diagnostic system.

Data Link connectors:

Accent 95-99 - above the right most switch panel
Accent 00-Current - below the lower dash shroud
Getz - below the lower dash shroud

Data Link connector configuration:



Data Trouble Code Retrieval (using M alfunction I ndicator L amp):

1. Ignition switch on (do not start)
2. Ground the L-wire (bridge No. 15 pin and No. 4 pin) in the Data Link Connector for 2.5-7 seconds.
3. If there is no fault, code "4444" will be indicated.
4. Each code is repeated infinitely until the next step is ordered.
5. To order the next code to apper, you are required to ground the L-wire again for 2.5-7seconds, after that the next code follows.
The last output consists of the code for end of "code output" which is "3333". After grounding the L-wire again for 2.5-7 seconds, the diagnostic mode is left.

Remember: There will always be four digits in each code output.

Code List is as follows:

1.3L SOHC TYPE 1
MIL_________________Check Items

1122________________ ECM or Harness
1234________________ MFI control relay or harness
3128________________ O2 Sensor
5111________________ MAP sensor
5112________________ Air temp sensor
3153________________ Throttle position sensor
3144________________ Idle speed actuator
3112________________
3145________________ Engine Temperature Sensor
3147________________ Camshaft position sensor
3159________________ Vehicle speed sensor
1169________________ Ignition system, cylinder 1&4 A output
3135________________ Evap. purge control solenoid valve
3138________________ Air/Con relay
1169________________ Ignition system, cylinder 2&3 B output
4151________________ Air/Fuel correction
3112________________ Injector No.1
3116________________ Injector No.2
3235________________ Injector No.3
3234________________ Injector No.4

2222________________ Start of output
3333________________ End of output
4444________________ No fault


1.5L (SOHC/DOHC) TYPE 2 & 3

MIL__________ Comment____________________Component

1234____________ECM RAM malfunction_____________ ECM
1233____________ECM ROM malfunction_____________ ECM
3145____________ECT sensor circuit malfunction______ ECT Sensor
3146____________IAT sensor circuit malfunction______ IAT Sensor
3153____________TPS sensor circuit malfunction______ TPS Sensor
3112____________Injector #1 circuit malfunction______ Injector #1
3234____________Injector #2 circuit malfunction______ Injector #2
3116____________Injector #3 circuit malfunction______ Injector #3
3235____________Injector #4 circuit malfunction______ Injector #4
3117____________MAF sensor circuit malfunction______ MAF sensor
5111(TYPE3 ONLY) MAP sensor circuit malfunction______ MAP sensor
3114____________Idle control valve opening coil______ ISC actuator
_________________circuit malfunction
3122____________Idle control valve closing coil_______ ISC actuator
________________circuit malfunction
3128____________Oxygen sensor circuit malfunction___ Heated O2 sensor
4151___________________________________________Air/Fuel ratio
4153____________Air/Fuel leaking or injector clogging__Air/Fuel ratio
4154___________________________________________Air/Fuel ratio
3135____________EVAP canister purge solenoid valve__EVAP Can. purge sol.
________________circuit malfunction____________solenoid
3211____________Knock sensor circuit malfunction____ Knock sensor
3232____________CKP sensor circuit malfunction______Crankshaft pos. sensor
3222____________CMP sensor circuit malfunction______Camshaft pos. sensor
3159____________VSS circuit malfunction____________Vehicle speed sensor
3137____________Battery voltage incorrect___________Battery
4133____________Fuel pump relay malfunction________Fuel pump relay
3149____________A/C compressor switch or relay_____Air Conditioner
________________malfunction
3221____________A/C fan malfunction_______________Air Conditioner
3133____________A/C Cooling fan malfuction_________Air Conditioner

Type 1__1.3L SOHC
Type 2__1.5L SOHC
Type 3__1.5L DOHC

Remember: These are only guidelines to aid you in your diagnosis. They will not provide a definite answer as to what component you should replace, but moreso, identify in which area you are experiencing problems.
I will personally hold no responsibility for any failures that may occur to user carelessness!

Actuation Test

There is also an actuation test which can be carried out in order for you to determine whether your actuators are operating correctly.

Actuator Control Sequence Procedure

1. The L-wire (No. 15 pin) in the data link connector has to be grounded before turning the ignition key on (DO NOT START).
2. Turn the ignition key on (DO NOT START) and then disconnect the grounded wire from pin No. 15, then the actuator activation sequence will begin, starting from the fuel pump relay.

NOTE: Each actuator will be stopped after activating 6 times

3. Once the actuator has activated 6 times, you will then be required to ground the No. 15 pin again to follow on to the next actuator in the sequence, which will be listed below:
Test Item__________________Fault Code
1. Evap can. purge valve solenoid_______________1322
2. ISC vAlve solenoid_________________________1321
3. No. 2 injector _____________________________1315
4. No. 3 injector _____________________________1314
5. No. 4 injector _____________________________1313
6. No. 1 injector _____________________________1312

4. If the actuator responds normally, code "4444" (No Fault Code) will be indicated by the MIL.
If there is any faults, the relevant trouble code will be displayed via the MIL.

Sorry, I forgot I had only shared this info. with S-Coupe owners! :-

Click here

Cheers,
Nick.

Hey...

I was wondering if anyone could help me out.

I recently purchased a 1999 Accent. When I first purchased the vehicle the Check Engine Light was illuminated. I was told that the light would turn on and off due to a fault O2 sensor. I was also told that this started after some exhaust work was done and that the previous owner just didn''t get around to replacing the O2 sensor.

Before purchasing it I wanted to make sure that the problem really was just an O2 sensor, so I had a mechanic read the code and confirm that it was the O2 sensor.

Since then I have replaced the same O2 sensor twice [thinking that my original replacement was faulty] only to see the Check Engine Light come on after a few KM of driving.

Does anyone have any suggestions/ideas?

Thanks!

I'm not terribly good with cars and unfortunately my 95 accent that was already running rough quit on me the other day. It was hard getting it started again and it would barely accelerate topping off at 20mph with an air rushing noise. Googling it suggested a vacuum seal problem which I hoped was cheap but the mechanic said my catalytic converter was broken/clogged and needed to be replaced at a muffler shop for around $300, which is money I'm not likely to have for a while. A friend got the catalytic converter stolen out from under his car and its still running so my understanding it isn't completely necessary (I know its rougher on the environment but we don't have inspections here in Ohio and walking in the cold sucks). I was hoping I could just remove it till I have the money to have a new one installed at least.

It seems like removing it just requires sawing the catalytic converter out and replacing it with a bit of pipe and some claps. Anyone have thoughts/tips on this?

http://www.neuroticvelocity.8m.com/cgi-bin...ew_album/144055
Not done yet, but its fun as **** getting there. car also underwent an auto to manual swap. I did all the work noone touched it. if you have questions about the swap i can tell you everything

Hey everyone, New to this forum, and new to the hyundai scene... I was looking for some motors and trannys for my first gen accent, but cant find anywhere to purchase new motors... Can anyone help me with a site, or a phone number. I live in canada... I was wondering if the hyundai scoupe turbo motor would fit into the bonnet?

was replacing my timong belt anf the bearings in the pullies where very dry.

I priced new ones and they were $100!!!!


So i got a very small screwdriver, jewlers type one and very carefully priced the side shield off ther bearing.

gave an tap and dray powder came out. gave it a quike spray of penatrine and then dryed it and then packed it with greese by applying it to the bearing as i turned it and then replaced the shield.

I was reading the online manual from hyundai, thanks for the tip.

i chose the 1.6 DOHC accent inth ehope that it will be similar to my Australian 98 twin cam excel.

It says to put no1 on TDC on the compression stroke, but am i right in assuming that the crank wont matter if its 360 degs out cause the ignition timeing is run from the cam shafts?

so if it set the cam shafts up to the mark and then put crand to no1 TDC then it should be ok wont it?

it is not ok how can i find out wether its the compression and the exhast strock (not like its go a dizzy to tell by not is there)? :-)

thanks in adance for any help.

I went through lots and lots of pages, and I could not manage to find what I am trying to do.

The head unit is a HM-3764 cd changer control cdc. I don't have the cd changer installed, but I'd like to use my mp3 player through the radio, but wired, not modulated. I just can't seem to find out if anyone has attempted this before.......

Any help would be appreciated.

Im always trying to find the easy way to dosomething within reason, Now on my 1999 accent the timing cover goes down around the main pulley, is it possible to cut across the bottom of the cover and remove it over the pulley, then replace the timing belt without turning the engine and of course marking everything , or if you cant do this for what reason should you have to remove the bottom pulley?

Hi can anyone tell me if the 1997 accent 1.3 has a different manual gearbox than the 1.5 litre version with different ratios? cause I need to change my box and i dont want to end up with a sluggish car thanks!

Hey guys,

I joined here a year ago but it's my first post.

My 97 Accent starting having troubles ever since Midas put in a few quarts of the wrong fluid. Since then I had them flush it out. I also drained the pan and replaced the filter and 4 more quarts afterwards.

The shift problems seem to occur after several minutes of driving. The car will fall out of OD and will shift from 1 to 2 at high rpm's, usually different after each start up. Eventually it goes in to fail safe mode and stays in 3rd gear until either you restart it or it cools down. From a stop i have to shift it manually and it will go into 2nd though not 1st. Every now and again, especiallyif I take it near 70 mph and decelerate it will downshift harder (into 2nd?) and feel like its braking.

Anyway, eventually the check engine light came onand I took it to the dealer to get the error codes for free, which read:

temp sensor
input speed sensor
output speed sensor
incorrect shift ratio 1-2
incorrect shift ratio 3-4
and a tcu error (?)

I dont have the print out in front of me. I was told that one problem could set off codes for the other problems.

Since with all of these errors the trans computer seemed like a likely culprit and I found one for 25 bucks, im going to swap it out and see what it does. strangely I had noticed what looked like atf fluid around the cables of the tcu connectors under the dash last year. Perhaps it somehow dripped off the speedometer cable?

My next step would be to check the TPS and the other sensors(and I noted someones recommendation to try cleaning the speed sensors and reonneting them).

Any other advice or suggestions?

Thanks,
J-bob

the check engine lights lights up and this code appear p0478 pressure control solenoid valve electrical, my accent is the g4ek 1.5 sohc, what is tihis problem about?

hi all no to this forum
got my daughter am accent 1300 to learn to drive in
feels like the clutch is slipping, took a quick look
looks like i will have to remove the main cross member to take the gearbox out
is that right, not got a repair manual yet

I left the Accent 1987 on the driveway for one week and when I started the utomatic gear shift was stiff that i had resistance to switch for R or D. I drove for about 15min and is still stiff. Does anyone know what happen?

Someone said that possibly there is not enough fluid or is leaking.

Thanks

Michal

I measured once and i get about 26. I was hoping for more, but I'm satisfied.

I have a 1998 model Hyundai Accent Coupe Si 1.3 12v. Picked it up a while ago with clutch failure, replaced the clutch, and ever since then, the car runs badly.

At idle it runs lumpy, not smooth.

If you try to rev it hard past 4000rpm, it rarely will do it, power keeps dropping off.

If you rev it slowly, you can get it past 4000rpm, but it won't rev to the limiter.

There is virtually nothing I haven't changed on this car now.

Throttle Position Sensor changed
Air flow sensor changed
injectors changed
Entire inlet manifold changed
Fuel Pressure regulator changed
fuel pump changed
coil pack changed
new spark plugs
replaced HT leads
fuel filter

I thought there might have been a bad earth since the gearbox was removed, but theres no signs of any unconnected wiring.

'Check Engine' light comes on when you first turn on ignition, once started, the light goes out and doesn't ever come on.

Checked for air leaks on the trunking from the air box to the inlet manifold.

Checked for air leaks on all the breather hoses to the inlet manifold.

The fuel is good.

I'm at a loss as to what the problem could be, this was supposed to be a clutch change, fix for MOT test and then sell on, 4 months later, i've still got it!

Has anyone got any ideas...... please!

hey guys im brand new to this forums, but here is my problem

when my car warms up it just blantly stalls, and when it cools down it comes back to life, and starts which is usally 15-20 mins. So i have been reading and come ot the facts that it might be these possible things.

1) Crankshaft Sensor
2) 02 Sensor
3) Ignition Coil
4) Ignition switch

anyone know if these might be the cause or maybe try something diff.

i have replaced my spark plugs and wires and my cable ends

and tommorrow im replacing my fuel filter.

thanks for the replies in advance.

Hi People,

Only new to this forum, but I'm hoping someone can help me with this problem.

My daughter's 1997 Hyundai Excel (Accent) is giving me a major headache. Parked it in the shed to carry out a general service, and now it won't start.
The fuel pump works fine with battery power connected to it.
With the control relay "unplugged" and ignition "off", I have 12 volt power at harness terminals 5 and 4. I don't have power "across" terminals 2 and 4, but I do have power across terminals 5 and 1. ???
With the control relay plugged in and ignition on I have 12 volt power at terminals 1 3 4 and 5.
With the fuel pump relay "unplugged" and ignition off, I have 12 volt power at harness terminal 1. With the ignition on I have power across terminals 1 and 3, but only 6 volts.
I have changed the control relay with a known good one, and also a brand new one bought yesterday.
Still the same problem.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to what else to look for.

Thanks in advance.

Hey guys new here but looks like u offer good info I have a 1997 Hyundai Accent with the 1.5L SOHC and my check engine light came on it was a crank position sensor code i replaced the sensor that code went away now i have a random misfire code and a cylinder 1 and cylinder 4 misfire code had an extra coil laying around so i swapped that and it didnt solve my problem it also has new plugs wires and an air filter hope someone here can give me a hand have a great day

Hey, I don't know if anyone else has had this problem, but my trunk will not close properly.

If you try to close it normally it just hits anf bounces back up. I noticed the sheet metal actually vibrate when this happens. If I try slamming it, by pushing down in the right spot it will close.

I have already done checked this out and tried to adjust the latch, but it hasn't really done anything, and it does not appear to be misaligned. So I am thinking the latch itself is the issue, maybe it is too stiff etc. Is this fixable, or is it worth trying to get another latch from the junkyard.

Thanks

Sometimes when I turn off my '96 excel, the engine will keep firing, even though it is completely off. I can take the key out and walk away from the car, but the engine is still putting along somehow. Most of the time it is just for a second or two but other times It goes for about a minute. If I try and start the car when it is doing this, the engine just revs. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I've had a lot of stalling problems as well, so it might be related.

hey guys when i take off my oil cap (1.5 litre 12valve engine) while its running i can feel huge puffs of air being blown out with my hand, im guessing that means something is really phucked?

Hey everyone, i'm new to the forum im from Australia and im heavily into modifying cars.

Im purchasing a cheap run about 5speed 95 hyundai excel with the 12 valve single cam engine.

I know nothing about this engine im looking to find out more about its strength and if the stock engine can handle boost? And how strong is the 5speed box? What compression is the engine?

My weekend car is a gm-holden vl commodore (aussie car) with an rb30et which i turbocharged myself and is making over 400hp at the rears so i know a bit about forced induction.

Hi gurus,

I have a 1999 hyundai accent GL. I live in California and I have to to smog test before selling the car. I have been to 3 smog test stations, but they could not connect it to the computer. They say the connector is not working.

After then, I took my car to the dealer. The dealer says everything seems to be fine with the connector. May be the smog test center does not have a software which is suitable to hyundai. Then he gave an test center phone number to try. I had been to this recommended test center, but he also could not connect it.

Please help me, if anyone encountered similar problems before.

Thanks in advance

myhyundaiaccent

I have a Hyundai Accent 1999, which does not come with a tachometer. I bought a tachometer and am having trouble installing it. I tried to use these two guides http://en.allexperts.com/q/Hyundai-Repair-...h-Install-1.htm http://en.allexperts.com/q/Hyundai-Repair-...h-Install-2.htm however these do not come with diagrams to show me where to put the wire that reads the RPMs. If anyone knows where I could find these diagrams that would be greatly appreciated.

Hello to everyone!
CEL,(MIL) does not work on my 1999 Accent GLS.Light bulb is OK,wiring is OK and You suggested to me to put a car to OBD ll scanner.I done it,but man told me that there is not communication between OBD ll scanner and car computer(ECU).Also i need to reset air bag,and service man can not to do anything to solve problems with my car.
What else to do,please?I am desperate!!!!

I was pulling out from work and noticed all of the sudden my gear shift was extremely lose and that it would only move up and down but with absolutely zero traction. Also the car seemed to be stuck in 2nd gear. So I pulled apart the console and totally removed the UP Down (top on transmission cable) and saw that it was snapped almost at the end by the transmission. I also removed the transmission side as well.

This seems like a pretty easy replacement, any options or like Hyunda models that would have the same cable that would make for an easy swap?

Or better yet, any one have one online that they could get for me?

I am going to check the salvage yard today (in 2nd gear) to see if I can find a match.

THANKS!

I was driving my 01 accent yesterday and randomly in the middle of the road my check engine light came on. i got it home and checked the oil and that was good and it started to sputter and sound like a lawnmower. if anyone could give me some input on what could be wrong that would be great

I bought my accent about 6 months ago, its 1998 LSi 1.3, have had no problems at all until the battery died on me, turned out to be a loose terminal which was sparking and discharged it. Anyhow, since sorting the battery, by getting a new terminal, everything is just as it was, except that the airbag warning light is on all the time. It does seem to have been triggered by the battery dying. Is there any way of resetting it or fixing the problem without taking to main dealer and paying stupid money??

Thanks
Andrew

Hey guys,

Great site BTW!!! Ok so here is my question..

I have a 1998 Hyundai Accent Sport..auto trans with the overdrive button on econ button. Right now my car is sitting because it does not have reverse..park works fine. WHen I put the car into drive and pull away all seems fine until the car has to shift to the next gear...When it tries to shift to the next gear the rpms go up..as if it is not going to make it to the next gear..I left off the gas..press the gas slowly and it finally jumps into the next gear with a thud. I can drive it like this as long as the overdrive button is off...when the overdrive button is on it tries to switch up another gear (into overdrive I assume) and I have to go through the whole process of letting off the gas..pressing it slowly and finally it'll go up into OD. Now some background info...this problem happened suddenly...there was never any tranny slipping prior to the reverse going and the other problems. The tranny worked well then one day I put it into reverse to back into a parking spot and boom no reverse..no thuds when I switched to reverse..no slipping prior no signs that there may be a problem at all. Does anyone have any advice before I take her to a shop...I'd hate to get rooked into buying a new tranny if it doesn't need one.

Thx Jack

TRANS BASICALLY HAS NO 2ND AND 4TH GEAR, AUTO, I THINK IT NEEDS A NEW TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE. HELP!!!

heya, i got a 1995 Hyundai Accent 1.3i, what exactly can you do to them performance wise? ive already fitted a Powertec SL1 induction kit, Rage voltage stabaliser, Performance spark plugs and ignition leads, a Powerboost valve with pipercross filter & a Cobra Sport Performance back box.

Is there anything else you can do to them? and if so what? and where can you get the parts?

Thanks peoples

so my girlfriend has a 98 accent that just hit 100,000, had it for a few months and check engine light came on, a few codes were for the tranny, dnt rememebr the specific ones. so planned to do a tranny flush. before we did it, it started slipping only from a stop and then did this every time. did a tranny flush, worked great for a week and started doin it again. now it doesnt do it but shifts really funny, like i drove it and it would not get out of 2nd gear, auto tranny btw, but then stopped at a red light, then went at green and seemed to drive almost fine, but acteed funny in like 3dr or 4th, so yes i did go in gear, so really it just acts funny and we stopped drining it cuz it wont get out of 1st or 2nd now. im guessing its the transsmission contol module, or the pulse generator.
i foudn this online

Check-engine light: Check-engine light illumination on SOHC models might be caused by a problem with the transmission control module (TCM). Repair includes replacement if the TCM. (1996-98).

please let me know anything you have to say or if u have had this problem!!

thanks
-mike

Hello all new here!

Hopefully someone can help. We have a 99 hyundai gsi 4 cyl standard

The wire plugs cap and rotor were all changed and when it's damp or raining it won't start but will no prob when jumped started by popping the clutch in first?

Also when driving long distances usually around the 1 1/2 - 2 hour mark it starts sputtering and shuts off.If we let it sit for a bout 20-30 minutes it will start back up and let us drive another half hour and starts doing it again.

Fuel filter was changed also as well as the gas tank filler neck and sensors, air filters etc......

No codes are showing at the moment and it's hard to diagnose because we don't want to drive around for 2 hours waiting for this to happen.

Any help would be appreciated my wife is afraid of taking the car anywhere in case it won't start or maybe sh'ell get stuck on the side of the road

Thanks

I have a rather odd problem with my 1996 Excel. The problem has been with it ever since I bought it over a year ago. It will run absolutely fine when the tank is less than half full, but when I fill it, it just wants to die. I can't make it out of the petrol station without it stalling once, and until I use about 1/4 of the tank, it will stall, sputter, knock, ping, and has acceleration flat spots and running issues. The further the tank empties, the better it runs. In fact, when it is running on fumes, it runs the best; not a problem at all. Now, I never put any more than 20 litres in at a time when i refill.

I have had the tappet gasket replaced, the timing belt replaced, the timing checked and realigned, a new fuel filter installed, air filter, oil filter, new fuel pump, and new spark plugs and leads. I've put in additives for the engine and fuel, done an oil change, all fluids are fine and there is no oil leak. I regularly check the spark plugs for oil and they're fine too. The autoelectrician couldn't find any electrical problems. The problem still exists (but less) when I put in higher octane fuel.

What could cause a car to hate having fuel in it?

So I'm the new owner of a 4dr 1996 Accent

The car was great over the years but recently developed a cou