Data Trouble Code Retrieval for Alpha Engines

With the increasing rate of people wanting to know the process of carrying out their own "code checking" precoedures, I have developed an article which will tell you step by step, what to do when trying to eliminate problems, using the on board diagnostic system.

Data Link connectors:

Accent 95-99 - above the right most switch panel
Accent 00-Current - below the lower dash shroud
Getz - below the lower dash shroud

Data Link connector configuration:



Data Trouble Code Retrieval (using M alfunction I ndicator L amp):

1. Ignition switch on (do not start)
2. Ground the L-wire (bridge No. 15 pin and No. 4 pin) in the Data Link Connector for 2.5-7 seconds.
3. If there is no fault, code "4444" will be indicated.
4. Each code is repeated infinitely until the next step is ordered.
5. To order the next code to apper, you are required to ground the L-wire again for 2.5-7seconds, after that the next code follows.
The last output consists of the code for end of "code output" which is "3333". After grounding the L-wire again for 2.5-7 seconds, the diagnostic mode is left.

Remember: There will always be four digits in each code output.

Code List is as follows:

1.3L SOHC TYPE 1
MIL_________________Check Items

1122________________ ECM or Harness
1234________________ MFI control relay or harness
3128________________ O2 Sensor
5111________________ MAP sensor
5112________________ Air temp sensor
3153________________ Throttle position sensor
3144________________ Idle speed actuator
3112________________
3145________________ Engine Temperature Sensor
3147________________ Camshaft position sensor
3159________________ Vehicle speed sensor
1169________________ Ignition system, cylinder 1&4 A output
3135________________ Evap. purge control solenoid valve
3138________________ Air/Con relay
1169________________ Ignition system, cylinder 2&3 B output
4151________________ Air/Fuel correction
3112________________ Injector No.1
3116________________ Injector No.2
3235________________ Injector No.3
3234________________ Injector No.4

2222________________ Start of output
3333________________ End of output
4444________________ No fault


1.5L (SOHC/DOHC) TYPE 2 & 3

MIL__________ Comment____________________Component

1234____________ECM RAM malfunction_____________ ECM
1233____________ECM ROM malfunction_____________ ECM
3145____________ECT sensor circuit malfunction______ ECT Sensor
3146____________IAT sensor circuit malfunction______ IAT Sensor
3153____________TPS sensor circuit malfunction______ TPS Sensor
3112____________Injector #1 circuit malfunction______ Injector #1
3234____________Injector #2 circuit malfunction______ Injector #2
3116____________Injector #3 circuit malfunction______ Injector #3
3235____________Injector #4 circuit malfunction______ Injector #4
3117____________MAF sensor circuit malfunction______ MAF sensor
5111(TYPE3 ONLY) MAP sensor circuit malfunction______ MAP sensor
3114____________Idle control valve opening coil______ ISC actuator
_________________circuit malfunction
3122____________Idle control valve closing coil_______ ISC actuator
________________circuit malfunction
3128____________Oxygen sensor circuit malfunction___ Heated O2 sensor
4151___________________________________________Air/Fuel ratio
4153____________Air/Fuel leaking or injector clogging__Air/Fuel ratio
4154___________________________________________Air/Fuel ratio
3135____________EVAP canister purge solenoid valve__EVAP Can. purge sol.
________________circuit malfunction____________solenoid
3211____________Knock sensor circuit malfunction____ Knock sensor
3232____________CKP sensor circuit malfunction______Crankshaft pos. sensor
3222____________CMP sensor circuit malfunction______Camshaft pos. sensor
3159____________VSS circuit malfunction____________Vehicle speed sensor
3137____________Battery voltage incorrect___________Battery
4133____________Fuel pump relay malfunction________Fuel pump relay
3149____________A/C compressor switch or relay_____Air Conditioner
________________malfunction
3221____________A/C fan malfunction_______________Air Conditioner
3133____________A/C Cooling fan malfuction_________Air Conditioner

Type 1__1.3L SOHC
Type 2__1.5L SOHC
Type 3__1.5L DOHC

Remember: These are only guidelines to aid you in your diagnosis. They will not provide a definite answer as to what component you should replace, but moreso, identify in which area you are experiencing problems.
I will personally hold no responsibility for any failures that may occur to user carelessness!

Actuation Test

There is also an actuation test which can be carried out in order for you to determine whether your actuators are operating correctly.

Actuator Control Sequence Procedure

1. The L-wire (No. 15 pin) in the data link connector has to be grounded before turning the ignition key on (DO NOT START).
2. Turn the ignition key on (DO NOT START) and then disconnect the grounded wire from pin No. 15, then the actuator activation sequence will begin, starting from the fuel pump relay.

NOTE: Each actuator will be stopped after activating 6 times

3. Once the actuator has activated 6 times, you will then be required to ground the No. 15 pin again to follow on to the next actuator in the sequence, which will be listed below:
Test Item__________________Fault Code
1. Evap can. purge valve solenoid_______________1322
2. ISC vAlve solenoid_________________________1321
3. No. 2 injector _____________________________1315
4. No. 3 injector _____________________________1314
5. No. 4 injector _____________________________1313
6. No. 1 injector _____________________________1312

4. If the actuator responds normally, code "4444" (No Fault Code) will be indicated by the MIL.
If there is any faults, the relevant trouble code will be displayed via the MIL.

Many people do not realise that Hyundai U.S.A. have provided a free online Workshop Manual for all the Hyundai models that are sold in America.

To use this click :-
http://www.hmaservice.com/authenticator/lo...h%2Fdefault.asp
Register (Internet Explorer required).....log-on; click `Service Information` & enter your car`s details & click the `Shop` tab.

It might be an idea to bookmark this to your favourites........& remember you can print off sections (or the whole manual!) as required.

Cheers,
Nick.

Sorry, I forgot I had only shared this info. with S-Coupe owners! :-

Click here

Cheers,
Nick.

Hi there.

Sorry if my question sounds too newbie, but I really dont know almost nothing on cooling systems.
A day ago, my accent start to heat and loose all the water inside the radiator. It made a sound as if something was choking inside ( seemed to be high water pressure ), and today I disassembled the air intake, checked the cables, changed the fuse for the onde identical close to it, and the cooling fan started working, and the cargot not overheated.

My question is : I noticed 2 cooling fans after the radiator, and only the right one, in fornt of the battery side, works.

Is it ok ? what is the use of the other fan ?

I need this car so much, it´s essential to me to go working, any answer will be very appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Hi, a friend of mine seems to think that a 1.6 honda Vtec engine will fit in my 1.3, And have also heard rumours about starlet GT turbo engines fitting, i have no idea. Not really bothered what engine i get for it, just want something more pokey but keep the same car! Any suggestions will be appreciated
Jord

Hi i hope this will be a quick resolved question right i was wondering if a HYUNDAI COUPE 2.0i ENGINE 1998 will fit into my Hyundai accent 1.5i 1998 please personally i think it shouldn't be a problem but obviously no point buying then finding out it doesn't fit. cheers i love that lol >>

My fun car is no longer in running order. The wiring is all messed up and the dash is in pieces. I am going to put another one together someday but I wanted to just post to say that the green one is going to be taken to the scrap yard. If anyone needs anything PM me.

i have a 96 accent, my wife will not let me sell it. the engine and trans are going out. i am trying to swap my i4 1.5 up to the gt tiburon v6 2.7. if any one know if it will fit in or if the this has been done please help me out with some advice. thanks

Other than my wife's 2004 Elantra GLS, which has stayed completely stock, I have no real experience with Hyundai's, but I am going to look at a 1997 Accent that supposedly has had its engine swapped for a 16-valve 2.0 from a '99 Tiburon. One thing noted is that the speedo doesn't work. Not sure if the tranny is from the Accent or the Tiburon. I'd assume if from the Accent, the fix should be straight forward, but if from the Tiburon?

What should I be looking for, aside from the regular used car things?

I've done a 2.4 swap into a Gen 1 Dodge Neon, and have done two or three old school (read '60s and '70s) swaps, but as I said, Hyundai's are a new bag. It sounds like it could be a real fun car. It could also turn into the nightmare from ****!

I'm looking to change my tire and wheel size on my 97 Accent hatchback. I do a lot of highway driving now and at highway speeds it's really screaming. It's got the little 13's on it now and there's not really any option for larger 13's than what I have. The speedo already reads fast, so a larger tire would bring it closer to correct.

Can I go to a 14"/15" wheel and get a taller tire under it to help reduce the RPM's at highway speed? might look better too!

Any larger OE wheels available that will fit nicely? Cost is an object to keep within reason.

Does anyone have any pics if they've done such a change?

Thanks in advance.

I can't find any useful documentation on the 1st generation accents anymore. There aren't any useful parts diagrams... just a few informational documents. Am I looking at the right part of the site?
Thanks.

I am having an issue with my 1999 excel, i had the O2 sensor replaced and now the check engine light keeps comming on, ive been back to my mechanic a few times and he's tried to clear the code, but last time he did a scan it was comming up AIR/FUEL correction, after testing the wiring to the O2 sensor and noting that when it was plugged in while the car is running it registers that the sensor is connected but does nothing with the signal. ie the scanners real time stats were showing a flat line for the O2 sensor.

he seems to think that the ecu is recieving a signal from the O2 sensor but not doing anything with it, in other words there is something wrong with the ECU.

wat do u guys think ??

Hey...

I was wondering if anyone could help me out.

I recently purchased a 1999 Accent. When I first purchased the vehicle the Check Engine Light was illuminated. I was told that the light would turn on and off due to a fault O2 sensor. I was also told that this started after some exhaust work was done and that the previous owner just didn''t get around to replacing the O2 sensor.

Before purchasing it I wanted to make sure that the problem really was just an O2 sensor, so I had a mechanic read the code and confirm that it was the O2 sensor.

Since then I have replaced the same O2 sensor twice [thinking that my original replacement was faulty] only to see the Check Engine Light come on after a few KM of driving.

Does anyone have any suggestions/ideas?

Thanks!

I have recently started having trouble starting car. 1999 accent problem first presented itself a couple weeks ago and seems to be getting worse. When i try to start it does nothing. If i hold the key to the start position and wiggle the shifter it will begin to turn over and start fine. i believe the problem is the neutral safety switch but have no clue as to where it is located. Please any help would be fantastic! I am sure this is probly in here somewhere but i am new to forums and have spent hours trying to find the solution.

Hi Good day, My Accent Starts without any problems But recently it just does not idle for long, about a few minutes it just cuts off, i was told the carburetor needs servicing which was done worked beautifully for a day am wondering if it is an electrical problem, fuel, ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED THANKS, Hybrid

I have a 96 accent 1.5l and want to install a tach. I hooked it up to the coil but wont rev over 3000 and thats even putting it to the floor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Is it true that the 1G Accents are prone to dashboard cracking. Where I live (South Africa) I have seen a few Accents with cracks and have been told its a factory problem. Does this happen in other parts of the world too.

A crack appeared in my dashboard now. I can't complain though because I got the car for next to nothing. Is there anything I can do to fix this?? Do they do after market Dashboards.

I seem to have a fresh oil patch under my car every day,since having the crank shaft sensor replaced last year I have experienced the oil patch,the first garage suggested the oil pressure switch but upon inspection it wasn't coming from there and couldn't be detected.
another garage said the oil filter again upon inspection no oil leaking from there .
My husband had it on the ramp at work [shhhh keep that to yourselves he wasn't meant to] it appears to be one of two places the crankshaft sensor or the dipstick.
I don't know why it would be able to leak oil from either place surely there are seals etc.
I understand that the seal may of gone but it is allot of messing around if its not.
I do park facing down on a hill.
When the car is on a flat she does not leak.
lol there is no flat parking for miles so please don't suggest I move house lmao.

if anyone has or is experiencing this problem I'd love to hear from you or even the reason it is happening , I love my car and I can't bare the thought of her not being with me next year the dipstick is always reading near on full too even if she hasn't been topped up usually the tappets start singing if the oils low o.O not the most intelligent way to know the oils running out but on a hill its difficult to get an accurate reading.
since she was at the garage for the week she has been dipped checked and made men scratch heir heads.the oil level is perfect and there was no fresh oil??????
She's a true woman and has off days she's not running the best and is grumbling when she's idling could this be a problem too???
I'm not mechanically minded and could really do with a hand

thanks for reading

Ok The beginning of the summer I started to work on my car since it's been down. I let my mothers friend use the car, he replace the timing belt and Head gasket due to over heated my car. I pulled the head off and took it to a machine shop and had them surface it. Put it back together tried to start it and time was off and cracked a valve. Replaces the valves got everything lined up and put back together. It wouldn't start wasn't getting fuel replace the fuel pump now it's getting fuel but still not starting. This car has frustrated me to the point that I'm about to junk it can some one please help asap...

Hi there forum.

Recently I have been hearing a kind of rhythmic squeaking noise from under the hood. As I accelerate the noise becomes faster and a little bit louder. Then the sound of the engine eventually drowns it out. This noise only happens when I’ve driven the car for the first time every day (or left it for about 8 hours), after this, it sounds quite normal. The noise also disappears after I have driven it for approximately 15 minutes.

To add to the frustration, this noise only started happening the moment I got it back from the mechanic.
It was due for a timing belt change and a general service.

Anyone know what this could be?

Any responses are appreciated.

Regards.

Car: 1999 Hyundai Accent GLS 1.3 (petrol/manual/rhd) 100k miles

Have a possible blown HG, car was effectively drinking oil, and when I went to check it and top it up, I spotted the milkshake mixture on the oil filler cap. A small amount I would attributed to the large about of short runs the car had been getting for a couple of weeks (<2m twice daily, 5 days a week). But there was a lot.

So planning to do a compression test as I have the tools.

I'm familiar with the process for my own car (Hyundai is the brother's), but just want to check a few details as I don't have a service manual for this engine

1. Drain possibly contaminated oil
2. Replace with fresh clean oil
3. Run car for about 10 minutes to warm up
4. Disconnect fuel relay
5. Disconnect DME relay
6. Loosen spark plugs by about 1/2 a turn each
7. Insert compression testing into 1st cylinder
8. Have friend (or brother) press the accelerator to open up the throttle fully and turn the key to crank the engine
9. Record maximum pressure
10. Move along to next cylinder and repeat from step 7

Regarding steps 4 & 5, are these correct for this car? anything else to disconnect/remove?
Also I don't recall seeing relay descriptions in the car, and without a manual to hand, could someone describe which relays I should be looking at. Would save me a good deal of time working out which is which.
Finally, what's the expected results for this engine?

Hi There!
I have to replace the computer on a 1999 Hyundai excel 1.3 computer. Do any person know where the computer is located, and is it easy to replace it by my own?
Thanx a lot!

Hello,

I have a 1998 Hyundai accent, 2 dr hb. Upon returning home today i noticed that there was smoke coming from under the hood. After investigating I noticed a large amount of Antifreeze on the ground ( had turned a rusty color ).

It was leaking from a silver piece , connected to the large radiator hose and positioned above the alternator, And it was leaking from the bottom of the resovoir looking silver piece. Is this a bad leak, what does that kind of leak mean, and what do I need to do to get it fixed?

hey guys so long story short i got this hyundai for FREE. yea not a penny. lol. its auto though and i really would like to change it to stick. does anyone have a rough idea how hard and how much it would cost?

hi everyone i have got a hyundai accent 1998 model 1300.until recentlly the car was in top notch condition;but now it just stalls in the middle of the road;especially when its hot,and going uphill.i have gone to my mechanic and he suggested that i buy a coil pack,and t hat didnt work.now he has changed his tune and says its a fuel pump.i need some advise before i buy the fuel pump because it doesnot come cheap.also he cleaned my carburator ,changed fuel filter

hope that u can help guys

An earlier topic addressed the key getting stuck in the ignition. I have a 95 Accent with an Auto trans. Someone mentioned disconnecting the battery to get the key out. This didn't make sense until i tried it last night and sure enough, it worked.

There was never an explination or fix posted for this problem so i was curious to see if anyone has figured out how this works.

When the key gets stuck, the igniton switch won't turn all the way back into lock, it stays in ACC which leaves the radio on and kills the battery. Not good.

By the way, I'm new here and i would like to say hi and thanks to everyone here. I hope to contribute any way i can.

i have a accent that has a stumble every now and then at idle and misses when you pinn the gas while accelerating. i scanned the car and got codes 0300 0301 0304 which are missfires on cyl 1 and 4 and random misfires so i replaced the the coil which fires those two cyl and still have the problem. i also have codes 0136 0138 which are the o2 sensor codes for the second o2 sensor so is it possible the o2 sensor could be contributing to the engine misfires? also when i clear my codes the light will stay off and come back on after 10 minutes of driving and will flash 10 times or so and then stay on.

The rear washer fluid works fine but the front has up and stopped. It seems that both front and rear are running off the same pump and reservoir (conveintly tucked in the left front wheel well where myself I am unable to access it). Do you think that it is just a plugged hose or something more serious?

Thanks in advance,

Jayson

Hi,

My front wipers are not working.
I hear the motor going so dont think its the fuse. All other electrics fine.
Back one is working.
I am guessing there is a broken link somewhere?

Any help would be great thanks.

Hi everyone! I have just recently purchased a 2002 three door Hyundai Accent which was worked on by several different shops. I wanted to challenge myself, and I did--- with this Accent. I have two computers {ecm engine},crank sensor colant temp sensor,main relay and new harness grounds clean polish retight etc... As of now the dash is still out of the car and I'm thinking that the engine harness has a splice for power or ground that is loosing the ability to allow the current to flow in the proper direction. I'm not going to give up on this car. For now I heat the ECM, yes heat with a heat gun untill the car starts. When the car's check engine light lights up I know the car will run. Only until it stalls. Now you may say to your self this car
makes no sense and you're right but both ECM's do exactly the same thing. So the next step is to add diodes to power and grounds and see what happens. Just for the record I love this problem and all others that Ive fixed in 20+ years hands on.
I'm open to any suggestions and help with this one, I also think that there are more like this one and that the answer is not known. I think that there are cars like this one that got new harnesses but the exact cause is unknown. I have one thing on
my side & that is time and patience.
Thank you. D1z1d@aol.com

hey this is clownzz! i'm new lookin for info on anyone who has turbo charged an accent, we've done a few set ups in other cars now wear about to take on the 95 accent and when were done we'll do my wifes 98 anyone know where i can find info?

Just to summarise the problem i've been having is that after driving the car then leaving it for an hour or so, the car doesn't start.
it will turn over but then not start which means i have ruled out the the starter motor.
It works perfectly once jump started which suggests it isnt the coils
I have just replaced the fuel filter and the pump is working
Spark plugs, ht leads, oil filter and air filter are about 6 /7 months old and in good condition
Battery is 3 months old

Which doesn't leave much simple stuff so I eventually gave up and took my car to hyundai for diagnostics.
They told me it was my crankshaft position sensor which is the problem and they wanted £130 to replace it.
I dont have that kind of money so would like to do it myself apart from, I dont know where it is and am not sure what it looks like exactly.

Has anyone here replaced one before? where is it located? and hows it done?

Cheers

Martin

Hi I have my own OBDII/CAN scanner that actually reads out the codes and their description. But do not know enough about new car repair to know where to begin in fixing these 2 problems listed below.
I get P0707 - Trans Range Sensor Circut Low Input
and P0743 - Torque Coverter Circut Electrical
codes.
The car runs and shifts fine...with only very minor hesitation in between gear shifts..which I just attribute to a smaller engine with high miles 132K
Otherwise the car runs, idles and shifts great. Are these codes something I should be concerned about and how to I go about looking into and or repairing these issues. Thanks in advance.
Brad

I just got the car about 2 months ago. The person I bought it from said it was sitting for 7 months. A few days later, it started bogging/chugging down the road. It seemed to do this everytime I let it get near empty and it won't let me go past about 25 mph. Anyways, we changed the fuel filter the same day & eveything seemed fine again. (When it chugs, it does it non-stop and doesn't go away) It then began doing it again so my boyfriend and dad thought it was stuff in the tank including water from sitting so long. Boyfriend ended up siphoning the tank. He said that the gas was bad, a whole bunch of dirt & etc was seen, and was sortof bubbly. It then went back to driving normally again. NOW- weeks later, started bogging again. This time it was way worse and made the check engine light appear and the car stalled & started up right after stalling. After the check engine light went away we decided that if it was the fuel pump; it would not be getting any gas for it to even chug down the road & if it was a sensor the check engine light would remain on? After putting on yet another fuel filter.. it was normal for a day. Today it started the whole process over again til I put more gas in. This time I was not really that close to being empty on gas. It was about a little under a half a tank. Sorry so long but I really need to fix this! Thanks in advance. ANY help would be appreciated!

Good morning, would someone help me find the wiring diagram of HYUNDAI ACCENT 1.3 GLSI (5P) GASOLINE FOR THE YEAR 1997?? because I have a problem to solve for the alarm remote start, and without the wiring can not make it working, give a great help.
thanks

ALLIENFOX

FRUSTRATED

OK so I've been wrestling with my car for months wracking my brains as to why my car is consuming 2x the amount of gas it should be
and i mean it's BAD
sooo, my oil cap is collecting a beige slimy precipitate that smells of a combination of oil and fuel on it. I automatically assumed head gasket because the precipitate would be coolant. It's not the head gasket

I took out my spark plugs and checked them, they were black and badly fouled but completely dry

while checking my spark plugs i also checked my compression. A little high, like 10 PSI higher than the specs but that's not a problem even after adding oil and rechecking. And no leaks in my compression

so my exhaust smells awful of fuel so i know it's burning too much. Way to rich. all my sensors are readding wierd and out of specs so it's hard to actually pick out which sensor is reading wrong

i've come to the conclusion that one of my sensors is reading wrong(throwing more fuel in...changing my fuel to air ratio due to the readings it's accepting) and throwing the rest of the sensors out.

I hooked up the OBD2 reader to it and noticed that My O2 sensor infront of the cat. is not fluctuating at all. it's stuck at one number indicating that it's ****** to say the least. But it's only burnt up because of the excessive deposites that have been thrown out of my engine

after throwing a new O2 sensor in i will retest my sensors and see, but the question it...


HOW DO I TEST WHICH SENSOR IS MALFUNCTIONING "WITHOUT REPLACING THE O2 SENSOR" "MANUALLY" "WITHOUT AN OBD2 SCANNER"

any idea's???
thx, much appreciated

Sam Lawrie

Hi

I'm new here and I'm not sure if I'm in the right place. I have a 1994 X3 pony.

Every now and then after reversing out of a car park, it will not go into Drive. Obviously I put it into Drive, but it is as if its in Neutral. After a couple of shifts into Park then Drive, all goes back to normal.

There is no noticable problem from then on. It only occurs occasionally and only after I have been in reverse.

Any ideas???

Hey!

Been having this problem for a while but it has now gotten to the point where my 98 excel manual is no longer reliable enough to go get groceries.

It will stall out (usually at intersections with cars parked 1cm behind) and then not start till 10-30min later.

Had it at an auto electrician and they replaced the CAS and said it might be fine (great reassurance ey )

I tested starting it and leaving it running and it stopped after about 5-10min.

Initially i thought it might be a fault with the electrical system but maybe I'm on the wrong track. It seems to happen because of the engine temp.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Best regards
Tobias

hi there, I have a problem with my 1998 Accent (1.5L) and would like your advice.

It started about 3 weeks ago. When I'd try to accelerate (manual transmission) It was as if the engine was flooding and could'nt get enough speed to get into 2nd gear and the engine eventuelly stalled. Waited about 5 minutes, started the engine and had no problem accelerating into 3rd gear to making it home (I was'nt far away). I changed the plugs, fuel filter and air filter (plug wires are only 18 months old).

Now the engine does'nt run as if it's flooding when trying to accelerate. It's as if the engine cuts off/has no power, wich lasts about 2 seconds and then it takes off (no problem accelerating).

The thing is that it's not a consistant problem. I can use the car for 3-4 days and it runs fine, then for 2-3 days I can't use it.

I've brought it in to two repair shops and they can't find the problem.


Any ideas?

Hello:

I have a 1997 Hyundai Accent with 67k that emits a high pitch squeal between 0-20 mph. When I accelerate higher than this range the squealing stops.

Any ideas of what this can be?

Thanks,
James Cone

this is going to mark me out as a complete clueless amateur, but i'll press on regardless

over the last few weeks, my accent has been pulling to the right. if i let go of the steering wheel, it will eventually steer at least a full quarter turn at low speed (maybe more, have only checked it on the road so far), and a little less at speed.

i can't think of any changes that i've made, or any crashes into the kerb or anything (maybe once or twice i grazed the front wheel when parking). the only thing i did was check the tyre pressure at a supermarket, to get them all up to the same level. the pulling started around this time, but i don't want to assume they're connected.

i rechecked and inflated them all to the same level again today, hoping that might cure the problem. it didn't. however, beyond this simple test i'm at a loss as to what order to test things.

when i've mentioned this to people they say things like "wheel alignment", "tracking" and "wheel balance". i've tried googling these, but most people with the same 'pulling' symptom seem to have a shaking steering wheel as well, or some sort of noise from the steering. my steering wheel doesn't shake at all, and there is no noticeable noise.

what are these checks (wheel alignment/balance, tracking), and which order should i do them in? what sort of prices should i expect to pay?

google also suggests lots of complex sounding things to do with steering joints and stuff, but i don't even want to think about that

one other thing is, both my front tyres need replacement regardless as they are pretty low on tread. surely this couldn't cause such a sudden, major onset of 'pulling' to one side?

any help or advice most appreciated!

Hey all,

I've been having some trouble with my accent over the past few months.

Background:
Flex pipe was replaced during the summer and the oxygen sensor that goes in it fell out and was lost a short time later. Replaced it (unknowingly) with the wrong oxygen sensor (bought the one that goes in the front of the engine).

Car ran ok for a few months then during a heavy rain storm (coincidence?) it bogged down on the highway with the check engine light flashing. Issue lasted 10-20 seconds then returned to normal.
Bogged down happened a few more times on the highway and twice while idling shortly after start-up. Replaced spark plugs (wires were changed out a year ago). Cylinder 1 plug was darker than it should have been (too much fuel?)

Eventually got the check engine codes read, oxygen sensor error and misfire in cylinder 1. Installed correct oxygen sensor.

Car bogged down again and stalled on the side of the highway. Wouldn't start for my girlfriend but I got it going with the accelorator to the floor before starting to crank (stops gas flow to the engine for flooded scenarios). Checked codes... evap small leak (happens off an on for over a year), misfire in 1/3/4, random misfire. Replaced coil pack. Bottom of location for the wire for cylinder 1 was coated in white substance, other 3 looked fine (brass colored with no buildup).

With the new coil pack in, it would crank but was really rough like it was firing out of order. tried a different (than original) plug order that I found online with no change. Reverted to the original order and eventually got it going with the accelorator slightly pressed. Ran fine for the evening.

Tried to start it the next morning (-5 to -10c outside), car wouldn't start. Replaced the coolant sensor. Still woudln't start. Plugged the block heater in (was -5c outside) for an hour as I remembered it helped get it going before changing the coil pack at one point. An hour later it started and ran fine. Battery was changed last year and it cranks for extended periods without losing cranking power.

Any ideas where to look next? If you need more info let me know and I'll be happy to answer the best I can.

Hi all,

I'm currently in Banff, AB for winter season and have seen a 1999 Accent for sale for $1000 (canadian), it has no stereo and has an "check engine" light illuminated although it seems to start and run fine. I had a quick drive and it seemed okay..

This was a month ago, and it still hasnt sold so im thinking of going in with a low offer and getting an inspection done before i buy. Does anyone know what the light may be? Im not sure how long its been on. The car has 260,000 km on the clock.

I just need a car until like March/April at best, so was thinking of taking a punt on this. Any cautionary tales or advice from owners greatly appreciated.

cheers!

I'm a little puzzled by this issue and was hoping someone had some ideas....

1999 hyundai accent. 167,000 km.

Symptoms:
When it's cold the engine runs and sounds like a lawn mower when I give it gas.
Rough idle when cold.

There is no power between 1500-3000 rpm when cold and the engine sputters. If I get it above 3000 it's okay.

Once it's warm all issues go away.

Any ideas?

EDIT: Also possibly important. The issue is far more pronounced if the car has been sitting or more than a couple days.

THANKS!

After starting up the car at night, turning the head lights on all of the lights in the console look fine, seconds/minutes later they begin to flicker or go out completely. Any ideas?

ps. only the lights in the instrument cluster flicker/go off


I have a 1999 Hyundai Accent GL

hello, my first post...

hyundai accent (1997)...

there was a small but bulky block of ice on my windscreen just above the wiper, and when i accidentally turned the wipers on, the driver's side wiper got stuck and moved a quarter of the sweep and then stopped. now it still moves, but only about an inch or so. the other wiper works perfectly.

how can i go about deciding what needs replacing/repairing? i've figured out how to loosen the cowl, but i can't get the wiper arms themselves off! i've undone the nut, but can't get any further... is there a trick to getting the wiper arm off? all i can see it a screw thread, but i'm guessing it doesn't unscrew...

i'm guessing it won't be a motor problem, as the other wiper still works. possibly a linkage problem? i notice that i can now move the dodgy wiper freely, whereas the other one is nearly impossible to move without engaging the motor.

any help much appreciated...

Hi

I have a '97 accent petrol with cylinders 1 and 4 down. The problem was intermittent at first but is now constant.


I checked the leads and there is no 'spark' coming down them into the plugs. The First thing I did was swap the leads but they are all fine. As coils 1 and 4 come from the same coil, the next thing i tried was fitting another coil pack.. this has made no difference.

I see there are 3 cables coming into the pack (blue/yellow, brown/red and black/white) I guess these feed from the ignition or from the E.C.U.- is this the next place I should check or is there something else other than the ECU / cables that could be the cause ? maybe a sensor but I don't see how this would cause 1 and 4 to fail but not 2 and 3.

any help would be appreciated !

cheers,

Chris

Hey folks,

I could use a little help here - my mechanic can't look at it for 2 weeks and I'm wanting some opinions on this:

Vehicle: 1995 Accent, automatic tranny.
Km: 100,000
Maintenance: According to owner's manual schedule (done it all, inc timing belt).
Oil: 5w30 as per owner's manual
Tranny Fluid last checked: October 2009

Synopsis: It started making a ticking noise gradually over the last 3 weeks.

Environment and driving habits
Weather: It's been 20 degrees below zero here for a month.
Usage: I drive it every day, twice per day. I let it warm up for 5 minutes (minimum) before I drive it. I drive like an old lady to conserve fuel and my meagre student funds.



The problem: The engine compartment produces a ticking sound. The sound:
-only made when driving above 30 km/h
-disappears if I put the tranny into neutral. Returns shortly after I put it back into gear.(still rolling above 30 km/h)
-constant ticking rate...about 8 ticks per second (480 ticks/minute). The ticking rate and intensity is the same at 70 km/h as at 30 km/h

I'm assuming that it is transmission-related.

What might be a cause of this?

Anybody else had a similar problem? What did you do?

Thanks for anything you can tell me!

Dan
~

Hi, I've got a 1997 hyundai accent. Was curious if You know a website where I can buy the full Hyundai Accent Dashboard as mine is all cracked and I think it is holding with the body with just 1 bold.
Thanks