I've read about people that have done this swap and I've been kinda interested in doing it to my '94 elantra. Yesterday I was smoked by a guy that owns a tibby (no idea year/engine) and now I'm alot more interested in doing it. It was just the 3rd of 4th time he's passed me at the same exact spot and yesterday when he tried it I decided I would at least see what my car could do (I knew I'd lose, I just had to find out how badly).
What are the most common parts needed to do a succfull swap? I'm thinking of getting the engine,tranny and suspension upgraded/swaped (If nothing else just the suspension). It'll be awile before I can actually afford to do it but I like to gain as much knowledge about something before doing it. I know a junk yard where I could get a mitsu eclipse (I think its between 91-95, I'll have to recheck this spring if someone thinks it's got useable parts). It's been sitting on sand and when I saw it last no grass had grown to rot anything out. The engine didn't appear to be turbo and it had more then double my current milege on it (180k+ one the eclipse vs 87k me). Are there any parts I could remove from that and put on my car (other then the nice shift knob I already took)? Any suggestions on where to go to get parts?

I have a Hyundai Lantra 1.5i -93. Since two days, it has a new feature: a radiator fan which is always running. This obviously does the battery no good. The only way to get it to stop is to pull the plug or disconnect the battery.

The relay clicks when the power is turned back on. I don't know if that means anything. The way I see it, it can either be the thermoswitch or the relay. Any thoughts or anyone who has experienced similar problems?

Are these parts easy to change yourself? How expensive should they be? Is there a good description of the system somewhere, preferably complete with teardown instruction?

This is an awesome forum if you happen to own a Hyundai which is bordering on being somewhat... ahem... chronologically challenged.

Cheers,
Fred

Hey, I am in desperate need of help trying to find this oil filter housing/bracket for a 92 hyundai elantra. I am not having luck finding any parts around here and am trying to see if there are any other cars that use the same exact bracket. I have found many similar Mitsubishi ones, but none are correct, the 4g64 and 4g63 ones are close, but will not work.



I pieced the pictured one back together just to get an idea of how it looked like exactly.

Does anyone know why the motor constantly turns off and needs to be restarted when the engine is cold? When the motor is warm, it runs perfectly.

What procedure is involved in rectifying this problem?

After reading some comments within this forum for replacing wheel studs from other Hyundai vehicles other than Lantras, I thought it was going to be easy to replace the damaged front wheel studs on my Hyundai Lantra (built Feb 1995 model- does this mean that the vehicle is a J1 series?).

However, after attempting to remove the damaged studs, I noticed that there was not enough clearance behind the stud plate for the studs to come out after the disc plate was detached from it. It appears that it may be necessary to remove the entire hub and disc plate to replace the studs on this vehicle. Could someone please confirm this procedure before I go to the trouble of hiring a costly press or engaging a mechanic?

Alternatively, could someone please advise of a more simpler process for removing damaged front wheel studs from a 1995 Hyundai Lantra (known as Elantra in some countries outside Australia)?

Could someone also recommend a free or cheap online workshop manual for this vehicle?

I know how to replace the starter, i.e. disconnect battery, unbolt wires and starter motor, etc. but what I can't figure out from looking at it is: How do you actually get the starter motor out? It looks like the motor is directly under the intake manifold - does the manifold have to come off? It doesn't look like there's enough room to squeeze the starter motor out from up top, yet when I jacked the car up it doesn't look like there's enough room to get it out from underneath either.

Has anyone done this job before? Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

hey hey check out my car and make some comments!! good or bad. thanks in advance.
peace









you like that!! haha custom t-shirt!!

Problem:Idle timing very jumpy, varies +-5 degrees or more at idle with no real pattern.
Timing solid as a rock if timing adjust terminal grounded (as when setting timing
per the official manual) Is this normal for this engine? As the gas pedal is depressed, the jitter gets less and less-seems totally smooth at 2000+ RPM, no load.
Tested and OK:Timing belt(new), TDC/cam sensor, MAF output quite stable at 35 Hz(idle), ignition, spark wires and plugs.

Ideas? Hints? Tips? I'm all ears!

My car quit the other day, it's now in the shop (1995 Elantra GLS). The mechanic said that the car was worked on previous to me - when I bought the car, it had 67,000 miles.

He went on to say that the timing belt was broken, that the head would need to be taken off and sent to a third party for a valve job. The previous owner had some work done to the car, maybe even replaced the timing belt, since he said it looked to be in good shape. He performed a compression test, and air came out of the exhaust pipe. So a valve job is in order.

Notes:

1) Entire job to date will be $1,200-1,500.
2) Can just the bent valves be repaired, or will all of the valves be bent?
3) Would it be cheaper to hunt up a used engine, and just replace the engine?
4) Are there other options available?
5) Car was bought second hand at a used car shop. Ran great, A/C was great, appeared to be a great car for the money versus the mileage. Ran it through a VIN check online, and all of the history looked good.
6) Any help would be appreciated. ( I can change oil, water pumps, brakes, etc., but this is out of my league!)

yo im new here wassup all gots me a turbo elantra i did the swap myself almost finished but ill post pics soon peace!!

To the point, my ignition filter is broken, and has been for some time is seems.
It is a small black box 1"x1/2" with 2 short wires and a connector; probably on Elantras to 1995, and maybe other Hyundai cars the same vintage.
(For sure all 1.6 DOHC engines)
It is simply a resistor(across the 2 leads) and a capacitor (from the output lead to the case) and is bolted to the top upper right of the intake manifold, right over and in back of the coil packs. If simply unplugged, the auto trans will not go into lock-up at all;but I think it messes up the signal to the cpu too, as my car has a wildly varying idle timing of some 10 degrees or more even with it connected.
Ignition pulses from the ignition coil are sent to the cpu for monitoring; this filter also connects to the same line with it's output feeding the Automatic transmission controller, the tach, and the cruise control. The resistor on mine is(was!) 2.2K, the cap is open. Can someone out there with a capacitance meter simply un-plug thier filter (it does NOT have to be unbolted) and measure it from the case to the output lead(farthest back)??? I have played with the value with a dec-box; values of .001uf to .1uf may be there. I'd feel better about hacking it if I knew what it was supposed to be!! I have downloaded schematics and none show the values inside...
Barring that, I may just leave it hacked! Can I still get a new one anywhere?
I would be very grateful, and you would have the satisfaction of helping me, a lowly newbie.....this part may be more important than it looks...

Lightman

Dispite being OBD1, and only having 1 data pin, it seems you can read out all sorts of cool things out of these cars with the official Hyundai scan tool. Barring that, has anyone figured out the code so a PC can read the TCU/ECU? Even better, modify the program?!

Lightman

Hi! I am new to this group, and thought I'd start off with some prevention tips-maybe this will solve some problems for you.

1:disconnect the throttle body heater (coolant loop) or at the very least, check the gasket on the bottom where the idle control motor is. My car developed quite a leak in there, and was putting a good amount of coolant into the intake manifold.
(I have also heard of the idle stepper motor being damged by this;and if it shorts, it can take out the CPU as well!!) If your coolant level has to be topped up often (can't see fluid in radiator after a week) this may be your problem. Even worse, the coolant messes up the O2 sensor really bad, and made the car power 'pulse' and be weak going up hills. I replaced that too.

I connected the in and out tubes together and put a ball bearing in there to seal it off-works great! Be aware if you DO cut coolant flow to the throttle body, you must also seal off the TB cold-air bypass valve too, the idle will run really high if you don't. I used some rubber, and made my own gasket with that area covered.

2:Clean your MAF sensor! I was getting a VERY erratic, unstable signal out of mine, even at idle-it was often very bouncy and unstable. There are really only 3 things to clean-looking into the main measurement tube, there is a bar going across with a triangular shape, and 2 circular things on both sides farther down. A bit of alcohol and Q-tips works great, clean the surfaces on all 3 things. I also took the trouble of cleaning the honeycomb grid (very black) and drilling out 6 holes in it that were covered with glue from the factory! (More flow) Runs much better!

3:Check your PCV valve! My engine seems to have a good bit of blow-by, and it gums up a lot with gooey oil. This can amount to a vaccum leak, making idle poor.

4:Remove and clean your EGR valve! (Right below the TB, easy to get at) Mine was just packed with soot, and the valve was not seating right. Again, vaccum leak...

5:If you have an Elantra with the original Engine computer still working, PULL IT OUT and check it-I found out (too late) that these comps have 3 caps in them that go bad, leak all over, and destroy the unit. Do a search on it. They are easy to change with care+caught early enough. My car just suddenly died one day, NO warning! It's the 3 large caps in the center...

6:Make sure cooling system works well. My car used to ping like crazy after driving it for 30 min or so, even in 1st gear up a slight grade. (90 Deg temps outside) The temp gauge reading was normal, but/and the electric cooling fan wasn't coming on. For a while, I even disabled the AC by pulling the wire at the clutch-so I could force the fans on with the AC button. I think the main problem with poor flow and blocked passages around the heads. It's fine now, after a few good flushes (and a water pump)

7:If you or a service station ever takes off the upper timing belt cover (the right top of engine), be aware! there are 3 rubber pieces that fit into it for sealing (not really needed!) They turn hard as rock, get loose, and fall out! I don't know if they can fall out while the cover is ON, but 1 fell out into the pulleys(!!) When I took the cover off myself. I was able to fish it out (it got stuck on the exhaust timing belt pulley-lucky it didn't go to the bottom!) BTW, the other 2 pieces were already gone...heaven knows if they are down there or what!!

8:If the left side of your engine leaks oil a lot (all over the transmission and wiring-yuk!) Check this: take off the TDC sensor (the disc on the left of the engine) pull it out (note position of shaft!) And look at the o-ring; mine was hard as rock, and letting oil inside seep past and dribble down the engine. Replace it (has to be hi-temp) Engine timing does have to be set afterwards!

Well, that's all for now. I will post with more as I come up with them!

(why Lightman? I will post pictures soon!)
My car still runs great-the transmission sticks a bit going out of 1st gear once or twice when cold-that's the only real problem!)

How do you change the preset rado stations in this crazy radio unit? I once had one changed but I have no idea how I did it, it just decided to let me set one station to a favorite button. Only 2/6 of the default stations are actually used where I am and the two that are, don't play what I want to listen to. I checked hmaservice.com but get no results on the use of the radio. I believe the radio is a model 820

I have a 1995 Hyundai Elantra that had its motor replaced with a 1996 elantra motor from the opposite side of the country. The car was west coast made and the engine was east coast or vice versa, cant remember. My father and I have done extensive testing on my Elantra and via experimentation have deduced that when the alternator is charging the battery, it causes the belt to squeal. Everytime we start the car, it squeals like **** for about 30 secs, then quits and runs relatively fine. However, when more electrical devices, i.e. an amplifier, A/C, defroster, and headlights are turned on, the belt begins to squeal again. My father looked up in a manual that the battery size can change how much the alternator works at charging the battery, so we reduced battery size from 700 cold amps to 500 cold amps and it still squealed. Yet we tried using a battery from our lawn mower which was 350 cold amps and it STILL squealed. The recommended battery size for the car was 400 cold amps but it seems that this does not solve the problem. The only true fact we have is that the less elecrical devices that are using battery power, the less the belt squeals. With NO electric devices on at all, the belt only squirks for a half a second, but continues to squeal when more battery power is drawn. Clearly the alternator's load on the belt is causing it to squeal, but the alternator is brand new and does not squeal whatsoever when the electrical plug is unplugged from the alternator with the belt still attached. Any help would be very appreciated as we have been battling this for a couple of years now. Thanks.

Hi all;

I recently had an event with my timing belt which resulted in a bent valve. The timing belt is fixed, the car starts and runs, but only runs on 3 cylinders. Do not yet know if it'll drive.

My mechanic told me to fix the valve they'd need to shave the head, etc. ... for $1,000. That's what I paid for the car. Is it necessary to pay 1K to get it running right again? How hard (or is it possible) would it be to do this myself? I might just have to buy another car.

Thank you for any info...

-Thomas

I have a -93 Hyundai Lantra, German sold with a Pony 1.5i engine. Yesterday, slowing down in 5th uphill while behind a slow car in the overtaking lane and then feeding in throttle again, the engine started running rough. It feels as if it is not firing on all cylinders. There’s a significant power loss and a whurring sound (for lack of a better description). The car actually shudders.

The engine is running smooth as ever as long as I avoid loading it in high revs. Under 3000 rpm in 4th I can still use a lot of power (or at least as much as the engine is normally capable of, “a lot” may not be the right word here). In 5th, I feel it coming on lower, perhaps already at 2600 rpm. I was unable to feel the problem in 3rd gear. This is on flat ground, uphill of course makes it worse.

Any ideas on what could be the cause?

I’m starting to feel guilty about only posting in these forums when I’m in trouble. If any of the local Hyundai helpers ever need help within my area of not-quite-as-ineptness (I was going to write ‘expertise’, but I think I have some way to go there), i e aircraft, old Suzuki bikes and Husqvarna military bikes, let me know...

Regards,
Fred

Hey guys. I'm having a lot of trouble with my fuel gauge. It decides to tell me my tank is completely empty, when it's clearly not, sometimes suddenly dropping from 1/4 full or higher to BELOW empty, and then rising at random intervals.
Most of the time it just repeats this process, but the fuel warning light never comes on, so therefore I know I have petrol in my tank.

I'm from Australia so I'm not sure if there's any difference in the European models, but can anyone help me figure out or fix this problem?

Is there anyone else out there from Australia? Because this isn't the only problem i'm having. I'm experiencing the 2nd-3rd gearbox crunch aswell as the squealing fan belt on start up.

So if anyone knows anywhere local where I can find either cheap parts or a cheap fix, that'd be much appreciated as funds are VERY limited at the moment.

Thanks guys,
Brea.

My 1995 Elantra 1.8 with auto trans has 102K miles on it. In 1st gear it is fairly smooth and powerful, however as soon as it gets into 2nd as well as 3rd and 4th gears, it starts pinging quite heavily in the lower RPM ranges if I step harder on the gas pedal. I mean, it can get REALLY LOUD at times and sounds like something is going to break, so I have no choice but to let up on the gas pedal. If I let up enough, the pinging can go away completely, but then the car is barely accelerating. And if I'm on a hill, I'll actually slow down and can't make it up the hill, unless I step harder on the gas but then the pinging starts again. If I step REALLY hard on the gas and downshift, the RPMs will go really high but the pinging goes away - at least until the transmission upshifts, at which point the problem starts all over again. Oh, and while the pinging is occurring, if I hold the gas pedal just right at the perfect RPM and speed combination (usually about 45 to 50 mph at approx. 2500 RPM (guessing due to no tach)), the car will start to misfire and kick/buck.

It is very tiring to nurse this car along as I drive. I'm sure this is not normal. I don't want to break anything - I know what pinging can do to an engine.

Plugs and wires are new and the plugs looked perfect when I pulled them earlier today. Any suggestions? Experts, please help!

Hey, im new here, just though I would share with you my Wide Body Elantra project. Any comments and crit would be great

You can find all the pics at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2049447/3

Hi all just bought a 91 Lantra and want to get it running before the turbo conversion

I have checked the computer and it looks like its been changed
it cranks over slowly with full charged battery

if anyone could send me a pic of the enginebay just to see if Im missing anything?

I have a relay on the firewall witch is not conected to anything and two loose wires?( its black and yellow relay)

I will be doing a compression test soon

Thanks
Travis
sivart1@optusnet.com.au

Hi Guys..... Anyone have any diagrams or drawings on how to repair a rear electric window on a Lantra 1.8cdi. The electrics are ok but its seems the window has come loose or something and I believe it has what they call a regulator assembly but as a complete hamfisted novice I would like to try to repair it myself. I looked at the door cover and took out two screws and nothing moved so I need mucho help with a plan or something on what I should be doing.

Codger from the UK

I have a 1995 Elantra SE 1.8l and have recently had the engine replaced after the timing belt broke on the original. Since the new installation (2nd hand engine), the check engine light has been coming off and on. I took it to the dealer and it is coming up as the Intake air temperature sensor. This mass air sensor is very expensive and I was wondering if there is anything I should check into first....ie, hoses, etc. The fuel injection on this new engine is not the one from my original and the check engine light never came on before. Any suggestions?

Hey everyone,

Friend of mine drives a 1994 Lantra and the car has got a huge scrath on his front bumper. I want to respray it but I cannot read the tag in the engine bay, its damaged, don't know how but it is... Does anyone happen to know the colorcode for a bright silver Lantra/Elantra? I guess it's MW but I'm not sure...

Thanx!!!

I live in California, yeah its tough to pass smog over here with our laws. My car has sat around for a long time because no one had been driving it as a primary car since like late 2002. Well anyways, we tried to get the car smogged in 2003 and it didn't pass. What prevents a car from passing smog? There have been no modifications to this car at all, so it doesn't make sense to use for it to not pass smog now.

1993 Hyundai Elantra 1.8L

Hi all,

I've got a 1994 elantra 1.6 that runs ok when cold, I mean it idles great and goes great after a cold start but after ten minutes, the car sounds like there was water in the gas. I've checked the gas tank and it is clean! The exhuast was replaced completely including every part imagineable. The fule filter, spark plugs, and the spark wires were all replaced but after ten minutes (20km) the cars still starts to buck and hesitate. I've stripped the wire harness for the injectors and the wiring looks good. It obviously a heat related issue but where??? Even after it is heated up and starts to buck, it still idles good BUT as soon as I put it in gear - let the bucking begin!!!

So, where do I start to look???

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Cheers from the GWN (great white north - Canada)

Bob

I need to replace the rear bumper on my Elantra 1994 - what model years can fit? I believe a 95 will do the trick but what about a 92 or 93?

Thanx,

Bob

I have a 1995 Hyundai Elantra, 1.8L DOHC. Recently when you would start the car shorty after you took your foot of the gas, the car would stall. I have replaced the fuel injectors, used fuel injector cleaner, and checked all the spark plugs and wires. And still no positive result. I looked for a code scanner for 95' elantra but found none. I would like to know how to check the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). As I read in a couple places that some 95's have ODBII, does the 95' elantra fall in that category, or do I have to use the ODBI technique, and if so how do I use that technique. Thanks any help is appreciated.

Just bought this car with a slipped timing belt and rebuilt the engine so I have no idea how it shifted before.

After you start the car and accelerate it revs up pretty high and then shifts really rough into third. It will not shift out of third even at highway speeds. If you come to a stop it does not down shift and if you put the gear selector into Second it will down shift. But if you slow way down and put it in Low nothing happens.

I changed the transmission filter and the fluid level is good. Any ideas?

Thanks

Hi Im new and in the Netherlands too, although English, great site, I'm looking for assistance to have my exhaust looked at nr Eindhoven for a 92 Lantra. Seems I have a hole blowing in what I think is the front section near the engine, anyone got any ideas on price etc etc, looking forward to some help
J gull

Hi, I have this issue, on my elantra 1992 each time I am driving over a big hill o mountain I loose power of my car I mean, the car does not response or get to slow to climb is very difficult to go to high areas. is like the car doesnt like mountains, feels like the car doesnt have power, also I am not very sure if the adjusmet for car is the correct I mean the timming and everything, does anybody know how can adjust my car o I can go over hills and mountains...thans

The sticker on the driver door says to only put 175(185)/70(65)-r14 or T125/55-r15 tires on this car. What does the T125 mean (i'm thinking it means super low profile)? Also, will 195/70/R14 fit okay even though they are a size larger then the sticker says is acceptable? Would they even fit on stock rims? If they won't fit w/o modifications what would need to happen?

Hi
I have 1992 Elantra 1600 cc 116 bg
I love this car but I have problem with this car..I dont like this car's suspension system because when I turn to a curve with fast I'am losing my control so I mean I want to take car control How can I fix that problem.Can you say me?
Thank you friends......

My base model Elantra has all sorts of connectors under the hood that do not have matchs. The more I look under the hood the more I find, almost to the point of not wanting to look any more. What options were avaible for the 1994 models and are any of them add-able to the base model?

this site: "http://auto.consumerguide.com/Auto/Used/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/2178/act/usedcarreviewshowall/"
has only the year to year changes and not the changes to a particular trim level.

Hi
The brake lights come on when I use the clutch and w/o touching the brake pedel and the intensity of the light vary's slightly depending on how far the clutch is pushed in. Is this normal for this car?(I've had it about a month now and have only driven it 2-3 times at night so i haven't noticed this before now)
My headlights worked fine two days ago, both the high and low beams worked on both sides. Now (today) both highbeams still work but the left(driver) side low beam seams to be out. This is the first time i've had to replace headlights in a car so, is it normal for 1 low (or high) beam to go out? Did this come with Halogen lights and if not would the extra $4-5 be worth whatever improvement they are over the stock lights?

Just wondering if anyone out there has a comment to make regarding rear end loss on wet roads on an Elantra 5 door. Is it true that in wet conditions you can "loose" it? Do I have to change the tyres or something?
Someone must have had the same problem as me!!!

I had added a question to This thread in another section of the forum, but response has been slow, so...

My ‘94 Elantra does not have a tachometer and I’d like to have one. From what I read in the linked to thread, it appears as though the car may already be “prewired” for a tach. My question is this - If I go to the wrecking yard, what other years and models of Hyundais use an instrument cluster (with a tach) that'll fit and work properly in a ‘94 Elantra? It wouldn't matter to me if the layout of the cluster's dials and gauges was different, as long as it was "plug & play", so to speak. Suggestions would be much appreciated.