Hi

I have a problem, on my Lantra 1996 (really, engine G4GM is 1995 made) check engine lamp lite on. Our hyundai dealers doesn't know which tester is needed to read the error code on this car. Can anybody help me find a tool to read the engine error code?

Hello,
Just curios who has over 200,000 miles on there Elantra.
Please do not hijack this forum and turn it into a maintance issue forum.
In other words I know it depends on how often you change the oil etc.
In General I am just curious who has high mileage on their ? Elantra's
I know a few people that have over 250,000 on there Honda's and Toyotas.
Do you think that Hyandi's are just as good?
I am a recent Hyundai Elantra Station wagon owner I love the car I bought it with 50,000 miles and Hoping to get at least 200,000 on it.
If you got your transmission or engine replaced you do not count LOL.

So reply back with how many miles you have on your car I am curious.
Jonathan.

i have been told that if you put the 2 litre DOHC head on the block of the 1.8L DOHC motor you can get something like 20-30 extra hp out of your motor..... any truth to this??? and if so how should i go about doing this? like what head gasket should i use etc. cheers guys any help much appreciated

The front engine mount on my car looks like it doesn't bear much engine weight. I get alot of vibration on take off. Is there a way to adjust it that will lessen the vibration? How do you know when it needs to be replaced?

hi

please can anyone help.

i have an 1996 lantra 1.8si automatic and the nearside outer cv joint is going, ive tried to order one but have been told there are 2 sorts i need to no how many splines it has on the shaft can anyone help and also replacing this can i do at home ? if so how do i go about it and do i need any special tools?


cheers
colin

Hey everyone I just picked up a 2007 elantra and the car has been sitting for about two years. well it starts up fine sounds good but when i push the clutch in it is super light and it wont go into any gears forward or reverse. It does not get stuck down it goes through the motion perfectly it just does not seem to have any pressure. Any help would be great. PS all the fluid levels look full and there is no leaks that I can see.

Front RHS sidelight bulb has become barely visible on my 1997 Lantra Estate. Can't see an obvious way to change it. Any help? How found connector but how do you get the bulb out?

Hello ther! I am 10 months into my second Hyundai (previously an early Accent) and now a 97/98 Lantra Estate. Both have been phenomenally reliable, but had common problems ie windows!
My Lantra is a clutch fluid, power steering fluid and engine oil devourer, so it needs a regular eye. Bit I now have another problem, the front RHS sidelight bulb is barely visible, I thought it would be obvious how to replce it but it eludes me . All help appreciated!

Our Elantra 2.0 GLS (station wagon) developed in the last 4 months a bad exhaust leak, and became increasingly noisy. I decided to inspect the exhaust and I found the Header (Flex) pipe being the culprit.
I initially tried to patch it up with some Exhaust System Joint and Crack Sealer (made by VersaChem), but it turned out that the "flex" section itself was cracked.
The car has 93,000 miles so I decided it's time for a new cat + manifold as well, since they were relatively non-prohibitive cost wise.
I ended up ordering the parts from RockAuto.com:
--> DORMAN Part # 674551 - Combined Manifold & Converter Assembly - $ 151.89

-
--> BOSAL Part # 751191 - Header (Flex) Pipe; Federal Emissions - $ 75.89

-
--> BOSAL Part # 288011 - Resonator (Intermediary) Pipe; Federal Emissions- $ 113.79

-
--> 2 x BOSAL Part # 256390 - Flange Gasket - 2 x 3.86 = $ 7.72
-
--> 2 x BOSAL Part # 256398 - Flange Gasket - 2 x 2.79 = $ 5.58
The shipping was $ 32.86 for all these parts, and the total accounted for $ 387.73
-________________________________________________________________________________-

I've been getting uneven idle. New plugs, new wires, clean throttle, clean IAC, clean MAF. No misfire codes.

Tested coil resistance (cold engine):
Primary:
bet 1/3 : 0.9 ohms
bet 2/3 : 0.8 ohms

Secondary:
bet 1/4 : 10.3 K
bet 2/3 : 10.3 K

hmaservice specs:
primary - 0.5 ohms +/- 0.05
secondary - 12.1 K +/- 1.8K

The resolution on my multimeter is 0.1 ohm at the lowest range setting of 200 ohm. When I short circuit the test leads, my reading is 0.1 ohm.

The primary resistances are above the high end of the spec range but they are about even with eachother.
The secondary resistance is exactly at the low end of the spec range.

My fuel pump only pumps when the starter is engaged and after the engine starts. It takes 20 seconds for the engine to start and I assume it's because the fuel pump doesn't pump up fuel pressure when the key is turned on. I can't find anything that shows me the fuel pump relay or fuse location. My Haynes manual and the on-line forums all refer to it but nothing about where it's located. I've looked everywhere and can't find a single fuse or relay marked FUEL PUMP. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Clyde

My car has had a few issues and I hope that someone can give me some help. My hyundai Elentra 2000 seems to continue to over heat after running the car on the road. The car sits and idles and does not over heat, however I can hear coolant boiling in the engine. I was told that this could be a blown head gasket however the only sign of this is the car is over heating, when the radiator cap is over, water will begin to boil out of the radiator. Also the car is not producing hardly an heat in the cabin, even when the car is at running temperature. Many times the cabin heat is very cold then also it will function back to warm. There is no white smoke, no fluid in the oil. No sign of oil or leaks from the spark plugs.Things that I have done, changed the thermostat, new radiator cap, radiator flush and new water pump, radiator had been burbed. After doing all this, the car still over heats,when the gage is running high, I can hear again the coolant bubbling in the engine. When the car is running very hot near the red line, the car radiator cap shows steam and coolant bubbling back into the reseviour. I know that a pressure test is needed but has anyone had or seen these symptoms and could this very well be a blow head gasket? Letting only combustion into the coolant, which is causing the over heating? and loss of warm air in the cabin? Also the car is running great! No signs of any trouble at all. No rough idle or running.

I recently had my timing belt and water pump replaced. Also, my cylinder head had a valve job done.

The coolant level in my reservoir doesn't seem to move. It always feels cold. The upper radiator hose gets hot. The lower hose is less hot, but it is hot. I tried squeezing the upper hose to see if I could feel flow, but it was too hard to squeeze closed enough to tell.

Took off the radiator cap and saw some flecks of what looks and feels like black silicone sealant floating around at the top.

The car doesn't overheat. It does feel like it is idling a little rough.

How can I tell if the water pump is working properly and if there are no obstructions in my cooling system? Would it cause my rough idle?

Thanks

Hello everyone! needs some help with my 99 elantra 2.0. It has 196,000 on it, w/ 5 speed. It loses power past 40 mph for a short time, but never gives a code. It idles fine. I have replaced the fuel pump relay, filter, fuel pump, TPS, crankshaft sensor, pvc, checked plugs, wires, and replaced the fuel pressure regulator. After chasing my tail I toke it in to the dealer with no luck. It first started on the highway going 70mph and just loses power and then gains it back. The exhaust doesn't smell and have taken it to a muffler shop, thinking convertor. I've read through the internet with nothing else to do. Please help!

Reading, What are they telling me?
Abslt TPS% 37.2 17.2 17.6 10.5 16.8 20.7 20.7 12.9 19.2 16 11.7 18.4 16.8 15.2 15.2
Eng. Speed rpm 1960 2000 1880 2080 2080 2040 2080 2120 2120 2200 2240 2280 2280 2160 2320
Calc load % 25.8 9 9.8 4.7 606 15.6 13.7 6.6 12.9 7.8 4.7 11.7 7.8 6.6 7.8
MAF flow gr/c 28.87 10.64 11.37 5.86 8.96 18.41 13.61 7.84 14.63 9.31 6.19 14.91 9.38 8.75 9.17
collant iat F 188 188 188 188 188 188 188 188 188 188 188 188 188 188 188
IAT f 96 98 98 98 96 96 96 96 96 96 98 96 96 96 96
Ign. Advance 10.5 33.5 8.8 37.5 36.5 23 32 37.5 33 38 38 32 38 38 39
Short Term Fuel Trim bank 1 -2.2 0.7 2.3 -6.3 3.1 2.3 -1 -0.46 3.1 -2.2 3.1 2.3 1.5 -2.2 1.5
Long Term ftrm1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1
Veh speed mph 124 98 91 96 98 66 87 91 77 75 68 70 62 75 62
fuel sys 1 clsd clsd
fuel sys 2 n/a
O2s11 0.25 0.735 0.805 0.74 0.56 0.13 0.1 0.095 0.76 0.47 0.135 0.74 0.205 0.11 0.13
st ftrm11 -1 2.3 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.8 0.7 0.8 -3.4 -8 8.5 1.5 1.5 3.1 3.1
o2s12 0.64 0.69 0.69 0.375 0.63 0.64 0.75 0.59 0.75 0.775 0.205 0.745 0.66 0.63 0.605
obd2 ca

Hey all,

I'm looking to fit a body kit to a 2000 model J3 Lantra sedan and am trying to find out what body kits are available. So far I've found one on Jetspeed.com

[attachmentid=5955]
[attachmentid=5956]

http://jetspeed.com.au/

.....and one on carmate.com.

[attachmentid=5957]
[attachmentid=5958]

http://carmate.com/display_products.php?ca...ra&year=1999-up

After closer inspection though I realised that they are actually the same kit. Does anybody know of any other kits around? I've done a fair bit of searching and am yet to find one.

Thanks
JonBOY

Hello everyone I am new to the forum and am desperate for an answer. I have a 99 Elantra and will not start and does not get fuel when the ignition is on. However, when I turn the key off the fuel pump begins to run. Nay help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi All,

Right, just bought this car from eBay. I knew full well that it wouldnt drive as it had a fault.

The thing is i cant understand it. We had thoughts at first it might of been the clutch, but why would it be if it goes into reverse with no problems?

When we put it into Drive, 2nd or Low it is as if it is in Neutral??!!

When we put it into Reverse it shifts and we can drive it ok (backwards!!)

Checked the fluid, its upto the top of the cold mark and when hot it is at the top of the hot mark.

The fluid is a funny brown colour, but it doesnt smell burnt.

Unsure when last replaced. Car is at 93k. No previous service receipts...

Should the fluid be pink? Because im sure you can buy some brown fluids over here.

Would a fluid issue cause the car to not go into drive?

Any ideas/tips would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

the tranny is starting to slip, didnt change the tranny fluid in 40,000 miles. if i drain the fluid and fill it back, will it help?

the car has no injector pulse its firing but wont start i put noid light on it and it dont pulse when keys on one side of ijector is hot does anyone have a idea

Getting ready to replace the front disc brakes on my 1997 Elantra. Will be putting on all new rotors and calipers. Have never done this before; hoping it is fairly straightforward. Any nuisances unique to this model that I should be aware of? Any specialized tools? Thanks!

I have a 1997 Elantra which was given to me and is my first Hyundai. The original tranny would slip out of gear when driving so I purchased a replacement tranny and installed it. I have done successful tranny replacements before (2 others in the past 18 months) but this one is not working. Once installed I dropped the pan, changed the filter and filled with fresh fluid. I used Valvoline Max Life which claims to meet the SPlll specification. When I put the car in gear it doesn't even try to move. No error lights, no other unusual noises it just doesn't move. Doesn't even make a sound when you put it in gear like it's trying to engage. Could it be the fluid I used or is there something else I should be looking at? Any help or advice is appreciated.

Thanks

hey guys i was wondering if you could help me out with my car i was driving it today and went to turn around in a driveway and when i went to shift to drive id did nothing low 2nd or drive nothing nada! but it does have reverse so i had to drive backwards all the way back to my house! so what im wondering is is there some kind of relay or fuse for the tranny because if you roll down a hill backwards and put it into drive without touching the gas the front tires will lock up and hold the car on the hill but once you just barely touch the gas it just rolls freely backwards let of the gas and it locks up that is the only reason that makes me think its not blown also the fact that i was just turning around when it stopped working

I have a 1997 Hyundai Elantra with 110,000 miles on the motor and 210,000 miles on the shell. It is idling rough, losing power during acceleration, and even stalling. The fuel pressure is fine. The timing is fine. The mass air flow sensor is fine. There is one check engine code which has shown for as long as I have owned the vehicle (3+ years). It states that there is a problem with the evaporation emission vapor. Likewise, there is also a recall on the vehicle having to do with this.

Recall Summary:
The evaporative emission control systems can apply excessive vacuum to the fuel tanks during the canister purge cycle. If excessive vacuum is applied minor fuel tank distortion can result. A small crack could develop on the upper fuel tank surface. The check engine light would illuminate and in some cases, the vehicle driver may notice a gasoline odor.
s
'They' say the fuel pressure is fine, but I get the sneaking suspicion that my fuel tank is fouled up. The problems I am having started on a day when I put fuel in my tank. Could this be causing my problems?

I found the definitive brake bleeding sequence for a LH drive car. RH drive car is naturally a mirror image, so the same terms w/sequence apply. Also, it applies for both regular and ABS brakes. The same sequence probably applies to other models, but I have no information. It's:

Passenger Rear
Driver Front
Driver Rear
Passenger Front

So I have a PO446 code on my car - "Evap emiision system vent control circuit".

Changed the obvious thing 1st - gas cap - but still have the problem. I've done some research online, but I'm a bit confused by how many things it could be. Other symptoms are that the car sometimes struggles to start after refuelling and also sometimes when refuelling the gas pump cuts out early, as if the tank is already full. The check engine light has been on for 2 weeks now, but went off once for a day a while ago. The car drives perfectly though.

Is the PCV valve the same thing as the purge valve?

Has anyone had any experience with this?

Thanks in advance!

I have a 2000 Hyundai Lantra and have lost the CD Player/Radio security code. Recently I had a battery changed and have not been able to get the CD player working again. I havent even attempted to 'guess' the code as I assume it will lock or something similar after a few attempts. I spoke with a Hyundai dealership and the cost is extra ordinary to have the system re-configured (IE Call head office and get the code Ha, Ha). Any one know if there is a Do It Yourself or Generic code that will work???

As fate would have it, I just finished replacing the brakes on my 97 Elantra and now I think my fuel pump is going out on me. It is idling rough and threatening to stall almost every time I accelerate. Does anyone know where the fuel pump is located on this vehicle? Is it difficult to replace?

Thankss

Hey everyone - I just replaced the brake calipers on my 97 Elantra. Now my brake pedal goes just about all the way to the floor before it meets any resistance. However, even with the pedal pressed firmly down, the car has a hard time stopping. Did I not bleed the brakes correctly? There is no brake fluid at all coming out of the bleeder valve when I pump the brakes. Any idea what's going on? Thanks!

I have a spare alternator which I'd like to try to repair. It is manufactured by Valeo. Is there a rebuild kit or are there universal parts to buy separately?

I twisted the end of the fuel line off at the filter inlet while trying to break the filter free. I'm going to try to repair using a short piece of 5/16" brake line, 14mm x 1.5mm thread flare nut and a compression union.

What is the angle of the flare that goes into the filter? SAE 45? AN 37? If I can't get brake line with the correct flare end, I will have to buy or rent a tool or find a shop to make it for me.

Is there a better way to do this fix other than replacing the line as a whole?

Thanks


Update 1:

Bought 60" of brake line and compression fittings from AutoZone for $10. Showed the line and my filter to a couple mechanics and they said the flares matched up okay so I'll start my repair project tomorrow. The brake line says "US Thread/Standard Flare." The ends are double flared. The flare nuts that come with it won't fit the filter. I'll try cleaning up and reusing the old one. Tonight I'll try cutting and bending some of the spare line.

Dorman makes a fuel line repair kit (part# 800156) which is a special order item at AutoZone. They sell it for about $15 bucks and it comes with the 14mm fitting. If it was in-store or I had the time to wait for it if I ordered one, I probably would have bought it.

Update 2:

Well, couldn't get my mini pipe cutter around a perfectly straight area of line when I cut out the twisted part. There was a really slight bend where I managed to cut it off. When I tried to put the compression fitting on, it wouldn't fit because of it. So... went back to AutoZone, got some fuel injector hose and 4 hose bands. Then I cut about 3" of brake line, slipped the nut on, slipped 6" of hose on, double clamped each end then installed the filter. Once everything was connected, the car started up after a few tries. No leaks

The idle seems much smoother now. The gas that came out of the old filter looked dark and there were particles in it.

Hello people

Hoping you can help! For the last year (ish) my Hyundai Lantra Sportwagon (1996) has a very weird problem that NO mechanic has been able to find.

It kinda chugs/coughs sometimes. It's usually when the car is warmer, not so much in the mornings but on the way home from work. It's like it can't find the gear... but it's a manual. I'll put my foot down on the accelarator and it won't speed up for a couple of seconds and then it 'jumps' into it... but then also this same kinda of chugging can happen with no foot on the accelator at 80km or more. If I put the clutch in - it stops and I usually ease it out a little to stop it.

Anyway - I've taken it to two mechanics and they can't replicate the chugging so I don't think they believe me.

I've just dropped it off this morning he's called to say he can't replicate it but by the way, it needs a $500 service to fix some other stuff. Hmmmmm.

SO frustrating.

Any ideas ? OH and also - the 'Check Engine' light comes on - just about everytime I drive it. It's done this for a while. TOok it to the mechanic a while ago and he replaced some leads... something to do with exhaust probs. Seem to fix that for a while but now it's back.

I'm just about ready to throw this car over a cliff. It's probably only worth $3500 but I can't really afford to buy a new one.

Help would be MUCH appreciated.

Happy Monday.
vrtjane

I just bought a 96 Elantra with 56k on it. I filled it up with gas and had to grind & grind the starter while pumping the gas pedal to get started. Once it started I had to keep it reving pretty high just to keep running. After driving about a mile everything straightened out and it has been running well ever since. If when close to empty I just add a few gallons it starts with no problem and runs fine. Anybody else ever had this problem? I guess this is why the last owner sold it. The beer truck driver that previously owned it did very little maintainence on it. After purchasing it I changed the engine & auto-trans oil & filter,cleaned the battery terminals and it runs very well. I really like this Elantra and would like to have it run after a fill up. Any Ideas?

P.S. What is the secret for signing into hmaservice.com. I have mozilla and it wont let me register. I keeps telling me I have to read agreement. Ok I click that and get a white page with nothing! HELP!

2000 Elantra - the brake pedal goes almost to the floor before the brakes start to work. The car will stop itself, but if I had to stop quickly, I would run into stuff.

Here's what I have done so far:
Bled the entire system. The fluid was kind of dirty looking.
Replaced the master cylinder, bench bled it before installing.
Bled the entire system after installing the MC.
Found a problem with the right rear - the self-adjuster wasn't working, so the R/R brake wasn't doing its part. Cleaned it up, and it works ok now.

There are no leaks, the pedal stays steady when you hold it down, and doesn't 'leak down'. If you pump the pedal with the car off, it stays at about 3/4 up. When you start it, the pedal will travel almost to the floor before the brakes start to engage.

What else can I check?

Thanks in advance!

Jack

Hello, I'm hoping that someone here can help me out...

I have a 2000 Hyundai Elantra with about 152,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago, my check engine light came on, but nothing happened and it ended up going away itself. About a week after that, it stalled at a stop, but turned back on. For awhile I have felt like the car was acting a little sluggish.

Last week the car died on me while slowing down to make a turn so that I could cross two lanes of oncoming traffic. When I began to slow down, it cut out. I waited for awhile, turned it back on, and it seemed safe to drive the short distance home. It cut out after about one mile going around 40mph. I pressed the gas pedal to the floor and nothing happened at all...then the engine died. It ended up restarting later, but kept stalling every so often so I had it towed to my boyfriend's house.

At his house he checked codes and it came up with random cylinder misfire and then a bad crankshaft position sensor. He tested the resistance on these parts and they were indeed bad. So, we replace these parts, but we still have a cylinder misfire code being pulled. We replaced the spark plugs and wires, but it still pulls a code-- now for an ignition coil. So, we replace that...still, the check engine light comes on every time we clear it when we hit about 55mph, but you cannot feel it misfire at all. The stalling, however, has stopped.


We eventually gave up and decided to take it to the dealer to run a diagnostic, who is keeping it overnight to run more tests. The mechanic says he believes that we just need to replace our aftermarket sparkplug wires from Autozone with Hyundai parts (says the check engine light didn't come on running with Hyundai parts), but I'm afraid it may be the computer or something more serious.

Has anyone had a similar problem? I am at my wit's end here. I've been using Durlast wires for years and never had a problem.

When i put on the heater it starts off hot then gets cold after a few seconds, i flushed the antifreeze, the coolant temperature sensor works since the fan comes on on and off, I changed the hoses going to the heater core,checked the wire that open and closes the door behind the dash, and running out of options. Is it the heater core needs changing? if yes does anyone have a photo of it? i see one on ebay, but never took a look at mine.

Okay, I JUST purchased a 2000 Elantra GLS with 77,000 miles for my girlfriend to drive for $1400. When I was checking the car out I noticed that the clutch caught VERY high. I assumed that since the slave cylinder was recently replaced that the clutch pedal just needed some adjustment for free play (I had an 95 accent that had the same feeling clutch and was remedied in this way).

No matter how I adjust this clutch pedal via the master cylinder rod, I am entirely unable to change the catch point of the clutch! I cannot achieve the desired 1/2 inch of freeplay up top! Every manual I've ever driven I was able to acheive freeplay. Is there something different about this car? Any tips?

Hi,

My wife has an '01 Elantra with 78k on it. It keeps on having a thumping noise coming from the front end (drivers side). Mainly at highway speeds (50-65mph).
So far we've replaced the wheel bearing, and the brake caliper and pads (master cylinder locked up cause it was faulty). I did try a new drive shaft, and it did the same thing.

When the master cylinder locked up, could it have slightly warped the rotor? (she did drive it about 5 blocks with faulty cylinder) Would this cause the thumping noise in question? My impression about a warped rotor was that it affected braking, i.e. pedal moving up and down when braking. Would a warped rotor cause a thumping noise at highway speeds?

I am at a loss here. I don't know what else to do.
Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have a '99 Elantra 2.0, 5 speed. We bought it a few weeks ago with 110k on it. It ran great and I changed the oil in it and looked it over, then it was driven for less than 48 hours by an inexperienced 5 speed driver. Details are fuzzy on what happened, but he hit/ran over something and tried to drive home but didn't make it.

When I got to the car, the crankshaft position sensor was hanging out of the block with a pit in it from being knocked out from the inside. I replced the sensor and the car still had no spark or fuel. When I stuck my finger in the CKP hole, I found that the gear that the sensor counts spins free on the crank.

All 4 cyclinders still cycle with compression, the valve train is intact, and the starter spins it, so I know the crank isn't broken off completely. Does anyone know how this gear is put on the crank? Will I have to replace the whole crank or can I replace the gear or maybe even just a key? Has anyone ever heard of this happening on any car?

Thanks

ok so i just bought a 2000 elentre gls 4 door it has the 2.0 dohc in it and ive worked on cars before and when i started it up it didnt rev past 3200 - 3500 rpms so i asked the lady if she had a tune up recently she said yes thats why shes selling it beacuse she just changed the spark plugs and wires and it was running fine before she did it then it started acting like it did... it doesnt go over 25 mph and wont rev past 3500 rpms in nutural... so i printed out the fireing order and it says 1-2-3-4 and the coil fire rate goes 1-4-3-2 so i hook up 1-1 2-2 3-3 4-4 in the order of the coil and it still doesnt do anything... after trying to drive it home for 6 hours going 20 mph it finnaly did somthing bad and stoped working it will turn on and idle fine if the ac isnt on and if i put it in drive it will move at idle speed but if i even think about putting my foot on the gas it will start bogging out it wont turn off or die it just makes the rpm go down like crazy to around 200 maybe 400 even if i put my foot just on the gas without pressing it... any one know whats going on??

So I buy the Haynes manual, and it says"due to the complexity and special tools required, this is best left to a professional mechanic".
what is that all about??? anyhow..the HMaservice website is pathetic at best, and doesnt work half the time.
so does anyone have a step by step and diagram for this procedure, and on a 2000 elantra.
I have the bearing, and am planning on tackling this job on Friday. But don't really just want to figure it out as i go..I have a buddy that owns a machine shop, so the pressing on of the new bearing isnt a problem.
thanks guys

I have a 2000 elantra when i was driving it on the highway the car lost power and died. We replaced the battery and the car still wouldnt start, so we took the starter out and took it to have it tested it was good. the next thing we noticed was that the fuel pump wasnt engaging so we checked the fuel relay switch and it was good. The next thing we did was replace the fuel filter and the fuel pump the car still wont start. When you have the key in the on position the fuel pump doesnt come on but when you turn the key over to stat the car the fuel pump comes on but the car still wont start. The next thing we checked was the crankshaft position sensor and it was to the specifications. We have also checked the fuses and they are all good. We checked for spark and fuel and that seems to be okay.

Hello, my 97 Elantra won't start. I have a manual transmisson and I have to depress the clutch in order to start it.

The battery is brand new, and lights/etc all work. It happened right after work and I was so frustrated that I began to just push in the clutch repeatedly and I got it to start! What could be wrong? Is there some kind of switch between the clutch and starter?
Thanks!

2000 Elantra was driving around 45mph when it shut off, refused to start again. Getting the above error codes. Engine will crank, sometimes fire, but will not run.

Any ideas about what's going on here???

Thanks!

Hi all,

I'm here at my girlfriend's house and it seems that the A/C compressor on her '99 Elantra has seized.

She is able to get a junkyard replacement for $75, which seems reasonable. I have a reasonable amount of tools with me, and she knows how to charge the system with the store-bought cans of 134a, so that's not a problem.

What I seek is as much advice about this project as I can get before undertaking. I'll have one full day to do this, but that's it -- so I want to eliminate as much guesswork as I can.

Occasionally I've found service manuals online for other cars, but I haven't found one yet for this car. Anyone have any leads?

Thank you all very much for your help.

Murph

Is it dangerous to drive my 97 Elantra with Cylinder misfire code? P0300,P0301 and P0302. Also P0446. It does have P0442 which is the filler neck on my gas tank which will be repaired this coming weekend.
The car is stalling when idling in park.
When it happened today, I did hear a loud knocking sound for about a minute. Restarted the car fine and it went away.
Thanks

hi, i'v just bought a 99 lantre & the remote locking/alarm has suddenly stopped working. the key fob lights up still & the dash makes a couple of bleeps after i turn the ignition on or off (i dont actually know what that is but guess its to do with th imobiliser). have i done something wrong like leaving the car unlocked? seems weird that it was fine.
cheers

Hi all,

as stated in an earlier thread I have just inherrited a 2000 Elanta GLS

Problem is the remote locking is not working. I have changed the batteries a couple of times with no luck.

I can lock the car with the key however this disables the alarm

Any suggestions?

Hi, I have a 2000 Elantra Wagon, bought it used a year or so ago, i replaced the battery today and now the car wont start and a small red light on top of the steering column lit up. This light has never been on before. I have no idea what it is or what it means, can anyone tell me?

Whenever I start my car it will make a whine/screeching noise for a few seconds. And for the first five minutes of driving, when i turn it makes the same noise. I asked a friend of mine and he said the power steering belt was too tight/loose. But I don't understand how it could all of a sudden become tighter/looser.

Hi all. Yesterday my family's 2000 Elantra Wagon GLS was rear-ended by a Corolla in Middletown Township. Our car's rear bumper cover is dented, and came loose on the passenger side, and something also happened to the exhaust, as the car now sounds like a modified Integ- sorry Tiburon. (I'm open to both H brands as you'll find out.) Corolla received more damage but, that's a different story.

Assuming the insurance decides not to pay (seems very likely!), I need to know which bumper covers will fit our car. Does the wagon have a specific rear bumper cover, or can an Elantra sedan be used for a donor? Tried searching and Googling this but came up short.

Thanks for any help,
Ian A.