Did anyone see that there are now new rear springs for the 06-08 Sonata? This was recently posted on hmaservice.com. There is no indication what the reason for the new parts is but one would think it was to address an issue. The TSB says that if the new part is used that both rear springs must be replaced at the same time so they must be revised from the current part.

[attachment=16112:10_SS_001.pdf]

About 2 months ago i went with my friend who has a decked out altima to the 2nd Anual end of the year nissan car meet and it was pretty sick saw alot of crazy stuff, i was wondering if there's any Hyundai Meet's, Or Sonata Meet's out there, Itll be cool to see others peoples takes on there car's and get new ideas and what not. If there's not any out there I think that we should all try to set something up..

Post your wheel/tire specs so its easier for all of us to reference

1. Brand of Rim
2. Rim size
3. Offset (indicate if you use spacers)
4. Brand of tire
5. Tire size
6. Drop amount
7. Do they rub?
8. Picture (optional)

Please don't post OEM setup.
Just post the specs, if you have comments/questions about a particular wheel please PM the user.

OEM wheel info:
Steel 16x6.5 offset +46 (~23lbs)
Aluminum 16x6.5 offset +46
Aluminum 17x6.5 offset +46 (~22lbs)
Bolt pattern 5x114.3mm (5x4.5in)
Center hub is 67.1mm

Follow the link below for a compilation of TSBs, DIYs, How-To's, Aftermarket Parts, and other goodies. There are also owners manuals for various model years. If anyone has additional Sonata TSB, Recall, or other Technical Information for the 4G Sonata, feel free to add it here. Thanks all!

http://www.amdmaddness.com/sonata/index.htm

The Faces of Sonata is here:
http://www.jerrystout.us/faces/

What should be simple, isn't ! The owners manual description is vague. Does anyone out there know how to do this ? I tried removing the upper liner of the trunk lid only to be stopped by the plastic "pull-down" handle. How in **** do you get this off ?

A lot of people start threads about getting poor fuel economy on the 4th generation Sonata so I've decided to share some of my tips on how I get better gas mileage. Ideally, I'd like everyone who cares to respond to this thread to list their car specs, mods, best MPGs and techniques used to get them there. Like this:

Year: 2009
Trim: GLS
Engine: 2.4 4-cyl
Transmission: Automatic (5-speed)

Modifications:
stock Michelin tires at 50 psi

MPG measurement methods: ScanGauge 2 (calibrated), tank fill-ups

Best mpg at sustained speed, level surface:
40 mpg at 41 mph, 5th gear, low 70-degree F temp

Best tank (filled at 1/4 tank or less):
29.45 mpg (80/20 city/highway, little A/C use)

Notes:
- Currently I do about 80/20 city/highway driving
- I don't use the manual-shift mode except to see what gear is in use
- Placing in Park or Neutral uses 0.30 gallons per hour, Drive uses 0.35 gallons per hour when stopped
- Use of cold A/C takes about 0.05 gallons per hour at the stopped position.
- My car is capable of DFCO (deceleration fuel cut-off: engine on but no fuel used, essentially infinite MPG) in throttle-off position when engine is warmed up (~184 degrees F) so I P&G (pulse and glide: accelerate and then coast with the engine running)
- I do not put the car in Neutral when coasting.



I'll be updating this post with my latest results so please share your tips and techniques!

[attachment=16937:tswsne_hs_ang.jpg]The wheels are 19x8 and 19x9.5 with a 40 offset with 245/30 tires for $800, TSW Sneeterton. After searching the forum, the closest fit I found was 9.5's with a 35 offset using 235/35's. Obviously you can swap tires out but I'm more concerned with the offset. Im fairly certain the fronts would fit, and wouldn't the 40 offset make the outer lip of the wheel tuck in more than the 35 offset? I currently don't have lowering springs but most likely if I do get wheels I will lower it at the same time, cause if Sonatas are like Galants, the wheel gap would look horrendous!

Hi,

I just finished puttin mine on and decided to make this for the people that are a little hestitant on how hard it is to install the lowering springs

Ive got good news......its actually very simple!

I went with the H&R springs
Before:


After:




Tools:

Ratchet (preferably a 1/2 drive)
19mm socket
17mm socket
10mm socket
Spring compressors

Thats about it....u may need a few others if u have the same problem as i did, but ill explain later


Now on to the uninstall/install

First things first, jack ur car up and put on jack stands and remove the wheels (obviously)

There are a total of 5 bolts in the wheel well that need to be removed
Red= 17mm
Blue= 10mm
Green= 19mm
The Red/Gray arrow is where u may need an impact wrench...the drivers side came off fine with the ratchet but when i went to do the passengers side the ball joint just spun and i couldnt loosen the nut, so i got out the impact wrench and off it came




After all the bolts are removed you can take off the horseshoe-like part that connects the strut to the control arm


Then after that is removed you can remove the three nuts on top of the strut tower inside the engine bay and then you can pull the strut out


Now just take your spring compressors and compress the spring and take off the nut in the center that holds the cup on
****Please make sure to lay the strut on the ground and face it away from anyone as there may still be a little tension in the spring and will shoot the cup off when you remove the nut****

Once the cup is removed take the stock spring out and replace with the new one


Now this is where i stoped taking pictures because i was excited to get it done but its pretty straight forward

*Important*
When putting the strut back together there is a notch on the bottom for the bolt of the horse-like part, make sure to line that up with the bolt with the green dot on it or else you will have to take it part and realign it like i did

There is a rubber piece on the bottom of the cup that needs to be removed with a flathead screwdriver and placed on top on the new spring then put the cup on making sure to align the notch and green bolt.

Since the new spring is smaller u wont have to compress it to put it back on, just get someone to put the nut on while you push down with your wieght (thats what i did)


Installation is reverse (again.....obviously)

Then your half way to lookin good, just do the other side and drop the car

***make sure to put the wheels back on before you drop the car****



Hope this helps anyone thats interested in puttin new springs on

I had just finished getting gas(only 6 gals, so my tank was a a little more than quarter full), and then i got on the ramp onto the freeway which is like 300ft from the exit of the gasstation, as soon as i started merging in, i floored it, and i saw the car wasnt going anywhere, so i looked down, and i saw the check engine light flashing, and also noticed that my car even though i had my foot flat had shifted down to 4th and still would not go past 69mph. i then pulled over to the shoulder, and then noticed taht my engine was shuddering, and i took the shoulder to the nearest exit and parked. once your start the engine, he engine starts shuddering, and if i press on the accel it shudders more. i just had it towed to the nearest service centre. any ideas on what's wrong wth it and how much it could cost?

the car runs, but its accel is like cut, it barely goes more than 20mph max, and the engine shudders like no other.

the car has 83k miles on it btw.

Well I'm seriously considering trading in my '06 V6 GLS for a 2011 Sonata. Not sure if I would buy the 2011 or lease one. Right now Hyundai has some pretty great lease deals (high residual values) so I could save a bundle by going that route over purchasing one. Well anyways, I've always kept an eye on trade in values, resale values and the like and I was wondering if you guys think requesting a trade in value of $8,500 is reasonable? I've looked on Edmunds, KBB and Black book online and the trade in values have ranged from $6,800 (Edmunds) to $7,200 (KBB) to $7,950 (Blackbook). Black book trade in value is what I got from the dealers website with a coupon at the bottom guaranteeing a trade in equal to full value (blackbook gives a range for trade in values with $7,950 being the top). I classify my car as "good" or "clean" and it has about 52,000 miles on it. It doesn't and has never had any problems. Also, I have almost brand new tires and I replaced both the front and rear rotors and pads about 1 1/2 years ago so there really shouldn't be much of any reconditioning needed on the vehicle except for a detailing. That being said, all the listed comparable '06 models in this area have a listing around 11k for the asking price. Obviously most of them are selling for less than that. So what do you guys think? Is $8,500 reasonable or am I going to be lucky to get the $7,950 value?

Also, to the extent I pull the trigger on doing this I will have several items available for sale. I figure the following is what I will be selling:

1. Assuming I get the SE model on the 2011, I will be selling my 18" Stern ST-8 wheels (approx. 12k miles on tires)
2. My Ixion grill in ebony black
3. My LED/Halo headlights with clear corners
4. My Kenwood DNX5120 DVD/Nav headunit w/ wiring harness & mounting surround
5. My subs, amp and cables

So anyways if anyone is interested in any of the above, stay tuned for post in the classified section. Items like the wheels and subs will be a pick up only item. The grill, lights and headunit I can easily ship and still have the original packaging.

I used to think an oil filter was on oil filter. During a colder day I went to start my 06 V6 Sonata, and it made the most horrible noise ever it was the timing chain. Of course I had over 90k miles and this is used so its out of warranty, I've had the car 2 years now and its never made that noise. Dealer asks if I'm using Hyundai filter, I say no, he says change it and that should solve the problem.

I changed the filter, I was using a Purolator filter. Interesting, the prices of Hyundai filters are comparable to those at the Auto Parts store. There are big differences between the oil filters. The Purolator filter uses what appears to be felt on the top/bottom, while the Hyundai filter has a plastic lining on the top. Due to patents oil filters made aftermarket might be made differently, shorter, etc...With the felt lining instead of the plastic, the oil filter is shorter, there fore it could affect oil pressure, proper filtration, etc. There is another video in the series where a NAPA oil filter blows apart and destroys an engine. From now on I'm purchasing the Hyundai filters.

There is an excellent video on youtube pertaining to oil filters, skip to 5 minutes http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWETJJhiPgk...feature=related

Cars.overstock.com has the 2010 Hyundai Sonata I4 Auto GLS Base for $13,982 which is $6,638 off MSRP.

http://cars.overstock.com

The zip code I used is New York (NY) 10019 so I am not sure for the rest of the country.

What do you think of this price? Isn't this better deal than 2011?

I always start my car before putting my seatbelt on, mostly because I let it warm up when it's cold (i live in Utah). Is there any way to stop this loud chime. It is driving me crazy! it's loud and its unforgiving. it just doesn't stop. I drive a 2007 Sonata V6. Any ideas.

I have searched for this topic already but I haven't found an answer.

Hey gang, haven't been here in a while but both of my sideview mirrors are busted and in need of changing. (Not sure if it was vandalism)

I went to the dealer and they quoted:

Each sideview mirror - $190.00
Painting $80.00
Labor $89.00

That's just ridiculous for one sideview mirror replacemenet. I nkow that you could buy them seperately as, they only come in (Grey + Black) *I think but
I rather buy them, have it painted and do the job myself.

Now what is the best place to buy the 2006 Hyundai Sonata L+R sideview mirrors?

I would of like to by folding ones but I'm not even sure they make them.(I wouldn't mind paying EXTRA)

Thanks again

My 2009 Sonata (4 Cyl.) has begun to downshift very rough while coming to a stop from about 20 mph. At first I thought it was the brakes, but now I'm convinced it's the transmission. Essentially it "jerks" a couple of times before stopping. It started happening at 30,000+ and only happens when transmission is still cold. Once I've driven for a bit it doesn't happen. I haven't contacted a dealer yet... I thought I'd see if others have had this issue. Thanks!

I got some halos, and a led strip.

I want the halos connected to parking lights, and the led strip for my blinker.

Anyone know how to locate each wire so i can tap in?

Also what about the ground or negative (black) wire?

Just wanted to tell you guys that my motor sounds much quieter with castrol edge 10w30! I also have not seen a drop in gas milage. I chose the 10w30 over the 5w30 because looking at the numbers the 10w30 is only as thick as a thin conventional 5w30. I also have no need for the colder starting ability as I park my car in a heated garage at my house and drive to a heated garage in the city. also it dosent get cold where I live and the 10w30 is good down to 0F acording to Hyundai and far below that acording to Castrol. I also only use Hyuindai oil filter FYI.

Wondering if anyone else has experienced this ? I'd posted in July about the 'need' (?) to replace the rear brakes on my '07 GLS at 18,600 mi...I know . We began to hear the tell-tale metalic squeel primarily when turning the steering wheek to the right. Took it in and the mechanic and service guy indicated that the rears were worn down, mainly on the left. Being that I was hearing the noise too, which I knew to be the wear indicators and that my 19 yr old was driving the car mainly to her Summer job, I decided to have them replaced and the rotors turned. Since I'd had the car for 18 months there was little hope of having them replace under warranty. Between this and the 2 other Hyundai sites, I found a few other posts about this problem which seemed to indicate that in fact it might be a caliper or piston or rear pad issue needing an adjustment.
Today I took my '08 GLS, in service 8/15 last yr., in for the 34 point inspection, thanks HMC for the freebie coupon - and asked that they specifically check the brakes. Well...they found that the "rear brakes were sticking in slides causing glazing" they "freed the pads and machined the rotors" this time on the house
I insisted again that this wasn't normal especially for rear brakes and that there was some chatter on the internet message boards about what the problem might be.
The service guy, who seems to be a genuinely decent sort pulled up the brake job on the '07 from July, printed it out and offered to discuss the problem with the
RSM who comes in periodically to see what they "can do for me" I made sure to reiterate that I have 2 Sonatas and not just a 10 yr old Accent! He did acknowledge that the wear war on the low side of normal, I told him that he needs to look up to see the low side of normal for rear brakes.
So - has anyone experiences anything like this from either of these years ? or have another idea of what might be going on here ? On both cars the driving as about 75/25 city/hwy the 08 is garaged the 07 outside and I'm in W. PA w/4 season weather if it matters. We like both cars but this has me concerned.

Hey gang,

I purchased a H11 kit and followed the instructions on the board on how to mod a H11 install to work with our Sonata's H11B socket.

Once I was done, I drove the car for about 35 miles to the mall and back. No issues with a light possibly burning out or becoming intermittent due to a bad connection or something.

Everything looks and works great except....

I was about to record a short video to post when I noticed that my car turned off!!! I did it a few times and in all instances, it seems that the car turns off when I turn ON the HIDs but not exactly the 1st or 2nd time I turn ON the HID. Even so that the car turns over, but doesnt turn ON if I turn the key again. I have to basically remove the key and re-insert it.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what it could be? I am afraid that the car would turn off while Im driving because of the auto dusk sensor.

PS: Until I find a good home for the ballast, the left ballast is inside the car battery wrapper; and the right one is pinned by the coolant reservoir.

I used i360's instructions HERE (did not do step #9)

---->

I noticed a few months ago that my left rear rotor had a small area where it looks like something was scraping...just about 3/8" worth at the outside of the pad's footprint. Today I noticed that the pads footprint on the rotor is half discolored from scraping, as if something abrasive was on half of the pad. The pad is worn twice as much as the other three pads (28,000 mostly stop and go suburban driving). Anybody else notice this on the left rear brake? There was an auto letter in the Sunday Chicago Tribune from a 2006 Sonata owner whose left rear brake was completely worn to metal-on-metal contact, while the other three had half of the pads left.

It's going to the dealer Friday. First trip for anything "wrong" in 2 happy years of ownership.

Hi, I am new to this forum and what can I say: I LOVE IT!!!

i bought a 06 sonata lx a month ago and so far i love it exept one issue:

the gas mileage: advertised is 20city,30highway
i mainly drive in city and I get a frekin 13mpg! could some of you tell me why and what could the cause of this be? I mean its got new oil in it, new tires, and well winter gas with alot of ethanol in it but still do you guys have any ideas?

I was just changing my brake pads today and broke off one of the wheel stud. It's one of the front right wheel stud. I'm not sure what happened. I'm very sure that I was turning it the right way, because the other nuts were loosening, but this one wouldn't budge. I applied some of the penetrating oil too, but it won't budge. I forced it a little more and it broke off. After it broke, it seems like there is some salt residue on the thread that seems to be causing the seizing. I went ahead and changed my brake pads, but I don't know how to replace the wheel stud. I have a few questions.

1. Is it safe to drive with the broken wheel stud? what's a safe speed to drive in this condition?
2. I looked around but the forum but couldn't find anything. Anyone care to explain the process of changing the wheel stud?
3. What kind of tools would be involved?


Thanks!

I went to the internet to find out how to take apart my 09 Sonata's console and lower dash. That way I could install a GPS into one of the compartments. I was unable to find all of the information I was looking for. I did find a stereo installation guide for this car, but it wasn't as detailed as I would have liked. So I put this guide together to possibly assist someone who wants to disassemble their console.

1st - Remove shifter handle (No tools needed) - At first, I was skiddish of just pulling the handle of the shifter off, but after reading several places that is how it's done, I tried it. You do have to pull quite hard (I almost hit myself in the face when it came off) to remove it from the shifter. You can see that there are two rings that the shifter snaps into.

[attachment=16190:IMAG0030_2.jpg]

2nd - Remove cover over shifter. (No tools needed) - This is held on by four clips and two tabs that slide into the bottom trim. Once you have popped the cover loose, don't forget to remove the wire connection before pulling it too far away.

[attachment=16191:IMAG0032_2.jpg]

3rd - Remove both side trim pieces. (No tools needed) - They are held on by three clips each. If you have heated seats, then these will have electrical connections that will need to be removed.

[attachment=16192:IMAG0033_2.jpg]

4th - Remove the top trim piece. (Phillips Screwdriver needed) - Remove two screws, and after that this piece is held on by two clips.

[attachment=16193:IMAG0035_2.jpg]

After that, I removed the two storage compartments. Those are both very straightforward. Just some phillips-head screws. I pulled those out and installed a new garmin gps in the upper storage compartment, cut a small hole in the back of it, that way I could conceal all of the cords, and the GPS could be hidden when the cover was closed. This is the finished product.

[attachment=16195:IMAG0042_2.jpg]

Hope this helps someone out.

I am at 26,000 miles and will need to change it out at 30,000, so
after searching high and low for something that is Hyundai/Mitsubishi SP III compatible, here it is guys and girls a whole $3.99/quart at Auto Zone. Beats buying the Hyundai stuff for $7 and change a quart. It's Castrol Import Multi Vehicle Tranny Fluid and it's a Synthetic blend to boot. Here's the link.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongene...ntentId=7028224

Also, they sell Coastal Multi Vehicle Tranny Fluid that compatible with our SP III. It's also a Synthetic Blend and only $3.39/quart. Here's the link.

http://www.warrenunilube.com/transfluids.html

Evening all. I'm just wondering what tires you guys replaced the stock ones with? I've got the 225/50R17s, Michelins. Surprised that they lasted this long but one has a large bubble in the sidewall now(stupid Jersey potholes) and I'd feel better replacing all 4 at the same time.

So, what brand do you prefer?

BTW, I did search and couldn't come up with much. I'm computer illerate.

so I cleaned her all nice and pretty today. Lets start a thread, Post your pix!

The local Hyundai dealer has 3 used '09 Sonatas on the lot, 50,000km , $13,000.00 Canadian. That's around $12,350.00 U.S. funds. These cars are former rental cars and I am seriously considering buying one. They are all I4 GLS models. Is it a concern if the car was a former rental? Would the car recieved regular maintenance? I test drove one and I loved it, except for one thing: the front suspension seemed to have this feeling as if something has wore out to cause some impact harshness. It wasn't something you could hear. I could feel it only when the car hit a bump. Is there something that is known to wear quickly in the front suspension? Should I have it replaced before I buy? It feels like a control arm bushing.

Does anybody know someone or a shop in the St. Louis area that will change/install the gauge and other interior led's? I've searched the forums on how to do it but I don't trust my own skills to do it myself without screwing it up.

Last week my baby(06 sonata LX) was declared totaled from a car accident . I really loved that car and am looking to get into a similar one as a replacement. I've found a few possible replacements so far and wanted to get the opinions of my fellow Sonata family.

Found a 07 Limited with 11k miles for $17k <---- so far my favorite
Found a 07 Limited with 38k miles for $15k <--- white, not my first choice for color
Found a 09 GLS with 35k miles for $13.5 k

I was used to my car and from what I understand the Limited is essentially the same as the LX. To be honest I hardly ever used the V6 engine so the engine isn't that big of a deal. Main concern for me is millage since who knows how the previous owner treated it or if it was properly maintained, I don't want a lemon (I know even new cars can be lemons). I've also looked at possibly purchasing a brand new 2010 but i think that may be a bit out of my price range. Well... what do you guys think? do the prices seem fair for the above vehicles? Any other advice you can give a widowing car owner would be greatly appreciated.

This has happened a total of 3 times. The first time was months ago. I applied full throttle from a stop and when I let off the gas, the throttle was still wide open (thought it was floor mat). Second time was about a week ago. Again merging onto a freeway, applied full throttle and when I reached cruising speed I let off throttle and car continued to accelerate. I mashed on the brakes and the car again for about 8 seconds continued to accelerate and then just like that all was back to normal. The floor mat was NOT the cause. Then it happened tonight on the way home again under full throttle same symptoms only for a few seconds and then back to normal. I'm starting to get a little freaked.

Anyone else want to input anything or am I really crazy?



Chris

Hi,

I am thinking about trading my 2009 GLS 4 cyl with the popular equipment package for a new 2011 Sonata.
My car is in excellent shape, no dents, runs great. 14,000 miles. So it has alot of warranty left. You may ask why im even considering trading. Yes I know financially its a kick in the pants and all that, but thats a topic for another discussion!

The one dealer I spoke to would only offer me 11,000 on the trade. Ouch! Looking at the Blue Book, there it is listed around 13,000. I live in the Twin Cities area in MN. This particular dealer has a fair amount of 2010 Sonatas left on the lot. He did mention that when giving me the 11,000 offer. So obviously that is playing into the quote. They are all discounted fairly heavily.

Do you guys think it would be worth my while to try another dealer? I have searched inventory on other dealers around the area and a couple have very few 2010s. Do you think those places could offer significantly more? Maybe another 1000? They would be harder to get to for anything like free oil changes but I think it would be worth it to get a significantly better deal.

Anyone have any thoughts?

thanks!

I have looked at HMA service and do not see a gasket or o-ring between the housing and the engine does anyone know? I plan on the recommended drain and fill this weekend and figured I would address this issue at the same time while it is drained. Would any one recommend a new thermostat at 88,000 if its apart anyhow?

Thanks!

I just read through the owners manual and no where does it mention anything about the PCV valve. It say's inspect vacuum hoses, but no mention of PCV Valve. What's also worth nothing, the PCV Valve on the 3.3 can not be seen with out pulling the intake off. I was wondering if anyone else changes theirs out, this is the first time I changed mine in my 2006 Sonata 3.3 in 99k miles. It was about plugged up, I did video it on youtube in my spark plug replacement video. Any one have any experience with the dealer recommending replacement?

The PCV Valve is very cheap. Here's some more reading on the PCV Valve:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1Jb_sfpZsI

http://www.garage-pak.com/pat-goss-washing...il-pudding.html

http://www.trustmymechanic.com/valve_cover_leak.htm

http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/goss/2532.shtml

2009 i4, looking for better throttle body. Please post info if you have any.

2009 I4 LX
Cleaned and lubed the calipers yesterday and noticed something not mentioned in the HMA service procedure for front brakes. Removed Guide Rod Bolt(14mm socket) but then had to remove a brake hose bracket(12mm socket) on the back of the strut, otherwise the caliper won't swing up. This bracket isn't mentioned.
On the rears, I had to grind down the outer pads because I couldn't get them back in. Inners went in no problem. Pretty sure this would have led to premature wear of the rear pads since the outers weren't free to move.
From what I observed, a yearly service as recommended by my dealer, is a must if you're in a road salt area like Montreal. Took me about 90 min. Dealer quoted $130 plus tax. Would have been faster if I knew about the brake hose bracket on the fronts before I started.

My Wife just bough 2008 Hyundai-Sonata, and came with only Two Sets of Keys and ONE Remote.

My questions is to save money ; Can i program my old "2006 Infiniti FX 35" Key Remote to able to use my wife car(Hyundai)?

Changed the coolant, did this while car was cold. Open the drain plug and only got a measly 1/2 gallon out including the reservoir. Started the car waited for thermostat to open and a little more, combined I managed to pull a little over 3/4 gallon. Although, I put more coolant back in than that. I thought I would get a full gallon out. I used the Hyundai straight green long life coolant from dealer for around $13.00 bucks and bought a gallon of distilled water, mixed 50/50.

Tranny fluid drove around so it was warm, it is a 24MM socket to pull the bolt off. The washers the dealer gave me were to small, had to reuse the old one. Took 6 quarts of fluid to fill back up. I used the Castrol Multi Import on sale $4.49 at Advance. Car goes much smoother into gear from park, shifts, only drove it around a few miles but shifts seem smoother and firm.

Power steering fluid this was a messy one. Went to the dealer and picked up two bottles, retails for about $10.00 a bottle for 12 OZ of SP4, the updated of SP3 apparently it is synthetic. I took off the passenger side head light capsule, and disconnected the skinny line. Turns out the skinny line is the return line. Let it pool out in a drain pan below, should have bought some extra hose would have saved me from making a mess. After the system ran dry, I topped it up it took both bottles to bring it up to full, total capacity of the system I believe is a quart, 32 oz, so I put 24 oz in. Old fluid was black and nasty looking. Only drove a couple miles did a little whining probably some air but cleared up, will have to drive a little longer to see how it improves. Should be quieter.

I just need to reinstall the splash gaurds.

i have a 2006 v6 sonata. i see a oil lick which i believe is between engine and trans. any ideas?

I Seafoamed my Sonata. Put a 1/3rd through the brake booster vaccum line and the other 2/3 in the gas tank a little over half a tank. Let it sit for about 10-15 minutes, started it up and got some smoke. Changed the air filter to after 40k miles it was filthy.

I went to the dealer the OEM air filter is CHEAPER than the auto parts store. Plus, its made in Korea, not China.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqwRhBuDMV4

I've already noticed a few miles per gallon increase in fuel economy watching my avg MPG. Once the Seafoam in that batch of fuel is used it should get better.

After changing light bulbs multiple times, I've got it down to a near science. This is probably my 7th head light bulb replacement, 6 low beams and 1 high beam. I've replaced probably 5 fog light bulbs. I now leave the fog lights off, I only turned them on the other day when a low beam popped.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjwAtnJYvKA

I read about having the fog lights as DRL's, but the problem is they don't last long. They are $8.00 a piece, and low beams are $16.00 a piece. I run my low beams on all the time. Has anyone came up with a way to run the front turn signal filaments, like on the Cobalt on for DRL's? Highbeams are to bright unless they can be reduced 50% power wise. I've thought about buying a couple amber LED's and mounting them in the bumper and wiring them so they are on when the key is on or having a toggle switch installed.

Hi,

New here and I started out looking at the 2011 Sonata's but I noticed the my local dealer has a very nice 09 Sonata Limited with the 4 cylinder engine. The MSRP is $26,165 and the invoice is $24,408. I can't find any info on rebates for the 09 models but the 10s have a $2,500 rebate or 0% financing. The 11 model SE I was looking at was $23,000 so the 09 would have to be a pretty good deal for me to get the 09. Any ideas on how low I should go on an offer to the dealer? I'm thinking it has to be under $20,000 to make it worthwhile but that's just me first impression. Thanks for the help.

Mark

I went to my Hyundai dealer today and got a Cabin filter. If anyone is wondering the part # is 08790-2G000-A. This is for a 2009 Sonata which has a different filter than the 2006-2008.

So I tried the search box to see if anyone has replaced a fuel pump on an '06, without success. If there is a thread would you link me to it. IF not, then here is the story went out to start the car, cranked fine, battery was full. Did not smell any gas coming out of the tail pipe. Checked all the fuses I thought might be the culprit, none found. Checked spark, good. Accessed the top of the fuel pump, connectors good and fuel in the line. Called AAA to tow to dealer. When he got here he hammered on the fuel tank while I was cranking and the car started. Driver of tow truck thinks it may be the fuel pump? Called the dealer back and asked his opinion, he stated that he would not "shotgun" a fuel pump in it. He states that he has not put a fuel pump in the same make model in the three years he has been there. Yes I agree, I have underwear older than that. So I thought I would ask the forum. Has anyone done a pump on an '06 and/or do these opinion sound accurate?


Thank you for your time and input,
Damian

I've read stuff about 3.3L V6 Sonatas flooring around 250+ km/h (155+ miles/h), but haven't found much about 2.4L I4's actual top speeds. What makes me wonder the most is the fact that my Sonata's engine barely reaches 3,000 rpm while doing 150 km/h (93 miles/h), so I'd think it may be able to reach, if there's no electronic limiter or similar at play, about 220-225 km/h (137-140 miles/h).
Any actual experiences about this to share, anyone?

They say its the sensor or switich that controls the gears and all, is that true?

I've been putting off awhile replacing the spark plugs and PCV valve on my 2006 Sonata V6, I was planning on having the dealer do it. I ended up doing it myself. It took me about 3 hours to pull the intake off, learning from what I did it would only take me about 45-60 minutes should I do it again.

My Sonata has near 99,000 miles on it, has the original NGK factory plugs, I replaced them with Denso Iridium Power IK16 plugs. The PCV valve I bought at the Hyundai dealer.

The old spark plugs were in ok shape, they all had the electrode on there, the gap was good. The rear spark plugs were the best looking, the front spark plugs had some issues. A couple of the front spark plugs had traces of oil on them, and there was some deposits on them as well. The PCV valve was gummed out, it can only be replaced by pulling the intake, you can not see it with everything in the way. I actually read a post on here that inspired me to do it, who ever said they pulled it in 30 minutes(show me your proof lol!), I knew I would not pull it in 30 minutes before I even started.

My plan was to have the dealer replace all 6 spark plugs. Then I decided that I could do this myself and save some money. I did the front three first, and the plan was to let the dealer to the back. What was holding me back from doing the rear, all the wiring, hoses and not sure how the rear came off. After reading posts of people who claim to pull it off in 30 minutes, I hit it head on like a bull at a red flag and it took me about 3 hours to take off. Lots of guessing, looking, struggling with electrical connectors, hoses, then figuring out why the intake wont come off. The last things I did in removing the intake were removing the bolts that hold the bracket for the O2 sensor harness in the back and the fuel lines, then disconnecting the throttle body from the intake because I could not remove the electrical harness. I would have pulled the vaccum hose from the intake that leads to the brake booster but couldn't get the hose off, this was after the intake was removed.
The intake had residual oil on it. I dusted off the intake and rubber air housing hose they had dust/dirt in them.

IF you think you can't do it, my best advice is, just go out and tackle it, start disconnecting every bolt and harness, using process of elimination you will get that intake off. It looks complicated, it is to an extent. Putting everything back together is the easy part and you should be able to do that in 30 minutes. I didn't replace any gaskets they were all in good condition. Make sure you replace that PCV valve, this is the only time you will be able to access it.

I made a video and took some pics. I didn't video every single nut and bolt being removed, I did take some pics to see what it looks like with everything removed. The video just gives you a basic idea. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlqRE3MD0oI There's some pics I attached for you to see what the plugs looked like, and a comparison of the new/old. All comments welcome. What's the easiest way for you to remove those electrical connectors? They all seem to differ, some you push and release on the side, others have tabs, pain in the rear. What is that rusting/burnt section on the white part of the spark plug? What was the cause of that?

I am contemplating buying a factory navigation and installing it in my Non-Nav 2009 Sonata limited.

My question is would the wiring be present in a for it to work? I am hoping that Hyundai standardize on a wiring bundle they they put in all limited.

If yes, I noticed that the mute button on my steering wheel is the identical place where the nav speak fuction button is on a Limited with Nav. Again, if the the wiring is standardized on all limited's. If I put the nav in would the mute button now be the nav speak function?

I came up with a simple parts list for the 4G Sonata. I am not listing aerodynamic parts or anything to do with lighting... check the vendors for those.
Parts marked with * are not readily available to US/CA market.

Engine
K&N Filter 2.4 I4 33-2887
K&N Filter 3.3 V6 33-2346
Headers 2.4/3.3 (KSpec/KAI)
Weapon-R Dragon Intake (3.3 V6) 842-121-101
Weapon-R Secret Weapon Intake (3.3 V6) 342-121-101

Exhaust
*7ism Cat-back Style 1/2
*JUN B.L.

Suspension
*BILSTEIN B14 PSS Coilover HE5-E663
D2Racing RS Coilovers D2-H010
Eibach Pro Kit 4240.140
Front Strut Tower Bar (KSpec/Shark Racing)
H&R Sport Springs 29163
*Koni Struts/Shocks 8041-1357Sport (front) 8040-1358Sport (rear)
KSport Kontrol Coilovers CHY09-KP
KYB Struts/Shocks 341476(front) 349060(rear)
Monroe Struts/Shocks 72281(front) 5614(rear)
Neotech Coilovers Type LE (KSpec/SFR)
Neotech Coilovers Type VE (KSpec/SFR)
SMA Coilover (SFR)
T&P 2700 Coilover (KSpec)
T&P 2700A Coilover (KSpec)
*Tein H-Tech Lowering Springs SKJ08-GQBH0
*Tein Super Street Damper DSJ08-KQAS2

Brakes
Hyundai 12" Drilled Rotors 51712 2C700 (Front L/R) (SFR)
Hyundai 2-piston Calipers 58180 39A20 (Front L/R) (SFR)
Ksport Big Brake Kit 12" 6-piston BKHY090-621SO (Front only)
Ksport Big Brake Kit 13" 8-piston BKHY090-831SO (Front only)
Ksport Big Brake Kit 14" 8-piston BKHY090-841SO (Front only)
Ksport Big Brake Kit 15" 12-piston BKHY090-951SO (Front only)
Ksport Big Brake Kit 16" 12-piston BKHY090-961SO (Front only)

Vendors
Import Shark
KAI (Korean Auto Imports)
KSpec
SFR (Seoulfulracing)
Shark Racing

Korean Vendors (search for "NF" and/or "소나타")
Gmarket
ImotorRoom

2006 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L

This problem started a few months ago and now it is getting ridiculous. A few seconds after I start the car I get a lot of anomalies. The radio turns on and off 3-4 times. The ESC, ABS, and emergency brake indicators on the instrument cluster flash on and off in cadence with the radio. If I turn on the high beams then this problem starts all over. If my tires start to slip and ESC is activated then this problem happens. If my ABS is activated then this problem happens. While all of this happens there is an audible click somewhere in the vicinity of the glove box. I think that there might be a junction box behind the glove box but I am not sure. This happens every time that I start the car. What could cause such a problem?

I changed my front rotors and pads at around 84k miles on my Sonata. I bought EBC rotors and Akebono pads.

The EBC rotors part number E35UPR7383 I bought from AutoPartsWarehouse.com this was August 2009 for $57.61 each, they are now $91.00 each.

I bought Akebono front pads part number AKACT924 same place, for $67.95 now they sell for $58.76 for the whole front set.

Prior to changing the front rotors/pads, the pedal had a terrible vibration in them when braking. The front pads were probably half way worn. Changing it out was a task all I had was hand tools. The bolts that hold the caliper mounting bracket on were on there TIGHT, you really have to put some oomph in there all while holding an extension to keep the socket from slipping off. Problem two the phillips head screws that hold the rotors in, they didn't want to come out. They had to be drilled out, my dad came to the rescue and used a screw extractor kit. I bled all four brakes, there was an air pocket in the left rear.

End result, about 14k miles later, they do great. There is NO more vibration, and I'm still using the original factory pads/rotors on the rear. Brake feel is alot better. I would have gone with an EBC pad but all it was showing was 2.4 ltr models, so just to avoid getting the wrong parts I got the Akebono pads that were for the 3.3 only.

I also bought my Denso NPIK16 spark plugs there too. Anyways, my rear pads still have plenty of life left. If your on a budget try replacing your front pads/rotors first, I used high quality products, do it right the first time. The vibration went away after changing it. I'm sure replacing the rear pads/rotors with a higher quality brand would really increase braking distance even more.