2003 Elantra gt 90,0000 miles manual transmission

Rough idle under 1000 rpm it smooths out completely above 1000 rpm.
Also the engine makes a ticking noise from a cold start up. It stops making the ticking noise after 1500rpm or when the engine warms up.
Occasionally the car has a sputtering backfire. This happens when I park the car after being on the highway.

Replaced the plugs, wires, and the pcv valve.
Dropped the oil pan and it and the oil pump pick up screen were clean.

Any ideas? The only check engine light to come on was for the speed sensor. It has since gone out on it's own.

Sorry Disregard below. I was able to find engine diagrams on HMA Serivce after all. Thanks though...Jim


----
My wife's 2005 Elantra has been getting the CEL every few months or so all connected to the Evap Purge codes. Usually we just open and reseal the gas cap and it goes away.

I used to clean the Purge valve on my Saab. Does anyone know where the Purge valve is located on and '05 Elantra? I wouldn't mind cleaning it or replacing it if necessary.

I can't seem to find an engine diagram on HMA Service.

Thanks Jim

Hi,

I got a P0302 code from my car. I've changed the spark plugs and spark wires. I'm waiting for a new ignition coil to come in to change that. The other possible causes that I've found from research is a possible faulty or dirty fuel injector or a sticky/dirty exhaust valve.

My question is how difficult is it to clean the valves? I imagine that I would need to remove the valve cover to get at them, but is there anything in particular that I would need to keep in mind to do this? Should I get a new gasket? Is this too difficult for me to do? Will this screw up the timing at all?

Also, what should I use to clean the injectors? I'm not thinking fuel injector cleaner that you put in the gas tank, but actually physically removing the injectors to clean them.

Any and all insights would be tremendously helpful!

Thanks!

Alex

2002 Elantra GT

I have had this problem Twice so far.

After driving a short distance with the headlights on and pullup to a stop light i put on the left turn signal and the blinker starts to blink slowly then just stops, then the transmission goes haywire even though it is in DRIVE the engine just reves as if the car is in nutral, I put it in park it goes into reverse. When I turn off and back on again the car run is normal.

Any ideas?

The batteries in Elantra's must be very strong. The reason I say this is because I left the lights on at the mall for about 2 or 3 hours and it didn't drain the battery and the car still started. I once left the lights on an Olds Delta 88 years ago for about one hour and the car won't start without getting a boost. Do the lights turn off perhaps by themself if the car isn't running and the lights are left on, that would also explain why leaving the lights on didn't drain the battery ?

My daughters 2001 elentra has a cel on. It had a p0440 code. I cleared that by swapping in a good purge solenoid. The original was stuck in the open position. Now I have a p0456 code . This is a "very small leak". Where should I start to look first? Fuel cap?, canister valve?, hoses?. Most common cause could be ?????

Which coolant should I use for a 2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS with 135K miles

Thanks

I have a 2005 elantra with 48k miles. I've only had it for a few months but I noticed when I hit a bump the back end jerks to one side pretty hard. Usually the side where I hit the bump. If the roads wet the car just keeps jerking from side to side a bit. Ive never really had a small car before so is this just becuase it's so light or is there something wrong? Also if theres something wrong would the waranty cover something like that?

I have a 2001 Elantra GLS with 68K miles. I just filled it up the other day, and recorded 15.3mpg. This was to say the least, frightening. I understand that my driving may have something to do with it (i drive 3 miles to school everyday, and putter about town). I don't do jack-rabbit starts, and don't operate running the AC or heat. My tires all have 30psi. The car has had all routined maintenance performed regularly. I live in the northeast where temperatures have been in the low 50's.
I have read about faulty O2 sensors, as well as the mass air-flow sensors. Perhaps it is in neeed of a tune-up? Never been done.
Thanks in advance.

Has anyone had a problem with the headlights beams not reaching out far enough ? I mean on dim I can barely see the lines when meeting another car. On bright they should go out further also. I don't see any adjustment on them. All bulbs are good. By the way I just bought the car. Thanks Ron.

This was posted in the accent forum but thought I would try here as well as there must be similarities. .......

Hi All. I've been a floater on the forum for a while but first post. Thanks to everyone for making this a great resource. Im trying to diagnose the dreaded P0442 "gas cap code" (evap emmission control system small leak).

I have a 2005 Accent GSI (1.6L) and code reader and the hyundai manual (printed version of HMA site).

So far have tried the following:

1. New gas cap.
2. Visual inspection of filler pipe
3. General inspection of recommended fuel vapour hoses.

Im now trying to run a test on the PSV as described in the manual. It says draw a vacuum at nipple, hold vacuum and jumper a wire from PSV control terminal 1 to ground and vacuum should bleed off. Im a little confused about where control terminal 1 is??? Is that at the electrical plug into the PSV in the engine bay or at the PCM (terminal no 46). I also get a little confused as the manual seems to use PSV and PCSV interchangably although I dont think they are the same thing are they??? Any help appreciated

If PSV once tested is operating normally I guess I will have to take it in as the only other suggestions in the manual are a leak test or substituting a known good DMTL.

Cheerio
Brett

First off, I'm new here so Hi! Looks like a great site you have here... lots of info!

I drive a 2004 Elantra with 60k miles. Now, on to my problem:

This all started about three weeks / month ago when I had the timing belt replaced as advised by pratically everyone i've known that's owned one of these. I'm a computer guy, so I called up my mechanic buddy to take care of the work for me.

After he replaced it, (old belt was in worn but overall good shap) i drove the car about 300 miles over a couple weeks. After coming off the highway one day the car seemed sluggish. I had almost no power coming off a stop, and it would not rev over 3000 RPM. Also, CEL came on.

The next day I started it up and took it over to Checkers to have the code pulled, and it read crankshaft position sensor. I should point out that it was very rough starting. It drove smooth, execpt for the lack of power.

Later that day I fired it up again and took it to my mechanic. He pulled the sensor and has reported to me that it's chewed up. (Have not seen it myself yet)

I gave him the go-ahead to replace it and he did. Also, at this point I should note that as the cold weather hit we discovered that the battery is most likely bad. The car won't start now (Would not start the last time he tried before replacing the sensor). I've called around and decided that before I have him do anything else I'm going to have him replace the battery tomorrow. It's under warranty from Autozone.

My question is, Is it possible that a improper install of the timing belt caused the problem with the sensor? The car was running perfect after the belt replacement, no odd noises or vibration or anything so i believe the timing was still correct.

Also, what could cause the vehicle not to start (besides a bad batty) with this repair? The batty is still reporting 10v during cranking, but was told buy someone at my local Hyundai delearship that its possible that the computer is not firing because of low voltage. If it is still a no-start tomorrow after the battery is replace i'm going to have it towed to the dealership for diag and repair. I'm also thinking of going after my mechanic for the cost of repair through legal means if it turns out that he is responsible for the damage caused. (I was told by the servic tech at hyundai that it is possible but I wanted to see what you guys think)


Thanks for taking the time to read my long post... Sorry if I missed a similar post in the forum already.



Brian

I was at a Advanced Auto today and stopped to talked to a women when the guy was checker her battery outside the store. She said she had under 70 K miles on a 2004 Elantra. She had trouble starting it one cold day and had the orig battery. Did not know the out come

BUT

I told her I was smelling coolant with the hood open and the car running. She did not seem too concerned. Thought it was odd but could only give some many "Blues clues" without being too overbearing.

Now my 97 Elantra with 185 has been GREAT on the coolant department. I think I did two flushes since I bought it in 1999 with 64K miles, OK should have done one more but it has has no leaks, or anything replaced.

Need to flush my 2001 I bought to replace it with 134600 miles.

Just thought I would pass this on. It might get someone to check there records and flush there coolant.

Keep it rolling.

Looking to get inexpensive 195/60/15 tires used or new
Where is a good place to buy them?

Thanks

The dash board lights and the running lights or parking lights will not turn on. We have checked the fuses, they seem to be fine. The dimmer switch is turned up. Anyone know what the problem could be, or how to fix it?

Ok. n00b here, been a frequent visitor but never a contributor seeings as I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to cars. I ususually leave diagnosing up to the pros but I've felt let down by a lot of Hyundai techs so I figured I'd get a few opinions or maybe see if anybody has heard of something similar.

I drive an 04 Elantra GT with just under 90K on it. Well maintained, never had any issues prior to this. My bad experience with their Service Dept. revolves around a bad alternator that died out within the first 10,000 miles of ownership. Hyundai then made me pay for repairs, despite my warranty.

Last week I was driving home from work when my CEL came on. Took it to AutoZone for a free scan in which they pulled code "P0010" Camshaft position (CMP) actuator, intake/left/front, bank 1 – circuit malfunction Wiring, CMP actuator, ECM... They didn't have ANY idea what it meant and when they gave me the printout he told me "Take this to a mechanic and he can probably tell you whats wrong."

So I took it to my friend who scanned it with his Snap-On Solus. It pulled 2 codes P0010 & P0341 (Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance) . On the way home from his house the car began making a grinding/knocking/cranking noise (almost like the J-brake on a 18 wheeler) every time I decelerated and it would stop just before I came to a complete stop. Since then I hear the noise once in a while, normally on deceleration, but occasionaly when I first start the car.

Today on my off day, I took it my private mechanic, who only pulled the P0010. I told him about the noise, and when I cranked on the car, the noise didn't want to come out of hiding. He reset the light and told me to come back if it happens again. Nothing as of right now.

All I'm trying to decipher is what COULD BE causing these problems, and what the possible fixes would be. Also, could the noise and CEL codes be related, considering I never experienced anything until the CEL came on?

If ya'll need any more info just let me know. I'll try and get what I can. Thanks for the help guys.

Is there anyone out there who knows anything or has heard anything about thrust washers/camshafts/crankshafts and their respective "seals" going bad in the Elantra. The dealer diagnosed the thrust washers coming out of the motor frame and causing seals to come off/out as the problem and my car now needs a new motor. There is no warranty on the vehicle for reasons I don't even want to go in to, but I KNOW that this is not something that would go bad in the 7 months/9,000 miles since I purchased the car used from a Hyundai dealership. I need info on this problem. Can someone please help/respond?

Is it normal to have alot of vibration coming through the floorboard of a 2006 Hyundai Elantra? Has anyone else had this problem?

I just recently purchased a 2006 Hyundai Elantra and I am very dissatisfied. I feel a tremendous amount of vibration through the gas and brake pedals while idling and driving. Aslo some vibration through the steering wheel. It is so uncomfortable to drive because my leg gets knumb after driving it for awhile. I would have never purchased this car if I knew it would perform like this. I have taken it to two different dealerships and they have said the vibration is normal. Wow!!! I can't believe a car manufacturer would place a car on the market that would be so undesirable to drive. Have others expereinced this problem with the Elantra. I am so dissatisfied that I may sell my car and purchase another one. Is there anything I can do?

Well on my way home from work turning onto my street, the wheel pulls hard to the right and i had to use some Force Correct it.
then i proceed to make a u-turn this is when i hear this Grinding / Weird Clicking Nose coming from the Front of the car. I am not to sure what the heck is wrong.
.
any ideas? other then not drive the car.


Thanks David

Hello, I have a 2002 santa Fe, and the headlight do not turn on. only the high beems work only if you hold the passing lever in. any fixes? thanks johnny m

2001 Elantra with 134,600 miles

Tachometer not working. Just bought and it did not work.
Where is a good place to start fixing it.

Thanks

How much should I expect to pay for parts & installation of a new clutch for an '02 Elantra? Generally, is it really more expensive to have the Dealership do the job? Thanks for the help.

I have a problem with my right turn signal, started last night flashing very fast. Looked and the front light was burnt out (at least that is what it looked like). Bought new light, put it in and it worked well for a minute - if that - and it is back to the fast signal. Checked the old bulb and it tests out fine, the rear bulb looks good as well. I am leaning towards it being the relay, is this correct? If so where is the relay located and is the right and left in the same unit or can I swap them around to see if this is the problem.

Thanks,

Mike

What do you guys do to treat rust underneath a car.
I bought a 2001 Hyundai Elantra 134,600 miles and want to work it up before winter.
Thanks

I just got a call from a shop that my car needs a rear suspension arm while they're replacing its timing belt.
they already ordered the part via hyundai dealership for $180. (I'm not even going to discuss how much for the labor.
they're still waiting for the part to be delievered, but I'd like to know if anybody had a similar situation where your car needed a rear suspension arm replaced.
and I'd like to know how much it cost for you.
also, if $180 sounds about right from a dealership, is there another way to get it cheaper oem part, such as online company?

I have a 2001 Elantra GLS with 132,000 miles on it and my check engine light came on and AutoZone said the error code is P0440 for the evaporative system. I got a new gas cap (they recommended this) and that made it go out for about 50 miles and then it came back on. I took the car back to AutoZone and had it checked again and as I expected it had the same code. They let me clear it so that I could find out if it would come on again and the next day it did at almost the same place it did the previous time. I can drive from home to the college and then almost all the way back home and then it comes on at about 50 miles almost exactly.

I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on what I could do to correct this problem, I have to renew my registration but I got lucky and this time don't have to get the emissions check since I did it last year and it is good for two years only then I had to get a new flex pipe installed to pass it. However I will not know if any other problems occur because the CEL will already be on for this problem so I want to get it fixed plus it will probably be better for the car also.

I have recently on my own replaced the spark plugs & wires and the input speed sensor for the transmission both of which made the check engine light come on. I read how to replace the speed sensor here when I did that.

If I can find out exactly what needs replaced, where it is, and how to do it then I could probably do it myself unless it requires special training and equipment.

Thanks for your time.

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and I have a problem with the drivers side door. The keyless remote operates all the doors except the drivers side door. I need to open the drivers side door with the key. I can lock and unlock all doors manually using the drivers side door it just dosen't operate with the key fob, seeking your assistance. 2003 elantra GT. Thanking all in advance.

For the last couple of months, whenever I start the engine of my 2003 Elantra, I sometimes hear a "whoosh" sound as I turn the ignition. It starts up fine, but I am wondering what the "whoosh" is that follows. It seems to have started right around the time I changed my timing belt, but it didn't occur that often at the beginning. Now, iit has been occurring more often as the weather is getting colder. Normally I would hear it when the engine is cold, so first thing in the morning...usually after that, it's fine for the rest of the day. As I said, I have no problems starting the engine, but I wonder why I am hearing this. Any ideas to what this is?

I have to replace the first O2 sensor in my 2005 Elantra GLS (Manufactured Sept 2004 if that made a difference). I'm trying to find out the correct aftermarket part and i think it's supposed to be a Bosch 17014 (that the LSU4.2 wide band sensor) but everywhere says it's a 4-wire (autozone, advanced auto parts, napa, and even bosch) but looking under the hood the sensor is definitely a 5-wire (going into a six pin "D" type connector.) Of course the dealers won't tell me anything since they want me to pay they're insane markup, one dealer said the part was 130 bucks and another said 165. yeah, advanced auto parts has the 17014 for 55 bucks. So in short is the 17014 LSU4.2 wideband o2 sensor compatible with the 2005 Elantra GLS engine? Thanks a bunch.

2001 Hyundai Elantra 5sp GLS
What is the passenger wheel sensor for?
No sensor on the Driver's side.
The breaks don't look like ABS?

Thanks

I have just installed some new rims on my 2001 Elantra I think they look awesome, However I now have a cosmetic and safety issue.

Firstly I wold like the car to pull up a whole lot quicker and I have come to realise that the standard issue brakes only come with a single piston (Plain and simply Crap) I have looked at other models in the Wedgie (Hy undi) range but none are better.

Has anyone or does anyone know of a better brake callliper set for this model. (Minimum two pot calliper preferrable a four pot calliper). I am going to change all the brake assemblies, resovior and bias controls to match.

Secondly the rotor looks completely lost in the rim it literally looks like a dinky toy, so I am looking for a larger disc that would suit as well.

If any one can help this would be awesome, I am trying to make my little car one of the biggest sleepers around as I am sure noone expects a wedgie to fly and stop on a dime

I popped the hood of my car recently, and noticed this pink buildup of, what, I don't know. [attachmentid=9997]

The buildup is mainly around a hose that is coming from the radiator. If anyone has any insight as to what this might be, please let me know. I have attached a couple of photos of the area in question. [attachmentid=9998]

Thanks.

Hello all,
I own a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. I have about 51000 miles on it and it has been an awesome car. I changed the brake pads back in March (left the rotors they looked fine) and since then I've noticed a high pitched vibration like hum while I'm driving. This hum goes away when I brake. Now tonight as I'm pulling into the parking lot at work, I hear this loud metallic grinding coming from the rear drivers side like something seized up. I looked underneath the car...nothing. I then noticed a nasty groove in the rear driver side rotor. The pads still look fine, but how can I fix this to at least get home in the morning?? And does anyone know what the high pitched humming could have been? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Gus

Just a question if anyone has had this happen to them!
After removing the 4 lug nuts while in the process of taking off summers and installing winters, I expected the tire to slide off nicely like every other car I have owned. No dice. It is stuck on there like a mofo. It looks like the car was designed to have an extremely tight fit between the "hole in the centre of the wheel" and the hub assembly (which has a big cotter pin). The hub is rusty perhaps from living in humid Ontario for awhile. I haven't attempted the other three tires and will just go to the shop rather than risk damaging something.
Taking it to the shop does not bother me, but I wonder what could have happened if this occurred on the highway when I would not have axle stands or a sledge. Has this happened to anyone and does anyone have any tips on how to avoid this or even on how to get the tire off??? Thanks! Got to get them on soon to prepare for the harsh winter in Cold Lake, AB.

I can't find at aftermarket Purge Control Solenoid Valve for Elantra 2002.
(Hyundai price $69.92)
Can somebody help me?
My e-mail: mikeapopov@yahoo.com
Thanks in advance.

Hi,
does enybody know, what's the difference between 95910-2D350 and 95910-2D500 units?

I've the first one in my car (Elantra XD 2003, 2.0 Diesel), but it's highly possible, that it'll be necessary to replace it - code B1620 - Internal failure. I can buy the same unit from my dealer for 22000CZK or from www.fourgreen.com 95910-2D500 for 5000CZK. My dealer told me, that 95910-2D500 unit is for Elantra WITH side airbags, but all sellers on ebay offer it for Elantra without side airbags...

Thanks for help!

The radio/CD in my 2002 Elantra VE works great except for the volume/bass/fade control.

The volume is at level 10 but remains there if I turn the control.

Also I see no way of turning the unit off except to hit the mute button.

The audio section in the manual does not show the same audio model.

Can anyone help?

Is the Input Speed Sensor in the same location on the 5sp as in the automatic?


This is the DIY for the automatic transmission
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index.php?sh...ut+speed+sensor

I am posting here for help on my dads 01 elentra. he bought the car used about 8 months ago a/c worked fine, now nothing. freon is at correct level, relay is good, cabin air filter is clean, cooling fan is working. here is what he has noticed, cooling fan is making more noise than it did earlier, comp will work and produce cool air if you force it by means of bridging the relay. it has been to a/c shop, they find nothing. what items limit the compressors operation? ecm has been replaced 3 times and conditions exist for all 3 ecm's. where can i find a wiring schematic for the a/c system? any hekp would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance

Ok, first off I'm new here, so HI FROM UTAH.

but me question is, my wife's 01 elantra gls kinda died on us yesterday. We got on the freeway and on the on ramp it felt like the power was cut in half. So I pulled off the next exit to the gas station and shut her down. Popped the hood and it smelled weird, but didnt see any signs of leakages or anything. It didnt overheat. and no check engine light. So I started her back up and the engine shakes like its only running on 2 cylinders.

I pulled the plugs and they look like they are firing just fine. We bought this car new in 2001 and I've kept up on the maintance. its got 73,000 on it. just havent got to the timing belt yet.

so any ideers on what it could be? I'm gonna call the dealer tomorrow, but I never trust them so I'd like to know somewhat of an idea of what it is before I take it there.