So I have an error code: P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Malfunction.

Let me start from the beginning . . .

Okay, so a few weeks ago, I am pulling my 2000 Elantra (under 80,000 miles on it!) into my work's parking garage, after my daily 10 minute highway drive to work, and my car stops running as I am idling to flash my badge to get into the garage. Weird. It starts back up on the second attempt, and than shuts down again after backing into a parking spot that I found on the 4th floor of the parking garage. Very weird! I was very close to running on no gas that morning, but I felt like I knew my car, and I didn't anticipate a problem. Anyway, it seemed to happen when I was idling. I don't know if that was gas-related, and purely coincidental, but I thought I would mention it this here. Since this did not happen again after filling my gas tank, I dismissed it as nothing.


Startled by the idea of car trouble, I figured that I should check all my fluids to make sure my car was fine otherwise. My engine always leaked a little bit of oil from the gasket seal--no big deal--I just put a little oil in every once and a while. So, here I am, about to put a little more oil in (w-30 to add to the existing w-40, as it is a little thicker and should not leak as fast), when I take off my oil cap, and find a big, yellow, boogerish glob under the oil cap, and some inside my engine too where I can see in. I was freaked out! After reading what I found on the internet about this phenomenon referred as engine condensation, and being as though there was no white/yellowish spots on my dipstick, my concerns were put at ease. That is, until the other night, when my car would not start at all!

It definitely does not sound like a battery problem (I replaced the battery a few years back, anyway). After like the 5th attempt at starting it, it finally started after I held the key turned for what felt like a good minute. With that eventual start came the "Check Engine" light, so I drove it a few minutes back to my house, where it still sits.

My brother came by and tested the "check engine" light, and came up with the aforementioned P0335 error number.
What do you guys think? Do you suspect any coincidences, or does everything add up?

It seems like I have enough oil in my engine, with the amount coming almost right up to the "F" on the dipstick. I've had plenty of gas in the car, and did not experience a shut down since those couple times at the parking garage about a week and a half ago.

I am trying to approach this situation as cheaply as possible. Should I just order a new crankshaft position sensor and start from there? Or does this type of error, and accompanying experience, dictate that I should check something else first? Oh yeah, should mention that I checked underneath the radiator cap to see if there was any white/yellowish buildup there, and there was none (I read online that there might be some yellow goop under the radiator cap if coolant had gotten into the engine and mixed with the oil. The same message boards described the yellow goop as condensation from short drives, as well as possibly from mixing oild types/brands--both of which, I have done recently.).

I don't know anything about cars, but am willing to tackle this myself (depending on what it might be). Any helpful diagrams/instructions for a DIY job? What do you guys think?

Thanks a great deal for your time.
Matt

I bought a 2000 hyundai elantra with a bad transmission. I was planning to just swap it out, but i'm not convinced that the transmission itself is actually dead.
The car does not go into anything other than 1st gear, no reverse either. With the exception of 1 day where i was able to drive it around for the entire day and the transmission performed perfectly. No hesitation, no slipping, no problem with reverse. I shut the car off left it for hours and it still worked perfectly. I also gunned the throttle a couple of times while driving to try to get it to screw up. The next day NFG, nothing but first.

Here's what I know:

At least one of the pulse gen sensors has been changed (changed by previous owner's mechanic)
the fluid is clean (I suspect it was changed by previous owner's mechanic)
The computer registers that the gearshift has changed positions.
The computer is sending the command to change into reverse.
The transmission does not register being in reverse when the gearshift is in the reverse position.
The car behaves as if it is in neutral when in reverse. Also reflected in the feedback from the transmission.
The voltage drop from the negative battery terminal to the transmission is less than 0.01v
I carefully removed an aftermarket security system with remote start (it was slightly hacked in, but i did not see any serious damage)

I connected a scantool and got a couple of codes however I don't think these codes were ever cleared by the previous owners mechanic:

P0732: If the value resulting from driving the PG-A output (input shaft rotation speed) by the 2nd gear ratio does not match the PG-B output (output shaft rotation speed) after 2nd gear is engaged, DTC P0732 is output.

P0733: If the value resulting from dividing the PG-A output (Input shaft rotation speed) by the 3rd gear ratio does not match the PG-B output (output shaft rotation speed) after 3rd gear is engaged, DTC P0733 is output.

P0734: If the value resulting from dividing the PGA output (input shaft rotation speed) by the 4th, gear ratio does not match the PG-B output (output shaft rotation speed) after 4th gear is engaged, DTC P0734 is output.

P0722: If DTC P0722 is output 4 times, there is an open circuit in PG-B fail-safe code P0722 is output and the vehicle is locked in 3rd gear (D) or 2nd gear (2,L) as a fail-safe measure.



I am an intrumentation engineer and have the ability to take ANY measurement including looking at digital signals. I can connect to the majority of the car's systems with my scan tool.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

When this started happening I took it to the mechanic shop and he said I needed a new(used) transmission. Which I paid $1100 and it took forever to get my car back. He said it came with a 6 month warranty from the transmission company. When I picked it up I started driving away and the car starts doing the same thing it was doing when I dropped it off it is stuck in 3rd or higher gear. I turned around and took it back and the mechanic said he will have to get another transmission which he supposedly put in my car. It has been fine but now 4 months later it is doing the exact same thing. The mechanic has had it for a week and now tells me the transmission place wants him to replace the speed sensor and if it's not that then it is the processor. Does this sound right? My gut is telling me something is not right here. When I asked him why it is doing the exact same thing he said it's not and my original transmission was burnt out. What do I do here? Please help.

Hi,

I just got a second hand 1996 hyundai elatra wagon. I am having this weird problem.

When i turn on the head light the dim one turns on and all other light works, but the hard head front light doesn't turn on for a while and after i start driving the car, it turns on after like 1 minutes.

what can be the problem?

please let me have some information.

thank you

Hi all,

Recently, my car's clutch (or I assume so) has started acting up. If I accelerate very gently there's no problem, but if I push the throttle ~30% or more open, then in any gear (hard to tell in first given how freely it revs anyway!) the revs build up to about 4000-4500 and the car barely accelerates, as if I was riding the clutch (my foot is firmly planted on the floor). Eventually it feels like the plates grip each other again and the car goes as normal, until I change gear and the whole process repeats itself. If I open the throttle fully, the revs get dangerously close to the redline - and I have no idea if it settles after this because I back off, scared of blowing up my engine.

The car has about 124000 miles on it and I've owned it for 5 months. I'm assuming it's the clutch that's the problem, but I could be wrong. I haven't sent it to a garage to look at yet as I don't have the time - but I'm happy to look at various things inside and see if there's anything wrong if you guys can suggest. I'm no mechanic though...

My right tail light went out, including brake lights. I originally only replaced the brake lights then later on I replace the tail light bulb , which is a 194 bulb. I noticed the old light was brown and really burnt out, even the light holder was a little brown. I've rotated the bulb but nothing happens, it still does not come on. The car is always off when I replace it. I have brought two packs already (that's 4 bulbs total). The left side still works, it's just the right tail light that does not work. I've check all the fuses inside the car with a tester but nothing. Please help.

Anyone know how hard of a job and/or how much this job costs? My power steering line has a hole in it, no pressure to the pump, and its drippin....any help or insight will be greatly appreciated.

Hi. Yesterday I bought a new manual antenna for my 1999 Lantra Sportswagon as someone broke off the original one. It's not a genuine part.

I've managed to remove the bracket that fixes to the chassis and work out which cable is the audio one and undo that. The antenna will rotate but absolutely won't come out of the hole. It seems to be because there is something on the inside flush with the metal that's wider than the hole as well as the rubber surround on the outside.

What am I supposed to do? Cut off the rubber surround with a box cutter? I'm worried I'll scratch the paintwork and it still won't come out.

Any suggestions very welcome.

I know this is a dumb question, but I can't get the bolts of the rocker cover off to get to the spark plug wires. I tried using a ratchet with a 9mm extension, which was apparently too small, couldn't get it on the bolts at all, and I tried a 10mm, which must be too big. Any help?

I just bought a 2000 Elantra and the radio, clock, dome light, and map lights do not work. The radio lights up when I turn on the lights but will not come on. I have checked all the fuses in the kick panel under the dash and the light bulbs in each light everything looks fine. Any advice on what to check next?

My Hyundai Elantra 2000 steering vibrates side-by-side in between 25 and 40 MPH and goes away over 50 MPH. It started last month after I rotated and balanced the tires at Discount Tire. Tires are 7 months old. According to Discount Tire, all wheels are balanced and they visually inspected the front rims and said they were OK. Discount Tire said the vibration issue is not with the tires. I had a friend check the tie-rod, bearings and CV joints and they seemed OK. The vibration is mild and I can probably live with it even though it can be annoying when driving for a long time. What is causing the vibration?

I read that out-of-balance tires cause steering wheel vibration at 50 MPH or higher. That is not the case for me. I also read warped break rotors can cause vibration. I replaced brake pads 8 months ago and the rotors were shaved, not replaced. I still have original breaks on rear wheels. I only have 50 some thousand miles on this car.

Your comment will be appreciated.

Hi

I have been borrowing my dads car on a long-term loan so could really do to fix this before it has to be returned

I was simply driving down the road today at a steady pace, noticed when I came to a standstill at a junction that the engine seemed to be missing a beat almost, not quite 'up & down' erratic idle but as if the idle speed had lowered too low, there was some vibration from the engine and it sounded like it was struggling to idle. It seems to be putting out a little more exhaust smoke than before, smells very rich as though it isnt burning fuel properly. Upon acceleration, the performance seems very restricted, it seems to rev up freely without any load in neutral but as soon as its driving there is hardly no power whatsoever.

Despite being a 98 plate car it has only done 47000miles and is in very good condition otherwise. Because of the seeming richness of the exhaust smoke I thought perhaps it could be a problem with the spark (possibly even coil pack?). I have read in other threads about the MAF sensor, do you think this could be the cause? Either way, I dont have a fault code scanner that can read it (I only have OBD2 reader, which wont read this) so was wanting to try a few things without resorting to taking to a garage to scan the codes for me?

Any help would be VERY GRATEFULLY received.......

Thanks
Tarmac Terrorist

Hello people

Hoping you can help! For the last year (ish) my Hyundai Lantra Sportwagon (1996) has a very weird problem that NO mechanic has been able to find.

It kinda chugs/coughs sometimes. It's usually when the car is warmer, not so much in the mornings but on the way home from work. It's like it can't find the gear... but it's a manual. I'll put my foot down on the accelarator and it won't speed up for a couple of seconds and then it 'jumps' into it... but then also this same kinda of chugging can happen with no foot on the accelator at 80km or more. If I put the clutch in - it stops and I usually ease it out a little to stop it.

Anyway - I've taken it to two mechanics and they can't replicate the chugging so I don't think they believe me.

I've just dropped it off this morning he's called to say he can't replicate it but by the way, it needs a $500 service to fix some other stuff. Hmmmmm.

SO frustrating.

Any ideas ? OH and also - the 'Check Engine' light comes on - just about everytime I drive it. It's done this for a while. TOok it to the mechanic a while ago and he replaced some leads... something to do with exhaust probs. Seem to fix that for a while but now it's back.

I'm just about ready to throw this car over a cliff. It's probably only worth $3500 but I can't really afford to buy a new one.

Help would be MUCH appreciated.

Happy Monday.
vrtjane

I have a 2000 wagon 5 spd with 99k miles. It idles perfectly when cold or warm. It revs perfectly but at times it bogs, skips and jumps when I press the gas when on load (not everytime). It then gives a p0302 code cylinder 2 misfire. I did the vacuum test by spraying starter fluid on the intake manifold area to see if there's a leak. Also changed the wires and spark plugs. Did sea foam. Still the same problem.

What gives? could it be the exhaust manifold has a crack? but it doesn't have an exhaust leak code
Fuel filter? but it revs great only when not on load

Well today i was driving and my shoe was wet, and when I shifted my foot slipped off the clutch and it returned really violently to it's disengaged position. Now when I press the peddle it only moves about 20mm and is then rock solid.
I look under the bonnet and the slave cylinder is stuck in the open position. i have tried using a little bit of force on it but it still won't move. I do not know whether the master or slave cylinder are damaged, or it is something inside the trans.
I'm sure I'm not the only one who's had this. I have included pics to help.
My car is Hyundai Lantra J2 1996 manual. It's an Australian model so it's right hand drive if that helps.


You can see that the cylinder is stuck in the open position. It looks a bit rusted as well.
It also looks as if the bar is slightly off centre, perhaps it has extended too far?

Can anyone tell me the correct power steering fluid to top up with for a late 1999/early 2000 Lantra UK model? The handbook that came with the car says PSF-3 which I can't find round here however I can get plenty of Dexron 111 spec. power steering fluid. The Haynes Elantra manual says for the Elantra (US model), PSF-3 was not used until 2001 and before that it was Dexron 111. What is the difference anyway between the two fluids and can they be mixed?

i have a 99 hyundai elantra wagon with the 2.0 motor i have 4 codes on they are p1624,p0137,p0732and p0740 what are these codes and r they all connected or different problem i just bought the car so any help is appeciated thank u in advance

Hello,
Just curios who has over 200,000 miles on there Elantra.
Please do not hijack this forum and turn it into a maintance issue forum.
In other words I know it depends on how often you change the oil etc.
In General I am just curious who has high mileage on their ? Elantra's
I know a few people that have over 250,000 on there Honda's and Toyotas.
Do you think that Hyandi's are just as good?
I am a recent Hyundai Elantra Station wagon owner I love the car I bought it with 50,000 miles and Hoping to get at least 200,000 on it.
If you got your transmission or engine replaced you do not count LOL.

So reply back with how many miles you have on your car I am curious.
Jonathan.

I'm working on my front disc brakes right now, and I just bought new rotors from Autozone.

I noticed that the old rotors....the screw holes that hold the rotor to the hub weren't matched up. I'm thinking that whoever owned this car before me didn't realize that and put those rotors on anyways.

Now, the new rotors I'm putting on that I got from Autozone....the holes match up. But there are no screws given when I bought the car at an auction last month. Do you know what kind of screws I need to secure the rotor to the hub?

Thanks for your help!

i´ve got two trouble codes when connecting my DIAG 4000 to my Hyundai Elantra 1996 1.8

00:0
05:0

Anybody know what they mean?

Im totally stumped. To start off my Girlfriend has a 2000 elantra 2.0. it has 96k miles with absoulutly NO maintence done since 50k when she bought it 5 years ago. The past 3 weeks this car has had very bad power loss wont even barley get over 40 mph getting on the freeway. Going up hill it totally boggs down the more i press the gas it slows the car down more like it being flooded. i replaced plugs and wires 7 months ago because of a mis-fire cyl 4 and knew this thing never had a oz of routine maint. done. code was cleared and didnt come back. 2 weeks ago i had the tranny flushed and re-filled with spiii hyandai fluid. cel came on again on the way home mis-fire 4 agian. i replaced valve cover gasket and the little rubber plug seals/gaskets that go inside the valve cover itsself to stop the number 4 plug wich was becomming submerged in oil causing the mis-fire i believe. ok that problem is fixed. no cel anymore as far as i can tell but acceleration is very poor. it sounds like a honda civic with a intake but no power to accelerate over 40mph. i did a compression test tonite all for cylinders came back PERFECT 210-213 Suprised the **** outta me. could a clogged fuel filter be causing this much trouble thats my next thing to replace im stummped. Thanks guys for any suggestions.

Hello everyone, i wonder if there is anyone who could help me with a problem I am experiencing with my 1997 Elantra. It has 250,000 on the clock. This car simply has no power in low gear when travelling slowly. To get up an incline I need a running start, otherwise it cuts out. It almost feels as if the car is trying to climb the hill from a stopped position in 3rd gear. It is also very jerky at low speeds. I have already spent a fortune with the official Hyundai workshop and they have no idea what the problem could be. They have run all the tests (compression, co2 levels etc) and can find nothing wrong. I have changed the fuel filter anyway as to me it feels like a fuel starvation problem but that made no difference.
Wanda
wstadler@wessakzn.org.za

hi folks, my 96 elantra sometimes starts with a slow turn over as if the battery is dead, however i change the battery and the starter and still once in a while get the same problem. does anyone know what could be the problem? the new battery has a cca of 700 . i was wondering if the cables too the battery or the starter could be the cause .

Hello All:

I have a 1999 elantra which has a problem starting when sitting a while. It may take up to 20 minutes for it to finally catch. But after it starts it runs fine. I can turn the car off and it will start with no problem. The next day car will start fine. Last night I tried to start the car and this time it didn't start. I have done proper maintenance on the car with new battery, spark plugs and starter. The car was emission tested last week and passed with flying colours. From reading on other sites it may be the Fuel MFI Relay. Does any one know of any other relays that could be causing this problem. Or starting issues. thanks.

I've looked at the HMASERVICE.COM website, and their illustrations are hard to read on where the location of the fuel filter is. HMASERVICE says it's in the engine cavity, near the air filter housing, on the driver's side.

I bought into Chilton's DIY online for this vehicle, and it says it's under the car next to the fuel tank.

Where is this thing located?

Thanks!

I'm having an issue with my 2000 Elantra. Recently, I was changing out my left front marker lens, and after doing so, my dash lights and left front and rear markers stopped working. Dummy lights are still intact. Checked all fuses and bulbs and they were all fine. I can't figure out what the problem is. Anyone have any idea? Thanks!

Hi there,

I blew up my 1.6 engine at around 250,000km on the clock a few months ago but managed to find a 1.8 lantra station wagon that we put in. All was going well until the 5 speed manual gearbox decided to go also. The bearings have popped out of the housing and pretty much disentagrated so time for a new gearbox as it also punched a hole out the side of the outside casing.

The question I have is I have found a 1998 Hyundai Coupe FX , 5 speed manual fitted to a 2 litre engine and was wondering if anyone new if this would fit or if there is any charts/information i can look at to see.

Its only done 100,000km so im pretty keen on it if it will fit with no issues.

Ive done a search through the forums but have been unable to find any information. If anyone has any help it would be very much appreciated.

I just bought this car two weeks ago at an auto auction in Lancaster, California. It's a nice vehicle. I found this forum and went through it trying to find answers to my questions, but I couldn't. So I thought I would ask here.

1. Is it easy to replace the gasket on the ATF pan for this vehicle? I called my local dealer, and they said it's 200 bucks to do the work (190 in labor, 10 for the part). He mentioned that there's a sealant used. I looked at HMASERVICE.COM, and I see how they use the gasket and sealant together.

2. In going around these forums, I'm noticing that the car may NOT have a ATF filter. Is this true?

3. My car has 119,000 miles on it. I'm thinking of taking it to the dealer to do a ATF Flush for 145 bucks. And they'll use that SPIII fluid that's specifically designed for Hyundai vehicles. Is it better to do the flush or the drain/fill? They're charging 59 bucks for the drain/fill.

The reason I'm thinking about doing this is because, even though the car shifts, it high-revs to shift to the next gear. Is that normal? My wife says it is because it's 4 cylinder with high mileage on it.

Thanks for your help and advice.

Hi,

Looked everywhere for this answer but unable to locate, so here goes.

Recently purchased a 1999 Lantra wagon, and just wanted to know where the anchor points are for child restraints.

If anyone can help, it will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Car won't start, engine cranks fine, sometimes it starts after pumping the gas peddle and cranking the starter for 30-45 seconds. When it fails to start I boil water and squirt the boiling water on the Temperature sending unit and the engine starts right up first try. Can anyone explain what's my real starting problem?
I've replaced everything except the injectors and the PCM. New Plugs and wires, coil, temp sending sensor, fuel pump, filter, regulator, throttle position sensor, Cam and crank postion sensors, battery after it failed from cranking the engine so much to get it sterted.

I have recently purchased an 99 Lantra and when I changed the battery the radio is requiring a code. Unfortunately I have no literature with the vehicle hence no code for the stereo. Can anyone assist me please on the code and procedure to set it.
Thank you in antication
Ian

I have a 1999 Elantra that has a no spark condition after it died while driving. I checked to make sure the T-Belt was still intact and it is. So I then went after the ignition system. I checked the cam and crank sensors and they were only slightly off spec so I replaced them. But, when I went to replace the crank sensor I found it was broken ( at it's bolt hole). Hmmm, I thought to myself. I then looked into the crank positions hole in the block and saw the Crank tonewheel teeth. They were slightly scoffed, I then put a screwdriver into the hole and found I can rotate the tonewheel, and not rotate the crank. I'm sure this is wrong, or maybe I'm wrong. Assuming I'm right, and the tonewheel is suppose to be fixed to the crank, how should it be fixed to the crank? Is it bolted? welded? Before I start major dissasemly I'd like to know if I need a new part or will be able to fix the existing. Thanks for any and all help.

Hi, can someone pls help ??

Hyundai Lantra 2000 SW 2.0Lt
Recently had all belts replaced (by a general mechanic) inc Internal timing belt.
Now, 2 weeks after this, the engine is making ticking noise,
I suspect that the noise is coming from the valves.

Could this relate to the belts replacement ?? loose or too tight belt, or even misaligned belts??

Thanks in advance,
Salih

Have tried everything with my 97 Elantra. The stalling/studdering/loss of power problem is getting worse and worse. The car is becoming dangerous to drive. Does anyone have any last bit of advice for me? In case you haven't seen my posts; here is the problem I am having.

I have a 1997 Hyundai Elantra. It has 215,000 miles on the shell, about 130,000 on the engine. I have owned the car for about three years. Around a year ago, I started noticing that every now and then, when I would put the key in the ignition, nothing at all would happen. I would have no electrical power whatsoever. Usually I would get the car to start though, by just turning the key until the ignition responded. Eventually this problem went away, but now I have a new problem. About two months ago, immediately after replacing my brake calipers, I noticed the car idling rough. Soon the car was stalling. Now the car idles rough, runs rough, and stalls out frequently. The only problem is, the engine isn't sending codes. I've been told that the fuel pressure is fine, the spark plugs are fine, the ignition coil is fine, the MAF sensor is fine, that basically everything is fine. No one knows what is wrong with it. Not even the Hyundai dealership. I'm ready to give up on it. I just don't like being defeated. Is there anything else you might be able to think of that could be faulty?

Could I have a bad ECU? The check engine light has been on ever since I owned the car. Code signals a faulty EVAP canister. However, about three months ago the check engine light went out. I assumed it burned out, but have read that this could actually indicate a bad ECU.

Any advice? Suggestions? It amazes me that no one can figure this out. Thanks in advance.

how can i increase the speed of my hyundai lantra model 1999 and if also somebody can provide me with details of buying cheap body car kit.
also i needed to know if i can install turbo in my car??

thanx

Hey guys, I am working on the wife's car. She's a 1999 Hyundai Elantra. This car had an exhaust manifold that was on recall due to a crack in the manifold. After the car got this replaced she had been doing fine, now the check engine light came on. Got an OBd scanner and got two throw codes.

p0141
Bank 1, Sensor 2
O2 sensor circuit malfunction

p0138
Bank 1, Sensor 2
02 sensor High Volts

So same sensor, 2 problems. I'm not a mechanic but am mechanically inclined and am fully capable of replacing an 02 sensor on my own. I don't know which sensor this is, I can see 2 sensors; one on the exhaust manifold and one under the car along the exhaust pipe. Haven't a clue what bank means... With throw codes like these is it a simple replacement of offending 02 sensor or is their something wrong with the circuit and which 02 sensor do I need to replace. Car parts store said either 'upstream or downstream' were my choices.

Any help is appreciated guys!

been looking online for a manual for my h/lantra cdx 1999 with no joy what so ever i was able to access the hmaservice.com website hoping that an elantra would be similar but could not get the agreement page to load in either mozilla or explorer,has anyone got any ideas where i can get a downloadable cd for this uk model,need it mainly for my other thread of removing the p/s cooling line.

hyundai lantra cdx 1999.i've had a major leak from a corroded p/s cooling line,it's the one that runs a loop underneath the radiator and runs around a cannister/filter then up behind the front bumper and comes out just underneath the rear of the main headlight drivers side and the part i cannot access is either a mount or a joint section,but by the looks of it the front bumper has to come off to access it,or i could be wrong has anyone had experience with doing this,any help would be glady recieved before i strip my car to a thousand bits....just to update....maybe able to access if headlight unit is removed but can only see one bolt at the front all the rest seem to be behind the reflector inside the headlight and how do you get that out,seems like a real pain in the butt to get out....anybody....please.headlight out or bumper off or is there another way.

I'm getting mixed messages in researching a replacement battery for my '99 Elantra. On some sites it talks about odd sizes that are hard to access, but, since I've needed to jump mine a few times this winter already (I'm in Wisconsin) I haven't noticed any significant difference between that one and all the others I've had over 30+ years of owning cars.

That left me questioning whether a previous owner (I've had it since '02) replaced the battery already, especially given that I haven't had any problems with it in previous winters. I'll have a chance to get a better look at it in the morning and see what's in there now for sure. In any case, tomorrow will be the day I go out shopping for a replacement. And I need to figure out what I need to look for.

I've got it on a trickle charger overnight (it's parked in a way that I can't get another car close enough to jump it) so I'll look at it better when I take the charger off of it in the morning, and check back in here to see what folks have to say, and to say what I've learned so far.

Previous experiences welcome as well as best guesses what I'm going to need to know.

TIA!

Hi,

After a couple of days of cold weather in the South of UK I wanted to get my Y registered (2001?) Lantra going this morning. It started ok, and most of the electrics seem to work, except for the rear windscreen demister and the front wipers.

The rear demister doesn't seem to work at all - I press the button on the dashboard and the light doesn't come on.

The front wipers also don't work on any of the settings. Also the washer fluid doesn't come out, but I expect that to have problems due to the cold.

I had my car running for over an hour, and I got all of the snow off the car but the problems remain.

Could it be the cold? Is it just a question of waiting for the cold to pass? They were both working the last time I took the car out before the cold snap.

Any help / advice would be great. Thanks.

Hi there;

I'm looking to replace the stereo in my 1997 lantra sedan/saloon LSi with one i have lying around (i miss the cd player and aux port ) but I can't find any instructions on removing the old unit.

Anyone got any tips?

hi got a similar problem to a thread by lifelikechild posted 28 dec,but i have no way yet to test for codes so i will explain probs and hopefully we can go from there.
first off car warm or cold would not start no eletrical or any life signs,found it was the crank knock sensor.problem was solved.
then car would idle irractically but not all the time,cleaned out the maf,it solves it breifly but this is still happening at present.
so far i have changed plugs and air filter,by eye cannot see any breaks in any pipes that might be causing vacuum leaks.
my main problem is when warm or cold and driving car loses power mainly it seems if revs are not high enough it splutters but does not backfire.it seems like theres a blockage and as revs build up it picks up speed it drives as normal,or if spluttering in 2nd instead of waiting for revs to build up if i change to 1st the problem does not happen.
without being able to check for codes at present is there any possible place to start and check with a multimeter before i take it to a mechanic and get charged.
would be grateful for any guidance as to where to start first.

I have a 1999 Elentra GLS yesterday I installed a new stereo system with xm, after putting all the dash back together and making sure all wires were reconnected I turned on the car to check all the functions. Everything worked fine except the ac button above the fan control. I push the button and the motor kicks in and the light turns green but as soon as I let my finger off the button the light goes out and the button goes right back to its original position. The fans work wether the ac is pushed or not the heater works perfectly the hazard and rear defogger work fine the cruize works. Is there something I forgot to plug in maybe or something I can check? I checked all the fuses and each one is fine so thats out but other then that there are no kinked wires or bare spots.
Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

As fate would have it, I just finished replacing the brakes on my 97 Elantra and now I think my fuel pump is going out on me. It is idling rough and threatening to stall almost every time I accelerate. Does anyone know where the fuel pump is located on this vehicle? Is it difficult to replace?

Thankss

I have a '99 Elantra 2.0, 5 speed. We bought it a few weeks ago with 110k on it. It ran great and I changed the oil in it and looked it over, then it was driven for less than 48 hours by an inexperienced 5 speed driver. Details are fuzzy on what happened, but he hit/ran over something and tried to drive home but didn't make it.

When I got to the car, the crankshaft position sensor was hanging out of the block with a pit in it from being knocked out from the inside. I replced the sensor and the car still had no spark or fuel. When I stuck my finger in the CKP hole, I found that the gear that the sensor counts spins free on the crank.

All 4 cyclinders still cycle with compression, the valve train is intact, and the starter spins it, so I know the crank isn't broken off completely. Does anyone know how this gear is put on the crank? Will I have to replace the whole crank or can I replace the gear or maybe even just a key? Has anyone ever heard of this happening on any car?

Thanks

Hello everyone, i have recently registered and im wondering if anyone can help me? I'm looking for a Camshaft off a 1998 1.8 Lantra? Anyone know of anyone breaking a car ect? Any information appreciated.

Thankyou in advance Craig

1997 hyundai excel headlights and high beam lights not working.
All othere lights and switches work.
BOTH left and right indicators work but headlights dont.
PLEASE HELP.

My 97 Elantra is running very rough. I think it is misfiring. Sometimes it stalls out completely in traffic. Brought the car to the garage and it didn't send any codes. They think it might be a faulty plug wire. Wouldn't a faulty plug wire throw a code? Any idea what my problem is? Thanks..

Does anyone have any experience replacing the PCV valve on the 97 Elantra/Tiburon? Mine broke off while I was trying to unscrew it from the back of the valve cover, leaving me no other choice but to purchase another valve cover. It seems it was either cross-threaded, heat-fused to the threading into which it screws. Any advice on how to remove these things?

Anyone know where I can get one cheaper? No luck at the local salvage yards..

Car is a 97 Elantra