I self installed a Remote Central Lock system inside my brand new i10.
A extra motor was added inside de drivers door.

Took me about 2 hours but it's working.!
Now i have to search for the right cables to connect the blinking lighst....

2000 Elantra GL Valve Cover Gasket Replacement - DIY

It is my first write-up attempt, so please excuse any shortcomings. In addition, please attempt this replacement procedure to your own risk, as I provide this solely as a reference to Hyundai owners with similar models that want to take mechanical matters in their own hands. I'm not responsible in any shape or form if you have a negative or faulty outcome if performing this on your own. With the disclaimer out of the way, here's my story.

My valve cover gasket leaked for quite some time, so I finally decided to replace it. The part itself is below $ 20 (depending where you buy it), but the dealership wanted about $ 180 to replace it... I understand they have to pay the electric bills, the gas for their shuttle vans, the wear and tear on their loaner cars, the big salaries of the front office people, etc, etc, but $ 40/hr rate (if you don't have much cleaning to do, I suspect the job is rated at 4 hrs) is too steep for my back to sustain their expenses. So, I decided to DoItMyself.
In retrospect, I should have purchased a GENUINE Hyundai part, and not an aftermarket gasket. The gasket I purchased from Arizona Autohaus is much thinner, as you'll see in the pictures. Probably if it will fail; probably it will not. However, if it fails, then next time I will buy one from HyundaiOemParts.com (I guess is part of the Delray Hyundai website, if I recall right), or RockPartsAuto, or directly from the dealer - of course if their price is not "beefed" up...

I tried to explain everything thoroughly, but here's an attempt of the tools & supplies you may need:
- Valve cover gasket
- Half-moon shaped rubber seals - I wasn't aware of these, so I didn't have new ones; hmservice.com is worthless on the subject... You'll need two.
- PCV valve (if you want/need to replace it - this is a great time to do it)
- Ratchet/Wrench 3/8" drive; a short/stubby wrench is the best, as two of the TB cover bolts are difficult to remove - very limited space
- 10 mm deep socket
- 9/16" wrench for the PCV valve
- clean rags; shop paper towels; RTV Sealant - I used the dark gray one, since it is labeled expressely for valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, etc - Permatex brand; Engine degreaser or WD40 (I used engine degreaser); flat head screwdriver


Signs of a blown Valve Cover gasket:









I may have also a leaking spark plug seal, but I wasn't aware that these are replaceable; As I said hmservice.com is worthless in some areas... I may have to do some monitoring over time and see if the leak in the pics reoccurs, or was just vcgasket related:



OK...
1) My first step was to remove the center (rocker) cover; as you see or already know it has 5 bolts:


2) After removing the center cover, pull the spark plug wires and place them toward the air box. It isn;t necessary to remove them from the ignition coils. That way you don't screw anything up. if you feel like removing them completely, make sure you mark them with a color marker, so you'll know which one goes where on the ignition coils. For the spark plugs side, it is less likely you'll screw up putting them back on, as are different lengths.

3) Next step is to remove the cylinder head (valve) cover itself. It is fastened with 13 (thirtheen) 10-metric bolts:



4) You'll have to unfasten the two 10-metric bolts holding the acceleration cable in place:


5) You'll also have to remove the PCV valve and breather hoses:


6) I elected to remove now the PCV valve - 9/16 (or 14 metric I believe) wrench:


7) You'll have to remove the Timing Belt cover, as well; it is fastened via 4 bolts that are also 10-metric.


If you don't have a short/stubby wrench, you may have to improvise in order to unscrew the 2 rear side bolts:

Hello all. I have a 2006 sonata gls v6 and was wondering where the fuel filter is. I believe its under the rear seat is that correct? thanks for the help

Mike

Which is the best / most reliable kit to buy?

Where do you buy them from?


I was thinking about just geting PIAA's for the highbeams.


Thanks for the help.


Jimmy

this is mostly for north america and maybe UK I wanted to share something with you all

This is for the do it yourself guy’s that changed their oil by them self and want the best for their cars read on it's really interesting

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters/index.shtml
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
This is an e-Mail from someone that worked at Fram
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilter-fram1.txt

please tell us what you feel about this
these sites are old but the problem with Fram filters is still the same
I opened one and here it is same old cardboard covers

same old FRAM SCAM B/S

Anyone familiar with this? I have an ATX PC power supply and want to power my car stereo in home for testing. Pretty sure I have this right, but want to make sure before I blow anything.

Yellow 12v and red ignition/ACC from stereo going to yellow 12v rail on PSU. Ground to ground. And green from PSU to ground for PSU always on.

Where can i find 2009 Hyundai Sonata HID Foglights for sale?

I saw these on KAI: http://www.koreanautoimports.com/store/pro...roducts_id=2238
but they are not HID.

Does anyone know where to buy a high intensity low beam replacement bulb
for a 2009 Sonata?
It seems the H11b only comes in the STD OEM version that is anemic at
best!
H11 does not = H11b
Thanks,
MOF

How much does the 3.3L take? I am confused on this? Saw somewhere 3 gallons.......

See original thread here: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index.php?sh...c=37636&hl= - bought and installed the ddmtunning HID kit which several members have been using without a problem. It has been about 2.5 months since my install and, all of a sudden, today, my headlights don't turn on (no clicking sound either when rotating the light knob).

I checked the fuse and yes, it was blown. I replaced it, started the car, turned on the headlights and within 0.5 seconds the lights shut down, I hear a quick "click," and fuse is blown again. Of course this would happen this evening when I'm set to drive and meet a friend at night who just arrived in town. So I frantically remove the kit and install original bulbs, put in a new fuse, and have no problems.

So, is the HID ballast faulty? The lights did turn on before blowing the fuse again, and have been working fine since the install. Any ideas? Thanks!

hello y'all

i have a question about an air filter

if i want to put an air filter(K&N) in my car, should i put an intake? because one of my friends told me if i want to put an air filter in my car, i need to put

an intake in before putting the air filter in.

im confussing what i have to do...

thanks!

just installed my h7 6000k lowbeam and 881 6000k foglights. will upload some pics tommorow asap

Hey all
I am new to this forum but not to forum life, wanted to introduce myself
I just got a 09 v6 SE

went from a heavily modded maxima to a stock sonata so i am starting slowly into the modding of this new car
i want to ask if anyone has the FSTB for the car and if they put it on the V6 motor
Korean Auto Imports has a FSTB and they claim it will fit on the V6
thoughts?

Korean Auto Imports Front Strut Tower Brace

Howdy folks (just cause I live in San Diego doesn't mean I can't use a friendly backwoods greeting does it? :-)

My first post here - where it belongs, I don't know for sure, please excuse me if it shouldn't have gone here in the DIY - Seems I could have put it in more than one forum, but I think this is general enough for here. I've never used help-forums before, but I think I'll be from now on!
Very cool forum here, my compliments to you all. I found you trying to find info to help me on my topic addressed below.

I bought a used 2006 Azera 2 years ago - my first Hyundai, and overall I've been very happy with my purchase.
I have no idea why I didn't have much respect for Hyundai's - mostly ignorance I'm sure, since I'd been a multiple Toyota owner for 20+ years, and rather pleased with them .... but since my Azera purchase, I have a great deal of respect for them, and for the money, feel they are perhaps one of the better, if not the best purchases you can make. Not that Hyundai's are perfect, as if anything is ... things do go wrong! More for some folks than others.

Enough with my Newbie Intro .... this post does have a purpose. And please forgive my long-windedness in advance, I'm always afraid I'm not clear enough so I usually overstate my case!
============ ============== ============= =============


I left my key in the car with the radio on while listening to it (& falling asleep!) ... and drained the battery ... again ... not the first time!

Preparing to charge it, I thought I'd do it right this time, & use the recondition mode of my charger.
So I pulled it out of the car, but the top didn't cooperate in coming off - after prying it off, I was wondering if I should have, as it seemed that maybe the cover was sealed?

After topping off the cells w/ distilled water and putting the cover back on, it is very loose, and the pins don't really secure it.
So, my questions:
- Is the best way to keep the lid on tight an adhesive, like the ones in my picture?
- .... if so, Which one? A more permanent adhesive such as one of the Goops, or the Non-hardening permatex?

I was concerned that fumes from them as they set up could adversely affect the battery electrolyte or plates or ... ?

The battery is the original, its over 3 years old, so this will probably be the last time I have reason to take the cover off (tho I hate to say "never" or "last time"!)

(Another question might be, "Should I have even pried off the top in the first place? Ha,ha!!")


Thanks for your patience reading this, and MANY THANKS for any helpful advice you might give.
Also, I hope this will help some other foolish soul.


By the way, that Marine Goop is the most incredible stuff .... I've made some great under-the-hood emergency repairs with it on an older 1979 Celica I used to own that saved me BUNDLE$ of $$$ !!

There’s’ a lot of mis-information on this "Trust" subject that has lingered for many years. What’s interesting is the mis-information campaign started from the very people that are now Amsoil competitors.

But back to the question.

Yes, of course.

Did you ever stop to think what might have been used in the engines of that last airplane ride you took?

After world II synthetics slowly became the major lubricant base in most of the US military planes and have since became very widely used in tanks and other equipment. Some of my experiences in the late 60s were with equipment using synthetics and they seldom got serviced other than for topping off fluids and greasing track rollers, sliders etc.

While the extreme conditions most military equipment sees are seldom seen by the average highway driver those fluids do allow extended engine, tranny & differential drains, which aside from the added protection the extended drain issue is part of the reason the military uses them.

Imagine you’re in a hot zone and a service comes due. Do you wave a white flag, take a time out, smoke em' if ya' got em' & service your vehicle?

Then the question comes up, "How can paying twice the money for a synthetic save me money"?

The short and sweet answer is you can in most cases double if not triple your service periods with confidence. That alone did the trick especially when you factor in labor.

Ok, I do my own service. Now how does it save me money? If my math is correct I’m breaking even, right?

Nope.

First off just knowing you are doing the best preventative maintenance possible with a superior product gives one comfort if you’re sincere about doing proper maintenance.

You can usually save a buck by increasing fuel efficiency 2-5%. Some say 8% but that’s extreme even if you were running sludge. 8% might be possible for an extremely short trip type driver in very cold weather. My personal experience driving on the Interstate is about 2%. I will also add driving styles make a difference. If you race from light to light the odds are you'll not see much if anything in fuel savings but you're still ahead if you think about it!

General maintenance will be lower by keeping lifter, valve trains, rings etc. in better condition by simply keeping sludge down from the higher detergent base in a good synthetic.

Engine gasket & seal life will typically last longer. This has always been an issue when running cheaper oils for years and switching to a synthetic. The synthetic cleans out the crap and then the seals &/or gaskets leak because the crap is gone. It's not the synthetics fault!! It's the maintenance procedures followed that's at fault!!

I've even had people tell me they switched back to their old oil and the leaks slowed. Sure, think about it. Once you put a cheap oil back in, the deposits that are still lingering will float around and replug the leak if it's not severe.

If you have a severe oil seal leak the odds are you would have had to eventually fix it anyway. The synthetic's high detergent base simply found it for you.

Some say, “I have no sludge in my engine”. While it may appear so only removing an oil pan or valve cover will make that statement 100% certain. In my work I’ve found crap inside an engine that I didn’t expect to find.

But why risk getting sludge? Either change your oil all the time or step up to the plate, use the good stuff, help the environment if you give a darn about your future and your children's future in any way and guess what? Life will still go on and it won't cost you extra!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You'll still have money for CDs, beer and all that other stuff that does nothing for you anyway.

The real value of using a high grade synthetic is the ability to give your equipment the best chance for the longest life possible.

Then the question will come up something like, “But I trade cars every 5 years or I only put on 100K miles and it’s gone.

OK,

Users of a high grade synthetic realize they are lowering their impact on the environment, reducing our dependency on foreign oil plus having lower down time and maintenance issues.

When you really think about it, using synthetics simply makes sense. In the long run not only will it not cost you extra or just break even, it will actually cost less regardless how long you keep your car.

I trade cars, for the most part, every 2-3 years & the last one I traded only had 20,000 miles on it but I don't care. When any of my vehicles has 1,500-2,000 miles on it seldom have I not switched to a synthetic oil and filter. I actually have to do other little things like checking fluid levels every month just to give me something to do! What a shame.

There’s also the discussion of what’s the difference between conventional oil, a group III oil and a group IV oil. The common answer is with a group IV oil you go a year or 12-15K miles between oil changes. Well, ya’ but in reality it’s much deeper than that. However, the answer is basically correct if all you’re interested in is a benefit. But that’s only one benefit & I've touched on others above.

Conventional oils most are familiar with. We see them all time including on grocery store shelves. They are, in the industry, “USUALLY” referred to as a group II oil. These are your 3-5,000 miles oils that most quick lubes also use.

Group III oil sits between a conventional AKA group II and group IV oil when it comes to the benefit. Group III will generally give you the 5-7,500 mile service interval.

Group IV will normally give you the annual or 12-15,000 mile service interval.

Some group IV oils will also give up to 35,000 mile service levels. Unfortunately I see this being marketed to the wrong people. This oil I’ll only sell to people that live in their car, like a sale person for example or someone that has extreme cold start issues like 30-40 below F.

I am using our Amsoil SSO 0W-30 in one of my vehicles now to see how it goes. So far I like what I'm seeing.

Then there is the group V, which few have a clue about & today I don’t have time to get into. But I’ll say that some 35K mile oils are a mixture of Group IV and V bases.

Then the question comes up about trusting my oil filter for 12K miles. If you’re using those cheap filters I can understand your concern. However, for the most part any filter can withstand being saturated in oil for a year. Now, if you think a filter will plug in 12,000 miles, you’ve got more problems than most.

In my work I’ve seen small automotive filters cut open after 20 and even 30 K miles. Not a problem but again the engine had proper maintenance from the beginning.

Regardless of the above there are only 2 filters on the market I’ll use in high mileage periods. They are both synthetic based. The Amsoil EAO and The Mobil 1.

I’ve had questions recently about some of the other extended filters on the market. All I can say is I do have 4 units testing them. When I have more data I’ll comment.

Then I get questions about warranty and extended drains. This is a legitimate concern and one the inexperienced get all screwed up.

Use the Amsoil EOA filter, when available with Amsoil’s oil, in an engine that was in good condition, Amsoil will put their neck on the line when it comes to extended drains while under warranty. The only issue is proper application, which is where some get it screwed up. I also suggest to those with a fair amount of miles to do one internal clean with our engine flush. It only takes 15-20 minutes and is simple to do.

Time permitting I’ll add to this but my schedule for the next few days is pretty tight. Answering questions until Jan. will be very limited.

These’s more info on my blog including some fun stuff, that I’ll be updating as time permits.

How would I be able to install Neon or Led Lights without plugging them into the cigarette lighter. What would be the best way to install them if i don't need to use the cigarette lighter.

Well it all sounded like a good idea at the time, we have a 2004 Santa Fe 2.7lt 6cyl done thereabouts of 120,000 km due for its major service.
So being ex mechanic I decided to do it all. Spark plugs were fun.NOT no real drama's with the serpentine or timing belts just awkward, changed the fuel filter (wonderful spot for it inside the tank) put it all back together & I can't get the thing to start! very embarrasing, pulled it out again seeing what I had done wrong....can't see anything. Pump runs when ign turned on then stops as it's supposed to, getting fuel delivery from pump, reset fuel cut out switch, now I have the check engine light on. Does any one know a) where the ECU lives & secondly can the error/fault codes be accessed without the dealerships diagnostic tools? when I was on tools you used to be able to pull fault codes with a test light but that was over 10 years ago. Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks.Chris

Just to catch everyone up to speed about my car (I've noticed several new people around lately, and that's great - nice car and welcome to the forum!):

I've got over 41,000 miles (probably over 42,000 after the trips I'm making today), and I installed Silverstar headlamps some time back (March 25), so that was probably about maybe 20,000 miles ago, if even that.

Yesterday after I got home from driving in torrential rain, I noticed that the driver's side (left for us Americans) headlight wasn't on (yeah, I put them on in the rain just like a good little boy should), so first thing I did was pop the hood and take a look, being careful not to touch the actual bulb or allow it to get wet.

So I tried making sure that the wires were solidly connected first, and that didn't do it. Then I got out the old headlamp bulbs to see if the wiring was still good (they were functioning fine when I replaced them - just wanted to upgrade to the Silverstars because of whiter, brighter light). Worked fine!

So, I didn't want to be driving around with mismatched lights, so I went to the right side, and wouldn't you know it - when I was checking the wiring over there, the other Silverstar burned out!!
Needless to say I wasn't very happy about it, especially not after the clip on the back of the bulb decided to be a really stubborn PITA.

So I swapped out the bulbs, have the stockers back in there now, and I dunno if I should even think about getting the Silverstars again - I mean, who wants to replace headlights every 20,000 miles? If these stock headlights burn out quickly, then I retract any remarks disparaging the Silverstars that I might've made above (or in the topic title) and will take the car to the dealer to check for shorts or excessive current draw. Quite frustrating, though.

Oh yeah, and wdlp - didn't mean to **** about my car, but technically I guess you could say that I wasn't - I was bitching about some "pimping" that I'd done in the past that didn't work out so great, so I had to "umpimp" it with the stock lights.

Overall I'm VERY happy with my car and am really glad that I bought it, and am just waiting for the right moment to get rid of my wife's gas-guzzling Yukon and get a Sonata for her. But if you're thinking about Silverstars for your Sonata, be forewarned - it didn't work out so wonderfully for me.

what tools do i need to do a bake job on a 2006 sonata for the front bakes and rotors

I have been looking for touch up paint to fix a small scratch in my car. I tried Autozone and Advanced Auto to match the color, but neither matched the exact code. The code on the VIN plate is A1. Is there a good place to find the paint or maybe it matches another manufacturers color that i can buy instead? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello Everyone,

I originally posted some of this in the Santa Fe forum however it really applies to all of us Hyundai owners. Maybe we can help each other out in listing what aftermarket suppliers you may know of.

Are we really stuck with Korean Auto Imports as our only real source for aftermarket parts? I havent had any problems with them, but it seems that they have a corner on the Hyundai market and compared to parts for other brands that are more available, their prices and shipping are quite steep. Rarely do you see any worthwhile specials or discounts.

So, here are a few places I have found and some of you may be aware of, but their product range is limited. If you have a hook or know of another source for Hyundai stuff, please reply and add to the list. There really isnt a place on the forum for supplier links so I thought I'd give this a try.

Here are a few that I know of, please add any you know of:

[SIZE=7]I WILL UPDATE THIS LIST AS OTHERS POST!

http://hyundai.dealerfit.com
http://hyundaiaccessorystore.com
https://www.hyundai-accessories.com
http://www.sharkracing.com
http://www.kspec.com
http://www.kdmstuff.com
http://www.koreanautoimports.com
www.hyundaicanada.com/
www.fasthyundai.com
www.hyundaiperformanceautoparts.com
www.evofusionusa.com/TeamSR/store.html
www.kfxperformance.ca
www.andysautosport.com
www.dreamka4u.com





Hope this helps some, and others have something to add.

This post can be found in the Santa Fe 2007+ and the the General Forums, General Hyundai Non-Model Specific Disussion forum.

Enjoy!

Right now the fog lights are DRL (see setting here).
I thought I needed something new so I will try that:

[attachment=14137:LEDDRL.JPG]

Idea from here

I got the front bumper covers here

Hello to all, and many thanks in advance!

I have an 06 Tucson with the 2.7L 6 CYL

Due to $$ being what it is today (scarce) and it's time for the 60K service, I have questions?

I plan to let the shop do the Timing belt, as I like my Tucson!

I have the flush and fill of the Coolant covered (I think) - no gotcha's, right? I can either drain and refill as stated on hyundaitechinfo.com, or flush first with a hose kit like the old days? Thoughts?

For the Automatic Tranny - to the dealer it goes - 'nuff said there!

But, what about the "Tune-up"? (such as it is these days) Just change the plugs right? Not even a Cap to change? (my last 'tune-up' was on a '64 Ford Falcon in '75...LOL)

From what I can see, it would be easy on the 4 CYL, but is tougher to do on the 6 CYL? Any tips, ideas, or plain old step-by-step instructions?

Lastly - use the stock plugs the Dealer suggests, or, go to <insert favorite parts store here> and buy a super deluxe set of lifetime no-gap titan/plat/gold/zinc/lead plugs?

Please feel free to share any thoughts?

I used to work on my car because I was young, dumb, and too poor - now I'm old, creaky, and too poor...hmm??

Hi, new here and was thinking is it possible to find parts for an auto to manual transmission conversion for a 2006 2.0NF sonata. Really appriciate it if anyone can recommend any parts or places to go for. Thanks.

Hi everyone, new to the board here. I have an RSX-S and I was doing the black housing DIY today if any of you guys are familiar with that, and my gf thought it was cool and wants to do it on her car, which is an 07 Accent 3 door. However, we haven't been able to find anything online to see if anyone's done it before. In short, what you have to do is take the headlights apart by heating up the sealant (usually epoxy) and prying them open, and then proceeding to remove the housing and spray paint it.

Here's a detailed description on what you need to do for my headlights to give you an idea of what we're trying to do with hers:

http://www.members.tripod.com/megatron01/i...les/Page338.htm

Has anyone done this before? Thanks in advance.

Hi i have got a 1999 coupe F2 and the tappets are making alot of noise when starting cold, how do i adjust the clearences,and what are the clearences?

I have a 2002 elantra. Does anyone know where I can find a good repair or service manual. Software or book?

i am looking for a intake manifold for a 2003 tiburon gtv6. if any one has one or knows where i can get one it would be much help.

hi my crank sensor packed up and i need to replace it i hope someone can tell me the easyest way of installing it. thanks

So easy your Granny could do it!

Well, maybe not, but barely a 5 on the 10 scale of difficulty. No drilling involved, just bolt to existing captive nuts in the frame and the tow loop. On vehicles with single exhaust, the appearance panel which covers driver’s side frame rail must be removed.

[attachmentid=7450]

One page of instructions, that's it! Unless you are terrified of tools, you can D.I.Y. and save some scratch on the install.

Tools needed:

14mm and 17mm ratchet sockets or open/box end wrenches of the same size. A set of ramps and floor jack are recommended but not necessary.

Receiver Hitch used:

(1) Curt Class I Receiver Hitch - Part #11315 from www.etrailer.com*, 1-1/4" Hitch Opening, 2,000lb Max Towing Capacity, 200lb Max Tongue Weight, Cost $121.88

[attachmentid=7451]

* Note: There are currently three Class I receiver hitches available at etrailer.com - Hidden Hitch Part #60816 @ $91.95, Draw Tight Part #24757 @$79.95, and the Curt described earlier.

I chose to use the most expensive Curt hitch for three reasons:

- Utilizes more secure 5-point attach vs. 3-point to eliminate potential twist and strain on the tow loop
- WeatherTite construction prevents rusting from the inside out by sealing the hitch crosstube
- Ballmount, pin and clip are included ($19.95 value)

Trailer Wiring Harness used:

(1) T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with Flat 4 Pole Trailer Connector - Part #118433 from www.etrailer.com, Circuit Protected 'Plug 'n Play' Taillight Converter (note: does not look like image on packaging), Cost $39.95*, see: Sonata Wiring Harness Install Video

*Note: The T-one Wiring Harness (4-Flat) Part #118433 is made by Cequent, the parent company for Reese, Draw-Tite, and Hidden Hitch. This harness is the same harness used for '07-'08 Elantras and can be sourced for about $10 bucks cheaper on eBay. Buy it with the hitch to get etrailers.com's free S&H for orders over $150, then submit a 'Low Price Guaranty' email request to etrailer.com customer service for 110% of the difference credited back to your PayPal or Credit Card account!

[attachmentid=7452]

Total Cost:

Total cost of hitch and harness = $161.83, (UPS Ground $17.95 waived, Free S&H for orders over $150, does not include the amount credited from taking advantage of etrailer.com's 110% Best Price Guaranty - see Cheapskate Tip above), generally positive merchant experience, although shipping took longer than stated: Day 1 received an immediate order confirmation email, Day 1 received 'in-stock and should ship within 24-48hs' confirmation email, Day 5 received 'Your order has shipped' confirmation email with tracking number and link, Day 10 order received

Hitch Install Pics:

Locate the captive nuts in the frame rails above the exhaust pipe between the muffler outlet and exhaust tip. Be certain to wear eye protection! This is what the driver side looks like...

[attachmentid=7453]

Here's the passenger side with the nut locations circled. Note: The Draw Tight and Hidden Hitch will use the rearmost nut only, the Curt also uses a second nut hidden behind the heat shield in this photo...

[attachmentid=7454]

I found it helpful to jockey the mounting ears up and around the exhaust components, then balance the hitch on a floor jack while I got the bolts and wrenches ready...

[attachmentid=7455]

You have to slip the Curt hitch under the heat shields in order to reach the forward mounting holes properly...

[attachmentid=7457]

With the hitch up in position, install the clip bolt on the tow loop (don't tighten yet) and remove the floor jack. You're gonna need room to get those frame rail bolts in...

[attachmentid=7456]

Not much room in there to swing a standard ratchet handle, expect only a few 'clicks' at a time. Stubby handle worked better but the box end was best for final tightening...

[attachmentid=7443]

After tightening the (4) frame rail bolts, fully tighten the carriage bolt on the tow loop. Be careful, if there is a fault to the Curt hitch kit it is this part, did not take much tightening to deform the clip. I will replace with a stronger clip soon...

[attachmentid=7464]

There is precious little clearance to the exhaust tip but, no matter how I shook the muffler, it didn't hit the hitch...

[attachmentid=7445]

Again, view from the rear shows clearance and fit between the valance and exhaust tip...

[attachmentid=7444]

I really hate hitches that conspicuously hang low but the Curt tucks up very nicely I thought...

[attachmentid=7446]

Tough to photo without a shadow, the black under bumper valance helps the black hitch blend in rather than stand out...

[attachmentid=7465]

Drawbar supplied will leave the ball close to the bumper cover - ok if you just set the trailer tongue on the ball, bad if you back into your tongue on a caster jack...

[attachmentid=7466]

Of course you give up some height and departure angle clearance, but not much really as the hitch hangs down only about 1-1/2"...

[attachmentid=7467]

There you have it, an easy but dirty D.I.Y. hitch install. Worse part is the non-hardening anti-corrosion goop, wear old clothes...

[attachmentid=7448]

And, yes, the trailer lights work!

[attachmentid=7449]
___________________________________

Additional Follow-up 4/18/08:

1.) The drawbar supplied in the etrailer.com kit is Curt ball mount Part #D-21. It measures 7-1/8" long from center of pin hole to center of ball hole with a 3-1/4" drop / 2-5/8" rise. After mounting the ball on the drawbar, I am not comfortable with the clearance to the bumper cover.

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I have emailed etrailer.com to see if they would exchange the Curt#D-21 drawbar for their Sportframe Drawbar Part #3594 which measures 10" long from center of pin hole to center of ball hole and provides a 4" rise from the top of the hitch receiver tube.

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I have also emailed Curt Mfg customer service explaining the situation and suggesting they consider supplying their Sonata hitch kit with a longer mall mount, specifically their ball mount Part #D-20 which measures 9-3/4" long from center of pin hole to center of ball hole and provides a 3-1/8" rise from the top of the hitch receiver tube.

I'll update if I receive a response.
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Additional Follow-up 4/24/08:

My email to etrailer.com resulted in a prompt reply and suggestion to purchase a new ball mount from them for $19.95 + S&H

My email to Curt resulted in the following prompt reply:

"Hello: I have attached a photo (below) of the installation we did here using the ball mount that comes with the hitch. Thank you and have a great day!"

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I replied with a few photos of my install showing considerably less clearance which were forwarded to the R&D dept techs. Called the following business day and was offered a new ball mount in exchange for the original, gratis.
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Additional Follow-up 4/24/08:

Rec'd new ball mount. The Curt p/n on the packing list is #D-221. It is 11-1/4" from hole-to-hole with a 3-1/8" rise. It is the only longer shank Class I ball mount Curt offers but, as the next pic shows, it's pretty long...

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I'm sure the perfect shank length ball mount exists somewhere, but I decided just to drill another pin hole in this one. After sliding the shank as far into the receiver as possible, I backed it out ever-so-slightly and marked for the new hole...

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Now I have a choice of short or long shank length positions, though I don't know why I'd ever use the long position. A bit of extra work yes, but this ball mount set at the short position offers proper clearance to the bumper cover and adds an additional 1/2" rise. Just about perfect now IMHO...

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hi there, can anyone do a write up on how to change fuel pump on a excel 93 hatch??? the square looking excel.

thanks

i dont even know where the pump is

Hello, I'm looking at buying a car for my daughter. I found an 02 accent w/the above noted codes. Trans fluid is dark but doesnt smell burnt, seems to shift ok. CEL flashes on acceleration, stays on steady at about 30 mph. Idles ok. 94000 mi. Also, is the 100k warranty transferrable?
thanx,
Rick

Seems to be a fair amount of request. Here's a seperate post that hopefully will help some.

http://www.hmaservice.com/

Sorry, figured it out.

Check your Fram oil filters before you leave the store. I was changing oil on my 2002 Sonata and bought a mislabeled PH9688. Two different oil filters with the same part number. The PH 9688 with the black top fits the Sonata. Fram has not responded to my e-mails. [attachment=11649:DSCN2512.JPG]

Hi,

I need to lift the front end of my 2003 Santa Fe and put it on floor stands. I have a hydraulic floor jack I've been using to lift my other car, putting the jack under the subframe.
So my question is can I lift the SF same way, using the subframe as the lifting point?

Thanks!

I had my '08 Santa Fe Limited in for a recall recently. The service manager was personally handling the paper work and when he opened the car door to get the mileage he noticed a sticker I placed on the doors edge. The sticker is a reminder to me to change my oil at certain intervals. On my sticker label I made a note to use Mobil 1 5W-30, change @ 8500 miles. This was what he saw and made a comment to me to NOT use synthetic oil in the engine.

We went back inside and the manager along with another ticket writer started to give me a dissertation on the use of syn oil in Hyundai's. They explained with a diagram a close up sketch of a cylinder wall in a magnified view of the wall. Apparently, (according to them) the way Hyundai drills and polishes the cylinder wall determines the type of oils that they recommend. Synthetic oils do not adhere microscopically to the 'grain' of the metal as efficiently as standard dino oil, therefore they told me officially.... Hyundai does NOT recommend the use of synthetics in the engine of my '08 Sante Fe.

O.K., this is still over my head even though I'm pretty well mechanically inclined but these two guys ended by telling me that using syn would would not void the warranty. Their use was just NOT recommended and may cause excessive tapping noise on start up.

Now, I use Mobil 1 faithfully in BOTH of my Hyundai's, (Sante Fe and '06 Elantra) and in my Chevy Astro van. Yes, I do notice a 'valve' tapping on start up in both Hyundai cars.

Comments are well appreciated.

Hi

I hav a 2004 Hyundai Coupe 1.6 S and i love it to bits. But i do shift work and drivers at night dazzle me from behind, is it possible to retro fit an self dimming mirror?has anyone done this?

Thanks

i got bored, and my hands were getting restless, so i built a video camera mount that sits on the back deck of my Accent GS.. first attempt was out of an old scrap piece of wood flooring... made this one out of aluminum U-bar... idle hands.......

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Hi,

I'm looking for a manual transmision for my Hyundai Trajet. I tried in vain to search for 2nd-hand manual transmission for Trajet, but to no avail.

I would appreciate if anyone could provide some information on getting a set of manual transmission for my Hyundai Trajet (any model, as long as it fits onto the vehicle).

Thank you!

Hello everybody
I have a 2001 sonata 2.5 V6 with 4 wheel disc brakes w/o ABS. Could anybody tell me the procedure to remove and replace the rear wheel bearings

Thanks ever so much for any help.

mikro

I recently replaced the serpentine belt on my 03 v6 tiburon. Come to find out the AC clutch is bent and that pulley will no longer power the belt. Instead of replacing that I was thinking of just getting a smaller belt and not connect it to the AC. Does anyone know if there is a belt that will fit this? If not how hard is it to replace the AC clutch? I don't care if the AC doesn't work, as the long as the clutch does and the pulley works my belt so my car will actually run.

how do you change the high mount brake lamp on a 2006 sonata

how do you change the high mount brake lamp 2006 sonata

Hi every body

(excuse me for my english, i'm from quebec )

I want to change the fuel filter on my gsi sport hyundai accent 1999, but I didn't find it.

Couldt you please tell me where it is?

Thanks

Vokial

hi all
This is my first post in this forum. i have a 2006 Hyundai Santro Exec. im from pakistan. it originally does not have a tachometer. but i want to attach one in it. i have seen few pics of the same panel with tachometer in it, in an indian version of the car, which i think is hyundai santro xing. i have attached the pic of the panel with tachometer. is it possible for me to attach that in my car, if i can find one and if yes then how. any tutorial? hope to hear from you guys soon thanks.

camshaft position sensor engine light came on, after replacing the timing belt, it wouldnt start the first time, because the timing was off, then redid it and lined all up and started but runs very rough, engine light came on and scanned it and came back cam position sensor, ill post the code later, ANY HELP PLEASE [size="4"][/size]