2004 Elantra, bought used this year with no documentation (checking ebay now for owner & repair manuals). The last couple of days - intermittently the audible car alarm siren will go off in the middle of the night. I don't know if this is a factory or aftermarket alarm.
No other electrical or mechanical problems I'm aware of at this time.
1-Does anyone know if this would be a factory or aftermarket alarm system? Did 2004 Hyundai Elantra use the cars horn (as U.S. cars do) for the audible alarm if factory installed (this one has a siren)?
2-If this is a factory alarm, where can I get a schematic/wiring diagram for this?

Any help would be appreciated.

I recently followed the excellent how to for the input sensor replacement and not a day later the brake lights won't light. Can't find a specific fuse for them (???) but checked all fuses underhood, none blown. Do you really have to take the tail lamp off the car to change a bulb? I was trying to diagnose for my gf at night with no flashlight, so I had to stop. All that said, i find it highly unlikely that both rear lights burnt out at the same time (driving lights work fine, don't know if there are one or two bulbs in this car for driving + brakes)... so that leads me to think it's the switch on the brake pedal. I'm 6'5" so without taking a seat out it can be very difficult for me to get under the dash - that said, i located the switch but couldn't see how it comes out completely - although i didn't disconnect the battery and the switch sparked as soon as i touched it (oops). I'm hoping someone else here has replaced the switch and can offer some advice on the removal, it's very tough for me to see in that area (again without removing the driver's seat). So - any advice on changing this switch or how it's connected would be beneficial - or what the sort of white cable (i think, it was dark) coming out the middle is / how to disconnect. Sorry this is so vague, obviously i'm not a mechanic - just trying to save her some cash on a car that really is no longer worth putting money into.

Cheers for any assistance.

My son tried to climb a tree with my/his 04 Elantra a few weeks ago. One of the things damaged is it snapped the connector off the end of the oil control valve. The engine still starts, but I am concerned about driving it home from the frame shop. Some engines in the salvage yard have the opening plugged with no valve, but they were not the same year/model.

Is there a chance of engine damage by not replacing it?
Is there any place cheaper than a dealer for a replacement? $167

thanks

hello all,just ran out of fuel then put some in,and now it wont start after continuous cranking,any help would be appreciated

I have a 2006 Elantra GLS. The negative battery terminal has become rusted and corroded to the point where the car will not start and the bolt that tightens the terminal to the battery will not move. I have removed the terminal from the battery and tried the standard tricks for cleaning the terminal such as baking soda+water and WD40 to no avail.

I believe my next course of action is to replace the corroded terminal. So, my question is whether it is easier to cut the cable and replace the terminal or replace the entire cable. I am not sure where the other end of the cable terminates; it disappears into the guts of the car.

If anyone has experience with this problem and can offer advice, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks.

I have an 03 hyundai elantra gls automatic tranny and when i am stopped at a red light, there is a knock in my engine. I shift into neutral and it goes away. When the light turns green and i start moving again, the knock goes away. My hyundai dealer mechanic says it's just normal engine knocking, but it really concerns me cuz i remember when she used to purr like a kitten. Does anyone have any idea what may be causing this and how I can have it corrected?

Just wondering how much mileage your elantra has!

Mine is a 2002 Elantra VE and it has 214 XXX KM.

PS: don't forget to put km or miles!

I am installing a pioneer deh-p5100UB in a 06 elantra and this is my first install. I have a question on the wiring. For the most part with the harness I am matching color to color(ex. white to white, white with black stripe to white with black stripe), is this correct?

From the wire harness I have some left over wires.
I have the black one labeled chassis ground, am I supposed to hook this up to a peice of metal inside the dashboard, wrapping it around a screw or something?
I have a blue wire labeled power antenna, the antenna on my hyundai is on the rear glass it does not have a metal antenna that goes up and down so I do just leave that loose, am I supposed to tape it up with electrical tape if I do leave it loose or can I just leave it free?
Orange w/ black stripe labeled dimmer ground. Is this another wire I am supposed to connect to a metal peice inside the dashboard and can it go around the same screw as the black chassis ground wire?


Now for the other "harness??" that connects to the stereo side that I am crimping this other harness to. It has the following wires that didnt have a match
A long yellow wire that is slightly thicker and longer than the other wires. Pioneer says to connect to the constant v12 supply terminal. I am having trouble figuring out what this means. Where do I connect this to, from my research it sounds like something car battery related.
A blue and white striped wire with a tag on it that says system remote control. It says to connect to system control terminal of the power amp or auto-antenna relay control terminal. My elantra did not come with a steering wheel remote or anything and I just have stock speakers no amps etc. everything was factory in this car prior to this install.
Black(chassis ground) Connect to a clean paint-free metal location. This come with a clamp on the end that looks like I can slide it right under a screw inside the dash, also can I connect this to the same screw as the other black chassis ground and orange dimmer ground wire from the harness.

I've had my engine check light come on a few times now.. since it's been cold out it's been on steady.

It Idles rough
When I drive and then push in the clutch between 1000 and 2000rpm the engine will rev to 2500rpm and stay steay for a few seconds and then drop to 1500rpm and then idle at around 750rpm.
If I'm over 3000rpm and push in the clutch, the engine will stay steady at whatever rpm i'm at for a few seconds and then go down to 1500rpm then to 750rpm after another second or so..
If I haven't put it in gear and driven and just rev the engine it drops down quickly..

only happens when I drive for a bit (say 10-20 meters or so and further...)

Code is P0303 - Misfire #3, so far i've changed the plugs and wires

please help

I have read a few walkthroughs for replacing the clutch. I have gotten to the point of putting the transmission back on and the walkthroughs say it should slip right back into place. It is lined up and goes on some but doesn't just slide into place.

Is there something I am missing?

G'day all,

The exhaust manifold has cracked on my other half's '02 elantra. I figured rather than replacing it with another choked up OEM part, I would get a set of headers/extractors fitted.

The problem is, neither myself or my exhaust guy can figure out what extractors it may use.

The engine is the G4GBX 1.8L. My exhaust guy had a good question, is there another hyundai that used this motor with a different engine codes or possible was the head on the G4GBX used on another engine? Either of those possibilities would allow the headers to be modified to fit.

Any help is appreciated,

Cheers, Josh.

Anyone know what is the, so to speak, the sending unit or sensor that sends the signal to the ecm or tachometer. I guess to ask, what senses the rpm of the engine? Is it the crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor or transmission input sensor or something else.

The reason I ask, the tachometer tends to have a real low reading. approx. 200 rpm at idle and at 55mph it is about 1000 rpm. Car idles terible and I am thinking the sending sensor for the rpm of the engine may have something to do with the rough idle. Thanks.

I have an 02 elantra, and I noticed whenever I'm driving that the tachometer does not respond to the gas pedal. It starts to work right when I turn on the car but, then when I start to drive it, it stops working then jumps to 0, and then when I'm driving on the highway it jumps everywhere, theres no clean response. and it gets kind of annoying. I know that it runs off the pulses from the coil pack, but I'm not sure if it's something else. it's could either be the coil pack, or the tachometer it self is bad. PLEASE HELP!!!

Hey guys, first post. Searched and searched, can't find a write up on how to drop the engine so I can change the tranny. I've got the engine all un hooked, the subframe unbolted, but I still cant get it to move. I found 2 top bolts that i think is holding it to the rack and pinion still.

But is there a write up on how to change the tranny anywhere? I'm about ready to just pull the motor and tranny out the top instead of messing with the subframe anymore.


Thank you in advance!!

It has been happening for MONTHS.

First off Whenever i get up to 25-30mph the rpms wil be at 2000-2500 and when the spedmonitor hits 25-30 my car will jerk forward real quick. i cant explain it. it feels as if the car got hit by a huge gust of wind from the front and slows down for a second. then the rpms will jump up about 500 or so rpm for a quick second and go back to 1500 rpm and stay there even at 40mph

and then if im above 30mph and i just let the car coast without pushing the gas pedal as it comes below 30 the car will do the same thing. jerk real quick and feel as if it just slowed down real fast for a second. it is VERY onnying.

ALSO!!!! when it jerks forward and if im still on the pedal the car will make a weird sqealing sound intill i let off the pedal or push on it hard and make the engine rev hard the noise happens ONLY at 25-40mph. if i get to above 40 mph the car jerks again and the noise stops. sounds like a belt or something but my freind said nothing is wrong with any belts

I checked my ATF fluid and it is brown. i got it flushed and new fluid was put in. the car feels alittle but smoother now when driving but it still jerks around 25 mph and makes that sqealing sound.

my friend did my sparkplugs and 2 of them where blown. they had white stuff all over the tip. we replaced them but it does not seem to make the car run any better.

And is it normal for the car to feel sluggish like it lost horsepower with the heat or ac on?

In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles.
Has anyone else experienced problems like this. I do not ride the clutch

My check engine light is on and won't pass inspection until its off. The car runs fine. I am getting the P0501. Its a manual tranny. Any info/tips as to possible causes/solutions would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks!

Dear Friends,

I joined this forum in a state of utter helplessness and to get some advice and tips from owners of the same car. I believe my car has some transmission problems,especially in the winter. When its quite cold in the morning and I crank the engine and then shift the gear from Park to Reverse first thing, the car really shakes up and jolts as if hit by another car or something big. The check engine light then comes up immediately.

It also happened last winter and I checked with a mechanic who said it was a wiring problem and fixed it.

But this year the problem is quite serious. Last weekend when it got a little chilly here in Columbia,SC the car did the same shaking up when cranking the engine and shifting gears first thing in the morning. The check engine light came up and now it stays on all the time.

More so, as I discovered a couple of days later, I tried to go a little uphill out of my driveway and the car stopped although I pushed the gas pedal real hard and the engine was revving. I got it in Neutral gear and got it back in my parking lot. The car does seem to move on flat ground and in reverse but does not seem to climb uphill. I checked the engine codes with Advance Auto Parts and they read:

P0765: Shift Solenoid D malf.
P1529: manf. control vehicle 5speed idle speed control aux. inputs

Could someone explain these in layman's terms and offer some advice/tips on repairs and on the estimated cost if I have to fix it with a mechanic?

Thanks,
Supratim

Purchased using C4C program. Has no radio, just empty double slot. After some research I purchased Harness, Antenna adapter and trim kit. Read a great post here on how to remove Fascia.

How do I finish the job? First time on this site and it is great!

Thanks for any help.

Help!
We have an 01 Elantra (original owners)with 101k. Have had some issues since deer ran into front passenger fender last year - don't know if it's related.
On damp or wet rainy days the car will run REAL rough and check engine light comes on when you first start the car. The first time this happened was the day I picked it up from the auto body shop after being hit by deer. It was pouring that day. Took it out on road and it stopped after a short distance. The guys at the shop cleared the code (misfire in 2 & 3) and suggested I change the plugs and wires. We did that and all seemed fine for a while. We have had this problem now for about a year or so only on rainy or damp days. We had an extremely wet spring and summer this year so the problem has been worse. We again changed the plugs and wires a few weeks ago and are now seeing an arc between 2 & 3. The arc could have been there prior to this last plug/wire change, we just never noticed it. If you drive it a short distance all of a sudden it will run normal and not have the problem for the rest of the day. Seems like there is a moisture issue?? These are brand new plugs and wires, but not from the dealer. Could this be the coil? Would hate to spend the money on a new coil if it is not necessary. Any thoughts?

Marie

Hey guys! First real post here..

I had some trouble with my Hyundai 2001 Elantra GT recently. Just after my 60k mile bumper to bumper warranty was up I started getting a P0715 and P1529 troublecode. The real deal is the P0715 which is the Input Speed Sensor on the Transmission. I would clear the codes with a scan tool and they would come back usually within 30 minutes of driving. When the check engine light comes on the car locks itself into 2nd or 3rd gear.. mine always seemed to be 3rd gear. At first I thought it had to be a loose cable, but I just ended up replacing the sensor and everything seems great now.

I took a bunch of pictures for anyone else with this problem, it's really simple to fix if you have a couple tools (philips screwdriver, 10mm and 12mm sockets with extensions, 10mm wrench, dentist like pick, air compresser or can of compressed air, and a magnetic pickup tool is helpful).

I purchased the $50 vol. 1 service manual for my vehicle and it really doesn't help you much in the replacement, or even location, of the input speed sensor (to the transmission). It just has a quick one-page flow chart to diagnose the problem if you are seeing the P0715 code. Actually, if you are seeing this code, more likely than not the dang sensor is bad. These hall-effect magnetic pickup sensors seem to be a good source of income for dealers because they fail like crazy. There does seem to be a life to them though, but consistently after 60k they seem to either go bad, or hang on for a while longer. My dealer said they replace them constantly. Anyhoo, save yourself the $50 for the manual and just get the $66 sensor.

Here we go:





















Pictures continued in next post...

Hi everybody,

I just installed an aftermarket radio receiver. Most the lights work as before.

However here are my issue.
A. Dashboard not lighting up anymore
B. The climate control lights not working any more. (the AC buttons are working)
C. The gear/transmission lights are out.

I can't see what I missed? I reconnect all connections that are available.
On the left side top side, 3 connections.
On the right top side, 3 connections
On the right bottom, all the cigarette lighters

Maybe or maybe not related.

The right parking light (light below the revers light), is not working. Not a bulb issue, just does not work anymore.

Thank you for your help. This is driving my family crazy.
Radu43

Hello, i have been recently having some trouble startin my elantra 2003 (97000 km). when i try to start the engine, it tends to hesitate, requiring i hit the gas to get her to start. the funny thing is this really only happens when it is damp, cold or raining, especially overnight. When u try to start the car up in the morning after these conditions is when i have the most trouble. I have changed my sparkplugs and my wires and the problem is still there, any ideas????? BTW once u get the car started, i have no other issues, such as stalling etc, car runs normal. Appreciate any input, thx all

Hey guys,

I just put my 2001 Elantra VE on the road, but I have noticed that on my Elantra and several others that the parking lights are always on apposed to just the DRL's. Also, the drives side brake light works when it wants to. Sometimes if you bang on the taillight it will work. Is there a fix for this or has anyone else experianced this?

Thanks,

Josh

My '05 Elantra has been to the dealer 4 times to repair a check engine late that shows a fault code of 172 (system too rich bank 1). They have never found the problem but have done a tuneup and replaced the MAF sensor. They clear the code and it works for a couple hundred miles then comes back on. Meanwhile the warranty has expired and they want me to pay for any more work. What do I do? It seems llke they are just guessing what is wrong and trying things>

My Radio turns on at random times eg during the night when the the key is nowhere near the ignition and the car is locked. Any theories on what might be causing this? Now I turn the radio off before turning the ignition off and it stays off to avoid the embarrassment!

my gf has a 05 elantra and the check engine light just recently came on. i want to find out how to check the codes without going to autozone(or anyone else) to find out. is there any way to check the codes?

example on a 01 jeep grand cherokee you can check the codes by turing the key on and off 3 times in a row and after that it will show a code on the odometer.

The other day I did something stupid when I changed the driver's side head light. when I went to put the battery back in I connected the terminals backwards.
(yes I know stupid I've been kicking myself all weekend)

The car starts fine and I don't have a check engine light. but now my after market stereo wont turn on, I hope that is just an inline fuse issue but my hopes for that are low I think it's dead.

my main concern is I just had it tested for emissions and it gets a not ready error. They gave me some instructions on how to reset it by driving in certain patterns (idle for 2 mins, acclerate to this speed, crusie at this speed ..... ect)

What are the chances I killed my ECU or some other important but over priced electronics?

and if so how hard is it to replace an ecu. I've heard it's not really that hard.

I have tired every wire combination known to man and replaced several fuses if anyone could tell me how to pair the wires correctly or just tell me how to get it to work that would be great!

Sorry!

My English not good, I have a question for DTC code P1529.
My 01 Elantra Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor (RF-WSS)(PN:95670-2D100) is broken.
Is this part same Front Right ABS Wheel Speed Sensor(PN:95670 2D150)
Can I use Front Right ABS Wheel Speed Sensor?

Hey all,

I've been having issues with my input speed sensor and have been putting off the repair for sometime now.

The plastic piece on the top of my rad cracked this past weekend, I ordered the rad on Thursday and it arrived on Friday.
[highly recommending cooldirect.ca]
Changed the rad on Saturday but I am still having issues.

I think there maybe a leak somewhere else. (coolant still seems to be dripping from somewhere)

Just wondering if it would make sense to assume ...

Bad Input Speed Sensor + heavy highway driving (RPM @ 3-5k) = over heating (busted cooling system)

I've ordered the input speed sensor from ebay. (input & output speed sensor assy for < $110, including shipping to ON, Canada)
[http://stores.shop.ebay.ca/FourGreenAuto__W0QQ_armrsZ1]

Also, I picked up a thermostat from Parts Source for about $16 and thinking about checking the resevoir and hoses for leaks.
Other than that, I don't really have any other approaches to this issue.

If you've had to deal with something like this or have any thoughts they would be greatly appreciated,

Thanks in advance,

HELP....I'm a new member, with a 2003 Hyundai Elantra. My mechanic (NON-Hyundai!) has diagnosed that it needs a replacement flex pipe. His distributor indicates there are no aftermarkets on this item and the part is over $300 from Hyundai. I don't have $300 = plus the cost of mechanic. Anyone aware of any other outlets for this? I'm a single woman working two jobs. Can't deal with this......:-)

I have a 2002 Elantra GLS MTX 2.0 with around 85k miles on it. The car's been reliable overall with just one minor repair, a recall on the brake lines. It's had regular maintenance, and the timing belt was replaced about 20k miles ago. About three weeks ago I got CEL P0441 (EVAP Emission Control System Purge Flow Fault). Knowing that this can be caused by the gas cap being loose, and wanting to try the easy things first, I removed/tightened the cap and reset the code. The car was good for a couple days and then threw another CEL. When I rechecked them we got the P0441 again, as well as P0340 (Camshaft position sensor A - Bank 1 circuit malfunction). Aside from the codes the car works fine.

We went ahead and had it diagnosed by the dealer with them wanting to:
-replace the camshaft sensor
-replace the crankshaft sensor
-replace the Purge Control Valve

All this to the tune of $200 in parts and $300 in labor. I checked and I could get the parts online for about $157 but not knowing where the parts are and what's involved in their replacement I'm not sure if they're repairs I can do myself. I wouldn't say I'm a mechanic, but I've done starter/alternator replacements, brakes, tune ups, fluid changes, etc. so as long as it doesn't involve lots of specialised tools or drastic disassembly of the engine I should be okay. The only thing I really found on the forum about this were on 2.0 Sonatas where replacing the crankshaft sensor apparently requires removing belts and a pully.... that's a little beyond me. I searched around (both on the forum, and the internet in general) and found several other people with the same problem on their Elantras. Many of them said they replaced the cam/crankshaft sensors but still had the CEL.

So, can anyone help me out with:
-Where the components are located?
-How involved is the replacement of them?
-Is it necessary to replace all of them at once or trouble shoot?

To cap it all off this happened right as our car's inspection and re-registration is coming due..... literally in less than two weeks. The car can't pass inspection with a CEL on (or within 100 miles of having one on), and the registration can't be renewed unless it's inspected. Basically I'm in a bit of a time crunch so any help anyone can give would be welcome.

Car - 2001 Elantra, 5-speed manual, 63700 miles.

I bought this car with a P0422 (Main Catalytic converter below efficiency threshold). My state doesn't have emission laws. The upstream O2 sensor was fluctuating always, and the downstream frequently (about once 3 or 4 seconds) dipped below 100 mV. This seemed like the cat was genuinely screwed. I found the same car in the junkyard and replaced the cat, and the o2 sensors from the other car. The error code did not reappear.

This lasted for about a month. The downstream O2 sensor was also steady at 700 mV after warming up. Yesterday, MIL latched on again, and it was P0422 again. This time I made the following observations with the downstream O2 sensor -

1. During idle, it maintains around 700 mV and occasionally dips (about once in 10 secs).

2. If I VERY slowly increase throttle, it is happy and maintains 700 mV.

3. But if I push a little faster (practical for a real driving situation), it dips and recovers.

So I suspect that the problem is elsewhere, somewhere above the cat, in the fuel ratio. I don't know where to start, or if my suspicion is right.

There's always the question that the replaced cat was inherently bad, it coming from the junkyard. But that probability is less I guess, and given the fact that it was working well for a month. I drove a lot of city and highway during the month, so if it was bad in the first place, ECU would have caught it sooner.

Another observation that might help - sometimes (so random that I cannot qualify further) when I press the clutch (with 0 throttle), the engine rpm shoots up to 3000, lingers around there for a few seconds, and then comes down to normal idle.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Howdy,

I have a manual 2002 Elantra GT. I recently had diagnosed (AutoZone read the codes) misfires in cylinder 2. I fixed that by starting with the plugs, then wires, but ultimately a new coil was the solution. I also (still) have high RPMs at idle and when I push in the clutch. The RPMs will vary from 1.5 to 3K after it is at operating temp. Looking around the forum I've read about similar problems and suggestions to replace the TPS.
The check engine light is not on so I'm reluctant to take it in to the dealer without giving them something to go on. I can replace the TPS but shouldn't there be a code or some indication that it is bad if the idle speeds are all over the place?
Thanks!

Hi
I need some advice here. I have had this car since new with no real problems until now. I see that some have had similar problem.

There seems to be an electrical issue it has begun blowing the low beam head lights about 1 a month and about once a week it just refuses to start. It’s like there is an issue with the immobiliser the battery is good you have power to dash and music but just dead when you turn the ignition just a ticking sound. You can’t even move the car because it is locked in park. After 20- 30 mins it just starts like there was on problem. Have had the mechanics look at it several times they just can’t find the problem. They just say it’s very strange. I have already paid out $800 for them to try and find issue, now I am at my wits end.

Thanks

Vamparee

Hi All,

I have a 2001 Elantra.

The light inside the gearshift turns on when it wants to when I turn on my headlamps. All the other interior lights and dash work fine. For weeks the gearshift light will stay off and then randomly it'll turn on. Any ideas?

03' Hyundai Elantra GT all stock.

Turned the key the other day and it turned over slightly before sputtering and dying. Happened a few more times after that.

Tried to jump it, no dice.

Now when I turn the key, all I hear is a rapid clicking noise and with every click the dash idiot lights blink on and off in rhythm with the clicking.

Electrical system seems to be working fine... lights, stereo, etc.

Is this the starter? How much can I expect to pay for this (tight budget- job issues)

Thanks for the help!

Hey, posting for a friend....

Having an issue that none of the turn signals work. Hazards work fine though. No fast blinking, fuses good. Issue starting after hitting a sizable pot hole on rear passenger side. Since then, flick the lever, it clicks, but nothing at all activates. Anyone with any ideas? didn't really turn up anything when searching (other then people having problems w/ their signal lights after installing aftermarket HU's)

First of all my radiator has a leak and it shot allover ,but we also changed spark pugs now car engine wont turn over

My 2001 Elantra overheated again and I had to have it brought back to the dealer for the second time and I have had to have it brought back by Triple A to the dealership. Another
weekend has been ruined. I just think your service manager should stay on top of the
situation. Obviously, they missed the problem or put in the wrong thermostat which
is what it sounds like. It was just a case of not thoroughly figuring out what the problem
was, and assuming it had been corrected. Neither of us win in a situation like that.

My Hydaudi 2001 elantra overheated again, exactly one week and 587.50 cents which it
cost me to have them replace all the radiator hoses, a new thermostat and a heat sensor.
I decided to head down to Virginia this morning for a drive. Instead when I got down to Virginia, the Temperature gauge shot up to H (Hot) and
wavered around there for a while, then it shot down back to normal then shot back up again
to H again. I had to drive the car back all the way to Marlow Heights to Pohanka Hyundaui
in Marlow Heights, Maryland. On the way back on Route 4 just outside Washington D.C.
the car broke down right in the middle of traffic. It was overheating. I let it sit for about 15 minutes
then a State Trooper stopped and asked me what was going on. I said the car died in the middle
of traffic. He said try starting it again which ironically it did. It started up, and I drove it to an Exxon
Station in District Heights, Maryland. Called Triple A who took the car back over to Pohanka
Hyndaui. They left me at the Suitland Train station where I got another cab back to Upper Marlboro.
Not sure what is going on with the car. I don't feel Pohanka Hyudai did there job and did not
address the problem with my coolant and cooling system. I noticed this week I had no heat
after they said it was fixed. Obviously it was not fixed. It was definitely overheating with hot steam
or smoke coming out of the engine, but once the car was stopped and rested a while the car
would start up again, but I was not going to take anymore chances.

It would seem the theromstat is not working correctly, but I definitely don't feel they did there
job in fixing the problem. The check engine light now comes on, but it does run. I feel like the
car is not cooling correctly. Maybe they put in the wrong thermostat or the radiator is clogged.
Obviously they did not catch the problem. This is the second weekend in a row I have had a problem
with the coolant/heating system. This week after they said it was fixed the heater seemed to be
blowing cold air. Even though it overheated the car would start up again and run at least a few
minutes but I did not want to take any chances and had Triple A tow the car back to the dealership.
Now however, the check engine light has come on as well. Hot steam is coming out from under the
hood. Decided to get it back to the dealer and let them correct the problem.

At least I am in a safe dry place is about the only good thing I can say about this weekend. However, does anyone have any ideas as to what may be going on.

Any advice would be very helpful

hi again, the clicking sound was already solved. thanks to you all.

Now I got another question. When I drive at night I noticed that my left low beam light is somewhat uneven. I mean, some parts of the road in front of me is not lighted unlike the one on the right side. As if it's like a pie chart.

like this:

(forgive me for the image, that's the best I can get from the web. but it really is like that. just don't mind the captions.)

I tried searching in hmaservice.com on how to change the headlights and found it. But what confuses me more is that the light bulb that is weak (visual check - left) is the small one which is described in hmaservice as the position bulb. I tried searching online on where to buy it but with no luck. Search results would come up with hi/low beam bulb which is H7. I already bought a pair but I still need to get that small position bulb. Who knows what is the part number of that tiny bulb?

Second problem. The third hole (towards the middle) on the headlight assembly is for the hi beam bulb, right? How come mine has no wires going towards that hole? Do you guys have theirs? I checked the wires going to the middle hole expecting that there would be another group going to the third hole but found nothing. huh!

Third, my car didn't have fog lamps. If I'm going to put one, do you have any installation guides? hmaservice has none.


Hope you can help me again. Thanks in advance.

Having problems with the central locking, all door mechanisim are sounding like they want to open but are not, and also central does not respond and lock all the time once alarm is pressed on. I was told by a few installers that it could be the passenger door actuator. how do I fix?? if it is t he actuator, how do I get the actuator out??? I have taken apart the door skin and could not remove it.

I have a 2002 Elantra and my wipers are really slow after changing my battery. Even on its highest setting, my wipers are slow(er). I lifted the wipers up and "slammed them" down, and it seemed to work a bit better.

Any idea what's going on - about 160k on my trusted Elantra...

Thanks in advance!

I got a result of incomplete monitor on fuel and catalyst in the indiana emission testing of my 2003 hyundai elantra. Auto repair already replaced catalytic converter but it is still rejecting the emission test but not fail. Could somebody help me out to pinpoint the problem. Somebody said that I just drive the vehicle, but still the emission test result is the same.

I drive a 2001 Hyundai Elantra with about 60,000km on it and I have a couple of issues I am hoping for help with

1) Often when I turn the ignition, the RPM revs up over 2000, holds it for about 3-5 seconds, and then drops down to about 1000. When I put the car in gear, it drops again, below 1000 - anyone else have this? Is it something to worry about? It doesn't happen everytime, and it doesn't matter if it is hot/cold, wet/dry outside.

2) I am experiencing some hesitation when I push the gas pedal...once the car is started, I shift into Drive and when I push the gas, there is nothing for a few seconds, and then its like it jumps forward a bit and then everthing is fine...plus (and I don't know if this is related) I am getting really bad chugging and vibrations when idling at traffic lights, almost like it's about to stall. Otherwise, when driving in town or on highways, it runs great - no shaking, no chugging.

3) last year, I had a check engine light issue for a Right Wheel Speed Sensor - a mechanic friend told me it was no big deal, so I've been driving around with the Check Engine light going off and on every week or so and now I am wondering if this is adding to my other issues.

Looking forward to advice/reccomendations
Thanks!

My wife has a 2006 Elantra,complaining about low brake pedal.It only has 32,000 miles on it.I pulled the rear drums off and the brakes are fine.But I see no way to get them adjusted.I adjusted them up as far as I could where I coud still get the drum on but there has to be a better way to do this.There is no slot in the drum or rear to adjust the star wheel.Help!!!!

I have a 2002 elantra gt. It leaks fluid like crazy. seems to be from underneath near or from the rack. Can the rack be resealed? At what cost. I live near Orlando and would also like the name of a reputible mechanic.
Thanks in advance for your responses.
Wayne

2002 Elantra GLS automatic.. sometimes when i drive, it feels like the car isn't getting enough power from the engine or something? and the car stalled before when i was just braking on a red? i have no idea whats going on

while driving at 60 km's the other day rpm's suddenly dropped for a couple seconds then spiked back to normal. Check Engine light came on and has stayed there.

Problem has continued at random timing at different speeds. I thought I heard something like a backfire when the rpm's spike back up.

What could this be ?

Sorry unable to get any codes or to dealership - Thanks giving weekend here in Canada.