So i got my headlights back. I was under the impression they would be plug and go.

yea right...So I got the halo rings and a LED strip for the bottom.

I want the halo wired with my parking lights, and the led strip as my new blinker.

Ive seen some videos kind of get the general Idea, Find the parking light wire and tap in.

but how do I find wich one is the parking light?? And which one is the blinker??

Also what about the ground or negative wires???

I emailed KAI, and Importshark very recently, awaiting replies.

Where can I get this grille??? anyone????

I was thinking about painting my wheels and I wanted to see what it would look like so I made a photoshop file to see.

I thought some of you might get some use out of it. Unfortunately, the forum won't let me upload the file, so if you'd like it just send me a PM.

Cheers.

99 Hyundai Accent Gsi Neutral safety switch bypass!
The cost of the switch and labour to replace with Oem parts is the mane reason for this work around. This is meant to be a temporary fix untill the propper swith can be replaced! The oem switch alone with no labour is $ 167.00 canadian funds.

Verry limited tools or knowledge needed!
Material Needed
One 12 volt momentary switch, about 10 feet of 16 guage wire, one inline fuse and a few crimp on wire ends. Total cost not more then $27.00 canadian funds.
1. Remove air box for easy access
2. locate starter motor follow smaller of the 2 wires up to the under hood fuse box. ( black with white stripe)
3. Remove about .5 inch of the rubber shielding from the black and white wire
4. Attach 1 half of the 16 guage wire to the now exsposed wire.( for better conection sodier if possible)
5. Attach other half of the 16 guage wire to constant 12 volt source. Place the inline fuse in this wire.
6. Route both of the newly attached wires threw the fire wall into the drivers compartment.
7. Locate a place to drill and place the switch. I used one of the blanks in the panel with interior light dimmer switch.
8. Connect your switch to the two wires and mount.

You are done.
Keep in mind that you have now bypassed one of the safety features of the vehicle and it will now start in any gear. This can be left as a permineant fix. However it is my advice that this is used as a temporary solution to get you out of a bind and a propper switch should be installed as soon as one can be located and the cost covered!

Background: Has 78,000 miles, mostly used for commuting in typical Los Angeles traffics (mostly bumper to bumper) 80 miles/day driven by my wife, used as a family car in weekends (open freeways), we are original owner.

Rear Brakes:
At about 60K miles, wife said the rear brakes were making a screeching noise. The rear pads are original factory and were never replaced before. I checked and found rear pads are all worn out. I thought that was weird that rear pads would wear out quicker than the front ones, especially front heavy fwd car. Anyway, I installed new pads on the rear.

Front Brakes:
Just last weekend near at 78K miles, wife said there is a noise coming from the front whenever she steps on the brake like one time "clicking" noise. I thought it was weird that it was a clicking noise not like typical screeching noise. But I just "assumed" it was the front brake pads were worn out. I bought a set of new front pads and took out the old/orginal front pads. I could not believe it! The pads still had enough meat left, something like 3/8" or more, not sure about the exact thickness but the little metal "sensor" was far from coming in contact with the rotor which didn't have any scratch mark either. I think the original front pads could have exceeded 100K mile odometer reading on my 07 Sonata in the same driving condition - which is unheard of on typical commuting cars.

Questions:
1. What's your experience on original factory brake pad life/mileage on 4G Sonatas front & rear?
I know brake pads life heavily depend on driving condition/style, but I just want to know whether my case is normal or not.
2. What do you think of this "clicking" sound whenever stepping on the brake?
When first driving the car in the morning, no noise at all. About 10 minutes into driving, the noise starts but very fainlty. Then it gets slightly louder as time goes. It's jut a one time sound, not continous or repeating, per braking. I installed the new front brake pads anyway last night and have not driven the car so I don't know whether the noise is still there or not. But I would not be surprised if the noise is still there.

Chaz

Very easy install!!

I was going to do HIDs on my fogs, but I decided to just go with yellow tint. Just ordered a kit off of eBay. Should get it by Weds or Thurs.

Anyone have any advice or tips? Also, any interest in pictures from my install process and the finished install?

My 2000 Elantra has developed a case of bad outer CV joints on both sides. I've been advised to replace the half shafts instead of individual joints. That's fine, the half shafts are cheap enough. I'd like to do the job myself. Can someone educate me on the procedure? Thank you, Wayne.

So I returned the niteshades and after looking in three autozones I finally found some blue VHT caliper paint. Basically jacked the car, took off the wheel, used brake cleaner, sanded the caliper with 320 grit, used brake cleaner again, covered surrounding areas and sprayed it down with 5 or 6 coats. I let it dry every 10 minutes and would sand it with 1000grit. I still got the other side to do heh. But was late and was going out...soo wrapped it up.

Bought so HIDs last week and came in the mail, and installed them with the greatest of ease. 1.5 hrs and lookin great.. i am SO happy with em !!



[attachment=15944:IMG_0852.jpg]

Greetings, i custom made a CAI the same way v33, supra_devil, and ricer did. Last night i got done test drove the car and everything was working as it should, then i let my friend drive my car on the highway, we were doing about 80 mph in fourth gear and all of a sudden we hear a popping noise the ESC light goes off the CEL light comes on and my friend says the pedal is not moving at all he said he pushed it all the way to the floor and the engine was not responding, so with the momentum we had left we pulled over, (btw the car was making a horrible engine noise like it was running on 4 cyl) opened the hood everything looked fine turned the car off then back on and everything was back to normal except the CEL light was on. I am going to get the code read at Auto Zone before i go to work, and post my findings but does anyone have any idea what the heck happened or what is wrong? (no i didn't drive through water to hydro lock the motor either)

Hi,

Is it possible to change the oil and filter of my 2008 Elantra SE (U.S.A. model) without any jacks?

Thanks,
David

Would a cold air intake void any warranties for 08 Hyundai Sonata???

I'm trying to find somewhere where they sell the intermediate pipe for the 02. All I see is 98-2000. I got a hole in the flex pipe and I know I can just replace the flex pipe part but thats gonna be a pain in the a**, plus the rest of the pipe would benefit to be replaced. So if anyone knows where i can get one that would be awsome!

Hi All:

I've done a search here and not found anything on this....

Anyone have any experience with the window and/or sunroof relay offered by Shark Racing? Seems really slick (all window up/down auto functions, auto close of sunroof when car is shut off, etc.)

But I'd like to know the difficulty of install or any issues that anyone has experienced when they've done it.

Any thoughts or advice are appreciated. Thanks.

New to the website, and just wanted to say if u dont have a hid kit for your sonata u need to get one

For those of youo who has HIDs in the fog lights, where did you mount your ballast? I've been looking for a place to mount them to but couldn't find any good space... Please let me know. Thanks

Right now the fog lights are DRL (see setting here).
I thought I needed something new so I will try that:

[attachment=14137:LEDDRL.JPG]

Idea from here

I got the front bumper covers here

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-07-08-HY...sspagenameZWDVW

and i really like

http://www.sharkracing.com/acecart/bin/sho...&cate=011100000

Hey,
I was just wondering if anyone has done anything to their exhausts on a 4cyl 2009 sonata, and if they have could you just help me out haha. I just want to do something so it sounds better and it isnt hidden under the bumper.

thanks!

Does anyone have any experience with this tailpipe expander?

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/kd-exhaust...pe-p-13643.aspx

http://translate.googleusercontent.com/tra...-wRZkDOk2HvlpZQ


Also see attachment

I think after all my research, and thanks to this website Im getting some new headlights.

http://upgradecar.com/mshop/m_mall_detail....mp;ps_goid=8299

Also going to have them install these along with the Angl Eye rings..

Booyaaaa!!!!

Still working on it, but it looks good. Going to get the Roadruns grill as well.

Will post some pics when all of this is completed..

Its driving me crazy..Ive seen 3 grilles, two of them are completely ugly.
Anyone have any good websites to find aftermarket grilles, or headlights?

Anything at all?????

Ive seen shark racing, and ive seen korean auto imports.

Hello,

l love my G1 Santa Fe (2003), but tuneups have to be done professionally on this one due to the extreme difficulty of reaching those last 3 spark plus (I've got the 3.5, 6 cyl). Now that I'm looking to buy another SUV again, I'm thinking about the next generation (2007), but don't want to be hindered by this awful problem. It costs over $500 to do a standard tuneup this way!!! That's crazy!! If the same problem exists in the next gen, I will unfortunately be looking to purchase another SUV that is of similar quality and safety, but easier to tune ourselves.

Anyone???

THANKS!!!

I want the M3 lip spoiler for my 2010 Hyundai Sonata Limited V6 that is ebony black, so Im just trying to find out what year M3 spoiler I should order off of ebay and is there a specific black in the certain years that I should look for? Any help what be greatful. Also is there a specific seller on ebay I should look for or a specific website to go to? Also how are some of the guys tinting/darkening the tailights while leaving the reverse light area stock?
Thanks for any help

Hi, I recently purchased a 2007 Sonata NF with aftermarket parking sensors fitted. However, since the day I purchased it the sensors have not shown any signs of life with the display not showing any information and no audio tones to be heard. There is no brand name on the display and it appears to be a professional install so there is very little wiring visible or nstructions available in order to troubleshoot the problem. Below are image of the rear of the vehicle showing the five parking sensors and an image of the display at the front of the vehicle. ( I have tried using the little on the display also)



To me the failure of the sensors indicated either no power to the display unit or no input from the sensors, so i went searching around the boot (trunk) for the control unit believing that one of the connections may have come loose. After searching for quite a while i found the unit hidden under the tool holder in the boot as shown below.


After taking the unit out of the void space a few things became apparent. Firstly, I noticed that there were only four sensor inputs (displayed below) into the control unit meaning that one sensor on the bumper is not connected at all to the system (i'm presuming the central sensor as the systems operation would not be too heavily influenced by taking it out of the loop).


I checked the fuse on the unit and it appeared to be working properly. I then attempted to follow the four cables from the unit...to the best of my knowledge the red cable would lead to the reversing light and the black cable would lead to a grounding point. However I was confused by the remaining two cables with the blue cable also leading into the rear of the vehicle following the same path as the red cable, the yellow cable however led toward the front of the vehicle. This is show below. This interested me once again as the cable leaving the display unit at the front is a much thicker black cable, however no such cable enters the control unit...only the much thinner yellow cable appears to move toward the front of the vehicle. I have not yet found a buzzer and am not sure if there is one in the vehicle.


Basically I am stuck on what could be causing the system to not work. I am tempted to follow the cables to make sure they link up where they should, particularly the red cable (that supposedly leads to the reverse light) as the location of the sonata's reversing lights (on the opening portion of the boot) make me believe that the connection to the reversing light is made around the left indicator light set before the reversing cable leads into the opening portion boot and eventually the reversing light itself. The mysterious blue wire that leads to an unknown location and the thin yellow wire that i'm assuming somehow turns into a much thicker black wire that leads to the display unit also confuse me. I have attempted to remove the felt paneling on the boots interior however I have found it to be quite difficult as there are no screws and only flat surfaced 'one way' inserts holding the the paneling to the metal frame. I have already stripped the the threading on one of these inserts trying to the remove it and am hesitant to try again without knowing the proper way to remove the paneling.

Any help on getting my system back to life or identifying the mysterious wires would be very greatly appreciated.

Which is the best / most reliable kit to buy?

Where do you buy them from?


I was thinking about just geting PIAA's for the highbeams.


Thanks for the help.


Jimmy

so i just bought new 10000k HIDs i just wanted to see what ppl thought.

remember these pics are during the day.

so i just had a post of when i bought and installed them, when tonight after i was done with work i turned on my lights on and only one works now?
i tried to redo it, see if i wired it wrong. but nothing seems bad. i checked the bulb to see if it blew out but it seems fine.

so now only one bulb work. is that normal? one of my friends were saying that i just have to turn them off and on. and that there doing that cuz their new. is that true?

I've got an '09 sonata gls in willow gray. I'm not certain what levels of tint i should get that would accent the color of the car...anyone have a suggestion? Thanks!!

my passenger side foglight HID turned purple... like not even blueish purple, just straght up purple as in barnee stuck on my foglights, does this mean the bulb is almost done? i have no idea

I am thinking of buying this grill and installing it and am wondering how hard it really is? I know you may have to make your own holes for the fxiture but has any one ever put one on and could explain it for me and how easy it is?! (PS I AM NOT A SPAMMER ADVERTISING)

This is the grill I want to get on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-07-08-Hy...081910003r32241

I've been wading through past threads and this sorta came out and wanted some thoughts. When doing oil changes is it always the normal procedure to change the gasket on the oil plug? I didn't and thus far I hadn't noticed any oil leaks. Just wondering.

Also, I thought I would pass along a couple of suggestions on how to do an easy oil change. I used a set of inexpensive metal ramps and set them in place using the garage floor which has a lip that secured them from sliding. I then placed a 2x6 in front of each tire in order to clear the lower valance as it will hang up and damage it otherwise. Then I carefully rolled it up the ramps and into the trough to secure it and set the parking brake.

The advantage of this is that this permits exactly the right clearance to get at all the parts. The oil plug is located at the end of back end of the oil pan which permits all the oil to be drained. The oil filter conveniently has an opening in the plastic shroud which permits an opening for the the oil filter wrench to go up and to grab hold of the filter, loosen it and remove it down without spillage of any oil.

Since the filter is vertical I always prefill the oil filter so that when the engine starts it will only require the smallest amount of oil to begin circulating within the engine. Although the specs call for about 4.6 quarts of oil, I found that because of the slant of the ramps it must have drained a full five quarts as it wouldn't read full until all five quarts were poured in the filler tube.

I realize this is probably redundant and old information to the old hands but I thought I would pass it along anyway. And I wanted to know about the gasket. I can't recall I have in the past found it necessary to change it. Next time I am at the dealer I will pick some up. And I probably need to get their oil filter wrench as well. None of the ones I had seemed to fit very well.

Note: I just checked at the NAPA store and they stock the filter wrench and their filters are made by WIX which is to my knowledge a quality filter.

Anyway I thought it might be useful information to know how to get the car up on the ramps without damaging the underbody.

This was done on my 2008 and I am guessing the 2009 should be similar.

I am having difficulty simply replacing the headlamp bulbs in my 2006 Azera. According to the owner's manual, there are only 3 bolts that need to be removed in order to release the headlamp housing. However, after I remove/loosen the indicated 3 bolts, I still cannot get the housing to come out. It feels like there is a 4th bolt or screw that is holding it in. I can't see it or feel it to know where it is, and I certainly don't want to force it. I am removing two bolts that are on top of the housing and easily accessed by simply raising the hood. The third bolt (10mm I think) is actually loosened by removing the nut from the back. Anyone have any ideas on what I'm doing wrong or where I can find a more detailed procedure for this replacement, other than the owner's manual?

To make a long story short I want to replace a flex pipe in a 2002 Elantra Gt. I need to know if its a 1.75, 2", or 2.25" flexpipe. I live in a rural area and I have a 20 minute drive to a mechanics shop. The mechanics shop has a 1.75 inch flex pipe in stock, but i dont want to drive all the way out there to find out it needs a 2" flex pipe.

Hi to all.

I have a damaged 2005 Tucson 2.0 CRDi and I'm having problems to get used parts directly for that car.

Now I'm wondering if I could take some of the parts from any other Hyundais.

I would need both front airbags, seatbelt pretensioners (all 4 - in the buckets and in ratchets), front control arms, an intercooler and so on.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

DB

Greetings,

I am trying to replace the power-steering belt and the drive belt (alternator belt) on my Hyundai Accent 2004 GS. I was able to take off the power steering belt by loosening the power-steering pump. However, I am stuck at loosening the alternator belt. According to hmaservice.com you just loosen up the 2 "special" bolts by the alternator and then lift up or push up the alternator to loosen the tension of the drive belt. I loosened the special bolts but the alternator won't budge no matter what - I am totally stuck.

[attachment=15357:alternator_bolts.jpg]

I have completely loosened the highlighted bolts, (sorry the picture shows them tightened) but I am unable to loosen the tension of the belt. Am I missing something?

Thank you for your time.

So my fav car show is coming up soon and I am limited on funds so no large upgrades for me this year Just wondering if anyone had any little mods idea's that I havn't done yet?? All suggestions are appreciated. I can't get beat by a gencoupe this year hahah!

2000 Elantra GL Valve Cover Gasket Replacement - DIY

It is my first write-up attempt, so please excuse any shortcomings. In addition, please attempt this replacement procedure to your own risk, as I provide this solely as a reference to Hyundai owners with similar models that want to take mechanical matters in their own hands. I'm not responsible in any shape or form if you have a negative or faulty outcome if performing this on your own. With the disclaimer out of the way, here's my story.

My valve cover gasket leaked for quite some time, so I finally decided to replace it. The part itself is below $ 20 (depending where you buy it), but the dealership wanted about $ 180 to replace it... I understand they have to pay the electric bills, the gas for their shuttle vans, the wear and tear on their loaner cars, the big salaries of the front office people, etc, etc, but $ 40/hr rate (if you don't have much cleaning to do, I suspect the job is rated at 4 hrs) is too steep for my back to sustain their expenses. So, I decided to DoItMyself.
In retrospect, I should have purchased a GENUINE Hyundai part, and not an aftermarket gasket. The gasket I purchased from Arizona Autohaus is much thinner, as you'll see in the pictures. Probably if it will fail; probably it will not. However, if it fails, then next time I will buy one from HyundaiOemParts.com (I guess is part of the Delray Hyundai website, if I recall right), or RockPartsAuto, or directly from the dealer - of course if their price is not "beefed" up...

I tried to explain everything thoroughly, but here's an attempt of the tools & supplies you may need:
- Valve cover gasket
- Half-moon shaped rubber seals - I wasn't aware of these, so I didn't have new ones; hmservice.com is worthless on the subject... You'll need two.
- PCV valve (if you want/need to replace it - this is a great time to do it)
- Ratchet/Wrench 3/8" drive; a short/stubby wrench is the best, as two of the TB cover bolts are difficult to remove - very limited space
- 10 mm deep socket
- 9/16" wrench for the PCV valve
- clean rags; shop paper towels; RTV Sealant - I used the dark gray one, since it is labeled expressely for valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, etc - Permatex brand; Engine degreaser or WD40 (I used engine degreaser); flat head screwdriver


Signs of a blown Valve Cover gasket:









I may have also a leaking spark plug seal, but I wasn't aware that these are replaceable; As I said hmservice.com is worthless in some areas... I may have to do some monitoring over time and see if the leak in the pics reoccurs, or was just vcgasket related:



OK...
1) My first step was to remove the center (rocker) cover; as you see or already know it has 5 bolts:


2) After removing the center cover, pull the spark plug wires and place them toward the air box. It isn;t necessary to remove them from the ignition coils. That way you don't screw anything up. if you feel like removing them completely, make sure you mark them with a color marker, so you'll know which one goes where on the ignition coils. For the spark plugs side, it is less likely you'll screw up putting them back on, as are different lengths.

3) Next step is to remove the cylinder head (valve) cover itself. It is fastened with 13 (thirtheen) 10-metric bolts:



4) You'll have to unfasten the two 10-metric bolts holding the acceleration cable in place:


5) You'll also have to remove the PCV valve and breather hoses:


6) I elected to remove now the PCV valve - 9/16 (or 14 metric I believe) wrench:


7) You'll have to remove the Timing Belt cover, as well; it is fastened via 4 bolts that are also 10-metric.


If you don't have a short/stubby wrench, you may have to improvise in order to unscrew the 2 rear side bolts:

I went a little darker then I wanted. Well see how the drive goes tonight. Assuming I dont get pulled over. *knock on wood*

I found a post on a BMW forum about camouflaging a yellow turn signal bulb on clear aftermarket taillights. This process makes it were you don't notice the bulb, but it still lights up yellow....just with 1/2 to 3/4 the intensity.

I did this to the front turn signal bulbs on my Sonata and it looks awesome!!! I would suggest this to anyone with clear lenses that don't what to those yellow bulbs.

All you do is:
1) Take the bulb out
2) Spray paint the bulb heads (not the metal connector end, of course) with silver metallic paint. I used duplicolor paint that I had laying around. Spray about 3 coats on until the yellow isn't noticable.
3) Let the paint dry
4) Reinstall the bulb

That's it. It takes less than 15 minutes to do both bulbs...and most of that time is drying time.

Here is a link to what it does for the taillights of a BMW with frosted-clear lenses. On the Sonata, the lenses aren't frosted, just clear so it is even more dramatic.
www.apexcone.com/JimPowellHomepage/TechProcedures/SilverLamps/SilverLamps.html

So hi everyone. My names Ryan and I just bought a new 09 2.4 limited and love it so far! I have about 800 miles on it now and want to know when you guys first changed your oil? I'm thinking about doing it early to get all of the wear metal out. I also wanted to know what brands of oil and wt's you guys reccomend. Do you guys take that big plastic piece off to do oil changes or just reach through the hole to get the filter out? Whats a good jacking point in the front to put it on my jackstands? What OCI's do you guys run on these 7500? or 3000? like the manual says. Do you guys use conventional oil or synthetic? I realize thats a lot of stuff to ask but any info would be helpfull, thanks!

i have a set of halo angel eyes. the passenger side of the headlight the angel went out i have only had them for about a month any info that i could troubleshoot and fix them would be great thanks

I self installed a Remote Central Lock system inside my brand new i10.
A extra motor was added inside de drivers door.

Took me about 2 hours but it's working.!
Now i have to search for the right cables to connect the blinking lighst....

Hello all. I have a 2006 sonata gls v6 and was wondering where the fuel filter is. I believe its under the rear seat is that correct? thanks for the help

Mike

this is mostly for north america and maybe UK I wanted to share something with you all

This is for the do it yourself guy’s that changed their oil by them self and want the best for their cars read on it's really interesting

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters/index.shtml
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
This is an e-Mail from someone that worked at Fram
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilter-fram1.txt

please tell us what you feel about this
these sites are old but the problem with Fram filters is still the same
I opened one and here it is same old cardboard covers

same old FRAM SCAM B/S

Anyone familiar with this? I have an ATX PC power supply and want to power my car stereo in home for testing. Pretty sure I have this right, but want to make sure before I blow anything.

Yellow 12v and red ignition/ACC from stereo going to yellow 12v rail on PSU. Ground to ground. And green from PSU to ground for PSU always on.