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wildeyes |
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Yesterday, 10:49 PM
Last post by: wildeyes |
coming home from work tonight, the clock started flashing. first really slow then super fast like a strobe light. then it stopped for a few minutes and then started again. i got home before it stopped, and when i turned the headlights off the clock stopped flashing.
'02 with 91k miles on it. aftermarket cd player/radio (which was on, cd, at the time. i switched it to the radio with no effect.) radio has been installed over a year with no issues.
was kinda creepy...
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ebmf |
8 |
Yesterday, 11:28 AM
Last post by: ebmf |
I recently to my 02 Elantra to the tracks, it has a short ram and a performance muffler, I started off the line, but when I shifted into a higher gear at 80, the car lost all of it's power and the other car when flying by me. and they never used to do that. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
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Elantra2004 |
14 |
Yesterday, 05:04 AM
Last post by: Elantra2004 |
Went to a mechanic today, took the Elantra for a drive.
The clutch is slipping and will need a clutch kit and at least
a resurfacing.
Parts were quoted by the dealership at around $350 and 4 hours labor.
Anyone else that has been through this, please let me know:
1.. What it cost
2. What they did
3. Where you had the work done
4. How long was your car in their possession
5. Any tips you can offer on where to get it done at a reasonable price.
Thanks
Dave
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Elantra2004 |
38 |
Yesterday, 05:00 AM
Last post by: Elantra2004 |
Hi
New California member here.
2004 Elantra (60000 miles) with 5 speed manual transmission. 2.0 liter
It's almost like there is a lag between shifting and accelerating...When I was a kid and was riding my Honda 50...
I'd shift and accelerate, and the acceleration happened as I gave the bike the gas.
With the Elantra, it's almost as though there is a lag time.
I'm not a mechanic, and this problem came on slowly.
I'm thinking maybe it's the clutch wearing out?
I'd like to take it to the shop tomorrow, but I'd like to know what I'm dealing with first.
Also, would this be something that may be under warranty still
(I have a dealership somewhat close to me).
Thanks
Dave
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Elantra2004 |
14 |
17th March 2010 - 10:30 PM
Last post by: nick944 |
Just a note here...
if you head up hill and find that all of a sudden, you have no acceleration going uphill,
but have it ok when headed downhill or on flat land...
plug in an OBD reader...
We had no "check engine light", but the
oxygen sensor had failed at 4000' elevation.
Worked fine down the hill, but couldn't go higher up until we
replaced the sensor.
hope my experience helps someone out there.
Dave
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nickv41 |
34 |
17th March 2010 - 11:39 AM
Last post by: nickv41 |
I've noticed that when my 2006 Elantra sits overnight in the rain, when I start to drive the next day I hear a rubbing sound coming from the rear brakes.
The sound goes away after a block or two of driving and all is ok. I never get this noise on dry days. What could it be and is this normal?
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bjl584 |
48 |
17th March 2010 - 06:58 AM
Last post by: bjl584 |
It's time to change my timing belt, so I went to the Advance Auto by me the other day to get some pricing info. Then i got to thinking. I believe that if you look in the owners manuals for a Honda, a Toyota, or a Volkswagen, they all recommend that you replace the timing belt at 100,000 mile intervals. So why then does Hyundai call for their belts to be changed at 60,000? I would assume that the timing belt on my Elantra is basically the same belt doing the same job on an engine of similar size and power as it is on a compareable car brand. Basically all entry level cars have a 4 cylinder engine and put out around the same hp and tourque, so why does Hyundai want me to replace my belt so much sooner than everyone else? Is it a legal thing due to the 100,000 mile warranty that they offer, or is their some other reason? I am just curious. Thanks.
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skanji |
38 |
16th March 2010 - 09:37 AM
Last post by: skanji |
For my 2002 Elantra, I took it in to get assessed whether or not I needed my Control Arm and Sub frame fixed due to the recall.
I got a call that indeed both had to be replaced but that my power steeting return line is badly corroded and needs to be replaced which will cost $275.
He said it would last about 6 months before it started to leak and that the power steering return line would have to be moved in order to get to the control arm and sub frame.
Firstly, how accurate is the description?
Secondly, is $275 reasonable? If not, can I go to any shop to get this done or should I stick to Hyundai for their parts and not take chances with OEM parts for the power steering return line?
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tr3ndsetta |
14 |
15th March 2010 - 09:32 PM
Last post by: jsinton |
Hello guys, I recently purchased a 2001 Elantra GLS with auto transmission. The car runs smooth, tires are new, no check engine light and engine sounds beautiful.
However when I drove it today I noticed the tachometer wasnt working. The car ran and shifted fine but the tachometer didnt move. The speedometer worked fine, gas gauge and temperature gauge too.
What could be the problem?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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sl0flyer |
48 |
15th March 2010 - 08:12 PM
Last post by: jsinton |
Last Week:The engine starts up and revs to about 3k rpm for about 5 seconds, then drops down to 500 rpm and chugs like its starved for fuel.
When I give it gas, it will rev up smoothly, but then it looses it and the rpm drops down again. If I hold the gas down, it will just rev up and down in 5 second intervals. Its below freezing outside... it doesn't seem like an electrical problem would cause this behavior. Could it be water in the fuel? Thank you.
As of Friday: After putting fuel injector cleaner in it and driving it a few miles, the problem cleared up for 3-MONTHS. Now it is doing the same thing again. Until it is warmed up, it stumbles and misfires.
Codes:
-p0301
-p0303
-p0304 misfire on cylinders 1-3-4
-P0171 running lean
-p1166 ???
Saturday: It has specific symptoms -With steady pressure on the gas pedal the engine revs up and down... though this seems to have gotten better since we added fuel additive. -It idles at barely less than 500rpm and shakes. You can hear a misfire. Then when you push on the gas, it chugs then stalls. When done correctly, you can pump the gas pedal to get the engine to go above 1500rpm at that point, it seems to run OK... though you can still hear a random misfire. Sometimes while idling you push on the gas pedal and the RPMs wont fall back down. It still drives around. Once it is warmed up, you can get it to go from a stop by slowly pushing on the gas pedel as it chugs up to a higher rpm.
Now: It was suggested that we put Seafoam in the tank. Cured the problem for about 15 miles, now its gradually getting worse again. It seems to run fine above 1500rpm... but it hesitates at low throttle
So far we think it could be the AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR, FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR, CLOGGED FUEL FILTER, OR SOMETHING IN THE TROTTLE CONTROL
PLEASE HELP
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PsychoFan |
31 |
15th March 2010 - 12:17 PM
Last post by: jsinton |
2002 Hyundai Elantra with slightly under 88,000 miles.
Took my car into the local NTB for an oil change and tires rotation/balance last Thursday. Was told that the tie rods needed to be replaced, so I said fine and to go ahead and do it. The next day (and $600+) later, the car shakes at low speed (between 10-30 mph), not so much during acceleration, but badly during coasting. Took the car back to the same NTB on Sunday and after an inspection, was told that the belt had dissociated from one of the tires which was why the car was shaking. Fine, went ahead and replaced that tire and its complement. ON the drive home, noticed some shaking still, but it was 5pm and had been waiting at the shop since 9am, so I decided to go home instead (thinking maybe, it was just due to new tires). Monday morning, driving on a highly congested/slow highway, the shaking returns. This time, the shaking was probably worst than before (the rear antenna was bouncing all over the place) at those same coasting/rolling low speed (15-30mph). It was so bad that I just left the car at another shop (Merchants). What could be wrong?
At the NTB on Sunday, I did notice 3-4 guys banging/pushing against something under the front passenger side, but was too far away to see exactly what. In any case, it didn't seem to bother them enough as they quickly went onto something else and I wasn't told specifically about it.
Any thoughts?
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mkaresh |
6,578 |
14th March 2010 - 05:31 PM
Last post by: jms0966 |
Because existing sources of auto reliability information left much to be desired, in late 2005 I started conducting my own reliability research at
TrueDelta.com. TrueDelta reports absolute stats like "trips to the shop" that make the differences between cars much clearer. Results are updated four times a year, so any significant changes in a model's reliability become apparent quickly.
Thanks to the help of this forum, for which I'm very grateful, we've been providing results for the Sonata, Santa Fe, and Tucson for some time. I'd like to do the same for the Elantra, but don't yet have enough owners signed up to participate.
Participants simply report repairs the month after they occur on a one-page survey. When there are no repairs, they simply report an approximate odometer reading four times a year, at the end of each quarter.
To encourage participation, panel members receive full access to the results for free.
For the details, and to sign up to help out:
Vehicle reliability research
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papa_jefe |
94 |
14th March 2010 - 02:18 PM
Last post by: NickRo |
Hi everyone, when pushing in the clutch to change gears my 2002 Elantra's RPM speed has always stayed high for a second or 2 and I have read plenty of threads with this same issue. I have just figured thats the way it is. But, now what is happening is un-ignorable. Now, when you are driving down the road and you push the clutch in to coast this happens..... The RPM's shoot up to around 4000 for a couple seconds, then drop to about 2000 for a second then drops to around 1000 for a second then shoots back up to about 3000 for another second then finally, it will settle back to about 600 or 800 and will stay there. Driving around in a parking lot looking for a place to park is most embarrasing. This happens EVERY time. Even while parked if you are not in gear and the clutch is not pushed in, if you push the eccelerator or just tap it the RPM's do the same erratic up and down thing. The odd thing is, while in gear and driving it acts completely normal, the car runs great, so while changing gears we do so as fast as possible to avoid the embarrasing hi rev. Please help, Thank you.
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my exel is awsome |
60 |
13th March 2010 - 09:56 PM
Last post by: jsinton |
Goes in for a service on tuesday. When i was driving from work on the highway the back of the muffler blew off so now she sounds loud.
The car needs a few little things but everything looks good, Got most of the stickers off. Has 16" rims.Good on fuel econemy. There is a ticking sound from the engine but like i said ill get the garage to sort it out.
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robm99x |
38 |
13th March 2010 - 04:33 PM
Last post by: dre2390 |
Hi,
Does anyone have any links or pictures or anything about how to disassemble the dashboard for a 2006 Hyundai Elantra? Especially the radio assembly area?
Thx
Rob
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nickv41 |
119 |
11th March 2010 - 02:13 PM
Last post by: jsinton |
I have searched threads but could not find an answer to this question.
My 2005 Elantra has been good to me. Reliable and a great value. More or less short runs totalling about 5,000 miles a year. Currently, I have 28,000 trouble free miles on it.
The Service Dept Consultant says I should replace the timing belt as it has been 5 years regardless of the low mileage. Is he pulling my leg? This dealership is always trying to sell me useless, unecessary services.
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7
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saugen48 |
339 |
11th March 2010 - 01:41 PM
Last post by: gatillo |
It has been posted on here previously, that they are replacing these lower control arms at no cost and re-embursing those who have paid to have it done.
That is all true. They are also checking the forward frame component if corroded and replacing that free of charge as well before re-imbursing the customer.
My frame is currently on order and waiting for it to arrive.
The wife gave her 2002 Elantra to the granddaughter and I have made arrangements for that to go in for lower control arm replacement and possible frame replacement also.
Wasnt sure if everyone was aware of the frame check
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2005 Hyundai Elatra GLS |
19 |
10th March 2010 - 09:53 PM
Last post by: 2005 Hyundai Elatra GLS |
Hey all,
I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. I installed a Cold Air Intake (CAI) and I am now looking to upgrade the exhaust. I have looked online everywhere and I am having trouble finding some. When I go to different places (Midas, Pep Boys etc) and they dont have anything.
I am looking for a performance exhaust that will provide more horsepower and fuel efficiency. I wouldnt mind it louder but I hate the bumblebee fart can sound. So if it could provide these features and remain quiet or provide a nice sound then cool.
I see my Elantra has two catalytic convertors. I think this is overkill and was thinking that removing at least one of them would improve air flow. I am sure this will throw a code. Has anyone removed at least on of their catalytic convertors on their Elantra?
Has anyone had their Hyundai Elantra ECU remmaped to compensate for a removed convertor or to improve power?
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35
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Mathieu123 |
1,293 |
10th March 2010 - 01:00 PM
Last post by: masomase |
Just wondering how much mileage your elantra has!
Mine is a 2002 Elantra VE and it has 214 XXX KM.
PS: don't forget to put km or miles!
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mcclete22 |
42 |
10th March 2010 - 06:47 AM
Last post by: NickRo |
Ok so here is where I am at. Windshield wipers were not moving when I first started my car. After a few minutes they wipers would work. Driving the other day in a storm, wipers quit halfway up the windshield and wouldn't move.
Yesterday took the car to the dealership they checked the relays and switch and said it was all good, and I needed a new wiper motor. Dealership didn't have one so I went to a parts store and got one (refurbished). It was the only one that I could find. Took it home and through a lot of luck (I am not really mechanically inclined) got the old one off and the new one on.
I want to mention here that it was a real huge pain to get the old motor off from the wiper linkage. It took a lot of work because that baby was not letting go (I only mention this because this may be part of the problem?). So here are the steps I have taken thus far.
1- Checked the fuse and it is good.
2- Dealership checked the swith and relays and said they are good.
3- replace the old motor with the refurbished motor.
4- Wipers still do not work.
Talked to the parts store and they said another store was getting the part today, I am taking the original motor in, exchanging it for another motor, and will try installing the motor I get today.
I am worried I might have a linkage problem maybe? When I hit the lever for the wipers, they do move, but very slightly, maybe 1/4 of an inch. If I put just the smallest bit of pressure on the driver's wiper they work.
Any advice, help, or suggestions?
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somethingsomethingsomethin |
31 |
9th March 2010 - 07:11 PM
Last post by: jsinton |
A friend and I are replacing the clutch components on my '02 elantra, using a Hayne's manual for guidance. We got everything apart and tried to drop the transaxle onto the jack, and it didn't budge. Every bolt and mounting that could possibly get in the way is out, it just would not move.
We finally got a prybar to try to (carefully) force it apart. It would come out about half an inch so that the gear teeth on the flyweel were visible, then we'd try to pry the other side and the side we'd just pried would be forced back in, like it was pivoting on something in the center. We both tried prying at the same time on opposite sides. It came loose, we go to lower the jack a little to try to pull it away and it snaps right back on.
We've got it shimmed out at least an inch and a half right now around the entire diameter, and it's putting so much pressure back that any new shims we try to drive in are just chewed apart. The prybar moves it a couple centimeters on either side, almost no movement if we try to pry both at once. It feels like we're fighting some kind of spring right in the center of the flywheel, but I'm just completely mystified as to how that's possible.
We drained the gear oil as well, it was pretty low (maybe a quart and a half? The car's supposed to have 3 in there). Otherwise right now I can only see the engine side of the flywheel and the gear teeth on it. Google has turned up nothing like this and I'm at my wit's end.
I'll try to take some pictures next time I head up to work on it (using my parent's summer camp because it has a heated garage). Anyone have any idea what could be causing this and how we can get this thing apart?
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CorpSe |
109 |
9th March 2010 - 01:19 PM
Last post by: DB4761 |
Hi I'm new here so go easy please ...lol
I've just purchased a second hand elantra 2.0 hvt hatch back and it drives beautifully....
this is my 4th hyundai purchase over the years and i need a car to get me to the train station and back
My problem is this...I just recently cooked a 2000 model 1.8l elantra hatch, radiator seperated and cooked the engine badly...
so after my newer purchase i was swapping over the good bits like my brand new front discs and pads etc ..and also my mag wheels,
arrrrgggg this is when i noticed my problem ....the sway bar is mounted via a small ball joint dropper style thingy (sorry for my accurate use of terminology)
well this small bar (of approx 3 and a bit inches) is missing(drivers side)... so i though cool, i'll pinch it off my old beast...yep you guessed it, the bugger that was on my old elantra was snapped off from the control arm...this to me appears to be a design fault as the hole that is drilled into the control arm for the mounting purpose of the dropper rod is very close to the top of that u shapped metal and snapped off there also, the bit of metal is still under the lower ball joint fastening nut...
when i puchased my old beast brand new nearly 10 years ago it always had a knock in the front suspension... i took the car back numerous times to the Australian Campbelltown NSW dealer and they couldnt find a problem and made out like i was full of s@#t... i believe this was my knocking noise all the time...the sway bar was never doing its job ... I need to take the newer one down and point it out...
I cant believe i would be unlucky enough to be the only one that has this drama and then got it on 2 seperate year models that i own ...have others had this problem...
ohh by the way ive looked at a few in secondhand car yards and noticed another 2 like it.... this makes me believe its a design fault...can any one else varify this for me, before i go down and rip it into the dealer ...for selling me a potentially dangerous vehicle
cheers CorpSe I will supply photos shortly to help anyone understand from both vehicles
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Brett777 |
8,351 |
8th March 2010 - 04:07 PM
Last post by: cace2002 |
Hey guys! First real post here..
I had some trouble with my Hyundai 2001 Elantra GT recently. Just after my 60k mile bumper to bumper warranty was up I started getting a P0715 and P1529 troublecode. The real deal is the P0715 which is the Input Speed Sensor on the Transmission. I would clear the codes with a scan tool and they would come back usually within 30 minutes of driving. When the check engine light comes on the car locks itself into 2nd or 3rd gear.. mine always seemed to be 3rd gear. At first I thought it had to be a loose cable, but I just ended up replacing the sensor and everything seems great now.
I took a bunch of pictures for anyone else with this problem, it's really simple to fix if you have a couple tools (philips screwdriver, 10mm and 12mm sockets with extensions, 10mm wrench, dentist like pick, air compresser or can of compressed air, and a magnetic pickup tool is helpful).
I purchased the $50 vol. 1 service manual for my vehicle and it really doesn't help you much in the replacement, or even location, of the input speed sensor (to the transmission). It just has a quick one-page flow chart to diagnose the problem if you are seeing the P0715 code. Actually, if you are seeing this code, more likely than not the dang sensor is bad. These hall-effect magnetic pickup sensors seem to be a good source of income for dealers because they fail like crazy. There does seem to be a life to them though, but consistently after 60k they seem to either go bad, or hang on for a while longer. My dealer said they replace them constantly. Anyhoo, save yourself the $50 for the manual and just get the $66 sensor.
Here we go:
Pictures continued in next post...
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3
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jamesd |
66 |
8th March 2010 - 12:49 PM
Last post by: LarryNH914 |
I am looking at purchasing a 2005 Elantra with 83 000 KM. When test driving it I noticed that the clutch doesn't engage the gear until my foot is almost off the pedal (3/4s of the way up). Is this normal for this car or should I assume that the clutch is bad? I've read that there are some issues with the clutch of this car on the forum and that it often needs to be bleed. Would bleeding the clutch cylinder help in this case?
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1
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LarryNH914 |
31 |
7th March 2010 - 06:53 PM
Last post by: LarryNH914 |
2002 Temperature Gauge broke, how to replace?
Replaced sending unit, so that is not it. Also monitored temp with ODB-II connection. Looked fine (185 degrees F)
So it looks like I have to replace the instrument cluster that I can get used reasonably....
But.... I see reference to "reprogramming by the dealer" . I assume this is so odometer can't be faked....
Does anyone know if a used cluster would just work"? I don't really care about odometer.
Or is the odometer reading stored elsewhere which would be great!
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crewieboy |
38 |
7th March 2010 - 04:19 PM
Last post by: crewieboy |
have taken my elantra 2.0 auto on its 1st longish run today ,i covered approx 150 miles mainly on open road with average speed between 65 - 70 mph the car is showing 20.3 mpg surely this is a very low mpg ,its had new cambelt kit ,spark plugs,oil and filter change before the run ,anybody have any suggestions why mpg is so low ?
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6
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rifle |
164 |
7th March 2010 - 01:11 PM
Last post by: paulsg63 |
Hello,
I have a 2002 Elantra with 176.00 miles. The car still runs great and I have had to replace the usual stuff. However, the other day I stepped on the accelerator pedal to make a pass on the Interstate and the car has not been the same. When the car shifted down to make the pass it sounded like it shifted into too low of a gear and revved up a little more than normal. Since then the throttle is erratic at both idel and driving speeds, +-1000 rpm. the temperature gage fluctuates, and both cooling fans run from cold starts in the morning through the entire drive. I tried dissconnecting the negative battery cable in hopes I may get lucky with no luck. I have always performed most of my own mechanic work due to financial restraints but Im dont even know where to start without a scanner or some type of diagnostic test. I understane there is a relay for the ECM, and in past experiences after replaceing expensive parts it usually turns out to be a relay.
Any Ideas before I take the care to a proffessional would be greatly appreciated. Like I said money is tight and If there something I can check/replace that would be great.
Thanks for any help you may be able to provide.
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1
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sgb2112 |
37 |
5th March 2010 - 05:42 PM
Last post by: tankeryanker007 |
36K on the odometer, I am the second owner, and just today the screeching sound started. the sound stops after a few seconds, but every time a switch on the AC, the car emits a little sqeal. Power steering fluid is full, have not noticed any leaks.. Anyone with an idea with what the problem might be & how much the repair cost at a dealership would be? Thanks.
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5
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bbtudor1 |
44 |
5th March 2010 - 04:47 PM
Last post by: bbtudor1 |
I noticed on my car door jam that the original tires that came with the car were size 185/60/R15 on the front and 195/60/R15 on the back. Can anyone tell me why the difference in size and would having 195/60/R15 in both front and back be all right?
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12
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Gargoyle |
1,536 |
5th March 2010 - 08:57 AM
Last post by: CFERN |
I have an '02 Elantra (bought new). A few years back, they had a recall for them to check out the exhaust manifolds for "cracking". I took mine in at the time (40-50K ?) and they checked it and said it was OK (no cracking). Well, I just took the car back in for the "seat airbag harness wiring" recall and an oil change (I'm at 83K now). Got a call saying it was almost done, and 'had I heard any new noisiness' lately. I mentioned I had heard a slight ting when starting, but it went away as it warmed up (I'm in Minnesota, and in the dead cold, cars make lots of odd noises when cold). Anyway he said the exhaust manifold had a crack and the flex pipe was getting pretty corroded, nothing that needed to be done immediately, more of the noise annoyance factor. I asked if the manifold would be covered by the original recall, and or the factory warranty. Now, as a disclaimer, my original dealership was just bought out and the guys running it now just started their operation (a block away) literally this week, and aren't fully hooked up and everything with "Hyundai Central" as it were, and weren't sure of the answer. Seems to me that if they (Hyundai) were worried enough to have a recall over the cracked manifold before, I would think that if a problem arose later (as in this case) it would be covered. And if not that (I haven't pulled out and tried deciphering the warranty yet), wouldn't the exhaust manifold be considered part of the powertrain? I could see the exhaust pipe itself not being covered, but the manifold? Anyway, they haven't turned me down or anything and really just mentioned it to me, and offered to keep track of it and ask the Official Hyundai guys when they are in next week, but his initial guess (and again, he wasn't sure, having just come from a Mitsu dealership) was that it would not be. So, anyone have any experience with this yet, or have solid warranty info off the top of their head? TIA.
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chrikeia |
14 |
5th March 2010 - 04:31 AM
Last post by: chrikeia |
I need to take one of my injectors out, have got it disconnected from fuel and electrical and it moves a little but wont come out, should it have more pressure put on it or is there some other way of removing it that Im not seeing,
Thanks Keith
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chrikeia |
19 |
4th March 2010 - 08:11 PM
Last post by: chrikeia |
I need to take one of my injectors out, have got it disconnected from fuel and electrical and it moves a little but wont come out, should it have more pressure put on it or is there some other way of removing it that Im not seeing,
Thanks Keith
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0
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jimy prajapati |
20 |
4th March 2010 - 04:20 PM
Last post by: jimy prajapati |
I have 2001 Hyundai Elantra. My car engine check light went on. Code for light check is P1529 & P0715. I went to mechanic he told me i had to replace TCM whch cost around 800$. Can anyone suggest me what to do?
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1
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Giandep |
78 |
3rd March 2010 - 04:45 PM
Last post by: jsinton |
I have a 2003 Elantra VE 2.0 L and a few days ago the engine check light went off. I checked the DTC and it gave me error P0340 that translate in Camshaft Position Sensor A - Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction. The car it's working fine. Can anyone help me!!! What should I do? Should I stop to drive and take the car to dealer. Any advice on what to check to verufy that it is a real problem. What should I do if I want to repair by myself?
Thanks
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scout2 |
40 |
2nd March 2010 - 09:22 PM
Last post by: tech1 |
On my 2002 elantra i have what sounds like an exhaust leak but cant find it and it sounds like its coming from the back of the motor. Could it be an intake leak? Thanks
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12
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2002ElantraGT |
101 |
2nd March 2010 - 08:31 PM
Last post by: rdkillians |
I have a problem that the throw out bearing is not seated on the pressure plate on a newly asssembled clutch.
The engine has been put back in the car.....and I didn't notice until now.
Is there a way to seat this bearing now?
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1
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ricci_27 |
38 |
1st March 2010 - 10:33 PM
Last post by: tech1 |
does the 2001 elantra 2.0 have an egr valve? and if so, where is it located?
thank you
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crewieboy |
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1st March 2010 - 05:15 PM
Last post by: crewieboy |
hi all ive just purchased a 2002 elantra 2.0 cdx here in the uk ,the window master switches on the drivers door work apart from the one that controls the passenger window ,the switch on the passenger door works fine so the problem as to be in the master switch ,how do i remove the master switch ? can it be done without removing all the door panel
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drago65 |
80 |
28th February 2010 - 12:37 PM
Last post by: MiamiLX |
I have a 2004 Elantra GLS and in the maintenance manual it states for replacement of the timing belt at 60k miles it is recommended but not required. Why is it different for Elantras in California? How will I know when it should be replaced?
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scout2 |
75 |
27th February 2010 - 05:51 PM
Last post by: scout2 |
Hi all this is my first post, I own a 2002 Elantra GTnwith 124,000. Lately I notice when my car sits for a while when I start it the rpm's jump way up and hang there for a bit before coming down or untill I let out the clutch and go. Any ideas? I searched but didn;t find too much thanks!!
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rtkacz |
63 |
27th February 2010 - 06:51 AM
Last post by: jsinton |
We've had a string of winter weather here, so driving has been a bit slick at times. However, my TCS light on my 2003 Hyundai Elantra has not turned off, not even on dry days. What is weird is that when I went through the car wash last month and the under carriage was washed, the light turned off when I went home. However, it turned on again and has been on ever since, even after I've had the under carriage washed. The car's at 42,000 and I wonder if a fuse is gone or something more serious?
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Cluth Issue
Clutch pedal will not go all the way to the floor
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2002ElantraGT |
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26th February 2010 - 10:15 PM
Last post by: rdkillians |
I recently changed out the engine in my 02 elantra.
I also put a new clutch assembly in & resurfaced the flywheel.
I have yet to put transmission fluid in....but I started the car in neutral and it runs great!
However, I had to manually push in the switch behind the clutch pedal to start it because the clutch won't go all the way to the floor.
If I manually push the clutch control arm in on the transmission, then I can push the clutch pedal to the floor, but that is a one shot deal.....it won't go to the original position after that first push of the pedal.
Does anyone know why this is happening? I can't imagine putting transmission fluid in will solve this, but I will obviously be doing that next.
Please help.
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noduleman |
136 |
25th February 2010 - 06:00 PM
Last post by: Montego |
Hi,
Does any know who the manufacturer is of Hyundai's timing belts? Its for my 2005 Elantra.
I was wondering if the Gates brand is off the same quality as the OEM.
Thanks!
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noduleman |
74 |
25th February 2010 - 10:11 AM
Last post by: jsinton |
Hi,
What is the correct oil viscosity for long engine life for a 2005 Elantra GLS?
In the separate Elantra maintenance log it states to use "10W-30, 10W-40." However, in the actual owner's manual it states to use "5W-20, 5W-30."
What are you guys running year round?
Thanks
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Dcurtis48 |
571 |
24th February 2010 - 08:38 PM
Last post by: scout2 |
Anyone have a problem with the rearview mirror buzzing loudly? It happens at almost all speeds and is quite annoying. The sound comes from inside the plastic housing of the mirror. I have tried everything I can think of short of replacing it. May come to that though because it is driving me insane!
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NickRo |
114 |
23rd February 2010 - 09:05 PM
Last post by: NickRo |
2002 Elantra GT manual tranny 156,000kms.
When you take your foot off the gas pedal, it often takes a long time for the rpm to drop (when in neutral, or with the clutch down, for example). In all other cars I have driven, the rpm's start dropping immediately you release the gas pedal. In this car, it seems to take a couple of seconds before the revs start dropping. This makes it harder to get the revs matched when you change gears, especially changing into a higher gear.
The throttle linkage seems to be OK, but I lubed it anyhow. The throttle butterfly closes immediately when you let go of the gas pedal. I can't see anything wrong. And the car drives very well in every other respect.
Does anyone have any ideas about what might be causing this problem? Thanks.
This is my girlfriend's car. She bought it a couple of weeks ago. I had never driven a Hyundai before, but I must say these are good cars.
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Is It A Lemon?
clutch issues, just lost all power steering fluid, electrical issues,
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capt_aaa |
110 |
23rd February 2010 - 07:51 PM
Last post by: capt_aaa |
Greetings fellow drivers,
Last week I purchased a '02 Elantra with 100,000 miles (160,000 km) first issue I faced was the turn signals and hazard flasher were frozen (not blinking) unless I swich the engine off then restart again,.
Every time I shift into 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears the engine would not rev down when the clutch is depressed.
today the power steering system blew up! the fluid was all over the hood and was dripping on the right side axle with lots of smoke from the burning oil apparently on the exhaust manifold oe the front exhaust pipe.
I had to drive the car for 2 miles without power steering.
Is this a ruptured hose or what? it occurred suddenly while the car was stand still.
any chance I can replace the hose myself?
I really appreciate your help and valuable input.
Cheers,
capt aaa
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robjames |
171 |
23rd February 2010 - 04:09 PM
Last post by: JLO2001elantra |
i have 2001 elantra 135k miles and output sensor is going out but just found out there is also an input sensor. do both needs to be replaced? and where can i find the sensors outside of a dealership? $107 each plus labor. can anyone tell me if you have installed yourself and if so, how hard. i have seen the schematics and it doesnt look too difficult. has been wonderful car and this is first problem. have had two previous hyundais, accent and sonata and only problems with all three have been transmission related...thanks to all who post.
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ndhoffma |
102 |
20th February 2010 - 07:23 PM
Last post by: sticky280zx |
I have an 01 elantra that suffered a slipped timing belt (had a freind who apparently ignored maintenance intervals). Since it's an interference engine, I'm assuming the engine is more or less shot, and will need to be replaced.
I've sourced an engine and am ready to get started on swapping them out but had a few questions
(unfortunately as I don't own the car, I don't have it on hand to look at)
For removing the engine, is it possible to pull through the top of the engine bay rather than dropping the subframe?
Are there any specialized/unique tools that I will need?
Anyone have any tips/advice or know of any DIY type instructions I could check out?
Thanks!
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mbcmiller |
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19th February 2010 - 06:30 PM
Last post by: mbcmiller |
i have a 2001 elantra gls just bought it and the headlights come on tail lights come on but no turn signals no interior lights like dome,trunk,hood,instument exept warning lights and gear indicator bar in dash i checked all fuses by eye at least the ones i could all are alright im so lost someone please help!
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3G (2001-2006) Elantra
