Hello Everyone, I have a problem where the car has a hard time starting in the morning. First time I try to start it, it cranks, then starts and runs very rough, sometimes stalling out. then the next turn of the key the car starts right up and runs fine. the car only starts hard first time each day. Plugs are newer, air filter is newer, oil change just performed.
H e l p. and Thanks.

I have an 04 elantra gt sedan , My code reader gave several codes, p0501 p0102 and p1166, The last code, I dont have any idea as to what it is, Can anyone help me??

Sorry!

My English not good, I have a question for DTC code P1529.
My 01 Elantra Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor (RF-WSS)(PN:95670-2D100) is broken.
Is this part same Front Right ABS Wheel Speed Sensor(PN:95670 2D150)
Can I use Front Right ABS Wheel Speed Sensor?

I like to share this 194-pages manual where yo can find everything about your transmission. You can find all AT components, where the sensors and rest of the components are. I this will be a great tool for all DIY.
Enjoy

I've got codes P0715, P0720 and P1529 on my Elantra 2002 and I've been reading the forums. Seems like I need to replace the input and Output sensors, but a friend recomend to flush the transmission first, Is this necessary?

Anyone have a repair for the mirror covers on the sunvisors?
The covers on both the passenger and driver side sun visor mirrors have broken. Is there a repair or replacement?
Color is khaki.

Thanks

I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra that started making a whistling noise once it gets hot. The noise goes a way when I push the gas peddle but comes back once I take my foot off the peddle. I think the noise is coming from the back of the engine near the fire wall but can not pin point it. Any help would be great.

Thanks

Chris

PS I would just like yo thanks everyone on here that has posted DIY stuff with your guys help I changed my speed sensor, brakes, and cleared up my foggy headlights.

I do see a similar post here, but I was wondering if anyone had an educated guess about the problem.

2002 elantra gls 125k miles
automatic


I have a very intermittant problem starting the vehicle first thing in the morning ( this has happened twice this week, but only 5-6 times in the past year or so). It will crank and sound as if it just about to start, but not quite fire. After 5-10 mins of cranking, shifting into and out of gear, rocking vehicle (not sure what actually causes it to start, if anything) the car fires and runs just fine, starting normally until the next "event".

PLugged it in and got no codes..

The only difference I can see is that every time this has happened recently the car has been parked in a parking garage at work on a minor incline for about 13 hours.

Any ideas would be appreciated


Thanks in advance

just a simple question Is tehre any dufference between 02 and 04-06 mud guards? i found a bunch of them on ebay for 04-06 but none for 02 can i use the 04 ones on my 02 elantra?

car will not start in park, but does start in neutral. hard to slide gear shift . could not find reverse but able to get into drive, then able to find reverse then not able to find park. able to drive forward and reverse when found.

Anything wrong with these headlight bulbs from ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/2x-Car-Auto-H7-Front-He...rts_Accessories

I have to switch my bulbs at least 2x a year, and it's becoming an expensive proposition.

Thoughts on these bulbs? Have you guys had any luck with them?

Cheers.

Should I drive my Elantra with a bad ocv valve? I broke the electrical connection off of the valve on the engine i just dropped in and REALLY need to drive it (only mode of trans). Im not too sure. I ran it a little bit already and hope to find a junked engine tomorrow but Ineed to drive it about 40 miles to get it home. I am a newbie here and to Hyundais in general. Thanks

My GF has a 2002 Elantra, and recently, she's had a remote start kit put in her car. Previously, though, we were moving something in/out of her car and broke the shift knob and the rod became bent, so we had to bend the rod back to be able to put the car back into park. (The car is an auto).

Recently, she's had a couple rough/no starts from her car. There have been a few times where she would come over to my house and the car would not restart soon after she turns off the ignition. However, the car will start rough about 3 hours later and run perfectly fine once it cranks. This doesn't happen often, but enough to be troublesome.

The problem with this though is the fact that sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't, and it runs PERFECTLY fine. The lights are not dimming, the battery is not dying, the car has not required to be jumped. While having these problems we drove the car around for about 5-6 hours and it was perfectly fine. Her dad thinks it's the alternator, but the battery hasn't been losing any charge and the battery hasn't been dying. There has been one time where her father moved the shifter up and down and put it back into park and the car started just fine. Could this be related to the shifter, and how the car isn't reading that's it's fully in park to relay ignition? Her dad said he tested the alternator and it was "bad," but like I said, if the alternator was bad, her battery would be losing charge, and that is definitely not the case.

Like I said, this problem doesn't happen often, but enough to leave her stranded, as it has twice already. I'm not sure how long it's been going on for, but if it were the alternator, the battery wouldn't magically charge itself and provide enough juice to start it, let alone keep it running for a few months on end. She doesn't get paid for another week and doesn't have money for a service charge until next week.

What do you guys think?

Hi Group,

This is my first post and first major service on hyundai Elantra.

I have a Hyundai Elantra 2005 GLS and its running pretty good. I had no problems, have been doing my oil change regularly. I have called my local Hyundai dealer and received a quote for 63K service. This is what is said:

1. Oil Change,
2. Tune-up
3. Spark Plugs.
4. Transmission Flush,
5. Coolant Flush,
6. Brake Inspection.
7. Tire Rotation
8. Timing Belt Change.

The total cost of it is : 800 + tax = $931.
Is anything missing. He said water pump is not necessary right now.

I am in Connecticut, Willimantic. Does this quote sound genuine. I have been calling a lot of dealers and they are quoting around the same price line.
I dont know any other reliable mechanic How can help me ?

Need feedback , comments and suggestion.

Thanks,

Just recently, my fuses both have blown for my 12v power outlet and my cigerette lighter. I use both frequently because I use them to charge my phone, to use my GPS, and for my IPOD. I've had this car for years and this problem just started happening. If I replace the fuses, as soon as I plug anything in, they automatically blow. I started taking off the panel... I'm thinking it may be a short. If it is or isn't... any suggestions?

drove to work after sitting a few weeks. after 40 miles check engine light came on continued to work no problems. after work started car light still on hard to shift from p to d during ride did not shift into overdrive, pulled into driveway put into p and slight forward jerk . turned off car. next day car will not start and cannot shift out of park? any help.

Hello,

I have an 05 Elantra GLS auto transmission, ~83000 miles. Last Friday, the car was driving fine. I didnt drive it on Saturday, but when I started it up Sunday night, that's where the issue began. First, when I shift into reverse, the car makes a noise like as when you go over a pot hole. Idle RPM is around 800.

When I press the gas pedal, usually the response from the car to go forward is almost instantaneous, but now it take a second or two from the time I press down the gas pedal to when the car moves forward. The process is smooth though, no hicups as it does that. Next, when I was driving on the highway between 70 - 80 MPH, the car's RPM was 4000 - 4500. It even sounds like the engine is "working harder" than it usually does. The 'Check Engine' light is also on with these codes: P0700 and P0885.

Another thing I noticed is that the car alternates between running fine and running with the conditions described above. If the car run with the symptoms described above, I shut off the car and restart it. Then it will run fine, but the check engine light will stay on. Then if I turn off the car and restart it, it will go back to the mode where I have the issues.

From some research, the P0700 code just means that the TCM has the actual code which is P0885. According to the tech manuals at www.hmaservice.com, the P0885 has the following probable causes.
- Malfunction of the A/T control relay
- Malfunction of connector
- Malfunction of the PCM

The car actually ran fine today, with out any issues but the Check Engine light is stuck on.

Does anyone know how to replace/service this PCM item? Or maybe this issue is covered under 100,000mile warranty?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Back in January I had a crankshaft position sensor go. In doing research on that several forums recommended replacing the camshaft position sensor since they typically go around the same time. I purchased my crankshaft sensor from the dealer and had some issues (they said they had it in stock after driving 2 hours they didn't, etc.) so I didn't want to go through the same thing with the camshaft sensor and looked online for a replacement.

I found one on Rockauto from Standard Motor Products. I put it on the shelf to do at the same time I replaced my valve cover gasket since it's right next to it...and as things go I finally got around to doing that last week and replaced the sensor at the same time (old sensor was working fine just trying to be preemptive).

I started the engine a couple times to make sure I didn't have any leaks from the gasket and to my surprise my CEL came on...my code reader said it was a P034 camshaft position sensor malfunction. Thinking maybe Rockauto sent me the incorrect sensor I pulled the new one out and compared it to my original sensor and they were exact, even down to the small writing on it 39350-23500, only thing it's missing is the small H in the circle.

So I reinstalled the old sensor, restarted the car a couple times and the CEL went out. Put the new sensor back in CEL came back, finally put the old sensor back in.

The next day I called Rockauto and complained they had sent me a defective sensor, they told me sorry I was out of the 90 day/3000 mile warranty and there was nothing they could do for me since they had sold quite a few of these sensors and hadn't had any returned as defective. I asked for the manufacturer's phone number and they gave it to me.

I called Standard Motor Products and was transferred to the Quality Control team. I spoke to David and explained the issue I was having and that even though I was out of warranty could he help me out. He said that SMP does not manufacture this sensor and in fact it is the same manufacturer as the OE and that they don't see any problems with this sensor. However, he said that he was very sorry for the inconvenience and would ship me out a new sensor immediately.

That's the kind of support I like to see from a company!

So, I got the sensor today and installed it and it still sets my CEL!!!!

Anyone have any thoughts as to why this would happen? I now have two sensors that I guess are good but for whatever reason won't work with my 2001 Elantra...I would put it down to junk manufacturing but why aren't other reporting problems?

Thanks for any help!!!

Frank

Hi , I just bought a hyundai elantra GT 2003 stick shift, and according to the kbb im supposed to get 27 mpg, but im actually getting 23, u may say well 4 mpg its not a bg deal but on a full tank its arround 50 miles, so i was wondering what s the average mpg u actually get, and if it is way higher than mine if you have any recoemndatiosn or ideas why my car is consuming so much,
thanks

Hi, I'm a newbie here. I have a 2005 Elantra (bought new), automatic transmission, 45,000 miles.

My transmission will lurch/jerk/stutter when shifting up between second and third; it never does this when shifting up between any other gears. First noticed this happening occasionally a few years ago, and at that time I read something online that indicated that Hyundai acknowledged that this was a “known issue”. Has anyone out there had a similar experience?

Also, complicating matters: the original dealer where I bought/serviced the car has since gone out of business, so in order to try to get this covered under the warranty, I would have to visit a different dealer entirely. Also, I have some -- but not all -- of the paperwork for the times I visited my original dealer for either routine service or repairs in the past. How difficult this will make it to get any warranty coverage to apply, even if the transmission problem is indeed a known issue?

Any info/personal experience would be appreciated,

Thanks
Tom

Hi, I bought my Hyundai Elantra used about a year ago and I have never been able to fill it up anywhere near the 14.5 gallons that the tank is supposed to take.

The very first time I filled up the car was when I got it delivered off the trailer to me. The car actually had a hard time starting because of how little fuel it had (that's a used car lot for you) but when I filled it up, I could not get it to take more than ~9 gallons even though I tried topping it off.

It steadily increased until today where I can usually get 11.2 gallons in it when I am running on fumes.

Is there some sort of 3-4 gallon reserve or is there something up with my tank? The car I had before this one never gave me difficulties like this. It had a 15.5 gallon tank and I would be able to give it around 15 gallons per fill-up. This is just a small issue, but considering that I get about 23 mpg, that's at least 70 more miles I could go if I could fill the car up some more.

Thanks for the help in advance! This is an awesome car and still one of my favorite looking ones on the road (especially with the awesome fang tail lights)!

I'm getting P 705 range switch errors since I installed it. If I simply put the transmission in drive. It won't drive. The green light for drive will not light up on the dash board. Drive 3 lights up and from there I move it to drive and it momentarily lights up and then I can drive the car in Drive. Of course, with the engine check light on.

Question: Does anyone here know what physical tweak to the range switch. There is a bar across it. Can that be adjusted or what.

If you read an earlier post I was getting 705 and 715 error codes. And since installing the range switch and input speed sensor I was getting a new code 1529. Pep boy refused to give the description of the code but I read in other posts about some codes residing in the etu. Or the cars computer

So I removed the positive and negative from my battery

And shortly after I went to Pep Boys to get a scan done

Gone I think is the input speed sensor and the 1529 in its place is a p711 now. Something about Trans fluid too hot. If I can believe this.

Are the sensors talking if they don't get a reply its engine check?

What type of scanner can scan codes and clear codes?

hi, i drive a 2006 Elantra with a stock horn - no modifications have been done with horn swaps or anything to it.
i also have a Cobra ESD 7400 radar detector that i bought recently.

I noticed that while beeping the car horn, the radar detector beeps, showing that it is reading a Laser gun.
I am sure that it is the horn, as i have tested it multiple times and was sure that it was not a real cop making my detector go off.

isnt this weird? i would not have expected my car horn to emit the frequency of a laser gun!

I have a Hyundai Accent 2002 with about 134,000 mi (mostly hwy miles) I've taken fairly good care of it.

About a month ago I got an engine light indicating a few different things including pulse generator malf. and O2 sensor malf. I got the O2 sensor replaced and the car ran very well until the transmission completely died on the hwy, I limped my car in second gear to the local shop and got a full transmission overhaul (I wasn't even able to go into reverse when it happened)

Now I have been driving on this rebuilt transmission it seems to be functioning well except for two things: My acceleration seems slow when going up inclines even mild ones (with the a/c off). Meaning I can get my pedal to the floor and I still only gradually increase speed in third gear and then finally will move into fourth and give me the acceleration I need. Meanwhile as I was beginning to notice this issue I also noticed that my speedometer needle was sluggish in that it will give an accurate read but will "take its time" getting to the accurate speed and seems shakey while doing it. Odd huh?

My main question is, are these two problems related? Is there any way that the car's speedometer is relaying information about my speed to the engine to instruct it how to behave? If not do you have any ideas as to what could be going on with my car?

A few other details:
• I took the car back to the mechanic for the 2 week check and had two mechanics test drive my car. They said they didn't notice anything seriously distressing about the accel. and they also said that they checked the pulse generators when they put the new tranny in.
• I have not received any engine light indicators whatsoever since getting the tranny fixed.
• I recently replaced my fuel filter and my air filter and had new spark plugs put in and timing belt is relatively new.
• The car seems to idle fine and I don't detect any suspect engine noises.

Does anyone have any ideas about what this could be? I just put the fuel filter in and haven't had a chance to give it a proper test drive to see if that was the culprit. Any help will be much appreciated.

I was curious if the Input Speed Sensor is covered under the powertrain warranty. I have a little under 80,000 miles. If not what is the cost for replacing (part + labor)?

Auto Zone read my code and determined I need a Vehicle speed sensor (duralast su6201).
I would like to install myself as it looks like it just plugs in somewhere. Can you help with where on the car I can find this part and possibly how to install. The vehicle is 2005 Hyundai Elantra. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

How do you replace the reverse light switch on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra manual transmition?

Hey Everyone,

Let me start off by thanking you for reading and potentially replying to this post.

So I've had to replace both rear rotors, pads, and calipers on my '06 Elantra (80K miles)...

Upon replacing them, the rotor isn't spinning with any ease -- it's more than just the typical friction.

Brake line seems great -- pads are set great... Calipers fit well...

What could the issue possibly be?

Thanks,
-E

hi all, I hope some of you might have some advise for me. There is an oily reisidue in the spark plugs of my 3003 Hyundai elantra 1.6 petrol car. I have had this car for several years with no problem. however I havent changed the oil for ages, It was almost bone dry when I checked it. right now I have given the car a full service and put in clean oil. However, when i went to change the spark plugs I noticed they were fairly oily. My question is will this have completly wrecked the car or is it rescueable. It has been driving fine remarkably. there was just a funny noirse from the engine that initially caused me to check the oil. Imagine my shock when I saw how empty it was. I have no excuse for doing such a thing, just kept putting it on the long finger. Any advise appreciated,.

recently, i did both speed sensors on my '01 elantra. the output done at dealer for 280 bucks, the input done in my garage for 65. it really is a shame. anyhow...now I'm driving along, when all of a sudden, the car bucks hard as if it's downshifting, but does not shift, the rpm's stay level, but my accelerator goes dead, and I got no power what so ever, but the car is still running. I pump the pedal, and it comes back for a while, then happens again. I limp my way to autozone and pull the code P0105. Their print out reads:

MAP (Man. Absolute Pressure) / BARO or MAF (Mass Air Flow) /VAF (Vane Air Flow) sensor

The car as 101K and the timing belt hasn't been done yet. Is this even a possiblity (I"m thinking this because of the symptom), or should I stick with what the code suggests? Please help. many thanks

My '02 GLS is coming up on 100K and needs suspension help. When I had tires installed this past spring, they noted that I needed to replace the outer tie rod ends. That was the only issue they noted and they didn't install them as they thought it would be a warranty covered thing. Assuming what they say to be true (and I assume it was otherwise they would have tried to sell me various other suspension bits, right?), it is a Minnesota car driven daily and all other suspension parts are original, what would be the best investment to improve the handling/ride of the car. It doesn't "bounce" when you do the corner push test, but hitting bumps gives more of a deadish thump and feel than I like. I would like to improve upon the body roll as well. I keep reading about these sway bar upgrades, but haven't really seen a start to finish "what you do" type thing. Is it adding new swaybars to the GLS? or just upgrading the existing GLS ones to GT (or Tiburon) ones? I've also heard about shock tower braces. Can anyone elaborate? Would I be just better off getting top notch replacement shocks/springs or just average replacements and add other (sway bar upgrades). I'm not looking to build a race car, but at 100 thousand , I'd like to improve the cars handling performance without breaking the bank.

Also, what's the diff between the cheapy OEM replacement Tie Rod Ends and the $30+ Moog ones?

I did have two 2002 Elantras and was extremely happy with both of them...Will soon be going to car auctions to look for a second hand Elantra for 19 yr old grandson....
Will be looking at the 2002/2004 range and trying to find a reasonably low mileage unit....Is there any surefire visual way of identifying if the car has had its timing belt replaced...as they have to be replaced at 60000 mi/96000kms...not much of an opportunity to do much with vehicles at an auction...really dont want to buy something to find that there is a $600 bill for timing belt because it wasnt done...not hopeful but thought I would ask

03 Elantra cruising on freeway when cloud of white smoke and panic. Pull over and see a trail of oil behind.
Towed it home and after removing front wheel and cranking it up with more oil in it, the thing gushes oil at the crankshaft.

Pulled the pulleys and timing gear, (just did this on and old Mazda), seal just resting on the crank unseated. Got part and put in new seal.
Filled with oil again started and ran and in a few seconds oil again gushed.

Took it apart and found the crank seal again pushed out of its seat.
Reseated and tried one last time and the same result.

It appears there is a buildup of oil pressure behind this seal and its forcing it out.
The engine runs fine and has not been run dry thanks to quick reaction by driver.

What could this be?
Oil pump is definitely pumping and I've removed the oil filler cap to relieve any crankcase pressure, but it happens so fast that it has to be from too much hydraulic oil pressure.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
rm

Just got back from a vacation that involved friends we haven't seen for 38 years !! Lost track of then after my wedding ( he was a groomsman), and recently found them on Face Book.

Drove from Ber Air, MD to Cape Elizabeth ( Portland), ME--lost 2 hours in NYC traffic.

From there, to Salem, MA, and then back home--avoided NYC--used Tappen Zee, but lost 2 + hours on the NJ Turnpile.

Overall mileage for 1675 miles was just a tad over 30 mpg. Mostly highway, but some miles in Boston traffic, and up Mt Washington. Not bad for 70,000 miles. Car is a reliable as any I have owned

i have a 2003 hyundai elantra auto here
1. it is in limp mode.
2. scan shows cam sensor
3. replaced cam sensor and reset computer still same issue.
4. engine light does not come on when ignition is on

ive got a oil leak by the rear most motor mount. has anyone else had a leak here and know what it is thats leaking so i can fix it. this things my DD so i cant run it leaking for long

I am going to be replacing both front axles on my Aunt's 2004 Elantra,(with automatic transaxle).Since the car is not here now,I need to know what size the hub nut is.I have read 31mm,32mm, or a 1 1/4 inch will fit. Which is it?I need to know which socket to buy. Thanks.

This has recently began occurring. It seems to get louder when I accelerate but completely goes away when I brake. Any ideas about what the culprit(s) could be?

Thanks,

Mclasser

05 Elantra GLS 56k miles

Hello, I hope someone can help me because I feel like my Hyundai dealer is trying to take advantage of me. Here is the deal: I took my 2002 Hyundai Elantra to the dealer to fix some recall items. The recall item in question is Recall V04. They replaced the manifold assy-exh (part 28510-23721). When I drove the car home from the dealer the check engine light came on. Took it back, and they said Po441 code came up (Purge valve has internal part failure). I find it very strange that I had no problems with the car until they fixed those recall items.

Can you tell me where in proximity the purge valve controller and the manifold/gasket-exhaust parts are on my 2002 Hyundai Elantra? Are they physically next to each other? Is it possible to inadvertently damage one while replacing the other? I see that they had to disconnect the oxygen sensor to fix Recall V04 - could that have been damaged and thus impact the purge valve? Now the check engine has come on again. I'm making another visit to them tonight.

The part numbers involved are as follows:

28910-22040 Valve-Purge Contr
28510-23721 Manifold Assy-Exh
28521-23005 Gasket-Exhaust MA
28764-28020 Gasket-Exhaust PI

Trying to find out if anyone has added aftermarket Cruise Control to 2005 Elantra. Where is the VSS located and the color of wire for signal?

hi everyone,

just tonight as i was going to drive home from a friends house, i went to put on my headlights.. it was dark out.
but i noticed they did not turn on, and then further testing, my high beams didnt turn on either.
the notification on the dash board didnt even light up about my high beams being turned on. the only lights that work are the running lights, which were very dim and didnt illuminate the road at all.

i havent done anything major to the car lately, except for one modification.
on the interior of the car, i installed 6 blue led lights for the passenger and driver side that shine on the floor, its very neat.
this is connected to a ground and to the cigarette lighter fuse in the fuse box.
when this problem arose tonight, i disconnected the connection to the fuse box, to make sure that this was not the culprit.

headlight fuses have been checked, and the fuse that the leds were connected to were checked as well. i put a meter on one of the wires that go to the headlight bulbs, and it was not getting any power, so it is not a bulb. battery was disconnected and reconnected as well.

any suggestions? my car is an 06 elantra, 16100 miles.

2002 Elantra auto. Shop said the speed output sensor needed replaced so I purchased the sensor (part no. 42621-39052) off ebay new. I removed air filter box and as indicated in another posting (I used several older posts to get info and visuals), located the sensor, removed single screw, pulled out sensor. This was all very easy but I admit it took about 25 minutes of poking and prodding pin to remove old sensor from the little gray wiring case (I actually cracked the bottom of it). Eventually I got the old one out, slid new one in with a click and screwed back onto transmission. I put air filter back on, saw corrosion on battery terminals so I wiped those off and now engine won't turn over.

Engine light is on, oil pressure warning light is on. Interior lights, radio comes on so I think battery is good. Prior to my attempted fix the car started and ran fine up until about 60mph when it would --cha-chunk-- and down shift and rpms would go up over 4K. Again, reputable shop gave a free tranny check and found the output sensor as the culprit.

Can some one help me understand what I might have missed? Would the car not start if the sensor is not properly replaced? Please help and keep in mind I am very new to auto work. Thanks in advance.

(oh and I unhooked both + and - battery terminals prior to exchanging the sensors)

Any ideas?

ive been browsing the forums a bit and you guys have already helped, but my problem has gone beyond the posts ive found, so it seemed time to register and post

i have a 2004 elantra gls that died on my girlfriend on the freeway two days ago. it would crank but it would not start, as it was getting no spark. computer threw a code saying the camshaft position sensor was bad. i do not know the exact code.

i have replaced the sensor, and now i get a spark, but the engine is still not starting. could my timing be off? is there a way to check it without removing half the engine, since that timing belt is a sob?

i cleared the computer and its not throwing me any more codes, however my scanner is telling me 3 of 7 readiness monitors are complete. the misfire, fuel system, and comp. components monitors are complete, but the catalyst, evap. system, o2 sensor, and o2 sensor heater are not. is this a symptom of something, or do these complete after the engine starts?

im kind of new to fixing my elantra. im used to working on a 94 chevy v8 tbi.

hi,

i've recently bought an elantra 2.0 cdx 2001 model on an X plate.

the cd player works fine, but i cant tune the radio in, it's like there isn't an aerial plugged in the back!!

i've took the cd player out to check there was an aerial plugged in, and it all looks ok.

any ideas anyone??

I'm about to buy a new replacement battery because my old one is dying out. Should I get a specific brand or type? There's the plastic looking ones and there's the metal top ones..

I love my 05 Elantra. I've put over 96,000 pain free miles on it. I haven't had any major trouble with the car. Just normal routine maintance. The only nagging problem that it seems to have is that it chews through headlights. It always has. I might get a year out of the bulbs if I'm lucky. Is this normal? Is there a fix? Thanks.

Brian

I have a 02 hyundai elantra and the wipers dont work, they turn on randomly and barely want to move.

I have changed the wiper motor and checked the main fuses, are there any other fuses i should be looking for?

what ells can be wrong with it that i might be missing to check?

I have a 2004 Sonata or snotty as I call her! She has 71K on the Odometer, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission.

Recently the engine fault light came on, OB2 reader said number two cylinder was misfiring, I noticed it was running rough.
Since the coil was over $100 I changned the plugs....didn't help for long:( I compared the two coils and they ohm ed out identical.
On line Chilton manuals don't help much. Anyone got any ideas??

Hey all,

Noob to the Elantra forums, but have been trolling the elantra forums for the last few hours.

My partners 2004 Elantra has been having some weird problems lately and i'm hoping someone might read this and be able to give me some suggestions on where to look?

Quick history:

The car has been off the road for the last 2 years, kept undercover and not driven (due to lost license) Car only has 49,000kms on it and has been serviced all the time (including just last week) - Before being reregistered the car was serviced and checked over with most fluids changed at the same time (engine oil, tranny oil, filters etc)

Problem:

The instrument cluster will "randomly" partially stop working. The actual speedo will some days work and some days just not work at all. All other gauges (tacho, fuel, temp etc) seem to work fine. However when the speedo decides not to work, the odometer doesn't change either

The second problem is to do with the windshield wipers, when you turn them on they will stop randomly some were over the window instead of returning back to the dash level.


Further info:

Over the last few days, we have worked out that if you are driving and the speedo is working, if you turn on the headlights the speedo will stop working each time.


Does any one out there have any suggestions as to where I can look? Or what I can check?


Thanks
Adam

Alright so I have a 2002 GLS and have had it for 3 years now. Has around 83000 on it. The other day the turn signals would not work, you would flip them and they would not go. Everything else worked though even the hazards. Then all of a sudden the clock, radio, automatic locks and dome lights won't work. The car runs fine and everything else is doing fine. All of that stuff stopped working. I have checked the fuses in the dash and all of the ones I think would be associated are ok. Also I checked the fuses under the hood and have no idea what those control or even how to see if one is bad. Can anyone help me?