Hey guys,

I just put my 2001 Elantra VE on the road, but I have noticed that on my Elantra and several others that the parking lights are always on apposed to just the DRL's. Also, the drives side brake light works when it wants to. Sometimes if you bang on the taillight it will work. Is there a fix for this or has anyone else experianced this?

Thanks,

Josh

Just wondering how much mileage your elantra has!

Mine is a 2002 Elantra VE and it has 214 XXX KM.

PS: don't forget to put km or miles!

My '05 Elantra has been to the dealer 4 times to repair a check engine late that shows a fault code of 172 (system too rich bank 1). They have never found the problem but have done a tuneup and replaced the MAF sensor. They clear the code and it works for a couple hundred miles then comes back on. Meanwhile the warranty has expired and they want me to pay for any more work. What do I do? It seems llke they are just guessing what is wrong and trying things>

Help!
We have an 01 Elantra (original owners)with 101k. Have had some issues since deer ran into front passenger fender last year - don't know if it's related.
On damp or wet rainy days the car will run REAL rough and check engine light comes on when you first start the car. The first time this happened was the day I picked it up from the auto body shop after being hit by deer. It was pouring that day. Took it out on road and it stopped after a short distance. The guys at the shop cleared the code (misfire in 2 & 3) and suggested I change the plugs and wires. We did that and all seemed fine for a while. We have had this problem now for about a year or so only on rainy or damp days. We had an extremely wet spring and summer this year so the problem has been worse. We again changed the plugs and wires a few weeks ago and are now seeing an arc between 2 & 3. The arc could have been there prior to this last plug/wire change, we just never noticed it. If you drive it a short distance all of a sudden it will run normal and not have the problem for the rest of the day. Seems like there is a moisture issue?? These are brand new plugs and wires, but not from the dealer. Could this be the coil? Would hate to spend the money on a new coil if it is not necessary. Any thoughts?

Marie

My Radio turns on at random times eg during the night when the the key is nowhere near the ignition and the car is locked. Any theories on what might be causing this? Now I turn the radio off before turning the ignition off and it stays off to avoid the embarrassment!

Hello, i have been recently having some trouble startin my elantra 2003 (97000 km). when i try to start the engine, it tends to hesitate, requiring i hit the gas to get her to start. the funny thing is this really only happens when it is damp, cold or raining, especially overnight. When u try to start the car up in the morning after these conditions is when i have the most trouble. I have changed my sparkplugs and my wires and the problem is still there, any ideas????? BTW once u get the car started, i have no other issues, such as stalling etc, car runs normal. Appreciate any input, thx all

my gf has a 05 elantra and the check engine light just recently came on. i want to find out how to check the codes without going to autozone(or anyone else) to find out. is there any way to check the codes?

example on a 01 jeep grand cherokee you can check the codes by turing the key on and off 3 times in a row and after that it will show a code on the odometer.

The other day I did something stupid when I changed the driver's side head light. when I went to put the battery back in I connected the terminals backwards.
(yes I know stupid I've been kicking myself all weekend)

The car starts fine and I don't have a check engine light. but now my after market stereo wont turn on, I hope that is just an inline fuse issue but my hopes for that are low I think it's dead.

my main concern is I just had it tested for emissions and it gets a not ready error. They gave me some instructions on how to reset it by driving in certain patterns (idle for 2 mins, acclerate to this speed, crusie at this speed ..... ect)

What are the chances I killed my ECU or some other important but over priced electronics?

and if so how hard is it to replace an ecu. I've heard it's not really that hard.

I have tired every wire combination known to man and replaced several fuses if anyone could tell me how to pair the wires correctly or just tell me how to get it to work that would be great!

Sorry!

My English not good, I have a question for DTC code P1529.
My 01 Elantra Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor (RF-WSS)(PN:95670-2D100) is broken.
Is this part same Front Right ABS Wheel Speed Sensor(PN:95670 2D150)
Can I use Front Right ABS Wheel Speed Sensor?

Hey guys! First real post here..

I had some trouble with my Hyundai 2001 Elantra GT recently. Just after my 60k mile bumper to bumper warranty was up I started getting a P0715 and P1529 troublecode. The real deal is the P0715 which is the Input Speed Sensor on the Transmission. I would clear the codes with a scan tool and they would come back usually within 30 minutes of driving. When the check engine light comes on the car locks itself into 2nd or 3rd gear.. mine always seemed to be 3rd gear. At first I thought it had to be a loose cable, but I just ended up replacing the sensor and everything seems great now.

I took a bunch of pictures for anyone else with this problem, it's really simple to fix if you have a couple tools (philips screwdriver, 10mm and 12mm sockets with extensions, 10mm wrench, dentist like pick, air compresser or can of compressed air, and a magnetic pickup tool is helpful).

I purchased the $50 vol. 1 service manual for my vehicle and it really doesn't help you much in the replacement, or even location, of the input speed sensor (to the transmission). It just has a quick one-page flow chart to diagnose the problem if you are seeing the P0715 code. Actually, if you are seeing this code, more likely than not the dang sensor is bad. These hall-effect magnetic pickup sensors seem to be a good source of income for dealers because they fail like crazy. There does seem to be a life to them though, but consistently after 60k they seem to either go bad, or hang on for a while longer. My dealer said they replace them constantly. Anyhoo, save yourself the $50 for the manual and just get the $66 sensor.

Here we go:





















Pictures continued in next post...

Hey all,

I've been having issues with my input speed sensor and have been putting off the repair for sometime now.

The plastic piece on the top of my rad cracked this past weekend, I ordered the rad on Thursday and it arrived on Friday.
[highly recommending cooldirect.ca]
Changed the rad on Saturday but I am still having issues.

I think there maybe a leak somewhere else. (coolant still seems to be dripping from somewhere)

Just wondering if it would make sense to assume ...

Bad Input Speed Sensor + heavy highway driving (RPM @ 3-5k) = over heating (busted cooling system)

I've ordered the input speed sensor from ebay. (input & output speed sensor assy for < $110, including shipping to ON, Canada)
[http://stores.shop.ebay.ca/FourGreenAuto__W0QQ_armrsZ1]

Also, I picked up a thermostat from Parts Source for about $16 and thinking about checking the resevoir and hoses for leaks.
Other than that, I don't really have any other approaches to this issue.

If you've had to deal with something like this or have any thoughts they would be greatly appreciated,

Thanks in advance,

HELP....I'm a new member, with a 2003 Hyundai Elantra. My mechanic (NON-Hyundai!) has diagnosed that it needs a replacement flex pipe. His distributor indicates there are no aftermarkets on this item and the part is over $300 from Hyundai. I don't have $300 = plus the cost of mechanic. Anyone aware of any other outlets for this? I'm a single woman working two jobs. Can't deal with this......:-)

I have a 2002 Elantra GLS MTX 2.0 with around 85k miles on it. The car's been reliable overall with just one minor repair, a recall on the brake lines. It's had regular maintenance, and the timing belt was replaced about 20k miles ago. About three weeks ago I got CEL P0441 (EVAP Emission Control System Purge Flow Fault). Knowing that this can be caused by the gas cap being loose, and wanting to try the easy things first, I removed/tightened the cap and reset the code. The car was good for a couple days and then threw another CEL. When I rechecked them we got the P0441 again, as well as P0340 (Camshaft position sensor A - Bank 1 circuit malfunction). Aside from the codes the car works fine.

We went ahead and had it diagnosed by the dealer with them wanting to:
-replace the camshaft sensor
-replace the crankshaft sensor
-replace the Purge Control Valve

All this to the tune of $200 in parts and $300 in labor. I checked and I could get the parts online for about $157 but not knowing where the parts are and what's involved in their replacement I'm not sure if they're repairs I can do myself. I wouldn't say I'm a mechanic, but I've done starter/alternator replacements, brakes, tune ups, fluid changes, etc. so as long as it doesn't involve lots of specialised tools or drastic disassembly of the engine I should be okay. The only thing I really found on the forum about this were on 2.0 Sonatas where replacing the crankshaft sensor apparently requires removing belts and a pully.... that's a little beyond me. I searched around (both on the forum, and the internet in general) and found several other people with the same problem on their Elantras. Many of them said they replaced the cam/crankshaft sensors but still had the CEL.

So, can anyone help me out with:
-Where the components are located?
-How involved is the replacement of them?
-Is it necessary to replace all of them at once or trouble shoot?

To cap it all off this happened right as our car's inspection and re-registration is coming due..... literally in less than two weeks. The car can't pass inspection with a CEL on (or within 100 miles of having one on), and the registration can't be renewed unless it's inspected. Basically I'm in a bit of a time crunch so any help anyone can give would be welcome.

Car - 2001 Elantra, 5-speed manual, 63700 miles.

I bought this car with a P0422 (Main Catalytic converter below efficiency threshold). My state doesn't have emission laws. The upstream O2 sensor was fluctuating always, and the downstream frequently (about once 3 or 4 seconds) dipped below 100 mV. This seemed like the cat was genuinely screwed. I found the same car in the junkyard and replaced the cat, and the o2 sensors from the other car. The error code did not reappear.

This lasted for about a month. The downstream O2 sensor was also steady at 700 mV after warming up. Yesterday, MIL latched on again, and it was P0422 again. This time I made the following observations with the downstream O2 sensor -

1. During idle, it maintains around 700 mV and occasionally dips (about once in 10 secs).

2. If I VERY slowly increase throttle, it is happy and maintains 700 mV.

3. But if I push a little faster (practical for a real driving situation), it dips and recovers.

So I suspect that the problem is elsewhere, somewhere above the cat, in the fuel ratio. I don't know where to start, or if my suspicion is right.

There's always the question that the replaced cat was inherently bad, it coming from the junkyard. But that probability is less I guess, and given the fact that it was working well for a month. I drove a lot of city and highway during the month, so if it was bad in the first place, ECU would have caught it sooner.

Another observation that might help - sometimes (so random that I cannot qualify further) when I press the clutch (with 0 throttle), the engine rpm shoots up to 3000, lingers around there for a few seconds, and then comes down to normal idle.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Howdy,

I have a manual 2002 Elantra GT. I recently had diagnosed (AutoZone read the codes) misfires in cylinder 2. I fixed that by starting with the plugs, then wires, but ultimately a new coil was the solution. I also (still) have high RPMs at idle and when I push in the clutch. The RPMs will vary from 1.5 to 3K after it is at operating temp. Looking around the forum I've read about similar problems and suggestions to replace the TPS.
The check engine light is not on so I'm reluctant to take it in to the dealer without giving them something to go on. I can replace the TPS but shouldn't there be a code or some indication that it is bad if the idle speeds are all over the place?
Thanks!

Hi
I need some advice here. I have had this car since new with no real problems until now. I see that some have had similar problem.

There seems to be an electrical issue it has begun blowing the low beam head lights about 1 a month and about once a week it just refuses to start. It’s like there is an issue with the immobiliser the battery is good you have power to dash and music but just dead when you turn the ignition just a ticking sound. You can’t even move the car because it is locked in park. After 20- 30 mins it just starts like there was on problem. Have had the mechanics look at it several times they just can’t find the problem. They just say it’s very strange. I have already paid out $800 for them to try and find issue, now I am at my wits end.

Thanks

Vamparee

Hi All,

I have a 2001 Elantra.

The light inside the gearshift turns on when it wants to when I turn on my headlamps. All the other interior lights and dash work fine. For weeks the gearshift light will stay off and then randomly it'll turn on. Any ideas?

03' Hyundai Elantra GT all stock.

Turned the key the other day and it turned over slightly before sputtering and dying. Happened a few more times after that.

Tried to jump it, no dice.

Now when I turn the key, all I hear is a rapid clicking noise and with every click the dash idiot lights blink on and off in rhythm with the clicking.

Electrical system seems to be working fine... lights, stereo, etc.

Is this the starter? How much can I expect to pay for this (tight budget- job issues)

Thanks for the help!

Hey, posting for a friend....

Having an issue that none of the turn signals work. Hazards work fine though. No fast blinking, fuses good. Issue starting after hitting a sizable pot hole on rear passenger side. Since then, flick the lever, it clicks, but nothing at all activates. Anyone with any ideas? didn't really turn up anything when searching (other then people having problems w/ their signal lights after installing aftermarket HU's)

First of all my radiator has a leak and it shot allover ,but we also changed spark pugs now car engine wont turn over

My 2001 Elantra overheated again and I had to have it brought back to the dealer for the second time and I have had to have it brought back by Triple A to the dealership. Another
weekend has been ruined. I just think your service manager should stay on top of the
situation. Obviously, they missed the problem or put in the wrong thermostat which
is what it sounds like. It was just a case of not thoroughly figuring out what the problem
was, and assuming it had been corrected. Neither of us win in a situation like that.

My Hydaudi 2001 elantra overheated again, exactly one week and 587.50 cents which it
cost me to have them replace all the radiator hoses, a new thermostat and a heat sensor.
I decided to head down to Virginia this morning for a drive. Instead when I got down to Virginia, the Temperature gauge shot up to H (Hot) and
wavered around there for a while, then it shot down back to normal then shot back up again
to H again. I had to drive the car back all the way to Marlow Heights to Pohanka Hyundaui
in Marlow Heights, Maryland. On the way back on Route 4 just outside Washington D.C.
the car broke down right in the middle of traffic. It was overheating. I let it sit for about 15 minutes
then a State Trooper stopped and asked me what was going on. I said the car died in the middle
of traffic. He said try starting it again which ironically it did. It started up, and I drove it to an Exxon
Station in District Heights, Maryland. Called Triple A who took the car back over to Pohanka
Hyndaui. They left me at the Suitland Train station where I got another cab back to Upper Marlboro.
Not sure what is going on with the car. I don't feel Pohanka Hyudai did there job and did not
address the problem with my coolant and cooling system. I noticed this week I had no heat
after they said it was fixed. Obviously it was not fixed. It was definitely overheating with hot steam
or smoke coming out of the engine, but once the car was stopped and rested a while the car
would start up again, but I was not going to take anymore chances.

It would seem the theromstat is not working correctly, but I definitely don't feel they did there
job in fixing the problem. The check engine light now comes on, but it does run. I feel like the
car is not cooling correctly. Maybe they put in the wrong thermostat or the radiator is clogged.
Obviously they did not catch the problem. This is the second weekend in a row I have had a problem
with the coolant/heating system. This week after they said it was fixed the heater seemed to be
blowing cold air. Even though it overheated the car would start up again and run at least a few
minutes but I did not want to take any chances and had Triple A tow the car back to the dealership.
Now however, the check engine light has come on as well. Hot steam is coming out from under the
hood. Decided to get it back to the dealer and let them correct the problem.

At least I am in a safe dry place is about the only good thing I can say about this weekend. However, does anyone have any ideas as to what may be going on.

Any advice would be very helpful

hi again, the clicking sound was already solved. thanks to you all.

Now I got another question. When I drive at night I noticed that my left low beam light is somewhat uneven. I mean, some parts of the road in front of me is not lighted unlike the one on the right side. As if it's like a pie chart.

like this:

(forgive me for the image, that's the best I can get from the web. but it really is like that. just don't mind the captions.)

I tried searching in hmaservice.com on how to change the headlights and found it. But what confuses me more is that the light bulb that is weak (visual check - left) is the small one which is described in hmaservice as the position bulb. I tried searching online on where to buy it but with no luck. Search results would come up with hi/low beam bulb which is H7. I already bought a pair but I still need to get that small position bulb. Who knows what is the part number of that tiny bulb?

Second problem. The third hole (towards the middle) on the headlight assembly is for the hi beam bulb, right? How come mine has no wires going towards that hole? Do you guys have theirs? I checked the wires going to the middle hole expecting that there would be another group going to the third hole but found nothing. huh!

Third, my car didn't have fog lamps. If I'm going to put one, do you have any installation guides? hmaservice has none.


Hope you can help me again. Thanks in advance.

Having problems with the central locking, all door mechanisim are sounding like they want to open but are not, and also central does not respond and lock all the time once alarm is pressed on. I was told by a few installers that it could be the passenger door actuator. how do I fix?? if it is t he actuator, how do I get the actuator out??? I have taken apart the door skin and could not remove it.

I have a 2002 Elantra and my wipers are really slow after changing my battery. Even on its highest setting, my wipers are slow(er). I lifted the wipers up and "slammed them" down, and it seemed to work a bit better.

Any idea what's going on - about 160k on my trusted Elantra...

Thanks in advance!

I got a result of incomplete monitor on fuel and catalyst in the indiana emission testing of my 2003 hyundai elantra. Auto repair already replaced catalytic converter but it is still rejecting the emission test but not fail. Could somebody help me out to pinpoint the problem. Somebody said that I just drive the vehicle, but still the emission test result is the same.

I drive a 2001 Hyundai Elantra with about 60,000km on it and I have a couple of issues I am hoping for help with

1) Often when I turn the ignition, the RPM revs up over 2000, holds it for about 3-5 seconds, and then drops down to about 1000. When I put the car in gear, it drops again, below 1000 - anyone else have this? Is it something to worry about? It doesn't happen everytime, and it doesn't matter if it is hot/cold, wet/dry outside.

2) I am experiencing some hesitation when I push the gas pedal...once the car is started, I shift into Drive and when I push the gas, there is nothing for a few seconds, and then its like it jumps forward a bit and then everthing is fine...plus (and I don't know if this is related) I am getting really bad chugging and vibrations when idling at traffic lights, almost like it's about to stall. Otherwise, when driving in town or on highways, it runs great - no shaking, no chugging.

3) last year, I had a check engine light issue for a Right Wheel Speed Sensor - a mechanic friend told me it was no big deal, so I've been driving around with the Check Engine light going off and on every week or so and now I am wondering if this is adding to my other issues.

Looking forward to advice/reccomendations
Thanks!

In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles.
Has anyone else experienced problems like this. I do not ride the clutch

My wife has a 2006 Elantra,complaining about low brake pedal.It only has 32,000 miles on it.I pulled the rear drums off and the brakes are fine.But I see no way to get them adjusted.I adjusted them up as far as I could where I coud still get the drum on but there has to be a better way to do this.There is no slot in the drum or rear to adjust the star wheel.Help!!!!

I have a 2002 elantra gt. It leaks fluid like crazy. seems to be from underneath near or from the rack. Can the rack be resealed? At what cost. I live near Orlando and would also like the name of a reputible mechanic.
Thanks in advance for your responses.
Wayne

2002 Elantra GLS automatic.. sometimes when i drive, it feels like the car isn't getting enough power from the engine or something? and the car stalled before when i was just braking on a red? i have no idea whats going on

while driving at 60 km's the other day rpm's suddenly dropped for a couple seconds then spiked back to normal. Check Engine light came on and has stayed there.

Problem has continued at random timing at different speeds. I thought I heard something like a backfire when the rpm's spike back up.

What could this be ?

Sorry unable to get any codes or to dealership - Thanks giving weekend here in Canada.

i have a 2006 elantra and i've been looking for a ignition coil for my car. there isn't one that i've found that is specifically made for my car or one that i'm sure is compatible. the stock set up has the packs split with two cables on each so i'm not sure if i need a pack with four terminals or if they make it, two packs with two terminals like the stock set up. Or would a simple purchase of thicker cables do the trick? if anyone has a good suggestion please let me know

Hello all.....
I just had to sign up for this website after reading all the ridiculous threads about the misinformation concerning using ANY aftermarket automatic
transmission fluids that will "destroy" the transmission. You guys have GOT TO STOP with the silly scare tactics!

I have a 2003 Elantra GLS in MINT condition. When I did my 30K scheduled maintenance I switched over to Amsoil ATF. That was six years ago. I
have done trans flushes ever 30K with Amsoil since than. I now have 115,000 miles on my Elantra and the car shifts like butter...likes its brand new.

So, exactly when will my transmission "fail" or be "destroyed"???

Hi there,

I have a 2004 Elantra GT with just over 20K on it. I've noticed the brakes seem a little soft. Just wondering when the average mileage is when brakes are starting to need replaced?

Hello,
I have a 2002 Elantra GLS 2.0, 88K miles.
Recently my check engine light is on. The error code reads"P133 Bank 1 Oxygen sensor slow response".
I took it too some garages and Hyundai dealer. Some of them say I need a factory bank 1 O2 sensor. Some say I have a leak at the Flex pipe between the two sensors.( Actaully I was shown to the leak in the follwoing way: If the exhust pipe line is blocked and some solvent was sprayed to one end of the flex pipe, there are bulbs slowly formed. )

So my question is:
1: Will the minor leak at the flex pipe cause the error code of "Bank 1 Oxygen sensor slow response"?
2: Should I replace the O2 sensor first or should I replace a complete cat converter(including flex pipe) first?


Thanks
Ryan

I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra, which I love. It rarely gives me ANY problems whatsoever. But today, when I went to go to work, both my A/C and my power windows are not working.
A friend of mine "eyeballed" my fuses and they all seem ok. Also, we went to Auto Zone who thought it might have been a relay. When we put that in, the A/C and windows still did not work. We chose the relay we thought needed to be replaced from the nomenclature on the fuse box, hopefully we chose the correct one.
If anyone else has had this problem, or knows what it might be, I would really appreciate your help. I would like to avoid a trip to the dealer or mechanic if it is something we can fix ourselves.
Thanks in advance for your ideas and/or help! Feel free to email me, or leaves post here...thanks!
Lesle

Hi!

I posted about this once and was given some advice....but I have another question and wanted to make sure it was seen.

My 2001 Hyundai Elantra is having a few electrical issues.

The first issue is that my power windows stopped working. The fuse is good. I was assuming that the issue was maybe with the main switch or something...and honestly even though it's annoying...nonworking windows are the least of my issues at the moment, so I didn't even give it a second thought until recently.

Now my headlights are burning out within days. I have been through three pairs in the last month. Currently, I have given up and am avoiding driving at night or using my high beams (only the low ones are burning out). Someone suggested it was a faulty alternator...but I'm being told that the alternator and battery are fine.

Now, I've also noticed that when I open my doors at night the interior lights aren't coming on.

I'm thinking there is some sort of underlying electrical problem with the car. Any ideas?

Thanks so much!

Amanda

It has been posted on here previously, that they are replacing these lower control arms at no cost and re-embursing those who have paid to have it done.
That is all true. They are also checking the forward frame component if corroded and replacing that free of charge as well before re-imbursing the customer.
My frame is currently on order and waiting for it to arrive.
The wife gave her 2002 Elantra to the granddaughter and I have made arrangements for that to go in for lower control arm replacement and possible frame replacement also.
Wasnt sure if everyone was aware of the frame check

Recently my 2003 Elantra starting revving at higher RPMs. Typically at about 75-80mph it would be just over 3000RPM but now it is about 4000+. Not sure what would cause this or where to start trouble shooting.

We just bought a used or elantra. There is one keyless remote that works fine, However when I try to open the car with a key the alarm goes off every time.. My owners manual says the key should open the car without this problem. Any ideas?

Howdy All,

Today I tried to replace my rear brake pads myself and I ran into a difficult time. I had no idea that the calipers screw in and I assumed that a c-clamp was good enough.

however, surprisingly I was able to get the left rear caliper in. I'm not sure how, but my guess is the c-clamp must have caught the caliper and managed to screw with the cylinder as i turned the c-clamp. I was bale to replace the pads. however, I was not able to do the same to the right side and i actually snapped one c-lamp in half and stripped the other one.

I've heard that you can turn it the cylinder with a pair of needle nose pliers, but I've also heard that it requires a crazy amount of strength. What do you all think?

I'm also afraid i might have ruined my left rear calipers. Everything seems to work and the brakes worked with no problems on a 40 min test drive. Is there anything I should check in particular?

Thanks in advance!

Hi to all!

Am just new here.

I already search the boards but didn't find the answer. Just got a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. It only has 42k miles. What I noticed is that when I turn off the engine, a clicking or ticking sound can be heard. Is it normal?

It's been a fun couple of weeks... Trying to sell my car, but can't get check engine light to stay off. I was throwing codes p0302 and p0507. I replaced the intake manifold gasket and that took care of p0302. I replaced the tps and the iac valve and still no luck with p0507. Then I cleaned the throttle and then the light went away. I drove around for about an hour. Turning the car on and off about 12 times. I parked the car for the night and started it back up in the morning, and I'm throwing the p0507 code again. Any thoughts as to what to do, or what caused the light to go away? I certainly can't clean the throttle plate every morning...

I have been having slight hesitation when I accelerate the first time with a cool or cold engine. The engine can cool for a minimum of four hours and still hesitate. After the second acceleration the hesitation is gone. This is even more noticeable when I have the a/c on with a cool or cold engine. I have no hesitation after that or when the engine is still hot. I suspect that the fuel injectors may be cloged and I put some STP fuel injector cleaner in the tank, and it seems to have cleared up a little. Should I try another tank full of STP if the problem is not comlpetely cleared up by the end of the first treatment? Or should I have the engine checked to verify the problem and/or have the injectors cleaned professionaly?

Thanks,

DS

MY DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS HAVE GONE KAPUT, STILL HAVE MY HIGH AND LOW BEAMS, I WAS LOOKING UNDER THE HOOD AT THE FUSE/RELAY BOX BUT CANNOT DETERMINE WHICH IS IT, ANY IDEAS?

OK FOUND THE DRL FUSE IT'S FINE ANY SUGGESTIONS?

Hi all,
My car is Elantra 2003 GLS. I need help figuring out part numbers for two relays from the fuse box under the hood. They are gone (stolen) and I need to find replacements. Here they are on the diagram:
[attachment=14552:fusebox_...adlights.jpg]
Two dealerships told me that both have the same part number. That can't be right, they have different connector configurations. I know it's a lot of work but if somebody could pull out the relays and write down the part numbers, that would be awesome. The numbers should be something like 95_ _ _ - _ _ _ _ _. Any other advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kevin

Hello All,
I'm new here and need a little help. I own a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS, over the summer my battery exploded and acid shot all over the engine compartment. So far I've been able to replace almost every part except for the plastic cover (not sure what it's called) that goes over the engine. It's smaller to the one below. Would anyone happen to know what this part is called and where I can find one.

Also has anyone had problems with their gas tank overflow cut off. This past winter I began have problems pumping gas, if I pull the trigger all the way it "click" as if the tank is full even though it's not. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem and if so what might be causing it.




Forgive me if these questions have been asked before. I did some searches but I didn't come up with anything.

Does anyone know if the catalytic converter is covered up to 80,000 miles?

Thank you!

Hi all, I've bought a 2003 elantra, and it came with e broken a/c fan,I replace it with a universal one.
My mechanic also recharged the a/c.
When driving the car, it blows cold, when I leave it idle for a while ,it stops blowing cold.
At night it blows ok.
Also I can head a tssst sound coming from the a/c when it is working.
I noticed that when I push the gas the compressor stops working, and when I let the gas pedal go, and the engine goes beck to 1000rpm, it goes back on.
Can someone help me with my problem?